Full text of "The Keystone, vol. 26, no. 10 (October 1905)"

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Bracelets
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1905

/ October,

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Art Treasure for You

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This large ‘“‘Father Time and Lady Elgin” calendar, *yecause of its
matchless beauty and superiority of execution, compels tkje admiration
of the most discriminating lovers of art. Hanging on the\walls of any
home, it will share attention with the most highly prized masterpiece of
painting. It is entirely free from all advertising matter. Size 8x15 inches.

The calendar is the work of Maud Humphrey, the well-known artist.
It illustrates in four beautiful pictures the popular periods of English fash-
ion—the fifteenth, seventeenth, nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Its
strikingly delicate color effects, combined with remarkable originality of
conception, places it among the treasures of art. It is instructive and

valuable from a historical point of view as well. Send for sample calendar.
.

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ELGIN NATIONAL WATCH CO., General Offices, 131 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO.

a Sear

Size of Mirror and Brush Illustrated % Actual Size. File and Other Articles. Actual Size.

SCARF PINS. #654.—Rose Finish, Brilliant
Set. 647, 649, 650, 653:—Can be furnished in
Rose or Green Finish and Assorted Stone
Settings, Sapphire, Garnet, Amethyst and
Topaz.

COLLAR SUPPORTERS. 3554.—Assorted ;

Stones, Pearls, Amethyst. Turquoise, Chry-
sophrose and Garnet. 3546.—-Roman Finish,

SCARF PINS. 661.—Rose & Green Finish.
663.—Rose & Green Finish. 655.—Rose Bril-
liant. 651, 652 —Rose or Green Finish and
Assorted Svones, Sapphire, Garnet, Amethyst
and Popaz.

CO”.1 AR SUPPORTERS. 3547.—Assorted
Sto. 2s, Pearis, Amethyst, Turquoise, Chry-
sophrose and Topaz.

COLLARS. 202.—Rose or Green Finish.
203.—Rose or Green Finish. 204.—-Rose or
sacen, is oe furnish on Amethyst,

phire, Lopaz, Turquoise, Chrysophrose
Aqua Marine and Rose, Stone Settings, :

BRACELETS. 469.—Rose & Green Finish
470 —Rose & Green Finish. Can furnish in
Seip Topaz, Aqua Marine and Sapphire

1585

Look for These

whenever you want

GOODS OF GOOD QUALITY

They stand for our guar-
antee and are your protec?
tion from imitations.

We are continually add-
ing new goods to our lines,
and the Jeweler who does
not have f&B goods in his
stock this season is going
to lose business.

The goods illustrated
are all new. “fhe Collar
Supporters are made in
different shapes and with
assorted stones, and the
Collarettes are of different
finishes and a variety of
stones set, as are also the

yw -au dh

Bracelets.

Chains, Lockets, Brooch¢j
Scarf Pins, Hat Pins,
Waist Pins, Bracelets,
Link Buttons, Crosses,
Earrings, Necklaces and
Hair Chain Mountings,
Sterling Silver Toilet and
Manicure Sets and Useful
Novelties.

See our Catalogue for other goods.

THEODORE W. FOSTER & BROTHER COMPANY

MANUFACTURING JEWELERS AND SILVERSMITHS
100 Richmond Street, Providence, R. {.

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Se — -

= — — — —

American and Swiss

MAINSPRINGS

are so well known by the
expert and most critical
watchmakers that further
claims are unnecessary.

—————— ——————————

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15 eile STE a ul am
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Z; =i INL)
“ ——— |
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FREE OF CHARGE #2
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This Handsome Cabinet fas
C—O
with three drawers and a series of twenty-six handsomely SS ae}
decorated tin boxes, marked with sizes, grades, class, num- ——— ;—
Send for a list of ber, width and strength by Demnison’s gage. These boxes eg ara ==

VEE ee —— eee — ———
~ : are fitted tothe Cabinet, and are specially intended for the = ENERO GY | Nr
Styles, Sizes, Width loose mainsprings which naturally accumulate in every ao

ds h b watchmaker’: stock. We will send one of these Cabinets | : . j
and Strengt Y free with the first order for one gross of ee Sf Ameri- Size, 15 inches long, 10 inches high and 934 inches deep

Dennison’s Gage can or Swiss Mainsprings. Capacity, 10 Gross COGEP> American and Swiss Springs

—

MAIL ORDERS we care for promptly, and get them to you according to order

Orders filled from any catalogue

L. H. KELLER & Co. ,

IMPORTERS, MANUFACTURERS AND JOBBERS

Fine Watch api toe co hig Supplies 6 4. Nassau St., New Yo r kK

W atches

Non-Retailing 7
means—that we protect the Retail Trade by
Positively Refusing to sell any goods other than
at Wholesale. Any Jobber who retails becomes
a competitor of the Retailer.

Are you buying your Watches from a
competitor of yourself? We are not your
competitor, and we solicit your trade.

The Non=-Retailing Company

Jobbers in

Watches and Chains
Watches Lancaster, Pa. Watches

==NICH.

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SWISS PATTERN FILES
“GOOD WORK REQUIRES GOOD TOOLS”

NICHOLSON FILE COMPANY

| / PROVIDENGE, R. |.

1588

IN AR TAMIR Go IR 2
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We handle tools and materials in such large quantities that we can give you the best goods at the lowest prices. We are among
the largest dealers in this class of goods in the United States, and we pass the benefit of our large-quantity-buying on to you.

And another thing—we fill your orders promptly and as you give them. Our stock is large and complete and our facilities
ample. We have what you want and we lose no time in getting it to you.

Try us with a tria’ order and we’ll convince you.

BALANCE STAFFS

ALL PRICES PER DOZEN (senuine B. & J. Ss. Eagle

lactory grand Brand
Elgin, RBs ON, a a ais ow ts) fet a Os 6. Oe st. glen, MB EZOD #1.00 % .75
Elgin, Rie PAROS Aa SOM ORE GS ho ak a bo es 4 ow 0 ee we ee Relea Se s\, ei ae 1.00 Sat
Elgin, SS a ie Cons ON er ae ae ae ae Pe a ee 4.00 2.50 eh
Waltham, all sizes, 7 jewel. — Pe ae ee eee ae Seno) oe Set ee ts as 2.00 1.00 By {33
na SP ceie Ree SOEOIN 8 gg ce fe me wee wie) Bine aw el ee aw), MU 1.00
TIER SITOS, 1s SOWELL 6s ct tee wee eee Ci yg, i 4.00 2.50
TOM RU O WUE, Ss ww. Sg eerie) ew. = a wes ne 6 eS we a ew 5.00 2.50 ae
SIE ON MER e a clle ow ie oe oe ww 6 oe oO a eR ee Be 2.00 1.00 45
OR. 2 eG BUR a 6 bo ce 5 8 Se Fup Oe oe + eee a 4.00 2,50 sae

BALANCE JEWELS

ALL PRICES PER DOZEN Genuine E. &J.S. Eagle
Factory Brand Brand
Elgin, rn. SOW CR nd Se 6 oe + 6 wee ie 4 ee + eee ee $2.00 $1.50 % .75
tte er SOWOL fs se ew tee we ee eA eee 2.10 1,50 75
WU ICIIE TET IMEI IOWOR (6 et ee Ce we ww ee ee 2.05 1.50 ee ~
Illinois, i CO WOE oa sb ss ab oe ee oS Os wis ia eee 1,50 By £53
Hampden, all sizes, 7 to 21 PO Se ed x > ee ew oe Se we toe eat eae 1.50 15

ALL ABOVE PRICES SUBJECT TO 6¢ DISCOUNT FOR CASH

Genuine Factory Material. We keep the different makes and grades of material for American Watches in large

variety. We sell these materials at lowest factory prices. All orders are carefully selected and promptly returned to you.

Our New Catalogue will be extraordinarily handsome and something new in catalogue making. It will be in our hands
for October delivery, the printer says. If you have not sent us your name for a copy, do it now—if you are in our territory—and we
will send the book free of charge.

E. & J. SWIGART, Cincinnati, Ohio
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1589

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FULL MEASURE’

wl A aid a LITTLE MORE |
ne

GETTING AN EXTRA PROFIT

The miner has to dig the ore out of the ground and put it through certain processes in order to get the
gold.

If the ore contains a little silver and a little copper it means an addition: il clear profit for the miner, with
practically no extra labor or expense. :

A wise jeweler conducts his business on the same principle. He sells his goods and runs a repair shop in
order to get a profit out of it—the gold.

If the jewelry business and the repair department accumulate a little old gold and silver and bench filings
and sweepings, it means an additional clear profit with practically no extra labor or expense.

Make it a rule to gather together and ship your scraps and filings at regular intervals. It rids your store
of old junk and puts an extra profit into your cash drawer—a rule that works both ways.

Our old, tried and true plan is: You send your consignment, we send you a check immediately. If
the amount of the check is not large enough, you return it and we return your shipment and pay the freight.

We are paying 50 cents per ounce for old silver.

GOLDSMITH BROS.

Sweep Smelters, Refiners and Assayers

igh ber oa CHICAGO, ILL.

ta Dip

An “ Sa ED 7

4 BP Sto, =
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Lee ae yore

BETSY ROSS
TERRITORY

The Betsy Ross Memorial As-
sociation has 957,922 members.
Here is where they live. Most
of them will buy the Betsy Koss
Watch if you let them know
about it. Isn’t this a substan-
tial nucleus of trade?

[ID you ever see a prettier headpiece to an
advertisement than these new Jas. Boss
20-year cases we are using for the Betsy Ross
Complete O-size Watch? They are entirely worthy

of this interesting association, and the movement 1s |

Six New Enzland States entirely worthy of these admirable examples of case-

Massachusetts, 60,570 | New Hampshire, 3,480 making—a combination that has created a pheno-
Rhode Island, 17,070 Maine, 2,520 oe ,
Connecticut, 16.350 Vermont, 1,290 menal demand. Jhere is no better seller than the

101,280

Four Middle States

Pennsylvania, 295,080 New Jersey, 97,110
New York, 210,780 Delaware, 4,830

607,800

Eleven Southern States

Maryland, 3,040 North Carolina, 600
West Virginia, 1,620 Texas, 570
Virginia, 1,560 Seuth Carolina, 300
Louisiana, 1,500 Alabama, 270
Florida, 750 Mississippi, go
Georgia 690

30,990

Twenty-four Western States

COMPLETE W A i @
O-SIZE i i

Ohio, 28,800 Oregon, 1,890

lliinois, 19,590 Kansas, 1,740

Indiana, y,630 Utah, 1,170

Missouri, 8,190 Tennessee, 1,080

California, 7.800 Washington, 930

Wisconsin, 6,960 North Dakota, 870 , : :

Michigan, 6,060 Montana, 570 Its extrinsic worth makes the demand and the story
Kentucky, 3,300 South Dakota, 330 ? ; : , : :
Minnesota, 3,090 Arkansas, 300 of Betsy Ross colors it with enthusiasm. If vou
Iowa, 2940 Idaho, 210 ; ad ik
Nebraska, 2,760 Nevada, 180 have not ordered, you have a trade waiting: if vou
Colorado, 2,190 Wyoming, 60 — — : o! E

110,640 have ordered, you will need more this fall, and yet

Territories and Colonies ;
more as the holiday trade develops. Do not delay

New Mexico, 480 Oklahoma, 60

Hawail 330 ~=3©Ladrone Islands, 60 —_ the yressure ol » foe 7 1¢ oetti ere se) eee

Philippine Islands 210 indian Territory, 30 : 1 the factory iS getting greatel C\ Cry

ee on here Ried, 30 day. here is no other such value in O-size com-
1ZONa, O ‘i

1,380

plete watches. Order from your jobber.

District of Columbia, 8,280
U. S. Navy, 330-

8,610

Foreign Countries

We have just prepared a very interesting folder

Canada, 180 Scotland, | 30 —in colors—illustrating the Betsy Ross Watch and
France, 150 South Africa, 39 telling how and where she made the first American
aos Ss cee oe flag. We print your name on 2 ee furnish free
’ -tilidlly, ) ~# i.
Rep. of Colombia, 60 China, 30 aS Many aS you can use. Send your business card.
Cuba, 60 Costa Rica, 30

Australia 60 Mexico, 30

Nova Scotia, 30 —__——

The Keystone Watch Case Co.

chides Philadelph a Cincinnati

San Francisco

In club form, 866,220
In miscellaneous form, 91,702

Grand _ total, 957,922

Adjustable Jaw Roller Remover, No. 16

The two movable jaws are easily adjusted so they will take in any size roller
by means of the knurled screw.

Price each, $1.50

Lathe Loupe,

(PATENT APPLIED FOR)

Gee 2

A most useful article, devised by a practical watchmaker. Easily applied to any make lathe, If
great. power is required, bring into action the two lenses ; otherwise swing the small lens out of place.

tings of two different sizes are furnished with each loupe to meet all requirements. The loupe
will enable anyone to inspect the work without bending close to it as with ordinary eye-loupe,

Price, $1.25 each

For refinishing balance pivots without removing the hairspring or roller, and
protecting them while the pivots are being vrepolished.
Made for all standard sizes of American Lathes,

Price, $3.50

CLOCK HAND SET COMBINATION

Frosting or Matting Tool, No. 1 No. 16

(PATENTED) Consists of all the styles used on the
Wheels, Bridges and Plates, which at present can only be polished, may, with this tool, be given following Clock Co’s Movements:
a frosted or matted surface similar to the original finish produced in the factory, Wheels may be
placed in the lathe or otherwise held, polished witb fine emery paper and the small roll used with light ANSONIA, SETH THOMAS,
pressure for refrosting. Bridges, Plates or other large flat surfaces may be treated in the same way GILBERT, WATERBURY,
with fine emery paper, after which the large roll is to be passed forward and backward over the work NEW HAVEN, WESTERN.

with light pressure.

Price per set, $1.00

CONTENTS 50 PIECES. PRICE $1.00

_ jy i il (aa ‘i I Ha
il ag ie 1

BACK WINDER COMBINATION

No. 17

Consists of all the styles used on the
following Clock Co’s Movements:

ANSONIA, SETH THOMAS,
GILBERT, WATERBURY,
NEW HAVEN, WESTERN.

| CONTENTS 50 PIECES. PRICE $1.50

CLOW’S |
Steel Screw Solven
ii REMOVES §

SCREWS,

t
"4

HM feel

Hyun pity

Order from your Jobber.

Clow’s Steel If he is unable to supply you,
Screw Solvent if you will write us we will in-

form you who can.

is a chemical preparation
for removing steel screws
that have been broken off

i, \ : = or rusted in Watch Plates,
Jad alls HAMMEL
Jeweled Bearing ale, No. 120 Spectacle Frames. 9

It Acts Only on Steel

Above illustration represents our new line of Jeweled Scales, which we furnish in
various sizes, The bearings supporting beams are jeweled. Pans are hung in hardened It abolishes the old cus-
knife bearings. Adjusting screws on ends of beams. Exceedingly sensitive. All parts tom of punching or drilling
heavily nickel-plated. Removable pans. Finely finished hardwood boxes. Weights out screws. With this sd
finely adjusted. o : $ 8.00 preparation a screw can be
omplete with set of 20z. weights. ..... ° removed in from ten min- °
i es Ce ES RESON oe aa a 10.00 utes to one hour without AC & 49 Maiden Lane
PRICES oe a6 £6 GikE SE oie ats 12.00 taking any of your time.

(f3 “c “cc 8 sc 4“

i “ en : : | : : bleh eaioe directions with each NEW YORK

A fine seale at a moderate price Price, 50 cents

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English Case as Received As Remodoled for American S, W. Movement

WENDELL G COMPANY
WATCH CASE MAKERS, REMODELERS AND REPAIRERS

Special Cases to order in Gold and Silver, for English, Swiss and American Moyements.
Key-Wind Cases changed to Stem-Wind.
English Cases changed to fit American Movements without altering outside appearance.
Hunting Cases changed to Open-F ace.
Old Watch Cases Repaired and Renewed.
Melting old gold cases and making over into new case (using same gold) a specialty,

TWO WONDERFUL SHOPS
103-105 William Street, New York 57 Washington Street, Chicago

NEW CLAWS ON OLD DIAMOND RINGS

These cuts show the same rings with new, high elaws,
stones securely reset, and entire rings refinished like new,

These two cuts show Flat and Round Beleher Rings
as received, with claws badly worn off und too low to
permit resetting stones again,

Net Price for six new claws, resetting stone and refinishing ring like new,$ .75 to $1 25
ra os oe eight ** és oe se se os se se oy 1.00 to 2.00
We retip or put new claws on diamond Tiffany, Belcher, Tooth anderings of every description, to cost
from 75c. to $2.00, according to the condition of ring and number of claws in setting.

These two cuts show initial and cameo glove
ring, with two and four claws soldered to the setting,
which holds the sets in very securely.

Two new Claws on glovering, 50c.
Four te 4s 4s é es 7 5c.

WENDELL & COMPANY

The Special Manufacturers for ‘i =
the Retail Jewelry Trade ‘I TT
TWO WONDERFUL SHOPS

Initial glove ring withone 103-105 William St. 57 Washington St.
elaw ateach end holding set. NEW YORK CHICAGO

IS 2s

(EX

Cameo glove ring with four
claws ut corners holding set.

SAMPLE JOB AS RECEIVED

4 a es, _

‘ — Ei a } 4 y
se : \&

FANCY LINK CHAIN AS RECEIVED FOR RENEWING

> — Se
E "ps TUTE rwRRREET Nn UPEEVRRRD PTT TPeneTT TTR EPH NNT TPOHRUOrVOUPrETD*ASETUNSUTPIIPUTNSPTERPEREPRTIONDY r ’ he, , 3
(om © ° er 2 pea? 2? om 3
x T MPPNETPETERNRRRT TTT TTS (Perry TT irepreteerTst Dreprenreerneey " F,
aati a - —~ ~~ ’
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AS DELIVERED
Gold Chains Refilled, Renewed and Repaired

Oid Chains made over into new patterns, using same gold
Good Work. Low Prices. Prompt Attention

WENDELL & COMPANY

THE SPECIAL MANUFACTURERS FOR THE RETAIL JEWELRY TRADE

NEW YORK CHICAGO

103-105 William Street UL Sues. 57 Washington Street

FUL SHOPS

Stone-Setting

We carry a most complete stock of Precious and Semi-Precious Stones
for special work and replacing lost sets. \We import them direct from the
cutters in Europe, and furnish them to the trade in single stones at dozen
and gross prices.

Have your stone-setting done in our shops and save from thirty-five to
fifty per cent. °

We employ first-class setters, and turn out work very promptly.

No job too small to receive our careful attention.

Wendell & Company

Repairers and Special Manufacturers for the Retail Jewelry Trade

103-105 William Street TWO LARGE 57 Washington Street
NEW YORK FACTORIES CHICAGO

For 23 years we have been doing

Gold and Silver Plating

Sterling and Plated Ware Repairing for the: Trade

Do we do yours?
Our plating rooms are the best equipped in the country for job work.

BEFORE

WE REPLATE

WE REPAIR |

any article in the silverware line; making any metal article in gold, silver, nickel,
lew parts to match the old ones that have | bronze, brass, oxidized silver, old bronze
5 ; , ; Ze,

been melted or broken off, the same as new. statuary bronze, and all antique finishes,

Wendell & Company

Repairers and Special Manufacturers for the Retail Jewelry Trade

TWO WONDERFUL SHOPS
103-105 William Street, New York 57 Washington Street, Chicago

Great Promptness in Getting Out
Special Order Work and Repairing of all kinds

together with Good Work and Low Prices are the features that made our
business the only success of its kind in the country.

For 23 years we have made a separate and distinct business of doing
special Order Work and Repairing for the Trade.

We understand our business and there is not a Job or Special Order
for New Work that is taken into a Retail Jewelry Store (except watch work )
that we are not prepared to do in our own factories.

It is to your best interest to deal with us. By giving your customers
perfect satisfaction with theirrepairs and made-to-order work, you increase
your entire business.

Send for our Repair Price-List and Special Order Work Catalogues

Wendell & Company

The Special Manufacturers for the Retail Jewelry Trade

Two Wonderful Shops in Fire-Proof Buildings
103-105 William Street, New York 57 Washington Street, Chicago

American-Made Balance Staffs and Hole Jewels
for American Watches, in Separate Size Holes and Pivot

Cut showing set of 6 cabinets
The cabinets Qo eg Gr
are made an GAG Soman SF COLS
. — Ser ne 1020. _ — w. SREEN & CO's =fmperiatt” American Balance Staffs. — — = — = even, flat, uni- , f CER ag AER ANY, ;
wotte. | wing | sue | Gatsion {Seo | Bowe. | xing | sie | Catmior | Shoot | Hotte | kina | sie | Sete | Ste form size for «<< Al Cf Star;
a 4 “Waltham is 1364 14 __ ti 25 | Waltham “oO 19365 | 10 _ 49 Elgin fil my }_ 1906 — 9 convenience of R SET ‘
me ae fw pee | 13 1364 1S 26 ye Rss 19360 | Cs z 5 | 28 Pa iS Sonn placing one on @
altham is 1364 \ falthaim Oo 19369 | C gin 2 5 < " on:
_4_ Waltham! 18 | 13865 | 11 23 Waltham © |Moel 1900! Ree 52 Elgin a BOB NS. oe the other ree two
le Ww altham fa18 1865 EX a ist 29 | Waltham aOnn Modal 119OO)} v r 63 Elgin _ eS} BGRNS, | 10_ s m a ] ] cabinets =
_ 6 | Waltham |" 138} 1866 | 13 FF 30 _| Waltham |iewel Series| |] 4 | Elgin 6 | B8G8NS | 11 being exact size
ew altham | 18 | 1703 | 12 | 3l 2S Elgin 14 867 7 NSS.H) 1 55 | Flgin | 6 =t* x68 05. 10_ of one large cab-
_ 8 | Waltham] 18 | 1703a il 32 | Figin | 18 |BS57NSSH! 12 7 BB | Elgin | 6 | RBS0S. | Nl inet. Thev are &
9 | Waltham| 18 | 17034 | 12 [33 |_ Elgin | 18 |8574NSSH! 13 [| B7_| Elgin | O | 860 8 et. 1eY are poy
_10 | Waltham |“16_ |" 2844 | YO [34 |" Eigin | 18 |S57NSSH) 14 [| BB | Elkin | O | 869 | © compact, handy
_#€ | Waltham |" 16 2344 | 11 7 38 | ae [18 [S57 NSCH! 12 7 BO | Elgin O | 889 | 10 and readily &
_§2 | Walham|" 16 |"2844 | 12 [7 36 | Eigin 18 |B57NSLH) 13° 7 6O | Elgin | O | 1731 | O_ ed in asmaill
_ 13 | Waltham|_16 |"2844 |_i3 | 37 _|_ Elgin | 18 |RBSO7KSIM! 14 | 6F | Elgin (om BS ccs Wl eS tom placed in es fi $
_14 | Waltham|"16 | wop.b0 | 10 | 38 | Elgin | 18 |SS7NSLH| 15 [62 |Hampden| 18 | 64 | 11 case or 1n sale. 1
15 | Waltham) 16 |wop. 00 | 11 [39 | Figin | 18 "| 8570S. |_18 | _63_|Hampden| 18 64 __|_ 12 Contents of
_ 16 | Waltham | 16 | Mop. 06 | 12 40 | Figin | 18 | 85705 | 1 “4 {| 64 |Hampden| 18_ = 64 | 13 each cabinet is &
_07 | Waltham| 12° |" 8142 | 9 [46 | Elgin aces 85708 |_15 | 68 |Hampden| 18 | 64 | 14 stamped promi-
_t8 | Waltham |" 12 | 8142 | 10 [42 | Figin 63 SGINS. | 10 66 Illinois | 18 | G { 12 : a Re : Pal a
~ 9 | Waltham|"i2 | 8142 |" [43 | Elgin _ = | 861Ns. | 1 67 | Illinois [18 A SS nently in sliver
20 | Waltham] 6 | dE 10 | 44 | Elgin | 16 | S6INS. | 12 | 68 | Minos | 18 | 6 | 14 leaf.
_20 | Waltham | 6 1321Q | 11 | 48 | Elgin | 16 | SGiNS | 13 | 69_ |_Minois_ ey = OS oy a
~220) “Waltham | _8 | 18220 | 10 [46 | Elgin | 167] 8610S | it 7 70 |_ Illinois | 18 | 206 | 12 _ = ~ ; ; < s
~23 | Waltham | 6 | 13220 |_t1_|47_|_Figin_|_16_|_Se10s | 12 |_74_|_Minois |_is8_|_206 | 13 We desire to call your attention to the accompanying illustrations
24 | Waltham | _ O 19365 rs) 48 | ~ Elgin 16 $6105. | nice iP illinois 118 | 205 | 14

“Ww. “GREEN & CO., Watob Materials and Jewolere’ Suppilen, 6 Malden Lane, New York.

showing and describing the highest grade American=made Balance
Staffs and Balance-Hole Jewels in Settings. Both Staffs and Jewels
have been made on scientific principles and are interchangeable—the
staffs fitting the jewels of corresponding size and number as shown in cut
and index. The Staffs are highly polished, tem-
pered and guaranteed to be perfectly true and
correctly gaged. The Jewels are genuine Ruby
and Sapphire of the finest quality, and settings
are gaged to fit accurately. Particular attention
has been given to making the countersink in jewels
sufficiently deep to prevent the spreading of oil,
also.to have the walls of jewels as short as possible
without making them too thin, which is one of the
main faults with most American jewels in the market.

By having a supply of our American Staffs and
Jewels arranged in our cabinets, with each size
hole and pivot in a separate bottle, it. affords
greater facilities in selecting the material, and much
time and annoyance is thus avoided. This method
of keeping staffs and jewels saves time, patience and money, and com-
bines simplicity with economy. Each bottle is numbered to corre-
spond with an accurate directory and guide, placed in each cabinet,
to enable any size or style to be duplicated by simply quoting the num-
ber. The sets as described below are arranged in velvet compartments
in handsome well-made Leatherette Cabinets, with hinged cover and

SET NO. 10068, W. GREEN & CO.'S “Imperial” American Set, Balance Hole Jewels,

| {100 | Size of
,, ott r Kin ae ode Sock or Foo wae distant Rinc | Size Move! Jock or Foot piece: Kiod | Size Model Cock or Foos Hole ° = - . ys fe e ° r ; 5 -
Bhisenvie| Rint tee | aeant_| covnerro | TRS bar] Hint | ae | : a Lib =H L nickel-plated snap lock, containing evenly-made bottles with corks.
10! | waittam | 18) | New [Cock &Foot| 11 125 | waltham | 0612 | New | Cock__|_ 8 Eigia 6__| Old & New Cock & Foot! _10_
eee 102 | waittam | 13 | New |Cock&Foot| 12 | 126 | waitm | 0612 | New | Cock | 9 D | Elgin | 6 | Old & New\Cock & Foot|__11
Pe, 103 | waittas | 18 | New |Cock&Foot) 13 _'27_) waltham | 0612 | New | Cock | _10 Eigin | 0 | Old & New|Cock & Foot! 8
eee 104 | watttam | 18 | New |Cock&Foot) 14 9128 | waittam | 0612 | New Cock | 1 _ 2.) Een | 0 | Old & New/Cock & Foot) 9 _ J EW j S ST FES
ee 105 | Waltham | 18 New _|Cock& Foot} 15 |_129 | waltham | 0612 | New | Foot 8 Hsin |__0 | Old & New|Cock & Foot) 10 E A
were | 106) watthem | 18 | New |Cock&Foot| 16 130 | waltham | 0612 | New | Foot 9 | Hampden | 18 |Old & New| Cock | __
L107 | wate | 18 | Old | Foot | 11 9131 _| waltham | 0612] New | Foot | 10 | Mampder | 18 |Old & New| — Cock _|_12 _ a marl tex
B\108 | watttam | 18 | Old | Foot 12 |_132_| waltham | 06-12 | New |__ Foot uN _| Hampden | 18 _| Old & New| Cock _|_13__ Set 1000. Cabinet containing 36 bot- Set 1010. Cabinet containing 36 bot-
pogo | 109 | waltham | 18 _| _Old___|__ Foot 13 133_| Elgin | 18 |[OM& New/Coet & Foot!| ae | Hampden | 18 | Cet & New| __Cock 14 vee tles, with 1 dozen in each bottle. Potal tles with 1 dozen in each bottle, Total quan-
Rea 10) wattem | is | Or Foot __|_M4_} 1° |_Bee_|_18_|Old & New (Cock & Foot|_12_ jmomptes EO Eee eS | ee quantity, 3 gross. Price complete, $40.00. tity, 3 gross. Price complete, $40.00.
fee!) | waimam | 18 | Old | Foot 15 135_ __figin | 18 | Old & New|Cock & Foot! __13 | Hampdea | 18 | Old & New!__ Foot} yes He
B82 | wire | is | ov Foot 6_}_136_|_tigin_|_18 | O14 & New|Cock & Foot! _14 Mamedza |_15__|O1d & New] __Foot__|_12_ Set 1001. Cabinet containing 36 bot- Set 1011. Cabinet containing 36 bot-
fee [1S | women |_16 |New #014) __Cock __|_10_}_137_|_Sigt_!_18_} Old & New|Cock & Foot!_1s |-Hsmeten_|_18__] 014. New! _Foot__| 38 tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- | tles, with 44 dozen in each bottle. Total quan-
wee | 114 | waitham | 16 [New& Ole} Cock | 11_§-_ 138 | Elgin | 18 | Old & New lCock & Foot 16 _ 2_| Mampden | 13 [Old & New, Foot | _14 tity 114 pee Ie Price com lete, $22. 50. tity. 134 ros Price c let $22. 50.
L''5 | wattham 16 |New&Old} Cock 12_ §_139_ | Elgin 16 _| Old & New|Cock & Foot| 19 | Mampden | 18 | Old & New| Voot | 15 ity, 2 gross. ri p Y, 47% Sross. omptete,
: 116 | Watttam | 16 |New&Oid| Cock | 13 140 | Eien | 16 | Old & New Cock & Foot! 11 Wines | 18 |Old& New! Cock 12 2.
Bess peels | Waltham 2 18 |New & Old| Cock} 4 mek _ Eigin | 16 | Old & New|Cock & Foot|__12_ | _Wingia | 18 | Old & New Cock pe) tae Set 1002. Cabinet conti ining 36 bot- Set 1012 Cz abinet containing 36 bot-
| 118 | wattam | 16 |\New&Old| Cock 15 [142 | eigin_| 16 | Old & New|Cock & Foot|_13_ ~litissis | 18 |Old & New! Cock | 14 __ tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- tles, with } V, dozen in each bottle. Total quan-
reed | 119 | waltham 10 |New&Old| Foot | 10 9 143 | fee | 12 | New [Cock & Foot! 8 _Wiesis | 18 |Ol4& New) _ Cock 15 tity, 3=4 ‘gross. Price complete, $12.25. tity, 3nd. gross. Price complete, $12.25.
| 420 © waltham 16 |New &Old| Foot |_11 144 | Eigin | 32 | New _|Cock & Foot/_ 9 _lWisois_|__18__| Old & New) __ Foot [2
121 Walttan | 16 |New&Old| Foot | _12 145 | Elgin | 12 | New _|Cock & Foot! __10 —iilinets_|_18__| Old & New! __Foot__|_18 Set 1005. Cabinet containing TO DOt= Set 1020. Cabinet containing 72 hbot-
RM | 122 Walttam | 16 |New&Oid| _ F {139 146] etm | 12 | New (Cock & Fons ' ue i 1s Sos “w toes 4 tles, with 1 dozen in each bottle. Total tles, with 1 dozen in each bottle. Tot il quan-
. 123 _Waltham 16 |New & Old Foot ) 147 | Elgin | 6 | Old & New Cock oy 8 | inois, | 18 ew)___ Foot | 18 ages pe e
124 watttam | 16 |New& Old! Foot | as 4148 | elem | \O1d& New Cock & Foot! 9 6 472 1 Wises | 18 |Ol@Newi Poot | _16°_ quantity, 6 gross. Price complete,$75.00. tity, 6 gross. Price complete, $75.00.
W, GREEN & CO., WATCH MATERIALS AND JEWELERS SUPPLIES. 6 MAIDEN LANE. NEw Yorn.

Set 1006. Cabinet containing 72 bot- Set 1021. Cabinet containing 72 bot-
tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Totalquan- | tles, with 44 dozen in each bottle. Total quan-
tity, 3 gross. Price complete, $42.50. tity, 3 gross. Price complete, $42.50.

SS << < sans SRE RE SERENE ~

oC ce SiR we em — AeA \ Set 1007. Cabinet containing 72 bot- Set 1022. Cabinet containing 72 bot-
aks is cs ‘ eK Xo tles, with 74 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- | tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Total quan-
pyle Se OCEESO tity, 114 gross. Price complete, $24.00. | tity, 114 gross. Price complete, $24.00.
HAA Als ES Sea \ tity, 14 M

Sa — . > oe ; ONY CON AKG \

‘8

eae cae aaa << . < ae For replenishing stock
woh \\ Rae AK
oy = Ane Ww ie sk

‘ay. ye N EN WK Ne

Price per Gross, $15.00

2. MO aD BAOAVON DS YOR qs os OLPNYA 3 uN
aon arcana SVEN s AS NES : Seeteeeenaeaaees : 66 66 Dozen I 3 5
= Sate TL CEL AN = SSA RE SA ee ‘
oe Se ee LONG EARA BOLE. D BO

one UAT A SEAS SN Kak ck ALEK . eras.

\ SX
AG Wass ele ee As =) NOTE :—Cut this page out of THE KEYSTONE and insert
to SACRO NN Os PANN oN x AEN ENE . it either in your Catalogue or paste in a con-
7 | venient spot near your workbench. Do not cut
PATO SATE ————— mS —— peers rane EERSTE TTR ; or destroy the illustration, as we can fill all
' ' 5 zee, >. se Se orders correctly simply by quoting number
desired.

’ \ GREEN & CO Maiden Lane Exborices hoe Se teenie ae
Jobb ewelers’, Engr
: bP NEW YORK, U.S.A. WManitactarers Opticians’ Supplies

1594

Hewes Hand-Wrought Gravers

UE SMT Te J. F.HEWES “Allie

404,

SCOOT TOIT

Skillful workmen.

Made oe by hand, by s
Each one carefully tempered and tested. They are
hard, tough and reliable; will cut anything from
lead to steel. Every one warranted unconditionally.

This style can ‘be had with round, flat or square
tops, assorted sizes.

Straight Gravers . - ; 4
Curved Gravers ; ‘ x ‘

For sale by all jobbers.

Try the Phoenix Recoiling Mainsprings

The best in the market. Expert watchmakers pronounce
them to be perfect in every respect. Order from your
jobber. If he is unable to supply you, write us and we will
inform you who can.

$1.00 Dozen; $12.00 Gross

HENRY ZIMMERN & Co., INC., Sole Agents, 77 John Street, NEW YORK

JaAalry

7s THESE ELECTRO-PLATING SALTS ane :
Cg i397 \:ONN Kp DRY FORM@su iyi
© IMETALann SS AL E ACCURATE PRO:

(oie SuaDes. DISSOLVED INWATER THE BATH ISRTONCE!|

‘READY FOR USE. WORKED win EITHER
“BATTERY, SAME AS OTHER SOLUTIONS. warn ocone

CLOSED

OPEN ACTUAL SIZE CLOSED

YOU my have this wonderful catch, which locks itself, on all your
———— Diamond Brooches or Mountings without extra charge.
[t absolutely secures the pintongue ; simply insist on having it.
Special Prices on this Catch, in Large Quantities, to
Manufacturers, Wholesalers and Exporters

We make every possible conception in Diamond Mountings, Mounted
Diamond or Rich Gold Jewelry at values that defy competition, because we
buy all our loose stones in Europe for spot casa of first hands.

When YOU intend purchasing your DIAMONDS, Rubies, Sapphires,
oe Pearls, etc., for the Holiday business, write us for a selection

~~ ABEL BROS. & CO.

Importers and Cutters of Diamonds. Makers of Fascinating Diamond Jewelry

Abel Building, John & William Streets, NEW YORK

Branches in Amsterdam, Antwerp, Paris, London, Idar, Oberstein

SOME OF THE SALTS:

Guinea Green, Guinea Rose, Gold Dip, Silver salts, French Gr: ay Dip, Silve a0 bonizer, Oxides, Kte.
OUK Sr a PLATING
SALTS F

are the leading shades now extensively used for single and double coloring.
kind of work with order.

Rose Gold, Green Gold, Parisian, Roman, 14 or 18 K., Red, Guinea, Old E nglish

Dark Green Gold x= Orange Rose Gold

(Antique Green) (Orange Yellow)
Directions for doing this
Write for circular.

H. Hirschbach, Prop., 80 Elm St., NEW YORK

Our Electro-Plating Salts are universally used.

U. S. ELECTRO-CHEMICAL CO.,

No. 6-F Automaton Blowpipe

For Light
Soldering

The flame
can be instantly
changed from a
needle point to
a large brush flame.
the hand does it.

Price by mail, $2.00

The ‘‘B. D. M. Co.’s”’ original No. 6-F Automaton Blowpipe
is substantially made aid correctly proportioned to give best results.

A slight movement of

Order direct, or specify ‘6B. D. M. Co.’s’”’ when ordering through
your dealer.
Write for catalogue ‘‘B. k.’’ illustrating gas and_ gasoline

furnaces and blowpipes, foot blowers, etc.

Buffalo Dent2z] Manufacturing Co.
587 and 589 Main St. BUFFALO, N. Y., U.S.A.

IN LINE FOR THE FALL TRADE

Everything in American

Order from
any catalogue

Tools and Materials

Jobbing Stones
Novelties and Souvenirs

Mail Orders our Specialty

L.. COHEN & CO,

630 Pennsylvania Ave., N. W.
Washington, D.C.

Send for
Prices on our New
Nickel Alarm Clock and the
New Guaranteed Dollar Watch,

Stem Wind and Set.

]
i
:

} |

il
i
|

Two articles each cost a dollar. One sells for $1.25, the
other sells for $1.75. Why? Send for our emblem
catalogue and you will know.

iN
i

bh Ss ee ERR ES Sod Tee lap testers $ + (Ve ead BO
“est tee oe £2587 we
.

ole eae
tees Oe

i eet ieuteeg ts ets wetter et Pe eNrey, : ie
B25. —
, £2 OB
nee -
wise
SNe ;
sole

sig
* 8 ee tee toot
OY Perr ts

All the Year Essentials | THE W. J. FEELEY COMPANY

‘‘STAR’’ Brand American Mainsprings. cate duality, fine E 1 .
crocus finish, correctly gaged; made of the finest special
steel; the tips are fitted perfectly. Price per dozen, 85c. cc esiastical Art Metal Workers
Bou cash; price per gross, $9.5€ net fash -

SPECIAL. We will give an elegant Solid Oak Mainspring Cabi-
net, with (20) drawers, worth $6.00, with your first order 203 Eddy Street, PROVIDENCE, R. I.
fori gross of ‘‘ Star’’ American Mainsprings, assorted to
suit, for $10.50 net cash.

* **STAR”’ Brand American Balance
Staffs, extra fine, made by the latest
improved automatic machinery, cor-

rectly gaged, special 7 Jewel grades, -

90c. 5 Jewel grades, polished, $1.15. 17 Jewel grades, polished, $1.35 per dozen, net cash.

: * ‘‘STAR”’ Brand American Balance Hole Cock and Foot Jewels in set-

tings, made by automatic machinery, correctly gaged, snecial, per dozen,
90c. net cash.

* ‘*STAR”’ Brand American Roller Jewels that will fit properly, 25c. per
dozen ; special, $2.50 per gross net cash, including Oak Cabinet with 12
bottles.

* “STAR” Brand American Long Case Screws that will fit properly, 20c.

per dozen; special, $2.00 per gross net cash, including Oak Cabinet with 12 bottles.

i All the above prices are strictly NET CASH.

Orders filled in rotation as received.

H.B. Peters & Co., pizzavay, New York

BRAND

In Pure Stone

Amethyst, Topaz, Garnet, Crystal,
Onyx and Turquoise. Mounted
in 14 K. rolled-gold plate, $10.00,
$12.00, $14.00 each. Mounted
in solid gold, $35.00 to $50.00

each.

In Imitation Stone
Mounted in 14 K. rolled-gold

plate, stones of good color, clear
cut facets, Amethyst, Topaz,
Garnet, Emerald, Crystal, Opal
and Turquoise.

Mother of Pearl

Prices—$2.00, $2.50, $3.50, $4.00 and
$5.00 each.

Our new illustrated Catalogue now ready for
distribution. Mailed on request.
Selection package on application.

Our list includes Chalices, Ciboria. Osten-=
soria, Crucifixes, Candlesticks, Candelabra ae
Steele Memorial Library Building, ELMIRA, N.Y. : f é ; :

: Pulpits, Altar Lamps, Sanctuary Rails and 55
sNortn ught ; a beautiful building; ground floor location. The finest equipment. Your PISS IPSs s y R a No. SEs
instructor the author of ‘‘The Art of Engraving,’? “Modern Letter Engraving,’ etc. Memorial Tablets, In Sterling Silver, $1.00 each

1596

A GOLDEN RULE

Trade with us as you would have others trade with you

Get on our satisfied list and get the refining end

of your business oft your mind

THE BROWN & DEAN COMPANY

3 s 102 and 104 Richmond Street
Gold and Silver Refiners Ructincae s

RELIABILITY—TI HAT’S THE POINT

For 43 years
Wm. Kleeman
& Co. have
held the record
for High Art
Jewelers’
Store Fixtures
MADE TO
ORDER,

from plans and
specifications
which they pre-
pare through

LLG ; ee ale SGiattik ad BS She ts SSS BAL | lI Sass = correspondence
si : —— a NS a eee or personal inter-
| oS ae een C4 SNK views with their
a a Setest Kermit OR Rory SSS SN experienced
Ss WGA LES Wh 4h i travelin
ne “hy “<< £
—\ eee \ Aen AMS. ee eae e
Ae ALN Sh i SS See s representatives,
a : . ah x ae ee
No regular HAND-ME-DOWN STOCK, MODELS OR DESIGNS. THAT’S THE KIND OF CABINET WORK WE LEARNED HOW
Every piece of Store Furniture to suit the demand of the location, the | TO MAKE.
business expected to be gained and THE CUSTOMER’S POCKETBOOK. | Do you need us? If yon need information, our draughtsmen are at
YOU PAY NO MORE for what you need and want and ought to get your service. No charge for plans, designs or suggestions.
than you used to pay for ready-made fixtures, and the kind of wood or glass Delivery guaranteed within the time it takes the sluggish, old-time dealer
and color of finish is to your individual taste. to pack his stock goods, and at REASONABLE COMPETITIVE PRICES.

WRITE US; WE’LL TELL YOU ALL ABOUT IT

For 43 years Largest Makers of High-Grade Jewelers’ Store Fixtures, Wholesale Int and Offices in the World

1597

TO THE RETAILER:—IFf you want a line of RINGS that will sell
at sight and pay you a good profit—Rings that will not come back
with the stones out, to plague you—try the BRYANT RINGS.

We have made and sold them for 50 Years.

M. B. BRYANT & CO.
ren 7 Matden Lane, NEW YORK

SEND AT ONCE

for the most complete Catalogue of Fire and Police Depart-
ment Badges ever published

THE C. G. BRAXMAR CO.

Manufacturers No. 10 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

HIGH-GRADE
JEWELRY STORE
FIXTURES

wy
Sis te :

THE EXTREME OF BEAUTY it store iurniture 1s attaimedsin our special
jewelry store fixtures in

ORIGINAL DESIGNS

Counters, Show Cases, Wall Cases and all manner of artistic cabinet work.

EXCLUSIVE AND UNIQUE

Drawings and estimates furnished free.

Glaser, Rohrer & Co., Pn ave Fee" New York

.
)
)

, 90e.

Per dozen yards
Per dozen yards, 60.. ;

.
-

18 leaves to yard.
12 leaves to yard.

Ivy Vine.
Ivy Vine.

No. 91024
per gross yards, $9.00.

Per
No. 91022.
per gross yards, $6.00.

12 leaves to vard.

ards, $6.00,

Maple Vine, autumn shaded,
Sy

dozen yards, 60c. ; per gros

No. 91011.

2
0”

No. 91005.

im any color ar

large paper chrysanthemums

r dozen yards, $3.00

Chrysanthemum Vine.

1d 12 leaves to yard.

No. 91015.
finely plated leaves to yard.
$1.50.

Grape Vine.

Per gross yards, $15.00.

No. 91199.

ach, 60c. ; per dozen $6.00,

No. 91186.
No. 91187,

Just as pretty and natural appearing as the
natural ones, but not quite as expensive, though

Rose sprays, 14 in, long, per dozen, $1.50

ty OF

hos Sat

a 14 in, oS

better for lasting qualities.

per gross

yards, $30.00.

No. In. high Lys. Each
91851 24 4 $ .40
91855 36 5 10
91857 36 6§ 1.00
91860 42 12 2.00

SAGO PLANTS
( Unpotted. )

No. 91121
HRYSANTHEMUM SPRAY

No. In. long

91121 18 $2.40
91122 24 3.00
91120 14 1.50
9756. Paper Chrysanthe-

mums, any color, per

doz., 49c.; per gross, $4.00

9 large green very
Per dozen yards

AMERICAN BEAUTY

The best imitation to nature yet produced, each
spray 36 inches long, roses can be had in any color.

Doz.
£4.00

7.60
10.00
20.00

Per. Doz.

MONSTER GRAPE
A wonderful piece of work, being
equal or even superior in size and shape
to the largest bunch of grapes ever grown
in sunny California, aud for appearance
deceptive enough to eat. Just the thing
for fall decoration, for store, show win-
dow, ete.
No. Each
91990. 18 in. long,containing 2 gross

of single berries, round $2.50

91991. 12 in. long,containing 1 gross

of single berries, round 1.50
91992. Sin. long, containing 6 dozen

of single berries, round By £3)
91993. din, long, containing 2 dozen

of single berries, flat .20
91975. 4in. long,containing 114 doz,

of single berries, flat 15

The above grape clusters may be
had in either red, blue or green. "For
prices of gold or silver grapes, ask for
special quotations.

EN
2

No. 91031,
yards, $1.50;

a GY oe? ee
a ‘v4 = VY
<

5 Ausf ees

No. 91896,
24 inches diameter.
oak leaves, just in season,

Oak Vine.

at
¥

per gross yards, $15.00.

3 + as
a

z t ‘

OAK WREATH
Made of fine autumn shaded
ach, $1.50.

PREPARED PUFFING

of cotton bunting for trimming the woodwork
and background of your show window, Ser-
viceable for background to my vines. Can
be had in any desired color.
In widths of 134 3%

Price per yd. 5c. 7c.

1014 inches

15c.

Also Complete Line of

Paper Flowers for Parades,
Carnivals, etc., to decorate
Floats, etc.

‘4 No. 91842. Areca Plant
7 (Unpotted)

No. 91834. PALM TREE rn a

(I otted ) S Sb é S aS

No. Ft. high Lvs. Each Pair A ss. mm Rico
91830 7 12 $3.00 $5.50 91840 24 3 .20 $$ 2.00
91882 9 18 4.00 7.00 91841 36 Db Gio 7.50
91834 12 24 6.00 11.00 91842 42 6 .85 8.50
91843 48 8 1.00 10.00
91844 60 10 1.5 15.00
91845 60 12 2,00 20.00

If you have not received my fall circular

No. 29 C, would be pleased it
you would write for it

140 Wabash Avenue; SHICAGO

No. 91158.
Autumn shaded

OAK SPRAY

Per dozen sprays. . . $ .76
Per gross sprays
No. 91159. Oak Spray, com-
posed of three of my regular
91158 sprays. Per dozen, $2.25

per gross, $22.50,

_
-
i

<
ae
€:

oS
~
SOK

. .
No. 91814. PALM PLANT
7 ( Unpotted)

No. In. high Leaves Each Doz.
91800 24 3 $ .18 $1.75
91805 46 4 25 © 2.50
91809 3 5 40 8 4.00
814 42 6 50 5.00
1818 42 7 65 6.50
oi 48 10 1.25 12.50
4 60 12 2.00 20.00

Autumn shaded, 12 leaves to yard.

A uazop 13g

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Per dozen

1599

PERFECT

CONSTRUCTION

IN BYERY DETAIL

HARD SPINDLES RUNNING IN
N HARDENED
STEEL

BUSHINGS

FULL NICKEL PLATE

BEWARE

OF
IMITATIONS IN COMPARING PRICES WITH
OTHER LATHES, LEARN THE 3
DIFFERENCE IN SIZE, “2
QUALITY AND DETAILS a ‘i
OF CONSTRUCTION } oS
Lathe, including Taper and Screw Chuck, \ e
6 Cement Chucks and belting . . $29.00 x
Extra Wire and Wheel Chucks . . F -75 each \ )
A CHUCK MAY LOOK ALL RIGHT, YET BE ALL WRONG, x pe (
Our Chucks are made of the very best steel and absolute concentricity of ‘i i oe fy!
cone, thread and hole is obtained by the most improved methods based upon 3 y
years of experience. We use no Dies for the threads, but CUT THEM ON A X
LATHE; nor do we file and polish the cone, body or hole, but GRIND them to \
a standard on special grinding machinery and guarantee perfection in every part.
\WE CAUTION YOU AGAINST THE IMPERFECTIONS OF THE IMITATION Ne ar ee Mise varantce 3s packed
_ 4 pY nf by our experience of 32 years
FOR SALE BY ALL JOBBERS ) in building Lathes and the perfect
IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA | methods used in their construction

‘TH E...t Roo ee

Beaded Label

French ,.eateh Glasses

The Crown Watch Glass

“CLEAR AND BRIGH®

AND LABELED RigaT”

CORRECT SHAT
a AND

SUSSFELD, LorsH & Co.

Wholesale Agents
PARIS NEW YORK

21 Rue de l’Echiquier 37 Maiden Lane

“8
ss
4

, %
. be earns ROS
ts Sy
Oh Ge sRL Ie Sk J
DN an ee eee
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3) ee

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rl ie ye aaan —— - <> ~— - a Pa sas er ro ri af 0m om ES ae at art ee ee eee a ee es

I600

HARDINGE BROS., 1036 Lincoln Ave., Chicago, III.

MOSSO’S :
MONARCH TEMPERING COMPOUND DALE CHUCKS—fFor all standard sizes watchmakers’ lathes
60 cents each. Every chuck guaranteed

INH TPP TET PTE

_ RES
—

i
“ili
On all
\

Do not 4 throw
away your old tools.
They can MEY 4 be made
perfect by EC temmate wat treatment
in this | m1 compound.

c Gili Anse bee att ae
1 ee

" HARDINGE!

|
9
il!

Full directions accompany each bottle
This compound fills a long-felt want in the _ We have reached a proficiency in chuck manufacturing excelled by none. We are
watchmakers’, jewelers’, engravers’ and dentists? selling more chucks now than ever before. Quality and price talk. Buy Dale Chucks,
business. It has been used by large tool manufac- they are the best that money and experience can produce.
turers for the past twenty years with great success,
and we are now placing it upon the market in
quantities suitable for watchmakers, jewelers, etc.
An ordinary drill tempered in this compound
will cut chilled cast iron, tempered steel or the
enamel of a tooth. It will tempera lathe tool, hand
tool or graver which will cut glass and still retain a
keen, tough cutting edge and will not crumble or
break on any kind of work. It makes all steel fully
) twice as good as when tempered in water, and with
. it a result has been attained that has never before
been possible. |
It never evaporates or loses its strength. One
bottle, if not wasted, will last a lifetime.

Price, per bottle, $1.00

HARDINGE BROS., Sole Distributors for
United States and Canada Fitted to any lathe, Price, $30.00 With Trefoil Peep Holes, Price, $8.00

ARDINGE
Bebe HOUGHTON
FACE PLATE
MFGD. BY
HARDINGE BROS. ff

°4e
y2 SIZE

\\\\
\\\\\\

donde

Jewelers’ Findings are
made of the best grades
only

cS ;

Balance Staffs and C. & F.
Jewels are American=made
and guaranteed to fit

3) ee

American | mt
° ° No.168. Balance Staffs, Hardened, Tempered and
Mainspring’s Polished . . -
No. 169. Balance Staffs, Hardened and Tempered,
Gray Finish ; ‘ ; ‘ . 60 a“

. $1.00 per doz.

are guaranteed to be the
most perfectly gaged and (m

best finished mainsprings
No.170. C. & F. Jewels in Polished Settings, Ruby

| and Sapphire . ot P%s ; . $1.00 per doz.
No.171. C. & F. Jewels in Turned Settings, Garnet. .50 “6

on the market.

er dozen, $1.00
P » > We send gratis a handsome cabinet and 12 bottles with 6 dozen
_ of our best grade Reliance Brand Balance Staffs and Jewels.
rs “ , iz
With your first order for | NOTE ony ihe a Seige and the most up-to-date automatic machinery are used
. ; : for making the Reliance Brand Balance Staffs and Jewels. All Balance Staffs and Jewel:
one gross of our Reliance Brand are carefully examined as to their accuracy by experienced A ane Di pote eae
= : , aot on the market. We will be only too pleased to exchange any Balance Staff or Jewel which x =
Mainsprings we give you gratis pera ee find defective. No jeweler should be
| : without our new ogue of
a handsome oak or walnut 20 | Orders Filled from any Catalogue it vl eM Catalc BME
| Jewelers’ Findings. You can

obtain one by sending us your

drawer Mainspring Cabinet. WE CARRY EVERYTHING KNOWN TO THE TRADE
WRITE US FOR PRICES AND CASH DISCOUNT J business card,

1601

We Carry a Complete Stock of Watches, Diamonds, Jewelry, Silver

and Plated Ware, Watchmakers’ Tools and Material
Lathe Cone for Rings

SPRINGS

$ 1.00 per Dozen
10.50 per Gross

Height 3.

Co a EE:

Height 4.

7 IE TOE RTT TG TN TBE RTE

Height 5.

P SETLIST A a

Height 6.

EAT

Height 7.

§ .75 per Dozen
7.50 per Gross

(A Corporation)

A Regent Mainspring Cabinet
is given FREE with your first order for 1 gross
Regent American Mainsprings

Height Ss. .
Fac-Simile of Our Label

NOTICE—owing to the further advance in the prices of Watch Classes by European
manufacturers, we have revised our prices to date as follows:
Genevas . » » $ 7.20 per gross
Thick Mi=Concavyes..... . Sis 2 L2c00" Se as
Mi=Concaves, Extra Thick. 9.00 ‘
Parallels wh Wa

DOZEN LOTS AT SAME RATE

- - . « -» $3.60 per gross
J 4 00 “é “é

Importers, Exporters and Manufacturers
Watches, Diamonds, Jewelry,
Silver-Plated Ware, Etc.

OF SOLID GRIT

3 { ,
Fos pen ac aa
> KRESS
“TERS aR EN Ot
‘ * wy ae
‘ 4 » PoP ov
IN,

A desirable article for repairing. Is made of solid grit
Has a metal

and will outwear thousands of paper shells.
taper cone to fit on brush arbor.

In two grades—one to cut down solder, the other to

finish next to rouge.

Refuse metal can be removed in a few seconds with

ammonia and gold saved if desired.

Price per pair, 75 cents

Ml
>.
/ Wi} }) Hh ) i
UY yy Ip

yy
Y

Uy Yj
YY yy

Patent Genevas...
Eentitiés’ & ... « 5 j
es PUIMEMOUICS) nie is «8 = S etete sec mee
“6 PWSMECtES® os os 6 6 ewe 3.00 *

BLANK ORDER SHEETS SENT ON APPLICATION
Discount, 6 per cent. off
ORDERS FILLED FROM ANY CATALOGUE

Cross G Beguelin,

tn a

“PARALLEL.

LENTILLE.

ee ee

PATENT CENEVA.

EXTRA THICK MI-CONCAVE

| ee

THICK MI-CONCAVE,

MMU

r Dozen

r Gross

$ .75 per Dozen
7.50 per Gross

17 Maiden Lane, New York

oO
—_-™

BLOC

BUFFALO, N. Y.

1602

The Southern Jeweler who wants satisfactory values and prompt shipments should remember

Ol lt I ON eel el el el ll all al dl alll el atl al

that that—

Baltimore being the é- as we sell the Jewelry
natural distributing VEWELPY rf JEWELLE: Trade only we are
point for the South able to anticipate your

WATCHES and DIAMONDS
saves you from twenty- needs and to fill your

four to forty-eight Baltimore, Md. orders with absolute

hours on your orders. 2 East Lexington St., cor. Charles correctness.

Selection packages sent upon request er ee

ESTABLISHED 40 YEARS

Watch Case Making, Repairing
Remodeling and Reconstructing

OUR SPECIALTY—Changing old Antique Cases to
Stemwind

Engraving and Engine-Turning. Gold and Silver Plating.
Satin-Finishing and Polishing

SEND FOR PRICE-LIST MINIATURE PORTRAITS
DEMAGNETIZING

N. J. FELIX, 18 John st., NEW YORK CITY

-_——
_—*

High-grade complete screw-cut=-
ting engine lathes, 9 and 11-inch
swing, with automatic cross-feed,
with or without compound ee

\ \ at ; a +] =
N PJ BUF e ————s ae ° “115
y y 4+} Coe LL oO (ase draw-in chuck, taper, milling

: ’ f ES vy, aN
41) Ae DE >} CE es 99 Foot and
| ae w a Cs
A ‘ wy >
r — : t 2: 3 Con o D (Fe = Sy ie ~ = = rs Po cr
> aale hy ; tee id , 4; ye a 7 .

countershaft, metric lead-screw, etc.

ELKS’ BUTTON ELKS’ BUTTON Sees = ; aa = < gear-cutting attachments, friction

(Front.) Pat’d. Ora, | 5249
Sterling Silver and Gold-Plated a i

I do all kinds of
work for the trade.
Workmanship the very
best, and _ satisfaction
guaranteed,

AM he

cision service.
Send for Catalog ‘‘ B.’’

TIGER CLAW RING

Side View MONKEY RING Heavy Engine Lathes.

Solid Silver, Oxidized
The Seneca Falls Mfg. Co.

Ikko Matsumoto Manufacturing Jeweler | . I : ] = 2 = < B : 246 Water Street

Suitable for tool, model, and scien-
tific instrument makers, optical, lab-
oratory and experimental work, for
profitable use in all lines of fine,
accurate manufacturing and pre-

We also make Bench Lathes,
Speed Lathes, Wood Lathes and

$e8K

Rooms I, 2 and 3, 17% S. Meridian St. Indianapolis, Ind. : SENECA FALLS, N.Y., U.S.A.

Se oo a = © ux gy
=, « umou te ce ye eee ee > 6
CN pe a ae ‘= a OO © =
vu yes s o = cw 2am™nNes a5
bcos! 5 n od ei fy ers
rs SC Lowe ioe es c+ = of mh \Z
= “0D “a mss v = Oo DH ° . v
& s) -— — wo = Sp = tH = sc S & LLY
q = § »« oes S ie - + & 8 5
«D) — S oso 7 Qu. 3h ot FQ. - ea)
x, eres Ot «= a 25 = =m - S Ss ~ oO ee =
— 9 ro) + = & S 80-55 "aso 2 care [Ly
ad =: , £88. 3080” oa 6
> fm f= = Leena ee eu ee Ds <
: 2M € & me “se Ww Og Oo mo °° set
a nS S q' = Ss OFA +S “ys & os
~ Ne. oo woe e 5 . = ne °
S| mg es: P oe eet oS eo 3a =
ye D7 SN a 2 gaa 2 a SY 4 MSS ap
© Y oe CMNews VY Spot + 2 See DO Ss &
21” So) Oe 7 8 ee TO see
oy 7 oO eee 26. lek eee mS 58
Y) = 3 Seu: @ 5
a Ga a. Oo Ww ee)

Nineteen Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

A LITTLE ARGUMENT =

;

CC Nie
ARR \ “ AA . ‘i WK Ny RAN 7
Sy ~~ CEN SN

FILES? Yes, but—

“Only the best are good enough ”—for—

TOOL MAKERS, JEWELERS, WATCH and WATCH CASE MANUFACTURERS, Ete
Ever tried “‘ AMERICAN SWISS ”—No ?—

Then kindly send for Price-List and Samples.

No charge for Files used in trying them.

We offer to pay the freight on Sample order both ways, it you wish (because they never come back).
KIND? Swiss Patterns, all shapes and cuts. Sizes up to 12”.

OUALITY? A trial will tell.

PRICES? Lower than imported—higher than any other “made in U.S.”

MADE WHERE ?—Elizabeth, N. J., U.S.A.

BY WHOM? American Swiss File & Tool Co,

Enufsed ?

OH! DELIVERY ?—Prompt by

He. REICHHE LM Q3e€Oe 2%. John SereetINiews Y ork

We Blank
Form
Swedge

()ur finish finest for

PLATINUM

Special Sheet and Wire for Jewelers
Seamless Tubing

the money

iy a) WY VB Submit sample for
<j WW, ' ¥ gw e
No Sa ice our price

A.N. Clark & Son, Plainville, Conn.

Platinum Scrap Bought

Highest Price

BELAIS & COHN

Metallurgists
is Dutch Se NEW YORK

ORDER FROM YOUR JOBBER

PRICES:

For Direct Current, $15.00
For Alternating “‘ 5.00

Agents for England: GRIMSHAW & BAXTER, 29 Goswell Road, London, carry stock

THE KNOBLOCK=HEIDEMAN MFG. COMPANY

Successors to
THE MILLER-KNOBLOCK ELECTRIC MFC. COMPANY
South Bend, Indiana

Our Fine Gray Cheviot Paper Boxes

Most Popu

Nest Boxes,

€
Nest

‘ec

sizes 3to6. .
sizes 7tog .
for baby rings
small size . .
medium size .
large

Phinple Boxes . . i. .°.
G PEt SpOOnS, + «4 aos

per gr

‘<

No charge for printing name and address

‘

Plain

OSS $2.50
‘

3.00
3-25

Jewelers’ Building, 134-138 Wabash Avenue

Established 1870

lar——Attractive—Rich Lookine

Swartchild & Company

IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF

Watchmakers’, Jewelers’ and Engravers’ Supplies
CHICAGO

Our 700-page catalogue sent free on application

Covered with Gray Cheviot Paper of Medium
Shade, with White Border, Telescope Style

MEDI“M
Fr /ING

No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.

K 92.
K 93.
K 94.

r
oa

WANA

1Te¢ea Spoon...

1 Coffee Spoon

I Dessert Spoon .

6 ‘<¢

Spoons

1 Table Spoon .

6 se

Scarf Pin

Spoons
Hat Pin, extra long

VIL ITINIS

si 2 s » » DEP Shoes S225
46 ia) by

‘¢

SEND FOR SAMPLES OF OUR EMBOSSED BOXES

‘

Plain

.
~
>
—_
~~

Om
~ +
©

DN ANG &
S
©

oa
—

NW
NOs U1
ww

Embossed
$4.25
4.00
4.75

5-75

7.00
7-50

4.75
3-25

ombined Lathe

REPLACING 12 ATTACHMENTS
including the two shown

Clement

Did you ever find a wheel that was not
free in its pinion? This attachment will fix
those wheels P. D. Q.

Did you ever find rusty pinions in your
watches ? And did you ever try to poiish
them out by hand? Can you imagine how
nice it would be to have a machine that
would do the work in one-tenth of the time

watches ?
might do work of that kind ?

work exactly.

Shown above as
ROUNDING=UP FIXTURE

Does the regular work of the reunding.

: trictl
up tools. $40.00 strictly net

If its use is not fully understood, please
write for further information; we are
always pleased to give it,

and ten times better? This does it,

Did you ever see the nicely polished
staffs and pinions of the highest grade Swiss
Did you not w.sh that you
By use of
this attachment you can dupiicate that

Complete in every detail

W. D. CLEMENT, Waltham, Mass.

Shown above as the
RUSTY PINION POLISHER

For polishing new or rusty pinions.
Not necessary to remove the wheel.
It works like a charm,

Is entirely new.

Stroke fully adjustable.

Set of 12 polishers furnished to fit the
different sizes of pinions.

Exceptionally Good
Jewelry Repairing

stone-setting and special order work is what we are equipped
for in our new department.

Many words of appreciation of its work have reached us
from customers and we would be pleased to add you to the
number of our well-satisfied patrons.

We have everything in personnel, machinery and ample
stock of material, to turn out the very best work promptly.
Let us send you our price-list.

Ezra F. Bowman’s Sons
Lancaster, Pa.

PLAIN FACTS

We have been engaged in the manufacture of
watchmakers workbenches for almost a quarter of
a century. We are the originators of the modern
bench and know a thing or two about them.

Our benches are made of different kinds of wood,
such as Mahogany, Walnut, Quarter-sawed Oak, Plain
Oak, Birch and Ash. They are honestly and well
made in every detail and of the best seasoned and
kiln-dried lumber. We finish them in any shade of
color desired. We ship our benches to every State
in the Union and to foreign countries as well.

Besides benches we make Watch Repair Cases
Jewelry Repair Cases, Material Cabinets, Material
Cases, Glass Cabinets, Mainspring Cabinets, Optical
Cabinets, Lens Cabinets, ete. We make to order
special benches and woodenware of every descrip-
7 tion that an up-to-date watchmaker needs.

WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS
Send for our new illustrated catalogue and order
what you want through your Jobber. Insist upon
getting our make. Our name-plate is on every
article we make.
Almost all Jobbers handle our goods,

JESSEN & ROSBERG, 397 to 405 w. Kinzie st, Chicago

Our Latest Flat-Top Bench, No. 8

Made in Walnut, Quarter-sawed Oak, Plain
Oak and Birch

Get it
To-Day »

Did You Get 7=F | Ke) A»

That Bottle o TRADE MARKG=——_|

It makes your Hard Soldering Easy.
whole lot to the Jeweler,

’

Never ‘‘balls up,’’ which means a
It saves a lot of time and maybe wicked words.

FREE! FREE?!

You get a large piece of E-Z-Floe Silver Solder free with every bottle.
These Reliable Jobbers handle it ;

Otto Young & Co., Chicago, III.
Henry Paulson & Co., Chicago, III.
A. Hirsch & Co., Chicago, Ill.

F. W. H. Schmidt, Chicago, III.

A. C. Becken, Chicago, III.

Calvin Clauer Co., Chicago, Ill.

Lindner & Co., Cincinnati, Ohio
Jos. Mehmert, Cincinnati, Ohio
O. H. Bingenheimer, Milwaukee, Wis.
Reed=-Bennett Co., Minneapolis, Minn.
S. H. Clausin & Co., Minneapolis, Minn.
, Pelot Haroldson & Co., Los Angeles, Cal.
Henry Zimmern & Co., New York City Leonard Krower, New Orleans, La.
L. H. Keller & Co., New York City W.P. Ellis & Co., Toronto, Can.

Sischo & Beard, St. Paul, Minn.

Write for our free book ‘‘ How to Hard Solder.”’

F=Z-FLOE CHEMICAL CO.

Globe Bidg.. St. Paul, Minn.

TIDD’S BALANCE STAFFS

are made of Stubbs steel, finely tem-

pered, accurately sized. Every staff is

guaranteed to fit, finish equal to any
made, made in two qualities, viz:

Gray finish body, polished pivots = = = $1.00 doz.
Highly polished for high-grade movements, 1.25 «§

Single staffs matched, 15c. each. Try a sample dozen.

TIDD & CO., Columbiana, OHIO

Our Catalogue
Is Made to Buy From

It is not the “biggest” Jewelry Catalogue in print, for we have
aimed at compactness and the listing of absolutely new goods, so that
our new catalogue would suit the busy, up-to-date jeweler. We have
tried to keep it as small as possible and still show the biggest line

of eoods.

It is the most concise and best illustrated catalogue gotten up by

an American wholesale jewelry house.
Ife quotes but one price and that is the lowest.

All of our goods and our only prices are there before you in plain
black and white. Every item is illustrated and all the facts about it
are given.

We believe every progressive jeweler in the Central West and
Southern territory to be a possible customer of ours, and feel confident
that he will buy of us sooner or later. The best we can do is to talk
to him through our Catalogue; the best he can do is to consider what

we have to say.

Get our new Catalogue. It will be sent out to the trade about the
latter part of October. If your name is not on our mailing list, it should
be. Should you not receive our new book by October 25th, write for it.

Get our new Catalogue, which is free to all regular jewelers for
the asking. Use its goods and hints for more business now. And
from the holiday goods it displays choose the goods for easy business

in Lecember.

ALBERT BROTHERS

The Quick Delivery House

CINCINNATI, OHIO

ea tee

efe'e's a

vere?

wie

PRACTICAL UP-TO-DATE TOOLS

re j [ my
THE LIGHTNING eee

PIVOT POLISHER
AND GRINDER

to the counter shaft in a
moments time.
It has two bell metal laps,
straight and one conical.

Lee tool can be attached

It needs no adjusting and ‘ cae
so simple, any one can operate
For grinding, use oil ston
powder and oil.
oe For polishing, use diamantine
A SS and oil.

Hh: &Curio Dealers Use;
© Price 25ctTs :
Non bebe tive il

| / i i a i uy
i

ann a
Hungarian Transparent
Cement

——_—_—____

—:!” —! —-
SS
a
f
=

WNT

Especially adapted for cement-
ing % Pearls, also used for Watch

Glasses when size is a little small.

The Lightning Pivot Polisher and Grinder

No watchmaker should be without thistool. Asalabor saving device it has no equal

PRICE EACH $2.50 PER BOTTLE 25 CENTS.

ie “ Perfection ” Soldering Block
ast

This is the only Asbes-
tos Soldering Block that
work can be pinned on,
_as it takes pins readily,
and will outlast dozens of
charcoal blocks.

oat

Price, with 1 doz. Pins 5Oc.

IER + rae i

il TT

The Perfect
Movement Holder

HIS movement holder has
three compartments and is

just the thing for the work your MAIL ORDERS ARE WHAT WE ARE AFTER

bench. Oftimes when the watch-

maker takes a movement apart, he We are accurate and quick. Orders filled from any catalogue.
finds some part broken which it will All orders filled the same day as received. Our catalogue is free for the asking,

be necessary for him to send for.
This movement holder will hold
three movements and is covered

fort ages ee oot 0S, AG

Price, 60 cents each 11 West Fifth Street, CINCINNATI, OHIO

Material Dealers can obtain the above tools from

HAMMEL, RIGLANDER & CO., New York, or direct from us

1608

A Profitable Side Line

FOR JEWELERS

In any city, town or village, a good business can be quickly developed
in the world-renowed Edison Phonograph. Extensive advertising and

continuous improvement have made the

Improved Edison Phonograph
and Gold Moulded Records

so popular that good profits await the jeweler who prepares to meet the increasing demand.
As every dealer must sell at the retail list price, there is no price-cutting, and his sales yield a
gross profit of 6674 cents on every dollar invested. We want a dealer in every town to develop
new business and to sell those who answer our advertisements.

Start now while the business is heaviest. Write for full information on your business
letter-head.

NATIONAL PHONOGRAPH CO., 55 Lakeside Ave., Orange, N. J.

i
© —— » ——— 5 ——_ + —— + ——__ o *~—__- « -—_ 0 — — 0

i | ye i
RTT TT III F IAAI LA TIOTL AI LATL AIL ATLAS IAI LAT IAT LAI SIESTA ATP ATLA TITLE IATL AIL AIL AIOE SISA ATION IOS OS at ot at poate

———_— oe —__— 9 —__"¢ — §——_— _¢ ~~ 6 ¢

Elgin, Waltham and
N. Y. Standard
Movements

Being advantageously Ps

’ located for the Southern

trade, we solicit your ix

Keystone, Boss, Ly
orders, and guarante le

Crescent, Crown and Tinporter and ; Rs > ge lS
Royal Cases every Satisfaction regard- a
; : as ee

ice SMorLaoias Ulbolesale Dealer ing prices and qualities.
Optical Goods Special attention paid |»
Tools and Materials Li Nortla Claarles. Street to mail orders, and i
for Watchmakers ° he
al SOME Baltimore, Md. CHADS ONL, EPSRC ot
cheerfully sent. a

“

x‘ Bad te raed td 1 "O62 a ¥ aaa re gd a ga ty shy ut “tye

*—, . «——_e— e —— e——__ + —___-e . —_ ——— . . o——e —e* . ‘ . , . o——e ‘ o——e —e— ~* -* e-- . o—_ 9 —. »———_ » ——__ » ————- ¢ ——-—_ » ———_ 5 ———— 5 ————_ » —— — 9 ———_ 2 ~-———_ 9 ——— he
4% AA® AK AAK 74 “al Sas ALK FAK ALK A4* AA ALY ALY FAK Z 4% FA® AA 5 ALK AK ALK 4® A4™ AA A4® ALY ALAR KARR ALY ALY AA ALK ALK ALY FOAM FAX FAK ALY AAK ALK AK $% 4™. 4 AAR ALK AAR AG K

Gold aa Silver REFINERS, ASSAYERS a

Se
==

Ha f

an SWEEP SMELTERS

Kote

ia ELL ; .

ati Prompt attention given to

ye BULLION SOLICITED Old Gold and Silver forwarded to us
SMELTING FOR by mail or express
+ ee th 1 th lisz | THE TRADE Southwest Corner
se SWEEPINGS |

OUR SPECIALTY __ Newark, N. J.

1609

Radical Reduction

YEAR-LONG CLOCKS

$8.90 Net Cash, f. 0. b. Philadelphia

J.B. BECHTEL & CO.

PHILADELPHIA

725 Sansom Street

“WINTER QUALITY” Jewelry Store Fixtures In the Good Old Harvest Days

The Best at Right Prices from $3 00.00 up
—— EN ee > 7
| | iN SE Ny i fea Ls

A **WINTER’’ QUALITY CASE

; : The Finest and Most Complete Book
ER, epi of its Kind Ever Issued.
int jor “ {6 Plans, interior views, new suggestions,
yC E separate fixtures, cases, counters, floor cases,
yO soda fountain fixtures.
Illustrated fully, described and listed in
so plain a manner that you can make your

own plans and estimate the cost of your

ES } ;
we Sor pu tines fixtures. “y c OR

Sent postpaid on receipt of 25 cents

c, ALY
41 tii, ty ” ss.

iii mana,
hal oo

THE LINE OF QUALITY. Not how cheap, not how much, but how good. At prices :
that are right. Ask our customers. Anything from a store stool to the most complete Jewelers’ Findings College Seals and Flag Pins
) > '

outfit. :
M. WINTER LUMBER CO., sheboygan, wis. SPECIAL EMBLEMS of every description.

Established 1865 The High-Grade Fixture Makers

Finlay-Dicks & Co., New Orleans, La., Sales Agents for Louisiana,
' Mississippi and Alabama. |
C. D. Smith Drug Co., St. Joseph, Mo., Sales Agents for Missouri, Kan-
sas, Nebraska, Oklahoma Territory and Indian Territory.

F. H. NOBLE & CO.

R. H. Birdsall, Room 7, Hamilton Bldg., Portland, Oregon, Sales Agent WAS ioe
for Washington and Oregon. Dee = y=: DNAX = ‘

Texas Drug Company, Dallas, Texas, Sales Agents for Northern Texas, , AOE 50th and Wallace Streets
Southern Oklahoma and Indian Territory, % Y Ae SALESROOMS

Chicago—103 State St. CHICAGO, Lee

New York—51=53 Maiden Lane

Have You Seen Our Auxiliary Caselets ?

GEO KUEHIA& CO,
MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF

Céencme Black Forest

CU CK OOS Gale@ Cik-s

Jewelers! If you ord€r
Cuckoo Clocks, order
therm, with the. 2 245.4

They are the BEST. There are none BETTER

Our clocks have received the highest award, ‘‘ Gold Medal,’’ at the Chicago, Omaha, Paris and St. Louis Expositions

For sale at all Wholesale Clock and Jewelry Houses

Lathes and Attachments

The Rivett Universal Head is made with a
spindle just like that in the regular Rivett Lathe head,
of the very best tool steel, hardened and ground, by a
machine especially made for this work. The pump-
center 1s fitted with a light spring, and the solid nickel
face-plate has three peep-holes, which makes it easy for
the see erm to see around the pump-center to
examine his work. It is considered by all who have
used it to be. a oreat improvement over all others.

In our Patent Jaws we do away with ae spiral spring. The
thumb screw ts grooved and runs ina T-slot in the ayers a thedower
jaw, which enables it to be thrown in and out without any trouble.
The lower jaw can be bound to any position on the plate with the
thumb nut in the center of the jaw, which holds it ae and steady.
This will be found of great advantage when it 1s necessary to take out
and replace the watch- plate a een bes of times.

Ask your dealer for Rivett Tools, or just address,
Rivett Lathe, Brighton, Boston, Mass., U.S.A.

am TREN The
Se Hold-On
> Clutch

Per Dozen

HOOPS

The Object of Our
Instruction

is to produce competent workmen without loss of time.

in solid gold
and in superior
quality

gold filled,

the celebrated
“Sturdy”
Simmons”
makes.

We receive many letters asking whether a student who
comes here with some previous experience is required
to go over the entire course. Our reply is, that

because we teach individually, it is not necessary for Price according to

the student to go over ground which he has already idan ae
covered, but we always test him to learn whether he
has learned proper methods of doing what he already
can do, and we generally find that we can show him

better or quicker ways of accomplishing some of the

The best of
all safety

devices Samples cheerfully submitted

operations he has been doing, and we can correct such

deficiencies In a very short time. Then he is ready ee 1 at: Stevan, 1 ‘7

to advance into new and _ higher subjects with the see :
; one Pe fe Chicago >

assurance that he is building a per ec

g on a perfectly sound ee 405 Masonic Temple
foundation. Our pleasure is to impart the knowledge Hee 2 i RS ELAND RY 47-49 Maiden Lane
which can be converted unceasinely j ‘as Bs gages
ed unceasingly into hard cash. ices Welded Vue New York

Send for our catalogue, which is full of new ideas.

The Ezra F. Bowman _ | WATCH REPAIRING for the Trade
T h ‘ i S h as **T have had my extra watch work done by
ec nica Cc OO Pe a number of ‘watchmakers for the trade’ with
soe indifferent success until you were recommended W i. ( raft
I rt Hee to me, since which time I have found your w rk ‘ *
of Watchmaking and Engraving seit as near perfect as it is possible to make it.”’
W.E

LANCASTER, PA. Z June 6, 1905. Soce Gb Ohio. 210 Pearl St., Buffalo, N. Y.

When writing to advertisers, kindly mention The Keystone

1611

Ou ELECTRIC POLISHING HEADS represent the

highest development in the operation of such apparatus, and embody all the essential

features necessary for strictly high-grade, efficient, and durable machines.

develop full power as indicated.

They will

If you have the electric current on your premises,

let us know whether it is direct or alternating and the number of voltage.

Send for latest catalogues and bulletins

W. W. Oliver Manufacturing Co: Manufacturers
1490-1492 Niagara St. BUFFALO, N. Y., U.S.A.

H HY \

|.
jst _ a)
ong ii :
{ aaah

Polishing
Plating
Coloring

The above illustration shows the No. 9 Dynamo connected with a Type ‘‘A”’ 1=5 H. P. Electric
Polishing Motor made by the W. W. OLIVER MFG. CO., Buffalo, N. Y. (Descriptive price
circulars on application. )

The Rheostat (illustrated in the upper left-hand corner) is used in connection with the
No. 9 Dynamo to regulate the current that any required amount may be allowed to flow through the
tank. (Price, $1.00.)

Prompt attention given to applications for price circulars and othe: information regarding
Electric Polishing Motors, No. 9 Dynamo, K. & D. Rheostat, Plating Tanks, ete. Address,

KENDRICK & DAVIS, Lebanon, N. H.
W. W. OLIVER MFG. CO., Buffalo, N. Y. or

N’ 9 DYNAMO sg.00

Manufactured by
KENDRICK & DAVIS, Lebanon, N H.

A shunt-wound and very powerful little Dynamo which can be oper-
ated from any convenient source of power. Asa Plating Dynamo it has
every advantage over primary batteries ; this arrangement does away with
the renewal of elements and solution, besides having the strength to operate
a 5-gallon bath successfully.

Speed, 2200 R. P. M.
9 pounds.

Volts, 2. Size, 6x4%x6. Weight,

Its design and construction embody the best practice common to the
larger machines in general use.

The Field is of the ring type cast solid with the frame.

The Coils are form wound and taped, and are safe from mechanical
injury or breakdown.

The Armature is laminated and slot wound, which prevents its
heating.

The Commutator is of hard copper and sparkless.

The Brush Holders are of ‘new design, and add greatly to the
efficiency of the machine.

The Brush Holder Yoke is adjustable; an advantage in regulating
and operating.

The Bearings are of hard bronze, nicely fitted.

Only the Best Material is used in its construction; the Dynamo
being finished in black enamel and furnished with 1%4’’ grooved or flat
pulley as desired.

At Speed of 2200 it generates 6 amperes and 2 volts, an output of 18 watts.

SUSSFELD, LORSGH GCG tetatgae °7 GADEN LANE

in)

Sas eS
ee = ge
NER CHI.

The Great Central Market for Jewelry
and Optical Goods

The foremost market in America, for the distribution of Watches,
Diamonds, Jewelry and Optical Goods. ‘The best
place for you to buy your fall bills

Excursion Rates and Dates of the Chicago Commercial Association will be found on the opposite page

JOHN H. HARDIN, General Secretary, oth Floor Great Northern Building, 77 Jackson Boulevard, CHICAGO

We are members of the Chicago Commercial Association. Write us for additional particulars

OTTO YOUNG & COMPANY BENJ. ALLEN & COMPANY
F. A. HARDY & COMPANY NORRIS, ALISTER & CO.
H. F. HAHN & COMPANY JUERGENS & ANDERSEN CO.

«*
¢
*
«
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gee gate et
at atl ve
*
.
¥
‘
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Pi * *
GRE tn: WG™
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ote get gt! oat
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4

CHICAGO THE GREAT CENTRAL MARKET
REDUCED during the months of JULY, AUGUST, SEPTEMBER and OCTOBER
FAR E. to the Great Western Metropolis and return, in connection with the
: | FALL MEETINGS, 1905, or

THE CHICAGO COMMERCIAL ASSOCIATION

At CHICAGO

G
The following reduced railroad rates to Chicago are now in force for Merchants’ Meetings

Western Passenger Association Territory—Rates of one and one-fifth for round trip on certificate plan have
been granted as follows

Dates of Meetings Dates of Sale Return Limit
Ist Meeting, July 190-26. 5 3. . ao 4 2 & Go aluly 15-22". 3 2 ew we a ss vs. « & July 19—Augusts
2d; Meeting, August: 9-16 -. > 0a et. = 4 2 UsUSt SIS 3 Se ew GS ew ws « ASUSt 9-22
3d Meeting, August 23-30 ......... .August 19-26 ........ . . August 23-September 5
4th Meeting, September 6-13 ...... ... .September 2-9... . September 6-19

5th Meeting, November I-8.. . 2 « « « w » October 28-November 4 . . . November I-I4

Centeral Passenger Association Territory—Rates of one and one-third fare for round trip on certificate plan
have been granted as follows

Dates of Meetings Dates of Sale Return Limit
Ist; Meeting;. August 9-16 « 395 & 4s 5 «43 5 aAugust:§—Il .. ...4... « « «August 9-19
2d Meeting, August 23-30 ........ .. .August 19-25......... .. .August 23-September 2
3d Meeting, September 6-13... ...... .September 2-8. ....... . . September 6-16
4th Meeting, November I-8....... ... . October 28-November . . . . . November I-II

Illinois Central Territory Points South of Ohio River—Commencing June rst and continuing until Sep-
tember 30th, aid bearing final return limit of October 31st, the following rates from basing points will obtain

Martin, Tenn. ..... . . . $19.50 Holly Springs, Miss. . .. . . $24.90 Vicksburg, Miss. . .... . . $26.10

Jackson, Tent. . . <« % 2 = «= 2875 Winona; Missa ee 6 Ged x a2, 25:85 Baton Rouge, La. ..... . 33.00

Memphis, Tenn: . 6.4 « « « + 23:40 Greenville, Miss. . ..... . 26.10 New Orleans, La... ... . . 33.00
jackson; Miss: 2 3 4 se + « « 25.35

The rates above are slightly in excess of one and one-third fare for round trip

Make our stores your headquarters when you come to town. We are at your service

C,H. KNIGHTS & COMPANY STEIN & ELLBOGEN COMPANY
SPROFHNLE & COMPANY M.S. FLEISHMAN COMPANY

SWARICHILD & CO. M. A. MEAD & COMPANY

1613

1614

Umbrella Extension

Extension and Tie Clasp made in Gold and Sterling Silyer to match the Handle

Mr. Jeweler: Tie Clasp

See that the umbrellas you buy this fall have the new Braitsch Specialties, “Tip Cups,” “Tie Clasps’’ and ‘“‘ Umbrella
Extensions,” illustrated herewith. They are the latest and best accessories now on the market. If your umbrella maker
cannot supply you, write us. Our trade-mark, ‘“ W. J. B. & Co.,” on all our goods.

Established 1887 W. J : BRAITSCH & A), 396-8 Broadway, New York

United States Smelting and Refining Works The Matchless
Le. & M. W : : ;
Office: 16 John ST ELS Si Pocket Cigar Lighter

Telephone, 5644 Cortlandt Works: Ky John St; New York The only perfected cigar lighter on the market
Made in Gun Metal, Aluminum, Brass, Silver Plate
Sweep Smelters and Assayers disid Plate and coudcoia

Refiners of all kinds of Gold, Silver, Platinum, Waste
Manufacturers of Sterling Silver

Highest BP tan anion hasace ey Scraps The Matchless Cigar Lighter
Manufacturing Co.

Office and Salesroom

16 John St., New York, N. Y.

WEBSTER’S ADJUSTABLE SOLDERING BLOCK

(Patented Dee. 3, 1903) It Willi Save You Time
and Trouble

Write for Prices

Proprietor of Platina Melting Furnace and Gold and Platina |
Filing Separating Process of greatest advantage to manufacturers __
of Platina Jewelry

No pins or binding wire necessary. Holds
spectacle frames, rimless bridges, hat pins, stick
pins, cuif buttons, rings, studs and many odd jobs
of jeweiry repairing.

This block is not an experiment, it has been
successfully used for the past two vears. When I
say that it will do your work quicker and better
than any other adjustable soldering device on the
market, lam telling nothing but the truth. Don’t
take my word for it, | am prejudiced, try one your-
self for thirty days, and if not found perfectly
satisfactory I will return your money.

If your jobber does not have them I will send
by mail upon receipt of price and 10 cents postage.

HN et ck Be Price with Pads for Holding Spectacle
‘3 NE Sareea wees cee
— ~a — HAMes:). . ieee oP eIeee 6 css $1.75
dicen’ eda Were Rae DECKER TES Price complete with both the Spectacle
LEADING WiTH Him LAUGHING WarerR aud Jewelry Pads 4. \.:> Gua 2.00

HAND IN HAND THEY WENT TOGETHER

THROUGH THE WOODLAND AND THE MEADOW ARTHUR R. WEBSTER, Milford, N. H.

HIAWATHAS WOOING

| LUNULALLSUA EUS. AdLL)

.
3
a

- MAMMOTH WHOLESALE JEWELERS —
— OF AMERICA ~—

The Strongest Cement

yet discovered—much superior to Shellac or

Hand in hand we’ll go together, __ im other gum or gelatine cements.
ROMA S WAS SUCCES AU DLOSpetity:. 7; ¥ It has no equal for fixing Pallet Stones and Roller
re Pins, making a much stronger and cleaner job than
3% 4 shellac. It is quite transparent, and will successfully
, PRK] ha exe : seca repair Broken Cut Glass, China, ete. The same proper-
Our 1906 Catalog w ill be ready for (a aig ee ties make it invaluable for setting fine Pearls. It pen
= ae eee . T ‘ ~ wee gs lis rants te fix a slack Watch Glass so that dirt cannot wor
distribution November 1, 1905 sepa SM rica: the berel, and do anc -ctheeten-wheren ater.
wt fg clean cement is required.
a : d we Pu Ligcbs A Sold by every material dealer in America
Meanwhile oe roe you Z0eL apis Prices ees
our 1905 Catalogs TET ae
a eS a ae SUSSFELD, LORSCH & CO.

Wholesale Distributing Agents
413 Elm Street pair sh ae Oe

skamp, Nolting & Coz Cincinnati, Ohio > ie aman 37 Maiden Lane, New York

1615

MEGA mMoveMENTS

ARE FINE TIMEPIECES

All made with Lever Escapements and Double Roller
Pendant Set Fitting American Cases

Made in 6 Different Grades

10 Ligne, 1 Ligne, O Size, 12 Size, 16 Size

From 7 Jewels to 21 Jewels, Adjusted to
heat and cold, and 5 positions

SOLD ONLY TO LEGITIMATE JEWELERS
PRICES NOT ADVERTISED IN ANY JOURNAL

A TRIAL WILL CONVINCE YOU OF THEIR MERITS SEND FOR PRICE-LIST
EDMOND E. ROBERT | seuss { CROSS & BEGUELIN
3 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK 17 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

Suitable for the Jewelry
Trade, consisting of
Real Lace, Hand-
Painted and Richly
Spangled Gauze Fans
mounted on Ebony, See
Ivory, Pearl and Bone S?AG eee
Mountings. ta,

NOVE LT! ES IN “AN S Oe

and its alloys, made expressly for
jewelers’ use

GRAND PRIZE, UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION
OSTRICH FEATHER FANS St. Louis, 1904

Mounted in Pearl or Tortoise Shell rarde
Mountings. All prices amatded

IGNAZ sTRAUSS & CO.]] BAKER AND CO., INC.

Manufacturers

Repair Department

BO Bone ; 120 Liberty St.
Be EX (Ss Up nee 62x Broadway NEY Boe slaeNewatic. No J Nev
9

Factories at Vienna, Paris, Kobe,
New Y ork

YOU USE GOLD ALLOY WE MAKE
SHOT COPPER

AMERICAN OIL & SUPPLY CO.
23=27 Division Place, NEWARK, N. J.

New York City

Importers of FLessian Sand Crucibles. peaters in Exverything for the Manufacturing Jeweler

GET ACQUAINTED WITH US. SEND FOR CATALOGUE

It’s Because of the Volume of Business <xs:

that we are enabled to sell goods on narrow margins, net cash.
It will pay you to get in touch with uy TRY IT HERE.

All Sizes,
Measure by
Shapes and Styles Ta Lengths

of Crosses Wi
Hi

LT TTT
HTT ATAU ATT TT WHA
| Nata aenne ‘| ||| cae §

We Carry in Stock all Styles of Lockets. Reduced Prices

HTH Wii);
A,

Hil} iil) Hi}
Wii} I h
yy M)) I}

No, #958 No. 5931 No. 5917 No, 5917144
No, 5955 :
No. 5941 Nos. 5958 and 5917 No. 5955 No, 5931

White Stone or Pearls, Roman, Gold Filled. Heavy Solid Gold Plain or Engraved

Set in Silver, Roman 10 year, RP lront and Back, Solid Gold Front,
4301 gold sides and back, lin., $ .40 $ .30 Warranted 25 yrs. Lin., $.35
10 K. solid gold, $5.25. ........ 4, tus RIO ‘Ceperanes ee na OD BD 1% 1n., $..66 379 ily 986
ly a a AN ee ee gm x 8 6 Ls In., “vy 1% INl., AY 40 IM 1n., 253 24% Tis 99
ZOeCreu riled: < s: DBR ns ean eee 8% ; a @1ll., 99 2 in,, 79 50 2 in., 95 Solid Gold,
19 «+ 6 CREME ge es. “60 : 2%e1n., 1.12 2% in., 88 60 2144 in., 1.06 154 in., $1.85
d10,, 1.00 76 2i0., 1.65

CUT OUT THIS PACE

for reference

We have a complete line of
all the latest styles of Hat
Pins, Solid Gold, Gold Filled,
Signets and Fancy Patterns
bY H one
from 19¢. to $1.85. é
(Order a selection.)

No. 4051. 1 dozen, assorted as
shown, $1.85. Sterling Silver Tops,
warranted and stamped. (Average

price, IIc.)
Retail for 50c. each

110 10-year
Solid Gold. billed Filled

22in. 15in; 18im. 22in. 22 in.

gl ee le ae, an saroar hte Oram me a o . ‘ f . fh ome
Va Jase ke SHELLED DOTA y. 07. $3.45 $2.50 £2.00 £1.06 $.75
ey

1.85 1.20 1,08 0 60

We carry all styles of BEADS

Illustration shows small size No. 5; the

DBE TEI ID LLL LD ILE GLEE LE IL ELLIE LLL LIL LL N 0, 2

s
Z
6
iS
y
se
~I
ee |

largest size No. 14.

epee: 2788. 5:10 8,75 2.70 185 1.66

Gola Filled. 10 year, SETA LEAL, (LL DDI DED Sa LLY LPL ILEDELOLLSS SSSI No, 2729. 2.50 1.70 1.30 1.06 75

Solid Gold Stamped W. G. C, Gold-Plated

ee Ree v1.20 $ .60 No. 9828 °

Not. Bano "40 60 We carry the largest line of
No. 8. 6.00 1.5 6 » .

No.9 7.00 1,60 75 ' Combs in Chicago

No. 10, 7.50 1.70 ass i mi

era iD 10 | Shell, Amber and New Pearl Gray

PEARL BEADS j

Fine Cream, extra luster, 14 in.
Size 8, 90c. Size 14, 90c.

No. 9828. Rose and Green Colored Gold (Pearl Gray
Comb).
sack, $1.06. Side, per pair, $1.20,
No, 9811. 1/10 Filled Top,
sack, 99c. Sides, per pair, $1.80
No. 981114. R. P., like cut,
Set of 3. Back and Sides, complete, $1.35
No, 981174. R. P., but square ends.
Set of 8. Back and Sides, complete, 75c.

| mh

Dark Azure Blue, Finest Quality
Size 6, 10, 14 or graduate, 90c,
Regular Blue Beads, No. 6 to 14, 85c.

We carry a stock of all styles We have the new back 2-prong fancy tops,
Tac. to $1.12.
Regular back combs, fancy patterns, with
tai rose gold ornaments, 50c. to $1.20.
No, 9811 We only sell goods we can guarantee.

WHOLESALE JEWELERS

Galvin. Clauer COMpany, *~ any sverutes

151-153 Wabash Avenue, CHICAGO, ILL.

NOTICE-—If you know of anyone who is about to start into business, tell him of
CALVIN CLAUER CO., [51-153 Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.,
Wholesale Jewelers and Supplies

wey

Amber Beads, Amethyst Beads
Black Beads, Coral Beads

HFIP tp,

if hy emily yyy if
Wu ‘

\
i

RINGS RINGS ' RINGS~ RINGS

Our Ring business this season has been simply immense

The designs are up to date

The finish is perfect
Why ? The stones are all selected
> The Prices are right

They are Sellers

PURCHASE YOUR FALL STOCK OF RINGS NOW

Our salesmen will call or you can order from catalogue.

Our goods are all shipped direct from factory. They are fresh and clean and not shop-worn,
as is usually the case when selected from a salesman’s sample trunk. |

To our neighbors we extend a cordial invitation to call and inspect our office stock.

We assure you a hearty welcome and courteous treatment, whether you wish to buy or not.

M. J. AVERB ECK, Manufacturer, Nineteen Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

RINGS RINGS RINGS -~- RINGS

ONE DOZEN

THE SECRET

Or your “SUCCESS” is lareely due
to the * Character” and * Constancy” of your
REPAIR TRADE.

This, in turn, is governed by the kind of

MAINSPRINGS you use.

If you wish to enjoy this distinction, you cannot afford
to be without either our *GOLDEN” coiled or *RECOILING ” Guaranteed.

The STAN DARD for 20 years

*“RECOILING” Guaranteed, $15.00 gross, $1.25 dozen.

HHHTIEAHIT A HHI Wnt TN mess

sm _<e CT AAA

AMER! CAN
WATCHES,

Greuy p\vung Yullay weovuranted’eo

L C R * GOLDEN” $12.00 gross, $1.00 dozen

o> MAIL ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED

CED
REL oe H. S. MEISKEY COMPANY

LANCASTER, PA.

RHODE ISLAND RING CO., INC.

No. 103 SABIN STREET

Dro Sewn Gd. cole ees:
mel Tbe ie

| Mr. Jeweler:

This month we send you a few more of our new

designs in Signets. These, and our Tiffany and

Wedding Rings carry our Twenty Years Guarantee and are

all made of Gold Shell, which we certify to be 14 K.

They imitate exactly Solid Gold, both in finish and

CED |
Aili

€ & ri

D. | Ces)
ad, | appearance, and stand the 14 K. test (stone and ACI} ee )

| —_ | Yours truly.

| | Le acl a G9 eee ge Ge.., Sie.
apK R Rug

and in many cases more than three times their
former salary, is the verdict of young men who
have availed themselves of an opportunity to
take a course in the Horological Depart=
ment, Bradley Polytechnic Institute,
Peoria, Illinois.

It does not cost much to find out about

these things. You have been thinking of in- | ae Roe e: ee Pete - Bg x SX Ww s =< a
vestigating something of this kind for years, | “ye -
perhaps, why not send a postal to Horo=
logical, Peoria, Ill, and learn all about it.

It is a fact not generally known that one-

half the students entering this school have had

| previous experience more or less, and wish to
| improve their condition as a workman, and at

the same time swell their bank account.

HOROLOGY HALL

I E WW I ee DO | The Largest Building in the World Devoted Exclusively to a School of This Kind

1619

Green’s Electric Automatic Demagnetizer

(Patent applied for)

ALTERNATING AND DIRECT CURRENT

A perfect instrument “ Simple—Quick—Sure ”

Actual time to demagnetize a watch with this instrument 3 seconds. 12 watches
demagnetized in 36 seconds, which pays cost of machine.

Complete in Polished Solid Mahog- :
any, with flexible cord, socket, etc. pee S11 2 OO Net

‘**PFULL INSTRUCTIONS ACCOMPANY EACH INSTRUMENT ”’

RRA EF

One of the greatest necessities of a watchmaker’s outfit at the present time is a thoroughly reliable
Demagnetizer. l*very jeweler appreciates this necessity, because of the many watches which daily become
magnetized by close contact with Electrical Machinery, Street Car Motors, Dynamos, or other electrical
machinery, etc.

Any article containing iron or steel will become magnetized if placed in or near a magnetic field,
which magnetism may be taken from Motors, Dynamos, Electro or Permanent Magnets. When the
article magnetized is hardened to any degree it will retain a certain amount of magnetic flux, therefore
the parts of a watch which are made of steel beeome permanent magnets. Owing to the delicate
Mainsprings and Hairsprings being affected the watch on being magnetized becomes useless as a time-
keeper, and the only means to destroy the magnetism, and to bring the watch to its proper standard
once n ore, is to demagnetize the movement by employing the alternating current in so doing.

In che majority of cities and towns, direct current only is used for lighting and power purposes ; it is
therefore necessary to convert this into alternating current to the proper degree of strength to effectually
destroy this magnetism.

This new automatic Demagnetizer is placed on the market to supply a long-felt want in this direc-
tion, and is without doubt the most useful article of its kind manufactured. It not only transforms
direct-current into alternating-current, giving absolutely perfect pulsations, but it can also be used
on an alternating=-current circuit with the same equally satisfactory results. ans A

There are no wheels, pulleys, wiring attachments or mechanical parts to get out of order on this eee STR ao GRE cong pet
machine, and in this also it is entirely different to all other demagnetizers on the market. ; SOT ee eee escolar act FOR -

The design is neat, compact, attractive and ornamental. It is made of Solid Polished Mahogany, G HADEN ANE NORRIS
with nickel trimmings inside and out, the drum covered in solid leather and lined inside with water- —
tight leatheroid. All parts, both exterior and interior, are made from best materia) obtainable, the con-
nections permanently made and soldered, the wiring arranged inside of base, by which a short circuit
is not possible, and other important troubles are avoided. It may be used on any standard lighting
circuit by simply removing lamp from electric light socket and placing it in the socket on the top of
instrument; then attach the plug into the socket from which the lamp has been taken,

With ordinary usage and reasonable care this instrument will last indefinitely. If neither direct
nor alternating current is available, we can supply a specially wound instrument complete with dry
battery which will produce same results.

er ak

Wholesale trade supplied by

W. GREEN G CO., 6 Maiden Lane, New York, U.S.A.
HAMMEL, RIGLANDER & CoO., 47 Maiden Lane, New York, U.S.A.
HENRY ZIMMERN &G CO., 77 John Street, New York, U.S.A.
SUSSFELD, LORSCH & CO., 37 Maiden Lane, New York, U.S.A.

SPECIAL NOTE.—Order Demagnetizer from your jobber, but if for any reason they cannot or do not care to obtain it for you, write to us direct and
we will give your order and correspondence prompt attention. Yours truly, W. GREEN & CO.

Importers and Jobbers ( , MI ( ‘C) American Agents
23 @ & @

Watchmakers’ Tools and Genuine
Materials, Jewelers’ Supplies Queen City Material Company NEUCHATEL Mainsprings
and Findings, Paper and | =)=> ‘ y $1.00 per Dozen
Plush Boxes B U A L@. IN. e None Better

5 Mi. Mooney Building

Co.

fe . * e om ENG Ws WS . =” . e . . . e . ‘. . . 8 - o . . ENGON EY. a Nien Yow ia NE
17TH SUCCESSFUL YEAR

@he Jewelers’ School of Engraving

ESTABLISHED 1889 Suite 104 Heyworth Building, CHICAGO
RICHARD O. KANDLER, PROPRIETOR AND CHIEF INSTRUCTOR

BEST EQUIPPED SCHOOL S
OF ITS KIND UNE Ey ye pees ~~ Specimen Book of Monograms
BEST AND ORIGINAL and Lettering a, Fs ° : 75 cents

SYSTEM Spoon Bowl Engraving
rs Names, $2.00 up. Buildings, $4.50 up

SEND FOR HANDSOME Ua” sarge Artistic Monograms . 15 cents up

NEW CATALOG
RICHARD O. KANDLER
Founder of the CORRESPONDENCE eee

SOLICITED cae Der SA Studio: 1104, 42 Madison St.

Jewelers’ School of Engravi
1001 of Engraving noone

aS — &

i
eo)

B
\

: ZF &:
Pe.

by 7 :

‘POPPY ”» PATTERN, No. 1287
Mirror, 1014 inches in length

“ORIENTAL,” No, 1301
Mirror, 10 inches in length

**COLONIAL,”? No. 1318
Mirror, 10% inches in length

"The Winners for the Fall of 1905”

Just a few of our new patterns. Do not fail to see our line. [he most

complete line of sterling silver goods shown by any one house

SY SAY.
hits A ie
eye

MANUFACTURERS
» 726 Chestnut St., Philadelphia

( Newark, N. J.
( Philadelphia, Pa.

2a4™*

Factories

Prosperity Without Parallel ~
Reigns in the United States

And in prosperous times the Jeweler, more than any other merchant,
gets the full benefit

See to it that your stock 1s full and well selected, and the only way to do this is
to buy your goods from the house that has the goods. We occupy a unique position
in the jewelry trade. We are not only Manufacturers on a large scale of
Fine Diamond eee Emblem ‘pail and Gold Jewelry of every
description, but are also Manufacturers of Sterling Silver Goods, includ-
ing Sterling Silver Jewelry, Toilet Ware and Novelties; besides, we are
agents for the Figin, Waltham, Howard, New York Standard and United
States Watch Movements, Keystone, Crescent and Philadelphia Watch
Case Companies Cases, in Gold, Silver and Filled, and distributing agents for
the New England Watch Co.; besides, we are Importers of Diamonds and other
Precious and Semi-Precious Stones, and we carry, without doubt, the largest and most
complete stock of Diamond Jewelry, Gold and Plated Jewelry of every description,
Silver-Plated Ware, and have the most complete Watch Material and Tool
Department in the country. Our separate departments are in charge of experienced

men, so that your orders are filled promptly and carefully.

The only Jobbing House in the United States

running 2 factories, and where you can get everything

IE Write to us for our Special Bargain Sheets and for information regarding our
Special Order Work and Repair Department.

MANUFACTURERS
fj, 720 Chestnut St., Philadelphia

J Newark, N. J.

Factories" pn itadelphia, Pa.

1622

Every Customer Advertises You
If You Tie Your /¢“ <= Parcels With

Reis’ Advertising Tape

It is strongly woven and finished like silk ; made in many
bright color shades and different widths—from 1-16 to ¥ inch.
Saves time in packing, because it sets flat and snug around the
parcel and neither slips nor breaks in tying. The tape carries
your name and address plainly printed from four to ten times
every yard—providing a novel way of making EVERY CUS-
TOMER ADVERTISE YOUR BUSINESS. Hundreds of
successful jewelers use it.

Costs but a trifle more than string ; infinitely better.

WRITE FOR SAMPLES AND PRICES.

640 BROADWAY
NEW YORK CITY

> Department K
*x

The Improved “Ever Ready” Plato Clock

Guaranteed to be mechanically perfect and to keep accurate time

s a erie eit ed. Ses. - |
Makea most attractive imy, FVER : :
window displ \ Spec EY PROVED of Ra] ts Upper plates represent
indow display MRP SO ar

ee CSE LATEST iM the hour

7 Py Lower plates, the
“Watch the Time P
Ely” minutes

NO HANDS

An appropriate
NO DIAL

HOLLDAY
BIR TE DAY or
WEDDING GIFT

Wound, set and regu-

a
om \ VS
be .
+3 .
pe
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lated like any clock

No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4
$6.00 $6.50 $7.00 $8.00

This elegant display case given free with order for eight clocks, two of each design
eee OTC TOT CURE IOC eS a ee

ORDER NOW TO INSURE HOLIDAY DELIVERIES

For trade discount apply to your jobber or

American Electrical Novelty & Mfg. C0., 304 Hudson st., New York City

ee > —

Autumn-colored grape, maple, oak or holly vines.
Per dozen yards, 75c.,

274514.
; 274634.

. 2759.

. 2206.
. 2208.

. 2209.

Inches
Leaves High
Plants 5 36
Be 7 36
c 10 45

Palm Tree, Potted

Palm Tree, § feet high, 15 leaves.
Palm Tree, 12 feet high, 18 leaves.

Palm Tree, 14 feet high, 24 leaves.

VINES

Smilax, per dozen yards, 50c.

Clematis Vines, 4 flowers, 12 leaves ; per dozen yards,
$1.50.

Chrysanthemum Sprays
(Cut representing Flowery Spray)

No. 2145. Rose Bush

No. 2148. Rose Bush, 24 Re: : rm

, jae f No. 2539A. Jap. 12 inches long, per doz., $1.00

inches high, 3 roses and No. 2539. 1 * Rie BEE. (26 1.80

3 buds, each, $1.00; No. 25389D. 1s = SS . Sy 2.40
@ No. 25274% 1g: * es ea 6.00
11. No. 2527%. .

POZeny mht st) No. 2527. Py ee MIRE earth

The Chrysanthemum—the flower selected
Rose Sprays

for the Horse Show—gives a touch of aristocracy No. 2533.
Each Dozen and elegance, especially in displaying jewelry. No. 2532. Dozen roses, $1.50
S 49 $3.90 White and yellow are the most favored. No, 2533. 1.80
weg = 40 No 2534. ee i 3.00

1.00 9.00

Each, $3.00
Kach, $4.50

Each, $5.50

No. 2975B. Fall Grapevine Garland. (Cut representing two yards)
No, 2975B, 12 extra fine, large, fancy, autumn colored grape leaves, as red, brown and green
leaves, mixed in each yard; per dozen yards, 75c.

Ivy Vines, 18 leaves; per dozen yards, 80c.

Do not fail to ask for our new

Catalogue 1905, No. 20, just

Send for Catalogue No. 2, of 1905, just from press

from press. Free for the asking

304 Barclay Street, NEW YORK

FLAG PINS

ARE YOU SELLING FLAG PINS?

Many a jeweler is getting ready to make some extra money selling Bastian’s Flag Pins.
Are you going to let the opportunity go by?

Flag Pins, as illustrated, in Sterling Silver, $1.88 a dozen.
We have dies on hand for a great many school pins.
Write us, and if we have the die you wish in stock, you can order in any quantity. We will

make a special die for any School if the order amounts to $5.00 net.
25 cents each and you have our guarantee of satisfaction.

We create a demand for Bastian’s Flag and Class Pins by éxtensive magazine advertising.
We also make to order Badges, Medals and Buttons in Gold, Silver, Bronze or Ribbon. Special
designs and estimates free of charge. Send for our new catalog—it’s free.

BASTIAN BROS.., R, 21 South Ave., Rochester, N. Y.

These pins are rapid sellers at

rank Netschert Co.

No. 2707
Folding Garland

Autumn colors, as yellow,
red, green. Closed in a pack-
age 8x2 inches. Opened, it
extends 10 feet, for 30c. ; per
dozen Garlands, $3.00.

VOL. I

(FROM THE

CITY OF MEXICO

By Special and Extraordinar,
Overland Express ,

From New Orleans to Bal

and thence

TELEGRAPH

The Confirmation of

brought by they

Usceola to Pense

THE CAPTURE OF THE CAP}

MEXICO

TERRIBLE AND BLOODY CON

TREMENDOUS LOSS OF LIFE

THE FLIGHT OF SANTA ANNA TO")

GUADALOUPE

GEN, SCOTT’S ORDERS 10 THE ARMY

SS —

THE intellicence) .————————

received by
the special over-
land express last
evening is of the
greatest import
ance. We give it
in these columns
to the exclusion
of other matter of
less consequence.
The public will
read these tele-|
graphic details
and also those re-
ceived by the
mails, which we]
annex, with the
most intense in-|
terest.

Our thanks are
due to the tele-|
graphic operators
for their atten-
tion.
“Telegraphic

Despatch—No. x

Origaba,
Sept. 19, 1847.

I have the honor
toinform youthat
anexpressarrived |
here this evening]
from Mexico
which brings in-
telligence that
General Scott was
in the City of Mex-
ito, That on the

bee eS

HIGHLY IMPORTANT
INTELLIGENCE

canarmy ha

SEPTEMBE

R, 1847.

13th the American
troops took Che-
pultepec and the
Citadel and went
into the city that

night. General
Bravo wag killed
and santa

THE LEADING NEWSPAPER

done one hun-
dredth part of the
injury it had a
right to do and
which European
armies have done

under similar cir-
cumstances. We
Oo not see that

Anpg as

its way through
the fieldsand Fort
of Contreras. San
Antonio, Churu-
bosco, Molino del
Rey, Chepultepec
and the gates of

San Gastea and
Tacubaya to the
aetett oLof Mexico.

of New England, the

SPRINGFIELD REPUBLICAN

edited by Samuel Bowles, says :

A novelty in advertising is the “ Silver

Standard,”’

sritannia

Co.

published by
One side advertises the

the Meriden

company’s goods; the other has every
appearance of being a remarkably enter-
prising illustrated journal for August,

1847, giving

accounts of

events which

took place at that time, including the
issue of the first American postage stamps,
the drafting of a new treaty with New
Granada, giving the rights of the United
States on the Isthmus of Panama, and a

All fo
agree in
—that the

movement for the
heirs of Paul Jones.

Y ENTERING
Drawn by our artist from telegraphic descriptions.

settlement

with the

JEWELERS

THE

who have not seen this ‘‘remark-
ably enterprising illustrated jour-
nal’’ should write the publishers
at Meriden, Conn.

CiTY OF MEX

Che Silver Standard

ESTABLISHED IN 1847 BY ROGERS BROS.

G36

~-FILIBUSTERING!

EXCITEMENT
IN CUBA!

ew York
says that
-itement
rough-
rom re-
another
; e@xX-
m the
ates.
Finers
United
@wellas
om the
» were
itha
mremark-
en for
INum-
B police
raced on
fas soon as
arrived, and
ntained the
ictest surveilll.

- J = ‘\» bea
_..__ es 5am
>a
= = +
== (eee
a =
‘ y

| dollars.

S, SHIPS WATCHED,

RTEEN YOUNG
MEN

RESTED
SUSPICION.

anceof every body
and everything up
to the inoment of
departure. Four-
teen young men
of good con-
nec.ions were ar-
restedandthrown
into prison on
Friday, on sus-
picion of being
eonnected with
the revolutionary
arty.

By letters from
Havana, we are
apprised cf the
most cruel treat-
ment of all per-
sons suspected of
liberalism. The
chain gang is full
Sigh bias lh who
have dared to

'preathe of hope

for liberty, anda
large number of
young women,
particularly from
the inland towns,
are confined inthe
city prison, .be-
cause of singing
some air wedded
to republican
verse!

— —

NEWS FROM
THE
GOLD FIELDS.

Gold dust was
selling at San
Francisco on the
3rd ult., at $17 per
ounce, with the
freight, insurance
of 5 per cent., ex-
pense, making a
loss of 2 per cent.
on remittances. ,

Col. Fremont
hascompletedard
confirmed the sale
of his Mariposa
tract of gold Jand
in California to a
London company
for one million of

£98

A monthly journal devoted to the interests of the Watch, Jewelry and Optical Trades. The purpose and policy of this
journal are the protection and promotion of all trade interests.
all reading matter, and the exclusion of all that is not trustworthy or relevant.

eg:

A rigid censorship assures the reliability and worth of

We decline to insert advertisements

that are unreliable, or misleading in representation, defamatory in statement or detrimental to the welfare of the trade.

Vol. 26

THE KEYSTONE

A Monthly Journal Devoted to the Interests of the
Jewelry and Optical Trades

Subscription—One Dollar per year, postpaid, to ail parts
of the United States, Hawaii, Porto Rico, Philippines,
Guam, U. §, Island of Samoa, Cuba, Mexico and Canada
(except Newfoundland); single copies, regular issues,
15 cents: special issues, 25 cents. To Foreign Countries
10 Shillings (%2.44) per year; single copies,
1 Shilling (25 cents).

Payment for THE KEYSTONE, when sent by mail,
should be made by a Post-Office Money Order, Bank Check
or Draft, or an Express Money Order. When neither of
these can be procured, send the money in a Registered
Letter. All Remittances should be made payable
to THE KEYSTONE.

Change of Address—Subscribers desiring their address
changed, should give the old as well as the new address.
Advertisements— 4 dyertising rates furnished on application.
No advertisements but those of a reputable character will

be inserted.

To Advertisers—Copy for advertisements must reach us by
the 25th of each month to insure insertion in the issue of
the following month. Changes in advertisements should
reach us not later than the 18th of the previous month.

All communications should be addressed to

THE KEYSTONE
19TH & BROWN STREETS
PHILADELPHIA, PA.

CHICAGO OFFICE

42 MADISON STREET
LONDON OFFICE

45 HOLBORN VIADUCT, E.C.

index to Advertisers on page !791

CONTENTS PAGE
AMONG (CHIE SRR AD eeeeraro sess 6 oo Seater 1729
DECOBATILVN ABO IN -RIRANCE: 2. oe 1633-1656, 1641
FOOLISH PATENTS THAT ARE APPLIED FOR. . . 1727
GHMS (OF BEBOP ACRES (GQASE s gous ew « oe) Ulcer ie 1741
ITEMS OR INGRRESE Seer. «6 Sis ee ee ee 6 LI28%
LEPRERS SE ROM De MREAIDE Fic ee eel 1733
MEAS UBS) (RDN TE IIE): ©. eo. cn ees Wie ep ret tees 5 1721
MODPBRBN MPERGCEPANDESING:: © 25 1 24 5 Ge 2 eeu 1715
NEW GOODS. AND UINVENTIONS: ...... 1728 ce, 1728 e
NEW SUN=DDATE CASS os oe 5 6 uoc we go seh atte Rome) gts 1713
NEWS LETTERS:
COTGE OC GIeMee re oa) gh Se aiden Seep ucetaren cle 1649, 1651, 1658
CATENIN ATM er Ae ess a od ace Pages ras ol se MS Ges ce Se ayes
Cleveland and Northern Ohio. ..... AY nett ac Ea NA
Dallas and the Lone Stax State: a, 2 « cae «© © 1680
DSRLOLGE <inwise bt aS rere ee, Meuron ne? Gus dacue aes 1728 9
dba(ebeasthelhey ne ee a tenes eS) oO cf eee 1675, 1677
Kansas City and the Great Southwest. ....... 1679
New Bugland: “2. ses «6 Glee is 6) & te oe nee {671
New York pechy chee eet 1643, 1645 1647, 1656
INGwS ErOM-GHeANOLLOWESt 4, occ wea rie venue eran s 1728 k
Philatielphia: oss es ce © Ga yo “ape uot Seba Ras eee 1680
Pittsburs and “Vicinity «as ~ 2 6 ene ee 1667
Providence and Attleboro’ . = <.<u4 << + . 1665
SADR TAMCISCO) % is sack os b Soc, lela? Sane) a) hea 1669
St. Louis . Le Eee EE MS PE Senne. 1655
NOTES: ABOUT TRAVELING MEN .. .. . «>=: . 17449
OPTICAL DEPARTMENT:
ClimicsS MOPtOMethye amas = 6 a lane = bles 1751, 1753
Frame Fitting and Adjusting ...... 1771, 1775, 1777
Method of Measuring Latent Hypermetropia, A. . 1757
New Apparatus to Detect Malingering ....... 1773
New Apparatus for Photographing the Fundus. . . 1765
New Instrument to Shorten the Subjective Branch of
Refraction. <6 si. .on4 oS ee “SLE oe: 1761
Optical Questions and. Answers. J J28.......- 1755
Photographing Pictures ee ke i 1769
teviews of Ophthalmological Literature 1747, 1749, 17538
Tests and Studies of the Oeular Muscles. ..... 1759
What is the Most Expressive Title for a Refracting
Optician:?:. <a MM Sis esc ee 6 Sea
SAMPLE: ADVBBRBESBRVEENES <= 5s 6... « «> LD LES
SHOW WiINDOWawrLe . 2 o soe eee e fee ie
SUTAC TONG ROVE AR DIVER NG. 4 es ce Foe 1725

TECHNICAL DEPARTMENT:

ADGOEEMOTAVING «35 a & ss +o wee eee 4 EL 1693
Blectmenty for Jewelers. « i os Gos eee « 1697, 1701
Howato: Make'a Hall )Clock Case 3.64 =. «6. 1695
PIOSSONS INELOLOLOL YT: % veh a, & com eee eee 1689, 1691
Photographs on Watches, Cigarette Cases, Ete. . . . 1704
NVOERALOD INOLOS! 5 cease eras Gi es ne 1699, 1703
TWEEZER’S TALKS, JOHN 1S oe amp eeaeeae ae 1745
WHATSTO DO WITH SMALL SAVINGS. . - . is 4% 1737

Philadelphia, October, 1905

No. 10

Entered at the Philadelphia Post-office as second-class matter January 14, 1887

Holiday Number of THE KEYSTONE

HE November number of this journal

will be our annual Holiday Number,
with the customary extra attractiveness of
cover and contents. We anticipate, indeed,
that the forthcoming number will be the
most magnificent and valuable which we
have ever issued—an impressive reflex of
current conditions, in that it will symbolize in
external richness and internal worth the
flood-tide of prosperity which the country
and the trade are now enjoying. The special
cover design will be an accurate reproduction
in colors of an exquisite oil painting executed
to our order by an eminent artist, and beau-
tifully symbolic of the jewelry trade in its
most refined and poetic aspects. The con-
tents will be enriched by many special features
of seasonable interest to the trade, and an
unusual wealth of high-grade illustration.

In view of the extra value and beauty
of this issue, we would suggest that all whose
subscriptions expire this month renew at
once, so as not to miss this unique Holiday

Number.

New Serial * Electricity for Jewelers”

LECTRICITY is now used for such an

infinite variety of purposes, that a
knowledge of its properties and utilities is a
recognized part of a modern liberal educa-
tion. For the mechanic of the time, how-
ever, this knowledge is a necessity rather
than a mere accomplishment, and for the
jeweler in particular, the time has come when
a practical acquaintance with the working of
the mysterious fluid will have much to do
with the successful practice of his craft.
Already there are on the market myriad
electric machines for facilitating the work of
the jeweler and optician, and the number is
being increased almost daily. In view of
this, our readers will be gratified to know
that we are beginning in this issue the publi-
cation of a serial aptly entitled ‘‘ Electricity
for Jewelers.’ The various books on elec-
tricity, which treat the subject in an academic
and general way, call for more time for study

than the jeweler can afford. In the serial
the subject will be treated from the one stand-
point of practical value to the jeweler, who
will thus acquire the knowledge that serves
him with a minimum expenditure of time
and study. An installment of the serial will

appear in each issue till concluded.

Growing Audacity of Jewelry Thieves

N view of the growing audacity of the
thieves and swindlers who make jewelers
and jewelry stores their special prey, it 1s
opportune at this time to impress upon the
trade the necessity of extra watchiulness
and resourceful

against this mischievous

fraternity. Last month a new record was
made by the Eastern operators, when a num-
ber of robberies were committed within the
well-watched Maiden Lane district. A ‘‘dead
line’’ was supposed to exist around this dis-
trict which no robber could cross with impu-
nity, but the bolder spirits have shown their
contempt for this circle by several successful
robberies at its very center. In one case a
piece was cut out of the show window and seve-
ral hundred dollars’ worth of goods extracted
under the very nose, so to speak, of watch-
men and police. In another case, the bur-
elars simply opened the front door with a
key, locked it behind them and went about
their work in a leisurely fashion, operating
by the aid of the electric light on the corner.
They passed everything that was bulky and
decided that silver knives and forks would
do. They emptied a score of boxes of knives
and fotks, and when they had enough to load
a dress-suit case they departed and locked
the door behind them. That this should
happen within the well-watched precincts of
Maiden Lane, should be a sufficient warning

to the trade in less-guarded localities.

/e justice to the burglars, thieves and

window-smashing desperadoes, we are
compelled to say that the majority of the
thefts in jewelry stores are made possible by
the almost incredible guilelessness of the
storekeeper and culpable laxity in the pro-

1626

tection of his stock. One country jeweler
recently left several hundred dollars’ worth
of goods in his window over night to find
them gone next morning, and the Maiden
Lane jeweler did likewise. He ‘‘ intended
to remove them later,’’ of course, but the
burglar was more prompt and attended to
business in the interval. Almost daily we
hear of jewelers being victimized by plausible
swindlers, from whom they very considerately
accept bogus checks in payment for goods,
not infrequently giving a considerable amount
in change. This is a most inexplicable mani-
festation of mercantile imbecility. Need we
repeat that jewelers should never neglect to
put their goods, .or the most valuable part of
them, in the safe before leaving the store,
and they should never countenance payment
by check except in case of such customers
as are personally known to them.

In view of recent happenings, we must
also warn our readers to be extra watchful of
strangers who examine such goods as dlia-
monds, rings, etc., lest they be made victims
of the substitution game as has happened
very frequently in recent months. There 1s,
indeed, little excuse for being swindled by
such tricks as this. Ordinary care, a judicious
suspicion of strangers, and a fixed rule never
to allow your attention to be diverted from
the customer or the goods in the course of
the examination, will generally give sufficient
security.

A Novel Method of Advertising

HE strenuousness of modern business

competition, and the sometimes ridicu-
lous extremes to which the modern adver-
tising man will go, found a unique illustration
in a recent happening in Brooklyn. It isa
peculiarity of many business streets that one
side of the thoroughfare is patronized much
more by pedestrians than the other side, and
very often a store on one side is, for this
reason, much more valuable than a store on
the other. A Street,

Brooklyn, is one of the thoroughfares which

portion of Fulton
have this peculiarity, and the merchants of
the dull side started a co-operative movement
to attract the passing crowds to their side.
An advertisement appeared in the local
papers on the morning of September 18th
announcing that every morning of the week,
between 9 and 10 o'clock, a man would start
walking up and down the ‘‘ bargain side’ of
Fulton Street, as the merchants interested
have dubbed their location, and would con-
tinue to do so until between 4 and 5 P. M.
The man, it was announced, would carry a
pocket full of silver dollars, and at every
half hour and quarter hour, to the moment,
figured from the time he started, he would

turn around sharply and present one of the

A Ed SE

silver dollars to the person he found directly
behind him—man, woman or girl. No money
was to be given to boys.

All that the recipient of the money was
required to do in return for the money was
to give his or her address, so that the ‘‘bar-
gain man,’’ as the representative of the firms
was called, might be enabled to prove that
he had actually given away the money. In
the windows of the five leading stores was
displayed each day a list of the names and
addresses of those who received the dollars
distributed for the previous day.

This

chiefly remarkable for its spectacular charac-

novel method of advertising is

ter. As a means of spreading the fame of
the so-called bargain side of the street it
may have been temporarily successful, but it
is not the kind of advertising which would
have the endorsement of business ethics or
indeed of common sense. A preferable way
and the only permanently effective one to
enliven and popularize the dull side of the
street is by new store fronts, more attractive
windows, better light and thoroughly pro-
gressive business-doing.

The Patent Office a Paying Institution

T is but natural to suppose that the rapid
industrial development in this country
should stimulate unusual activity in the field
of invention, and the recently published re-
port of the Commissioner of Patents shows
that such is the case. We learn from this
interesting report that the twelve months
ended June 30th last were the banner year in
the history of the United States Post Office.
The report states :

There were received in the last fiscal year
52,323 applications for mechanical patents, 749 ap-
plications for designs, 174 applications for reissues,
1846 caveats, 11,298 applications for trade-marks,
1236 applications for labels and 448 applications for
prints. There were 30,266 patents granted, in-
cluding reissues and designs, and 1426 trademarks,
1028 labels and 345 prints were registered. The
number of patents that expired was 19,567. The
number of allowed applications which were by

operation of law forfeited for non-payment of the
final fees was 5154.

It is a gratifying fact, and an excep-
tional one in government departments, that
the Patent Office not only pays its way, but
makes a very substantial profit. The report
‘The total
receipts of the office were $1,737,334; the
total expenditures, $1,472,467, and the sur-

for the past fiscal year states :

plus of receipts over expenditures, being the
amount turned into the Treasury, was $264,-
667.’’ As there is no greater benefactor of
his country than the inventor, and as the
compulsory precaution of patenting should be
facilitated and cheapened as much as possible,
it is but natural to expect that the surplus

SEY Y S27 sOsINGEe

October, 1905

income of the Patent Office should be used
for the purposes of the office and not diverted
to general treasury needs.
tors are

As a rule, inven-
not overburdened with individual
wealth, and the extra amount paid in by
them, if used in perfecting the equipment of
the office, would, at least indirectly, revert
to its worthy source.

Floating Exposition of American
Manufactures

O* all the plans devised for the extension

of American trade in foreign countries
the most novel and, let us hope, the most
effective, is the floating exposition organized
by the Export Shipping Company of New
York City.

pleted for chartering a 500-foot, 8000 tons

Arrangements have been com-

The voyage of the American invasion,
or the American Floating Exposition as it
has been named, is to begin with the year
1906, and the itinerary includes stops at the
principal ports of Great Britain, Russia,
Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Hol-
land, Belgium, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy,
Austria, Greece, Turkey, Bulgaria, Egypt,
India, China, Japan, Australia, New Zeal-
and, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Uruguay, Brazil,
the Northern South American countries,
Central America and the West Indies, making
a sea voyage of about 60,000 miles.

HE ship is to be equipped with three
decks for the purpose of displaying
samples of what the United States has to sell
to her neighbors, and the space available for
the purpose 1s about 30,000 square feet.

On the first or shelter deck will be shown
samples of industrial art and novelties of all
kinds, such as small tools, hardware and
articles of small bulk. The second or upper
decks will be devoted to agricultural imple-
ments, vehicles, musical instruments and other
bulky articles, while the third deck will
contain machinery and heavy articles. On
this deck both steam and electric power will
be developed and supplied to the exhibitors
throughout the vessel so an actual working
sample of machine demonstrating its uses
can be shown,

The saloon deck will contain dining
rooms, smoking rooms, library and school
room, and the promenade deck has cabin
capacity for the two hundred representatives
who will accompany the exhibit for the pur-
pose of exploiting the goods on exhibition.

The enterprise is to be managed entirely
in the interests of the exhibitors, who share

the expense on a most economical scale.

October, 1905

The Flood-Tide of Prosperity

Te period of prediction is now over

and the country stands face to face with
the greatest opportunity in its history. The
crops are no longer at the mercy of the fickle
elements or destructive insects, and _ their
volume runs into figures that would stagger
belief if prediction had not made them so
familiar Once again corn is king, the total
yield being placed at 2,625,000,000 bushels,
which surpasses all previous records. The
wheat crop falls but a little short of the
largest previous yield, with an estimated
total of 685,000,000 bushels. This year’s
grain crop, as estimated on gov-
ernment data, compared with the
ascertained harvests of 1903 and
1904, is as follows:

1905. 1904.
Bushels. Bushels.

Corn® , 2,625,000,000 2,467,000,000

1903
Bushels.

2,224,000,000

Wheat 685,000,000 552,000,000 638,000,000
Oats 899,000,000 894,000,000 784,000,000
2ye | 27,000,000 27'000,000 29,000,000
Barley 130,000,000 139,000,000 — 132,000,000
Totals 4,366,000,000 4,079,000,000 3,827,000, 00

some idea of the

‘T2 conivey

immense volume of these
crops, many ingenious calculations
have been made. One statistician
has figured that to transport this
grain crop it would take 1,500,000
cars, which divided into trains
of fifty cars each would require
37,500 locomotives. These trains
would extend a distance of 12,286
miles, and would occupy four
tracks, extending from New York
to San Francisco. To hold the
corn crop alone, it is estimated,
would require trains 21,000 miles
in length. It is little wonder that
the railroads have placed orders
amounting to millions of dollars
for new equipment in locomotives,
cars and improved roadway. The Pennsyl-
vania Railroad alone has ordered no _ less
than 16,000 new freight cars for delivery
early next year, at an approximate cost of
about $16,000,000, and other railroads,
especially the Western roads, are said to be
doing even more in proportion.

UT it is when converted into dollars

that the billions of bushels impress us
most forcibly. We would then have $1, 312,-
500,000 for the corn crop at 50 cents a
bushel; $548,000,000 for the wheat crop at
80 cents a bushel; $233,740,000 for oats at
26 cents a bushel; $16,200,000 for rye at 60
cents a bushel, and $65,000,000 for barley at
50 cents a bushel, making a grand total of
$2,175,440,000.

This divided among the entire popula-
tion of the country would make a snug sum,
and yet it does not include the values of the

fe op ey =

FROM HARPER'S WEEKLY

minor farm produce in hay, vegetables, fruit,
poultry and animals. ‘There are also cotton,
tobacco, sugar cane, rice, hops and other
articles to swell the grand total of wealth for

the farmers.

UITE naturally
have infused life into every branch of
R. G. Dun & Co.’s latest weekly

‘‘Current trade shows a dis-

these immense crops

business.
review says :
tinct gain in comparison with the same time
last year; crop reports are reassuring and
evidences of continued activity are noted in
almost every department of industry. A
wholesome growth, without the threatening

danger of reckless inflation of prices, is a
commercial condition greatly to be desired,
and these elements are recorded in the ma-
Bradstreet’s informs

)

jority of dispatches.’
us that ‘‘the tenor of jobbing trade and
industrial
favorable than at any preceding period this

advices 1s more unanimously
year,’ and that the industrial activity is
unprecedented. ‘‘ Collections are unusually
good, money is easy and railway tonnage
very heavy. Labor is well employed, and
additional reports of a scarcity of help come
Similar re-
ports come from all other sources. The
iron industry, that great barometer of trade,
is having an unprecedented demand, and the

production will be the greatest ever recorded.

from widely-separated points.’

ANK clearings, which are a pretty accu-
rate measure of mercantile activity, tell
the same story of unusual prosperity. The

REYS TON &

COPYRIGHTED, 1905, BY HARPER & BROTHERS

Uncle Sam and his Best Girls

1627

August aggregate of bank clearings for the
United States reached the stupendous figure
of $10,838,989,760. This amount was never
approached by any previous August total,
and the reports from the first weeks in
September indicate a similar rate of increase
for the present month. For the week ending
September 21st, the bank clearings were
$2,514,652,749, which is 17 per cent. in
excess of the clearings for the same week of
last year.

Nearly every month of 1905 has shown
an increase over the corresponding period of
last year, and the total figures for the ninety
clearing-house cities of the United
States,from January Ist to the end
of August, were $92,298, 470,000,
against a total of $66,785,405, 243,
for the corresponding period of
1904. Business failures, too, indi-
cate the gradual strengthening of
the mercantile situation. The num-
ber of failures for the week ended
September 21st was 173, com-
pared with 203 for the same week
of last year.

All this is indicative of a record-
breaking holiday business for the
trade at large and suggests the
wisdom of early and liberal pur-
In view of the unusual
late-comers may find
jobbers’ stocks so picked and
depleted that there may be de-
Such an

chasing.
demand,

lay in filling orders.
exigency would be unpleasant for
the jobber who is desirous for
policy as well as for profit sake to
please every customer, while the
retailer would only have himself
to blame for the loss he would sus-
tain through lack of the goods.
Under conditions the

danger of over-buying is reduced to a mini-

present

mum, and it is wise to be on the safe side.

Patenting Articles in Japan
T is an interesting fact that the result of
the Russian-Japanese war has introduced
The

the European

a new factor in the matter of patents.
attention of America and
countries has been officially directed to the
importance of patenting their inventions in
Japan. It is pointed out that Europeans
generally are not fully alive to the importance
of patenting their inventions in Japan, one
reason being that most of their inventions
have not as yet much to do with the trade of
the far East. But inventors are warned that
if they still continue indifferent and omit to
patent their future inventions in Japan, they
will be necessarily deprived in the near future

of the privileges of Japanese patent law.

1628

THE GORHAM

TO THE JEWELRY TRADE

] The Gorham Mfg. Company beg toannounce that
they have moved to the New Gorham Building
at Fifth Avenue and Thirty-sixth Street, New York.

Advantage is taken of this opportunity to 1m-

press upon their friends in particular, and the
trade in general, their earnest desire that the New
Building may be regarded as the headquarters of
jewelers who may visit New York.

( Special accommodations have been reserved for

them and every facility is tendered to further
the transaction of their business, not only with our-
selves but, by appointment, with other houses.
Here their letters may be addressed and here
business appointments made.

GORHAM MF’G CO.

Silversmiths and Goldsmiths

: (G, Fifth Avenue and 36th Street, New York 7
BRANCHES

CHICAGO NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO LONDON
137 Wabash Ave. 23 Maiden Lane 120 Sutter St. Ely Place

WORKS: Providence an d New York

October, 1905

The Making of the Clerk or Salesman
A Word to Employers

T is too frequently the practice to let the
clerk make himself. If he is ambitious,
and possesses unusual natural ability, such a
course is probably best for the clerk, as it
affords opportunity for the exercise of his
own initiative ; but if he is of the quality of
the majority he needs guidance, so that he
will subsequently not have to confess, with

)

Topsy, that he ‘‘ just growed up.’’ He needs
the guidance for his own good ; but he likewise
needs the guidance for his employer's good.

Yet few clerks and salesmen get real
guidance, instruction, coaching, business edu-
cation, from the employer, but must acquire
knowledge entirely from observation and
imitation. Such indifference or shortsighted-
ness on the part of the employer is wasteful of
the opportunities which are at hand for increas-
ing the efficiency of his force and thus imme-
diately promoting the welfare of his business.

You are quite willing to spend time on
the preparation of your advertising matter,
but grudge the time given to showing the
salesman why and how ; yet your advertise-
ment speaks at long range while the salesman
must speak at close range ; and effectively,
if the advertisement is to show returns in
profits. The subsequent personal contact
must make the advertisement pay, else the
advertisement is wasted ; yet many employers
ignore that close attention to the schooling of
the hands which insures the efficiency of the
selling-end, after the publicity-end has brought
the people to the store.

‘‘Business’’ schools are all right, within
their limitations, but they cannot supply
just what you want for your store; tor
they cannot furnish that particular quality of
personality which is in yourself and which
should be reflected in some degree from those
youemploy. The ready-made clerk or sales-
man is not the best for you ; your make will
pay you best.

It takes time and trouble to ‘‘make’’ a
clerk ; but everything worth while takes
time and trouble. If you employed filty or
five hundred hands, individual instruction
would be too great an undertaking ; but the
average jeweler employs from one to five.
It should not be felt impossible to take a
single clerk in hand, day by day, for a brief
schooling ; to show the differences in qualities
of goods, the why and wherefore of your
preferences, the manner of meeting objections
and answering inquiries; to explain your
theories of salesmanship, and illustrate them ;
to quiz the clerk on how he would do in
such-and-such cases, and then improve his
ideas ; to encourage him to make suggestions
for the improvement of the service; to act

as his ‘‘ guide, philosopher and friend.”’

DT Ee

The result of such effort on your part to
‘“make’’ the clerk would be to add immedi-
ately and considerably to his value to you ;
and thus simply as an investment you would be
the gainer for the time spent upon his improve-
ment. Indeed it is most surprising that
while merchants will haggle for the ultimate
last penny in buying, or will be parsimonious
in their store economies,so many of them seem
to overlook the gains which would come to
them by increasing the efficiency of their sales-
men through careful and systematic teaching.
From the view-point of selfish self-interest,
the employer should ‘‘make’’ his clerk.

And from another quarter comes the
same call upon him. The employer of from
one to five clerks is charged with certain
moral responsibilities to them. He is a
trustee for their development while in his
employ. The old man of eighty who planted
a young fruit tree recognized his obligations
to the future. The employer has no defence
on the ground that ‘‘his efficient clerks gen-
erally leave him when they know all he can

) 4

teach. If they do, ¢hezrs is the responsi-
bility ; he must assume, instead, that they
wll ‘‘act squarely.’’ Without attempting
to divine the future, he must act up to his
full duties in the present ; and his duty is
clearly to do the best possible for those under
him, in the way of counsel and instruction.

And while they get, he will surely gain.

Transforming * Dull Monday”

HE merchants’ associations throughout
the country, which are now so popular,
are proving their usefulness in a great variety
of ways. For instance, Saturday, in most
towns and small cities, is usually a very busy
day, while on Monday business is correspond-
ingly dull. This was the case in Knoxville,
Tenn., and the local association decided to
adopt some measure whereby trading on the
two days might be more equally divided.
Accordingly they agreed to boom Monday as
a bargain day and each one advertised a
goodly list of bargains. The newspapers
lent their aid to the movement by devoting
considerable space to the plan and explaining
its advantages.
The result, as reported in the A/erchant’ s
Record, was highly satisfactory. The com-

bined announcements of the merchants
brought out a great crowd of shoppers and,
while Saturday’ s business did not suffer to
any great extent, Monday’s trading was be-
yond all precedent. The merchants are so
well pleased with the idea that ‘* Bargain
Monday ”’ will bea regular event in Knoxville,
and no doubt similar action will be taken by
the local merchants’ associations in other towns
and cities. To transform ‘‘dull Monday”

into a busy business day is well worth while.

NE YS TON &

1629

Improvements in Modern Store
Construction

T was our privilege a few days ago to

examine with some particularity the mag-
nificent new store now being erected by that
world-famed master of merchandising, John
Wanamaker. One of the things of interest
to the trade which particularly arrested our
attention in this new structure was the close-
ness of the window floors to the level of the
sidewalk. The distance between the window
and the ground does not seem to be more
than six or eight inches, and this, we were
told, is in accordance with the very latest
ideas in show-window construction. As six
inches seemed to us to be the limit which
good judgment would suggest, we were sur-
prised to learn that a large shoe manufacturer,
who has some forty stores in as many different
cities, recently gave instructions to have the
show-window floors lowered to the level of
the street. This seems to be rushing to the
other extreme, but jewelers who contemplate
reconstructing the front of their stores should
keep in mind the advisability of having the
window floors as low as possible. In this
age of hurry the window display should be
easily visible, and to this end should be
This

necessitates a low floor, high, window-filling

placed in the natural line of vision.
displays being no longer in order. In our
day the show window has attained such
importance as an advertising factor and sale-
maker that, architecturally, it merits more
attention than probably any part of the store.

NOTHER feature of the new store is
the greatly improved method of light-

ing. It has long been evident that, in the
case of the store as well as the window, the
ideal lighting system would be one in which
the lamps would be hidden from view. In
the new method this has been practically
attained, the much-desired effect being made
possible by ingenious improvements in the
arc lamps and the steel ceiling, or rather by
The
scientifically designed steel ceilings of latest
construction have a circular light-balancing

a combination of these improvements.

cove, in which the improved lamp is practi-
cally hidden from view. This cove, which
forms an ornamental part of the ceiling itself,
has other advantages besides the lamp con-
cealment. It results in a better and more
evenly distributed light and does away with
the annoying shadows thrown by the old
form of arc lamp. The excessive brilliancy
of the illumination below the lamps and in
the immediate vicinity is toned down to nor-
mal requirements, while the fainter light
between the lamps is increased to a percepti-
ble degree. This improved lighting system
is admirably adapted for use by the jeweler.

= _——=

Tree New Simmons Chain
Posterette

T is by far the handsomest window poster we’ve ever put out and tells most attrac-

tively a pretty story sure to appeal potently to all women and to all men who are
thinking of gifts for women.

In this miniature reproduction in cold black and white, there’s no hint of the
rich, harmonious warmth of tint shown in the posterette itself—which is 11% x 15
inches and mounted on a handsome tinted and pebbled mat.

It’s an ideal attraction for a jeweler’s window—striking, yet wholly refined
and artistic. If shown in your window, unquestionably it would draw all eyes—
not only to itself, but to whatever goods were displayed with it.

IT WILL BE SENT FREE—POSTAGE PAID—UPON YOUR REQUEST, SO
secure it without delay; better write at once.

R. F. Simmons Company
Main Office and Works, ATTLEBORO, MASS.

Salesrooms, 9-13 Maiden Lane, New York, and 103 State St., Chicago

October, 1905

Fighting a Sudden Blaze in the Store

N a recent issue we reported the almost

total destruction of a jewelry store by a
fire which started in broad daylight and in a
few moments gained such headway that the
single clerk in the store at the time was
unable to extinguish or control it. This
accidental conflagration affords food for
thought, now that we are on the threshold
of the holiday season, when the stock in the
store is exceptionally valuable, when the
long, dark evenings call for abundant illumin-
ation and when the inflammable materials
usually used in window displays are necessarily
in close proximity to many lights. Merchants,
as a rule, are all too negligent in this matter.
Some of those whose property is insured
seem to think that the insurance policy in the
safe makes the store fire-proof, and some
will tell you that there is not so much reason
for care as they have sufficient insurance to
cover any loss that may occur. But it must
be kept in mind that the loss in stock or in
the structure is not the only loss to be con-
sidered. It is a recognized and very serious
fact that a loss of trade invariably follows the
destruction of a store building and its con-
tents. This is mainly due, no doubt, to the
fact that customers find another store in the
interval of reconstruction.

WG these thoughts in mind, you
should ask yourself what would hap-
pen if a fire broke out in your store, or in
the rubbish of the cellar or in any other part
of. the building. We have still with us the
match-chewing mouse, the faulty insulation,
the explosive benzine and gasoline and numer-
ous other unlikely, but always possible, sources
of a blaze. Wecannot eliminate the sources
of fire, but we can do much to reduce the
possibilities of serious damage to a minimum.
In every store or workshop some form
of fire extinguisher should always be at hand,
and a pail of water is probably the cheapest
and most available of all. If a faulty insula-
tion should start a blaze in your Christmas
window, a pail of water at the moment will
be a much more effective property-saver than
the entire fire-brigade ten minutes later.
Tank extinguishers are another serviceable
invention in case of a sudden blaze, but, as
in the case of the pail of water, they are
rarely in their proper place when wanted.

A. more recent device which should be
conveniently placed in the store and window
is the dry compound extinguisher. We have,
from time to time, stated in our columns the
formula for this powder, but it can be more
cheaply purchased than made. These extin-
guishers have one good advantage in that
they occupy little space, being about two
inches in diameter and twenty-two in length.

T FE

Besides their small dimensions they have the
following qualifications to commend them :

They are effective. The powder in one tube
will do the work of several buckets of water, and
in much less time.

They can be operated by any one. A preco-
cious child could easily handle one of the tubes, if
necessary, and with telling effect.

They are always available and for instant use.
It is simply a case of ‘‘ yank and throw,”’ as a tube
weighs only three pounds.

The powder is absolutely harmless—except to
the fire. It will not injure the finest fabrics, but
will brush off as easily as ordinary dirt.

The expense is inconsiderable—one-fifth that
of the usual tank extinguishers.

The tubes are never out of order. The con-
tents can never freeze, cannot explode and will
not deteriorate.

In the fight with fire, science and inven-
tion are accomplishing much, and it behooves

the merchant to keep posted on the many new

contrivances.

A Cash Discount Calculation
MERCHANT, who was evidently awak-

ening to one of the fundamental factors
in successful merchandising, recently pro-
pounded the following very practical question
to our esteemed contemporary, Zhe Dry

Goods -cononitst :

What advantage, if any, has a merchant of lim-
ited means and of good credit, if he borrows $1000
from bank and pays interest at the rate of six per
cent. per annum and uses said money to pay his
bills, and also for anticipation at the rate of six per
cent. per annum, or fifty cents on each hundred
dollars ?

We have frequently answered this ques-
tion in its various forms, but the subject is
one of such importance at this purchasing
season that we can well afford to give space

to our contemporary’s very complete reply :

AOS AG to circumstances, there may

be an immense difference between inter-
est at six per cent. per annum and six per
cent. cash discount.

If a merchant borrows $1000 at six per
cent. per annum, he can have the use of the
sum for a whole year for $60, but by dis-
counting one bill amounting to $1000 at six
per cent. he could get $60 in one day. And
if the terms of the bill were: ‘‘ July rst, six
per cent., otherwise strictly net July 2d,”’
the $60 discount would be the equivalent of
interest at the rate of over two thousand per
cent. per annum.

A merchant certainly will gain in various
ways by discounting his bills, even if money
does cost him six per cent. per annum. There
is little doubt that merchants who discount,
especially those who ‘‘anticipate,’’ obtain
advantages in regard to prices, etc., which
are not enjoyed by merchants who do not
pursue this policy.

For example, wholesalers at times give
to favored merchants (those who discount,
etc.) exceptional ‘‘net’’ prices, perhaps far

BBYS TON &

1631

below what the usual discount prices might
be, knowing that such merchants will pay the
net bills when due ; whereas they hesitate to

)

net’’

give such prices to merchants who
are zof in the habit of discounting, lest such
merchants, though taking advantage of the
low net prices (thinking that, since it is ‘‘net’”’
there would apparently be no gain thereby),
may not pay the net bili when due.

Bu laying aside all such considerations,
there is no doubt that a merchant would
gain by borrowing money from a bank at six
per cent.

As an everyday example, let us take a
bill subject to the low discount of two per
Say it is dated July 1st. The terms
read, two per cent. ten days ; sixty days net
—which means that if the bill is paid on or
before July 11th, two per cent. may be
deducted—but that if the buyer waits until,
say, August 30th, he must pay the full
amount of the bill without discount.

Therefore, if he pays the bill on or
before July 11th—z. e., fifty days before
maturity—and deducts two per cent., he
earns an amount that, in this case, is equiva-
lent to rate of more than
fourteen per cent. per annum.

Let us take another bill, dated July rst,
Six per cent, ten

cent.

interest at the

with terms as follows :
days ; sixty days extra; four months net.
This bill is due net about six months after its
date, say December 30th ; but in this case
the merchant has three options.

Firstly, he may pay the bill on or before
July rith and deduct at least seven per cent.,
being six per cent. for ten days and per
In this case also

cent. extra for anticipation.
this is equivalent to interest at the rate of
more than fourteen per cent. per annum.

OS EN ae he may pay the bill seventy

days after its date, say September gth,
and deduct only six per cent. For paying
the bill almost four months before its maturity,
he gets six per cent., which, in this case, is
equivalent to interest at the rate of about
eighteen per cent. per annum.

Thirdly, he can wait till maturity and
not deduct any discount.

From the above example it seems plain
that the higher the discount—-and in many
cases bills are subject to more than six per
cent.—the greater will be the advantage of
the merchant if he borrows, as mentioned, and
discounts.

As to anticipation, if the allowance for
the period covered by the dating is at the
rate of only six per cent. per annum, then
the merchant will only come out even, except
in so far as the reputation for anticipating his
bills gives him an exceptional advantage.

1632

Waltham Watches

The issue is announced of the following
16 size movements

16 Size, 3/4 Plate, S. W. Movements
Pendant Setting

Hunting or Open-Face

—EEES

No. 625, Nickel

17 Jewels, Red Gilded Settings; Exposed Pallets;

Cut Expansion Balance; Patent breguet Hairspring,
Hardened and Tempered in Form; Patent Micro-
metric Regulator; Tempered Steel Safety Barrel;
Exposed Winding Wheels; Red Gilded Center
Wheel.

American Waltham Watch Co.
Waltham, Mass.

ecorative

CANCE

M. Remané

Throughout the industrial nations the decorative arts hold to-day a
position of importance which they have never before attained. In these arts,
it is too well known to need comment, France was the pioneer. From the
fifteenth century onward, beginning with Louis XI. of sinister memory,
sovereigns, prime ministers and, upon occasion, even royal favorites, set
their energies to found the enterprises which have contributed so largely to
the prolonged artistic and economic predominance of their country. But
fate, fortune, evolution—perhaps it were better to say. ultimate justice—does
not permit any one people to absorb, to the detriment of all others, that
degree of creative energy which is necessary to permanent supremacy.
Therefore, in accordance with this fixed law, we find that excellence in the
decorative arts is at present divided and diffused among a variety of nations
and races. Ours is an age of decentralization, and the tendency to diffusion,
favored by the rapidly multiplying means of communication and transport,
will strengthen with advancing time.

France, to argue even from the opinion of her most loyal and enlight-
ened children and admirers, will never again regain her old-time dictatorship
in the arts, major or minor. But we may compare her present, and her
probable future position with reference to competing nations, to the place
occupied in American educational interests by Harvard University, which
was long recognized as the paramount intellectual force of the new world,
raising up a constant succession
of great scholars to cope with
the constantly changing prob-
lems of science and of society.
This position, altered through
the gradual development of the
entire country and the conse-
quent multiplication of centers
of culture, still remains unique ;
for the past cannot be effaced,
and individuality is persistent.
Thus it is with France, and in
all that pertains to art her con-
temporaries must yet learn of
her. Her technical skill is un-
paralleled, her power of selec-
tion unique, and such is the
delicacy of her vision that it
recalls the refinement of the
ancient Greek.

For these reasons the
American artist, especially the
designer or the art-artisan, can-
not turn his thoughts in a more
profitable direction than to
study the work, the methods,
and the habits of his French
similar, as well as the condi-
tions by which the latter is
surrounded.

Gifted highly
Superiority of by Nature,
French Culture the French-

man is also
ereatly aided by inherited taste,
as by a capital upon which to
base his experiments ; further-
more, he lives in an atmosphere
from which he absorbs patience

M. leuillatre Vase; enamel and crystal

Ioy
Ireme Sargent

Necklace and Pendant

and constancy in labor. Finally, the economic situation prevailing in his
older country is well worthy of study, as presenting pitfalls to be avoided
and advantages to be sought in the new world.

The opportunity for such important and interesting research is best
offered in the yearly exhibitions, or sa/ovs, which are, as it were, landmarks
of art-evolution: showing, as they must, every indication of progress, of
arrested development, or of decline. But to understand and to interpret
such indications there are required a trained mind and an experienced eye,
such as are possessed only by those who are at once critics and artists.

This happy combination of judge and technician exists in the French
writer, M.Verneuil, well known in the United States, who, in the latest issues
of the Parisian review, A7¢ et Décoration, estimates, froma careful, impartial
survey of the exhibits made in the sa/ons of 1905, the actual state of the
decorative arts in France.

M. Verneuil’s historical notes upon the modern move-
Rapprochement of ment, his schemes for the co-operation of the designer
Art and Industry = with the manufacturer, his investigation of industrial

methods, his denunciation of false economy on the part
of the manufacturer, and of false pride on the part of the designer are too
valuable to be confined to expression in a single language. In short, his
admirable common sense demands that his summary of the situation in
France be given to the English-speaking public. And it would seem that
no more fitting place than these pages cuuld be chosen to contain this sum-
mary; since, ow-
ing to the influ-
ence of theschool
of Lalique, the
craft of the gold-
smith has risen
to the first rank
among the deco-
rative arts, or, to
speak more
truly, it has taken
its place beside
the exclusive fine
arts of painting
and sculpture.

The sum-
mary of M. Ver-
neuil, broad in
its scope and
references, might
be criticized by
one devoted to
some special
craft, as dealing
too largely with
generalities to be
of service to him;
but the error of
such a critic is
apparent in the
truth of the
axiom that what
is true of a class,
is also true of
any individual
belonging to that
class:, “Tro, ‘be

M, Bonvallet

Silver Cup

(1633)

T AH K EY S TT ON EG October, 1905

more explicit, we
may say that M.
Verneuil’s illu-
| stration of the
TF} cost of commer-
cializing a new
design may be carried, with small loss in its appli-
cation, from the textile art to that of the gold-
smith. And so we might continue indefinitely to
comment upon
the argument of
the able French
writer ; but it is
better that the
reader, until
now furnished
with bare sug-
gestions, be
placed in direct
communication
with M. Ver-
neuil, whowrites
as follows:
‘*Kach year,
the Salons at-
ford us the pre-
text to discuss
the state of de-
corative art, and to compute artistic pro
duction. For this reason, on the present
occasion, instead of occupying ourselves
at length with the objects exhibited, it
may be interesting to cast a more searching
glance than is usual upon the progress of
the modern decorative movement ; further-
more, because, perhaps, we are approaching
a turning of the
way which may
become danger-
ous, both for our
national decora-
tive art and for
our artists them-

Decorative Art
in France

M. Brandt

selves.
“The <t*¢-
generative im-
pulse in the de-
corative arts is
yet new in
France ; counting
among us but a
few years of life.
This impulse had
previously
awakened
among the En-
olish and the
Belgians. In
Eneland,
Morris, Walter
Crane, Burne-
Paper Knife: Horn and metal,
simulating a locust. Jones, and
M. René Lalique others had im-
parted to this
new art charac-
teristics which charmed the public and led it captive.
The Belgians succeeded, although less brilliantly,
through the pursuit of other methods.

“In France, the movement at first timid,
rapidly grew emphatic ; artists, fully understanding
the importance existing in this development, for
themselves as well as for art, devoted themselves
to the previously despised crafts. At the instance
of Cazin, the noted painter, a section was granted
to art industries in the expositions of the National
Society of Fine Arts ; the advancing public interest M. Brandt

in the section keeping pace with the rapidly
increasing number of exhibits. The Society of
French Artists was forced to follow the example
thus set, and a movement of considerable power
was instituted : one, it is necessary to remember,
which was created solely by artists. Such action
was certainly logical, since the artist is above all
else a creator. As a result of this movement,
ceramists were developed who still to-day charm
us; examples of
cabinet - making
were produced,
which gradually
gave us simple,
flexible forms re-
leased from the
current common-
place; goldsmith-
ing, owing to
Lalique, revived,
and resumed its old
importance among
the arts ; objects in
pewter and leather,
marquetry, enam-
els, and embroid-
eries added further
testimony to the
new spirit of the times by revealing charac-

Pendant

teristics of freshness and grace.
‘‘ As was inevitable, and especially at the
beginning of the movement, imperfections
were observable in the things produced.
Extremists threw themselves forward, who,
wishing to annihilate everything old and to
begin anew, compromised in the public mind
a movement which
although incipient,
was yet already in-
stinct with life and
strength. But that
was only an incident.
The greatest wrong
to the natural, logical
developments of the
decorative arts has
been effected
through the seizure,
the monopolization
of ‘the modern style’
by low - class pro-
ducers. What enor-
mities have been per-
petrated under cover
of this title! Pieces
of carved cabinet-
making, fantastic,
outrageous, the more
closely representing
‘the modern style’
in that they were
anpractical, repel- Paver knife: | om carve
lent, and annoying ! M. René Lalique
Paper wall-hangings
insipid in coloring,
tracked with crawling worm-like designs! Work
in other mediums distasteful to an equal degree !
‘“But what effort did the artists
Keeping Aloof make to correct this unfortunate
from the deviation of the movement?
Manufacturer Did they organize among them-
selves societies for production ?
Or, by allying themselves with manufacturers, did
they seek to ensure a logical production of their
work, based upon sound industrial principles? No.
Pendant Their action was quite to the contrary. Remaining

October, 1905

aloof and segregated, they appeared to
regard the questions which we have
indicated as beneath the proper level
of their consideration. Thus miscon-
ceiving their own dignity, and failing
to appreciate things of paramount
importance lying outside their own
sphere of thought and action, the
authors of the movement whose birth
was attended with such brilliant hopes,
see it to-day writhing in death-agony.

‘To create is good, without doubt.
But to create and to produce in the
industrial sense—that is, to multiply
one’s creations—is better. The artist
congeals, so to speak, his powers by
devoting himself to the slow elabora-
tion of single pieces, the price of which
is necessarily very high—although the
remuneration of the artist is nominal—
and for which purchasers are rarely
found. For this latter fact the artists
hold the public responsible, and unquestionably certain faults exist upon this
side of the question. But can we reproach the consumer for refusing to
purchase articles—for instance, chairs—of the artist-artisan, when he may
easily find excellent, although less unusual and recent, designs, at a much
lower price, by making selections from commercially produced objects?
We must admit that he must follow the latter course, and, consequently that
unless the modern movement shall consent to become izdustrialized, it will
die in infancy, or, it were better to say, it is still-born.

‘“ But we must hasten to add that the artists are not wholly
Wherein the responsible for this threatened danger. For, while they
Manufacturers may be criticized for their lack of practical sense, the
Erred manufacturers are also gravely in fault, even those who

produce honest and legitimate wares; all others being
excluded from the present considerations.

‘The faults of the latter
class may be summarized briefly.
First, they long ignored, upon
principle, the modern move-
ment. Their methods of pro-
duction were established upon
old designs which had been
tested and approved by the
public. They therefore saw no
reason why they should under-
take new things, and follow
untried courses. They resisted
as best they could, and their
opposition was vigorous.

‘It would be logical and
just that, in causing their new
models to be accepted and
adopted by the public, the manu-
facturers should pledge them-
selves to produce in all possible
perfection. But they are far
from acceding to such condi-
tions of justice.

‘Without taking into con-
sideration the long, laborious
study demanded by every work
which rises above the current
commonplace, manufacturers,
as a rule, under the pretext of
economy, purchase their models
from low-priced designers.
Their action in this respect will
be best understood by means of
information gained from mem-
bers of their own body.

‘*If we ask, for instance, the
cost of putting upon the market
a new design in textiles, we shall
receive for answer that heavy
expenditure is required to cover

M. Brandt

M. Gaillard

1635

Decorative Art
in France

the price of ‘ pointing,’ (enlarging the
original design upon paper ‘ pointed,’
or divided into minute spaces, each
representing a single knot of the fabric),
and of the cartoons used at the looms.
They thus estimate the price paid by
them for the first metre of cloth pro-
duced, at several thousand francs.
They plead, and with truth, that they
are forced to practice economy. But
they do not exercise judgment in
retrenching. Spending freely for the
‘pointing,’ and the cartoons, for every-
thing which makes for the realization
of the idea into material form, they
economize in the matter of the design :
the very thing upon which depends the success, or the failure of the new
model. To summarize their proceedings: they consent to risk a large sum
of money, and, at the beginning of their enterprise, under the pretext of
economy, they annihilate all chances of success.

‘“The question now arises as to the extent of the saving
thus made. This, upon examination, is found to be quite
insignificant. They might purchase the design of a good
artist for two, or three hundred francs ; while they choose, instead, to pay
eighty, or one hundred francs for a work of no merit. The resulting saving
thus reaches, at the most, two hundred francs in a total expenditure of five,
six, or ten thousand francs, made in placing upon the market a new design
in textiles. From these investigations it is plain that such small economies
are illogically and ignorantly devised.

‘“Having proceeded in the manner just described, the manufacturers
declare that modern art lies in a
hopeless condition. But they
are self-deceived ; for the new
movement will take root and
propagate in France. It is im-
possible for a people or a coun-
try willingly to sterilize itself:
the general evolution must be
followed, and the universal im-
pulse obeyed. England, Hol-
land, Belgium, Germany, Aus-
tria, Hungary and Italy are
advancing, and France must take
the direction indicated by them.

‘* But instead
Art Industries of a new
in Paris French art

rising from
our soil and developing as we
might expect it to do, it is ex-
otic art that will adapt itself to
our conditions. Already in
Paris the representatives of for-
eign art-industries multiply and
flourish. In cabinet-making we
have the houses of Waring and
Gillow, and Maple, whose heads
are Englishmen; Serrurier, who
is Belgian; and Amstelhock,,.
who is a Hollander. To repre-
sent the ceramic art, Copen-
hagen and Rozenburg have es-
tablished important dépéfs of
their wares; further, there are
the beautiful Liberty fabrics, the
practical Katzerzinn, and many
other industrial products distin-
guished for their zesthetic value.
From the fact of the existence
of these establishments there

3elt slide

False Economy

Bronze yases

1636 T Fe

Uy follows a result which appears illogical and
absurd: namely, that when Parisians wish
to purchase tasteful articles, they must select
English paper hangings and textile fabrics,

C] German pewter, Danish pottery, and so

acknowledge the excellence of foreign pro-
ducts in the very branches of industry which were so long controlled by

France throughout the markets of the world.

“If now we investigate the
causes of this unhappy result, we
shall find no lack of talent among
ourselves, but we must acknowledge
the absence of the practical sense.
The moment has now arrived when
the decorative artist must understand
that his work will remain sterile, if
he does not produce it commercially :
that is, in sufficient quantity, and in
such a way as to make it purchas-
able at reasonable prices. And the
manufacturer, on his part, must
understand that his efforts will be
fruitless, if he refuses to introduce
into his products that artistic quality
which is indispensable as the sign of
correspondence with the spirit of
the times.

‘In a word, the modern move-
ment so promising in its infancy,
will speedily perish, if artists and
manufacturers do not unite; each

Decorative Art
in France

side bringing into association its
peculiar gifts and qualities: on one
hand, creative talent; on the other
abundant material resources and the
facilities for marketing the things
produced. In such association both

/
%

contracting parties will find advan-
tage, but the time for forming this

Mae tare! “A. —-

union must not be delayed.
“Against such a

Individuality of consummiation,as

the Artist in every Other

similar case, ob-
jections may be urged. The ques-
tion of price is not the only one
which often divides artists and manu-
facturers. Beyond this, upon the artists’ side, there is also a legitimate
question of independence ana self-respect. The manufacturer follows the

M. René Lalique
Pendant: crystal and smail diamonds

invariable policy of absorbing and suppressing the personality of the artist.

The object, or article which we purchase is either anonymous, or else—and
very frequently—it bears the name of the manufacturer as that of its
creator.

‘*This fact witnesses injustice. The manufacturer is in reality a pub-
lisher, if we may extend the meaning of that term. If, in addition to his
primary function, he himself creates designs and models, he can legiti-
mately sign them, but in all other cases his signature is false. He should
leave to his fellow-laborers not only the honor, but also the responsibility
of their works. If we ask a manufacturer, of whom we wish to purchase
some product, the name of the designer of the desired object, he invariably
replies: ‘It is our own design.’ But this is not true. It was not created
by the firm. It owes its existence to X, or to Y, from whom the firm
bouzht it, and to whom the artistic profit, at least, should be left, in
default of any other. The manufacturer cannot derive any supplementary
profit from suppressing the name of the artist; while, on the other hand,
he sometimes defeats his own purposes of sale, since the public would be
often influenced by the name of the designer, if it were judiciously presented.
Thus, for instance, in England, the purchaser of wall-hangings is attracted
by the name of Walter Crane, or of Lewis Day, which heightens the value
of the design to which either of these signatures is attached.

‘¢ Again, if a book-publisher should declare himself the author of all the
works which he gives to the public, he would commit no more flagrant
injustice than is daily practiced by firms marketing the product of the
decorative arts. |

‘©The Biblical command regarding the rendering of Cesar’s dues has
to-day lost nothing of its strength, and its principle should be enforced in

kK BY S Tf O'N

M. Bouvet: Pendant: mistletoe motif, in pearls, opal, and enamel

October, 1905

the case of the artist-designer. Justice and recognition, granted him by the
manufacturer, can but encourage him to do his best, and to send out from
his workshop nothing except such works as he judges to be complete and
perfect.

‘“As a last word, we insist that our artists must join to their functions as
creators the practical qualities of merchants; that, in order to be really
successful, they must create, not only to satisfy their own desires and for
their own pleasure, but also with the view of selling their products. The
practical sense must be cultivated among our decorative artists ; for France
should satisfy her own esthetic needs, and we debase her singularly, both
in her own self-respect and in the eyes of foreigners, if we permit her to
acknowledge her inability to market her own works, as do the nations by
which she is surrounded. The moment when she shall evidence the
possession of the commercial sense which we have just discussed, will see
the beginning among us of a serious and important movement in the
decorative arts.”’

Having thus finished his argument, M. Verneuil proceeds to comment
specifically upon certain of the works exhibited in each of the Salons of the
current year. But as, in most instances, his notes merely record the progress,
or the retrogression of some well-known artist, as judged by his exhibits of
previous years, these comments have small value and interest for a public
other than that of Paris. For this reason, new comments have been attached
in this place to a portion of the illustrations which originally accompanied
M. Verneuil’s article, and these, properly, have been restricted to such as
reproduce specimens of the art of the jeweler and of the metalsmith ; while
others, equally interesting in themselves, have been rejected as irrelevant.

In making any reference to modern goldsmithing, we are
Pre-eminence naturally carried in thought toward the dominant person-
of Lalique ality of M. Lalique, whose works, as they successively
appear, never fail to
prove that his genius
is Subject to a constant
process of renewal,
like the productive
powers of Nature her-
self. With the mem-
ories of his flower,
insect, and animal
designs strong in our
minds, we approach
him to find that he
has developed new
qualities of the classi-
cist. His most recent
tendencies are shown
especially in the beau-
tiful corsage piece
(on page 1641) ; com-
posed of crystal and
diamonds. Upon
studying the design,
we observe that it Is
an old mofif treated
with a new force to
the degree that it
becomes unique and
original. We observe
later that, although
obviously a new de-
parture, it is closely
allied in outline with
previous examples of
the same artist : nota-
bly with his insect-
forms reaching out
long antenne@. Yet this resemblance does not detract from either the
originality, or the excellence of the work. Indeed, it is doubtful whether
what may be called the ‘‘ vase and growing plant sof” has ever been more
successfully treated, even by the artist who is said to have transformed the
acanthus, overflowing its containing basket, into the ornate Corinthian
capital. The vase striking the classic note is a swelling amphora, one of the
most pleasing of antique forms: equally by its shape and by its associations
affording a natural surface for the display of the exquisitely engraved Bacchic
figures. Further, the vase and the plant admirably supplement each other,
from the point of material, as well as from that of composition: the clear,
large crystal strongly accenting the center of the design; while the small

(Continued on page 1641)

1637

Spccial Announcement

For years the fall has found us unable to fill all
orders. At various times our output has been
increased by branch factories, but a new and much
larger plant now seems imperative. Pending its
construction and to get the very best results from
our present plant, we have moved our main
offices from New York to our factory at

) Poe ee

> —
one SES
Fag Ss * J
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ae ¥, ¢
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fe, ps .
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Meriden, where they will hereafter be iy ff
located. Our customers will therefore be ee ¥
good enough, after this date, to address eee
all communications and make ail remit= se
tances to Meriden, Conn. Odur former ofhces <4 9
in New York will be maintained as a salesroom *S 4

only for the convenience of out-of-town customers.

1905-06 Catalogue

TOASTING GOBLET, ‘* HENRY ”

SSS
=>
S
~
¢ >
S
S
=
i

Now Ready. Eighty pages of half-tone illustrations, full list price,
description and size under each article. Yours for the asking. Electrotypes
tor local advertising tree. Lorly pages of entirely new goods. Good profits
for the jeweler in every item. Quality, finish and character second to none.

Meridien, Conn.

New York Chicago Boston Baltimore
38 Murray St. Silversmiths’ Bldg. 146 Franklin St. 122 W. Baltimore St.

Manufacturers of

ESSE J. HOARE & Co.
Hl RICH CUT GLASSWARE

at Corning, N. Y.
7 ; ee poet > wee eae = }

ee Hs oN ae er ens cue" have for over a quarter of a century furnished the majority of Cut Glass for
Wee Tiffany & Co., Gorham Mfe. Co., and m: any others who seek only for the best
goods that can be procured. ‘The question is often asked, “Why are your
goods so popular ?”’ Simply because we make the best and are continually
turning out new shapes and designs. We do not sell at the lowest prices, but
all of our prices are reasonable. If you have not been fortunate enough to
secure our line, write us for a small selection. Do not write for a catalogue,
as it does not show the quality of our goods. ‘The catalogue is calculated to
cover up defects and deceive the customer. ‘The groceryman, blacksmith or
lawyer can get a photograph book of purchased or copied samples and send
out a salesman to show he is a ‘Cut Glass Manufacturer,” and by guessing
at the prices with the only idea of selling lower than any! ody else, can secure
some business and appare ently prospers for a period. But it is high time that
all merchants wake up to the fact that the cut glass business can be entirely
demoralized and trade ruined by cutting prices to such an extent that od,
first-class work cannot be produced. If you buy our glassware, you will be
‘more than pleased and you will hold your good trade.

‘Look through the world,
PR 'Tis ne’er met with elsewhere.”'
e y IK.

( pene ae Awe

a
€

No. 541 Vase. Baroness Rothschild

A line of glass that is a “¢good seller’? holds its position at the front
only by improving style and design and maintaining quality and good
value at low prices.

All this and more 1s claimed for the CLARK line.

TT, BeChARK SS CO., in, Honesdale, Pa

1639

Hawkes Cut Glass

GRAND PRIZE PARIS EXPOSITION

A jeweler is Known
by the stock he
keeps.

And if his stock of cut
glass bears the Hawkes trade-
mark (and it costs no more),
he knows he will not be put
into competition with the

department stores.

The Hawkes good name 1s built upon more than
twenty-five years of progress in the work of glass
manufacture.

Hawkes wares are always fashionable, always just
what they are represented, always unequaled.

T. G. Hawkes & Co.

Corning, N. Y.

No piece 1S genuine without this trade mark engraved on same

WAW KES.

Celebrated Cut Glass

Universally acknowledged to be the
most beautiful, brilliant and artistic line
on the market.

Distinctly in a class by iseli=——
our trade-mark (2 engraved on each
piece 1s a sure guarantee of its excellence

and quality.

Manufactured by

THE O. F. EGGINTON CO.
Incorporated Oct. II, 1899 Corning, N. Y.

A. New Creation im Cut Glass

and a seller, made in several shapes.

Send for our leaflet
showing an assortment
of standard goods at
eee prices that will be
profitable to you. =

if
°&

Our Photo. Catalog loaned to the
responsible trade

ICE CREAM or SALAD TRAY

NEWARK CUT GLASS CoO.

EE ’ CUT GLASS IS MADE soos sa
SEE HOW CUT GLASS | 60-62 Arlington St., Newark, NN, ts

Visit our Factory when in New York—
only a thirty-minute trip. Established 1808

fo. _ a el xn aa

1640a

STERLING SILVER

ICH AMERICAN CUT GLASS

AND SILVER PLATE

N these departments our Warerooms

contain an almost endless variety oT
patterns and values. The out-of-town

dealer will do well to call upon us on

a
ew

his arrival in the city and inspect what
Make

your headquarters with us, whether

we have in the lines covered.

A £ ee ewrerry ee gee Se Ey
> Ma © pie : A on rest 4 4
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you purchase Naicely Of "not _thiak ets

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your privilege and our wish—and we

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offer you the freedom of our New York

establishment.

- =
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to 8% .
cae ‘.
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; a = at a
eS % ; as

FACTORIES

WILCOX SILVER PLATE CO.

THE MERIDEN CUT GLASS CO.

THE BARBOUR SILVER CO. THE DERBY SILVER CO.

THE HOLMES & EDWARDS SILVER CO. THE MERIDEN SILVER PLATE CO.
MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO. THE WM. ROGERS MFG. CO.

1847 ROGERS BROS. THE ROGERS & HAMILTON CO.
ROGERS & BROTHER SIMPSON, HALL, MILLER & CO.

ROGERS, SMITH & CO. THE WATROUS MFG. CO.

INTERNATIONAL SILVER COMPANY

W arerooms
9=11=13=15 Maiden Lane, New York

GENERAL OFFICE, MERIDEN, CONN.

Tht CE
MONROE C0.

Manufacturers

ered Address all communications
4 1. at
Sd
ay to
ei
a ae
“ Factory

Meriden, Conn.

New York Salesrooms
28 Barclay St.

| No. 491-Nv. Kelva Jewel Box No. 831. Ariel Jug
| WAVE CREST CUT GLASS
' .
| has made us famous as manufacturers of most strik- excelling in beauty of finish and design. An immense
| | ing novelties. assortment of novelties innumerable.
{ ; F 2. Ut 6. ; ee Z >
the proper thing. Richly gold mounted. A distinc Originality combining every feature of this line of
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| tive style of artistic merit that has made it a winner. coods.

Our new catalogue will show all our latest productions. If you want one mailed you, kindly advise

When in New York, by all means stop at our store, ground floor, 28 Barclay Street

The Pairpoint Corporation

New Bedford, Mass.

Superior Silver-Plated Photograph Books

Ware
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Electroliers, Gas Portables, Oil Lamps

loaned to the trade for
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Our No. 383 TEA WARE
Design Patented

BRANCHES

38 Murray Street, New York City
120 Sutter Street, San Francisco, Cal.
Temple Building, Montreal, P. O

f // fs
ee OE re GN A
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Artistic

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Deep
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upas

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At Lewis and Clark Exposition

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Price, $5000

igh).

(5 ft

PORTLAND PUNCH SET

SoS
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Naught can their bonds e’er sever.
A source of joy ’twill always be,

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WRITE FOR OUR PROPOSITION

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A Word to the Wise is
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We GUARANTEE our goods
superior to all others.

Wf hs
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Decorations are new, origi-
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designed especially for fine
jewelry trade.

Unfortunately our salesmen
were unable, this season, to
visit all the smaller cities. To
towns not visited we will con-
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assortment which has created
so much interest. Be the first
to order and secure the exclu-
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finest line of hand-painted china
on the market. Contains only
the BEST SELLERS. Twenty
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In fruit and flowers. Can ship
immediately upon receipt of
order.

e . Wy be Re u
~* PRY + « ees By ‘
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SRY
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You will have sufficient time
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our goods and order again for

your holiday trade.
ONE OF OUR 007 VARIETIES Our record is unprecedented.

Not a single complaint
from a customer the
entire year.

LOUIS HINSBERGER ———
300 OAKLAND STREET Ss | Ghe J.H STOUFFER.CO.

AR ep racy eae INCORPORATED 1902
BROOKLYN, N. Y. 3000 LAKE PARK AVENUE

HARRY T. BRODEN, Rep. CH I one; ‘@)

RINNER-WELLS CO. Chi.

‘* October’s child is born for woe,
And life’s vicissitudes shall know ;

‘But lay an opal on her breast,

And hope shall lull those woes to rest.”’

ND many a girl has
felt herself lucky
when receiving one of the
handsome opal brooches
of tings we sell. Luck ts
a matter of opinion. Many
of our customers say “We
have great luck with your
but for ourselves
think

goods,”
the
to the
careful selections of pat-
terns, the style, the finish,
the
price, all of which help to
make our ‘** Good
Sellers.’’

If you come to New
York lef us show you—or

we prefer to

success was due

workmanship, and

lines

we send selection pack-
ages on request.

Henry Freund & Bro.

Diamonds, Watches and
Jewelry

9 Maiden Lane, New York

Elk goods a specialty

E have had a good
many customers call
on us of late, and they all
sald with one accord,
“New York is the Place.”
So we think, tt 1s) the
market place of the
Western Hemisphere, and
we are fully alive to
everything that goes on
in the “Jewelry World”
and are therefore in a
position to supply your
wants efficiently and
rapidly. ~ Special Orders ~
are one of our specialties.
There is nothing in the
line of Diamonds, Watches
or Gold Jewelry which we
do not carry or cannot ob-
tain. We have many cus-
tomers to whom the
thought comes. naturally
“Anything Special, write
to Freund’s.” We would
like to add your name to
the number. Try us once
and be convinced.

Henry Freund & Bro.

«¢ Sellers of Sellers. 7

9 Maiden Lane, New York

Elk goods a specialty

No. 8-97. Sugar and Cream.
French Gray

T his
didly just now.

class of goods is selling splen-

Our variety of designs 1s extensive.

Our French Gray finish 1s the peer
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Get our Catalogue 7

Co.

Cincinnati, Olhio

Makers of Fime Plated

Im Hi)

—

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—— — 4
ffl

No. 15-36. Baking Dish. $10.00 List
Burnished or French Gray

1640 f,

COMPARING to
SILVER.

@ Believing that every dollar spent on maga-
zine advertising means larger sales for the
dealer, we are this year getting out the most
Striking series of silverware advertisements

which has ever appeared.

@ The list of magazines in which we advertise
is one of the Strongest in the world. Its enor
mous aggregate circulation brings “ Community
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readers.

@ j< he extraordinary sale of “Community
Silver” following our fall advertisements last
year—in many cases lasting far beyond the
holidays—is practical evidence of the tremen-

dous selling power of such advertising.

@. By ordering “Community Silver” now you
can secure the full benefit of all our fall adver-
tisements, and thus increase the sales of your
store in a profit-making line.

@_ kkemember that your profit on “Community
Silver” is unusually large, and stock now. In-

quire of your jobber or write us.

ONEIDA COMMUNITY, Lrp.
ONEIDA, NVY.

lounded in 1848

New York Salesroom: 395 Broadway

1640 2

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THE INTAGLIO

STERLING
TOILET WARE

PATTERN No. 140

A new and beautiful pattern in
Sterling Silver, just completed, and
now ready in the full line.

Designed to meet the require-
ments of the best trade at a mod-
erate price.

Already the largest-selling pat-

MIRROR

, » »
MIRROR BACK VIEW

FRONT VIEW

tern yet produced by us.

Orders should be placed
promptly to insure early delivery
for the Wedding and Holiday
Seasons.

Prices furnished to the Jewelry
Trade upon request.

HALE SIZE
HALF SIZE

REED & Barton

Silpersmiths
Factories, Taunton, Mass.

TRADE MARK

K
7 oe
yas Ky ( I > |
fi \
Cem 7 AN LS

STERLING

Established 1824 NO GOODS SOLD TO We make also many other

designs in both Sterling and
High-Grade Silver Plate.

Chicago Sales Office
103 State Street
San Francisco Sales Office
115 Kearny Street

DEPARTMENT STORES

Reed & Barton Productions Bear a Distinct, Artistic Fineness, and their Absolute Reliability Enables the Jeweler to Unquestionably Warrant Them

Bri NSN IN ry >

“oh ee Ren a

Grand Prize
st. Louis, l9O4

Be sure to see the many
new ideas in our fall line
of cut glass before placing
your orders.

©) ua k er © 1 if ms (Cut (; la SS sells ) i ; ; 4 " f ; ‘ = es Y SS :

all OV ET the WO rid. One of the greatest sellers ever produced. Why?
Because price is right and quality first-class.
Made in all sizes.

Quaker City Cut Glass Co.

Factory, Goth @ Baltimore Avenue, Philadelphia

October, 1905 it ba JE

(Continued from page 1636 )

diamonds, studding the eucalyptus leaves, fall away, like
bouquets of sparks dying in the air. At the first glance,
the casual observer might judge this jewel to be lacking
in the peculiar boldness characteristic of Lalique; but if,
in this case, the bare theme has been not infrequently
used in various arts, the treatment is here intensely
original, and the very signature of the artist stands in the
masterly lines of the interlacing leaves. A final beauty
is added to the ornament by the chaste whiteness of the
crystal and of the diamonds, delicately appropriate to the
composition based upon a Greek motif. Altogether, this
piece is a blending of historical learning, of genius in
design, of skilful handling of material, such as render it
of rare distinction even among the works of the greatest
goldsmith of modern times.

An afterthought—much less happy—of the corsage
piece exists in the pendant illustrated on page 1636, showing a variation of
the same design and a use of similar materials. But its presence detracts
much from the first ornament, as a plain sister detracts from a beauty by
revealing ugly possibilities of family features. The vase and the eucalyptus
plant are used without that ‘‘art which conceals art,’’ and after the manner
of a commonplace designer, left to work out a problem with given substances
and forms. The crystal is
here obviously a weight to
hold the pendant in its proper
place ; the curved leaves are
nothing more than the claws
of the setting; while the
symmetry of the design is
almost aggravating : the one
point of welcome irregularity
occurring in the leaf which
curls through the loop,
although even that is plainly
a device for filling an other-
wise too great void in the
composition.

Two minor pieces by the
same artist, shown on page
1634, are paper - knives, of
which one, in translucent
horn, is carved with wheat
ears, the design lending itself
naturally to the necessary
shape of the blade, and the
rich color of the material
adding sug’gestiveness to the object ; while the other, a combination of horn
and metal, simulates a locust with folded wings. This little work is really a
masterpiece, rendering the insect in all its sinister individuality, and revealing,
as by a flash, the unique ability of the artist to interpret life, whether under
animal, or plant form.

3etween the virile genius of Lalique and the feminine talents of such
goldsmiths as Charles Boutet de Monvel, Remané, and Bouvet, there lies a
great difference, which is appreciated especially by the wearers of jewels,
the majority of whom prefer the latter more conventional artists.

Of these three the noticeable qualities are delicacy of design and excel-
lent workmanship. We observe also that all of them show the modern
French tendency to reject the historical styles. In the examples of their
work here illustrated, the eye receives keen pleasure from the beautiful
arrangement of precious stones and pearls offering fine color and sheen ;
nor is it wearied by too familiar designs: the pendant of M. Bouvet being
attractive by its clever rendering of a mistletoe mofif in miniature ; the neck-
lace of M. Remané showing much historical knowledge of goldsmithing,
together with ability in the use of purely conventional forms ; while M. Boutet
de Monvel’s jeweled collar is the work of an accomplished art-student, which,
as a drawing liable to be neglected because of its delicacy, reveals, upon
close examination, an admirably treated, remote and obscured flower mo/i/,
based probably upon the Greek honeysuckle.

From these artists the transition is again abrupt to a designer like
M. Brandt, speci-
mens of whose
work are shown
in several pen-
dants and_ buc-
kles. Without
positive knowl-

M. Brandt

M. René Lalique

Charles Boutet de Monvel

K BE ¥Y-S TO N EB 1641

edge of his training, it is
safe to place him as a
student of the School of
the Louvre, if we may
judge from his outlining
forms, his love for large
voids, for certain linear combinations, and for floral
treatments. In all these points he resembles the more
widely known M. Marcel Bing, although he is clearly the
stronger and more skilful draughtsman of the two. It
would appear also that he is attracted by certain designers
of the modern Munich school of ornament, among whom
are Oppenheimer aad Friedrich Dunn, although their
pencils are much less facile and pliant than his own.

Once more turning to another class of artists, we find
certain ones among them so enamored of metalsmithing
and of Nature, that they have, this year, almost abandoned the making of
personal ornaments, in order more fully to satisfy their desires. From this
class we select three individuals for illustration.

The first, M. Feuillatre, who will be remembered from his exhibits of
jewels at Turin in 1902, and his use there shown of av¢ xouveau combinations
of female heads and insect-wings in translucent enamels, now produces a
charming vase, in crystal and
enamel, composed upon his
favorite butterfly theme. The
motif is admirably devel-
oped; the insect being far
removed from realism, al-
though it retains its distin-
guishing characteristics, ac-
cording to the proper em-
ployment of natural forms in
design. The chaste, tapering
lines of the butterfly wings
in their long extension, con-
trast exquisitely with the
softly swelling Greek contour
of the crystal jar, for which
the metal serves as a frame ;
while the repetition of the
markings of the wings in the
enamel bands traversing the
triangular spaces at the neck
of the vase, offers a very
pleasing artistic device.

The second artist, M.
Gaillard, of no lower reputation than M. Feuillatre, is represented by two
bronze vases which present simpler problems of form than are usually
wrought out by French designers. But the distinction given to the handles
of the one, and the beautiful bulb-outline of the other prevent poverty of
drawing. A further interest is lent to the objects by the fine patina, or surface
treatment of the bronze, and, in the instance of the bottle-like vase, by the
long-horned insect clinging to the metal stem, as in Nature, he might explore
the length of a twig. |
The work of the third designer, M. Bonvallet, of our final
group, is a silver cup of rare beauty. Raised upon a high
standard, it recalls in its relative proportions of stem and
bowl the chalices of the Middle Ages. But its outline is
simpler than is found in the majority of those pieces of metalsmithing, and
the ornament is here made an integral part of the design. Thus, the stem is
built from the scales of a cone, between which the elongated drops of resin
are introduced, in order to break the monotony of a simple moZ7f, while the
plaited foliage and the cones forming the decoration in relief of the bowl, are
necessary to complete and enrich the composition. The moff here seen is
as old as the gods of Greece, and, like them, it is gifted with perennial youth.
The pine-cone, used in antiquity to give flavor to wine, became, for this
reason the symbol of Bacchus. Then, its decorative qualities having been
acknowledged, it persisted in art, independently of its symbolism. To-day it is
greatly favored by the new French school, and its most notable recent employ-
ment occurs in the
iron-work and the
low relief sculp-
tures of M. Lali-
que’s_ residence
on the Cours-la-
Reine, Paris.

Decorative Art
in France

Belt slide

Corsage ornament: crystal and small diamonds

A Beautiful
Silver Cup

Jeweled Collar

REGISTERED

Made by special machinery producing a seamless ring of
absolutely uniform shape, and from gold, guaranteed to assay as
well or better than stamped, the Wheeler rings afford the very
best value for the money. In shape and finish they embody the
newest ideas and the finest workmanship.

Every ring guaranteed by the registered trade-mark stamped in it

Prices and Ring Blanks on request

TRADE-MARK

HAYDEN W. WHEELER G&G CO.

RING MAKERS

TWO MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK

Highest Quality
of Finish and Workmanship

Our line gives your customers
satisfaction and you increase
your trade by handling it.
Ask for catalogue.

The Corning Cut Glass Co.

Corning, N. Y.
New York Office, 24 Murray Street Chicago Office, Republic Bldg., Room 1216

We have no connection with Corning Glass Works and do not use their blanks

No. 133. 3-pt. Jug, “ Roman”
PG A ou Ia \( |
BEAUTIFUL and
We do not use the figured blank. Our designs
are cut on smooth or plain blanks, thereby securing a

better finish than can otherwise be obtained.

Write for prices and we will surprise you.

KELLY @ STEINMAN

Honesdale, Pa.

)
{

— —_

New York Letter

August proved an exception
to the long series of record-
breaking months in the vol-
ume of pearl and precious-
stone imports, the figures for that month being
$2,275,873.59, Or $53,632.37 less than those for the
same month of 1903, so far the highest month on
record. They were greater, however, by $254,-
578.17 than the total for August, 1904, an increase
over that period being recorded in both cut and un-
cut varieties. On the other hand, the decrease
from August, 1903, was confined to imports of cut
stones, as there was an increase of $71,797.04 in
the uncut kind. On the whole, however, the im-
ports for the recent month of August reached a
comparatively high standard, so that the slight
shrinkage from those of the same month of 1903
can In no way be regarded as indicating an appre-
ciable falling off in general demand. The returns
of Gen. G. W. Mindil, jewelry examiner at the
public stores, show that for the month of August
of the past four years the classified imports are as
follows :

Diamond Imports
for August

Aug. Cut. Uneut. Total.
1905. . . . $1,815,718.61 $460,154.98 $2,275,873.59
1904 . 1,632,937.48 388,357.94 2,021,295.42
1903. . 1,905,995.19 377,653.02 2,288,648.21
1902. . . . 2,124,078.42 205,427.54 2,329,505.96
The Board of General Ap-
Hat Pins praisers recently rendered a

and the Tariff decision regarding the classifica-
tion under the tariff act of orna-
mental hat pins and millinery articles, which will
be read with interest by importers. The board’s
finding disposes of a vast number of protests under
this head, but was evoked specifically by that of
Dieckerhoff, Raffloer & Co., who appealed from
the assessment of the collector of customs at New
York. In addition to certain ordinary glass-head
hat pins, belt pins and millinery ornaments which
by judicial determination are not jewelry, these pro-
tests related to the rate of duty assessable on orna-
mental hat pins composed entirely of base metal
made to imitate gold or silver or of such metal, set
with imitations of precious stones, upon which
duty was assessed by the collector at the rate of 60
per cent. ad valorem under Par. 434, and which
were Claimed to be dutiable at 45 per cent. ad valo-
rem under par. 112 or 193. The decision sustains
the collector in some particulars and reverses him
in others. It reads: ‘‘ Hat pins, unlike millinery
ornaments, are substantially constructed, and
although serving a useful as well as a decorative
purpose, they do not differ in this respect from
shirt studs, shirt buttons and watch chains, which,
under proper conditions, are typical articles of
jewelry. Nor does the common meaning of the
term ‘jewelry’ limit articles included thereunder
to those made of precious metals. On this point,
turning to accepted authorities, we find, among
other definitions, the following :

Century: ““Jewelry:—*" ~*~ 2 oe" SBerhn
jewelry, delicate trinkets of cas¢-zron introduced in
Prussia during the domination of Napoleon. The

= a ‘<
~

cc
RYU SNURTET RTH PACU ET FAA |

manufacture of such jewelry has continued to the
present time, and its products have been fashionable.

‘“*¢Temple Jewelry. — Jewelry of zzeapensive
material, made at the Temple in Paris.’

“‘Standard: ‘Jewelry.—* * * * Berlin
jewelry, personal ornaments made of iron, as at
Berlin.’

‘**« Electric Jewelry.—Articles of jewelry having
tiny incandescent lamps instead of gems, the lamps
being lighted by small storage batterles carried on
the person.’

‘‘ Electric jewelry is made of base metal set with
imitations of precious stones. See G. A. 5549 (T. D.
24935).””

The board found that the requirements neces-
sary to bring the disputed pins in question within
the term ‘‘ jewelry,” as defined by lexicographers,
viz., article of personal adornment, the handiwork
of a jeweler, was complied with.

Further the board found: ‘‘r. That such of
the hat, bonnet, or shawl pins as are made entirely
of metal in imitation of gold or silver, having
enameled or other ornamented heads, or of metal
set with imitations of precious stones faceted, or
set with pearl, ivory, paste or other materials, the
mountings ornamented with metal bands, scroll
work or other ornamental designs, are commonly
known as jewelry.

‘(> That the hat, shawl, belt, toilet or lace
pins with black heads, faceted or otherwise, or
with so-called plain wax paste or glass heads of
various colors, intended to harmonize with the
drapery of the apparel to which attached, or with
heads imitating round and baroque pearls, all of
the foregoing, if not adorned with metal work, are
not commonly known as jewelry are similar to the
pins held by the Circuit Court of Appeals in the
case of the United States vs. Schiff (reported in T.D.
26492) to be dutiable at 45 per cent. ad valorem.

‘“3, That the millinery ornaments are similar
to those passed upon by the Circuit Court of Appeals
in the Schiff case (supra).

‘‘Based upon these findings and upon the
authority of the decision of the United States Circuit
Court in Bader vs. United States (116 Fed. Rep.,
541), wherein Judge Cox held that ornamental pins
similar to those now on appeal were commonly
known as jewelry, and of the decision of the Circuit
Court of Appeals in the Schiff case (supra), we
overrule the protests and affirm the collector’s
decision relating to the first class of goods, and
sustain the importer’s contention that the mer-
chandise included in Classes 2 and 3, respectively,
is dutiable at 45 per cent. ad valorem under Par.
112 or 193 of the present tariff act. To this extent
the collector’s decision is reversed in each case.”’
Mary Drennan, her nephew
Michael J. Ryan, and a pawn-
broker, named Morris Lipp-
man, are involved, according to the daily press, in
thefts from the pawnshop of A. J. Heany & Co.,
214 Atlantic Avenue, amounting in the aggregate,
it is said, to $15,000. The female member of the
trio was employed as a scrubwoman in the estab-
lishment, and she and Ryan lived at the same ad-
dress in Congress Street, Brooklyn. Recently a

(1643)

Stealing by Proxy

A Sese

VW
HAs
nity
+ “4,

man called at the Heany establishment to redeem
a ring worth $350. When it was not found after
some search, an investigation was started, and the
firm learned that goods valued at $15,000 were.
missing. The police authorities immediately went
to work on the case, and learned from the Drennan
woman that Ryan had told her to take advantage
of being near the open safe each morning and steal
one or more of the little packets that were within
sight. She did this, she says, turning over the
booty each night to her nephew. She says she got
only about $25 from Ryan for what she did. Ryan
was traced trom her home to Loch Sheldrake, a
summer resort, where he was sojourning with a
female friend. He is said to have told the police
that he had disposed of some of the stuff that his
aunt had taken for him to Morris Lippman, a
pawnbroker, and the latter was also arrested. A
$1500 brooch had been sold for $300 and the $350
ring went for $80. In the Butler Street police
court, Brooklyn, Mrs. Drennan was held in $3000
bail to await the action of the grand jury, and
Ryan was held in the same amount. Lippman,
who denied that he had any knowledge of the fact
that the goods were stolen, was held in $1500 bail.
A window of George W. Shieb-
ler & Co.’s silverware store at
5 Maiden broken
about midnight on Thursday,
September 7th, and silver valued at $450 was
stolen. In this store, as in many others in the
block, it is the cusom to leave bulky articles, such
as larger pieces of silverware, in the show windows
overnight. In fact, few of the jewelers would
have hesitated much to leave jewels exposed to
view, for there are five night watchmen employed
especially to guard property on the block between
sroadway and Nassau Street, and they have the
help of a policeman whose beat is from Broadway
to Pearl Street. The block is only about 350 feet
long. The Shiebler store adjoins that of W. R.
Phelps & Co., dealers in diamonds and watches at
3 Maiden Lane. There are two large pillars in the
front of the Phelps shop, and the entrance is back
from the street. A window ten inches wide in
the Shiebler store fronts upon the alcove. It is
partly shielded from view by one of the pillars.
At the bottom of this window a strip of glass
eight inches wide and a foot long had been cut,
evidntly by a diamond. It had then been driven
in, the noise being deadened by that made by
workmen doing street repairing in Broadway.
Using probably a hook attached to a stick, the
burglar had then fished in the window and ab-
stracted without trouble the pieces it contained.
The pieces taken, it is said, consisted of cups and
saucers, teapots and finger bowls. Besides these
there were three pieces of a colonial service. The
silverware was displayed on silk and plush mounts,
which the thieves pulled toward the window.
Policeman Degenhardt, who went on the beat at
midnight, thinks that the robbery was committed
between that time and 12.15, while he was toward
the Pearl Street end of nis beat. The watchmen are
inclined to accept this time as correct. The burglars
have not been apprehended at this writing.

Midnight Silver

Robbery Lane was

(Continued on page 1645)

a eee ta ——— ——————— eee

Good Jeweler

will, of course, make good to a purchaser who has purchased a

ra) a | Diamond, which has been misrepresented, however innocent the
CHART For THE
GRADING OF DIAMONDS

Blue white and perfect : ; . et Dabs Ui ey Uae sees oe Sas a 4S aR = ay oy cdo’
Blue cubits aud very slightly dinpertect compel him to stand by his bargain. Still, it is humiliating and hurts

commercially perfect . ° BS neil aha ae bee
. Blue white and slightly imperfect your business 1f you make such mistakes.
. Blue white and imperfect .

misrepresentation. If a man has bought an imperfect stone under

the impression that it 1s a perfect stone, no jeweler can afford to

Extra white and perfect y . . : $ >
Extra white and very slightly imperfect, Why not buy Diamonds of us, where their grading is guar
commercially perfect ‘ ve ;
. Extra white and slightly imperfect anteed by our guarantee certificate, and where you can get a large
. Extra white and imperfect / < / o S

Whiteaad werrect assortment of beautiful stones bought at cash prices and sold at
White and very slightly imperfect, : ‘al c “eac] ~?
commercially pertect Special CONCESSIONS !
White and slightly imperfect
. White and imperfect

Commercial white and perfect | We can suit you in any size or quality. ‘Try us with your
Commercial white and very slightly imperfect, : ; : ‘
commercially perfect Next sale.

Commercial white and slightly imperfect
. Commercial white and imperfect

a HENRY GINNEL & COMPANY
| : DIAMONDS and WATCHES
Established 1835 31 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

oo ON Oa we Be bo

Copyrighted, July, 1904, by S. C. Scott

WRITE FOR ILLUSTRATED SHEETS
OF *’ REAL COPPER” AND “SigicAss
AND METAL”

APOLLO SILVER Co.

BERNARD RICE’S SONS

PROPRIETORS

MAKERS OF

FINE SILVER-PLATED WARE
REAL COPPER AND VERD ANTIQUE

542 BroaDWAY

WE: ILLUSTRATE A FEW PIECES OF OUR

“GREEN COPPER?” (,.2.. NEW YORK

MADE IN THE “APOLLO STUDIOS,” oF GREEN OPALESCENT GLASS 4-6 MARION ST.)
“Te r say. a . if y > 1Z
COVERED WITH METAL IN VERD ANTIQUE FINISH FACTORY ( 487-189 ELM ST. s NEW YORK

A DESIRABLE LINE FOR YOUR HOLIDAY TRADE

October, 1905

New York Letter

(Continued from page 1643)

Tiffany & Co. are now located
in their palatial new home, at
Fifth avenue and Thirty-seventh
Street. The building, as shown
in our illustration, is modeled after the celebrated
Palazzo Grimani, of Venice, designed by the
famous architect, San Michele. Crowning Murray
Hill, the shining facades of marble occupy one of
the finest sites in the city. The Fifth Avenue front
is 117 feet long; that on Thirty-seventh Street,
152. The building is a noble example of the
second period of early Venetian
architecture. The shell of the
entire building is fireproof, be-
ing constructed of marble, iron
and terra cotta. Although exter-
nally the building gives one the
impression of but three stories,
it is internally subdivided into
seven stories, basement and cel-
lar. The color scheme of the
principal floor has been studied
and excuted by an artist who has
not only produced beautifully
harmonizing tones and values in
all the effects, but has thoroughly
understood the possibilities of
the materials employed. The
result has been that the interior
is without question the most
beautiful commercial interior in
our country. The portion of the
second floor facing Fifth Avenue,
devoted to the exhibition of
bronzes, is subdivided by col-
umns of the Pompeiian Ionic
character. The president’s room
and the board room are both
executed in mahogany. The re-
mainder of the second floor is
devoted to the counting rooms,
correspondence and mail-order
departments. The larger part of
the third floor is given over to
the pottery and glass depart-
ments. On this floor are also
the registry offices and order
departments. On the fourth floor
are the library, heraldic, design-
ing, engraving and photographic departments ;
also the watch shop. The fifth floor has the gold-
smiths’ shops and the diamond-cutting and polish-
ing departments. The sixth floor contains the
clock, case goods and leather workshops, store-
rooms, etc. The seventh, or top floor, did not
exist on the original plans. The architect, finding
how much available room remained, decided to
vault up under the outer iron framing, and so
constructed a magnificent hall of 15,000 square
feet. The safe deposit vaults and storage for
valuables are in the sub-basement. One tie binds,
architecturally, Tiffany & Co.’s old building to the
new, for the old Herculean Atlas, supporting a
clock, still stands in front of the building.

Attorney-General Mayer has
brought an action against the
Preferred Mercantile Company,
of New York, to procure a judg-
ment vacating its charter and annulling its existence,
on the ground that it has abused its powers and
forfeited its charter, incidentally mulcting custom-
ers out of thousands of dollars, The press reports

New Store of
Tiffany of Co.

Diamond Club
Annulled

Tt ioe

of the matter state that the corporation was organ-
ized in June last. The business of the corporation
consisted in issuing contracts, under the terms of
which the holders thereof agreed to pay $1 a week
for 110 weeks, when the contract was deemed
mature. Of this sum the corporation was to retain
20 cents as an expense fund and carry to the
redemption fund 80 cents. The company agreed
to redeem these matured contracts in the order of
their seniority by delivering to the holder thereof a
diamond of the commercial value of $200, or, at
the option of the holder, to redeem by payment of
$160. The fraudulent character of the contract is
apparent from the fact that when ¢11o had been
paid in $22 constituted its expense fund and $88

Lf
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RED RETR PDB TD

The Palatial New Store of Tiffany & Co.

was carried to the redemption fund, so that every
time the company redeemed a contract paying $160
it suffered a loss of $72. Occasionally a contract
would be redeemed, but the other holders had no
means of knowing whether it was redeemed in the
order of its seniority or not. The corporation was
driven out of the State of Missouri in 1903. The
proprietors immediately organized another corpor
ation under the name of the Preferred Mercantile
Company of Boston, with its home office 1n Boston.
The government forbade this corporation the use
of the mails, whereupon it did its business by
express. The attorney-general of Massachusetts
brought an action last year to annul the corpora-
tion and forfeit its franchises. This action was
successful and the officers of the corporation in
that State were directed to transfer all its assets
to a receiver of the corporation appointed in that
action. The receiver was able to secure but $14.06.
The attorney-general of Massachusetts then began
proceedings to punish the officers for contempt,
and the president and secretary of the corporation
are now serving a year’s imprisonment in the

KS Ey Ss FF ON EB

MORALE IS ROS AE

1645

common jail of Suffolk County, Massachusetts.
Immediately after the dissolution of the corpora-
tion in Massachusetts, the same officers organized
in this State the Preferred Mercantile Company of
New York, and commenced issuing certificates
underwriting or taking over all contracts they
could secure issued by the Boston corporation.
Upon having his attention called to this corporation,
Attorney-General Mayer got into communication
with the attorney-general of Massachusetts and
brought proceedings for a dissolution of the corpora-
tion in this State. The papers were served on
Saturday, September 2d, and Robert Ten Eyck, of
New York City, was appointed receiver of the cor-
poration in this State.

Dr. Geo. F. Kunz,
gem expert of
Pitany & Co,
whose mineralogi-
cal lore has won him so much
recognition in the past, repre-
sented the United States, by
special appointment of the State
Department, at the International
Congress for the study of radi-
ology and ionization, held last
month at Liege, Belgium. Al-
most simultaneously Dr. Kunz
received from the United States
Government Board, Louisiana
Purchase Exposition, a_hand-
some diploma in acknowledg-
ment of his services and co-ope-
ration in the Interior Depart-
ment’s exhibit in radio-activity.

The partnership hitherto ex-
isting in the firm of Bent & Kohl,
diamond cutters and polishers,
16 John Street, has been dis-
solved, Daniel Kohl having
retired. Chas H. Bent, senior
partner, will continue the busi-
ness at the same address,

Louis Nordlinger, with L. &
M. Kahn & Co., diamond deal-
ers, 170 Broadway, has the sym-
pathy of his numerous friends on
the loss of his mother, who died
recently. The deceased lady had
been ailing for the past six
months,

Heineke & Co., is the name
of a new firm which has opened
at 48 W. Twenty-second Street, for the produc-
tion of artistic jewelry to special order for the
high-class trade. The members of the firm are
Alfred Heineke, hitherto designer for Wm. Scheer,
453 Fifth Avenue; Charles Appeldorn, formerly
with Tiffany & Co., and later with Wm. Scheer ;
and Hans Brassler, hitherto designer with Mc-
Teigue, Manz & Co., 31 West Thirty-first Street.

In the window ot a West Side pawnshop is
what appears to be a diamond ring. The pawn-
broker, with a creditable amount of humor and
truthfulness, has the following sign attached to it:
‘‘Almost a diamond. Price $3.50.”’

Scofield & De Wyngaert, the Newark, N. J.,
jewelry manufacturers, have issued a catalogue
and price-list, printed in green ink on enameled
paper and copiously illustrated with half-tones.
Save for the greeting and foreword on the first
page, there is no reading matter proper. The
goods are carefully listed, numbered and priced,
so that the book is valuable as a reference and an
aid to stock selection, especially at this time, when
all manner of new goods call for special attention,

Honors for
Dr. Kunz

(Continued on page 1647)

1646

. 7 {se
ae | ‘ az:
AREER ECE oro PRI AGREE ACR OO OR
Mes ‘
. pappr RE NRA PELE ARIA LI OT AT BORD. BE
rs Spi

THE STAMPING

of a Trade-Mark in our rings is as

important with us as the pattern or
finish. We know there can be no
question as to the quality or work-
manship, therefore we confidently stamp
each ring like above picture, thus
guaranteeing them to the Retail

Jeweler.

If you want rings for Man, Woman
or Child that you can honestly recom-
mend, buy rings with the above
Trade-Mark, for back of this Trade-
Mark stands over forty years of honest

manufacturing.

a, Larter & Sons

ay 21-23 Maiden Lane

years
Ring Makers NEW YORK

“THE” Machine for The
Tagging Rings, etc. | HOLD-ON
Complete ( Our Eyelet Machine, CLUTCH

Outfit 1000 Celluloid Tags
consists of | 1 Bottle Ink

Price complete,

$5.00 net

YOU slide the
Clutch on—

i } IT does the rest
LS
ee ae

ii
wi

Hand Plyers are
Useless for
Tagging Rings

Pat. May 20, ’02

A Splendid Seller
Retailing at 50c.

Scarf Pin Insurance
Pat. applied for

Ask your Jobber or write to

Hold-On Clutch Co., 33 Gold St., NEW YORK

10 K. SOLID GOLD LINK BUTTONS

356. $6.60 358. $6.60 352. $6.70 357. $6.70
The above buttons are set with nice, white, snappy diamonds, weighing 1/16 ct. per pair.
Without diamonds, $4.50 less for each pair.

862, $3.50 354. $3.50 360. $3.50 355. $3.67 361. $3.50
The above buttons are set with nice, white, snappy diamonds, weighing 1 32 ct. per pair.

Without diamonds, $2.25 less for each pair.

iO K. SOLID COLD LOCKETS

.
a

bus

311. $7.40 312. $6.50 307. $5.50
The above lockets are set with nice, white, snappy diamonds, weighing 1/32 ct. each.
Without diamond, $2.25 less for each locket. —

We manufacture a complete line of gold and diamond Jewelry and sell direct to the retail
trade by mail. ‘‘ Our gold always stands the test.’’

S. FRACKMAN, Manufacturing Jeweler

We are pleased to send selection packages 51-53 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

to responsible jewelers Write for our new fall catalogue

October, 1905

New York Letter

(Continued from page 1645)

The 1905-1906 tournament of
the Jewelers’ Bowling League,
of New York, was inaugurated
under happy auspices at Herman
Ehler’s Universal Bowling Academy, 271-277 Wash-
ington Street, Brooklyn, on Tuesday, Spetember
rath, and will continue, according to the schedule,
until March 23d, 1906. As will be remembered,
last season’s games proved a fruitful source of inter-
est and pleasure for numerous friends of the
participating clubs and patrons of the alley, and
provided a most beneficial relaxation for the stren-
uous votaries of the jewelry trade in the metropolis.
The manner in which interest in the successive
contests continued to grow and ripen, until the play-
ing of the final game, was likewise most gratifying
to the promoters of the pastime, and it goes with-
out saying, therefore, that the new series will be
followed with a pleasure no less keen and an
enthusiasm no less enduring. There are the same
number of competing teams this year as there
were last, namely, fifteen, but the withdrawal of
three of the teams, who figured in the 1904-1905
tourney, is responsible for the infusion of some new
blood into those now competing, to-wit, the repre-
sentatives, respectively, of Cross & Beguelin, and
N. H. White & Co., New York, and of A. A.
Webster & Co., Brooklyn. The participating clubs
represented are as follows: Aikin-Lambert Co.,
Avery & Brown, Cross & Beguelin, Dennison
Mtg. Co., Elgin National Watch Co., Joseph Fahys
& Co.,Gorham Mfg. Co., Julius King Optical Co.,
Alfred H. Smith & Co., Tiffany & Co., Udall &
Ballou, L. E. Waterman Co., A. A. Webster & Co.,
WN. H. White & Co:, CC. F. Wood & Co, The
officers of the league are: J. B. Wood, 1 Maiden
Lane, president; F. P. Seymour, 15 John Street,
vice-president; E. H. Dean, 19 Maiden Lane,
treasurer, and J. F. Schierloh, 21 Maiden Lane,
secretary. Mr. Dean is the only one of last sea-
son’s executive who continues in office. Appended
are the results of the initial games:

The Jewelers’
Bowling League

September 12th.—Cross & Beguelin, 690, 656,
752, vs. Gorham Mfg. Co., 561, 653, 616.
September 13th.—Dennison Mfg. Co., 732, 779,
ay, YsooN, Fi. White & Co... 775; 637; 772.
September r4th.—Tiffany & Co., 714, 784, 807,
Woy Aver, Smith dc Co:, 762, 782,. 750.
September r5th.—Aikin, Lambert & Co., 653,
669, 621, vs. Joseph Fahys & Co., 746, 697, 677.
September rg9th.—King Optical Co., 754, 723,
707, vs. L. E. Waterman & Co., 737, 774, 71:
September 20th.—Avery & Brown, 699, 670,
761, vs. Elgin National Watch Co., 679, 656, 611.
September 2r1st.—C. F. Wood & Co., 789,
796, 808, vs. A. A. Webster & Co., 623, 697, 742.
September 22d.—Udall & Ballou, 674, 663, 675,
vs. Cross & Beguelin, 772, 719, 721.
Following are the standings of the teams to
date :
Per High
Won. Lost. cent. score

COSE CooBRORGMH cd ufo & Gwe eth 1.000 772
C. F. Wood & Co. oe a eee ° 1.000 S08
AVOIY G2 DLOWNM sic cds oles Hee. S . 1.000 761
woseph: hanya & OOc... 6 «6 vd site = so : 1.000 746
ESTADO OP OM ex aM dade (ee lorcarigh re 2 1 667 807
Ne ls WER ee GOs sea be, fy eet oe way cae oe os 2 1 667 775
L. E. Waterman & Co. .... 2 1 .667 774
Ae Smith dc: Oo, 7 a & seas nes 1 2 330 792
Dennison Mfg. Co. . 1 2 333 779
Julius King Optical Co, 1 2 joe0 754
A. A. Webster & Co. . a: “ay Zee ee ‘ 3 742
Elgin National Watch Co. ...... 3 679
Udall & Ballou ya okey Weeeee Se : 3 675
BIRO, WAMDerG 60, ss ae owe SO Ne } 669
(FOLNAMOMIR, COs ¢ 5 2 ware ao , 3 53

The American Waltham Watch
Co. has been advised by W. H.
Tolman, director of the United
States section of social econ-
omy, at the Liege, Belgium, Exposition, that its

Medal for
Waltham Exhibit

gh Os Ue

exhibit of industrial betterment installed thereat,
has received the award of a gold medal from the
international jury in social economy.

Miss Hettie Oldden, for several years past
chief clerk for the Keller Jewelry Co., resigned her
position last month. We understand that she is
interested in a wedding ceremony that is to be
performed in the near future. Miss Morrison, who
has been connected with the company for several
years, takes Miss Oldden’s place.

Max J. Lissauer, senior member of the firm of
Lissauer & Co., of this city, recently returned from
a four-months’ trip to London and the continent.
Mr. Lissauer was accompanied by his wife, and
after a two-months’ stay in the diamond markets
of Amsterdam and Antwerp, the balance of the
time was spent at Carlsbad and other well-known
resorts. Mr. Lissauer reports that good stones are
rather scarce and high, but after considerable skir-
mishing around he fortunately secured a sufficient
quantity for his needs, at reasonable rates. Most
of the stock was bought in the rough, and then cut

KEYS TONE

specially to his order to suit this market.

The Frank Netschert Co., manufacturers of
artificial flowers and grasses, supplied the arti-
ficial flowers and grasses that were used to decorate
the floats of the Coney Island Mardi Gras, which

lasted for several days.

The regular monthly meeting of

Jewelers’

the executive committee of the

Security Alliance Jewelers’ Security Alliance was

held on Friday, September 8th,
the following members being present: Chairman
Butts, President Sloan, Vice-Presidents Wood and
Champenois, Treasurer Karsch, Secretary Noyes
and Messrs. Alford, Bowden and Stern, of the

committee.
admitted :

J. C. Ertel, Indianapolis, Ind.

Jacob Garber, Philadelphia,
Pa.

Krauss & Secttor, Indianapo-
lis, Ind.

L. C. Pedersen,Walnut, Iowa.

C. A. Radde, Cleveland, Ohio.

Jos. L. Schopp, Cincinnati,
Ohio.

Wilson Bros. Co.,
Mass.

Eckart Jewelry and Mfg. Co.,
New Iberia, La.

Yorteson Jewly Co., Sawyer,
Wis.

C. W. Goodwin,
Conn.

The Leonard Jewelry Co.
Kinsley, Kans,

Gus. F. Rose,
Ohio.

New York Silver Co.
York City.

M. H. Richardson, San Fran-
cisco, Cal.

Geo. W. Reichard, Cleveland,
Ohio.

Boston.

Milford,

Cleveland,

; New

TReineman Bros., Allegheny,

¥. P. Robey, Danville, Ill.

N. Rosenthal & Co., Hart-
ford, Coun.

ESDBDUEY & Nellis, Newark,
IN. J.

Frank Schario, Danville, IIT.

L. E. Schario, Danville, Il.

Witt & Shork, Genoa, Ill.

Burns & Gosser, Coshocton,
Ohio.

O. F. Erieson & Co., Pitts-
field, Ill.

FoR: raMDert, Philadelphia,

L. ae & Son, Providence,
%,

pearl Ue Kahn, Washington,
Dee.

W. C. Pfaeffle, Enid, Okla-
homa Ter.

Geo. Rickman, Kalamazoo,
Mich.

Saks Optical Co., Washing-
ton, D. C.

H.J.Sevy, Battle Creek, Mich.

Wm. #F. Burkhardt, Dayton,
Ohio.

PD. C. Griswold, Clinton, Wis.

Kleiner & Hein, Chicago, Il.

kr. A. McIntire, Chicago, Il.

J. T, Stalford, Athens, Pa.

(Continued

The following new members were

M. S. Fleishman Co., Chi-
cago, Ill.

Walter C. Dean, Ardmore,
Ind, Ter.

William J. Miller, Baltimore,
Md.

William Preuer, Cincinnati,
Ohio.

E. Strassburger, Chicago, II].

Chas. H. Allen, Turtle Creek,
Pa,

Bair Bros., Harrisburg, Ill.

Carl V. Bergstrom,Chicago, Il.

J.N. Comegys, Ash Grove, Mo.

R. W. Edwards, Oakland, Cal.

Geo. Fake, Oakland, Cal.

Chas. A. Joneson, Chieago,Tl.

J. N. Kunkel, New Rockford,
N. Dak.

Frank E, Lister, Carnegie, Pa.

The Little Long Co., Char-
lotte, N. C.

v, W. Otto, Crawfordsville,
Ind.

Henry Rhein, Chicago, Ill.

I. Schwartz, Chicago, Ill.

Thos. H. Smedley & Son,
Camden, N. J.

Thompson-BrannonCo., Ashe-
ville, N. C.

Claude M. Wall, Gallipolis,
Ohio.

S. Wechter & Co.,Chicago, I.

Millard F. Wood, Lowell, Mass.

Nathan Traut, Yonkers, N.Y.

A. Thalhofer & Son, Chicago,
Il.

David Samuels, Jersey Shore,
Pa.

Milton Reed, Doylestown, Pa.

Wm. F. Mueller Jewly Co.,
St. Louis, Mo.

G. A. Camp, Chicago, Il.

F. S. Shepard, Clarence, Mo.

Krebs Bros., Hartley, Iowa,

Ike Samuels, Sayre, Pa.

Burnett Bros., Seattle, Wash.

Capo-Hohusen Jewelry Co.,
Tueson, Ariz.

Allen H. Wentz, Baltimore,
Md.

V. E. Blake, Fort Collins,
Colo.

Owen-Cotter Jewly Co.,
Tampa, Fla.

Vanderbilt & Donnelly, Win-
sted, Conn.

Burtiss & O’Connor,. Utica,
1s 4

J.E, Homrighous, Tuscola, Il.

on pago 1656)

Don’t
you feel the
need of an

Invi-
gorator ?

Our

showrooms
are filled

with new

Stimulants

In the shape of
DIAMOND-SET
Gold and Filled
BROOCHES

Hat Pins, Scarf Pins

LINKS

Fobs, Rings

CROSSES

Chains, Charms

BRACELETS
14 K.—COMBS— Io K.

Silver and Ebony Toilet
Articles

Silver and Gun Metal
Novelties

Fifteen
New York

Maiden Lane

1647

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—tttttt tbe ww | +} \ re © al / Oo ap \ | Ae! "2. ---- ~~ jf{| ~. » Nee LIAS) / A
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Our very-much-awake diamond business is constantly a

Cia

increasing, because our stock 1s large, and long experi-
ence gives us the ability to fill orders in the right way
and at right prices.

The diamond pages in the 840-page 1906 B.A.& Co.
Catalogue, just published, are good pages to be familiar
with. If the book should not fulfill some special want,

a letter from you will receive prompt attention.

BENJ &C

CHICAGO.

October, 1905

THE BREYSTONE

WESTERN BUREAU OF THE KEYSTONE
200M 1.01 HEYWORTH BUILDING
CHICAGO, September 26, 1905

The West, Northwest and

A ae is of Southwest have now settled

pees down to the long pull that will
Outlook

its climax about mid-
Here in Chicago

reach
night on the 23d of December.
business 1s good in all directions. The outlook
for the future is very promising. The corn crop
is now assured, and the harvest of other grains
is all in. Seldom, if ever, have they been more
bountiful. A very large quantity of both small
and large grains will be marketed before Decem-
ber, and it is expected that this important feature
will create a season of business activity that will
last all the late fall and through the winter. Upon
the whole the outlook is most favorable, and a
fine fall trade is expected.

The last week in October and

aie wee i the first week in November
eer practically close the season of
Association merchants’ fall excursions

under the auspices of the Chi-
cago Commercial Association. In the Western
Passenger Association territory the dates for sale
of reduced rate tickets to the last meeting of this
year are October 28th and November 4th, inclu-
sive. In the Central Passenger Association ter-
ritory the dates for the same privileges to the last
meeting of the Association are October 28th and
November 3d, inclusive. In Illinois Central Ter-
ritory points south of the Ohio river, from Sep-
tember 30th to October 31st, inclusive, reduced
rates to the Chicago market will prevail. The
four metings already held, beginning with July,
have been very successful. These “meetings”
have been instrumental in bringing 10,000 country
dealers to the great central market of Chicago.
There can be no doubt but that the work of this
Association has given a tremendous impetus to Chi-
cago’s trade. In nearly every line the trade has been
double that of last year, and 1904 was not consid-
ered a bad year by Chicago wholesalers and manu-
facturers. The founders of the Association no
longer consider the enterprise in the light of an ex-
periment. The results of the work accomplished by
its aid have assured its permanence. It is now con-
sidered an important adjunct in the work of making
Chicago commercially and industriously preeminent
among the great cities of the nation. In speaking of
the prosperity now abroad in the Chicago market,
John H. Hardin, secretary of the Association and
a member of the firm of F. A. Hardy & Company,
said: “Wholesale trade conditions in Chicago
never have been better than at the present time.
I make this as a general statement, as there may
be some lines that the prosperity wave has not
fully reached as yet. It is also true, however,
that there has not yet been any great influx of out-
of-town jewelers and opticians in this market thus
far this fall. But this is a matter that is easily
explained when I state that these people seldom
do much of their holiday buying until October,
and they do not as a rule come to market until
they are ready to select their holiday lines. Our

next and last meeting will just about catch the
jewelers, and I anticipate seeing a great number
of them in the great central market the last week
in October and the first week in November.”

Benjamin Chauncey Allen, John A. Cox and
Benjamin Allen, of Benj. Allen & Company, re-
turned last week from an enjoyable automobile
jaunt through Indiana and Michigan to Detroit
and then over into Canada for a few days. The
trip, though a new experience to most of the
party, was made without accident, and proved
thoroughly enjoyable. They returned home by
way of Toledo.

Samuel Swartchild, head of the house of
Swartchild & Company, and Mrs. Swartchild, left
London September 20th and sailed that day on the
Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse for home. They ex-
pect to reach Chicago by October 1st. Mr. Swart-
child writes from London under late date that
Mrs. Swartchild and himself have enjoyed their
travels in England and the Continent very much,
and that they have had a most pleasant summer.
He also states that he has spent a great deal of
his. time in his four months’ journeying through
Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France and Eng-
land in the interests of the watchmakers and
jewelers of the United States, on the lookout for
new and desirable novelties in tools and other
articles that will interest them. He further states
that he has found quite a number of new and
useful articles that he will spring on the trade
through THe Keystone very shortly.

Walter S. Campbell, of the general office force
of the Elgin National Watch Company, was mar-
ried August 23d to Miss Madge D. Burdick, of
Elgin, Ill. The wedding occurred at the home of
the bride’s parents in Elgin, and a throng of
friends and relatives were on hand to wish the
young couple great joy in their new relation. Mr.
Campbell is a bright and worthy young man with
a future, and Tur Keystone joins with his many
friends in the trade in extending congratulations.

Louis Manheimer, Mrs. Manheimer and Miss
Manheimer returned last week from a four
months’ trip abroad. While away they traveled
at easy stages through England, Scotland and the
Continent, spending a larger part of their time
among the pleasure resorts of Germany. Mr.
Manheimer is looking well, and says he never
felt better and that they enjoyed their trip, but
that they all were mighty glad to get back to
grand and glorious America.

O. D. Richardson has been chosen secretary
of the Chicago Jewelers’ Club to fill the vacancy
caused by the death of Geo. H. Hazlett. Mr.
Richardson’s election dates from September Ist,
and the club is to be congratulated upon the
choice of its board of directors. From what
we have long known of Mr. Richardson we be-
lieve he is the right man in the right place.

We are glad to note that Max Noel, of Des-
pres, Bridges & Noel, is again able to be about
business. In our last issue we stated that he had
undergone a severe surgical operation and was
in the hospital recovering from it. Mr. Noel is
getting on nicely, though he is not able to do a
full day’s work. He does not expect to get out

1649

on the road again much before the middle of
October.

Conover Fitch, son of President Fitch, of the
American Waltham Watch Company, spent a few
days in town recently.

John H. Hardin, of F. A. Hardy & Company,
has only recently returned from a three weeks’
fishing excursion up among the wilds of the Lake
Superior country. Mr. Hardin has long been
noted as a good fisherman, and he has only added
to his laurels on this trip.

The family of Fred G. Thearle, of C. H.
Knights & Company, have returned to town for
the season from their summer home at Lake
Geneva.

Ed. Swartchild, of Swartchild & Company,
is at his desk again after a six weeks’ illness.

C. P. Dungan, of the International Silver
Company, returned the first of the month from a
three weeks’ Western trip, going as far as Salt
Lake City. Mr. Dungan’s trip was mostly as a
vacation, and he tells us that he enjoyed a de-
lightful outing among the wilds of Wyoming.

A. L. Wiffin, with Benj. Allen & Company,
returned last week from a most enjoyable vaca-
tion spent in Colorado. He was accompanied by
Mrs. Wiffin and the children.

President Ellbogen, of the Stein & Ellbogen
Company, is now in the European diamond marts.
This is Mr. Ellbogen’s third visit so far this year
to Europe, each trip being a buying trip. This
firm’s business in diamonds has been good this
year, and the demands of the trade have made it
necessary for Mr. Ellbogen’s third trip to the
world’s chief diamond marts.

H. A. Bredel, manager of the watch depart-
ment of A. C. Becken’s, returned from a four
weeks’ trip to the Pacific Coast the early part of
the month, Mr. Bredel journeyed west over the
Southern route through California, and returned
home by the Northern route, taking in the Port-
land Fair.

J. B. Hoecker, of the Hunter-Hoecker Com-
pany, a well-known optical house of New York
and Brooklyn, spent several days in this market
last week.

A. L. Sercomb, Chicago manager for the
International Silver Company, left the 1st of Sep-
tember for a month’s outing in the Pacific North-
west. Mr. Sercomb expected to spend a week
looking over the Lewis and Clark Exposition at
Portland and to make a side trip up into British
Columbia.

I’, A. Hardy, of F. A. Hardy & Company, and
family have returned to their Evanston home
after a pleasant summer spent at their summer
home on the Macanac Islands.

Theo. H. Purple, formerly well-known in the
Chicago trade from his long connection with the
Holmes & Edwards Silver Plate Company as
their Chicago manager, but of late engaged in
other lines, has returned to his old love as Chi-
cago and Western representative for the Middle-
town Silver Company, Middletown, Conn., and
the cut glass line of Taylor Bros. & Company, of
Philadelphia. Mr, Purple has opened an office in
Room 1103 Heyworth Building,

Kk. M. Lunt, Chicago manager for the Towle
Manufacturing Company, has just returned from
a ten days’ trip to the company’s factory at New-
buryport, Mass.

Gossip Among the Trade

The Northern Illinois College, of Chicago,
draws students from all over the world. F. W.
Howson, of Canterbury, England, has just regis-
tered for a course in optics at this widely-known
school.

The M. S. Benedict Manufacturing Company
have removed their Chicago salesrooms to the
sixth floor of the Silversmiths’ Building.

The Geo. H. Fuller & Son Company will
remove October 1st from the seventh floor of the
Columbus Memorial Building to enlarged quar-
ters on the tenth floor of the new Heyworth
Building, at Madison street and Wabash avenue,
where they will have a considerably larger space
than in their old quarters. The new office will
be fitted up in first-class style with modern con-
veniences. The removal is fully warranted by the
increasing business of the firm. Mr. Mather, the
Chicago and Western manager, tells us that they
have long felt the need of more room.

(Continued on page 1651)

1650

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will depend on the adaptability of your stock to the

wants of your patrons. Our big cutting plant, our large
supplies and accurate knowledge of trade requirements,
enable us to supply the diamond stock that best fits
your needs, and at prices that will mean quick and
profitable sales.

We can help you to a greater extent than any other
to take advantage of the unusual diamond-selling possi-
bilities of this prosperous season. Prompt attention given

to all mail orders.

Stein @ Elllbogen Company

Wholesale Jewelers and Diamond Cutters

Columbus Memorial Building, Chicago

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October, 1906

Chicago Letter

(Continued from page 1649)!

The following students have just recently
graduated in optics from the Northern Illinois
College of this city: L. Leubrie, Winnetka, IIl.;
A. G. Kirmse, Dubuque, lowa; John B. Clopton,
Arlington, Texas; M. R. Held, Chicago, and
Howard E. Whitney, M.D., Otsego, Mich.

Benj. Allen & Co. have issued their annua]
catalogue to the trade. This is an 840-page book,
copiously illustrated with handsome _haif-tones
and abounding in information of everyday interest
and usefulness to the dealer. The scope of this
catalogue embraces practically everything sold by
the jeweler, and in typography and general ar-
rangement it isa very fine specimen of adver-
tising literature, and one which the trade will find
valuable as a means of reference.

A. C. Becken has issued his thirteenth annual
catalogue and price-list. This is a very volu-
minous compilation, containing over 700 pages,
handsomely printed and profusely illustrated.
The book is methodically arranged, and embraces
within its scope not only all varieties of jewelry
and kindred goods but tools and materials as
well.

News from the Trade

J. B. Ingalls is a new jeweler who has re-
cently embarked in business in Rock Island, Ill.
Mr. Ingalls bought his opening stock in this
market.

L. W. Bruns, the lively Western representa-
tive of the Juergens & Andersen Company, with
headquarters at Denver, is spending a few days
in Chicago after a prosperous trip of ten weeks.
Mr. Bruns says that trade is quite good in the
West at present and that the outlook for fall
business was never better.

Phil. Noel, house man with Despres, Bridges
& Noel, and brother of the genial Max, has been
covering his brother’s territory since the latter’s
illness, and “making good” right along. The Noel
brothers—Max, Rudolph and Philip—are the kind
of salesmen that are born, not made.

The retail optical house of T. J. Howe &
Company, Louisville, Ky., were represented in
this market last week by Mr. Sackstedder, who
was here for several days, combining business
with pleasure.

Cards have been received at this office an-
nouncing the wedding of Jeweler Robert N.
Phipps, of Fulton, Ky., and Miss Irene Cason.
The ceremony will occur at the home of the bride’s
parents in Jackson, Tenn., on the evening of Octo-
ber 4th. THE Keystone takes pleasure in extend-
ing congratulations.

George Robb, city salesman for F. A. Hardy
& Company, is being congratulated by his friends
upon his recent marriage to a Chicago lady.

The Boyd Park Jewelry Company, of Denver,
Colo., have been represented in this market the
past week by Mr. Knox, who has charge of their
manufacturing department.

J. M. Gandere, with Bitterman Brothers,
Evansville, Ind., was a trade caller in this market
recently.

C. M. Perkins, of the St. Louis Silver Com-
pany, spent a week in town the early part of the
month calling on the Chicago trade in the inter-
ests of his firm.

C. E. Roy, Western traveler for A. C. Becken,
left headquarters the early part of the month for
an extended trip over his territory. He will go
as far as the Pacific Coast before returning home.

Wade Williams, of Warren & Williams, ring
makers of Providence, is spending this week
among the Chicago trade in the interests of his
house.

George M. Landon, Chicago and Western
agent for the Homan Manufacturing Company,
which has only recently succeeded to the business
of the Homan Silver Plate Company at Cincin-
nati, returned last week from a successful trip
over the “Western Circuit,’ touching the larger
cities only. Mr. Landon says that fall business
is opening up fine all around the “Circuit,” and
that he expects to see the boom keep on right up
to the holidays.

Dave Axman, Chicago and Western repre-

THE RKRBEBEYSTONE

sentative of the J. D. Bergen Manufacturing
Company, is out on the road on the lookout for
cut glass orders.

C. L. Glines, jeweler-optician of Harrison,
Ark., spent several weeks recently in Chicago,
where he was pursuing a post-graduate course
in optics at the Northern Illinois Coilege.

W. F. Laraway, the well-known and success-
ful jeweler at Glenwood, Iowa, has recently estab-
lished a branch store at Hood River, Oregon.

J. W. Neasham, of Ottumwa, lowa, is about
to make extensive improvements in his store by
rearranging it and putting in modern fixtures for
the main part of his store. The new fixtures will
be of mahogany, richly finished, and when the
improvements are completed Mr. Neasham ex-
pects to show his customers and friends one of
the really handsome jewelry establishments of the
Hawkeye State and the Western country as well.
The work is being done by F. C. Jorgeson &
Company, of this city.

C. A. Kiger, the well-known Kansas City
jobber, was in town for a day early in the month
calling on the manufacturing trade.

Following is a list of students who have re-
cently taken up a course in optics at the Northern
Illinois College of this city: Thomas B. Sanders,
of Texas; Clark A. Beswick, Libertyville, IIl.;
Ella B. Dimond, of Oregon; B. H. Goll, Chicago;
Charles Mantor, of Colorado; John A. Weeks,
Arensville, Ill.; William ,J. Krueger, of Minne-
sota; Charles Tribe, Milwaukee, Wis.; P. S.
Dougherty, M.D., of California; M. L. Rooney,
Coalport, Pa.; Eugene G. Wiseman, Harrodsburg,
Ky.; Edward A. Mack, Oakland, Cal.; Alton D.
Guion, Chicago, and Edward S. Kernen, Battle
Creek, Mich.

John Hillinger, of R. J. Hillinger & Company,
is on an extended Western trip, which includes
the Pacific Coast country and the Rocky Moun-
tain territory. He reports trade as excellent in
that section of the couuntry.

A. N. Dennes, of Fred. Fuchs & Brothers,
the well-known New York silversmiths, is spend-
ing a few days among the Chicago trade in the
interests of his house.

L. M. Ratliff, formerly of Francisville, Ind.,
is now with Jeweler L. M. Lauterman, of Colo-
rado Springs, Colo.

Jeweler H. E. Fox, of Albuquerque, New
Mexico, has recently returned from a trip to
British Columbia and the Portland Fair. Mr. Cox
reports a delightful outing.

H. Harrison, of Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan,
has just recently returned from a trip to the West,
where he was visiting his parents.

L. W. Williams, who travels in Texas, Okla-
homa and Kansas territory for Norris, Alister &
Company, left headquarters last week for his sec-
ond fall trip. Mr. Williams is expecting to find
trade quite prosperous in the Southwestern coun-
try, as his July and August trip gave every in-
dication for a brisk demand for goods as the holi-
day season approached.

Claude E. Range, of Trenton, Mo., has just
been appointed local watch inspector for the
Quincy, Omaha & Kansas City Railroad. Mr.
Range has for several years past been watch in-
spector for the Rock Island system. With his
new road he now has to inspect the watches of
over three hundred railroad men every fortnight,
and regulate their watches at least four times
a year.

Hugo F. Gruschow, buyer and catalogue
man for Noack & Gorenflo, Detroit, was in town
for a day recently, calling on his friends in the
trade. Mr. Gruschow is an old Chicago boy, and
for a number of years was connected with Otto
Young & Company and always enjoys visiting
here.

Jeweler Vernier, of Toledo, Ohio, is a lover
of outdoor sport and always improves his oppor-
tunities for hunting and fishing. He spent the
early part of this month in the woods, enjoying
some rare sport in hunting.

L. Cook, of Cook & Shepner, Flint, Mich.,
spent the early part of September in the northern
part of that State on a fishing excursion which
he enjoyed very much.

Jeweler Bowley, of Belvidere, Ill., is spending
a few weeks up among the wilds of Northern
Minnesota, enjoying some rare sport in hunting
and fishing.

1651

Al. E. Henry, the well-known jewcler of
Rockford, Ill., had his show window shattered
and broken into Sunday night, September 17th.
The thieves got away with something like $300
worth of goods, and up to this writing have not
been apprehended.

W. H. Rankin, in charge of the material de-
partment for the Lewis Jewelers’ Supply Com-
pany, wholesale, Denver, Colo., was in the city
for several days last week, enjoying life in the
Western metropolis and calling on the manu-
facturing trade.

Fred. R. Sheridan, of Arnold & Steere, and
W. A. Fay, Western man for the John T. Mauran
Manufacturing Company, left Chicago headquar-
ters the middle of September for their second
fall trip to the Pacific Coast. These gentlemen
expect to return to Chicago by October 15th.

Jeweler S. J. Gilger, of Norwalk, Ohio, is fit-
ting up and will soon have completed one of the
really swell stores of the Buckeye State.

G. A. Clark & Son, the well-known jewelers
of Lorain, Ohio, are making extensive improve-
ments in their store and adding new fixtures in
order to keep up with the demands of their grow-
ing business.

G. G. Case, of Jackson, Michigan, has only
recently returned to business looking much im-
proved, after a delightful outing spent at his sum-
mer home in the northern part of his State.

J. A. Schoenthaler will enlarge his premises
on the sixth floor of the Columbus Memoriai
Building by taking in the adjoining room on the
south. This enlargement of his quarters is made
necessary by increasing business. Mr. Schoen-
thaler expects to occupy his enlarged quarters
about October 15th.

S. H. Clausin, head of the house of S. H.
Clausin & Company, wholesale, Minneapolis,
Minn., spent a day in town this week, calling on
the manufacturing trade.

Jeweler J. Murbach, of Elyria, Ohio, kas just
returned from a several months’ stay on the
Pacific Coast looking well and hearty. Mr. Mur-
bach enjoyed a delightful trip and was greatly
pleased with the prosperity and progress he met
with in the great and growing West. .

McCoy & Company, of Minot, North Dakota,
have just recently been making improvements in
their store by putting in some new fixtures. This
enterprising firm now has one of the really swell
stores of that section of the country, so travelers
tell us who have recently called on them.

C. T. E. Smith, who covers the Central West
for Reed & Barton, will have the sympathy of his
many friends in the trade upon the loss of his
mother, whose death occurred at their home in
this city early in September.

R. N. Blair, the well-known road salesman,
has succeeded F. E. Blackburn as manager of the
Colonial Jewelry Company, located in the Atwood
Building.

A. C. Smith, general time inspector for the
Mexican Central Railway and other Mexican
railroad lines, with headquarters at the City of
Mexico, is in town this week, calling on his old
friends in the trade. He is accompanied by his
family.

S. Swart, the veteran jeweler of West Bay
City, Mich., is dead. His death occurred at the
family home in that city the first week in Sep-
tember.

H. E. Scattergood has recently opened a first-
class jewelry store in Hinsdale, Mich.

B. H. Broer, of Toledo, Ohio, is fitting up a
modern store, having outgrown his present lo-
cation.

_ Norris, Alister & Co. will have ready jor dis-
tribution about October 15th their thirty-eighth
annual catalogue. This compilation will contain
500 pages, attractively printed and abundantly il-
lustrated with rich half-tones. An unusual amount
of care has been exercised in the preparation of
this catalogue, which as a result is replete with
useful information on the vast lines carried by
this firm. The book will be sent to regular
jewelers on request.

Otto Young & Company have issued their
1906 catalogue, which is a very comprehensive
book, containing fine illustrations and full de-
scriptions of the extensive lines carried by this
well-known firm. This catalogue marks an ad-

(Continued on page 1653)

1652

ur 1906 Catalogue

Was sent about October rst to all legitimate jewelers with whom we
have had the pleasure of doing business. Are you on our list, and have
you received our book? If not, advise us, and if there 1s a possibility of
doing business with you, and you are a legitimate jeweler, we will be
pleased to send it to you, all charges prepaid.

It is the most complete book of the kind ever published, containing
616 pages of illustrations, showing all desirable staples and novelties in
Watches, Diamonds, Kings, Charms, jewelry, Pens, Canes, Umbrellas!
Novelties, Volret (,00d5. é
needed by Watchmakers, Jewelers and Opticians, excepting Tools,

locks and Optical Goods; in fact everything

Material and Findines, hese goods are shown in a separate book.
If you have not received same, advise us, and we will forward it to you,
iree ot charve.

We have moved into larger quarters in the new, modern, fire-proof

HEYWORTH BUILDING
34 to 48 Madison St. a2 125 to 129 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO

Our store-room contains 14,400 square feet, and is the largest
exclusively wholesale jewelry establishment in the world. We have
added new lines to our stock, and increased the variety in every depart-
ment, but have made no change 1n our prices, which remain as heretofore,
uniformly low. We invite comparison of goods and prices, as it will
help us, and make you our customer.

All orders filled promptly and accurately.

Call and see us when you come to Chicago.

Send us your orders and we will guarantee to please you.

Wishing you prosperity, we remain,

Res} vecttully,

OTTO YOUNG &G CO.

October, 1905

Chicago Letter

‘(Continued from page 1651)

vance on all previous advertising productions got-
ten out by the firm,in matter, typography and
systematic arrangement. It should prove a very
useful addition to the jeweler’s collection of
advertising literature as a ready means of refer-
ence. It is distributed free to the retail jewelry
trade, and dealers who will not have received a
copy by October 15th should notify the firm.

Out of Town Visitors

C. Pieper, of Zeeland, Michigan, spent a day
in town last week on the lookout for late fall
novelties.

E. J. Price & Company, of Reinbeck, Iowa,
was represented in this market last week by the
head of the firm, who was here selecting his fall
bills.

H. J. Dale, of Linton, Ind., was met in one
of our wholesale offices last week. Mr. Dale was
spending a week in Chicago, visiting his relatives
and doing some fall buying.

F. D. Day & Company, the well-known
jewelers of Duluth, Minn., were represented in
this market last week by C. W. Bagley, the man-
aging partner of the firm, who was here on a
fall buying trip.

W. N. Boynton, the pioneer and well-known
jeweler of Manchester, Iowa, was in the Chicago
market for a few days last week, selecting his fall
bills.

Martin & Hoerr, of Mankato, Minn., were
represented in this market last week by Frank
Hoerr, who was selecting their fall lines.

C. R. Smith, of Huntington, Indiana, paid the
Chicago market a visit last week, and was a
liberal buyer in fall lines.

S. B. Holley, of Continental, Ohio, spent a
few days in Chicago recently, combining business
with pleasure.

O. H. Weedman is a new jeweler in Monti-
cello, Ill. Mr. Weedman spent several days in
Chicago last week, purchasing his open stock.
When seen in one of our wholesale houses he
said he was buying rather liberally as he had a
good town and expected a fairly good business
from the start.

S. Jacobs, head of the well-known jewelry
house of S. Jacobs & Son, Des Moines, lIowa.,
was a welcome visitor in this market last week.
Mr. Jacobs is one of the pioneer jewelers of the
Hawkeye State, and has been quite successful in
building up a nice business.

C. F. Baldwin, of Berran Springs, Michigan,
was among the many visiting buyers in this mar-
ket recently.

W. P. Reichert, of Canton, IIl., accompanied
by Mrs. Reichert, was in Chicago last week, com-
bining his fall buying with pleasure and sight-
seeing.

John Schmelzer, of Centralia, Ill, was in
town recntly selecting his fall bills.

F. E. Shortiss, of Traer, Iowa, the well-known
and always welcome buyer in this market, was
here for several days recently, selecting his fall
bills. He was a liberal buyer, as he thinks Iowa
is all right this year for a prosperous fall and
holiday business.

C. A. Church, of Belle Plaine, Iowa, was
among the many Western jewelers in this market
recently, selecting his fall and holiday bills.

Albert Opbendyk, of Grand Rapids, Michigan,
spent a day or two recently in this market, on the
lookout for late fall novelties.

H. E. Taylor, of Bloomington, Wis., was a
visiting buyer in this market last week, selecting
his fall bills.

R. Herrick, of Edmore, Michigan, spent a day
in Chicago recently, selecting goods for his home
store.

Frank Mayr, the head of the well-known re-
tail house of Frank Mayr & Son, South Bend,
Ind., was a welcome visiting buyer in this market
last week. He was accompanied by Mrs. Mayr.

C. D. Gardner, of Manistee, Michigan, who
has bought goods in this market for over thirty
years, was a welcome visiting buyer here last
week.

F,. A. Vogt, of Mishawaka, Indiana, spent a

THE KEYSTONE

few days in this market last week, laying in a
supply of fall goods for the home store.

Otto Eggers, of Atlantic, Iowa, was a trade
caller in this market last week, on the lookout for
late fall novelties.

J. C. Hoagland, of Sheldon, Ill., spent a day
in town recently on a purchasing trip.

Lochman Brothers, the well-known jewelers
of Springfield, Ill, were represented in this mar-
ket recently by G. Lochman, of the firm, who was
here on a buying trip.

J. D. Taylor, of Logansport, Ind., was a recent
buyer in this market, selecting goods for the home
store.

W. C. Alexander, of Salida, Colo., spent sev-
eral days in Chicago market recently, doing some
fall buying and enjoying life in the Western me-
tropolis.

J. M. Scribner & Son, of Attica, Ind., were
represented in this market recently by Mr. Scrib-
ner, Jr., who was here attending to the firm’s fall
buying, accompanied by Mrs. Scribner.

J. H. Smyth, of Fort Smith, Arkansas, spent
several days in Chicago recently, doing some fall
buying and enjoying our fine summer resort
weather.

Ernest Starkey, of Waterford, Wis., was
among the many fall buyers in this market re-
cently.

A. D. Lemon, of Attica, Ind., was in town
recently, on the lookout for late fall novelties.

A. B. Macdonald, of Chillicothe, Mo., was a
welcome buyer in this market for a few days last
week.

Robert D. Worrell, the well-known and suc-
cessful jeweler of Mexico, Mo., was in Chicago
for several days last week, doing his fall buying
and enjoying life in a great city. Mr. Worrell
brought the news that he was making extensive
improvements in his store, in expectation of a fine
business this fall and holiday season. He says
that grand old Missouri is in mighty good shape
this year, and that trade conditions and prospects
were never better.

W. A. Grant, Harrisburg, IIl., was a visiting
buyer in this market recently.

T. G. Studel, of Chilton, Wisconsin, was in
Chicago on a purchasing trip recently.

George A. Young, of Moberly, Mo., spent a
few days here recently, combining business with
pleasure.

E. L. Thayer, of Rockford, Ill, was among
the many buyers who visited this market recently
on a fall purchasing trip.

F. B. Crane, of Mount Pleasant, Iowa, was
in the city for a few days recently, looking over
the market for the newest things in fall novelties.

W. T. Hixson, of the Wm. T. Hixson Com-
pany, the widely-known jewelers of El] Paso,
Texas, is spending a fortnight in Chicago, visit-
ing relatives and attending to the firm’s fall
buying.

C. E. Prouty, of Bradford, Ill, spent a day
in Chicago recently on a purchasing trip.

Andrew Rovelstad, of Rovelstad Brothers,
Elgin, Ill., was seen in one of our jobbing houses
this week, where he was doing some buying for
the home market. Mr. Rovelstad was of the
opinion that trade would be excellent this fall and
winter, and said that he could see nothing to
hinder an unusually prosperous holiday business
this season.

Joseph F. Higginbotham, of Brandon, Canada,
spent several days in Chicago, combining his fall
buying with seeing the sights of a great city.

The Cook Jewelry Company, of Fayetteville,
Ark., was represented in this market last week
by the head of the firm, who was here on a fall
purchasing trip.

S. R. Mace, for over thirty years a jeweler at
Moulton, Iowa, was a visiting buyer in this mar-
ket last week, selecting his fall bills.

E. F. Schmermund, of Greenville, Ohio, was
a liberal buyer in this market last week. He is
expecting a good trade this fall and was buying
accordingly.

J. Crossno, of Sallsaw, Indian Territory, was
among the many Western buyers selecting their
fall bills in this market last week.

P. S. Schander, of Missoula, Montana, spent
several days in Chicago recently, selecting his fall
and holiday bills.

Gardner & Pennington, of Longmont, Colo.,

ee — ——

1653

were represented in this market recently by Mr.
B. Gardner, the senior member of the firm, who
was here for a few days, seeing the sights and
attending to the firm’s fall buying.

Fred A. Klass, of Hebbing, Minn., spent a
few days in this market recently, on the lookout
for late fall novelties.

F. A. Averbeck, of Madison, Wis., spent a
day in this market recently, on the lookout for the
late things in fall novelties.

A. Elbe, of Bloomington, IIl., accompanied by
Mrs. Elbe, was here for a day early in this week,
combining their fall buying with pleasure.

M. E. Leavens, of Fulton, Mo., spent a few
days recently in the Chicago market, selecting his
fall and holiday lines.

H. G. Reid, of Liberal, Kans., and Mrs. Ried,
spent several days in Chicago last week, doing
some fall buying and enjoying the sights of a
great city.

O. C. Cobb, of Iowa Falls, Iowa, a familiar
and welcome buyer in this market, was here for
a few days recently, selecting his fall bills.

Ray E. Stuart, of South Wayne, Wis., spent
a day or two in the great central market of Chi-
cago recently, selecting goods for his fall trade.

A. Krautheim, the well-known and successful
jeweler of Muskegon, Mich., was here for a few
days recently, looking over the market and select-
ing his fall bills.

U. S. Bond, of Osceola, Iowa, spent a few
days in the Chicago market the early part of the
month, selecting his fall bills. Mr. Bond reports
Iowa as in good condition for a prosperous fall
and holiday business. The crop and the general
trade outlook in the Hawkeye State never were
better.

A. H. Pike, the well-known jeweler of Rock-
ford, Ill., was in the market recently on a fall
purchasing trip.

W. A. Pfister, of Sheboygan, Wis., was a wel-
come visiting buyer in the Chicago market re-
cently.

H. F. Witt, of Monticello, Iowa, was in town
for a day or two the early part of the month,
attending to his fall buying.

J. ©. Peers, of Rockford, Ill., spent a day in
this market recently, on the lookout for late fall
novelties.

F. D. Harris, of Lincoln, Neb., and his little
son spent several days in Chicago last week,
selecting his fall and holiday goods.

Jeweler H. S. Miller, of Milwaukee, was in
the city recently on a fall purchasing trip.

W. H. Carew, of Streator, Ill., spent a few
days in town early in the month, attending to his
fall buying.

J. L. Mahon, of Aurora, Iil.,. was in this: mar-
ket recently on a purchasing trip.

A. F. Hall, of Janesville, Wis., was in Chi-
cago recently on his return home from a two
months’ trip in Europe. Mr. Hall was looking
well and said that he never felt better. He re-
ports a most delightful outing.

Frank Ricketts, of Charleston, Ill., was in
Chicago for several days recently, looking over the
market for early fall novelties.

Dan. Robinson, the well-known retail optician
of Galveston, Texas, spent several days in this
market the early part of the month, doing some
buying and enjoying our delightful fall weather.

A. H. Fraudsen, of Monmouth, III., was here
for a few days recently, selecting his fall bills.

C. L. Glines, of Harrison, Arkansas, spent the
last month in Chicago, pursuing a course of optics
at the Northern Illinois College.

P. H. Spohn, the well-known jeweler of
Greensburg, Ind., spent several days in this mar-
ket recently, combining business with pleasure.

E. C. Pike, of Kankakee, IIl., a familiar figure
in this market, spent a day in town recently on a
buying trip.

L. Ratzesberger, of Milford, IIl., was a visit-
ing buyer in this market last week.

H. S. Lilius, of Hattiesburg, Miss., is in Chi-
cago to-day en route home from a six weeks’
stay at the Battle Creek Sanitarium. Mr. Lilius
says that they have not as yet had any yellow
fever cases in their town, though situated only
about 100 miles north of New Orleans, but that
the fever scare has hurt their business seriously
for this season. Mr. Lilius was a congenial caller
at KrysToNE headquarters while here.

Greatest
of Season

SS .
SS S
N
SS y S
N SS ‘S SS
SN S Ss iS
N RS AAS

Patented Feb, 28, 1905
“July 4, 1905

Bracelets are having a greater sale this season than for many years.
The new Sturdy bracelet has made a distinct hit, being the most
perfect and complete bracelet ever produced, It 1s made of gold
filled stock, also in 10 K. or 14 K. solid gold, in plain finishes, hand-
chased designs and stone sets. [he joints are invisible, and when
closed the bracelet presents the appearance of a solid circle.

We shall have one more size ready for the trade by Sept. rst.
Jewelers who have not been supplied can obtain samples from any
representative jobber.

Made only’ by

STURDY’S

Makers of

The Sturdy Line of Standard Watch Chains

Main Office amd Works
ATTLEBORO FALLS, MASS.

Salesrooms: 7 Maiden Lane, New York, and 713 Market St., San Francisco

Established 1865

——— —

October, 1905

We are very glad to state that

TE ae trade conditions are fairly satis-
a factory in St. Louis, and that
Satisfactory

since our last report general
business conditions in the South have improved
considerably. While the yellow fever is still in
existence in some sections, and probably will be
for some weeks to come, the authorities seem to
have it in pretty thorough control. The people
are becoming used to the situation and are not
allowing the pestilence to interfere so much with
business as they did a few weeks ago. Letters
from jewelers in Louisiana state that the most
serious inconvenience from the plague is the de-
lay in their mails. Nearly all the traveling men
who abandoned their territories on account of the
fever are now on the road again, in territory where
there is no quarantine, giving a good account of
themselves. A rush is expected, however, when
the yellow fever quarantine is raised, and jobbers
hope to regain most of the business lost.

St. Louis has enjoyed a great
St. Louis influx of out-of-town dealers
Trade Conquests thus far this fall, through the

efforts of the Inter-State Mer-
chants’ Association. Kansas, Arkansas, Oklahoma
and the Indian Territory, Texas, Arizona and
New Mexico have been especially well represented,
the number of buyers being fully as great this
season as it was a year ago. For at least two
reasons this is a remarkable fact. Last year many
new buyers were attracted here by the World’s
Fair. This year the yellow fever in the gulf tier
of States was expected to diminish trade in this
center, for the reason that the St. Louis market
has always enjoyed much good fall trade from
Louisiana and Mississippi, which will be largelv
shut out in 1905. The pestilence has cut down the

demands for merchandise in those States, and con-

sequently they will not be such a factor in our
trade as they are in the average years. But from
Texas, Oklahoma, the Indian Territory and Ar-
kansas the flood of buyers is as large as it was
one year ago. From Kansas, New Mexico, Ari-
zona and Colorado the volume is larger than it
was in August and September, 1904. This is a
tribute to St. Louis’ advantages as a purchasing
center for the country immediately surrounding
us. We get many buyers from Illinois, notwith-
standing Chicago’s efforts to catch all of that
State’s trade. Many buyers are coming to us from
Iowa, Minnesota, and the Dakotas. For their
trade we have to compete with Chicago, which
makes special endeavors to attract the favors of
the whole of that big district. In many lines of
goods, however, buyers from that field can deal
to advantage in St. Louis as compared with the
city at the south end of Lake Michigan. St. Louis
is boldly extending the scope of its commercial
relations every year. Our wholesalers in all lines
are reaching out farther and farther and making
conquests in new fields. In the Northwest we are
steadily and rapidly extending our swav. From
Minnesota to Montana we are making gains in
sales of all sorts of merchandise every year, de-
spite the competition which is being offered by
Chicago and New York.

Tie Great It is in ae BOUL WESt, oes
and Growing ee that st. Louis Is aS ing
Southwest er largest conquests. ihe re-

gion from Missouri down to
the Mexico line is growing with greater rapidity
than any other part of the United States. That
vast stretch of country naturally looks to St.
Louis as a distributing center. More homeseekers
are going into the Indian Territory and Texas
than into any other section of the country. The
Uintah and other reservations which are being
thrown open to settlement are not attracting so
many immigrants as are moving into Texas and
the two territories between that State and the
Kansas and Missouri line. Texas has just got
ahead of Illinois in the extent of railway main
track, thus depriving Illinois of a preponderance

THE KEBY STONE

which she has held since 1870. More of the new
railway mileage of the country for the past fiv«
years has gone into the Southwest than into any
other locality in the country of the same popula-
tion. The prosperity which the entire country
has in particularly large measure in I905 1s espe-
cially conspicuous in the territory commercially
tributary to this city. To the great Southwest and
its commercial capital, St. Louis, this season is
notably lavish in fortune’s favors.

W. B. Elliott & Brother, of Camden, Ark.,
were represented in this market last month by W.
B. Elliott, the head of the firm, who was here
selecting the firm’s fall bills.

A. Guyot, of Jefferson City, Mo., was among
the many visiting buyers in this market last
month, selecting his fall bills.

A. Stortz, of Little Rock, Ark., visited St.
Louis last month for the purpose of stocking up
for the fall trade.

To encourage commercial immigration to the
Southwest and Middle West the Business Men’s
League of St. Louis has adopted a novel system
of furnishing information of business openings
to all who desire such information.

The St. Louis Clock & Silverware Company
are sending out to the trade this month their
handsome new fall catalogue. It is larger, hand-
somer and more interesting than its predecessors.
The front cover is quite attractive and the print-
ing of the book is in excellent taste. It is, of
course, profusely illustrated, and the engravings
are of the highest class, among them being nu-
merous half-tone phototype plates especially illus-
trative of silverware and cut glass effects, leather
and art goods effects. Every department of this
business—clocks, silverware, cut glass, art goods,
lamps, leather goods and all the late novelties—is
represented in its pages. Not the least attractive
feature of this new catalogue are the prices at-
tached. It will be sent free to any reader of THE
KEYSTONE who is a regular jeweler in the trade
territory covered by the above firm. If you have
not received the new book when you read this
item, send for it.

President Goodman King, of the Mermod,
Jaccard & King Jewelry Company, has just re-
turned from his second European buying trip
this year.

Morris Eisenstadt, president of the Eisenstadt
Company. has recently purchased a handsome
auto machine, and is getting. no little enjoyment
each day speeding over our streets at a lively
eait. He has already become skilled in the man-
agement of the machine, and says he enjoys the
sport greatly. Mr. Eisenstadt also thinks that the
automobile is a great invention for the busy busi-
ness man, especially as a health-givine power.

Sam Lowenstein, who travels in Missouri and
Illinois territory for the Bauman-Massa Company,
was at headquarters for a week the early part of
September, stocking up for his second fall trip
over his territorv. He reports good business.

Joseph W. Cary, head of the wholesale tool
and material firm that bears his name, returned
last month from his summer outing spent at Har-
bor Beach, Northern Michigan. While away he
and a friend encountered a severe storm while
voyaging in a sailboat from Charlevoix to Harbor
Beach. They started in a sailboat, the property
of Mr. Cary, and encountered rough weather,
making the voyage a very perilous and trying one.
They arrived safely at Harbor Beach, completely
exhausted by the trio. During the entire voyage
the boat was kept under full sail, which was neces-
sary as a safeguard on account of the heavy sea
running. Mr. Cary, who is said to be one of the
most experienced sailing masters in the Missis-
sippi valley, was mighty glad to escape from this
experience with his life.

Louis M. Fey, of Chamois, Mo., visited this
market last month on his fall purchasing trip.

C. C. Stevenson, of Pittsburg, Kansas, was
seen among our wholesale houses last month, buy-
ing fall goods.

M. T. Graham, of Fort Smith, Ark., spent
several days in this market last month, selecting
his fall bills.

H. E. Kay, Cape Girardeau, Mo., was seen
among our wholesalers last month, selecting his
fall lines.

Altenmueller & Bea, of Washington, Mo.,
were represented in this market last month by H.

Altenmueller, who was here on a fail purchasing
trip.

Jeweler O. L. Davis and Mrs. Davis, of New
Madrid, Mo., were trade callers in this market
last month. Mr. Davis reports a bright outlook
for fall and holiday btsiness, and was selecting
his fall lines accordingly.

Jeweler A. M. Zerweck and Mrs. Zerweck, of
East St. Louis, returned last month from a de-
lightful outing spent among Northern Michigan
resorts.

O. C. Stegmaier has succeeded to the retail
jewelry business of R. Reichard at Washington,
Mo.

The announcement of the death of Mrs. Rob-
ert E. McMath, née Trent, wife of the president
of the St. Louis Board of Public Works, at her
home in this city, September zth, cast a gloom
over the trade. For ten years previous to her
marriage to Mr. McMath, about five years ago,
she was the faithful and efficient cashier of the
Eisenstadt Company. Eight years previous to her
connection with this house she held a similar posi-
tion with the old Providence Jewelry Company,
so that her acquaintance with the trade was quite
extensive. Mrs. McMath, whom everybody knew
as “Miss Trent,” was a woman of rare business
ability and high character. She had many friends
in the trade who will read this item with sadness
and will remember her as a true lady of the old-
fashioned type.

Ed. Massa, of the Bauman-Massa Company,
returned the middle of the last month from a
most successful two weeks’ trip through Okla-
homa, Kansas and Nebraska. He reports trade
conditions in that territory as most promising. In
fact, he never found the outlook for a good fall
and holiday trade better in this territory than he
did on this trip.

August Kurtzeborn, head of the retail house
of A. Kurtzeborn & Sons, returned early last
month from a nine weeks’ outing spent among the
Northern lakes.

George R. Stumpf has recently returned from
a six weeks’ trip to California and the Portland
Fair. He was accompanied by his wife and
mother and reports a delightful outing.

John Bolland, head of the John Bolland
Jewelry Company, returned early in the month
from an extended Eastern trip.

W. T. Kemper. the Franklin Avenue retailer,
has just returned from a delightful outing spent
in Colorado.

Mever Bauman, of the L. Bauman Company,
returned early last month from a three months’
stay in Europe, accompanied by his daughter. Mr.
Bauman reports a delightful summer spent «broad.

A. Swink was a visiting buyer in this market
last month.

M. Roberts, of Troy, Ill., spent a day here
recently. selecting his fall bills.

V. L. Prevallet, of Perryville, Mo., spent a
day in the St. Louis market last month, replen-
ishing his home stock.

G. H. Geer, of Jackson, Tenn., was a welcome
buyer in this market last month.

W. R. Haselwood, of Bardwell, Ky., was in
St. Louis last month, selecting his fall bills.

J. Jones is a new jeweler at Casa, Ark. Mr.
Jones was formerly with Jeweler J. FE. Ketchem,
of Morrilton, Arkansas. He bought his open stock
in this market last month.

Fred. Herrold, of Jerseyville, Ill., paid the St.
Louis market a visit last month for the purpose
of stocking up for the fall trade.

B. Gottlieb, of Pine Bluff, Ark.. spent a few
days in town last month, combining business with
pleasure.

J. Schmelzer, of Centralia, Il., was among
the large number of visiting buyers in this market
last month.

Fred. Studer, the well-known jeweler of
Waco, Texas, spent a few days in town last
month, combining some fall buying with the pleas-
ures of life in the great Southwestern metropolis.

C. B. Cook, of West Point, Ark., visited the
St. Louis market last month on his fall buying
trip.

Geo. P. Vogt, of Montgomery, Mo., paid this
market a visit last month, on the lookout for fall
novelties.

S. G. Parker, of Newport, Ark., was a visit-
ing buyer in this market last month.

1656
New York Letter
(Continued from page 1647)
The New The opening, last month, of the

new store of the Gorham Mfg.
Co., situated at Fifth Avenue
and Thirty- sixth Street, was a noteworthy event in
the commercial progress of

Gorham Building

this city, and one of which
the jewelry trade has special
reason to be proud. In size,
architecture and general ap-
pointments this establish-
ment ranks with the greatest
of its kind in the world. It
has the unique distinction of
being the first store of such
magnitude and beauty to be
exclusively devoted to the
sale of one manufacturing
company’s product. It be-
longs toa Florentine renais-
sance style, rises to the lib-
eral height of eight stories
and occupies
feet on Fifth
hundred

sixty-seven
Avenue and
and
seven feet Thirty sixth
Street. To the casual ob-
server it does not appear
so high, owing to the archi-
tectural characteristics of
the facade, which latter is
horizontally divided into
three sections, one
another; first an arcaded
story, then a section of plain
masonwork and over this
a handsomely
loggia surrounded by a deep
The lower story
consists of three bays divi-
ded by round arches and
supported by Ionic columns
of polished granite. Among
the chief ornamental fea-
tures are the basreliefs, exe-
cuted by Andrew O'Connor,
representing art and indus-

one sixty-

above

colonnaded

cornice.

made
by the company,which com-

try; a bronze frieze,

gg? hs x Batt series rs sae

passes the building between
the first and second stories
and the metal-
work and gilding of the cor-
nice. The entire first floor
is used as the principal
show room. It contains
ten thousand square feet;
the second floor, of similar
is also used for
the third is given over

art; the fourth to
the executive offices, and the
repair and sundry departments.

handsome

area, dis-
play;
to ecclesiastical
interests ; the fifth,
others to stock,
The basement contains ample vaults

The ceilings are all pretty,

wholesale

for special
storage purposes. that
of the first floor markedly so; the show cases are
of richly carved mahogany, and the gilded bronze-
work of cage, balustrade and elevator door exem-
plify the fine work in this way,done by the firm itself.

F. F. Fulcher, jeweler, of Great Barrington,
Mass., was a buyer in this city recently. Although
he has not been in business a very great while,
Mr. Fulcher reports a very satisfactory trade, with

T Ft eB

a)
ae
in hares

“a

prospects for a good business this fall and during

the coming holiday season,
The frequency with which
Robbers’ jewelry robberies have been
Perennial Activity committed or attempted in this
city for the past few months
suggests anew the need of constant and unremitting

vigilance on the part of store attendants, Every

se &# ee Ne $e PRN
s “a7 See RO eet hg peepee oat Pep
FP ke eters ee ve
pc ¢

The Gorham Mfg. Co,.’s New Building

especially those of the male sex,
must nowadays be searchingly scrutinized and the
must be unrelaxed if is to

for the wily sneak thief, the skillful sub-
and their more desperate brother,

strange visitor,
scrutiny be
effective,
stituter

always

who
grabs and runs, are ever on the watch for an un-
guarded moment. The thief, of
always have with us, but this makes the need of
caution all the more imperative. An example of
the saving value of quiet precaution would seem
to be afforded by the attempts recently made to
rob the store of Bernard Berkowitz, 15 Cooper
Square. A young man visited the place and ex-

course, we shall

KE YS T OLN EB

October, 1905
pressed a desire to see some diamond rings. Sev-

eral $5 rings were submitted, but he wanted some
ofa better quality. One worth $50 was shown,
but after he had inspected it he decided he would
take of the $5 variety, and requesting the
jeweler to lay one of these aside for him, he essayed
to leave, saying he would return for it in the even-
ing. To his consternation,

one

however, he was seized
by Mrs. Berkowitz, the mus-
cular and plucky wife of the
and with

having slipped on his finger

dealer, charged

and retained the $50 ring.
The lady’s husband came to
her assistance, a policeman
was soon on the scene and
the fellow placed under
arrest. To the magistrate
he said he had not intended
to steal the ring, as he had
paid a deposit of $5 on it.
He was ordered to return
the article to the jeweler,and
if he spoke the truth regard-
ing the payment of $5, to sue
the jeweler in case the latter
failed voluntarily to refund

Thus far there have been
no subsequent
ments. A dapper
man who twirleda
lessly, walked into Henry
Marronstein’s jewelry store,
at 523 Amsterdam Avenue,
on the evening of September
13th, at 6 o’clock, and told
the jeweler that he wanted
to look at rings and diamond
The jeweler spread

the counter,
young man in-
A. fine
the
hotel
manager, lay on the counter.
Jeweler Marronstein turned
his back a moment, and the
man grabbed the
ran out of the
The dealer followed,

develop-
young
cane care-

pins.
trayfuls on
the

spected carefully.

which
gold watch worth $600,

property of a local

young
watch and
store,
yelling at the top of his voice.
and
the West
Sixty-eighth Street station,

Detectives Coleman

Cummings, of

who were on the other side
of the the
commotion and ran across.

had
for

avenue, heard
been
waiting, apparently, the
thief, him
pate as he sprinted out of the

store. He threw the watch

away and it fell behind two

Two men who

sprang toward

The confederates saw the detectives
Coleman and Cummings
letting
station

ash barrels.
and took to their heels.
grabbed both jeweler and thief, the con-
federates get away. At the the
prisoner said he was Frederick Johnson, of 323 East
One Hundred and Twenty-third Street. He
that he had an appointment to take a girl to dinner
and the theater, and he hadn’t enough money to
make good. He
at Marronstein’s store,

police

said

thought he would take a chance
he said. He didn’t explain
about the confederates. Several other attempts
the trade during the
past month with varying success,

have been made to victimize

An Fxtenstve Line of Gold
Jewelry at Popular Prices

“HE ‘‘stamp of excellence’’ cover-
ing the extensive line of Jewelry we
offer to the Jobber gives him con-

fidence to buy without hesitation, well
knowing the ‘‘selling quality’’ of our
goods. The attention of the trade is
called to our line of

COLLAR SUrRrPOKIERS

An unusual assortment, artistic in design, color

=, me ee and finish. Special attention is called to our patent
\ <i kee adjustable clasp. It is possible to use this Supporter

on collars of different heights.

GROSS >

New suggestions in the various finishes — plain,
chased, Art Nouveau and artistic effects set with stones.

BRACE IIE LS

While our bracelet line is a comparatively new
acquisition, we are carrying a complete assortment in
plain and ornamental designs.

o3d—43 GOLD STREET, NEW YORK

)

> LEN SIs. 2 CO:

Salesroom and Offices
Diamond Department, 68 Nassau Street, New York
Diamond Cutting Works
142 West 14th Street, New York
Branch Offices: 103 State Street, Chicago, Ill.
29 Ely Place, London
12 Tulp Straat, Amsterdam

. : Meriden
Manning, Bowman Az Company, sirens

New York

Nickel and Silver Plate Pete ae Francisco

i : ° THE MAKING
Chafing Dishes ~ we.
oS KNOWN
a eee
> 9 Meteot
aie YY)
| IY Coffee Percolators
| y Gel Cle
Baking Di EB
aking Dishes, Etc.
| No. 269. CHAFING DISH OUTFIT
| All Chafing Dishes furnished with patent Seamless ‘‘ Ivory ”’
Enameled Food Pans if mentioned on orders. Pp . af "s .
a a rize | rophies a meee
Sectional View
hil “M. & B.” CHAFING DISH ALCOHOL Solid Copper with English Pewter “ METEOR ”
This ‘* Alcohol”? is especially prepared for use in Alcohol Mountings, and < AASTRTS Sees
| | ed cies Oat Sn (thas Tac 2 CIRCULATING COFFEE
| Lamps. Unequaled for use under Chafing Dishes, Coffee Perco- aia toe iene. PA aca ans ss
. | lator, etc. should be in the stock of all first-class dealers. English Pewter Throughout PERGOLATOR
ALWAYS insures Delicious Coffee
send for Catalogue No. 4o K, illustrating complete line and SAVES ONE-THIRD

The Automatic Eyeglass or Pencil Holder
THE SIMPLEX THIMBLES
WATCH DEMAGNETIZER Gold and Silver

ESTABLISHED 1832

|
| KETCHAM & MCDOUGALL
}

MANUFACTURERS

yyD}

GOLD & STERLING SILVER THIMBLES
AUTOMATIC EYEGLASS HOLDERS

37 ano3Q9 MAIDEN LANE,N.Y.

«ec >

| SEND FOR CATALOGUE E
SE ee ee eee

= a“

j
4

Self-contained—requires no outside current.

Automatic—switch prevents batteries from
burning out.

Portable—can be used anywhere.

Compact—size, 6 x 6 x 8; weight, 9 tbs.

Send for descriptive circular.

Price, $12 net, May be purchased through your

jobber.

Made in Gold, Silver, Rolled-Plate, Gun Metal, Royal Copper and
Black Enamel. Samples sent upon request

Cake Basket
Combination French Gray-Burnished Finish $3 75 List

No. 2527.

Rich clusters of grapes beautifully embossed constitute the border. The center is highly burnished and shades
imperceptibly into the dark gray of the leaves. The grapes are finished in a manner suggestive of
color. A platted vine with smaller grape ornamentation iorms the handle and feet

A Fragment of | Lincoln’s Philosophy

@ The truth of Abraham Lincoln’s homely maxim ‘‘ You can’t fool all the people all the
. time’ has always impressed us. It is the governing principle of our departments for
the manufacture of popular-priced goods.

@ We have consequently never attempted to thrust upon the people, by mere virtue of
cheapness, productions devoid of merit.

@, The artistic unity of the design here illustrated is characteristic.

@, Patterns conforming to the demand for popular prices are not less beautiful than those of
a more exclusive character. They are distinguished only by adaptation to modern
cost-reducing methods of manufacture.

@ We have devoted energy and initiative to the origination and perfecting of those methods,
and our assortments of such designs are more distinctive, more varied and of a higher
excellence than those of any other maker.

Remember that almost sixty years of popular acceptance
attest the integrity of Homan Plate

THE HOMAN MANUFACTURING COMPANY

Office, Factory and Salesroom

New York Salesroom, 32 Park Place Ci © « °
Chicago Salesroom, Silversmiths’ Building incinnati, Ohio

Boston Salesroom, Jewelers’ Building

SILVERWARE THAT SEELS

Latest design in the French Gray Finish

“7 P
= s AS,
a

~~ Fe

New York NS YN Yi Pal iS Chicago Office
Office XA \ | aN 1 3 Room 212

Room 43 — Va RR . » ae Silversmiths’

See . | ee di
Number 14 a Ny \ of suilding

131 Wabash Ave.

Maiden Lane

ROctRs Company
MARTFORD, CONN.

Twenty-five pieces now ready Send for new Catalogue No. 1o

WE ARE NOT IN THE TRUST

HIGHEST QUALITY DILVER=PLATED SWARE

Manufactured by

Simeon L. and George H. Rogers Company

Factories—Hartford and Wallingford, Conn. Hartford, Conn.

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Rockford Silver Plate

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Rockford,

fpf

1662

KE YS ba

(suaranteed 14 kK. 58) thousandths fine

Bascine—The relief work on the
backs and center of the case earved
out of massive stock. © size hunting.

Bascine—Art nouveau design carved
out of massive stock, the relief work
in the design beautifully modeled.
O size hunting,

Ros sy

Vv iY
=e \ Ww

«ay

Bascine—Relief work carved out of
massive stock, leaves beautifully
modeled, background of vermicelli
and moire. O size hunting.

Bascine—A very rich design. The
relief work is carved out of massive
stock. The background is moire in
rich tones, O size hunting,

G-1938
Bascine—Very bold design. Relief
work carved out of massive stock.
Background of fine quality of vermi-
celli. O size hunting,

Home or abroad, Keystone Solid Gold Cases are the best that money can buy or that brains and skill c: n make.
These

five O size cases show the new carved- -engraved effects, the very newest things from the engravers’ blocks,
inexpensive for work of this class. The re ‘lief work is cut out of massive backs.

not soldered on. (set your share early ;
everybody looks here for the good things, and there may be another famine in O size cases. Sure ly the supply will be
hard to kee ~p up on these remarkable designs. Sixteen size shown in /ewelers’

Circular of Se ‘ptember 27th.
AaB BORO Y Ss DOUN EW AG TC El ieee oc)

Philadelphia
Chicago

New York

Cincinnati
San Francisco

1663

F 2434 F 2809 F 2797

NEAT » ehe » .é j ] j } TC ‘ Y Lone . vat yy ‘ rh} 3 on e cae -
Bascine shape. oatin Bares niga Half ese allope d center, matching Bascine shape. Beautiful combina- Bascine shape. Bias engraved with
cut and Lindseape work, = Symunet- ornamentation on backs. I:ngine tion of circle lining, fancy engine center matching backs. Very effec-
rical and beautifully porportioned. turning and bright cut work. An turning and landscape work. tive. Plain parts are made both in
attractive combination. plain polish and satin finish.

Compare the Boss 25-Year Cases
with Solid Gold Cases

There is no marked difference except
in weight. Fitting, finish, design is all that
you can wish. Very highest class of work
possible to put on a watch case. Orna-

mentation fully up to the standard of solid

gold work. Modeled like solid gold cases.

Loolk at these new “O=cize “Cases——thic
daintiness of contour and delicacy of
freatment is exclusive to the Boss Cases:

‘reat demand. Your

—

SlUIre “EO. -e@reatee cue:

jobber has them now.

The Keystone Watch Case Co.

New York Philadelphia Cincinnati
Chicago San Francisco

1664

HOW ARD

COMPLETE WATCHES

YS Alb — ;
; ( Qe %
LS: f
te mar. ©
f 4
+

5 ae
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; atti? rey
v
* +
< . '¢

Made in 16 size only in
the following grades:

23 ruby and sapphire jewels (raised gold
settings) : adjusted to 5 positions, temper-
ature and isochronism; breguet hairspring;
micrometrie regulator; gold train wheels;
double Power : Stes | escapt W het Ms supphire
pallet stones; all steel parts highly finished;
extra fine, hand-made, double-sunk dial;

timed in the case and certificate of rating
furnished with each watch.

19 ruby and sapphire jewels (gold settings):
adjusted to 3 positions, temperature and
isochronism; breguet hairspring; micrometric
regulator: old center wheel; double roller;
stee| escape wheel: sapphire pallet STONES ; all
steel parts highly finished; extra fine, hand-
made, double-sunk dial; timed in the case
and certificate of rating furnished with each
watch.

17 ruby and sapphire jewels (gold settings) ;
adjusted to 3 positions and temperature;
breguet hairspring; micrometric regulator;
gold center wheel; double roller; steel escape
wheel; sapphire pailet stones: all steel parts
highly finished ; extra fine, hand-made, double-
sunk dial; timed in case.

17 ruby and sapphire jewels (gold settings);
adjusted to temperature; breguet hairspriny;
micrometriec regulator; gold ceuter wheel; steel
escape wheel; sapphire pallet stones; all steel
parts highly finished; extra fine, hand-made
dial; timed in case.

It is impossible to emphasize

ADJUSTMENT

too strongly the importance

of adjustment. Perfection

of mechanical construction is labor lost without adjustment,

just as adjustment would be worthless in a watch of faulty

construction. Adjustment makes the watch, although it 1s
not a visible feature. Adjustment is the one thing that can-
not be added or aided by machinery; the timekeeping quality
that may be imparted only by the skill of the human hand,
directed by a scientific knowledge of the subject supported
by years of practical experience, It is all handwork
based on precise calculations, done by men whose
services are invaluable and who are rarely to be

had. It is the costly part of a fine watch.

In the feature of adjustment Howard Watches excel.
The effort and care put into the adjustment of Howard
Watches we believe to be the limit of useful endeavor in
watch manufacture: We Know .there is no other watch of
such real worth and value at the price we put on it. [he
time card sent with each 19 and 23-jewel Howard Watch
indicates the faithful work of our adjusters and as well fore-
casts the good such a sale will do in building your reputation.
Write to us for book giving full descriptions and prices at
which the Howard Complete Watches are sold to the public;

also list of jobbers from whom they may be obtained.

E. HOWARD WATCH CO., Waltham, Mass.

October, 1905

4 PROVIDENCE.

and>

ORATALEB OR 0. Ss)

An unique evidence of the

President Holbrook happy relations which exist
Honored between the Gorham Mfg. Co.
and its employees was fur-

nished last month upon the occasion of a visit paid
to the company’s factory, at Providence, by its
president, Edward Holbrook. A singularly-pleas-
ant surprise awaited Mr. Holbrook in the
form of a testimonial, artistically con-
ceived, beautifully illuminated and cor-
dially expressive of the horfor and esteem
in which the recipient is held by the fifteen
subscribers, to wit, William C. Codman,
head of the designing department, his
ingenious subordinates and J. F. P.
Lawton, who has achieved many triumphs
in connection with the printing and pub-
lishing of the company’s books and other
compilations. The testimonial was de-
signed and executed by Mr. Codman, with
Messrs. Kingman and Barrett as collabora:
tors. Itis an art work of its kind, both in
outline and embellishment. Its pleasing
color tones, impossible of photographic
reproduction, and handsome ornamenta-
tion recall the glories of the ancient manu-
scripts. The top left-hand building onthe
document is the establishment of the com-
pany at Nineteenth Street and Broadway,
New York; the structure to the right of
this is the palatial edifice recently opened
by the firm at Fifth Avenue and Thirty-
sixth Street, in the last-named city, while
the Providence factory occupies the lower
portion. The center base contains the
cross of the Legion of Honor awarded by
the French Republic to Mr. Holbrook in
1900. The sunflower which dominates
the decoration was chosen as symbolizing
happiness, and the clover leaf and blossom
as typifying prosperity. The figure onthe
upper left-hand corner panel represents
the process of die-sinking, that on the par-
allel panel designing, while the left-hand
bottom panel represents the chasing pro-
cess, and that on the right, silversmithing.
Subdued green, yellow, rose and gold are
harmoniously blended in the color scheme.
A quiet boom is reported in

North Attleboro’s the jewelry business of North
Trade Boom Attleboro. A constant stream
of orders, it is said, has been

coming in from the West for the past few weeks,
with the result that manufacturers have been
enlarging their productive forces. The Attleboro
Sun cites an instance illustrating the pressing need
for operatives at this time. E. Ira Richards &
Co., North Attleboro, hired an old-time jewelry
worker named Thomas F. Lynch, who, according
to the paper mentioned, is no less than seventy-
eight years old. He has been out of the business
for some years, but he volunteered to go back for a
few months in order to assist in taking care of this
almost unprecedented trade. Mr. Lynch is em-
ployed as a scratch-brusher, and despite his age, is
able to do a good day’s work. The Suz adds:
“It looks more like the old days to see so much
jewelry business. At the present time several
factories are running until 7 and 9 o’clock even-

WEEE

o me Hon ee will lor ii Or ul Lie.. ify

ings in order to keep up with the orders, and it
will not be long before others will be forced to
swing into line. This excellent jewelry business
has its effect in all branches of trade, and the
merchants reporta substantial increase in their
revenues.”’

Roswell C. Smith, well known in the Provi-
dence trade, and chairman of the executive com-
mittee of the New England Manufacturing Jewelers’
and Silversmiths’ Association, despite the protests
of his constituents and many friends, has with-
drawn, at least temporarily, from active participa-
tion in politics, and, therefore, will not be a
candidate for re-election to the Providence Com-

tie then We the men enparea oft the Deagning.Ds Department of of the the ‘Goran OF - x

— Company desire &y0-o hereby express Our appreciation. ace Lut | Sah We
tirmg ef forts dari ddring the mar Many years whieh youhave: devoted tothe eee
gs ithe ee

welfare aid upbuilding of F thi is Company ands $0 “successful b haves
those ¢ efforts hee heya} th that your appree *eehutioy) ai and Jove for the beautiful eS.

nBiverte erware b have aava INCE 3 ) the craft. of ailyersiithing & C weraer i EWFY aoe

eration ans the boii jos given you m all countries are. wel) RED i}
Sores ackyow onant s off your 2 marked ability.
a We desire to express our sinecre Hiaipks flor your us uipiforn mm:
4) courlew aie 3 encouragement which b bas ‘always shanjulcbed os us to do
au beat

* Fidlaent Fy. VWekurcte

Tred ore ik
a i OL! Lhiat bar 5

Fhe Aa ithe Cr rv |p

Bidaws CO Lolatue:

| Senge tse

Sm Spee See, et

Testimonial presented to Pres. Edward Holbrook, of the Gorham Mfg. Co,

mon Council, Last year Mr. Smith had deter-
mined upon a like course, but in due deference to
the wishes of his political admirers, he altered his
purpose. Now, however, he is firm in his decision
to exclusively devote himself to his business inter-

ests, the demands of which are constantly in-
creasing.

The directors of the First Na-
New Bank tional Bank met on September
Officials 18th, and elected Clarence L.

Watson as presidert to fill the
vacancy caused by the death of J. M. Bates.
Charles-R. Bates, elder son of the late president,
was elected a director to fill the vacancy on the
board of directors caused by the death of his
father. No other business of public interest was
transacted at the meeting. The directors present
were: C. L. Watson, Albert A. Bushee, John W.
Wolfenden, James E. Blake, Harvey Clap, David
Makepeace, R. M. Horton, E. A. Sweeney and
C, H. Tappan.

KX &-yY S TF. O N E&

xu beat. Wewish you bug te 19-bappijess and that your devo- Me 2?

1665

The Providence Jewelry Co. is the name of a
concern that has recently been incorporated under
the laws of the State of Rhode Island. The com-
pany’s object is to manufacture jewelry, the capital
stock is $50,000, andthe incorporators are: J. L.
Records, Harry Cutler and Theodore Loveland.
The Wightman & Hough Co.,
Providence, is now rounding
out its fiftieth year of existence,
and already preparations are
being made to fittingly commemorate the estab-
lishment of the firm. In a review of the com-
pany’s history the Providence journal states that
in 1856 it had a shop in the top of the Richardson
& Hicks Building, on Friendship Street,
between Richmond and Page, and the part-
ners were A. Augustus Wightman and
Walter S. Hough. Before the war a gen-
eral line of jewelry was manufactured in
addition to lockets. The business was
profitable until 1861, when the jewelry trade
was demoraliznd by the war. Mr. Wight-
man went to the battleground and Mr.
Hough became foreman of the Burnside
Rifle Works. The jewelry, tools and ma-
chinery were stored for a time till Mr.
Wightman returned to Providence, and
business was resumed in the old quarters.
In 1873 the business was removed to the
G. & S. Owen Building, at the corner of
Snow and Chapel Streets. In 1875 the
product was limited to lockets. In January,
1893, Mr. Wightman died, and his interest
was purchased by Mr. Hough, who, with
his son, Edward B. Hough, applied for a
Rhode Island charter for the incorporation
of the Wightman & Hough Co. In 1896
the increase of business necessitated larger
quarters, and the company removed to the
fourth floor of the Manufacturers’ Building,
on Beverly Street, where two shops cover
gooo feet of floor space. The firm is con-
sidered the largest in the country making a
specialty of lockets.

R. F. Simmons Company, the well-
known chain manufacturers, of Attleboro,
will mail to the retail trade, postage free,
upon request, an attractive advertisement
for the Simmons product in the form of a
‘*posterette,’’ bearing an appropriate illus-
tration entitled, ‘‘The Ideal Gift.’’ It
measures 1134 x I5 inches, is handsomely
colored, and is mounted on a tinted and
pebbled mat. Its special function is to
attract admiration in the show window, and
this it has all the necessary qualities to fulfill. It
is much of an improvement even on the beautiful
posters this company prepared some time ago.

The Irons & Russell Relief Association, a
philanthropic and mutually beneficial body, com-
posed of the employees of the firm named, held
the‘r aunual outing on Saturday, September 16th,
on the pleasant grounds of the Warwick Club.
Thither they journeyed on a special car, and upon
arrival partook of a delicious dinner, after which
they held a formal husiness meeting, with Alfred
Williams in the chair. Reports were submitted
by the officers which showed the association to be
in a satisfactory condition both as to membership
and finances. At the conclusion of the meeting a
series of athletic contests were held, the most
interesting being a baseball game between the
bachelors and the married men. he single men
were victorious, but despite the advantages of
bachelorhood they were only one point to the
good, the score being 6 to 5.

A Forthcoming
Anniversary

PSA TSS ET POEEL EPL SITE SES ERT Per)
SSlleline as SURE th eel ete tenes eee eee te amet eeeeeen ea alee heehee ee sseeeee eee SE ae SLU w a sathieeatiae tee behieltete tis ste des sscstessee ere Eat eeew te, see, emtlee ye tetsiste Seu teh etenttrst see Lees athe set bette esses teeete setige atehencsattent 5 ace esl etane hives ss atccese teas testatten site ttatel tristesssraly ates
Pe ee ee ee ee
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PARE NES EL ES Se ESTP A PE PEO ALE SPR LL TA EL SL Pee Pe eeaT eE SSS PEE SERA LTT ee YTS EE a Pi LES Se ELIAS LP be LY SETTERS EE SSIES ERM TIPE MTN PERL Tee IL MES She Lee
PSA MIA ES LTTE RTI E ee Pee te eee ete erates el tat alte tanta seers st Ot EO SecA e th eA Eira otis scolar sited tee * ¢ ete yipiiesss ove ° eens aette et etet atte asses eecete’
TROIS SSS LEP ITE EET OM TIESTO PTT EEE I See eee oe ee be RT Ph YT St bert et be SEE Se Re MET et er ee Tee |
PLATA LL ETS ett ee ee eS TIS tte ete nee Ee SE Pee TS Pe mie Pe LAN Se ASS ey ETN ee ee ee
STRAIT MARLEE PALS SERA EEL MCSE dee ah PL As be Py lel Pane LAN TY
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GEO. B. BARRETT CO.

Soe tetee
I fae celts

AO Bey
Erect maak:
fos sess’

/ New Stock For FALL AND

eee
Cll ae GD ee se Gn I te ew Oe I re I a NT | a a ONE ee a oe | it ies) § ~lldia)
ct eteeee
** .

FIOLIDAY TRADE |

eres
hinegte
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spose:
erate A
att o

_ Accurately informed as to the requirements of the -

. trade tor the coming Fall and Holiday Season, we have a
. now ready for inspection the largest and most carefully .

| _ selected stocks ever placed at the disposal of our patrons. .
| _ These stocks include the latest ideas—-models, -
a styles and patterns—1in all the standard lines of goods: .

.
rer teeta
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ateeee

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wine ppp eM I eS US, SS
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te taate vergeise
ae Rel Dp Pg a ee ie ee ef) cgi.

DIAMONDS

erapeskts

teste"

_ WATCHES, CLOCKS, MATERIALS, JEWELRY, |

: SILVERWARE, NOVELTIES, Etc. :

Pore

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. Whatever the character or extent of your needs in |

a these lines, we are in a position to furnish same promptly —s | 7

oS and to greatest advantage.
_ Orders sent by mail will be carefully filled and L

shipped same day as received. -

SrA

eosssees
Ratios
trae

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Bohs
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a a a a a a a a aaa aaa, Pm

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£3;
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ee patel:

q GEO. B. BARRETT CO. '
- WHOLESALE JEWELERS 347 FIFTH AVENUE
e AND DIAMOND IMPORTERS PITTSBURG. PA a

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October, 1905

Trade conditions among the
A Bright Outlook jewelers of the Pittsburg dis-

trict promise a very satisfactory
falland winter season. The reports from salesmen
in the vicinity of the city and throughout the
neighboring States, indicate a strong tendency
among the retailers to buy quite freely, and while
stocks are probably small compared with what has
been customary in the past few years, the very
conservatism shown indicates a healthy condition.
The jewelry business is nothing if not sympathetic
with the financial and stock markets. The indus-
trial situation is bright. The employment of all
grades of labor is on a large scale and wages have
improved materially. Skilled mechanics are being
sought for in many of the larger establishments,

and bankers report a fairly easy money market.

The opening of the annual exposition, which draws
so many thousands to the old point district of
Pittsburg, has brought strangers to the city in vast
numbers. Heeren Brothers & Company have on
exhibition there this season a somewhat different
collection of art ware than heretofore. Last
season the bronzes displayed took up all of the
space. This season other art goods are shown, all
the imported kind and some of rare beauty of
form and finish.

Manager J. F. Montgomery, of
M. A. Mead & Co., and his office
staff are already feeling at home
in Pittsburg. They find the
jewelry trade in this city somewhat different from
that in Chicago, but the difference is pleasing in
many respects. In spite of the fact that the com-
pany’s offices here have been opened buta short
time, they are well satisfied with the progress
made. The watch trade, of the Pittsburg district
has, like the general run of jewelry, been a little
quiet during the summer months. The falling off
has been mainly due, it is believed, to the some-
what slow recovery of the buying public, after the
depressed conditions, and possibly to the further
fact that the high cost of living is taking up
much of the surplus cash of the people.

Among the
Local Trade

The usual fall display of stock
is being
made in a refreshing manner.
Cut glass has been pushed for-
ward in this manner, and some fine displays have
In silverware, new designs of stand-

Rich Displays in the show windows

of Stock

been shown.
ard articles are abundant, while china and decora-
ted ware are playing a most important part in the
stocks of the dealers. A good many of the stores
are still endeavoring to attract attention to the
mission clocks of various sizes and designs, and
find this profitable. Leather goods are conspic-
uous, and the finer electroliers are being shown to
good advantage. The theatrical season has just
fairly opened, and with the additional element of
the Belasco syndicate in the field, has made the
outlook more interesting from a social stand-
point, for it gives Pittsburg another first-class
play house.

The social season has opened
Social Season with brilliant promises. At
Favors the Jeweler Jeast this is the prediction of

social sages and those watch-
ing events closely, All these things have a bear-
ing on the jewelry trade, and are watched with

THE

more or less interest. The Pittsburg orchestra
season is to be lengthened somewhat, and so is the
grand opera season. Golf and tennis are nearing
an end for the present year, and both have taken
up much time among the social set. The only dull
spot on the commercial horizon is in the mining
fields. The coal trade has had a burden all year,
and no special activity has marked that branch of
Pittsburg industries. The miners are not as pros-
perous Owing to the intermittent operation of the
mines and the severe competition in the Northwest
trade. Just what relation this industry has to the
jewelry trade is perhaps best indicated by the fact
that during the past month, a miner’s home was
robbed by burglars near Pittsburg, and three
articles of jewelry taken valued at nearly $400.
Such families may not be numerous, but neither
are they rare.

Interest is centered at this time

New Installment in the rapid development of

House the installment trade among
the jewelers. The Pittsburg

district has only recently developed along this line
to any serious extent, and the latest addition to
the installment dealers is Loftus Jewelry Company
of Chicago, which has opened a branch in Pitts-
burg. By a coincidence, in searching for a suitable
location, the company came upon the handsome
store that had just been fitted up for the Prosser
Optical Company, on Sixth Street, and had only
been occupied for a few weeks before a disruption
occurred in the company and the place was closed
out. The Loftus Company took over the store and
its fine optical equipment, and retained Mr. Prosser
as manager of the optical department which has
been added to the business. Jewelers who have
been through the establishment, regard the new
place as one of the best appointed stores both as
to fixtures and arrangement in the country. The
arrangement of the interior is out of the ordinary,
lacking the usual stiffness of the jewelry shops,
and with easy seats and center tables for the
examination of stock.

Active plans are being prepared
by Gillespie Brothers for further
inprovements in their handsome
store in the Park Building, In
addition to a new diamond room, which had been
planned earlier but not installed during the sum-
mer, the house is adding much more shelf room
and many handsome cases, some of which will
surround large columns in the center of the sales-
room. The cut glass department is to be enlarged
and a much larger stock of this line is to be
carried this year than ever before. Regarding the
trade conditions for the past season, the firm views
the summer as one of the most satisfactory it has
experienced, Business has held up well and the
fall is brighter. Buying for the holiday trade has
been generous, and estimates place the stock to be
carried at fully double former years. Of course
the store is larger, but the general tone of business
seems to warrant the expansion.

Suggestive
Improvements

The optical trade has been
enjoying improved conditions
with the approach of the fall
season. Aside from the usual
demand for opticians’ regular lines, the popular
call for improved forms of frames has given an
added interest to the business, and has given also
a basis for considerable advertising. There has
been much competition in some of the optical
specialties by the extension of stocks in depart-
ment stores, and as a rule the trade is avoiding the
cheaper stocks and carrying only the standard
lines.

Optical Trade
Satisfactory

REY S TON &

1667

A. A. Gillespie has returned from his Euro-
pean trip, which was both for business and pleas-
ure. The stock of imported ware that Mr. Gilles-
pie has brought back with him has not reached
Pittsburg yet, but will be opened during the month.
As to fads and fancies for the season, interest is
apparently awakening in the new lamp globes for
chandeliers and electroliers, some of the newer
designs having been quickly crowded into popular
favor. C. B. F. Gillespie is on a trip to the Pacific
Coast, and has written home with numerous
souvenirs of his journey, one being a little bag of
gold ore from Colorado. P. C. Gillespie is in New
York ona buying trip. F. F. Lang, of the same
house, is congratulating, himself on the completion
of his new home, which he has been building all
summer.

Traveling men are thick in Pittsburg this
season, and they come from all directions. Among
these men on the road, there is a cheery disposi-
tion, in discussing the outlook for the coming
season. They are pretty good judges, too, and
measure up conditions pretty closely.

Tampering With Credit

Credit is cheap. This is proverbial, but has it
occurred to the average mercha..t that the principle
on which credit is based—confidence—may be so
abused that credit is seriously weakened if not
entirely destroyed? To obtain credit integrity of
purpose is the first essential. However efficient
the merchant, without integrity of purpose his
credit can not be A 1. He who contracts an
indebtedness and makes no provision or effort to
meet his obligation when due, but relies on excuses
and begs for extensions, has no real integrity of
purpose. Whena bill of goods is purchased ona
specified time it is expected that the obligation will
be met when due. If through some good cause it
cannot be met, the contracting party is under obli-
gation to notify his creditors of the necessity of an
extension, naming a reasonable time when he can
and will meet the obligation.

How often do we find, however, that the mer-
chant, instead of so doing, allows his bills to
mature with no explanation why payment Is with-
held, paying no attention to notices of draft to be
drawn on some future dates, never writing or
requesting that draft be withheld or setting forth
reasons why, but allowing draft to be drawn, pre-
sented and returned without comment. Such
action will surely weaken if not ultimately under-
mine the credit of the merchant. Credit to a man
of business is what chastity is toa woman: Neither
can afford to be fooled with.

A Remarkable Metal

Although the existence of tantalum, the new
material employed for incandescent lamp filaments,
has been known for a hundred years, it is only very
recently that the metal has been prepared in a pure
state. This is effected with the aid of the electric
furnace. Tantalum combines extreme ductility
with extraordinary hardness. When red-hot it is
easily rolled into sheets or drawn into wire, but
upon being heated a second time and then ham-
mered it becomes so hard that it has been impossible,
with a diamond drill, to bore a hole through a sheet
only one millimeter thick. Such a drill, working
day and night for three days, at five thousand rev-
olutions per minute, made a depression only a
quarter of a millimeter deep, and the diamond
point was badly worn.

Me R., L. & M. FRIEDLANDER

Wholesale Jewelers

Importers of Diamonds 30 Maiden Lane, New York City

Jobbers in American Watches

R., L. & M. FRIEDLANDER, 30 Maiden Lane, New York

These are specimen pages from our New Ring Catalogue, known as the Monarch Catalogue No. 61, which will be ready shortly.

Send business card for same.

Do not make your holiday purchases until you see one of our representatives or our Complete Watch,
Diamond and Jewelry Monarch Catalogue No. 60. If in New York City, call upon us and we will
gladly show you the finest line of WATCHES, DIAMONDS and JEWELRY carried by any
wholesale house. Please note that our name does not appear in any of the catalogues we publish.

October, 1905

OORT seemmmonnnaer ee se

escansaienanivinats

The fall business began unusually early in this
city this year, and the outlook for the holiday sea-
son is of the brightest. In fact a general belief
prevails that the jewelers will enjoy during the next
six or seven weeks the greatest business in the
history of the trade. Preparations on an unusually
large scale are being made, and high-grade goods
are in special favor.

A. Dobrowsky, of Redding, Cal., found it
necessary to come to town to replenish his stock,
as he had an unusual rush in the last two months.
The large line of goods that he purchased while in
this market will make an attractive exhibit in his
show cases, and will find a ready market between
now and the holidays.

H. A. Minnasian, retail jeweler, of Sutter
Creek, Cal., spent a few days calling upon his
friends in town recently, and purchased a line of
jewelry suitable to the tastes of his customers in
this old mining section.

Mr. Smith, buyer for Smith Bros., the Visalia
retailer jewelers, was among the out-of-town buy-
ers here last month, and returned home greatly
benefited, as the cool climate of our invigorating city
is quite a relief to the heat of Mr. Smith’s section.

Alphonse Judis Co. have added another clerk
to their office force, having accepted the services of
Louis Cahn, formerly in the employ of the late
Emile Hirschfeld and Wolff Bros., in this city.
Mr. Cahn will be employed in the stock depart-
ment and will look after the interests of the visiting
retailers.

J. M. McGee, formerly in business in Cherokee,
Iowa, was in town last month with his family. Mr.
McGee spent a few days visiting the wholesale
trade, and incidentally looked over this territory
with the purpose of settling somewhere on the
Pacific Coast, ina jewelry and optical establishment.

Mr. Boss, who has looked after the city trade
of A. I. Hall & Son for the last two years, is now
making his initial trip out of town, and it is need-
less to say that he is meeting with success, as his city
experience is of the best. While his many friends
among the retailers in town are sorry to part with
him, they are pleased with his advancement.
J. Valentine is filling Mr. Boss’ old position, and is
next in line for an out-of-town position. This
wholesale house has graduated quite a few success-
ful traveling representatives from their city salesmen
in the past, having advanced five of their city men
to the road in the last few years.

Mr. Dana, manager of the watch department
of Shreve & Co., of this city, is visiting friends in
his old home city, Brooklyn, N. Y., and will look
over the Eastern market for high-class novelties
suitable for the holidays. Mr. Dana expects to be
back in about a month or six weeks.

R. F. Allen, of Morgan & Allen, of 134 Sutter
Street, is now visiting the Eastern manufacturing
concerns that he represents on the Pacific Coast,
and will be away from his usual haunts for two
months, as he contemplates calling on his friends,
the retailers, in his territory before returning to
San Francisco. He will show them a large assort-
ment of goods suitable for the holiday trade.

S. Conradi, president of the Conradi Co.,
located at Second and South Spring Streets, Los
Angeles, Cal., spent a few days recently visiting
the first-class jewelry stores in this city, looking for

T EE

new ideas in up-to-date furnishings, as he is about
to increase the size of his store, by taking in an-
other store adjoining his original location. After
the intervening wall is removed, Mr. Conradi
will fit up the interior in a first-class manner, and
we feel safe in saying it will compare favorably
with any of the jewelry stores, in this city of palatial
jewelry establishments.

Harry Frutig, one of the leading retail jewelers,
of Gilroy, Cal., was among the out-of-town trades-
men in this market recently, and purchased a nice
line of ready sellers for his fall trade.

O. M. Howard, watch inspector, Southern
Pacific Railroad, located at 308 Hayes Street, is
receiving the congratulations of his friends in the
trade, upon the recent addition to his family. The
stork visited his home on August 30th, and we are
pleased to report that the young lady and her
mother are doing nicely.

M. Saier, one of the old retail jewelers, of Fres-
no, called upon his friends in the trade in this city
recently, and posted himself upon the newest things
in the market, gathering up a large line of staples
for his patrons’ future wants.

Eugene Wachhorst, of the H. Wachhorst Co.,
the oldest retail jewelers in Sacramento, was in
town on a fall-buying trip recently, accompanied
by his wifeand family. Eugene reports business in
the capital city as being in a first-class condition,
and predicts a holiday season second to none.

M. Schussler & Co. have accepted the services
of Arthur J. Prouty, as traveling representative,
making a total of five trade producers traveling for
this house. Mr. Prouty has started upon his initial
trip for his new house, and the boys in the office
are kept busy filling his orders.

Ed. Fano, the hustling retail jeweler, of San
Diego, was among the tradesmen in this market
last month on a holiday-buying trip.

J. G. Donavan, buyer of the Donavan Co.,
one of the leading retail jewelry establishments on
South Spring Street, Los Angeles, called upon his
friends in the wholesale jewelry district last month
and selected a large line of novelties for his fall
trade. Mr. Donavan reports business in the south-
ern section of the Pacific Coast as the best in its
history, and looks forward to a very large trade
during the Christmas holidays.

FE. Haas, of Stockton, called upon his friends
in the wholesale jewelry trade in San Francisco
recently, and purchased a full line of jewelry for
his holiday trade.

Frederick H. Satterwhite, who is connected
with the new firm of Manson & Ray, San Bernar-
dino, Cal., returned from an Eastern sight-seeing
trip recently, and called upon the wholesale jewelers
in this city while en route for the South.

Geo. F. Blakeslee, of Goldfield and Tonopah,
Nev., was among the visiting tradesmen in this
market last month, and spent a very pleasant time
calling upon his many friends among the wholesale
jewelers.

Chas. Noack, who conducts one of the leading
retail stores in Sacramento, found it necessary to
come to town to replenish his stock last month, as
the Native Son celebration held in the capital city
on admission day was very profitable for Charles,
the visiting purchasers depleting his stock of staples
considerably.

J. B. Williams, the Susanville retailer, is up
and around again, after an eight-weeks’ attack of
typhoid fever. Mr. Williams recuperated in this
city and returned home greatly benefited by our
bracing climate. This gentleman while in this
market purchased a new line of holiday novelties
for his fall season,

Roe yY- Ss F-O N EB

1669

Harry B. Oberlin, of Fresno, was in town ona
buying tour last month, and his new show cases
will show the results of his selections, as he has
purchased a large line of new, up-to-date, salable
novelties for his holiday trade.

Geo. H. Cook, of the firm of that name, who
conducts two stores in Prescott and Phoenix,
Arizona, paid this market a visit last month, and
incidentally looked over the wholesale jewelers’
stocks, for money producers for the holiday season.

EF. M. Ackley, manager of the Chinn-Beretta
Optical Co.’s, Stockton, Cal., establishment, was
in San Francisco with his family recently, spending
a well-earned vacation, and incidentally called upon
his many friends in the jewelry and optical trade
while here.

James Montgomery, of Montgomery Bros.,
retail jewelers, of South Spring Street, Los Angeles,
Cal., is soon expected home, after making his
annual purchasing trip to the wholesale jewelry
centers in the East, where he gathered a fine new
line of novelties for his holiday season.

H. Richard Condy, the retail jeweler, of Grass
Valley, Cal., has improved his establishment by
installing an entire new set of show cases and wall
fixtures, which gives his store a fine appearance,
and enables him to give more floor space to his
customers. Mr. Condy is building up a fine busi-
ness in his thriving mining section, and looks
forward to a banner holiday trade.

Herman H. Hadenfeldt, of the wholesale firm
of Rothschild & Hadenfeldt, after many delays,
due to scarcity of labor, has moved into his new
domicile on the hills of Piedmont. Herman will
be greatly missed hereafter around his old haunts
in San Francisco.

A. Eisenberg, the wholesale jeweler, of 126
Sutter Street, has purchased a new palatial resi-
dence in the coming section of the city, with a fine
marine view overlooking the world-famed Golden
Gate. His friends are singing the praises of the
house and congratulating Mr. Eisenberg: upon his
good judgment in this last real estate deal.

How Courtesy Pays

‘“Courtesy pays,’’ said a merchant who em-
ploys many clerks. ‘‘I am almost inclined to
place it at the head of the list of virtues in an
employee of mine. I have known men of what
you would term ‘ordinary’ capacity to succeed
because they observed the rule of uniform polite-
ness and deferential regard for other people’s
feelings, when their fellow-workmen, depending
on their ‘genius’ and appropriating the license of
genius themselves, fairly did themselves out of
good opportunities by surly mannerisms.

‘‘T don’t thing it occurs to the average man
that a word on this topic is necessary in what we
are often pleased to call ‘this enlightened age.’
Yet, if you will take account of your next hundred
transactions with the minor employees with whom
you come in contact, you’ ll find that may be seventy-
five of them have room for improvement in this
one particular. You meet the manager of a store ;
you find him, most times, everything you could
desire. Andas you go down the line the difference
is marked. The ‘fresh’ clerk in the cigar store is
ten times as touchy and as fearful that his dignity
will be injured by unbending as the man who
makes it possible for him to hold a job. The
jewelry salesman who puts ona patronizing way
when he learns that you have only $50 to spend
with the firm will probably never wear many
diamonds, to say nothing of importing them,’ ’

Do Not Miss

the opportunity of
looking over my lines
Of. [WE LR Y,
put out this season
ior the ali liade

The Most Exclustve and Varied

Assortment

in Roll Plate

14 karat

ever shown in New Eneland or the Middle States.

Give me atrial order

for material. I carry

a complete line of all kinds of watchmakers’ and

jewelers’ supplies.

JOSEPH

COWAN

Manufacturing Jeweler

|
:
10 and
|

351 Washington St.

BOSTON, MASS.

10K. Scarf Pins

Designs and
Prices Right

Our New
Catalog ie
Will Assist you
in Fall Selections

Scofield & DeWyngaert

NEW YORK OFFICE, 9=11 Maiden Lane

Newark, N. J.

KLEIN SCHOOL OF OPTICS
185 Summer St., Boston, Mass.

The only Optical School in the world where
students serve a regular apprenticeship on
bench andin office. All instructions are prac-
tical. Fees, $75.00 for whole course. No
correspondent courses. Address,

Klein School of Optics
185 Summer St., Boston, Mass.

NOTICE OF RENMNIOVAL

The Emblem Jewelry Manufacturing Co.
D. GOLDWASSER
Jewelry Manufacturers, Diamond Mounting and
Gem Setting, has removed to

toom 87, Jewelers’ Building
373 Washington Street, Boston, Mass,
Fine Repairing, Medals, Jewels, Badges, School
and Class Pins and Rings.

& uqutEScherer
if, ENGRAVER ¥y'

ROOMS 71-72
373 WASHINGTON ST., BOSTON

\ JEWELERS BLDG

I employ six engravers the
Aj year round. Can give prompt atten-
@ 4

PRECRIPTION OPTICIAN
Promptness and Accuracy

Don’t forget that there is more
than one place in New England
where they do Standard IX Work.
Our shop is up to date. Try us.

EBEN HARDY
Room 405 21 Bromfield St., Boston
Telephone 4897—8 M.

Makers of

TOWER axa STREET CLOCKS

For particulars, write us, mentioning
THE KEYSTONE

E. HOWARD CLOCK CO.

Est’d 1842

WE DON’T CLAIM TO COVER THE EARTH

but our New England customers
that fills their |}; work with
A trial will convince YOU.

know that there is no other house
more promptness or accuracy.

C. A. L. LANGTON, Manufacturing Optician

Write or phone,

419 Boylston Street, BOSTON

BOSTON, MASs., U.S.A.

Watchmaker to the
Trade

Istablished 1895 4 I’xperienced Assistants

Watches Demagnetized
Repairing of all kinds

JOHN S. LOWELL

373 Washington Street
BOSTON

Jewelers’ Building, Room 71-2

y i i i i i i Hy
2 TT TIT TE MOAT RTE AT CE

q| Ve
= lk
7x i
Pray ys
x ¥
sy = rom
or Manufacturer of y
.<-

“ DIAMOND
MOUNTINGS
and JEWELRY

PLATINUM WORK A SPECIALTY

AR OU AOL OU AL ATR A oT)

Dealer in Precious and
Bt! Imitation Stones

i i i i
VT TE EOI
. . - ‘- , .

Stone Setting and Repairing
a Specialty

i
BMT KW IEA IE.
. - . .

4 * * K

New Washington Building x

4 ; a eS
| 38% Washington St., Room 705 |*
74

-> -“~<-
A *
{| vetepnone Boston, Mass. |?
t\ ke ia
x 1¥ ALK L* A AK AA ae AY FAK ALK KR

When writing to advertisers, kindly
mention The Keystone

BARRON’S

R WORK for the trade satisfies.
Returned same day as received.
Send for the best AXIS and FRAME-
LESS chart ever printed.
GEORGE A. BARRON
Manufacturing and Refracting Optician
Room 22, 3 Winter St., BOSTON

PESERECRRERESESETCR REA S EG ORDA RRR R ORR R RARE Eee eee
BRRSERESTARE LRAT ERE R TERE ROR RRRRERESE RRR Ree eee

FIRST-CLASS

JEWELRY REPAIRING

FOR THE TRADE

CIAMOND SETTING
SFECIAL ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED
MASONIC JEWELS
FINE HAND CARVING

HARRY SMITH

JEWELERS’ BUILDING, ROOM 76 TEL. 1795-4 MAIN

373 WASHINGTON ST., BOSTON
y)

F. Schnetzer, Jr., & Son

Watch Case Repairers

Watch Case
Materials

Gold Plating and
Coloring

Especial attention given to Watch Case
Repairing, Springing, Re-Engine Turn-
ing, Engraving, Polishing, ete.
Particular attention paid to Orders by
I-xpress.

21 Bromfield Street, Boston, Mass.
Room 508

October, 1905

From the manufacturers in Providence and the
Attleboros come the most encouraging reports
in regard to fall trade. Many of the factories are
working nights to catch up with their orders,
while nearly all are working some extra time. In
fact, the whole manufacturing district seems im-
bued with new courage, and with the present pros-
pects of large western crops all are looking forward
to a record-breaking fall business. Manufacturers
are badly handicapped this year by a shortage of
capable and efficient workmen; almost all are
advertising for help. The manufacturers cannot
offer all of the help employment the whole year
round, and asa result the workmen find themselves
for a good part of the year obliged to seek other
employment. This condition has existed for some
years past, but continuous expansion in the cost of
living has necessitated a change by many. Although
while working they receive very fair salaries, many
saw the advisability of entering some trade which
gave them work the year round. It is to these
causes that many manufacturers attribute the pre-
sent dirth of efficient workmen. The retail
jewelers evidently incline toward the opinions
of the manufacturers, as it is due to their heavy
fall purchases that the manufacturers are so rushed.
The return of the vacationists has increased sales
to a considerable extent, in fact, to a greater ex-
tent than was generally anticipated. The jobbing
houses report fine business in all their different
lines, the diamond business particularly showing
new life and increased sales.

Again crooks are creating havoc in Boston
among the jewelers. This time it is a man de-
scribed as being of about medium height, light
complexioned, with a crooked nose and a scar be-
low his left eye, plainly but neatly dressed. He
does not answer the descriptions given by any of
the victims of the gang of crooks who infested the
jewelry section last month. His especial prey
seemed to be the Cowans, all three of whom were
visited. After some clever exhibitions of his art,
he came out successful in but one case. It seems
almost impossible to realize that a sneak thief can
enter a jewelry establishment, be caught at his
game, yet continue in his work at another place,
after being allowed to escape; yet such was
the case. When seven jewelers in the Wash-
ington and Jewelers’ Buildings have had _ to
cope with thieves in one month, it certainly
seems time that some decisive action should be
taken by the jewelers, the lessees of the buildings
or the police, to give them the protection which
they should have as tenants, or the protection
which any body of merchants controlling the
amount of stock contained in these two buildings
should rightfully have from the city. The police
are at last thoroughly aroused and exerting all
their power to capture the thieves. Some jewelers,
however, will feel that their awakening is tardy,
for the losses have been keenly felt by some.

A reward of $1000 has been offered by Myer
Slotopolsky, of Boston, for the return of a wallet
of diamonds containing 28 papers and valued at
about $12,000, which he claims to have lost on
Tuesday, September 5th. Mr. Slotopolsky is a
diamond dealer, of Boston, and was recently before
the public eye in a failure which ended rather dis-
astrously for his creditors.

T HE

A. A. Robert, formerly of Robert & Foster,
casemakers, of Boston, has returned from his
European trip, much benefited in health by the
pleasant and enjoyable trip of three and one-halt
months, which were spent journeying through
Germany, Switzerland and Italy. His family
accompanied him on the trip.

Extensive alterations have recently been made
by W. S. Brown, of Bangor, Me., who has con-
verted his building into an up-to-date jewelry
establishment. He will, undoubtedly, reap the
benefits of his progressiveness by the increase in
his Christmas trade. |

Another jewelry concern, Vaughen & Burnett,
of Brandon, Vt., has recently added to the attract-
iveness of their store by installing a handsome new
wallcase of quartered oak for the display of novelties.

D. W. Coffey, who was formerly employed by
C. L. M. Bugbee, of Newport, Vt., has left that
city, where he was well spoken of, to enter the
employ of Whitcomb Bros., of Berlin, N. H.

W. F. Newhall, with his wife and son Roland,
of Lynn, have returned from a vacation of a week
spent in the White Mountains.

F. H. Moulton, employed by Harriman, the
jeweler, of Augusta, Me., spent his vacation of two
weeks at Stockton Springs.

James Mahoney, with the Gaffney Jewelry
Company, of Waterbury, Conn., had a very enjoy-
able time on his vacation, which he spent at Coney
Island and other New York shore resorts. He
made most of the journey home by trolley.

J. E. Wiggins, with W. F. Newhall, of Lynn,
has returned froma three-weeks’ sojourn in the
wilds of Maine. He diverted himself by hunting
and fishing.

C. W. Clifford, of Bath, Me., with his wife and
daughter, has been spending a week in Boston,
where they have many friends.

Samuel M. Shore, who has traveled for I.
Alberts & Co., for the last six or seven years, has
started in the wholesale jobbing business himself.
He is now located in the Jewelers’ Building.

Herbert F. Guilford, of Fitchburg, for several
years clerk for F. S. Hall, of that city, has severed
his connections with Mr. Hall, that he may take a
course at the Klein School of Optics, of Boston,

The Providence Watch and Jewelry Company
has opened a store in J. W. Hart’s building, at the
junction of Main and Mill Streets, in Fitchburg,
Mass.

We are pleased to note the recovery of George
A. Bartlett, of Holliston, Mass., after a serious
illness of over six weeks. While suffering from
nervous prostration, he could not successfully com-
bat the complications which set in and, as a result,
although able to be about, he is still in quite a
weak condition.

The former manager, W. L. Persons, of the
jewelry department, in the store of the Vermont
Marble Company, has returned to his home in
Hudson, Mass. In the near future he may open a
store of his own insome of the New England cities.

Elmer Tyler, with F. A. Lovejoy, of Augusta,
Me., has been confined to his home for some time,
because of illness. :

Herbert L. Gruber, of Boston, who, for some
time past has been located on State Street, has
started on an extensive trip through the United
States and Canada, reaching as far West as Cali-
fornia. He will combine business with pleasure,
and, being a hustler, will make the trip pay for itself.

Many are the jewelers who will be pleased to
hear of the complete recovery of Charles Findley,
of A. Paul & Co., and to know that he is around
once more. A serious operation, one which re-

KE YS To NN. E& 1671

quired about an hour and a half to perform, was
undergone about three monthsago. The operation
was in every way successful, although he suffered
considerable from the effects of it. When he fully
recovers his strength, he will be in far better con-
dition than before his illness. He claims to feel
about ten years younger, and his many friends
assert that he appears so.

Fred. H. Woodman, formerly of Woodman-
Cook Co., on Washington Street, Boston, who,
since leaving the above-mentioned concern has
been located in the Jewelers’ Building, has recently
changed his address to 352 Washington Street.

We are pleased to hear that J. C. Donnell,
with the Ripley Howland Mfg. Co., is soon to be
about and covering his regular territory.

A. B. Leighton, of Everett, who announced
some time ago that he would close out his business
and go to Maine to live, has just succeeded in set-
tling up all of his affairs.

Eben Hardy, a prominent Boston optician,
has returned from a trip to Montreal.

Alvah Skinner, for many years located on the
corner of Winter and Washington Streets, Boston,
has established himself in his new headquarters on
Milk Street, in the Old South Building. Mr Bullard,
the optician, who has been in the same office with
Mr. Skinner for a number of years, is also located
in the new office.

Washington Street, in the jewelry section is, as
it has been for some months past, obstructed by
stationary engines, mortar-beds and dump-carts,
with numberless openings in the street, through
which the material is passed, to further the con-
struction of the subway below. The whole street
is dug away in many places and nothing remains to
support the passing traffic but heavy planks, which,
due, fortunately to careful engineering, have not as
yet given away with any serious results. So far,
Boston is congratulating herself on the scarcity of
accidents during the construction of the Washing-
ton Street subway, and it is to be hoped that no
such accidents as occurred during the construction
of the subway on Tremont Street near the Touraine,
causing so many deaths, will occur.

Geo. E. Homer, 45 Winter Street, Boston, has
installed an excellently equipped optical depart-
ment in his jewelry store, and has secured for it
the services of Frederic W. Stone, a graduate
optician, of many years’ experience, and, till re-
cently, in the employ of the Davis Optical Co., of
Boston.

The following jewelers have been in town:
George A. Bartlett, Holliston, Mass. ; F. H. Jes-
sup,. Wareham, Mass.; C. A. Trefethen, Man-
chester, N. H.; Chas. Sinclair, Concord, N. H. ;
H. E. Bellows and Geo. E. Bellows, Stoneham,
Mass.; H. S. Tanner, Providence, R. I.; C. W.
Clifford, Bath, Me.; M. F. Charles, Reading, Mass. ;
J. E. Whiting, E. J. Hodgdon, Haverhill, “Mass. ;
Hollis S. Howe, Concord, Mass.

Points

Be dignified.

Be firm in your convictions.

Listen to others, but depend on yourseif.

Remember wit is a great weapon, but don’t
mix sense with nonsense.

Don’t talk too much—think a good deal.

Prove your ability and you won't have to
preach it.

A man of the right stamp enjoys the best night’s
rest after a good day’s work.

Don’t give up. Drive away despair by keep-
ing up your spirits. —Harry C. Lyon.

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5-29 CAREW BUILDING. CINCINNATI, O.

October, 1905

Trade in all lines has been
exceptionally brisk during the
past month, the jobbers, manu-
facturing jewelers and retail-
ers all generally reporting business of a satisfactory

Favorable Trade
Conditions

nature. The reports from the Southern States are
also of a nature which indicate an active and pros-
perous winter, which means much for Cincinnati as
the distributing point.

The Advertisers’ Club, of this
city, has started a movement for
the creation of a fund of a half
million dollars, to be used for
purposes of advertising the city. A number of
innovations are being talked of as good advertising
mediums, among which is the suggestion that a
brass band under the leadership of Herman Bell-
stedt, the famous cornetist, be toured under the
name of Bellstedt’s Cincinnati Band. The move-
ment for the creation of the advertising fund is
receiving considerable support from the business
interests.

The Homan Manufacturing Company a short
time ago shipped 200 pieces of high-grade silver-
ware to the Philippine Islands. The plate is in-
tended for a new hotel which was recently com-
pleted in Manila. The same firm some time ago
sent out a complete set of silver plate for a military
club.

The retail firm of Loose & Loose, of Colum-
bus, have arranged to open a new store at the
State capitol, at 180 East Fourth Street, under the
name of the Hub Jewelry Company. Both mem-
bers of the firm were recently in the city to pur-
chase fixtures and supplies for the new place.

To Advertise
the City

Leonard Fox, of the firm of
Gustave Fox & Co., was re-
cently the victim of a bold
atempt at hold-up, while he
was returning from a visit to friends at College
Hill. Atalate hour at night he was making his
way along the North Bend pike toward a trolley
line when he was approached by a colored man,
who flashed a badge and declared that he was the
marshal of the community and demanded an ex-
planation of Fox’s late appearance on the road.
The pseudo officer professed to be very suspicious
of the young man, and declared that he would be
obliged to arrest him and take him to the village
until his identity could be proven. He gave outa
statement that a number of burglaries had been
committed in the neighborhood recently, and would
listen to nothing but that Fox accompany him to
the town hall. The latter did not suspect that all
was not right until they reached a village and he
was being led down a side street. He then noticed
that his custodian was a colored man and at once
demanded to see his badge again. As soon as the
stranger drew aside his coat Fox saw that the
badge was but a piece of plate, and with one
lunge he floored the negro and then fled. The
fellow gave pursuit for a short time, but when
Fox’s voice began to break the stillness of the
night he disappeared in the brush.

The Harberger Jewelry Company is the name
of a new stock company which filed articles of in-
corporation with the secretary of state, at Colum-
bus, some weeks ago. The new concern starts out
with a capital stock of $20,000, the incorporators

Daring Attempted
Hold-up

T tie®

given in the charter being: Bernard Harberger,
M. J. Schroder, Anna L. Dwyer, H. S. Valin and
Stanley Stoms. An extensive jobbing and whole-
sale business will be established in the vicinity of
the Fountain Square.

A. Schemel, the well-known retail jeweler, at
Mohawk Place, spent a vacation of several weeks,
during the past month, at Mackinack.

J. H. Wahlrub, Jr., jeweler, at Dayton, Ohio,
was in the city several days during the middle of
September, inspecting the show windows of some
of the big house furnishers, and announced to his
friends that he expected to embark in a matrimo-
nial venture within a short time. The young lady
is a resident of Dayton.

A negro giving the name of
Audacious Thievery Sumter Jackson, and claim-
ing to live at Los Angeles,
Cal., madea daring attempt to get away with a tray
of valuable rings from the store of Henry Korf, at

625 Main Street, some weeks ago, but failed and
fell into the hands of the police. Jackson entered
the store and asked to see some diamond rings,
which were shown to him by one of the clerks,
who set a filled tray before him, but kept a close
watch. Jackson picked out two expensive soli-
taires, and while apparently deliberating as to
which he would choose, he snatched the tray and
started for the door and down the street. Mr.
Korf and two clerks gave hot pursuit, yelling for
his apprehension. Near the Fountain Square,
Jackson ran into the arms of two detectives, and
for a moment attempted to offer resistance, but
changed his mind. He was locked up on a charge
of robbery, and at a subsequent preliminary hear-
ing was bound over to the county grand jury to
answer to the charge. The police believe is
wanted in other cities and desire information con-
cerning colored tray snatchers.

The Homan Manufacturing Company recently
filed amended articles of incorporation with the
secretary of state, changing .the stock to 2500
shares of common and 1500 shares of 6 per cent.
cumulative preferred stock, each with a par value
of $100. The company is making extensive im-
provements in its new plant.

George Newstedt has moved to his handsome
new quarters in the Neave Building, and had his
formal opening early in the month. Mr. Newstedt
has been obliged to move several times in the past
few years, because of the march of progress which
is on in Cincinnati. Three years ago he was forced
from his store at Fifth and Walnut Streets, to make
room for the new Traction Building. He moved
farther down the same block and a short time later
it looked as if he would be obliged to move again,
to make way for the Mercantile Library Building.
His last move was occasioned by inability to get a
renewal of his lease.

Edward Swigart, of the jobbing firm of E. & J.

Swigart, is home from a ten-days’ fishing trip spent
among the lakes of Wisconsin.
Albert Valentien and his wife,
Anna M. Valentien, two of the
oldest and foremost decorators
of china and pottery connected
with Rookwood Pottery and the Art Museum, have
resigned with the avowed desire of pursuing indi-
vidually the work which they have been doing for
the institutions for a quarter of a century, and
which has assisted in making Rookwood work
famous. Valentien developed many of the famous
glazes of the institution, while his wife studied
modeling under the ablest Paris preceptors, with a
view to introducing a new style into Rookwood
work. On her return she began the modeling of
figures in intaglio and relief upon the vases, which
departure at once became a pronounced success
and is considered one of the most valuable of
Rookwood’s adjuncts.

Mr. Andrea, connected with the firm of
Hutchinson Brothers, at Shreveport, La., passed
through the city early in the month, en route
to Battle Creek, Mich., where he expected to rest
up a few weeks. Mr. Andrea reports indications
for business in the Southern and Gulf States to be
very promising for the coming winter season, pro-
vided that the yellow fever scare can be gotten rid
of by that time. He remained over in the city a
day to take in the sights.

Expert Pottery
Decorators

heey S&S TF Oo N &

1673

William Fink, the Main Street jeweler, has

returned from an extended Western vacation tour,
and expects to make another some time during
the next year.
A number of jewelers from
Frankfort and central Ken-
tucky cities were in Cincin-
nati, September 14th, as the
euests of the Cincinnati Business Men’s Club.
The occasion was the invasion of this city by the
Commercial Club of Frankfort, the members of
which came at the solicitation of the local organ-
ization. A delegation of I50 persons composed
the party, among them several of the retail jewelers
of the section represented. All were pleased with
their reception at the hands of the Cincinnati
commercial interests. In order to promote closer
commercial relations between the two sections,
Cincinnati business men are also discussing the
proposition of building a boat to ply in the Ken-
tucky river trade and have Cincinnati as its
destination.

The police believe that a man and a woman
arrested by the authorities at Albany, N. Y., are
the same couple who visited a number of the
larger wholesale houses in Cincinnati some months
ago and got away with a number of valuable rings
and diamonds. The hauls which the pair made
here aggregated more than a thousand dollars’
worth of diamonds. They were handsomely
dressed, and were aided in carrying out their game
by dashing up to the various business houses in an
automobile. The Jewelers’ Security Alliance has
turned the case over to the Pinkertons, who are
supposed to have assisted in rounding up the
Albany pair. |

Mrs. Janette Plaut, related to a number of the
Plaut family of well-known local jewelers, died at
her home in the Stansifer Flats, Avondale, some
weeks ago, after a brief illness.

Edwara Kaelin, the upper Vine Street retailer,
spent some weeks in Chicago during the early part
of September.

Visiting Jewelers
Entertained

The change in the ownership of
the C. H. & D. Railroad, which
has been turned over to J. P.
Morgan, the Wall Street opera-
tor, and his associates, is expected to have a con-
siderable effect upon the future development of
Cincinnati. With the acquisition of control of the
C. H. & D. and its allies in the Great Central
saytem, Morgan is accredited with now controlling
every line entering the city. Two plans for de-
veloping the city’s railroad facilities are well under
way, and are expected to meet the approval of the
new powers. These are the construction of a new
$10,000,000 union depot, the site for which has
been selected along the canal, and the completion
of a belt road which will enable freight from the
North and East to be conveyed to the Southern
lines without having to be dragged through the
city. All that is necessary to complete the belt
road is the building of a bridge across the Ohio
River at Columbia, so as to connect the Pennsyl-
vania and the C. & O. near Dayton, Ky. The rest
of the belt road will then be over the C. & O. to
Newport, to the L. & N. tracks, and from these to
the Kentucky Central at Milldale, the Cincinnati
Southern at Walton, and the Short line, over L. &
N. tracks.

Travleling men for a number of the local
houses have returned from Southern and Western
trips and report business flourishing, and indica-
tions over the cotton States as better than fora
number of years.

The following were among the latest of the
visiting jewelers who were here last month: H. A.
Rohs, Cynthiana, Ky.; R. T. Timmerman,
Batesville, Ind.; Edward Dannacher, with C. H.
Thompson & Co., Greensburg, Ind.; G. H. Hans-
gen, Bethel, Ohio ; Charles Sederberg, Milford,
Ohio; Walter Eisensmith, Charleston, W. Va.;
A. T. Maupin, Athens, W. Va.; George Kreche,
with D. Adler & Son, Lexington, Ky.; G. W.
Meyer & Son, Chattanooga, Tenn.; Fred. Hentz,
Lexington, Ky.; William Loose, of Loose &
Loose, Columbus, Ohio ; Mr. Douglas, of Watkins
& Douglas, Elizabethtown, Ky.; A. J. Wahlraub,
Jr., Dayton, Ohio; Mr. Andrea, Shreveport, La.;
D. A. Lamb, Wilmington, Ohio; J. D. Ward,
Rising Sun, Ind.; E. S. Clifton, Rogersville, Tenn. ;
J. W. Roop, Greenville, Ohio; Charles Keller,
Frankfort, Ky.; E. O. Collins, Franklin, Ind.;
Frank C. Taylor, Carlisle, Ky.; E. G. Masiman,
of Masiman & Co., Frankfort, Ky.

Local Railroad
Development

1674

A FEW ADVANCED STYLES IN FANS

from a large line purchased in Europe this summer. [:very lady enjoys a pretty fan, and they are always acceptable,
whether for a Birthday, Wedding or Holiday Gift. Write for samples

Kk 30939—Empire shape fan, doubl!e-faced silk gauze, heavy fancy spangles, silk K 30942—Double-faced silk gauze, full spangled, real Duchess lace top, bone sticks, $8.00 eaen
embroidered designs, inlaid bone sticks S. eR Boe eh ee Gl & | epee een K 30944—Double-faced silk gauze, hand painted, two subjects and flowers, gold and

K 30323—Beautiful full spangled, raised embroidered and ettomine center and hand painted inlaid bone sticks Met ein ca nss sana GL SE ktust de 8 were ee Foose Me ean
Cdgeé, Carved-and Inlaid: bOMesSUGKES: «os «ae oe we ee s «© «_. $0.00 €ach K 30945—Cream colored double-faced gauze, beautiful insertion, gold tinsel etto-

KX 30873—Double-faced silk gauze, hand painted in three subjects with flowers, gold nine, gilt spangles, gilt and flowered inlaid bone sticks ........ . .$4.50 each

IM MIG DONG SECS: 645% co.cc eS ee) Tak ds See eed’ ble: We Sen ee EO Gee DU GaOR

| K 30355—Real large fine quality white ostrich feathers, gold inlaid bone sticks . . $7.50 each K 30351—White Maribou and ostrich feather fan with real brown bird raised orna-
KN 30750—Genuine white ostrich feathers, with real pearl sticks. . 2... . . » » $4.50 each ments, serpentine silver inlaid bone sticks . ye ere on ee ee $1.50 each
K 303856—Same as 30750, larger and finer feathers pee ax BO ee Nielecd 4) ste fe . $10.00 each K 30352—Maribou and ostrich raised feathers, in two color effect, white and pink
K 10747—Peacock feathers, handsome green and brown combination, with celluloid and white and heliotrope, inlaid serpentine wood sticks . . . + & > wea CaCh
SHOR ICOLOPECL SELG Rs) gk Uk oe) sa ar ow) Oe ae pete al me lle Ue GS meri wee Im (@ eek GaOu K 30265—Iine quality large white ostrich feather fan, plain bone sticks .... . $3.50 each

; e
j ge ha isbasncor.t
K 30996—F ull size, double-faced silk gauze, full spangled, real white pearl sticks . $5.00 each K 30874—Magnificent, antique and full hand paintings in old master colors on
K 309083—Empire shape, double-faced silk gauze, Swiss butterfly embroidery, and gauze and sticks. A beautiful gift b>. As , Salts + a £10.00 each
white lace insertion, flower paintings, carved, gilt and colored feather shape K 30950—Full size, double-faced gauze and ettomine, full spangled, silver inlaid
bone sticks SR he i ene oe s ee ae ie > oer & wv eOeOO eaen real pear] sticks Dae? ys ; $ : — ; . . . . $9.00 each
K 30946—E-mpire shape, real Duchess lace, handsome carved bone sticks . .. , . $6.00 each K 30904—Beautiful artistic hand painted fan in high colors, with gold and colored
bone sticks, subjects painted by popular RTASTAT. ang ay che cy cane eet mero Caen

Subject to 2 per cent. only
Manufacturers and Jewelry, Fans, Leather Goods, Hair
Kunstadter Brothers, Importers Ornaments, Belts, Gold Purses, etc.
8=240=242=244=246=248 Adams Street, « Market Street, (7
230=24 4 A4=24 4 S corner Marke ree CHICAGO, i

P. S.—Always Something New

October, 1905

The outlook for trade from this
section of the country is most
Crops
bounteous, prices good and as

Trade Outlook

Flattering been

flattering. have
a result the farmers have prospered greatly. Manu-
facturers are working full forces and collections are
satisfactory. The city merchants have _ success-
fully tided over the to-be-expected summer quiet,
and are well prepared to meet the natural increase
that comes with cooler weather. The past few
weeks have seen an increased volume of trade that
can reasonably be expected to continue.

In a list of one hundred and
forty-six ‘Five Million Dollar
National Banks” the /zxancier
(New York), named four in
Indianapolis that have deposits of that amount.
Fletchers’, $8,867,742; Indiana National, $7,o19,-
347 ; American National, $5,592,572 and Merchants’
National, $5,549,766.

On October ist, the Indianapolis Clock Co.,
O. F. Bell, manager, moved from 932 Fort Wayne
Avenue, to 304 Hanson Avenue, where more
commodious quarters were secured for the grow-
ing business.

A delay in receiving their full stock has necessi-
tated the postponement of the opening of the
beautiful new jewelry store of H. Cohen & Sons,
at 50 North Pennsylvania Street. The handsome
solid mahogany wall fixtures of colonial design,
the show cases of American beauty design and the
highly hand-painted wall decorations, make a
background of unusual beauty for the attractive
line of watches, diamonds and jewelry that has
been purchased by the firm.

On September ist, L. I. Kiefer

Five Million
Dollar Banks

An Old and & Son moved into temporary
Esteemed Firm quarters at 3114 East Ohio
Street. When the handsome

new Knights of Pythias Building is erected on the
site of their former location, on Massachusetts
Avenue, the firm will have the choice of one of
best store rooms on the ground floor. The firm
of L. F. Kiefer & Son is one of the oldest and best
known watchmaker and jewelry firms in the city.
Louis F. Kiefer, founder of the business learned
his trade in Rhenish, Bavaria. He came to this
country in 1837, and in 1867 settled in Indianapolis.
The following year he opened a jewelry store in
the Odd Fellows Building on Washington and
Pennsylvania Streets. The oldest son, Louis, was
taken in the business, and the style of the firm be-
came L, F. Kiefer & Son. Upon the death, several
years ago of the senior Mr. Kiefer, his two sons
Louis and Charles continued to conduct the busi-
ness under the same name, a name that continues
to merit the confidence and trust won by its
founder.

C. A. Slinger, watchmaker for Ikko Matsu-
moto, is erecting a pretty little home on Morris
Street, where he hopes to eat his next Thanks-
giving day dinner.

Rudolph Boemker, who very recently arrived
in this country from Germany, is doing watch work
for Carl L. Rost.

S. R. Saylor, who has been with Fletcher M.
Noe, on North Illinois Street, has returned to his
old home at Rossville, Ind., where he will resume
the jewelry business,

ck AE

Horace A. Comstock is a member of the
Columbia Club team, which is one of the clubs
that compose the Indianapolis Bowling League.

Charles Lauer, senior member of the whole-
sale firm of C. W. Lauer & Co., has just returned
from a visit to his daughter in California.

Allen Pickett, watchmaker with George W.

Kkern in the State Life Building, spent his vacation
with his father, J. A. Fickett, jeweler, in New
Castle, Ind.
The Hoosier Jewelry Company
was incorporated with a capital
stock of $15,000. The directors
ares >: ].. Burtord) ie Be burt
and S. F. Rutherford. The company will do an
extensive installment business in this city. Mr.
Burford is president of the Rhodes-Burford furni-
ture house with stores in Indianapolis, Louisville
and several other cities. Mr. Rutherford
formerly with M. F. Smith, installment jeweler on
West Washington Street, and Mr. Hurt is a practi-
cal jeweler of experience.

James Baker, representing Frank M. Whiting,
North Attleboro, Mass., was the genial host at a
dinner given at the Claypool Hotel in this city
August 22d. The following well-known jewelers
were his guests: C. W. Bernloehr, John A. Bern-
loehr, Indianapolis; E. ©O. Collins, Franklin ;
George Greyer, Anderson ; Harry Greyer, Muncie,
and R. C. Eisenbach, Lafayette, Ind.

Chris. Bernhoehr, who spent the summer
traveling in Germany and Switzerland has re-
turned, delighted with the beauty and life of the
foreign cities. He found much to interest him in
his own line of trade, and is already planning to
repeat the trip in 1906.

Charles Moore, manager for the diamond and
jewelry house of S. F. Sipe, at Pittsburg, Pa.,
visited in the city last month. J. C. Sipe spent
several weeks recently in Adams, York.
Upon his way home, he visited his brothers A. FE.
Sipe in Buffalo and S. F. Sipe in Pittsburg.

Carl F. Walk left on October rst, to select
holiday novelties in the New York market for the
firm of J. C. Walk & Son.

Edward G. Gardner, manufacturing jeweler
in the Cordova Block, recently turned out several
handsome badges. He has increased his working
force and reports business on the up-grade.

A New
Installment Firm

Was

New

A most attractive line of solid
silver ware from Holland was
purchased by Ferd Mayer for
Charles Mayer & Company
during his recent trip abroad. All the decorations
are of Dutch designs—wind mills, storks and sail-
ing vessels. One of the most unique pieces is a
glass liquor bottle blown in three separate divi-
sions (three bottles in one) so that the same bottle
can contain three liquors. The top and stopper
are of silver in an artistic design.

Novelties from
Holland

A. B. Wahl, who conducts a jewelry store at
Lafayette, Ind., and has the State agency for the
Edison phonograph in Indiana and Ohio, with
stores in Cincinnati and this State, has recently
added a jewelry stock to his store in this city,
located on South IIlinois Street.

Roy Neighbors, with A. P. Craft & Co., has
been confined to his home for several weeks, the
result of a sprained back.

M. M. Johnson, watchmaker for H. P. W.
English, Hartford City, Ind., and Mr. Koerber,
Fort Wayne, Ind., were buyers in the Cincinnati
markets early last month.

Charles Lauer, of C. W. Lauer & Co., spent
the week of September 11th to 17th, in town
entertaining his State fair week visitors.

KEYS TONE

1675

Of course it was a Hoosier jeweler who loved
the poems of James Whitcomb Riley, who walked
into a local material house and asked for a Whit-
comb-Riley lathe, but the clerk understood and
gave him a Webster-Whitcomb lathe.

L. L. Norton, traveling repre-
sentative of S. T. Nichols &
Co., was on his recent return
‘off the road.’’ He said busi-
ness was very good both in the material and optical
line,
confidence in the jewelry trade is better than for
some years. A better quality of goods is called
for. Retail merchants are prepared to handle
more diamonds this season than for many years.

A Travelers’
Rosy View

He considered fall prospects fine, as the

past.

George S. Kern and A. B. Swift, both trade
watchmakers in the State Life Building, report an
unisual amount of repair work for the past few
weeks. Out-of-town dealers are sending in watch
work in large quantities.

‘*The Brooks Store,’’ at Madison, Ind., con-
ducted a special low-priced sale during September
in order to make room for a large and early pur-
chased holiday stock. The advertisement read
‘‘Madison will be proud of the Brooks store this
fall.’ FEF. O. Brooks is one of the oldest and best-
known merchants in that city. He was formerly a
partner of Godfrey Dold, the firm-name being
srooks & Dold. Later they dissolved partnership,
each opening a jewelry store of his own. Recently
Mr. Brooks admitted his son-in-law, John Chap-
man,who was manager, into the firm, which is now
styled Brooks & Chapman.

L. R. Ratliff has sold his stock at Francesville,

Ind., and taken a position with a large jewelry
house in Colorado Springs, Colo.
Alfred J. Meissen, of the jewelry
firm of A. J. Meissen & Son,
Cicero, Ind., was in the city
recently. He reperted his town
as one of the liveliest in the State during the week
of September 4th, when a highly successful horse
show and street fair was conducted by the hustling
business men of that pretty little city. The fair
was not intended to be a money-making institution,
but was gotten up by the merchants to advertise
the town; by giving the home people and visitors
from the surrounding country and near-by town
lots of enjoyment, good music and free shows,
The firm of A. J. Meissen & Son did their part to
make the enterprise such a marked success.

Successful Fair
in Cicero

Henry Rossier, one of the best
known residents of Martinsville,
Ind., died at his home in that
city, August 26th, after a linger-
ing illness. He leaves a wife, one daughter and
three sons. Mr. Rossier was born in the Canton
of Vand, Switzerland, in 1839, where he learned
the watchmaker’s trade. When twenty-one years
old he came to this country and settled in Indian-
apolis for a short time, then went to Terre Haute,
Ind., where he married Emily Drotz, in 1865. In
1867 he removed from Terre Haute to Mooresville,
and in 1886 moved to Martinsville, where he con-
ducted a very successful jewelry business and
became prominent in the business life of the town.
His first wife died in 1893, and he afterwards mar-
ried his present wife, who was the widow of
Harrison Olds, one of Martinsville’s prosperous
citizens. Mr. Rossier was an active member of
the Methodist Episcopal Church, Odd Fellows and
Masonic orders. His frequent and ever welcome
presence in the wholesale market of Indianapolis
will be greatly missed. To his family the local
trade extends sympathy.

Death of a Well-
Known Jeweler

(Continued on page 1677)

1676

we
The Giant in Quality

of in Sales

Millions of Krementz
One-Piece Collar Buttons
made, and are sold
all over the world

The Standard Collar Button

WHY? ©

Because of their HIGHEST QUALITY, BEST
CONSTRUCTION, GIVING THE MOST WEAR,
AND GREATEST COMFORT and their IRON=
CLAD GUARANTEE.

To verify this we invite the trade to read * The Story
of a Collar Button, with Illustrations,” which may be
had FREE for the asking, and to try the experiment sug-
gested on page 5 of that booklet, by which all may easily
determine the exact amount of 14 Kk. gold in Krementz plate.

Should you wish to utilize this
booklet to increase your collar
button business, we will, on
receipt of you order, print your
card upon and send you a quan-
tity of them.

Extract from “‘ Printers’ Ink,’’
Nov. 23, 1898.

The Little Schoolmaster now
suggests, to every pupil in his
class, to send a two-cent stamp
to Krementz & Co., 49 Chestnut
Street, Newark, N. J., and ask
to be favored with a copy of
their leaflet, ‘‘ The Story of a
Collar Button.’’ Afterward, if
any pupil will send to Printers’
Ink another leaflet, new or old,
that is half as good as this one,
or that approaches it in excel-
lence, the deserving student
will be rewarded with one of
Printers’ Ink’s souvenir spoons
as an acknowledgment of his
discovery and contribution.
‘‘ The Story of a Collar Button”
is the best piece of advertise-
ment construction that has

The several qualities of
Krementz One-Piece Collar Buttons are stamped
as follows, ON BACK :

come toPrinters’ Ink’s attention
in the year of our Lord 1898.

Patent Sustained by United States Supreme Court

Quality and Construction have made Its Reputation

All Krementz Collar Buttons—of every quality—
are Manufactured by

KREMENTZ & CO.

in their Factory

PARKS BROS. & ROGERS
20 Maiden Lane, New York
Selling Agents to Jobbing Trade

NEWARK, N.J.

Jewelers

Get the people in your
store—have a Coloniai
Glass Tumbler Sale

We positively will re-
fund the money for our
glasses if they do not sell.

Try this proposition:
Order a trial barrel; put
them in the window and
mark 45c. a half dozen,
any size. A trial barrel
consists of:

doz. Large Water Goblets,
534 in, high, @ 60c. doz. . $3.00
doz. Small Water Goblets,
5% in. high, @ 55¢. doz. . 2.20
doz. Large Wine Goblets,
414 in. high, @ 45¢.doz.. .90
doz. Small Wine Goblets,
4in. high, @ 44¢. doz...

doz. Cordi al Goblets, 344 in.

high, @ 42c. doz... 84
4 doz. Sherbet Glasses, 314 in.

high, @ 67c. doz... . . . 2.68
4 doz. Water Tumblers, 4 in.

high, @ 67e., doz, Sts 4 20S

23 dozen glasses $13.18

We guarantee you
against any loss. It costs
you nothing to try a sale.

| a

Franklin Glass Co., Franklin, Pa.

The Highest Achievement

in Watch Construction

is represented in the

VAGHERON GUNS TANTIN

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

THE LEADER in {

Cy, - S

OnstaAN®
Quality Durability
Adjustment Style

It Fits All Sizes of American Cases
New Grades—New Sizes—New Improvements
Special Grades for Railroad Men

49 Chestnut Street EDMOND E. ROBERT, SOLE AGENT

3 Maiden Lane, New York

i Tot 8

October, 1905

Indianapolis Letter

(Continued from page 1675)

A diamond ring valued at $500
was stolen August 16th from the
jewelry store of Mayr & Son,
South Bend, Ind. Two men
entered the store and asked to see diamond rings.
During the inspection, one of the men substituted
a ring with an imitation stone for one bearing the
real gem, but the loss was not noticed until some
time after the strangers had left the store. Later,
Frank Mayr, accompanied by the Chief of
Police of South Bend, visited Chicago to look
over the photographs in the Rogue’s gallery in the
hopes of identifying the thieves but failed to recog-
nize the photographs of his recent costly visitors.

F. C. Sheldon, the well-known and successful
jeweler, of Shelbyville, Ind., accompanied by his
wife, visited friends in the city during the State
fair. Mr. Sheldon was looking fine and said he
was enjoying the best of health. He thinks this
will be one of the best years he has ever had.
Everything in his section of the State is in a pros-
perous condition, as the factories are all busy and
farmers had fine crops and got good prices for
their products. He considers THE KEYSTONE as
an old and valued friend.

William Harrison McCain, aged seventy-five
years, recently died at his home in Kokomo, Ind.
He was the first white child born in Carroll County,
in the State of Indiana. He was the father of
the well-known and popular jeweler, Corbin K.
McCain, who has for years been one of Kokomo’s
leading merchants.

Turner & Son, Arcadia, Ind., are nicely set-
tled in a new room, which is a decided improve-
ment over the old quarters.

J. F. Ratliff, Richmond, Ind., spent his vaca-
tion at his old home at Canby, Ind.

W. E. Jenkins, at one time manager for Jenkins
& Co., Richmond, Ind., has returned to Blooming-
ton, Ind., where he has been appointed librarian
of Indiana University.

Mrs. Rowe, wife of Jeweler C.Z. Rowe, of Argos,
Ind., is recovering from the effects of a recent runa-
way accident that just escaped being very serious.

George W. Clemons has moved into a new
store room that has just been erected on the main
street, in Greenwood, Ind.

A Substitution
Game Again

John W. Hudson, Fortville, Ind., a regular
visitor to this market, was recently met upon his
return from a delightful trip to Denver and Colorado
Springs. He was accompanied by his wife, who
always shares her husband’s annual vacation trips.

Albert Meseke, watchmaker with W. P. Car-
ruthers, Oberlin, Ohio, enjoyed a vacation in
August at his former home, Seymour, Ind.

A large collection of pearls of
much value was recently exhib-
ited by an aged man, giving his
name as John Swanson, who
was accidently discovered living the life of a her-
mit in an abandoned oil rig in a wood on the river
bank, near Marion, Ind. The man refused to say
where he came from, but said domestic troubles
had caused him to seek a life of seclusion. He
had lived almost two years in the old rig and had
engaged in pearl hunting with marked success.
He shipped his pearls to a New York dealer. This
is another incident that proves the mussel industry
in the Wabash and other Indiana rivers to be lucra-
tive. At no time during the present season has
there been less than twenty buyers on the field
from the larger Eastern markets. Some of the

Successful Pearl
Collector

T HE

fishermen have shipped their pearls to Paris. Two
pearls recently found near Vincennes, Ind., brought
$550 and $350. The latter is said to have been
worth at least $1800.

The citizens of Boonville, Ind., have decided
to erect a fine town clock to cost about $1500.
Steps have been taken to raise the necessary funds.

August 31st the large plate-glass window in
E. F. Stark’s jewelry store, at Newpoint, Ind., was
broken with a heavy stone wrapped in a cloth.
Three revolvers and some small articles of jewelry
were taken. The total loss was $100.

L. J. Savage, Macy, Ind., is receiving the con-

dolence of his friends upon the recent death of
his wife.
Among the changes made by
Indiana jewelers recently, we
note the following : V. B. Teach-
out has removed from Kendall-
ville to Sturgis, Mich. Edward Hainz, formerly
of Muskogee, is now doing business at West
Salem, Ill. George E. Kinney, formerly engaged
in business in Anderson, has opened a store in
Grand Rapids, Mich. M. D. Eatinger, North Jud-
son, has sold out to his son, who will continue
business at the old stand, but with a larger stock.
Cox & Hodgin is the new name of the old firm of
M. S. Hodgin, at Lynn. Harry Stevenson, last
month moved to Indianapolis from Frankfort.
John H. Sutherlin, Ladoga, has quit the jewelry
business. N. F. Stedman has removed his jewelry
business to Ladoga from Waveland.

The City Council of Michigan City, Ind.,
recently adopted an ordinance licensing and regu-
lating pawn-brokers and forbidding persons en-
gaged in such business from buying or receiving
any article whatever from miners without the con-
sent. of their parents or guardians. The ordinance
was passed for the purpose of eliminating abuses
practiced for years.

Trade Changes
and Removals

F. C. Toepp, South Bend, Ind., has remodeled
his establishment and added a complete optical
department under the management of Charles
Schnell.

The store of A. J. Fisher, watch repairer and
optician at 156 Virginia Avenue, was entered
August 24th by burglars, who broke open a window
and carried off trays of spectacle frames valued at
$50. The police found the empty trays under the
viaduct. The thieves are supposed to have escaped
on a passing freight train.

Z. Staples, manager of the prescription depart-
ment of S. T. Nichols & Co., spent the first week
in September in Southern Indiana resting up after
a very busy summer in the optical business.

B. A. Orndoff and J. J. Scott, of Valparaiso,
Ind., have returned from Chicago, where they
finished a course in optics.

Charles E. Crecelius, of New Albany, Ind.,
has been enrolled as a student of the Northern
Illinois College of Ophthalmology, Chicago.

A lens grinding plant has been installed in the
optical establishment of Oberreich & Arnold at
Laporte, Ind.

William E. Huston, secretary of the American
Association of Opticians, is an old Indiana man.
He was a charter member of the Indiana Optical
Society, held office several times and contributed
much to the life and welfare of the society.

H. L. Rost and family, of Colum-
bus, Ind., were the guests of his
brother, Carl L. Rost, during
the State Fair. He reports
trade conditions very good down his way. Mr.
Rost had just purchased the corner lot, opposite
the St. Denis Hotel, in Columbus, upon which he

A Successful
Jeweler

BE YS TON EB

1677

will erect, early in the spring, a modern business
block, and occupy the corner room. Mr. Rost
owns the building he is now in, but will have a
larger and more modern store in the new building.
3esides his numerous enterprises in Columbus,
Mr. Rost is vice-president of the Progress Lead &
Zinc Co., of Joplin, Mo., a mining enterprise that
has prospered and is making money for its stock~
holders.

K. D. Ronk, of Ladoga, was in the city lust
month, buying a full stock of tools and materials.
He is on the outlook for a good location.

Wm. Beatty has enlarged his store room, at
West Lebanon, Ind., and added a larger stock.

Aaron Pursel, Noblesville, Ind., a familiar
figure in this market, was recently met in one of
the wholesale houses, Mr. Pursel says trade is
good and prospects bright. He is beginning to
find himself cramped for room, and is longing for
larger quarters.

Geo. F. Long, New Richmond; Louis F. Ott,
Veedersburg, and Wm. Beatty, West Lebanon,
formed a pleasant party, who visited the mineral
springs at Martinsville, Ind., during State Fair week.

President J. H. Ellis, of the Indiana Optical
Society, recently appointed M. C. Klein, Crawfords-
ville, Ind., treasurer to finish out the unexpired
term of R. H. Denney.

The improvements on the Wiley Block, occu-
pied by John Wimmer, optician, are almost com-
pleted. The handsome new plate-glass front and
interior decorations have greatly improved the
appearance of his salesroom. The second floor,
devoted to the manufacturing department, has
also undergone a number of changes.

C. V. Stephens, of Carthage, Ind., is offering
his jewelry stock and fixtures for sale.
Out-of-town dealers in the city
last month were numerous.
Many of them came to visit the
State Fair, September 11th to
15th, when the Indiana State Board of Agriculture
opened its gates for the fifty-second annual exposi-
tion of live stock and farm products. ‘Thousands
were in attendance. One of the great attractions
was Dan Patch, the world’s greatest harness horse,
Hoosier born and bred. It was a week when the
‘‘olad hand’’ was extended by the members of
the wholesale and manufacturing firms to their
customers from all over Indiana. Many did some
fall buying, while others just dropped in to ex-
change greetings. All were most welcome visitors.
Among them were noticed the following :

An Army of
Visiting Jewelers

J. A. Meissen, Cicero.

Fk. Pennington, Knightstown.

A. R. Cooper, Mooresville.

H. Wheeler, Dana,

Ike Booth, Tipton.

J. A. Oswald, Crawfordsville.

J.S. Wilhort, Upland.

N. W. Mayer, Crawfordsville,

M. Shelborn, Zionsville.

R. C. Eisenbach, Lafayette.

J. Mayer, Elwood.

C, C. Seaton, Clayton.

J. A. Hardin, Greenwood.

A, S. Orr, Greenfield.

L. fk. Heaps, Spencer.

Turner & Sun, Arcadia.

J. H. Baber, Marion.

J. H. Smith, Greenfield.

D. 8. Whittaker, Lebanon.

J. A. Pickett, New Castle.

Will. Hazeltine, Kokomo.

C. H. Ankeny, Lafayette.

C. O. Erisman, Lafayette.

Sam. Sterchi, Terre Haute.

©. C. Faris, Marion.

Samuel Prager, Terre Haute.

J. F. Ratliff, Richmond.

Wm. Beatty, West Lebanon.

G. W. Clemons, Greenwood.

H. Wheeler, Dana.

Chas. G. Wilett, Royal Center,

W. J. Lamb, Losantville.

Mrs. August Anderson, North
Salem.

Eugene Wilson and wife, Mar-
tinsville.

T. N. Bonifield, Warren.

H. L, Renner, Sandtourn,

Aaron Pursel, Noblesville.

Louis F. Ott, Veedersburg.

G. W. Keifner, Loogootee.

W. V. Klein, Connersville.

George Long, New Richmond.

A, H. Pauley, Bloomington.

J. E. Haddon, Dana,

Al, Smith, Bloomington,

M.S. Brown, Acton.

J. W. Hudson, Fortville.

C. E. Keever, Fountain City.

B. Maier, Edinburg.

J. F. Lisher, Mirristown.

Scott Mullin, Liberty.

J. E. Ward, Worthington.

J. W,. Thompson, Danville.

Fred. Mills, Greensburg.

Mr. Dressler, Bowling Green,

Flo. Dennis, Westfield.

H. A. Davis, Pennville.

J. A. Bard, Brazil.

C.O.Rentsehler, Center Point.

S. M. Royer, Patricksburg.

KF, C. Shelaon, Shelbyville.

H. L. Rost, Columbus,

A. C. Harrison, Fisher’s Sta-
tion.

J. A. Pickett, Newcastle.

J. A. Spencer, Spiceland.

H. 8. Werncke, Greencastle.

John L. Duncan, Wingate.

L. M. Royer, Bowling Green.

Mr. Campbell, Darlington.

W. H. Markle, Rigdon.

H,. E. Kinnear, Marion,

E. B. Scott, Linden.

C, E. Wright, Sims.

J. W. Vest. Greenwood,

1678

EVERYTHING
NEEDED FOR
HOLIDAY
STOCK

Diamond Goods
Watches
Clocks
Jewelry
Silverware
Novelties

CHRISTMAS
SPECIALS IN
GREAT
VARIETY

The Retailers’ First Profit

is made in the purchase of stock. Wise and economic

buying means quick and profitable selling. We see zo
wz that our patrons buy right—that they have every
possible advantage in price, quality and service. Keep
this in mind when selecting your holiday supplies.

Our stocks comprise in unusual abundance every
requirement of the trade. We made our preparations
with an accurate knowledge of the demands of the season,
and can assure at all times satisfaction and prompt de-

livery—the goods you want just when you want them.

W oodstock=Hoefer
Watch and Jewelry Co.

Ninth and Walnut Streets Kansas City, Mo.

More Specimens of the “AMERICAN BEAUTY”

‘* AMERICAN BEAUTY’’ CENTER CASE No, 420

have it named. Everyo me who sees it

sides, ends and top, with marble bas«
rem in,

Nampa, Idaho, February 23, 1905.
Grand Rapids Show Case Co., Grand Rapids, Mich
{ rentlem en :—Enclosed find freight receipt and draft to balance my account in full.
The ‘‘ American Beauty ’’ came in fine shi ape: an d I can’t help but think " »w well you
l “Isn't it a be ‘auty and I fully agree
with them. I thoug cht T had the finest case befo re that could be made, all bev el plate

THE MARVEL SHOW CASE OF THE AGE

IT OIG

Bore

‘* AMERICAN BEAUTY’? FLOOR CASE No, 406

Ord, Nebr., July 10, 1905.

Grand Rapids Show Case Co,, Grand Rapids, Mich.
Gentlemen :—I receive
ae ed with them. There is no comparison betw en them and the old-style

oks ric he er, Wishing you success, brig ae as ie doors fit so nicely n¢ y dust « ‘an get in,

W. H. MANKEY. Yours truly, E. L. CARD.

GRAND RAPIDS SHOW CASE COMPANY, Grand Rapids, Mtch.

NEW YORK OFFICE, 718 Broadway—same floor as
Frankel Display Fixture Co.

lthe ‘‘ American Beauty ’’ Cases all O.K., and am very much

They show off the yds to the very best Siar +; also kee hie m eat pe

THE LARGEST SHOW CASE PLANT IN THE WORLD!

October, 1905

The season of harvest-time re-
joicing is here in full blast, and
everybody is taking a sort of
holiday before winter sets in.
The gratification of the country over the abundant
crops this year, is finding manifestation in many

The Immense
Harvests

localities, in harvest fetes of various sorts. Con-
spicuous among these was the corn carnival at
Atchison, where an elaborate programme
carried out, and visitors were reminded of the
abundance of corn by having it showered upon
them. Corn took the place of confetti, and every-
body joined in the merry battle. Extensive prepa-
rations were made, and Ed. Howe, editor of the
Atchison G/oée, and leading spirit of the corn
carnival, had Ellery’s Royal Italian Band to give
a succession of concerts.

Was

The carnival spirit in Kansas
City is marked always by the
annual festivities of the Priests
of Pallas, who during a whole
week furnish entertainment for all Kansas City
and its thousands of guests. October 2d is the
opening date of the carnival this year, and it will
continue throughout that week. Sousa and his
band are to be here the entire week and give
several concerts, besides appearing in conjunction
with the Epperson Megaphone Minstrels in their
two performances. Other entertainments of the
week are the annual Priests of Pallas ball and the
Bal Masque. By the time this is printed the festivi-
ties will be well on, and it is likely that the pro-
phecy of a record-breaking crowd will be borne
out. The programme this year is so attractive and
the country itself in such good condition that
many out-of-town people will take a little vacation
and come to see Kansas City’s big show. It is
quite proper that people of our tributary territory
should do this, not alone because of the excellence
of the attractions, but because a little rest and
vacation is good for everybody, and a few days in
Kansas City while it is at its best, and there isa
great deal going on, is enough to benefit those who
are, as a rule, engrossed in business. Many out-
of-town merchants postpone their coming to the
city until festival week, and then combine business
with pleasure by placing their orders while here.

All of the wholesale houses
agree that conditions could not
be better for the time of year
than they are now. Basing their
estimates on the bumper crops, and the general
good times, they have placed larger orders than
usual with the manufacturers, and the big factories
are, as a rule, anywhere from three to five weeks
behind with their orders. Early orders for Christ-
mas goods have come in plentifully, and this is, na
doubt, a result of the constant urging of the job-
bers, who have repeatedly pointed out to their
customers the necessity of early orders when a full
selection of goods is desired at once. With the
orders of the wholesale dealers already so large, it
is likely that many retail buyers may have to wait
for their goods, All of the optical houses are as
busy as they can be, and their fall business is now

The Annual

Carnival

Trade Conditions
and Prospects

T HE

at its height. The manufacturing jewelry estab-
lishments are all working overtime. The Meyer
people have had to work extra hours for several
weeks, and the Edwards & Sloane shop have been
so rushed that four new men were hurriedly put
into the manufacturing department. What is true
of these two firms is true of all the other manufac-
turers, who have all the business they can attend
to. Good watchmakers are as scarce as the pro-
verbial hen’s teeth, and all of the members of this
craft are constantly busy. The large amount of
work that is being done in the shops is a distinct
indication of good times in the country. The
small jewelers, when business 1s good, have to
constantly leave their watchmaking benches and
attend to their stock, and when business is excep-
tionally good, the work is, of course, hurriedly
packed up and sent to the big shops in Kansas City.

Kansas City real estate is still
Kansas City Real on the up grade. Prices,
Estate on the Up especially for business prop-
Grade erty, are extremely high.

Many down-town sites have
changed hands at big prices. Residence build-
ing is especially brisk, for in these days of ‘‘easy
payments’’ everybody is in the notion of acquiring
a home. Many new additions to the city have
been laid out and homes are springing up in the
suburbs like mushrooms.

”)

A few Kansas City jewelers placed extensive
orders abroad for goods for the holiday trade. The
import order of J. R. Mercer, which has just been
cleared through the custom house, is one of the
largest of its kind. It includes rare specimens of
Dutch silver and many beautiful bronzes.

Mrs. C. C. Hoefer has returned after a three-
months’ absence from Kansas City, duing which
she visited in the East and spent some time at
Plum Lake, Wis.

C. A. Thomas, of Norborne, Mo., has sold his
jewelry stock to R. E. Meehan.

A. S. Fonville, of Wichita Falls, Texas, spent
a fortnight in Kansas City, during which time he
selected his winter stock of jewelry.

Louis Meyer, of the Meyer Jewelry Company,
has been very ill at his home for two weeks. It
will probably be some time before he will return
to business.

Walter Jaccard, of the Jaccard Jewelry Com-
pany, has returned from his summer trip to Europe,
bringing back with him many novelties for Christ-
mas buyers.

W. H. Reed, of Golden City, Mo., was a
Kansas City visitor last week.

Mrs. Otto Burklund, wife of the Ossawatomie,
Kans., jeweler, isin Kansas City taking a course in
engraving at the Kansas City Horological and
Engraving College. Mrs. Burklund shows unusual
talent and promises to make an especially fine
engraver. She was not entirely untutored in the
art when she begun her studies here, for previous
trials with the engraving tools had so pleased her
that she decided to take a practical course.

Bass & Company, jewelers, of Huntsville, Mo.,
have sold out their stock.

The Nelson Jewelry Company, of Cotter, Ark..,
recently suffered considerable loss in a fire which
destroyed several other business houses.

J. R. Mercer is back after an extended absence,
during which he spent several weeks fishing in
Canada, and visited the big Eastern manufacturing
centers.

F, W. Meyer will soon inaugurate extensive
alterations and improvements in his store, planning
to have all complete by the time that the Christmas
trade is well on.

KB YY S TON E&

1679

Mr. and Mrs. Paul Margolis have returned from
a vacation outing of several weeks.

New students recently matriculated at the
Southwestern Optical College are Herbert S. Elli-
son, Hobart, Okla. Ter.; Obadiah Holmes, Blue
Springs, Mo.; B. L. Coldron, Leavenworth ; J. B.
Miller, Coffeyville, Kans., and R. W. Easton, of
Kansas City. Dr. E. A. Lane, of this college, has
returned after a visit of several weeks with rela-
tives in Denver and Pueblo.

C. S. Weed, of Woodstock-Hoefer Watch &
Jewelry Co., is ill.

S. Joseph, the Des Moines jeweler, spent seve-
ral days in Kansas City last month.

Thomas Ware, of Gurney & Ware, has re-
turned from his outing at Plum Lake, Wis.

Miss Anna Collins, of Mercer’s, is spending
two weeks on a ranch in Western Kansas.

E. D. Martin, formerly of Carl Junction, Mo.,
has opened a retail jewelry store at 107 West Ninth
Sireet,

W. C. Schaible, of Falls City, Nebr., and
M. Queen, of Kansas City, are taking courses in
watchmaking at the Kansas City Horological
College.

Ed. Dunning, of the Dunning Jewelry Com-
pany, is building himself a handsome new home.

V. F. Kirkpatrick and Mrs. Kirkpatrick, of St.
Joseph, were Kansas City visitors recently.

A.S. Tucker, of the Tucker Jewelry Company,
recently bought his fall goods here.

Dr. C. W. Crosby, 1024 Walnut Street, has
gone to Chicago and New York to take a post-
graduate course in neurology. His office will re-
main open in his absence.

Among the out-of-town jewelers who visited
Kansas City within the last two weeks were J. W.
Phillips, Chanute, Kans.; T. L. Basket, Chilli-
cothe, Mo.; Walter Starcke, Junction City, Kans.;
Wm. G. Glick, Junction City, Kans.; G. H. Lee,
West Plains, Mo.; W. H. Haupt, Bartlesville,
Ind, Ters J. ©. Haupt, Peabody, Kans:s W. H.
Meyer, Lawson, Mo.; W. W. Whiteside, Liberty,
Mo.; S. J. Huey, Excelsior Springs, Mo.; F. Mel-
luish, Ottawa, Kans.; E. Hostetter, Garden City,
Mo.; C. A. Clement, Springfield, Mo.; H. E.
Tucker, Higginsville, Mo.; W. E. Crollin, Chilli- .
cothe, Mo.; Will. Pfeiffer, Parsons, Kans.; L. Me-
gede, Richmond, Mo.; J. B. Hayden, Topeka,
Kans.; E: D. Dunning; Concordia, Kans.; LS.
Grim, Jewell, Kans.

A New * Far-Speaker ”

The ‘‘auxetophone”’ is an attachment for re-
enforcing the sounds given forth by phonographs
and gramaphones, invented by C. A. Parsons, the
inventor of the steam turbine, and Horace Short.
A small valve of peculiar construction controls the
admission into the trumpet of compressed air sup-
plied from a pump or bellows. The action of the
apparatus is compared in the Sczentific American
to that of an air relay, whereby not only are greater
power and volume imparted to the sounds, but the
fullness and richness of tone are heightened. It is
said that on a calm day the auxetophone can be
heard distinctly at a distance of two or three miles,
and that in speech every word may be clearly dis-
tinguished as much as five hundred yards away.

“The Keystone ts so good now I could not pos-
sibly offer a suggestion to better it; so will leave
it to you. Lam particularly interested in Work-
shop Notes.’—W. H. Crisp, Jeweler, Enid, Okla-
homa Territory.

1680 tc FL -&

ecemcats

spine SNE Te on OR eet taSaon

The partnership hitherto existing between
Richard M. Cooper and John S, S. Cooper, trad-
ing at 722 Sansom Street as Richard M. Cooper &
Son, has been dissolved, Richard M. Cooper hav-
ing withdrawn. The business will be continued at
the same address by John S. S. Cooper under the
old firm-name.

A. M. Kendall, the Millville, N. J., jeweler,
visited the jobbing trade in this city last month,
renewed friendship with the local dealers, looked
over their interesting lines and gave some appreci-
able orders. Jeweler Kendall was agreeably sur-
prised by the novelty, beauty and extent of the
stocks now being shown in Philadelphia’s whole-
sale market.

C. S. Hunsberger, of Souderton, Pa., paid
visit to the Philadelphia market last month, and
made some choice purchases of stock to meet an
anticipated brisk demand during the _ holiday
season.

Bailey, Banks & Biddle Co., were awarded
the contract for the cups and other handsome
trophies contested for at the eleventh annual Bryn
Mawr horse show, held September 2oth to 23d.
These prizes were an attractive feature of the
company’s window displays, in which connection
they were very much admired.

Benjamin Gebhard, manufacturing and whole-
sale jeweler, has removed from 129 South Seventh
Street to 735 Sansom Street. The new location
affords him a considerable amount of extra space,
and in its general appointments is admirably
adapted to his increasing trade.

Recent visitors to the local jobbing trade in-
cluded Capt. Geo. Bowen, of Bridgeton, N. J.
Capt. Bowen spent several days tnspecting the new
fall and holiday lines of the Quaker City whole-
salers, made numerous purchases, and took back
with him some very pleasant memories of his visit.

J. W. Tyler, of Tylersville, Pa., was a buyer
in the local market last month. He secured some
choice lines for fall and holiday trade.

Wilson Streeter, one of the foreign buyers
for Bailey, Banks & Biddle Co., who left for
Europe in May last, has lately been ill in Paris
with sciatic rheumatism.

W. H. Waltz, the Schwenkville, Pa., jeweler,
called on the wholesale trade of this city last
month, and made some seasonable purchases. He
speaks favorably of prospects in Montgomery
county.

Samuel Kind, of S. Kind & Sons, returned
lately from a sojourn in Europe. Mr. Kind has
been away for nine weeks, most of which time he
spent at the German health resorts.

J. E. Caldwell & Co. furnished the cups and
other interesting trophies for the Atlantic City and
Cape May automobile races.

O. O. Stillman, the well-known jeweler, of
New Brunswick, N. J., renewed acquaintanceship
with his numerous friends in the Philadelphia
jewelry trade last month. Mr. Stillman was highly
pleased by his visit to this city, and marked his
appreciation of the new fall and_ holiday lines
shown by the jobbing trade, by making liberal
purchases.

Harvey Feldman, of B. J. Feldman & Sons,
of Franklin, Pa., who was one of the injured in
the recent railroad accident at Harrisburg, died

last month, the immediate cause of death being
neuralgia of the stomach. ‘The funeral took place
on September 14th, when a large number of
relatives and friends followed the remains to their
last resting place. |

William Wildemore, well known to the local
trade, having been in the employ of L. A. Scherr
& Co. for twenty-five years, died recently.

Among the recent arrivals at the Philadelphia
College of Horology are: E. Wicks, Pittston, Pa.;
C. C. Murry, Timpson, Texas; W. Leyberger,
Salem, New Jersey; W. P. Cook, Salem, N. J.;
E. H. Smith, Vineland, N. J.; H. Steffler, New
Philadelphia, Ohio; L. H. Hepworth, Hope Val-
ley, R. I.; A. G. Bloom, Harrisburg, Pa.; Miss
Kathryn Clark, Bristol, Pa.; J. B. McBain, Middle-
burg, N. Y.; H. J. Hood, Ozark, Ala.; H. McLee,
ee Pa.; P. H. Haggerty, Mauch Chunk, Pa.;
Q, Niiemins Patchogue, L. I.; W. M. Powell,
Btuoori ia, Va.; W. F. Evans, Mount Savage, Md.;
W. B. Wallace, Jr., Lexington, Va.; G. B. Pruett,
Oakland, Cal.; E. A. Hollis, Martinsburg, W. Va.;
R. E. Stone, Keene, N. Y., and J. T. Umpleby, of
Brooklyn, N. Y., who is taking a special course in
optics.

There is a general improvement in business in
this section and trade is more brisk than at this
period last year. The outlook for the fall and holi-
days is most hopeful, especially in Dallas, which
is becoming the metropolis of the Southwest. It
is now the headquarters of numerous wholesale
houses and is favored by the vast extent of the
trade territory tc which it caters. The great Texas
State Fair, originally scheduled to open on Septem-
ber 30th, and close on October 15th, has been
postponed owing to the yellow fever scare in some
sections of the South. Under the new arrange-
ment, the fair will be inaugurated on October 28th
and concluded on November 12th. Fortunately no
cases of the disease have been reported in Texas
so far, but it was opined that to postpone the fete
would contribute to its greater success, as by Octo-
ber 28th most of the quarantines will have been
raised, the attendance, no doubt, will be conse-
quently greater, the spirit of the occasion more
genuinely festive, the attractions more numerous
and the business benefits more abundant.

John L. Boland, of St. Louis, has opened his
sample-room in Dallas, under the management of
Chas. C. Mitchell, and, as usual, is now ready. for
all fall orders.

The business of Fletcher Allen, Kosse, Tex.,
is now in involuntary bankruptcy.

Frank P. Moring, or Ladonia, Tex., was in
Dallas, recently, making some fall purchases.

Lee S. Smith, of Bowie, Tex., made a pleasure
and business trip to Dallas, visiting his sister, as
well as laying in a fall line of goods.

W. H. Gumm, of Van Alstyne, Tex., made a
business trip to Dallas recently.

A. L. Jones, of Llano, Tex., spent several
days in Dallas last month, selecting his fall line
of goods, consisting of jewelry and musical in-
struments.

A. D. Honeycutt, of A. D. Honeycut & Co.,
druggists and jewelers, of Gatesville, Tex., was a
recent buyer in the Dallas markets.

KE Y S Fon &

October, 1905

The Dallas Trade League entertained a large
number of visiting merchants from all parts of the
State, for two days last month. A well-attended
business meeting was held, at which the city’s
trading facilities were praised, and an enjoyable
banquet was afterwards given at the Oriental Hotel,
in honor of the visiting dealers.

W. E. Brown, a jeweler, of Boyd, Tex., was a
buyer in the Dallas markets last month.

C. W. Thompson and wife, of West, Tex.,
spent several days visiting relatives near Terrell
last month, and on their way home Mr. Thompson
visited the trade, making necessary purchases for
his jewelry store.

A. M. Wesson, of Midlothian, was a recent
buyer in the Dallas markets. Mr. Wesson has
moved into larger and more commodious quarters,

and has now a very pretty jewelry store, having
added new fixtures,

L. N. Pittman, son of E. I. Pittman, a jeweler,
of Ennis, Tex., was a recent visitor in Dallas.

C. T. Moore, of Mineola, Tex., spent several
days away from business, taking a little rest and
recreation.

Mr. Bradford, of the Bradford Drug Co., of
Mineola, Tex., paid Dallas a two-days’ visit last
month, making some fall purchases.

I. Tendler, of Rosebud, Tex., was in Dallas
recently. Mr. Tendler has lately opened a jewelry
store at the above-named place.

B. Z. Friedman, of B. Z. Friedman & Co.,
Fort Worth, Tex., was in Dallas recently on a
business trip.

Watchmaker Henderson, of J. Mitchell &
Co., Fort Worth, spent a day in Dallas recently.

T. H. Benninger, watchmaker and jeweler for
J. W. Pittman, of Cleburne, Tex., made a business
trip to Dallas recently.

H. McCoy, watchmaker for J. W. Lane &
Co., Coalgate, J. Ter., was a recent buyer in the
Dallas markets.

J. B. Russell, watchmaker for D. E. Austin &
Co., Grapevine, Tex., made a business trip to
Dallas last month.

Will. F. Dietrich, of Kaufman, Tex., made a
business trip to Dallas recently, laying in a part of
his fall line of goods.

L. E. Miller, of Goldthwaite, Tex., spent sev-
eral days in Dallas last month, attending to some
business in his line.

Thos. M. Cave, of Thorndale, Tex., spent
several days in Dallas lately. Mr. Cave combined
pleasure and business together and spent a very
enjoyable visit.

B. G. Glass, of Madill, I. Ter., was a recent
buyer in the Dallas markets.

C. N. Bushnell, formerly watchmaker for S. R.
Glidewell, Whitewright, Tex., has opened a busi-
ness of his own at Channing, Tex.

Victor Hunter, jeweler for Sam. F. Stewart, of
this city, spent his vacation at Whitney, Tex., and
reports a very pleasant visit.

L. B. Platt, of the Platt Jewelry Company, is
just getting up from a seven-weeks’ spell of sick-
ness. Mr. Platt at one time was very low, but he
is fast improving.

W. A. Peck, of Denison, made a pleasure trip
to Dallas recently. Mr. Peck is a Shriner, and
attended the general meeting which took place
September 15th.

R. E. Allen, formerly of Jos. Linz & Bros.,
Dallas, has accepted a position with C. L. Nors-
worthy, as watchmaker.

T. S. Dennis, of Eastland, spent a few hours
in Dallas recently on a business trip.

J. P. Oliver, of Hearne, Tex.,
buyer in the Dallas markets.

B. Gorman, of Winnsboro, Tex., spent several
weeks in West, Tex., on his vacation, and reports
that he feels much better and is now ready for
business.

W. D. Frey, material clerk for C. L. Nors-
worthy, Dallas, was on the sick list a few days last
month, but is now at work again.

H. Fisher, formerly of Wichita Falls, spent
several days in Dallas recently, on a visit to rela-
tives. Mr. Fisher is now taking a rest at Mineral
Wells, Tex.

Aubrey Dunn, formerly of J. C. Dallas & Co.,
Temple, Tex., has resigned his position and opened
a business of his own at Coleman, Tex.

was a recent

——

1681

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COLD MEAT FORK it would be well to send it early, either to us direct or

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plated flatware, send for catalogue and full particulars.

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Successor to

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Two-thirds size)

NEW YORK WAREROOMS: o9=11-13-15 Maiden Lane

New York Standard Watch Co.

Announce a New Watch made especially
for the Watch Trade

A watch built especially for you. A low price fora serviceable move-
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through; entirely new design of plates and character of finish; compensating
balance, breguet hairspring, seven jewels, lever escapement; two fnishes—
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Ing Up tO: Our claim of

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How can we make so good a watch for so little money?
We have one of the largest American factories running full time on this
one thing—producing nearly 2,000 movements a day—always making
them thoroughly good, yet reducing the cost to the minimum. If we
were working on twenty-five different models, the price of these new
watches would be perhaps double. You get the benefit of our sfeccahza-
toon. Your jobber has these new models xow—order early, the demand

is great and growing. Price-list on request.

New York Standard Watch Co.
Jersey City, N. J.

1682

THE WESTERN CLOCK MFG. CO.

SOLE MAKERS OF THE “AMERICA” ALARM

NEW YORK CITY CHICAGO
51-53 Maiden Lane LA SALLE, ILL. 131 Wabash Avenue

“Strenuous” Long Alarm
Lhe Kind You Have to Get Up to Stop

HE “STRENUOUS” LONG ALARM rings for five minutes continuously unless
stopped by a brass shut-off attached to the bell. It is put up in a large nickel-
plated case, 4% inches wide across the dial and 234 inches deep. The movement has all the
advantages of our unique CASTING CONSTRUCTION which permits the use of very
LHIN HARD STEEL PIVOTS, reducing the friction to a minimum, assuring absolutely
true wheels and producing perfect timekeepers.
The “STRENUOUS” does not cost any more than most of the short-ring alarm

clocks on the market, and can therefore be retailed for $1.00 at a good profit.

1684

More advertising this year than ever before.

Look in any of these magazines for the “ World Brand”
advertisements and judge for yourself as to their trade-bringing
qualities: ““Delineator,” “Desioner,” “New Idea Woman's

Neoazine, “Ladies Hone journal.”

This comprises the strongest list of woman's magazines
published and covers a circulation of over Three Million

subscribers.

Our advertising is done entirely in the interest of dealers
who carrv “ World Brand” Silverware. It is our aim to secure
customers for such dealers—to send customers directly to their

COMNTETS:

We make it easy for you to carry “World Brand”

silverware.
A factory shipment costs you but $25, or even $10.

Write [TO-DAY for “World Brand” Silver Catalogue
Supplement describing special assortments and showing net

“Costs You” prices.

We guarantee “ World Brand” to be plated 50% heavier
than Standard Plate. It costs you no more. Customers
readily pay a better price for this heavier plate. You makea

better pront.

Tine American Silver Company

46 W. Broadway
New York

Bristol, Conn. Silversmiths’ Building

Chicago, IIl.

Keep Your Stock Fresh

with New Patterns and Shapes

Our Cut Glass sells out of stock

and the line is noted tor its

Heavy Blanks
Rich, Deep Cutting
Brilliant Finish
Moderate Prices

To keep up to date, send for
our complete catalogue—all

half-tone illustrations.

L[mportant

We ofter a special in Cut Glass each
month. Send for description of this
month’s offer and get your name on
our list.

UNGER BROS.

“Manufacturing Jewelers, Silversmiths and
Glass Cutters

412-418 Halsey St., Newark, N. J.

1685

Tea

pat

os &, pe

A SHE

ss Coy paar Se —_

CLERMONT VASE
18/7 high

No. 9419

We do not job our glass, but
cut every piece we sell here in
our own factory.

| 1686
| If you haven’t already received our catalogue of

“Ornaments for the Hair’

| Write for one to=day

It is to your interest to see it for we make the
largest and most comprehensive line of combs and
barrettes in America.

Our new and complete catalogue of all the goods
| manufactured by us is now on the press and will be
| ready to mail the day you see this ad. It contains all
| the latest novelties of the season. Be sure and ask
| for one at once.
/

FISHEL, NESSLER & CO.

Silversmiths and Jewelers

OFFICE AND WORKS—
| 79, 81, 83, 85 Crosby Street New York, N. 1

SALESROOM-—
556 Broadway Patentees of the ‘‘ Breakless’’ Bar Pin.

| Nap STE PUN So Re
° } ’ ee cae
. L 925/000. ~

| TRADE MARK

STERLING SILVER HAIR ORNAMENTS PLATED JEWELRY

These well-known trade-marks on the back of each article
manufactured by us are a guarantee of originality, artistic distinc-
tion and perfect workmanship.

Wealtln of Watcla Stoclh for fF all Trade

We have completed elaborate preparations
pre]

for supplying promptly and_ satisfactorily
the fall and holiday watch needs of the
trade. Our stocks comprise full lines of

the product of the Keystone Watch Case Co.
INeystone Solid Gold
Jas. Boss Filled

Betsy IRoss Complete
Watcha, etc.

IELGIN MOVEMENTS WALTHAM MOVEMERTS

Full line of RAILROAD WATCHES
Also Cases of the Crescent Watch Case Co. and the Philadelphia Watch Case Co.

H. O. HURLBURT @ SONS, gout, fee's

New England Watches

| A few of the choice des

few of the choice designs that
are proving to be great sellers

No. 8473, with arabesque bezel, is novel and attractive

and with rose gold finish makes a unique and stylish
watch. The other designs, 8519 and 8521, are very
effective, and the entire line of

ELF WATCHES ARE THE MOST UP=TO=
DATE FOR A TEN=LIGNE SIZE

No. 4689 Rugby—the ten size boys’ hunting in
20-year cases. Lhe entire line of Rugby Watches is

very salable.

Numbers 9631, 9633 and 9635—the Cavour fifteen-
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THE BEST-SELLING LINE OF LADIES’
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Accurate, reliable, and carry our unquestioned twenty-
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Send to=day for Catalogue describing
all our lines and prices

New England Watch Co., Waterbury, Conn.

37=39 Maiden La 131-137 Wabash Avenue Spreckels Building
New York Chicago, Ill. San Francisco, Cal.

Write for

Our Special Offer

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A 6-foot-high
MISSION HALL CLOCK
exactly like this
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3 of the best-selling
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and 4 Miniature
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: i tails
No. 504 oe jes Retails No. 510 Retails No. 508 Re :
2t inches Ses 9 Be: for about 20 inches § for about 1714 in. for about
high 3, ies $6.00 high $8.50 fay high $7.50
= .

Our announcement in last month’s Krysrone has caught the trade by storm, and orders
are coming in from every section of the country. Jewelers seem to have been waiting for just
such an offer as we made last month. Write at once for descriptive circular giving’ full
details and prices. You will also recetve our new cuckoo clock folder, just off the press.

American Cuckoo Clock Company, Inc.
Station S 7 Philadelphia

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Ask to see our latest designs in

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Main Office and Factories

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HOLLAND

New York Salesrooms, 37 Maiden Lane

STERLING

Lessons in Horology

COURSE IN MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO CHRONOMETRY

By JULES GROSSMANN, Director of the Horological School, of Locle, Switzerland, and
HERMANN GROSSM ANN, Director of the Horological and E lectro- Mechanical
School, of Neuchatel, Switzerland.
Authorized translation by JAMES ALLAN, Jr., Charleston, S. C.
Locle Horological School.

[Copyrighted, 1905, by B. Thorpe, Publisher.

Former pupil of the

a (Continued. Part XXII.)

The especial advantages of this system of gearings are, first,
that the two wheels being similar and the teeth not showing any
change of curvature at the passage of the line of centers, any one
tooth will drive the other before as well as after the line of centers.
Moreover, the construction of a wheel not depending in any way on
that wien it should drive, all wheels evolvents of circles can gear
together ; the relation of the velocities which they have is only to be
considered. This is a valuable property which allows a single
‘motive wheel to drive at once several others, or to make several
wheels gear together successively, as is the case in the screw-
cutting lathe. Another advantage to be considered is that the
distance of the centers can vary between certain limits without the
regularity of the gearing suffering in consequence.

The gearing of evolvents can be interior; the form of the
teeth, in place of being convex, is then concave. This fact is an
inconvenience which makes this combination little used. One can,
in these cases, diminish the concavity by multiplying sufficiently the
number of teeth.

220. Third—Roller Method. The principle of this method
differs from the preceding, but is just as general.

Let us imagine, first, any polygon, dB CD E FG (Fig. 56),
compelled to roll without sliding the length of a line X¥ Vv Ata
certain moment of the movement
one of the angles, A, for example,
is found in contact with the line
X ¥. During the rolling around
this point all the points of the
polygon, and with them all those
which, interiorly or exteriorly, could
be unalterably connected with them,
describe arcs of circles around the
center A. As, for example, the
point “7, exterior to the polygon
but unalterably connected with it,
will describe an arc a 6 during the instant of the rolling considered.

The radii of these diverse arcs of circles will be their normals
and will necessarily pass through the point A.

Let us remark that the leneth of each are described depends
on that of its radius and on the number of sides that compose the
polygon. If we suppose this geometrical figure formed with a great
number of sides, the lengths of
the arcs described while it turns
around one of its sides, will
diminish. At the limit, that is to
say, when the number of sides
becomes infinite, the polygon is
confounded with a continuous
curved line, and each of the
points which compose it will de-
scribe, nevertheless, as the poly-
gon rolls around an instantane-
ous point of contact, an infinitely
short arc of a circle. But, how-
ever small it may be, this arc pos-
sesses, nevertheless, two extreme
radii, drawn infinitely near to
each other and passing through
the instantaneous center of rota-

Fig. 56

tion. Since they are drawn infi- :
nitely near to each other, either :
of these radii of curvature is, ;
consequently, normal to the :

point considered of the total Fig. 57

( 168c)

TECHNICAL DEPARTMENT

curve described by this point during the continual rolling of the
generatrix along the line of the dzvectrizx.

This established, let there be, moreover (Fig. 57), any curve,
abc, which we cause to roll on the exterior of the primitive cir-
cumference of a wheel and at the interior of that of the pinion.
If, to be more clear, we suppose that a point # taken outside of
this curve may be connected with it in an invariable manner, the
movement of this point will be similar to that of all the points
composing the given curve.

During a certain period of the curve’s movement at the
exterior of the primitive circle of the wheel O, this point A will
describe a trajectory d /7 g ; then, when the movement takes place
at the interior of the primitive circle of the ee O’, its trajectory
will be the line f He. These two curves can be adopted as the
profile of conjugate teeth. In fact, we imagine that the curve aé c
tollows the movement of the two primitive circumferences in such a
manner that these three curves remain constantly tangent at a.
The trajectories meet at H/, since this point describes them both ;
moreover, they are tangent there, since the normal for each is
obtained on joining the describing point /7 to the point of con-
tact a of the moving curve a 6c with both of the primitive circum-
ferences established.

Consequently, the common normal of the teeth, at their point
of contact, passes through the point of tangency of the primitive
circumferences, and the verification of this fact suffices, we know,
in order to have the curves obtained, adopted as forms of teeth.

Let us examine from this point of view the following case :

221. Flank Gearings. In or-
der to obtain a profile very much
used in the practice of horology
one chooses as the generating
form the circumference whose
diameter is the radius of one
of the primitive circles and one
takes the describing point on its
circumference (Fig. 58).

In the movement of the
generating circle around the
primitive circle of the wheel, the
point A describes an arc of an i nk ee
‘epicycloid”” AD, = 1g ee

In its movement in the a a oe
interior of the primitive circle of en
the pinion, this same point 4 de- epee
scribes a straight line O’ A, which en as
is a radius of the circle O’. This athe
plane surface O’ A is called a oe
OS [lathe peas :

Let us remark that the epicy-

"ewe ee BP OB HM OO COO ET EEO Om ROE meme mre

cloid which forms the profile of ead
the tooth in flank gearing’s 1s not NO
the same as that which we have bet
determined for the lantern gear- x

Ps
©

ings (212). In the first case it is
produced by a point of a circle Fig.
with a radius less than one-half
that of the primitive circle of the pinion, and in the second this
curve is produced by a point of the primitive circumference itself.

222. We are now going to prove that zz the rolling of the
interior of the circle with twice the radius, the moving point tra-
verses a diameter.

If one represents in effect any position whatever, O”, of the
moving circle during its movement in the interior of the primitive
circumference of the pinion, the angle inscribed, A’ O' JZ, bas for its
measure the half of the relation of the arc 4’ 17 comprised between

its sides to the radius 1% 4’ O’, oH =

One can, on the other hand, measure it as an angle to the
center O’ by the relation of the arc comprised 4’ 4 to the radius
Ao OF: aS

But, if the expression of the theorem is true, that is to say, if
the point A of the generating circle is carried to AZ along the

straight line A O’, the two angles A’ O! Mand A’ O’ A should be

(Continued on page 1691)

that is to say,

therefore,

°°TRENTON MOVEMENTS, IN ALL SIZES, ARE NOW MADE TO FIT REGULAR PENDANT-SETTING CASES

TRENTON

Pendant

No. 100. Bridge Model, 0 Size, 7
Jewel, Hunting and Open-Face,
Pendant Setting

Nickel damaskeened, quick train, straight

line lever escapement, exposed pallets,

cut expansion balance, hardened and tem-
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screw bankings, exposed polished steel
winding wheels, dust band, roman or arabic
white enamel dial and red marginal figures.
Open-face, without seconds.

Sea Bee. .
am a sh

a
5m Pa

No. 310. FORTUNA.”
6 Size, 7 Jewel, Hunt-
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Pendant Setting

Nickel damaskeened, cut ex-

pansion balance, safety pinion,

screw bankings, straight line
lever escapement, hardened and
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quick train, exposed winding
wheels, handsome white ename
dial with depressed seconds and
red marginal figures. Open-face,

No. 320. “FORTUNA.”
12 Size, 7 J -wel, Hunt-
ing and Open - Face,
Pendant Setting

Nickel damaskeened, cut expan-

sion balance, safety pinions,

screw bankings, straight line
lever escapement, hardened and
tempered breguet hairspring,
quick train, exposed winding
wheels, handsome white enamel
dial with depressed seconds and
red marginal figures, Open-face,

without seconds, we SS without seconds,
AHN My TTT
i —_ ae
. : 2 os ~ “3 +s ae 0.140. Bridg lodel, 16 Size, 15
No. 130. Bridge Model, 16 Size, 7 No. 135. Bridge Model, 16 Size, 11 Jew el, N event uitine aus Reet is fa
Jewel, Hunting and Open-Face, Hunting and Open-Face, Pendant Setting Pandant Setting be
Pendant Setting Nickel damaskeened, quick train, straight line escape- 4 alien Sa) eatitn é saaninetey PenUTAT Or
> + *) IY ve) « . > - +7 alc > P, c ‘ se S t ) -
Nickel damaskeened, quick train, straight ment, exposed pallets, cut expansion balance, hard- eftiel aauiaeetennh & Stabe ae 2 cel ohit
line escapement, exposed pallets, cut ex- : ened and tempered breguet hairspring, safety pinion, Niodaeer ae nee ae ee Aitete eae
pansion balance, hardened and tempered Decorated Dials aaa ta Paes couere 2 maetoud apie Wen Oa expansion hetange al peace at “tep) |
SAAT ES aren) cafety in] Ope yw > wheels, dust band, depresse e a 6¢ seconds ° ° : Mes Al Bs > nici cuaoa
PECEUSE Dane ale aaarea Riel winding and Louis XV white enamel dial Vath isonoetain. W. Co,” Price-List pered breguet hairspring, safety pinion |
| wheels “dust bane fonian’ GE arabic white Hands for all furnished on shel pigs ideas ponEveD steel
| s, dust band, arabic wi ; pe winding wheels, dust band, roman or
enamel dial with monogram “T. W. Co.” grades and sizes Jobbers sell TRENTONS application aahte Tapreasad conver and eebende white

enamel] dial and red marginal figures,
Manufactured and guaranteed by the

;
TRENTON WATCH CO., Trenton, N. J., U.S.A. |

We manufacture a complete line of

FINE MOUNTED COMBS

In 14K., 10K., Sterling,
Gilt and Gold Filled

Also, all kinds of
PLAIN, REAL and IMITATION

Tortoise Shell Combs

Selection Packages sent
to Responsible Jewelers

We are receiving our usual ‘shower’

of orders and promptly filling each one.

Many buyers are prejudiced in our favor for the reason that they are assured of re- elas Wagner Manufacturing Co.
ceiving a Locket Line that will sell, whatever be the selection—each design is a EH

distinctive creation. No goods genuine without our trade-mark stamped inside.

41 Union Square, New York

MARK

over” Wightman & Hough Co, Ps

Repair Work a Specialty Factory, oars oi shies Ave.

Ty iE

October, 1905

Lessons in Horology

(Continued from page 1689)

equal and superpose; we would, therefore, have the equality of

the terms:
A’ M A’ A

AO! = ATO"

The arc A’ A is equal, in fact, to the arc A’ A, since the
rolling of the generating circle is effected without slipping ; the two
relations are, therefore,
equal and the point J7is
found, in consequence,
on the radius A 0’.
Since it relates to any
instant whatever of the
movement, this point,
therefore, does not leave

t : |
ag the diameter O A, which
! Dp Is, . then, properly the
rr trajectory sought.
= relia ‘

223. If one imag-
if ines the flank in any po-
KH is sition whatever, as, for
D, ie oe Canes instance, O’ D (Fig. 59),
Sat its point of contact WZ
will be obtained by erect-
ing to it the perpendicu-
lar A M The angle
A M O' being a right
angle, the point J7/ will
be found on the circum-
ference which has A O’ as
diameter ; consequently,
im flank gearings, the
location of the potnts of
contact ts the generating
circumference itself.

224. An analogous
reasoning to that which
we have developed for
a preceding case (213),
shows that in the simple
flank gearings the driving
can only take place on one
side of the line of centers.

225. In order that the contact of two similar teeth may com-
mence before the line of centers and end on the other side of that line,
it suffices if each tooth has a mzxed profile formed with a flank interior
to its primitive circle and with an epicycloidal part exterior, generated
by a circle with a diameter equal to the radius of the primitive circle
of the other wheel. Thus, for example (Fig. 60), the circle O”
furnishes in its successive rollings a flank O’ A for the wheel O’ and
a curve 4 J) for the wheel O. The circle O,” furnishes in an analo-
gous manner a flank O A for the wheel O and a curve 4 ZL for the
wheel O’

This combination is called ‘‘reciprocal’’ flank gearing. One
can, therefore, say that zz reciprocal flank gearings the driving
takes place on both sides of the line of centers.

Let us add that the form of reciprocal flank gearings cannot
be employed for interior gearings.

226. Two wheels with plane interior flanks and epicycloidal
curves exterior to the primitive circles should, according to the
generation of their profiles, be made especially for each other, since
a wheel cannot gear regularly in several others of different diame-
ters. This inconvenience is avoided for a series of wheels that one
wishes to make gear with the same wheel, by replacing in the wheels
of the series the straight flanks by curves, one chooses for generat-
ing circle of these interior curves and of the corresponding exterior
curve of the particular wheel, a constant circle whose diameter dif-
fers the least possible from the radii of the wheels of the series.

One encounters in horology an example of this case in the
gearings of the dial wheels and the setting wheels. The cannon
pinion drives the minute wheel, in which also gears the main setting
wheel ; this drives, in its turn, the small setting wheel (168).

COSe OF 44 4427S O28 BG Oe

Or -ceee eoeee ©

*enree

Woe Bnm ee ees eeseees cress

°o

Fig. 59

me Ys TF oO N EB 1691

An inverse movement is produced when the hands of the watch
are set to the hour, and it is then the small setting-wheel which
drives the other wheels. |

One can, in this case, take the circle O” half of the primitive
circle of the cannon pinion, as generating form of the exterior

0)
‘
/ \ DBD
i 0" f :
S ;
S ¢
‘ KY >:
eae WN ane
ve \ SS.
f
/ ' \ ‘
Dp ON
|
}:
f
7
a
Pgs
Pee. sees ee
0
Fig. 60

epicycloids of the wheels and afterwards make this same generating
circle roll in the interior of each of the primitive circumferences
considered, in order to obtain the interior form of the teeth, this
form is then a ‘‘hypocycloid’’ (Fig. 61).

J
’
‘
'
o
e
@
¢
¢
‘

Fig. 61

In practice, one substitutes very often straight lines for these
hypocycloids, and thus one obtains a general outline recalling that
of the flank gearings, although incorrect from the point of view of
its construction.

[TO BE CONTINUED}

orhens
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vs a Ze it “38 af sc = aK Oey

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, oman —! a
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" : erg Se , ’
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RED y Sirs k erg i %
_ Seanad .

hee.

U. S. Mint, Philadelphia

at its mints and assay offices, large consignments of old gold, refines same and remits proceeds by

a | express.
“L About 6 to 8 days’ time is required to get returns from which refining and coinage charges

are deducted and return expressage to pay.

The value placed by the U. S. Government on a consignment is absolute and final, from which
there is no recourse.

Wendell and Company accept at their assay offices and refineries small lots of Old Gold
($1 to $250), remit full value at once by draft, before refining, and hold consignments until valuations
are accepted.

If there is any doubt about the valuation placed upon a consignment by them, it is immediately
returned in its original condition, express charges prepaid.

Their large business requires complete assaying, smelting and refining departme nts. Lhey handle without additional
expense and use in their own factories all old cold aad silver consigned to them. The difference in the value of old gold
(before refining) and fine gold (after refining) 1s “their profit, which is very much smaller than it would have to be if they con-
ducted a separate refining business with a large investment in plants and expenses ranging from 15 to 25 per cent. of the
value of old metal received.

THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT DOES NOT BUY OLD SILVER

It accepts same for refining, and returns the fine silver in bars, less the refining charges, by express.
Wendell and Company buy old silver outright at the full market value, which is governed by
the price of fine silver.

DO NOT PAY YOUR BILLS WITH OLD GOLD OR SILVER

_ Sitti iii ==
» y a
™ » x .
be | ell = i!
i 4 }
cree <r TECEUREI Itt he ;
ir +
= : *

° ‘ > <4
bet Pe >
1B :

7 +t :

CERTA TURE ao :

ope ae \ 3

s - 5 2
salt ——

SULIT a

Sell it to Wendell and Company for full cash value and pay your bills — : aw
with the returns. You will save much by so doing. Most of the firms that YY | Cea
take gold and silver on account do not use it themselves ; nor have they any Ved, ah2\. lel
means of ascertaining its exact value, but depend on others, who place a — fale oge
value on it that will afford two profits. F hal fel | iat Si)

cae

WENDELL AND COMPANY. 5 | ee
ASSAYERS, SMELTERS AND REFINERS. !
Established 23 years.

cosmos Wiliam St Polishings, crucibles, bench and floor sweeps economically handled and er Watlington St
New York proceeds promptly remitted, Chicdes

October, 1905

THE ART OF ENGRAVING

To fill one of the chief wants of the trade in technical
instruction we have compiled this serial, which will be con-
tinued monthly till completed. It is the most complete treatise

ever written on this subject, being wider in scope and more
copiously illustrated than any previous work on engraving.
Those who desire the entire serial at once may procure same
in book form, a handsome volume, bound in silk cloth, con-
taining over 200 pages and 216 specially executed illustrations.
A copy of the book will be sent postpaid to any part of the

world on receipt of price, $1.50 (6s. 3d. )

(Continued. Part XXXII. Begun in March, 1903)

The middle stroke of an E or an F is cut in’the manner
described in our preceding issue, it being, of course, necessary to
cut in both directions.

At Fig. 125 we illustrate the method of
cutting this stroke in fine lines. The lines
should all be cut down, each succeeding line
being shorter; then a line cut down across

the extreme tops of these lines, as

shown at Fig. 126. These lines |
are sometimes cut by beginning |
all at the same point and gradually ——
swelling out. This produces a ie:
star effect, which is entirely wrong.

For this reason the engraver is especially advised to
follow the methods shown at Figs. 125 and 126, It
will not be necessary to describe the methods of wriggling Roman
letters, as this class of letter is very seldom cut in any way other than
mentioned. If, however, it is desired to cut them in any other way,

Fig. 126

Bo 6 Dee Ee ch eG

Posed hia. avi US

ix ©

ls ee
Oo ae eh OE
WOUNDS OY 7 eee
42 8 4-5-6 7 seo 0

Fig. 126 A

sufficient knowledge of wriggling as applied to old English is known
to the student to be able to easily apply it to this class of letter.
At Fig. 126A we illustrate the complete Roman alphabet and figures.
At Fig. 127 we illustrate the word ‘‘Engrave’’ in
the Japanese style of lettering. These letters can
be cut to the best advantage with a flat-face graver,

the size of which will

depend upon the size
Fig. 127

Odd Letters

of the letter. The
graver should be as
wide as the widest
portion of the letter.
It will be seen that the
letters are simply composed of lines starting in a fine line and
ending up heavy, gradually increasing from the hair line to the wide
stroke. These and other letters to follow under this head are to
be used in such places as the engraver will find that they can be
used to best advantage. Of course, it must be acknowledged, and
the student is advised that script letters and old English are the
styles used mostly by engravers. The class of lettering we are
considering under this head is seldom used, but a knowledge of the
method of cutting it will be found very useful and in some cases
valuable. This is especially true when applied to lettering sou-
venirs and bowls of teaspoons, where possibly this class of letter-

THE KEYSTONE 1693

ing is most used. We often find very cheap napkin rings, children’s
cups and inexpensive souvenirs engraved in such letters.

At Fig. 128 we illustrate a style of letter which might properly
be called a piccadilly letter. These letters are composed of several
cuts, one of which is shown at 4. It will be seen that the three
widest portions or the wide extremity of the letters
are illustrated at points indicated by the letter C,
Fig. 128. This style of letter is very often used
by engravers in ornamental work.

At Fig. 129 we have a block letter H, with the
left half perfectly plain and the right half with the
little cut, after the style of those which compose the

letter shown at Fig. 128, added to each of the
H . E

corners of the letter. The arrow & and the cut
Fig. 129

Fig. 128

directly under it illustrates the direction in which
these cuts are made in the lower right-hand
corner of a letter. The cuts are made by
cutting in the extreme corners of all the let-
ters, allowing the graver to increase the width of the incision as
it advances, thus making the letters pointed, as shown in the right
half of the letter H. To complete the letter H in this style would
necessitate eight strokes. The E, same figure, would also neces-
sitate eight strokes. The upper and lower left corners of the letter
E require one cut only. This work can be reduced by making the
cuts very short, allowing them to protrude beyond the corners of
the letters only a very little, which would make the letters, if they
were very small, appear to be very sharp and pointed, while if they
are allowed to be drawn out farther, as shown in the letter H, an
effect will be produced which would change the general appearance
of the letter radically. This method of squaring up letters is
sometimes used in cutting letters for printing in order to make the
corners very sharp. A letter cut in this style is very useful for
prominent lettering such as would be used on a dog collar or some
coarse piece of work. It can be done on very fine work, but usually
heavy lettering is not used on that class of work, unless it is
outlined and filled in.

At Fig. 130 we illustrate what is known as a cap block letter.
We have already told how to cut block letters and all the technical
points in connection therewith. In this illustration we
merely show that these letters can be changed in their
general formation by adding a bar across the end of the
bars, as shown here, and are then known as cap block
letters. They can be cut in the various forms previously 4y,. 430
mentioned for cutting plain block letters, and can also be
shaded as in plain block letters. A letter of this kind on a coffin
plate can be engraved so as to appear very showy and neat by
wriggling the vertical bars coarse with a narrow graver, and with
a wider graver wriggling the horizontal and angular bars very fine.
Then add the shade on the lower right side.
At Fig. 131 we illustrate the word ‘‘ Harmoniums”’

Block Letter in a block letter shaded at the top only. We illus-

Shaded trate this style of letter to show the student how
a slight shade will change the position of the
letter. As here seen the letters appear to be tipped forward at the

top. The opposite effect would be produced if the shading was
reversed and placed at the bottom. Letters to be cut in this style
should be designed and outlined very accurately, and then cross
lined as here shown. The white portion of the letter at the top, it
is unnecessary to say, is not cut at all. The dark showing between

the letters and just above the top of the letter is made by cutting a
series of fine lines.
the end, is made with a square graver.

The ornamental work above the word, and at
In fact, the entire illus-

tration is made by a series of fine lines, all of which is done with
the one tool, the square graver. Such work as this is seldom
practical, except in a very elaborate inscription on a fine piece of
work, and is referred to here for the benefit of the student from an
artistic standpoint, showing him the effect of shading.

(TO BE CONTINUED)

1694

ESTABLISHED 1854

INCORPORATED 189{

JueRGeENS & ANDERSEN Co.
DIAMONDS, PEARLS

MAKERS OF FINE JEWELRY
Q2 TO 908 STATE STREET
CHICAGO

23-25 LOOWERSGRACHT, AMSTERDAM, HOLLANO

Don’t Buy a Case of Us

’

because you like the name ‘‘Silent Salesman’”’ or because we’ve been
in business over forty years.

Investigate—look into our goods and the guarantee that goes with
them.

The fact that we’ve made more good cases than all the other facto-
ries combined is not sufficient reason either why you should pick us.

Go into your store-equipment investigation with an open mind.
Use the same judgment you do in buying merchandise, and—

We'll Take a Chance

JOHN PHILLIPS & CO., Ltd.

Established 1864

WINDSOR
ONT.

DETROIT
MICH.

TRADE MARK

P. 8.—Ask for our Catalogue of improved store front bars before remodeling your
store front.

The Perfect Shape Umbrella

No Springs

No Screws,

Can be placed in a trunk

Should our representative
not reach you, write for
samples. Will send ex-
press paid.

“MAIDEN BALTIMORE”

As-a jeweler you want exclusive
designs. This we vive you.

Wemake UDMBRELLASand CANES
for the jewelry trade, of sterling quality,
which you can sell with a guarantee (we
stand back of this).

Our latest patent DETACHABLE
HANDLE UMBRELLA has proven the
greatest seller in the umbrella trade. It
is exclusive (being our own patent), and
without springs, screws or levers, it is
impossible to get out of order, and there-
fore the best.

We are now showing our Fall and
Holiday line of exlcusive designs in ster-
ling and gold-trimmed pearls and hand-
carved ivorys. We warrant our sterling
silver 5%%,°5 fine and our gold to wear
from five to twenty years.

Siegel, Rothschild & Co.

418-420 West Baltimore Street

Baltimore

October, 1905 T Hi E K E Y Ss TON E 1695

How to Make a Hall Clock Case door, and it is made so as to lock. The face is made of wood with the figures
burned on, or of metal. If preferred, the enameled zinc or tin face usually

e ° A. — ~ j d 1] } = .
HE accumulative prosperity that has invigo- supplied with the clock movements may be used, though we like the wood
CY

rated, broadened and evolved to a higher
degree of perfection almost every industry
in the land has been espe-
cially favorable to the

or metal better. The face is twelve inches square. If the case is made of
mahogany, a brass face is most appropriate; if of oak, a copper face. Ifa
wooden face is used it should be of a light colored wood with fine grain, such as
holly or orange.

clock industry. Stimu- MILL BILL FOR CLOCK
lated by the demand for fs ——Rough -———Finish———
all manner of clocks the pale ee Be: Heng Wide Thick Wide Thick
: SideSie, se aa skeen ee 72 in. 10% in. 13% in. TO: “ift, 1% in.
manufacturers readily de- ODE tp sen Ba eohemeel hate ol See I 23 in. EL © i: 13% in. 103f in. rf in.
parted from the conven- Bottommeraus) ss 6 2 eee 2 23 in. 4% in. 1 in. A in, © An:
tional patterns, and we see ae Such eye Selse ae ee 2 66 in. 2% in. Te wali 1% in. % in.
GOP Tals. 4.5. zack Skt oe ee 5 in. 2¥ in. f “An: 2 in. % ji
now have clocks of all 5! /a} ue Zs in.
F ae aot all ILOWwer GOor rail) .o. se ee a TF 15 in. 3% in. EY “Ins oa. % in.
orms an cpa and Ola Door mulltons: fae. =. 3 47 in. 1 in. rh nin: E11, % in.
manner of materials, clocks Door mullions «2... . . 1 15 in. 1 in, ‘if: t An: % in.
with hands and clocks Back sileés) |. JaeG 22. 2 50 in. a iN: i iil. 2% in. 3¢ in.
« . bf “ ° ° ° Pus
without, hall clocks, Mis- Has rails ; Sakes whe 2) acne 18 in. 6% in. E an: 6 in. 3f in,
. ACK (patiel) a0 igen ee chen Sts I In. 14% in. 3f in. 14 in. ly in.
sion clocks, French clocks, P ig 4/2 : M cae: pa
D ee ad Bottom’ “lia ies I 19 In. 8% in. tinh 8 in. % in.
utc clOoCcKS, mMmyrla Back door stiles . . hee Ig in. 234 in. I 4th. 2% in. 3¢ in.
styles of mantel clock, Back: doofr patiell . . . 4 = 2 T4 in. 14% in. 3f in. 14 in. ¥y in,
office clock, den clock, Movement shelf . . I Ig in. 534 in. i hae 5 in % in.
. . . J ° V4 . Pais
etc., in short, as many SOPs) <2 4 2 72 In. 1% in. 34 In, 1 in ¥% In,
clock novelties as inventive
genius can produce, and 2 SS RT
it would seem as if a ieee an ake] |
ready market awaited i
all of these.
F >
One of the novelties Ww
which many have made
for themselves is rustic SHELF
FoR
clocks. These are 7 CLOCK
MOVEMENT

made from branches of trees —the more rugged the
more picturesque—so assembled as to form a crude
case. This form of clock is capable of infinite
variety, and many quaint timepieces have been
evolved from the crude material. But a special
favorite of the time is the Mission clock, which
now reigns in all its sombreness in many homes.
The mission style is, of course, adaptable to all
kinds of clocks, but seems to be specially suited
for hall clocks. The mission idea is probably too
sombre to be permanently popular, but its suitability
for the dignified time-teller in the hall is beyond
question. This modern replica of the grandfather's
clock calls for strength, solidity, dignity of form
and duskiness of appearance and all these qualifi-
cations are idealized in the heavy and sombre
mission styles, with their durable workmanship and
absence of decoration. There is nothing puzzling
or exacting about the construction of these cases
which cun be made in odd moments by any craftsman

SCALE FOR
PETAILS ABOVE
© 3 & 9 (2

brated

UMMC ST Aah te

ECNLARGEP -~
SECTION «OF
A -TTULLIOTMe

of ordinary ability.

In a recent issue of Zhe Craftsman
appeared an instructive article on hall clocks and Ege cy

giving specifications for the construction of the

case. The article stated:

This simple, yet almost necessary piece in a
well-equipped house, is made of oak, mahogany or
other suitable hard wood. It is six feet high, with
a door the whole size of the front. The upper

—_/o ——-

DE OLGIt- FORK
A- CLOCK =>

part is a glass panel and the lower is filled with SCALE. e re ws -
square panes. Small butt hinges are used for the t ; a Reet i

1696

The Best Time

From October to January you will probably have
more use for a good Ring Stretcher than any other time
Ol the year.

Your holiday trade will soon begin to move, and you
should be fully prepared to meet all Regi: inds promptly.

Our Perfect Ring Stretcher will help you not
only in meeting these demands in making quick sales, but
in reducing heveieat thensteck of plain rings that you
have to carry.

If you have not tried our Stretcher let us have the
name of your Tool Jobber and he will gladly send you
one of these indispensable tools on approval.

\| We would be glad to mail you copies of our latest catalogue.

The W. W. Oliver Manufacturing Co.

MANUFACTURERS

1490-1492 Niagara Street Buffalo, N ° be U.S.A.

COOPER DIAMOND CO.

8th Ave. and 18th Street, Brooklyn, N.Y.

NET PRICE-LIST FOR RE-CUTTING AND POLISHING DIAMONDS

RAs, fs tone, SI. 50 eac ch | 4. Ct. Stone, $5. 00 © ach
es 3 2525 ‘Pte + 5-50
i, i 3.00 i ae. 6.25

: ee Ve z250) =) (eit 7.00

ye ot A.0G.. © toa | OE 7-50

yt ~~ 4.50 g tot 8.00

Above 2 Ct. at rate of $4.00 per Carat
Lapidary Repair Work, $1.00 to $3.00 each Stone

800 NEW DESIGNS IN DIAMOND MOUNTINGS
It we have not got what you want, will make it

DIAMONDS SENT ON MEMORANDUM

October, 1905

Electricity for Jewelers

(With this article we begin the publication of an illus-
trated serial on the above important subject. The serial will
cover very thoroughly the subject of electricity in its various
applications to the work of the jeweler and optician. An
instalment will appear iu each issue,—ED. |

What jewelers most need for practical
work is not a knowledge of all the intricacies
of the science, but a thorough comprenen-
sion of a few of the fundamental principles—
those which are brought into play in every-
day workshop life. We shall take up those
principles, with such explanations and ex-
amples as are necessary to make the reader
familiar with them, and able to consider new
problems as they arise from day to day and
work them out for himself.

A battery is an electro-chemical appa-
ratus for producing a ‘‘current’’ of electricity.
It does not produce electricity, but an electric
current or flow, as it is generally expressed.
In its simplest form, which will illustrate the
principle as well as any, it consists of two
plates of dissimilar metals (or of a metal and
carbon) immersed in a solution adapted for
keeping the surfaces of the plates clean and
fresh. One of the plates acts or is acted
upon by the solution, and it is called the
active or ‘‘positive’’ plate or ‘‘ electrode ;”’
the other is not acted upon, and is called
Zinc 1s

the ‘‘negative’’ plate or electrode.
the metal generally employed for the positive
plate, and copper or carbon for the negative.

Fig. 1 represents such a battery, Z being
the zinc plate, and C the copper, arranged
parallel to each other ina solution of sulphuric
acid in water (say 7 parts of water to I part
of acid), which fills the jar / up to the dotted
both
copper and the zinc are slowly dissolved by
3ut if

we connect these metals, above the solution,

cross line. When so arranged, the

the acid and no current is produced.
by a conductor of electricity, say by copper

wires w w, a current of electricity flows
through the wires and the copper plate ceases
to be acted upon by the acid. Only the zinc
is now dissolved, and the quantity of zinc
consumed is in proportion to the current
produced. The explanation is, that the two

metals are differently related to the acid
solution, both chemically and _ electrically,
the zinc being more “‘ electro-positive ’’ than
the copper, in consequence of which it is
acted upon chemically and produces an
electric current from itself fo the copper, by
which the copper is protected as long as the
current continues.

Every current flows through a complete
circle or “‘circuit,’? of conducting material.
If there is no complete unbroken circuit for
it to flow through, there will be no current
at all. It invariably flows from the positive
to the negative metal in the solution, 7. @., in

Fig. 1 it flows from the zinc to the copper,

HH EG

as indicated by the arrow below them. It
then passes through the copper up to the
through ww, around to the zinc
This

How continues while the circuit is closed and

wire wW,
plate, and so completes the circuit.

complete (called a ‘‘ closed circuit’’), but if
it is opened or broken at any point (called

ary

‘open circuit’’) the current stops.

The portions of the plates outside of the
solution have nothing to do with producing
current; they are only useful for holding the
plates in position and making connections
with the external circuit, by means of bind-
ing posts and screws. These posts are called
the ‘‘poles’’ of the battery. The one ozt of
which the current flows is called the positive

pole and marked -}, the other is the negative
pole and is marked —, being the one into
which the current flows on its return to the
battery. By tracing out the circuit you will

see how it comes about that the positive pole

is on the negative plate of the battery, and

an
Z
g
g
3

LLLFIAP POE ALLA OO.
CLPAPOFDDS AIP FS 2 SAE

es
jal af ufa/eyayalofa

Fig. 2

Fig. 1
the negative pole on the positive metal.
Such an arrangement is usually called a cup
or “seell’* ot battery.

A current of water flowing through a
chute or opening at the bottom of a reser-
voir is measured by its volume, multiplied by
the pressure. The size of the opening gives
the volume of the stream, and the height of
the water above the opening is the head or
pressure forcing it out. The greater the
pressure or head, the more water escapes per
second. Ina similar way, a current of elec-
tricity has volume and electric pressure. The
pressure 1s more properly termed ‘ electro-
motive force,’’ and is expressed not in feet
or inches, but in ‘‘ volts.’? Such a battery
as described gives an E.M.F. (electro-motive
force of about 1 volt. The volume of a cur-
rent of water depends on the resistance it
meets to its escape, being’ greater as the
opening is larger and the resistance less. So
the volume of an electric current depends on
the resistance it meets in the circuit through
which it flows; the larger the cross-section of
the conductor, the less the resistance, and
the greater the volume of current which
flows. This volume is expressed in ‘‘am-
peres,’’ and the current is measured by
multiplying the number of amperes in the
current by its E.M.F. in volts; the product

SK & YS Tf ©-wN EB

1697

)

is said to be so many ‘‘ watts’’ of current.

Thus, a current of 10 volts and 2 amperes
An electric

For

would be 10 X 2 = 20 watts.
current has energy, and can do work.
comparison of electricity with steam and
other power, it may be stated that 1 horse-
power 1s equal to 746 watts of current.

A very clear explanation of the elec-
trical terms ‘‘volt’’ and ‘‘ampere’’ might
here be made by using the analogy of a
waterfall to explain. Say we have a current

fe have a
turbine-wheel and allow a thousand gallons a

of water and a turbine-wheel.
second to fall from a height of one foot on
the turbine we get a certain power, we will say
one-horse power. Now, the one foot of fall
will represent one foot of pressure in elec-
tricty, and the thousand gallons will repre-
sent the ampere or the amount of the current.
We will call that one ampere. Thus we have
a thousand gallons of water or one ampere,
falling one foot or one volt, or under one
volt of pressure, and the water working the
turbine-wheel gives one-horse power. If,
now we go a thousand feet high and take
one gallon of water and let it fall on the
wheel, we will get the same power as before,
We

thousand times less current or less water and

viz., one-horse power. have got a
we will have a thousandth of an ampere in
place of one ampere, and we will have a
1000 volts in place of one volt, and we will
have a fall of water a thousand as against
one foot. Now, the fall of the water, or the
height from which it falls, is the pressure or
volts in electricity and the amount of water
is the amperes.

In diagrams of electrical apparatus, the
battery is generally represented, not by a
drawing of the cells, as in Fig. 1, but bya
number of thin parallel lines, alternating
with shorter and thicker ones, as shown in
Figs. 2, 3, etc. One thin and one thick line
together represent 1 cell of battery, and
these are repeated to designate the number
of cells of which the battery consists. Thus,
5 couples indicate 5 cells, and so on.

The number of kinds of

legion.

batteries is
They may have two metals and one
solution, two solutions and one metal, two
solutions and two metals, or one solution
With
each arrangement may be employed different
metals and different kinds of solutions. The
and the same materials

and one metal in two different states.

same arrangement
may have many different relative positions
and forms. But in all of them the funda-
mental principle is the same as explained :
the production of electro-motive force by
chemical action, setting up a current when a
complete conducting circuit is offered. In
selecting a battery, reference should be had
to the purpose for which the current is re-
quired, There are three general types of

(Continued on page 1701)

11! A REMINDER!!!

Our Representatives are out and in your vicinity.
Defer making your purchases—await their arrival, as our latest produc-
tions are business and money-makers FOR YOU.

Ask to see the BETSY ROSS

Howard, Waltham, Elgin, Keystone, Philadelphia, Crescent, New England
Cases and Movements.

RAILROAD MOVEMENTS

Ansonia, Seth Thomas, Sessions and Ingraham Clocks.

Diamonds, Watches, Jewelry, Cut Glass, Silver, Bric-a-Brac

WHOLESALE ONLY

LEONARD KROWER
526 and 536° Canal Stréet NEW ORLEANS, LA:

“Home ; Phone, 1765 | Main

DICKS SRHOGNOGNOG COKS aos

October, 1905

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Subscribers wishing inquiries answered in this department
must send name and address—not for publication, but as an
evidence of good faith. No attention will be paid to anony-
mous communications. Questions will be answered in the
order in which they are received.

An INDEX to the questions answered in Workshop Notes
department for each year accompanies each December number.
Subscribers are requested to preserve these indexes, and, before
mailing questions,to refer to them,as similar questions may have
been answered in previous issues. These indexes are arranged
alphabetically, according to subject covered in each answer, and
tell the issue and page on which the information may be found.

‘““ Clock Dials.’’—Kindly let me know through
‘““ Workshop Notes’ the solution to use for resilver-
ing clock dials ?—Take of nitrate of silver crystals
1 dram and dissolve in 2 ounces of water contained
in a glass or earthen vessel. In another glass or
earthen vessel dissoive 3 drams of pure cyanide of
potassium in 1 ounce of water. Pour both solu-
tions into a six-ounce bottle and shake well. At
first they will be black but soon settle clear; then
add r ounce of whiting. Pour out enough of the
solution to do the job in hand and apply the fluid
with a stiff brush, rinse well with pure’ water. If
any of this solution which has been poured out is
left over, do not put it back into the stock bottle.
Shake well before using to stir up the whiting. A
better process is done by what is called cold silver-
ing. Todo this dissolve some old scrap silver in
nitric acid reduced one-half with water. After the
silver is all dissolved, add eight times the bulk of
water, and then common salt as long as any pre-
ciptate is formed. The white precipitate is chlo-
ride of silver. Let settle and pour off the
supernatant fluid; then pour on more water, let
settle and again pour off the water, repeating the
operation three or four times to wash the precipi-
tated silver chloride. Dry this precipitate in the
dark, and add 3 parts by weight of carbonate of
potash (sal tartar) ; 1 part of whiting and 1% parts
of finely ground table salt. To use this mixture
wet a large even-textured cork with water and dip
in the mixture and rub the surface to be silvered,
which must be bright and free of grease. Aftera
good coating of silver is formed, rinse well with
pure water and dry by heating. Whencoolrub with
clean, soft chamois skin and varnish with white

collodion lacquer.

Glass.’—Will you let me know when and
where glass was first made, also when first used
for watch glasses?—The invention of glass
dates from the earliest antiquity, and the honor
of its discovery has been contested by several
nations. As the oldest known specimens are Egypt-
ian, its invention may with great probability be
attributed to that people. It is mentioned as early
as the fifth or sixth dynasty, and called dashnuu, the
Coptic 4777,» and articles made of it are represented
in the tombs of the period; while its fabrication is
depicted in sepulchres of the twelfth dynasty—i. e.,
about B. c. 1800. An Egyptian specimen now in
the British Museum has on its underside hierogly-
phics giving the name Nuantef IV., whose data is
assigned by Lepsius as B. C. 2423-2380. The
glass of Egypt was generally opaque, rarely trans-
parent, and always colored, the articles made of it
being of small size, and principally for adornment,
as beads, vases, small figures and objects for inlay-
ing into wood or other material. Specimens exist
of this glass bearing the name of the Queen Hatasu
of the eighteenth dynasty, B. c. 1445, and vases of
blue glass with wavy lines in white, light-blue,
yellow, black, red and green, of that and a later
age, have been discovered. The Egyptians also
successfully imitated precious and other stones in
glass—as emeralds, lapis lazuli, turquoises, jaspers,
onyx and obsidian; for this purpose, they used
nearly the same materials as at present—man-
ganese, copper, iron, cobalt, gold and tin. Trans-
parent glass, indeed, does not appear earlier in
Egypt than the twenty-sixth dynasty, about B. C.
750, when bottles and a few other objects—as
figures for inlaying, and beads imitating gems—
were made of it. According to Herodotus, the
Ethiopians, two centuries later, placed their mum-

THE

mies in glass coffins; but the fact has never been
proved by the discovery of such coffins. Under
the native Pharaohs, Egyptian glass seems to have
been extensively exported to Greece and Italy,
and its reputation continued under the Ptolemies,
when the furnaces of Alexandria produced glass
vases of numberless shapes and considerable size.
At this period, the Egyptians invented the m2l/eflori
glass, consisting of small threads of glass arranged
vertically and then fused, so that the whole
rod thus formed was of one pattern; and by cut-
ting cff slices, each piece produced the same
pattern. The beads of madrepore glass found in
the tombs of Greece and Italy, and formed by
placing slices of such rods ina mold and fusing
the whole, are probably of Egyptian or Phcenican
origin. Egypt retained the pre-eminence in the
manufacture under the Romans, the sand of Alexan-
dria being indispensable for the finest qualities,
and it exported glass to Rome. Hadrian, on his
visit, was struck with the activity of the manu-
fu.cture, and sent to his friend, the Consul Servianus,
one of the vases, called allosontes or ‘‘ opales-
cent;’’ and the Roman writers mention with
admiration the melting, turning and engraving of
Egyptian glass. To the most flourishing period of
the empire are to be referred certain vases and
slabs with white camei figures of fine execution in
relief on a blue background, and plates of opaque
glass for inlaying the walls of rooms, such as those
which are said to have decorated the mansion of
the usurper Firmus. The art of glass making, in
fact, has never become extinct in Egypt, the Fati-
mite caliphs having issued glass coins in the tenth
and eleventh century, and beautiful lamps of glass
enameled on the surface with various colors hav-
ing been made in the fourteenth century. Although
the art has fallen to the lowest ebb in Egypt, the
workmen are said to show aptitude in its pro-
duction. After the Egyptians, the people of
antiquity most renowned for glass were the Phceni-
cians, who were the legendary inventors. Certain
of their merchants, it is said, returning in a ship
laden with natron or soda, and having been com-
pelled by stormy weather to land on a sandy tract
under Mount Carmel, placed their cooking pots on
lumps of natron on the sand, which fused by the
heat of the fire, formed the first glass. Sidon,
indeed, was long celebrated for glass wares made
of the sand brought down from Mount Carmel to
the mouth of the river Belus. The nature, how-
ever, of the earliest Phoenician glass is unknown,
unless the opaque little vases of the toilet found in
the tombs of Greece and Italy, and the beads of
the same discovered in the barrows and tumuli of
the old Celtic and Teutonic tribes, were imports
from the Phoenicians. The vases of Sidon were,
however, highly esteemed at Rome under the
Antonines, fragments of bowls of blue and amber
glass with the names of the Sidonian glass makers,
Artas and Irenzeus, stamped in Latin and Greek,
have been found in the ruins. Perhaps the Assy-
rian glass vases were made at Sidon; at all events,
the earliest stated specimen of transparent white
glass is the vase having upon it stamped or en-
graved in Assyrian cuneiform a lion and the name
of Sargon (reigned B. c. 722), found at Nimrud by
Mr. Layard; and glass seems to have been im-
ported to or even made in Assyria as late as the
time of the Parthians, when Nineveh became the
Roman colony of Claudiopolis. Under the Sassa-
nides, molded glass vessels, elaborately decorated
were made, as shown by the cup of Chosroes, A. D.
531-579, in the Louvre; and Persia continued to
manufacture glass vessels in the middle ages. The
Arabs seem to have derived their glass from the
Byzantines, and specimens introduced into Europe
by the Crusaders were called in royal and other
inventories Damascus glass ; this was colored and
not plain. Although the art of glass making
appears to have been practiced in remote times
this nation does not appear to have attained any
proficiency in it, and is content at the present day
to remelt European glass; while some of its
highest efforts do not exceed the imitation of jade
and other stones. There is still in the East an
extensive use of glass beads, made chiefly at
Khalib or Heron. Glass was equally unknown to
the Hindus, except in the preduction of a few
trinkets and inferior objects, till the settlement of
Europeans in India; and the country was, at the
remotest period, supplied by Phoenician, and, in
the middle ages, by Venetian traders. Although
Josephus claims the invention of the art of the
ews, no remains of Jewish glass are known, and

it is probable that the Jews were indebted for their

KEYS TONE

1699

supplies principally to the neighboring cities of
Tyre and Sidon. Even in Greece itself glass was
not ancient. In the days of Homer it was un-
known. Herodotus, indeed, mentions its employ-
ment for ear-rings, but these may have been
of Phoenician fabric. It was called hyados, crystal
or ice, and “thos chyte or fusible stone. Aristo-
phanes, B. C. 450, mentions glass or crystal vessels,
and various inscriptions confirm its use, but its
value was next to gold, which could hardly have
been the case if it had been of native manufacture.
The glass making art in Italy does not cate earlier
than the commencement of the Roman Empire,
importations from Sidon and Alexandria having
previously supplied the lack of native manufacture ;
but there is ample evidence of its extensive manu-
facture at that period having been introduced in
the days of the Ptolemies, large plates being used
for incrusting chambers, witree camere; and
hollow columns of this material, with lamps inside,
were used to illumine the public theaters. As
early as B. C. 58, the theater of Scaurus had been
decorated with mirrors or glass plates, disposed on
the walls. Glass was used also for paving, and for
the blue and green tesserze of mosaics window glass
does not appear till about the third century after
Christ, the houses at Herculaneum, destroyed in
the reign of. Titus, being glazed with talc and some
doubt remaining as to the use of glass for this
purpose at Pompeii. Lactantiusin the third century
and St. Jerome, 422, mention glass windows.
Other windows of this material are said to have
been found in Ficulnea, and even in London.
Under the Romans, colored as well as white glass
was extensively used ; it had a greenish tint in the
first days of the Empire, but had sensibly improved
in color and quality in the days of Constantine.
The first production of white glass like crystal was
in the days of Nero. As far as the use of glass in
horology is concerned, entire cases of rock crystal
were common in the last quarter of the sixteenth
century, while glasses or ‘‘ crystals’’ were not in use
for about fifteen or twenty years later, or about
1615. Rock crystal, however, was used for the
purpose of protection as early as 1550.

““Alumt.’—I have been watching your col-
umns for some time in the hope of learning how to
solder aluiminum—especially spectacles, which I
have been told has been done. Can you help me
out ?—The soldering of aluminum is a matte that
has not been thoroughly solved as yet. There are
experimenters who have been working at the
problem for years. We have given in these col-
umns formule for doing such work, although
always stating that it is a most unsatisfactory pro-
cess. You can locate such replies with the aid of
the index accompanying each December issue.
Below we give a formula that recently appeared in
Popular Mechanics: What is reported to be the
most successful solder for aluminum yet secured,
consists of tin 64 parts by weight, zinc 30 parts,
lead 1 part, and aluminum I part, to which add a
small portion of resin. To solder, clean the sur-
faces and face with the solder. No chemical is
used, but the surfaces of the parts to be soldered
should be gently heated to assist in making a good
adhesion. While the foregoing may give good
results, we rather think it would be a good plan to
use a ferrule on such a delicate piece of work as a
spectacle. In fact, we lean to the opinion that a
new frame would be the cheapest in the end, and
also the most satisfactory.

“ Tort.”’—Will you kindly inform me how to
distinguish genuine tortoise shell combs from tmt-
tation ?—lf we bear in mind one remarkable quality
of genuine tortoise shell in being easily softened
by a heat equal to that of boiling water and of
retaining any form when cold that has been given
to it when heated, it is not likely that we will be
caught by the imitation. Again, it would be quite
easy to tell the difference by having a piece of the
known genuine article and keep it for comparison
with any suspected piece that comes along. There
are certain marked characteristics, best judged by
the eye, that cannot be very well imitated; conse-
quently the test by comparison is not only as good
as any other for the determination of the genuine,
but it is cleanly and avoids all bother necessary to

- other tests.

————————————_—__l
THERE IS GOOD MONEY

in your old gold and silver. You know it in your own heart. But how often do you realize the
full value?

Why not cut out all risks and ship your old metal, scraps and sweepings where you can depend
upon honest, bulging value? We have built up one of the oldest and largest businesses in this country
just on equitable and prompt returns. We have no intention of changing our methods,

Old Gold, 8 K.,
Old Gold, 10 K.,
Old Gold, 12 K.,
We pay for Old Gold, 14 K., é
Old Gold, 18 K., , :
Gold=Plated Scraps, 20 to 35c. an ounce
Old Silver (fluctuating) Very highest market price

Dollar for dollar you have from us. We make returns on sweepings within three to five
days. On receipt of shipment we will send you our check, subject to your approval of our offer—

then, in case our offer is not up to yours—we will return consignment intact and pay charges
both ways, you assume no risk—square deal all around.

THOMAS J. DEE & COMPANY

(apy Refiners and Smelters 07 & 69 Washington St., Chicago, Illinois
(OMEN

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(Kant Kum Off)
You Want It. Why?
alia | Because 1f represents c ~
«ae £ e* Ate = OY ee 2 ; : ;
VSR COm) €- 999 oe everything that is good in a
| bracelet; good wearing qual- |
: ity, handsome design and
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ce It is made in plain polished, satin, Old English, Roman, chased

Patent Pending

and stone set, and in three sizes, Large, Medium and Small.
Buy the “BATES” and you buy The Best.

Our line this season is much larger and better than ever, containing many new and handsome
designs in Fobs, Lockets, etc.

BATES & BACON, manuracturinc JEWELERS

NEW YORK OFFICE—9 Maiden Lane
CHICAGO OFFICE—103 State Street Attleboro, Mass.

October, 1905

Electricity for Jewelers

(Continued from page 1697)

battery principally used in practical work :
the Daniel or “‘ gravity,’’ the Leclanché and
the bichromate.

The gravity, or Daniels battery, is very
largely used, as it is not subject to polariza-
tion, and its E.M.F. remains constant what-
the
may be—being the nearest approach to a

ever resistance in the external circuit
constant battery that we have for practical
work. It will supply a moderate volume of
current regularly for a long time, but it 1s
not well adapted for being left unused for
some time and then suddenly called on for a
large volume of current, being a ‘‘ closed-
circuit battery,’’ 7. ¢., it can be left with the
circuit closed, to furnish current continuously
for long periods of time

The Leclanché is excellent for ringing
bells, signaling and other purposes requiring
But for
furnishing a large volume of current, as for

light currents for occasional use.

electroplating, for working large magnets or
It might
answer for small plating operations required

induction coils, it is of little use.

by watchmakers, but the gravity would be
better.
7. e., the circuit is to be normally open, and

‘

This is an ‘‘open-circuit battery,’’
is only closed while current is actually needed
for use, and opened again when the work has
It 1s very convenient to use,

been done.

however, requiring very little attention to
keep it in order.

When the Leclanché and the gravity
batteries (especially the latter) are not in use,
it is well to close the circuit through a high
several hundred ohms
the

negative relation of the elements, and pre-

resistance, say

Preserve

per
cell, t0 electro-positive and
veut the battery from being injured by acci-
the
action of the solutions on the plates or on

dental reversal of action or by local

each other. The bichromate batteries do not
need this precaution, as they are provided
with means for raising the zinc out of the
solution when not in use; which, of course,
protects them.

The bichromate or chromic acid cells
furnish a very powerful current for plating,

induction than

coils, etc.—more powerful
the nitric acid batteries, while they give off
no fumes and are ready for use ata moment’s
notice, even after being set aside for weeks.
fault
rapidly falls off during use, and it is neces-

Sut they have the that their force
sary to frequently stop the work and raise
the zinc out of the solution an instant to
depolarize it and produce circulation in the
liquid, then slide it down and go on with the
work. It is said that a small gas jet, arranged
under the cell, will heat it sufficiently to pro-

ede isa Ud ES

- — — - - : ~ ie a

duce a constant circulation of the liquid and
prevent polarization, so that it can be used
continuously till nearly exhausted without
any fall of the E.M.F. When the action
becomes sluggish add more sulphuric acid,
but not before. This is an open-circuit bat-
tery, as are the following.

Storage batteries are adapted for fur-
nishing very large currents, slowly or quickly,
as may be desired ; but, if laid aside for any
length of time, they gradually lose their
charge by internal or local action. Owing
to the necessity of constant recharging from
external sources, they are not fitted for gene-
ral use by jewelers.

Having thus given a general idea of the
subject, we will now come down to details,
explaining them according to the generally
accepted idea about currents, etc.

T:ilectro-motive Force, Coupling in Series :
Different batteries produce different E.M. F.
The Daniels or gravity gives about 1 volt,
the Leclanché 1.5 volts, and the bichromate
about 2 volts, the exact E.M.F. differring
according to the arrangement and nature of
The

only way to ascertain the exact E.M.F. of a

the elements composing the battery.

battery is to measure it, with a voltmeter or
other means. We shall treat the subject of
measuring apparatus and electric measure-
ment hereafter, but the foregoing items give
information enough for ordinary working.
When a greater E.M.F. is wanted than is
more are

furnished by one cell, enough

added to make it up. Thus, if 1 cell gives 1
volt, 10 of the same cells in series will give 10
volts, and so on. The cells are all arranged
in the same way, with the + pole of each
one connected to the — pole of the next,
and the two poles left free (at the ends of the
series) are the -+ and — poles of the whole
battery. This is called ‘‘ ro cells in series.’’
The current flows through all of them, and

- and has the combined E.M.F. of all the cells

in the series. Different kinds of battery can
be used together in a series, if desired, pro-
vided their poles are connected as described.
But small cells should not be put in series
with large ones except for using currents
adapted for the smallest; 7. e., such a
volume of current as the latter would furnish
if ‘‘short-circuited’’ by itself, or having
its poles connected without any external

resistance. [TO BE CONTINUED]

Inventions to Be Invented

An inventor recently enumerated the following
as inventions which would bring fame and fortune
to the inventor :

A silent typewriter. The great objection to
typewriters is their noise, yet it should be easy to
deaden the click of the keys.

An automatic stamp fixer. To affix a postage
stamp to a letter there is no method but the awk-

Keay Ss Lf OLN

I7O1

ward one of dampening the stamp and pressing it
on the envelope with the hand. The world needs
an automatic letter stamper. This should be an
instrument shaped like a seal. It should carry in
its interior a hundred or more stamps. Pressed
upon an envelope, an inside mechanism should first
moisten the stamp and then fix it firmly on the
letter. Such a contrivance, capable of stamping a
hundred letters a minute, would sell like hot cakes.

Some chemical solution that will make flannel
unshrinkable would, if patented, sell at a high rate.

A rotary toothbrush. Dentists clean their pa-
tients’ teeth with a brush, as round as a marble,
that revolves by electrical or by foot power. The
dentist moves the brush slowly over the teeth, and,
whizzing powerfully, it cleanses more thoroughly
than the violent rubbing of an ordinary toothbrush
could do. A rotary brush, revolving from the
pressure of the hand, would afford an easier and 2
better way to clean the teeth than the world now
possesses, and hence it would sell well.

A cheap substitute for rubber.

A flying machine.

Newspaper the Best Medium

The most experienced advertiser in the United
States says: ‘‘ Without depreciating the value of
any of the good advertising mediums, for there are
many, I wish to state emphatically, and without
qualification, that the newspaper is the best and
cheapest advertising medium for the retail adver-
tiser, and is the only local medium worthy of being
called ‘indispensable.’ ! cannot too forcibly im-
press upon you the intrinsic value of newspaper
advertising space. I base my opinion upon twenty-
five years of actual experience in weighing adver-
tising values. [am speaking through the head of
experience, and not through the hat of conceit,
nor have I any self-interest whatsoever.”’

Friendliness Among Competitors

Not so very long ago it was generally taken for
granted that one’s competitor was necessarily a
rival, and therefore an enemy, says the weekly
Implement Trade News.

It might be permissible, under favorable cir-
cumstances, to speak to him if one met him in
society or at a church, but that was about all; and
even to unbend that much was often esteemed a
weakness.

To call on him at his place of business, unless
to pick a quarrel with him over some actual or
fancied act of poaching on one’s preserves, would

-have been beneath one’s dignity, a confession of

cowardice, a signal for the competitor to keep an
eye on him in the belief that he was attempting to
sneak some of his trade secrets.

This picture is not extremely exaggerated, nor
is the condition like that of the giant lizards
recently unearthed, wholly of a previous age. But
thanks to the spirit of the modern association,
which is working like leaven throughout the trade
in the West,the old-time conditions are changing and
giving way to niore rational and neighborly ones.

It is possible now for competitors to be good
friends. It is not even considered necessary to
lock the safe and call in the clerk to defend one
when one sees his competitor entering one’s store.

In fact, while it probably would not look well
to see competitors in business hanging around one
another’s store too much, a reasonably frequent
call, to talk over mutually important business
affairs, would not be out of the way, and good
results could hardly help follow such a course.

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LOOKED THREE YEARS BEFORE DECIDING
Pror. F. W. SCHULER: Lynn, MAss.

DEAR SIR AND FRIEND—Doubtless you will be surprised to hear from me at this time,
but I cannot refrain from informing you of the marked success I have had since leaving your
school.

The knowledge obtained under your instruction has proven its value over and over again,
and I have had beautiful results with my complicated work.

lor three years previous to entering your school I looked the ground over very carefully,
and when I decided to cast my lot with you it was the longest step in the right direction that I
ever made.

To any young man who is desirous of a thorcugh knowledge of watchwork, engraving and
optics, I can only say, enroll yourself at once with the Philadelphia College of Horology, as
without doubt it is the peer of any institution in this country to-day. Sincerely wishing for a
continuation of your success, I am, Yours very respectfully,

15 Broad St. Place. H. B. DopGr.

Now is the time to get in your supply

Watches

What is there that offers to
the jeweler such novelty combined
with stability, such low price
coupled with reliability, and such
volume of sales at such fair
profits?

Progressive jewelers are daily
learning that Ingersoll watches
attract many to their stores and
make many new friends,

Send for new circulars and ask
about our new ladies’ watch.

| Peon sitet ttt ho LL, & BRO.

\ ‘‘Watchmakers to the American People ”’
e| 51 Maiden Lane 304 Masonic Temple
| NEW YORK CHICAGO

SBS ES ESS Sl

LD YOU GIVE TO DO AS WELL

HOW MUCH MORE MONEY

would your employer pay you if you were a first-
class engraver? You will see the advantage of
knowing how to engrave in the next month or so.
Better make up your mind to learn how. We
can teach you and it wont take long by our
method.

The demand for first-class Watchmakers,
Engravers and Opticians was never so great as it
is to-day and they are offering good salaries for
such workmen. There is not a Horological Col-
leve in this country that is better equipped to
make a thorough, practical Watchmaker, En-
eraver and Optician of you than we are. We have
the teachers who are experts, up-to-date methods,
tools and appliances and have had over eleven
years’ experience in teaching. Write for our
prospectus ; it will give you full information.

——

The Philadephia College of Horology

Broad and Somerset Sts., Philadelphia, Pa.

Established 1894 F. W. SCHULER, Principal

BOUDOIR ALARMS

SATIN GOLD FINISHED NOVELTIES

Fitted with our Celebrated Intermittent Alarm Movement, which
rings every twenty seconds for five minutes on a bell-metal gong on
back of clock. Alarm can be stopped by turning a switch.

HEATH ALARM

Height, 634in. Width, 5%4in. Dial, 2 in.

A NUMBER OF STYLES TO SELECT FROM

Write for Illustrations and Prices

THE NEW HAVEN CLOCK CO.

Dept. M NEW HAVEN, CONN.

i it a

Subscribers wishing inquiries answered in this department
must send name and address—not for publication, but as an
evidence of good fuith. No attention will be paid to anony-
mous communications. Questions will be answered in the
order in which they are received

“ Resist.’—I would like to know a good method
of plating part of an article and leaving other
parts unplated; for instance, in plating the bowl
of a teaspoon when you do not want any plating on
the back. Ihave sometimes used wax but it comes
off easily in the solution, Whatis a good way to
do such work ?—\f you use your solution warm,
we can readily understand why the wax comes off
the work, although if the temperature is not above
125° F. ordinary beeswax should prove satisfactory
as a *resist’’—this being the technical term of the
substance in question. Old wax is the best—it
seems that the oftener it is used the better it gets.
If you heat the solution above 125° you will find
asphaltum varnish to be an excellent resist, though
some workmen prefer the ordinzé ‘y shellac varnish,
which, in fact, is in most genera, use among manu-
facturers doing this class of work.

“‘Plates.’—Will you please tell me how to
vemove Silver from gold-plated chains that were
silver plated through a cynatde solution used for
cleaning silverwarve.—lf the chains acquired a
coating in such a solution, and there was no action
thereon by an electric current, it is quite possible
that you can remove the silver by polishing on the
lathe. If, however, the coating is very thick, it
will be necessary to remove the silver by a strip-
ping process, and it is not likely that a gold-plated
chain of the ordinary run will stand this treatment.
Of course, if the chains are gold filled (not plated),
there would be no danger in the operation. In
such stripping you could merely allow the chains
to play the part of the anode in a cyanide solution.
We would suggest that you try the polishing plan
before resorting to stripping.

“ Show Windows.’’— What can you recommend
to prevent dampness in show windows ?—The best
remedy for troubles of all kinds, whether mentai
or physical, is to remove the cause. Now, let us
investigate as to the cause of windows sweating.
The term ‘‘ windows sweating ’’ does not mean that
the moisture exudes from the pores of the glass,
but that moisture condenses on the glass from the
atmosphere immediately in contact with it. Itisa
well-known physical property of air that it will
hold and maintain in diffusion a certain amount of
water in a gaseous state, such state being main-
tained by heat, and any falling off in heat or, in
other words, lowering of the temperature outside,
causes the molecules of water diffused in the air to
unite and form drops, or ‘‘sweat’’ as the phenom-
enon is usually termed. There is a further cause
for such condensation on the glass, which lies in
the natural attraction between the surface of glass
and the molecules of water. The problem of con-
densation of water from the gaseous to the fluid
state, is a complicated one and requires a lengthy
explanation to make it understood. But it suffices
to say that molecules of water held in the air as a
vapor (that is, strictly in a gaseous state) are as
transparent as air and entirely invisible. At the
instant such molecules combine to form water they
part with the heat which held them in a gaseous
state and combine into water drops and attach
themselves to the glass, the glass probably taking
to itself the heat which held the water as gaseous
molecules. Now, in order to cause glass to sweat,
it must be brought to a lower temperature than the
air which holds the moisture. Hence, if we can
contrive to keep the temperature of the glass above
the condensing point of the moisture contained in
the air in contact with it, there will be no sweating.
If we cannot do this we must direct our efforts
toward reducing the humidity, that is the quantity
of moisture heid by the air which comes in contact

T HE

with the glass. This end can be achieved by plac-
ing in the window some substance like freshly-
burned lime stone, an open vessel containing strong
sulphuric acid, lumps of cyanide of potassium, and
many other substances having a chemical affinity
for water will do it; but all involve bother and
expense, and no suggestion has so far proved
entirely satisfactory. Gas burned in a show window
will generate moisture, actually produce water by
causing a combination of the oxygen of the air
with the hydrogen of the coal gas. Lights from
kerosene also generate water in the same way. In
fact, all lights arfsing from combustion produce
water, moisture, and consequently tend to produce
sweating of windows. Hence, electricity (prefer-
ably incandescent) lighting has the least tendency to
produce sweating of windows.

‘“‘Pennyweight.’’—I have alot of scrap gold,
amongst which is a lump of go dwt. mixed with
mercury. Willitingure the gold to melt all in one
crucible 2?—It will not injure the gold to melt all in
one crucible, although it would do no harm to give
the lump containing the mercury a preliminary
heating. It would not be necessary to carry it to
the melting point, for at about 600° F. the mer-
cury will be dissipated in vapor. This fact is taken
advantage of in present-day methods of mining—
the finely-divided gold is collected by means of the
mercury, which is then dissipated by heat; but in
the operation (on account of the large quantity
used), the mercury is carried by means of a flue to
a condenser, where it is gathered and used over
and over again.

‘“‘Foxy.’—For some time past, I have had
trouble with deposits from my gilding solution.
Can you advance reasons for tt ?—In the operation
of gilding, the color of the deposit may be influ-
enced momentarily in several ways. Assuming
that the current of electricity is neither too strong
nor too weak, and the bath in perfect order, if too
small a surface of anode is immersed in the bath,
the gold deposit will be of a pale yellow color. Or,
on the other hand, if too large a surface of anode
is exposed in solution, the deposit may be ofa
dark brown or ‘‘foxy’’ color, whereas the mean
between these two extremes will cause the deposit
to assume the rich orange-yellow color of fine or
pure gold. Again, the color of the deposit is
greatly affected by the motion of articles while in
the bath; for example, if the gilding be of a dark
color, by briskly moving the articles about in the
bath, they will quickly assume the proper color.
The temperature of the solution also affects the
color of the deposit, the tone being deeper as the
solution becomes hotter, and vice versa. The color
of the gilding is likewise much affected by the
nature of the current employed. A weak current
from a Wollaston or Daniell battery may cause the
deposit to be of a paler color than is desired,
whereas a Smee, Grove or Bunsen (but more
especially the latter) will produce a deposit of a
far richer tone. The presence of other metals in
solution, but copper and silver more particularly,
will alter the color of the deposit, and therefore it
is of the greatest importance to keep these metals
out of the ordinary gilding solution by careful
means. When gilding in various colors is needed,
recourse must be had to the solutions described
elsewhere, but on no account should the gilding
bath used for ordinary work be allowed to become
impregnated with even small quantities of any
other metal. When we state that small causes
will sometimes interfere with the natural beauty of
the pure gold deposit, the importance of preserv-
ing baths from the introduction of foreign matters
will be at once apparent. Another thing that
affects the color of the gilding is the accumulation
of organic matter; that is, vegetable or animal
matter, which is introduced into the bath by the
articles immersed in it; thus, greasy matter from
polished work, and beer from the scratch-brush,
will sometimes lodge in the interstices of hollow
work, and escape into the bath even after the arti-
cles have been rinsed; each in their turn convey
organic matter to the gold solution, by which it
acquires a darkened color; indeed, we have known
solutions acquire quite a brown color from these
causes. In our experience, however, the presence
of a small amount of such foreign matter, in mod-
eration, has often proved of advantage, especially
in the gilding of insides of vessels, when a rich and

KS EY & TON EB

1703

deep-toned gilding is required: a solution in this
condition we should prefer, for insides of cream
ewers, sugar-bowls and goblets, to a newly-pre-
pared gold solution; indeed, when a bath works a
little foxy, it is, to our mind, in the best condition
for these purposes, since the former is apt to yield
a deposit which is too yellow for such surfaces.
There is an extreme, however, which must be
avoided, that is when the bath yields a brown-
yellow deposit, which is very unsightly, though not
uncommonly to be seen in our shop windows.
When the gilding upon chains or articles of that
class is of a deep brownish-yellow color when re-
moved from the bath, it will, when scratch-brushed,
exhibit a fine gold appearance, specially suited to
this class of work, and more like jewelers’ ‘‘ wet
color work”’ than electro-gilding, which will render
it more acceptable to those who are judges of gold
color. Indeed, when the electro-gilding process
was first introduced, it was a general complaint
amongst shopkeepers that electro-gilding was too
yellow, and that electro-gilt work could easily be
distinguished from colored gold in consequence,
which was admitted to be a serious defect, since a
person wearing a gilt article would naturally wish
it to be assumed by others to be of gold. In gild-
ing such articles, therefore, the aim of the gilder-
would be to imitate as closely as possible the color
of gold jewelry, whether it be dry or wet colored
work. In the latter there is a peculiar depth and
softness of tone which is exceedingly pleasing ; in
dry colored work a rich dead surface is produced,
which it is not so difficult to imitate in electro-
gilding.

—_——.

‘‘ Whitening.”’—Can you tell us how to prepare
a white enamel for ornamental articles 2—Calcine
together and convert completely into oxide 2 parts
of tin and rz of lead. Mix 1 part of this oxide
mixture with 2 parts of pulverized white crystal
glass, and after adding a very small quantity of
saltpeter or pyrolusite as a decolorizing agent, fuse
in a small crucible and pour the fused mass into
cold water. Repeat the fusing twice or three times,
or until the mass is no longer blistered, but thor-
oughly homogeneous. It is then rubbed to a fine
powder and may be applied either by itself or, for
small surfaces, by mixing it with oil of lavender
and laying it on, like oil paint, with a brush. For
the preparation of white enamel with a lower fusing
point, the following composition may be used:
100 parts of the tin-lead oxide, 60 of pure quartz
meal and 25 of common salt. In place of pure
quartz meal, sand may be used, which must, how-
ever, be subjected to purification, in order to yield
a white product. For this purpose calcine 1oo parts
of sand with 25 of common salt. The iron con-
tained in the sand combines with the chlorine of the
common salt to a combination which evaporates on
heating, and a fritted mass sufficiently free from iron
remains behind. ‘The sand is then mixed with 25
parts of red lead and fused. In this manner a fritted
mass representing a lead-soda glass is obtained. To
prepare enamel with this mass, it is finely pulverized
and mixed with a zinc oxide, or with the mixture of
tin oxide and lead oxide, by using 1oo parts of oxide
to 50 of the frit. The larger the quantity of tin oxide
in the enameling mass, the thinner the coating may
be. Enameling masses containing no tin oxide may
also be prepared, sodium antimonate being gener-
ally used in this case. A composition giving a very
beautiful enamel consists of a mixture of 3 parts of
crystal glass, 1 of sodium antimonate, and a very
small quantity of saltpeter. In preparing all these
kinds of enamel care must be had in fusing to
prevent the action of the reducing bodies in the
crucible by closing the latter with a well-fitting lid.
If the gases penetrate into the crucible, enameling
masses of inferior quality are obtained.

““Marked.’’—TI find in an adjusted American
movement the balance jewels marked ; some have
one, some two small holesin, after they are taken
out there 1s no way of telling how they were in,
and if new ones were put in how would you pro-
ceed? It seems to me that this question was an-
swered in The Keystone once before, but I am
unable to findit. Would you be kind enough and
give such information where to find the reply, or
give such instruction as may be of some help as to
how to understand the meaning of such jewels 2—
See our reply to ‘‘Examiner,’’ page 1135, July,
1905, KEYSTONE.

{704 YT H E

Photographs on Watches, Cigar-
ette Cases, Etc.

HERE is evidently a growing taste
for photographic portraits on such

articles as watches, gold or silver
cigarette cases, match-boxes, etc., and the
jewelers who undertake to get this class of
work done usually charge a pretty good
figure for it.
As the carbon method of
The: Cathon producing pictures of this
Method kind may be of service to
many of our readers, we
shall here describe it in detail. We shall
assume, at once, that the reader is already
quite familiar with the practical working of
that process, for we here say that anyone
who takes up the working ot this process for
the first time, and attempts to apply it to the
present purpose, must not expect to meet
with any great success in his first few essays.
It goes without saying, that it is the double
transfer system that must be employed—the
picture being developed on a temporary sup-
port, and then transferred to the article
desired. It will at once be seen by practical
workers that the ordinary commercial flexible
support is not suitable for the work, for the
reason that it is too thick and unyielding to
be pressed into sufficiently close contact on a
convex surface, such as the dome of a watch
case, for example, to obtain a perfectly finished
transfer. It may, however, sometimes be
successfully used for quite cylindrical articles.
For the above reason, it will
The India be obvious that a more flex-
Rubber Support ible and yielding support
must be employed. One ts
the India rubber support as first used by
Swan ; another is a film of collodion. We
will deal with the former first. Some thin
‘‘foreign post’’ paper, the thinner the better,
so long as it will withstand the warm water
in the development, is coated with a solution
of India rubber about the consistency of thin
treacle. The best way of obtaining this is to
get a tin of solution from the rubber stores
and thin it down with a benzole to the required
consistency. It is poured into a dish and the
paper floated upon it, and then hung up for
the benzole to evaporate. The paper had
best be coated a few days before it is required
for use, so as to ensure that all the solvents of
the rubber have thoroughly evaporated.

This India rubber support is used in pre-
cisely the same way as the ordinary flexible
support, the exposed tissue is squeegeed
upon it, developed, and then allowed to dry.
The picture need not be alumed ; indeed, it
will be better for our present purpose if it is
not. The picture is now ready for transfer-
ring to whatever may be required, which, for
the moment, we will assume to be the dome

of a watch case. It is unnecessary to men-
tion that it must be removed from the watch ;
this a neighboring watchmaker will do for
one. The dome is then cleaned with benzole,
to remove all traces of grease or dirt. It 1s
then coated on the outer side with a solution
of gelatine containing a little chrome alum,
such as that used for double transfer paper.
The following is a good formula to employ :

Nelson’s No. r gelatine ..... .% oz.

WATER so ok ae atte eo arte ox Oa:

Chrome alum, dissolved in 1 oz. of
WidtOlomAl vice Rae WSMah GS <n, A le ewe

The dome is evenly coated
Maling the with this and allowed to dry.
Transfer To make the transfer neatly,

trim the print to the required
size, and put it and the watch dome in cold
water for ten minutes or so. Next, put the
latter in warm water, at about 105 degrees to
110 degrees Fahr., until it just feels slimy.
Then take the print, having previously marked
it as a guide to position, and put it into the
warm water and bring it into contact with the
dome, of course, avoiding air bubbles, and
remove the two, and press in close contact
with a soft dry handkerchief, gently rubbing
towards the edges with the finger so as to
remove all superfluous water. It is then
allowed to become thoroughly dry spontane-
ously. When dry, the back of the paper is
moistened with bonzole, and after resting for
a minute or two the paper can be slipped off,
leaving the picture firmly attached to the
metal. Should any rubber remain on the
picture it may be rolled off with the finger,
or removed with benzole. It now only re-
mains to varnish the work. The proper
varnish for the purpose can be obtained
from any photographic supply house, and is
practically a cold lacquer, and when dry
is as hard and durable as the lacquer on
our lenses. It is simply flowed over and
drained off, and it dries in a few hours.

We mentioned just now that
Collodion asa Collodion might be used as a
Support temporary support, and per-

haps, on the whole, it is the
best to employ. Here is the method: A
glass plate, after being waxed, or prepared
with French chalk, is coated with ordinary
enamel collodion, thickened with two or three
grains per ounce of pyroxiline, so that it
yields a thick film. After the collodion has
thoroughly set, the plate is put into a dish
of water to soak, and is afterwards washed
under the tap to get rid of the solvents of
the collodion. The exposed tissue is then
squeegeed on that, developed in the ordinary
manner, and allowed to dry. When dry the
film can be stripped off and trimmed, and
then mounted on the metal as just described.
It is a good plan to trim the picture while i

t
is still on the glass—a wheel trimmer and

KX E& Y S-T ON

E October, 1905

zinc shape is convenient for the purpose.
The collodion film has an advantage over the
rubber support, inasmuch as it is transparent,
so that air bubbles can be seen, and the
picture the better arranged in position. After
the transfer, the collodion can be dissolved
off with a mixture of ether and alcohol.

In conclusion, it may be mentioned that
for carbon pictures on metal a tissue should
be selected that contains a large proportion
of pigment to gelatine, and should also be
printed from a tolerably thin negative, so as
avoid a high relief in the image, which 1s
objectionable in this class of picture, and,
moreover, it serves to indicate the method
by which it has been produced, which, in

some instances, it is not desirable to do.
—Rritish Journal of Photography.

Taking Promissory Note in Payment
of Account

A Pittsburg correspondent asks the result in
taking a long running note in payment of an

sé

account, and if ‘‘we would have protection prior
to the maturity of the note in case we would
acknowledge receipt of note stating that same would
be credited to the account when paid, and regard-
less of the wording of the receipt would make an
entry crediting our customer’s account and charg-
ing the amount to bills receivable, or would it be
necessary to withold credit from our customer’s
account until the note was paid.”’

It is the law in practically all jurisdictions, in-
cluding Pennsylvania, that a promissory note,
though negotiable, given by a debtor to his credi-
tor, does not operate as payment of a pre-existing
indebtedness, in the absence of an agreement
between the parties that it shall so operate, and an
action may still be maintained on the original
indebtedness. This is also true of a contempor-
aneous indebtedness.

It is also the Jaw that an agreement that the
acceptance of a note shall operate as a payment of
the debt is binding and that in either case the
acceptance of a note suspends all right of action
against the debtor until the maturity of the note.
After maturity it is the duty of the creditor to first
surrender the note, when he may resort to any
action available at that time to collect the original
indebtedness. When the note is expressly accepted
as payment subject to the subsequent performance
of specified conditions upon the non-performance
of such conditions, it will not operate as payment,
as when the note so taken is expressly to operate
aS payment when paid, as suggested in the above
inquiry.

We do not see how the creditor could have any
protection prior to the maturity of the note unless
expressly agreed with the debtor that suit may be
brought at any time. It would be unwise to credit
the account and charge the amount to bills receiv-
able, for this would be some evidence, although
not conclusive, that the note has been taken in
payment of the account.

Business Men's Magazine.

‘Tne Kevstone seems to be all the jeweler
could desire. We need tt in our business, could
not do without it; we tried, but it wouldn't work.
It gives not only veal facts and assistance to the
storekeeper, Aut /ols of food for thourht.’’—T.- iS:
Byers Jewelry Co., St. Louis, Alissourt.

TARR

PIM PLE IRR A LI

PAAR RA OF

ESS

LISTEN!

Quality and workmanship

considered the Lt.5.6Go.
goods give the best value
for the money asked, and so

are money makers for the
retailer.

ASK YOUR JOBBER AND HE WILL BACK UP OUR
STATEMENT.

OUIS OTERN & Go.

Chainmakers ¢ Silversmiths

PROVIDENCE -R:-I-

[707

KING & EISELE

Wholesale Manufacturing Jewelers
Importers of Diamonds
Jobbers in American Watches

10=20 North Division Street

342=344 Washington Street ESTABLISHED 1870 BUFFALO, N. Y.

King & Eisele occupy this entire building

OUR FALL LINE IS THE BEST THAT EVER HAPPENED

| Solid Gold Jewelry Gold Filled Jewelry
Solid Gold Watch Cases Boss and Crescent Gold Filled Cases
Elgin and Waltham Movements New England Complete Watches

DIAMONDS

K-E, RINGS—We manufacture the K-E Ring Line and sell direct to the RETAIL JEWELER.
Do not complete your fall purchases without first seeing our line. Our salesmen will call
on you soon. Selection package sent to responsible jewelers.

Has the Kainy Queen
paid You a Visit ?

(Drocfamation

Her Highness having appointed
us goldsmiths for the United States
she has issued a royal command
to every jeweler, upon penalty of
losing trade, to write at once for
a selection package from our fall
line of one thousand different
styles of 10 karat solid gold stone-
set rings.

The Queen brooks no delay !

Qireen erty Ring. ‘

7 we wh i. ¢\ ~
SS 4 < P| A : : | } tnhd
"> 7 & A a v

“ Rineg-
Leaders”

We are unquestionably
the “Ring-Leaders” of the
Country, and our product
reigns supreme. October
is the Ring month of the
year; a month of thirty-
one days for the Jobber to
reap his profits. Present
prospects point to one of
the most successful sea-
sons in years. All orders
are receiving prompt
attention; the “side-track-
ing” process is not in order
here. You, as a buyer of
“selling” goods will appre-
ciate what that means.

Ostby &
Barton Company

Providence, Rhode Island

g Maiden Lane 103 State Street
New York Chicago

1709

—
a |

BO AA

Or tad ec ane

5S aa WN hie he ka Tae pes
a ea aa

REMEMBER

INO order too large for Our capacity
None too small for our careful consideration

———s

‘THE stamp HB in each Heintz

Ring is an imprint of Ring
perfection. Ihe Retail. Jeweler
knows that, in the holiday season
just abead, the Heintz productions
will lead the way to a successful and
profitable Ring business. Remember:
“Weeds develop into flowers only by
transplanting.” Weed out your old
stock and cultivate a growth in your
sales by selling the HB Ring.

PEINGZ -SROLHERS, Buffalo, Nv Y,

SHORTHAND
FOR ;
RING SUPERIORITY

A Kaufman Special

If you are a stranger to the Kaufman line
of rings, we are Aarticularly desirous of
sending you the above six rings “on Ssus-
picion. We will send them af our expense,
and if you decide they aren’t the best values
you ve seen this season—send them back af
Our eCXpeNnse.

Our traveling men may not get to your
vicinity but we want to sell you just the
Same, giter seeing these Six rings, if you
like the sort, we'll gladly send you a selec-
tion package of any proportion you wish.
Let us get started with you—that’s all.

Newspaper Cuts
We don't stop at selling you our rings—we'll
help you to sell them by furnishing newspaper cuts
free of charge. A single column cut like the above

design (without the lettering) goes with each sale of
the six rings,

LOUIS KAUFMAN & CO.
Makers of Gold Rings
82 anp 84 FULTON ST., NEW YORK

October, 1905 T H EC

New Sun-JDial

HE art of dialing was one of the earliest applications of

the knowledge of the apparent motions of the sun, and is

of great antiquity. But, since the advent of the transit
telescope and the invention of clocks and watches, it has fallen
into disuse, owing to the fact that it only gives very approximate
time indications, and that the kind of time (solar) which it gives
is unsuitable for ordinary commercial purposes.

The first defect is due to the very short length of
the shadows cast by the gnomon; the second is a

Defects
of Old Dials

result of the varying speed of the earth in its orbit
round the sun, and of the inclination of the ecliptic
to the equator, causing the time intervals to vary. In its primitive
form, therefore, it is of small use for present-day requirements, and
it only justifies its existence by
its claims as a historical and an
educational instrument and, in a
smaller degree, as an ornamental
garden accessory. ‘Time is now
obtained from the sun or stars by
means of the transit instrument,
consisting of a telescope attached
to a horizontal axis, and capable
of movement in the plane of the
meridian only, and furnished with
means for accurate adjustment.
An instrument of this kind must,
however, always remain a high-
class. scientific instrument, the
care of which is beyond the ordi-
nary amateur, requiring for its
proper adiustment special expert
knowledge.
The new transit
Superiority dial here de-
of the New Dial scribed, — whilst

making no pre-
tensions to the scientific accuracy
of the transit telescope, is far superior to the old primitive sun-dial,
and will furnish time to within the limit of a second. It consists of
the usual form of sun-dial on an ornamental stand with engraved
dial and gnomon. This latter is composed of two metal plates
separated by an interval. Between these plates is placed a special
form of narrow cylindrical lens, covering an arc of seventy-five
degrees, so arranged that it gives an image of the sun ora star at
all ordinary altitudes without being moved. As is well known, a
cylindrical lens has no effect on rays of light in one meridian—that
parallel with its axis—and that the image of any source of illumina-
tion formed at its focus is a line of light. This is arranged, in this
case, to be in a vertical direction and, whatever the altitude of the
sun or stars, a line image is always present in the field of vision.
This image is viewed in the ordinary way by a positive eyepiece
furnished with cross wires, the rays, for convenience of observa-
tion, being turned at right angles by the intervention of a totally
reflecting prism.
The instrument is, therefore, a combination of the
original sun-dial with a special form of telescope,
the object-glass of which is formed by the narrow
segmental cylindrical lens, which projects into the
field of vision an image at all altitudes of the sun or a Star, without
any movement or adjustment. The metal work is permanently

fixed to the dial and not liable to derangement or damage, the lens

Combined Dial
and Telescope

KB YY S&S fF oO N & 1713

being perfectly protected by the plates of the gnomon. It is easy
to use, and tables are furnished rendering unnecessary the usual
calculations. The method of making the corrections is here given,
using two examples—the sun and a star.

If the sun is used, the time must necessarily be at or
inne near noon, at the time of the sun’s southing or
of Observation

passing the meridian. Greenwich being taken as

the standard meridian, all other places at other
longitudes are referred to this, and allowance made for their distance
east or west. We must also know the difference between mean and
apparent time for the day; er, in other words, the ‘‘ equation of
time,’’ which is given in the almanacs. We will presume that our
place of observation is, by the ordnance map, 2 deg. 15 min. west
of Greenwich. As 360 degrees of arc are equal to 24 hours of
time, the proportion is 360 to 24, or 15 to 1. If, therefore, we
divide 2 deg. 15 min. by 15, we obtain 9 minutes as the distance in
time from the meridian of Green-
wich and, being west, the sun will
transit this amount of time later
than at Greenwich. Taking the
transit on July 30, 1905, we find
that on this date the equation of
time is 6 min. I4 sec. + ; or, in
other words, the real sun does not
arrive at the meridian until 6 min.
I4 sec. past 12, and as our station
is g min. later also, the time shown
by a mean-time clock when the
sun souths on this date must be
12 hrs. 15 min. 14 sec.

H. MM. S.
Mean time atapparent noon, 12 6 14
Correction for longitude, a 9 {0
I215 14

If the place of observation is
east of Greenwich, then the cor-
rection is minus and must be de-
ducted also. If the time had been,
say, February 12, 1905, 14 min.
26 sec. would have to be added for equation of time. If time ts
taken by a star, we must have a table of conversion from sidereal

to mean-time intervals, as the right ascension

Time by Star of stars is given in sidereal time. Sidereal time
at noon is the distance from the first point of
Aries, from which all distances of stars are measured in right
ascension. This, on June rst, was 4 hrs. 37 min. 12 sec.
Taking the well-known star Spica, we find, from the almanac,
that its right ascension is 13 hrs. 20 min., so that it will come to
the meridian at this time minus 4 hrs. 37 min. 12 sec. = 8 hrs.
42 min. 48 sec., and this, corrected into mean-time intervals, given

)

on page 574 of the ‘‘ Nautical Almanac,’’ is found to be 8 hrs.
41 min. 23 sec., the time a mean-time clock should show when
Spica passes the center wire of transit dial. The same method is
applicable to any other star, and the almanac gives particulars of
some visible all the year round.

In the Znglish Mechanic, for every month, a list of twenty-
four stars is given, with their #cax times of southing on the first
day of every month. The times for any other day is obtained by
multiplying 3 min. 56 sec. by the day of the month, minus one,
and adding this to the time given for June 1st. This list of

stars is fairly comprehensive and will be found to answer for

all ordinary purposes.
—W. Banks, F.R.A.S., in the London Watchmaker, Jeweler and Silversmith.

Mo
/

- Oe
. - *
.* ~

TRADE-MARK REGISTERED

EVERY ROY WATCH CASE 1s
made from ASSAYED GOLD, and
QUALITY IS GUARANTEED AS STAMPED.

Our new Fall line in attractive designs and unequaled

finish are on sale by leading jobbers who care to supply

their trade with the newest and best solid gold case made.

Roy WATCH CASE COMPANY

206 Kearny Street
San Francisco, Cal.

IMPROVED STAKING TOOL
WITH NEW FRICTION SLEEVE

perfection yet attained

the

SSA ill||| SLEEVE

vent
| FL)

1 Wl ay
LY

die.

device for tightening

No. 12. 100 Punches, 24 Stumps
No. 13. 76 Punches, 20 Stumps

No. 14. 60 Punches, 18 Stumps bearing cam

These improvements completely obviate vibration or displacement
and thoroughly safeguard watch parts while in the die.

Kendrick & Davis, Lebanon, N. H.

The highest degree of

staking tool improvement is
found in the new K. & D.
tool shown in the accom-
panying illustration. The
most notable new feature is

for holding the punches up
while placing and removing
parts of watches from the

This tool has also a new

die in position, consisting of
an adjustable bolt and double-

21-23 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

THE LATEST AND BEST

The “Automatic” Safety Catch

Neatest, strongest, best and most practical safety
catch that has ever been presented for consideration
of the trade. It is automatic in action and a positive
lock for the pin. The pin-stem engages readily and
positively cannot come out until you release it. The

Open Closed
a release is as simple and can be accomplished more
readily than from an ordinary open catch. A touch of the finger on point 4
and the pin is automatically freed from the catch. Made in Gold, Sterling
Silver and German Silver.
Samples sent on application from Manufacturers or Wholesale Dealers in
Jobbing Material,

GEO. H. FULLER & SON CO., Pawtucket, R. I.

Chicago Office—103 State Street

“CLINCH”

Hoffman’s Safety Catch for
Scarf Pins

Newest and Most Practical Scarf
Pin Fastener on the Market

Fits any size pin. Has a grip like
a vise. No broken finger nails.
Nothing to get out of order. Neat
and simple, It will not mar the pin.

PRICES Retail price.
Stvle No. 1. $1.50 doz. 25 cts.
Stvle No. 2.

Roman gold, 2.00 dos. 35 ets.
Stvle No, 2.

14 K. Gold Plate.

polished, $3.00 doz. 50 ets.

For sale by all leading jobbers
and material houses, or

THE HOFFMAN
NOVELTY CO.

ALBANY, N, +. How the Cline h is onerated.

Patent applied for.
No 1. 25 cts. No, 2

— =

Sie %

i\VIi
rity

Stock Purchasing in the Big Markets

N an article in our last issue we enumer-

ated the advantages to the jeweler of

occasional personal visits to the big markets
for the triple purpose of stock purchasing,
physical and mental relaxation and business
edification and enlightenment. Wehave now
before us a letter from a subscriber, com-
mending our views on the subject, but warning
his brother jewelers against the temptation to
over-buying, which, he claims, is particularly
strong in the wholesale centers. The immense
volumes of stock and multiplicity of styles
and patterns have, he contends, a bewildering
and fascinating influence, while the suavity
and persuasiveness of the salespeople and
the overwhelming triendliness of the various
firms are calculated to produce a hypnosis
which is fatal to cold-blooded bargaining and
conservative selection. ‘‘Itis an old saying,”’
writes our subscriber, ‘‘that a rooster has most
nerve and fights best in his own barn-yard. I
have known men who were proof against all
the blandishments of the most gifted and persis-
tent traveling man, but who succumbed readily

among the biy stocks and in the soothin:

atmosphere of State Street or Maiden Lane.’’

HERE may be some basis for this

contention, but our subscriber’s pretext
is certainly over-drawn. If the jeweler is, as
he ought to be, thoroughly posted on his
requirements before visiting the market, and
if he possesses, as he should, the qualifica-
tions of a shrewd purchaser, there 1s not
only no danger for him in the immense stocks
or in the firm’s effusiveness, but on the con-
trary all these things can be turned to his
advantage. The fundamental fact remains
that here he has before him all the latest pro-
ducts of the jewelry world, the varying prices
at which they may be offered by a hundred
competing firms, the bargains and _ special
offerings of rival houses, all of whom would,
no doubt, make some little concession for his
business. This is where the merchant with
cash in hand makes his first profit, and even if
he should need credit or exceptionally lenient
terms of payment, he will, in this way, get
closer to the heads of the establishment and
quite likely secure more satisfactory arrange-
ments than through the long-distance medium
of the traveling man or the mails. But why
reiterate ? The actual experience of the trade

ral 1

is the best guide, and this has proved con-
clusively the wisdom of keeping in fersonal
touch with the jobbing centers.

Lee is one point on which we can
agree with our correspondent, namely,
that whether the jeweler buys from the trav-
eling man across the counter or at headquarters
in one of the big cities it is always well for
him to have the reputation of being a shrewd,
hard-headed purchaser. The merchant who
goes into the market with the reputation of
being ‘‘a nice fellow to sell to,’’ 1s not likely
to get the consideration of the one who is
known as a captious critic of goods and
values. Confidence in that the jobber will
treat you right under any circumstances may
be justifiable, but we doubt whether such
faith can be classed among the business
virtues. Even the jobber, who is honored
with your confidence, may regard as a much
safer patron the shrewd, close-figuring mer-
chant, for sucha one is much more likely to
be successful in his business. Traveling men
sometimes claim that the ‘‘ nice fellows to sell
to’’ get all the ‘‘ snaps’’ and ‘‘ inside prices ”’
because the salesman and his house ‘“ will
take care of them.’’ We grant this may be
true in some cases, but it is just like human
nature to use these snaps and inside prices to
coax some jeweler to buy who has the other
kind of a reputation.
T must be remembered that the jobber is
as much interested in making a profitable
sale as the retailer is in making a profitable
purchase, and that no matter how honest he
may be or however much he may feel like
treating you well, he will necessarily be
swayed to some extent in his own favor by
self-interest. The jobber is not in business
for his health any more than the retailer, and
he must not be expected to make sacrifices
for your profit. It is always more satisfac-
tory for him to do business with a man who
knows how and what to buy than to have
thrown on him responsibility for the retailer’s
selections.

In buying as in selling the jeweler must be
on the eternal lookout for his own interests,
quick to take advantage of opportunities and
quicker to detect when advantage is being
taken of him. Confidence in those with
whom we deal is an admirable thing, but

(1715)

there’s safety in flavoring one’s faith witha
pinch of suspicion. It is no longer the cus-
tom for the jeweler to limit his patronage to
any one house. He rightly claims the free-
dom of the market as his privilege, and the
exercise of this privilege puts a business
premium on tact and shrewdness. The
advice which the poet Burns gave to his
young friend, is not without applicability to
modern business conditions :
Aye, free, off-han’ your story tell
When wi’ a bosom crony,
But still keep something to yoursel’
Ye scarcely tell to ony.
Conceal yoursel’ as well’s ye can
Frae critical dissection,
But keek through ev’ry ither man
Wi’ sharpen’d, sly inspection.
Benjamin Franklin, wise old seer, said
that in business, unlike religion, we were
saved not by faith but by the want of it.
Our correspondent is right in advising that
the merchant should bring with him to the
jewelry market all his powers of resistance
and self-assertion. The meek and confiding
may possess the earth, in accordance with
the Biblical promise, but they are not the
ideals for shrewd stock purchasers.

How to Read Your Trade Paper

N a forceful article on the necessity of
the merchant reading his trade paper,
Printers Ink says:

Kew men are so busy that they have no
time to read trade papers. The evenings at
home cannot be spent to better advantage
by him who wishes to achieve the greatest
possible success, than in reading one or more
in an understanding way. Right here comes
the rub—in an understanding way. And it
is because a great many men do not know
how to read a trade paper that they do not
read them at all. The right way to read a
trade paper or any other kind of paper, for
that matter, is to place one’s self in a state of
mind which may be termed both perceptive
and receptive. By doing so, one will per-
ceive that which is of value and store it away
where it may readily be found when wanted,
instead of reading the articles as if they were
just so much reading matter which must be
read somehow or other. Then, that which may
be read between the lines, is often of greater
value than that which is printed,and the reader
should be alert to see and feel such things.

Lz POR ape

[716

HOLD YOUR TRADE

by handling Bassett Chains—quick sellers
big profit makers and sakishiction
guaranteed. Select styles for
4 fastidious purchasers —
TIE TO . Ao 7 popular styles for all

BASSETT CHAINS

and Avoid Dead Stock
and dissatisfaction

THE BASSETT JEWELRY CO.

Factory
Manufacturers’ Building, PROVIDENCE, R. I.

NEw YORK OFFICE CHICAGO OFFICE MINNEAPOLIS OFFICE

SAN I'RANCISCO OFFICE
37 Maiden Lane Masonic Temple Vaults 617 Lumber Exchange

120 Sutter Street

A PAE! oe! a aa Le IF TPT TLE ee

a}
i IP ig <a = . _ Ti

The Phenomenal Sale of this
Case Proves its Usefulness

Jewelers with a keen eye in every case relating to their busines:

S, Saw al once
a ai6 - e »
the beauty, utility and cheapness of our * IDEAL’ CASE.
It is made of solid oak, or other wood desired, highly polished, beveled plate-
olass top, double strength glass front, ends and doors, has two highly ere
shelves of same wood as case, supported by Tom’s adjustable bra kets, metal leg

six inches high, and doors rtm on steel tracks.

DIMENSIONS :—Length as ordere -d, 28 inches wide, 43 inches high, upper shelf Fae lee ee
12 inches wide, lower shelf 16 inches.

The construction of this case is first-class. It has a nicely molded top, orna- Wall Cases. Solid Oak. 8 feet long, 8 feet 4 in hes high, 1 foot 4 inches devp
mented with ege and dart. ‘ inside. Doors slide up, fastened to Morton’s steel chains and weights. Inside of case aud

shelves lined with black felt. Made to ship in the knock down.
A BEAUTIFUL CASE Net price, $58.00.

Worth $70.00

nion Show Case (0. 105 E. Lake Street, CHICAGO, ILL.

FACTORY—56-66 Frank St. and 424-428 Maxwell St.

Made and sold by

Ws ie

October, 1905

Sample Advertisements of Progressive Jewelers

We are now nearing the period when every jeweler who
wishes to make the most of this promising season should inaugu-
rate a vigorous advertising campaign. The time to advertise is, of
course, all the time, but it always pays well to increase the usual
space and appropriation as the holiday season draws near. It must
be remembered that in our day advertising is no longer optional

with the merchant; it is compulsory, Exacting competition

ee
wh ig,
> SS = BRING

NWIV)7 = YOUR
S WY DIAMONDS

to us often and |
have them ex-=
amined to see
that the moun-
tings are in
good order.
An examina-
tion costs you
nothing and it i
may save you
the jewel.

P. H. STEVENS
12 Asylum St.
Hartford

an inaccurate timepiece,
That’s his business.

Ear Rings.

If he prefers to have it re-
paired and made accurate,
That’s my business.

And I know my business thoroughly.
An inaccurate timepiece may cause
one a world of inconvenience. It may
cause the loss of many dollars or even a
loss of life.
That’s why many great corporations |
require their employees to carry per-
fect Watches.
[ am an authorized inspector of
Watches for such a corporation—the
great Rock Island System.
Does that not show confidence in my
ability as a watchmaker? |
|
|
|
|
|

Stuart’s Reliable
A. BS Jones, Jeweler

EXTRAORDINARY
WATCH VALUES,

DO YOU WANT A WATCH? Most
every One does. Everybody needs one.

Some people, however, don’t feel like
paying alarge sum of money for one. They
try to get along by depending on the public
clocks and their friends for the time.

Inconvenient, of course.

I have a number of watches taken in ex-
change that I shall sell at bottom prices.
All the leading makes.

I have put them in first-class condition
and they keep as good time as new ones.

There’s no further excuse for your going
without a watch.

J Ss AVE.
EWeLen ate. N.C IPUGKER woos

DIAMONDS For
THE BRIDE

A piece of fine diamond jewelry
will please her best.
propriate as a token of love, admira-
tion and friendship, but it will be

§ «prized the most of all for the beauti-
f ful sentiment it expresses.

eee ae | The Finest Stock in Rochester at
| | Rochester’s Finest Jewelry Store

t Rings of fancy clusters of Diamonds,
m Rubies, Sapphires,

It a ath chooses to Carry ; Turquoise, Ismeralds, cte.

Hearts of Pearls, Diamond centers 32 to 75

Opals, Vearls,

Diamond Necklaces . oy
Lavallieres, all thepreciousgems Sto 65
Bracelets, set with Diamonds . 50to 100
Chatelaine Watches, set with Pearls |

DIAMOND SOLITAIRE ENGAGEMENT
RINGS, $25 TO $1000

TIFFANY WEDDING RINGS, IN ALL
WEIGHTS, $3.50 TO $10

WEDDING FAVORS—Brooch Pins, Sig-
net Rings, Hat Pins, Mounted Combs, Searf
Pins, Cuff Buttons, Watch Fobs, Rings set
with gems, ete.

E. J. SCHEER & CO.

144 Main Street East

KEY Ss Fo n EB 1717

necessitates recourse to all the trade-bringing agencies, and news-

paper advertising is the chief of these. The advertisements here

shown are purposely contracted in space in order to show as many

samples as possible. They are the newspaper announcements of

enterprising jewelers, some of them being slightly changed in form,
and will suggest ideas to many who are less proficient in the art.

It should be needless to repeat at this time that the capability
to write an advertisement is one of the most valuable of the

(Continued on page 1719)

2? RIDES

and their friends should not forget
to look over our reasonable priced,
but guaranteed quality, new goods
for wedding gifts and favors. If
you are

ILNGAGIEID

don’t fail to have a ring to commemorate
that fact, and get it of us, because then
you will get more
for your money. We
make a specialty of
WIDDING and EN-
GAGEMENT RINGS,
and have our way of

ATI
engraving them KREE—1000 rings to pick
from. Solid gold, from $1.00 up to the fine
diamond, which run from $4.98 to $175.00.

FINE SILVER TEA SETS, special, $2.98
Cake Baskets—tine, large size, well
pisted.. = + .nk 3 2s @98Ci-to; 4200
Syrup, special, quad-
ruple plate .... 1.48
These are only a few things
of the choice, new stock

It is most ap-

JEWELERS, OPTICIANS
11 Genesee Street

Fine Cut Glass

. $25 to $600
$ 0 $6 Cruet, $3.48

25to 500 f
18 to 500

and Diamonds, beautiful modeled

cases of flower design and old rose

coloring, dragon chatelaine . 50to 75
Brooches of Diamondsand Pearls 15 to 750

S ter lin g Silver
Belt Buckles

Here is a collection of Sterling Silver Belt
Buckles in a variety of most attractive designs—
both floral and figure subjects—that we’re able to
offer to-day at half prices, or less. Some are in
French gray finish, others in rose gold; and many
are attractively set with stones,

Altogether, a pleasant chance to pick out pretty
adjuncts to the winter frock, at a material price-
saving—$1.00 and $1.50, worth $2.50 to $6.00.

Evans, 105 Market St.

FALL WEDDING GIFTS

QUADRUPLE PLATE STERLING SILVER
SILVERWARE few weeks away, but HOLLOW WARE
The patterns were neyer so it is a good idea to A selection from this ele-
rich and handsome as they look around early. gant class of goods means
are this season. We have the choice that you are buying some-
new things of the thing that will become an
jewelry market in beak 89 OF to $30.00
hat g¢ s assort- single pleces, $2.20 10 730,
ee Penn Te See Fea Sets . $110.00 to $168.00
, : Coffee Sets . $53.00 to $65.00
CUT GLASS only in a wholesale
Always in good taste as a stock, WEDDING RINGS

wedding present, Articles Solid Gold
from $1.50 to $35.50, $9 50 to $11.00
pe. ~P .

JEWELERS AND OPTICIANS

9
Hofman S, 78 North High Street

The event may be a

Single pieces, $1.10 to $15.00
. $8.00 to $40.00

Tea Sets .
Coffee Sets . $10.50 to $24.50

These levers keep
track of credit custom-
ers. Also keep lot and
size, stock numbers o1
cost and selling prices.

Here under lock is
record showing total
= number of customers

Here under lock for waited on each day

proprietor is printed
record of every trans-
action, including cost
and selling prices, lot
and size numbers, etc. Here under lock is a
record showing total
number of charge Sales,
total number of cus-
tomers who paid on
account, and the num-
ber of times money was
paid out during the day

Improved way of
handling the credit
sales, money received
on account and money
paid out. Makes it
impossible to forget to
charge

ene

ECIDE today that you will let automatic machinery take
care of your greatest troubles. You cannot afford to
waste time and energy doing things that a machine will do.

National Cash Register Company Dayton Ohio

HENRY ALLSOPP Ax* GEO. A. ALLSOPP

TRADE-MARK

ALLSOPP BROS.

Manufacturers of

Ladies’, Men’s, Misses’, Children’s RINGS

As well as a

TMM
eS

Full Line of Signet, Lion and Grotesque Rings

SELECTION PACKAGES TO RESPONSIBLE DEALERS

Allsopp Building, Camp & Orchard Sts. INE WARK, N. J-

GIVES We do RELIABLE

, 5 a More Light
| than acetylene > y
6 TIMES More Light th Silver Plating

an electricity a
10 TIMES More Light than kerosene s i
100 TIMES More Light than a candle Silverware

COSTS LESS THAN KEROSENE

e e@
Each lamp makes and burns its own gas. Hang or set it any- Re alrinfi
where. A pure white, steady light.
NO ODOR! NO WICK! NOGREASE! NO SMOKE!
LITTLE HEAT! SAFE!

Over 100 Styles for Indoor and Outdoor Use We Repair any article in the Silverware line, making new parts to match the old ones,

Yes!

broken or melted off, the same as new.
We Re late any article you want in Gold, Silver, Nickel, Bronze, Brass, Oxidized Silver,
D Old Bronze, Statuary Bronze, and all the Antique or Old Finishes, etc.

AGENTS WANTED—Exclusive Territory

Write for catalog, lists and discounts S bp (
Silverware 1429 Wabash Ave,
THE BEST LIGHT CO., 259 E. Fifth St., Canton, Ohio Repaired and Crcom OMpPany

Replated F. H. PUTNAM, Manager CHICAGO

Sample Advertisements of Progressive Jewelers

(Continued from page 1717)

qualifications of the modern jeweler. He should also be posted on
type and display and have some sort of an idea of the general
principles of the printer’s art. If he is so
be beyond instruction in this important branch, he should at least
insist on such qualifications in one or more of his clerks.

The advertising jeweler should always insist on a proof of his

The Ways
of a
Watch

The ways of a watch
are past finding out.
Don’t try. If your
watch is lazy and
won’t run, let our
repairer spur it up
—he’ll make it on time to a dot.

Ten to one you’ve neglected it—let it get
dirty; or rusty from. lack of oil; maybe
given it to the baby to play with. We get
plenty of watches bearing the telltale marks
of little teeth

Whatever’s the reason, don’t delay; de-
lay costs money and spoils the watch.

We give thorough examination
and regulating free—anything
more costs as little as satisfac-
tory work can be done for.

P. G. DIENER, 410 Market st.

¢¢

™ Value of
=
4 \\
j ingraving When I sell you any

article of Jewelry or
Silverware I engrave
the article, free of ex-
pense, to your special
order,
It may be a single
letter or an elaborate
monogram, according
to the article and the
suitableness for en-
graving.
All my engraving is
done by hand in a
perfect manner, so as
to be a lasting plea-
sure.
iingraving makes an
article more valuable,
a giftmore personal.

You ecanwt overlook
Leslte EF. Carl the value of engray-

ing if you have good
The Jeweler taste. J
87 Front Street

Telephone 14 Deposit

1 Thin Model

set in his ways’’ as to

October, 1905 LT Fl E KB YS TON E& 1719 |

publication. Poor language, bad grammer and misspelled words
always leave an unfavorable impression on the reader, and these

A DIAMOND RING |

Absolutely
Perfect.

Absolutely \
xo N 114 carat.

Perfect.
144 carat.

125

advertisement being sent to him for correction and approval before

should be carefully guarded against. The jeweler who scratches
off an advertisement in a few moments and leaves the rest to the
printer, is not doing justice to.his reputation or his husiness. He
is of the class who tell you that advertising does not pay, while his
competitors are making money by careful use of this very agency.
But such a merchant is little less than an amusing anachronism.

SPECIAL WHILE THEY LAST. We recently
‘imported a lot that enable us to offer
some wonderful bargains

Jos. Linz & Bros.

Write for Catalogue

Every one who buys a Diamond

of us feels that he or she has secured
a good bargain. We intend that every
one shall feel that way. Every gem

we sell must be right in quality, color,
cut and price. We have some nice
ones to show you.

I. A. Faunce, 1314 N. Third Street

clumsy watches.
This, small, thin
model case is more

mh) Good 7 cmekecfaer

ranted 10 years; fine
American Waltham
movement.

This week only

convenientandeasy | | -
to carry.

Very handsome = jf > & 5
gold filled case, war- 4

Geneva Watch
and Optical Co.

305 S, Broadway gold filled case, ;
We do all kinds of Watch Repairing. Whitman |

details :

BEAUTIFUL
RING
SETTINGS

We have a line of gold
rings of manifold designs.
Beautiful plain gold,light
weight, round wire rings;
ornamented and plain
gold bands, ete., set with

rich white diamonds and 0 tee ede
—but you must see them

to appreciate their tone, rx oN

WEDDING © 7/j\
\ }

RINGS i

Let us furnish the tie that

binds true lovers. What-

ever style or weight you

desire is here. We guar-
antee our wedding rings.

LESLIE E. CARL
82 FRONT STREET

A FINE LINE OF i

EMBLEM JEWELRY

Emblem Signet Rings with raised
gold letters or emblems in their
respective colors. Genuine ELK
TEETH and EAGLE CLAWS in
all my charms.

Masonic Oad Felows | RINGS
Buttons. waa cos. i

Each emblem is designed intelli-

gently and sure to please the most

critical patron. For beauty, qual- Katt
ity and finish my line excels. Get I
my prices, for they are right.

LESLIE E. CARL, Reliable Jeweler

82 Front Street, Deposit

0 Ct. C. Tucker ;
We’re having quite a sale on this watch— Jeweler

, '

we quote the spe- it has proved eminently satisfactory to a great I |
cial price of $10.50 number of people who want a moderate-priced and it |
timekeeper. It has all the appearance of a Hirt

high-grade chronometer, and we will guaran- Opelicta W ) El

tee the works to be all right. Here are the

Seven-jewel American movement, South Chuenue ip

. . $8. 50 i |

LAER RNS IE

I
r "i
y a
3
.
Ze
=
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:.
4

Our new catalog 1s now ready, and we will be pleased

fo mail tt to all regular dealers

Our line of Hall Clocks is the largest and

most complete we ever manufactured, and comprises all
the latest features of high-class construction.

We have some new designs of Watchmakers’ Regu-
lators, which excel anything we have heretofore produced.
Our new WILLARD or “BANJO” Clock is an
elegant specimen of our high-class work and is built for

the fine trade.

Waltham Clock Company

Waltham, Mass., U.S.A.

The “ Hiawatha” Hat Pin Set

FROM Ti
WE DEPARTED |<

LEAD, WA bli
LAUGH DG WATER FS

ALD 1 LAND SEIEW
WENT TOGETRIZE
THROVEH THe
WOODLAND ANO
THE MEADOW

if Fr | ”
Ries Pp
SS eh
“WOOING»

Patented

June 28, 1905

Actual size

The Hat Pins represent two principal characters from Longfellow’s poem,
Minuebaha and Hiawatha. These heads are made of Sterling Silver, stems of German
Silver, $8’ long. ‘The tops are mitered, making a complete head,

The Hat Pin Holder, made of Silverine Metal, finished in French Gray, loaded
base and covered with felt.

Lach set, consisting of the two Hat Pins and Holder, put up in a paper box,

We show a large line of new goods in Sterling Silver Toilet Sets, Manicure
Pieces, Salt Shakers in Cut Glass, Individual Salt Shakers in all
Sterling, Hat Pins, Brooches, Belt Pins, Scarf Pins,

Link Buttons, Fobs and Link Purses

This Hiawatha set for sale by all leading jobbers. If the jobbers have not got
them, write to us.

ROTHSCHILD BROTHERS COMPANY
Manufacturing Jewelers Attlehgro, Mass., U.S.A.

Address all communications to the factory

New York Office, 37 Maiden Lane New England Selling Agents
Rr Sneed’ ite mawentc Tne Thomas Long Co.
Ve snow a contp ete Say e 1inhe 4l Summer Sta Boston, Mass.
in our New York office

October, 1905 di

Ge a Ba eS ee ee Sn, oe ee ae aren

easures Minute Time

An Ingenious Apparatus Which Records Millionth of a Second
The Velocity of Projectiles—A New Method of Determ-
ining the Speed of Flying Cannon Balls

REMARKABLE series of expert-

ments for the determination of the

tg XE iy
AFA LY

law of the resistance offered by the air
to spherical projectiles have just been con-
cluded by Professor A. F. Zahm, of the
Catholic University of America, at Washing-
fone SIDE #C,

necessary to measure, with the utmost degree

In these experiments it was

of accuracy, the inconceivable brief space of
time of one millionth of a second, and this
unique achievement Professor Zahm attained
by an apparatus which he invented, and
which must take its place as one of the most
wonderful of scientific instruments.

Professor Zahm was. told,

Measuring Small before
Sub-Divisions
of Time

beginning his ex-
periments, that the accurate
measurement of one-ten-
thousandth of a second would be sufficient
for the purpose of determining the phys-
ical law which he was required to establish,
namely, the part the air played in retard-
balls. No

existed for the measure-

ing the progress of cannon
instrument then
ment of one-ten-thousandth of a second,
and it was felt by Professor Rowland, of
Johns Hopkins University, who suggested
the matter to Professor Zahm, that if the
latter succeeded in inventing such a con-
trivance the cause of science would be
very materially advanced. There have
been many efforts made to devise an instru-
ment for this purpose, but heretofore unsuc-
cessfully.

The relation between the velocity of a
projectile, and the resistance opposed to its
motion by the air, has been the subject of

All of

the results, however, are inaccurate owing to

experiment from the earliest times.
faulty methods. The electric wire recording
device employed by artillerymen 1s, as Pro-
fessor Zahm points out, imperfect, as the
ball, in cutting the wire, first deflects the
latter, while it is impossible to determine the
point of contact. His own experiments have
demonstrated that, contrary to the theory of
Professor Rowland, the elimination of the
millionth part of a second would have ren-
dered the results valueless for the purpose
of scientific accuracy.

As it is, Professor Zahm is the first
to establish the law of air resistance to

——

spherical bodies at speeds at and below
one thousand feet a second.
There

which

were three factors

Measuring Cannon enabled Professor

Ball’s Flight Zahm to devise his apparatus
for measuring the flight of a
cannon ball to the millionth of a second.
One consisted of the very accurate and
frequently verified computations of the law
of falling bodies, the other of photography,
and the third of the possibility of obtaining

sunbeams one-hundreth of an inch or less in

thickness on a falling photographic plate.
The method involving these three factors,
called by Professor Zahm ‘‘ photo-gravity,”’
he had conceived in its essential elements
some years previously. The problem now
lay in obtaining sharp traces of the sunbeams
upon a photographic plate attached to a fall-
ing body, and further and vitally important,
a perfectly sharp record on the plate indicat-
ing where the sunbeam had, for the minute
fractional part of a second, been interrupted.

In order to test how sharply a light-
beam record could be interrupted, Professor
Zahm had a carpenter make a columnar box,
five feet high and three by five inches inside
section, and having two grooves down which
a board carrying a sensitive plate should fall.
Placing a small condensing lens in the side of
the box, he allowed sunlight from a vertical
slit a hundredth of an inch wide and fifty feet
distant to come to an approximate focus on
the falling plate, which was dropped from a
latch.

While the plate was falling he struck
the beam with a stick. It was an anxious
moment for Professor Zahm when he looked
at the plate to see if the interruptions of the
trace of the sunbeam were sufficiently strongly
marked for accurate measurement. The
record was examined under a micrometer
microscope, and showed that the edge of the
interruptions could be located accurately to
one-five-thousandth of an inch, which is,
perhaps, nearly as close as one dare measure
afilm. As the plate was moving one hundred
inches a second, this test showed that the
time of interruption could be fixed accurately
to one-five-hundred-thousandth of a second.
By increasing the speed of the plate and
using stronger light, the accuracy was made

KEY S TON EB 1721

less than one-millionth of a second, while
Professor Zahm hopes, by a further modifica-
tion of the apparatus, to determine intervals
of one-hundred-millionth of a second.

The perfected apparatus em-
ployed by Professor Zahm
for the measurement, with

A Marvelous
Apparatus

this marvelous degree of
accuracy, of the variation in the speed, or,
in other words, the slowing-up of cannon
balls due to air resistance, and thereby the
physical law of the latter, represents much
labor and ingenuity.

The gun from which the balls are fired
is of peculiar construction, every precaution
being taken to guard against deflection of the
ball, which is of hollow steel or wood. The
latter is fired across the room into a box
thickly padded with cotton. On its way it
cuts three minutely narrow sunbeams, admit-
ted by mirrors and apertures, which are
deflected on the rapidly falling photographic
plate.

Professor Zahm takes one of these plates
which has been used, and points to three
minute dots close together at the lower end,
which are barely visible to the naked eye.
These are the so-called ‘‘ zero marks,’’ or
initial positions of the streams of light before
the plate is dropped. The making of these
zero marks involved the invention of a special
apparatus consisting of a thin disk, having a
radial slit, and mounted on a handle by a
spiral spring stiff enough to rotate it very
suddenly. The disk is held cocked before
the open camera-hole and allowed to snap.
As the radial slit flies past the hole, light is
admitted much less than one-thousandth of
a second, thus marking the bottoms of the
straight lines which are seen above, and which
are traced when the plate is dropped. In
these lines are clearly to be seen the breaks
made by the cannon ball in passing each
beam.

A record of this sort obtained, the plate
is laid ona dividing engine. Thus the linear
measurement of the ball’s course between the
first and second, and the second and third
beams of light is determined, and the time of
exposure of the plate is no less accurately
computed by the known law of falling bodies.
The difference in the time of transit of the
ball between the first and second and the
second and third beams can only be repre-
sented in millionths of a second, and hence
the necessity of Professor Zahm’s_ photo-
gravity device. The measurement of one-
ten-millionth of a second, which the professor
hopes soon to achieve, will serve further to
determine the exact resistance offered by the
air to cannon balls, and the problem will then
be to evolve a form of projectile best calcu-
lated to overcome this factor.

LHD

SHE

No.

3719.

Onyx

A EAS EAT

SEE THIS JOINT ?

The only five-Knuckel jointed helmet on the market. Cannot
wabble, work loose or break apart.

‘8 Ny ie
NS rat a7
a py AN

High-Grade 14 K. Hand-Made
Knights Templar Consistory Charms.

Send for selections whenever you have calls for some-
thing better than you carry in stock.

Wendell & Company

New York or Chicago

No, 379, Onyx No, 383

Our Emblem Rings are different from the other kind.
They are 14 K., 6 and 8 dwt., with center emblem raised
and side emblems cut in bas-relief, finely modeled and
enameled. They sell well because they are fine goods
at reasonable prices. Our catalogue tells all about them.
Selections sent.

No. 391 No. 391. Reverse

= lc lr tC

SS LS = °° ©

iver >

ee
* ~~e a —
aa

Coincident with the gradually rising standard of skill and
Motion and taste in window decoration, the utility of motion and

Mechanism mere mechanical attractions has been in constant process
of development. ‘This is especially true as regards single-
line dealers, with many of whom attempts at fine artistic effects were
impracticable, tosay the least. In the larger cities people seem involuntarily
to look to the department stores for all that is rich, rare and beautiful in the
art of displaying merchandise. The department store in this respect enjoys
one of the advantages inherent in sheer bigness, With its myriad wares and
fabrics it has vast possibilities for variety, change and charm. Its window
area is, in itself, an attraction, and every decorator knows from experience
that the greater the area the greater the facilities for the production of
striking and impressive results.

3ut there is a no less inherent magnetism in jewels and
jewelry never more powerful than in our day, so that, let
the department store develop how it may, the jewelry
store will never lose its human interest so long as human

Jewels as
Display Stock

nature remains what it Is.

This is not the jeweler’s only compensation, however, for in view of the
mechanical side of his calling, the growing value of motion and mechanism
as window attractions, to which we have referred above, gives him a
singular advantage over his brethren in other lines. There could be no
better evidence of how the trade has come to realize and appreciate this
advantage than the numerous letters which have of late been received by
THe KerystTone, requesting suggestions for the designing of mechanical
displays. One jeweler, who lives in a gold mining town, writes that a
traveling man told him of a stamp-quartz-mill window display, described
some time ago in our journal, and requests us to favor him with the inform-
ation. As this may interest others similarly located, we will repeat that the
‘“stamps’’? were made of curtain poles, surmounted by tin cans, all painted
a dead black, to look like iron. Underneath the head of each stamp, and
fastened to a horizontal rod, was a four-sided cam, and these cams were
placed irregularly, so that each stamp rose and fell independently. Back of
the screen was a trough inclining toward the front, so that when fed with
water from a hose the trough overran, the water rushing through the screen
and into the front pan, from which it also overflowed to be caught in a
trough at the front and conducted to a waste-pipe. The display of watches
and other goods may be made upon little uprights of tin soldered to the
bottom of the pan, or upon blocks of wood high enough to raise the goods
above the surface of the water. The stamp mill was kept in motion by a
little electric motor.

While on the subject of mechanical displays, we will recall others
which have been used to good purpose: Take a large tin pan—a bread
and a two-quart tin dipper. Have the tinsmith solder the
edge of the dipper
to the edge of the
pan, in the position

pan is best

they would occupy
if one were pouring
water from the dip-
per into the pan.
Have a slot made,

emanate ts : \

one-half inch wide
by four inches long,
in the bottom ot the

ee a

dipper, and also a

corresponding slot

wre yr: ggg fo TERS
LU ) “gee : eT..$ >
ep ends htee Wake

in the edge of the

“a ape

pan, near the bot-
tom. Through these
slots run an endless
band of black velvet

8 AED neo

ee
4 :

passing over rollers back of the pan and dipper which are connected with a
motor. Cover the surface of the velvet with brooches and gems of all
kinds. When the motor is running the effect will be that of a cascade of
jewels pouring from the dipper into the pan. The pan should be filled with
puffed chiffon or some gauzy material, and the dipper also filled with it, so
as to hide the places where the band passes through the slots. On this
puffing may be displayed rings, chains or other articles.

Another idea is to utilize neck-chains, by making a bell of them, to be
suspended in the center of the window. A frame for the bell should first be
made of light wire, having a four or six-inch ring at the top and a twelve or
fifteen-inch ring at the bottom. Fasten one end of a chain to the top ring
and allow it to drape gracefully to the bottom ring, in bell shape. The
chains should lie close together or with but short distances between. The
tongue of the bell may be made of one chain bearing a padded ball at the
end, which may be used for displaying stick-pins, etc.

Nothing makes gems sparkle so delightfully as electric light in motion.
An electric fixture with horizontal arms, bearing two or four lights, should
be made to revolve rapidiy by means of amotor. The effect will be to make
your display of jewels glitter and sparkle wonderfully.

In those sections of the country where agriculture over-
shadows all other industries, and more especially in the
grain belt, very attractive and seasonable window trims
are based on the harvest idea. In all such displays the
spirit of abundance must find expression, for harvest-time is proverbially
the time of plenty. This year the idea is susceptible of additional emphasis,
for agricultural conditions are unusually favorable and, consequently, trade

A Harvest
Display

is on a stable basis, for business is safe when all’s well with the farmer. A
pretty idea is an agricultural scene witha figure of the goddess Ceres holding
under her arm a cornucopia. Here, however, the conception must be modi-
fied to suit the mercantile purpose, for from the cornucopia should protrude
watches, chains, diamonds, rings, pins, brooches and all such articles. Cover
the floor and background with a russet-gold cloth puffed and puckered in
the best possible taste. The sides may be draped with the same material.
At either side of the foreground place a corn sheaf and, if it can be conve-
niently improvised, a harvest man, sickle in hand.

Any jeweler or ingenious jeweler’s assistant should be able to make a
cornucopia out of cardbeard or tin and cover it over daintily ; nor should
much trouble be experienced in finding a suitable figure to symbolize the
season in stores which carry a line of statuary. The corn sheaves may be
freizhted with watches, and all other articles not likely to get lost in the
straw and other goods should be appropriately exhibited in the remaining
spaces. As appropriate legends for the display, “‘A Jewelry Harvest,”’
‘ Harvest Offerings,’’ ‘A Harvest of Opportunities,’’ suggest themselves.
The letters of the one chosen may be made of straw ribs and, provided it
does not interfere
with the perspective
from without, the
sign may be con-
spicuously attached
to the glass, prefer
ably to form the seg:
ment of a circle.
The trimmer can
vary the idea to suit
himself.

Under present
conditions fall trade
will begin early ; the
trade should, there-
fore, now begin a
vigorous campaign
of publicity.

AIKIN, LAMBERT & CO’S NEW and GOOD

Self=Filling Fountain Pen

Retails GAs $3.00 4A, $3.50 5A, $4.50

Made and fully guaranteed by

—— Te <= eres
2%, Ste tree. ee ee ee =~ : ss = =~ =
mStS ar - a ey Sie SS SSS =

Rx. pron te AIKIN,
LAMBERT & CO.

We offer to the trade a new self-filling device in Fountain Pens that we believe for convenience, durability

and simplicity to be the best yet invented for this purpose, and shall be pleased to furnish samples to dealers “
with prices and discounts. " ‘ | = 19 Maiden Lane
It has no ink joint to soil fingers or clothing. Holds three times as much ink as any other self-filler. |
Ink is held in a hard rubber reservoir instead of soft rubber sack. Pressing the bulb expels the air and ink NEW YORK

flows into the barrel.

Jewelers

Please note that we
have in preparation
the most complete
sample line of Wed-
ding and SocietySta-
tionery ever placed
before the trade.

Ready this month,

Let us have your re-

cr SASSO: quest for it now.

“gh ATO ATO x ay :

The “MODEL”

@
Fountain Pen PR — man
THE MODEL OF PERFECTION. Retail Price, $1.00 to $10.00. Made of finest gerade rubber and fitted with
a 14 K. Gold Pen. No extra charge for special imprint. Every pen suaranteed. Write for samples and prices. AIl makes repaired

and returned same day received. HERING & CO., 17-19 John Street, New York

Sorry iaileda devi FOUNTAIN PENS

Lately improved witha PATENTED FEEDING DEVICE

Also makers of
Gold Pens, Fine Pen Holders, Pencils,
Toothpicks, Thermometer Cases and ‘Stylographic Pens,

THE JOHN HOLLAND GOLD PEN CO,
Established 1841 127-129 E. Fourth St., CINCINNATI

~ Miniature Portraits ee Mga tae
a | on WATCHES, DIALS, BROOCHES james H. Dederick S Sons

and LOCKETS ASSAYERS anp BULLION DEALERS

Our work will not fade or peel off

ALL QUALITIES OF GOLD AND SILVER, in Plate, Square and Round Wire,
Hand-Painted Miniatures Copied from any Photo. Rolled to Any Gage,
ALL QUALITIES OF GOLD AND SILVER SOLDER

THE GOLDSTEIN ENGRAVING CO. BUSES Oe 16 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

OLD GOLD AND SILVER

45 Maiden Lane, New York

Diam ond 9-11-13 Maiden Lane

IMPORTERS NEW YORK
$ Tliassof Bros & (0 6: sons OF Watches 100 State St.

i Jewelry ALBANY,N.Y.
A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF DIAMOND-MOUNTED JEWELRY CARRIED IN STOCK

October, 1905

Correct Forms in Social Corre-
spondence

To properly conduct a stationery busi-
ness the jeweler should be well posted on all
matters connected with the social use of his
wares. Heshould know the proper sizes and
form in visiting cards, invi-
tations, etc., and also be well
versed in the correct forms
in social correspondence. His
advice is often solicited on

and if he

enlighten

such matters is

qualified to his
customers, his service will be
appreciated. For personal
as well as business use, he
will find useful the following
which

information, for we

are indebted to the Ladzes’
flome Journal:

For social correspondence
choose plain, unruled stationery,
folding once to fit the envelope,
white, cream white, gray or gray
blue of good quality. Men of
good taste use only white paper.

Avoid eccentric shapes and
colors, monograms or heraldic
devices of unusual size, and any-
thing conspicuously odd.

Anembossed or colored ad-
dress at the head of each sheet
is the sensible fashion of to-day.
Initials used with the address, or
in its stead, are small and usually
inclosed within a ring or scroll.

Social correspondence should
never be conducted upon postal-
cards or upon business or office
paper. That bearing the club
address is correct, as is hotel or
steamship stationery when one’s
own is not available. Half-sheets
are not used. Exceeding neatness, a clear, legible
note without flourishes commends the writer.
Begin two inches from the top
of the sheet. The wordsshould

Style in Written
be clearly separated, a three-

Letters

quarter-inch margin at the be-
einning of each line, and the writing carried not
quite to the edge of the page. A new paragraph
should introduce each new subject, leaving an inch-
wide margin at the left.

If one cannot write evenly and straight a sheet
of black lines may be slipped under the page. It
is the present fashion to write on the first and
fourth pages, then crosswise on the third and second,
for convenience in blotting. The date, written in
full, should be placed at the top of a letter at the
right side. On a note it is written at the close at
the left of and below the signature.

Business letters begin with ‘‘Sir’’ or ‘‘ Dear
Sir,’’ ox *‘ Dear Sirs” or “*Gentlemen,’ pretaced

T HE

new styles :

Ky Ss. Ff Ons

by the name and address. Either ‘‘My dear” or
‘Dear’? is equally good form for social corre-
spondence. ‘‘ Dear Miss”? is provincial ; a woman’s
surname must follow that prefix, though ‘‘ Dear
Madam”? is perfectly correct for formal or business
letters, whether the woman addressed be married
or unmarried and the writer man or woman.

Women of the same social rank, though total
strangers, address one another ‘‘ My dear Mrs.
A ’? when need arises for correspondence.

A woman addresses a man who is a stranger,
‘‘Mr. John Jones,’’ and beneath it ‘‘ Dear Sir,”
though if he be the friend of a friend she may write
“* Dear Mr. x

The most ceremonious letters are written in

SCHOOL SUPPLIES

We have a very large and varied stock of

Stationery Supplies for use in school and college—
everything needed by the pupil or teacher—and
all at lower prices than ever before.

Stenographers’ Books

Patent Letter Clips

Pen Wipers

Pencil Cases

Cloth School Bags

Folding Lunch Boxes

Pens, Ind and Writing
Materials

Slates and Slate
Pencils

Assorted Lead Pencils

Crayons in Assorted
Colors

Pen and Pencil Tablets

Map-drawing Tablets

Drawing Books

There have been many improvements in
ountain Pens since last season. Call and see the
self-filling and non-leakable.

SMITH & FOX

General Stationers

Sample Stationery Advertisement

the third person,.in which case the name is not
signed at the close.

The formal ending for letters is
Ending of Letters ‘‘ Yours truly”’ or ‘‘ Very truly

yours,’’ for general social corre-
spondence ; ‘‘ Very sincerely yours”? and ‘‘ Yours
very cordially,’’ among friends ; while ‘‘ Fondly,”’
‘¢ Affectionately ”’
terms used among close friends.
yours” is not a correct term among social equals.
Sien your full name, avoiding initials.

“Lovingly yours”? are the
“Respectfully

When a woman wishes to indicate to a stranger
that she is married or single she signs her name
thus: ‘‘Mary Holmes Lee (Mrs. Henry Lee)”’ or
‘* (Miss) Mary Lee.”

Since envelopes now adequately safeguard
their contents, sealing-wax is used only as a deco-
ration, and should be neatly affixed.

Inclose a stamp or self-addressed stamped
envelope when writing to strangers if an answer be

1725

desired. A lady inquiring the character of a servant
need not do this.

In addressing the envelope write name and
address distinctly. ‘‘John Smith, Esq.,’”’ is the
fashionable form of addressing a gentleman, rather
than ‘‘Mr. John Smith,’ though inside the letter
one says ‘‘ Dear Mr. Smith.’’ Never write ‘‘ Mrs.
Doctor”’ or ‘Mrs. General’? any more than ‘‘ Mrs.
Shopkeeper.’’

A letter is written conversation and should be
simple, cordial and with a flavor of personality,
like a chat with a friend.

When discouraged, sick or sad do not write—

a letter carries atmosphere. Never write anything
over your signature of which you might later be
ashamed. Write kindly of every
one. Letters are like debts, harder
to pay when overdue. Read over
your friend’ s letter just before
beginning your reply—and then
answer it. Out-of-the heart letters
are the most welcome.
Notes of thanks
should be sent
promptly; it
costs less effort,
and thanks lose their grace when
deferred. Notes of condolence
are expected only from intimate
friends of the bereaved or of the
deceased. ‘They should be sent
shortly after the funeral has taken
place. Their expression must
come warm from the heart to
find its way to the hearts of others
—short and sincere. Answers to
notes of condolence should not
be expected. When convenient
the recipient may write or send
a line on a card saying, ‘‘ Your
sympathy was most warmly ap-
preciated.”’

An engagement is announced
by informal notes written by the
betrothed to their friends, and by
their parents to the family con-
Happiness will inspire
expression for the former.

Notes of congratulation
should be prompt, natural and
marked by joyous spontaneity.

Notes announcing the birth
of achild are usually sent to inti-
mate friends, and should be an-
swered with hearty and kindly
sympathy. If ona card beneath
the parents’ names is written ‘‘ announce the birth
of a son, on May fifth, etc.,’’ a card may be sent
in acknowledgment bearing the word ‘‘ Congratula-
or a line of friendly felicitation.

: s

Thanks, Con-
dolence and
Congratulation

nections.

hte
= oe
mA Ss
A a

’

tions,’

lor invitations, the conventional
Formal Invitations wording is in the best taste.

‘““Unique’’ modes suggest ba-
zars and money-making entertainments. In writing
formal invitations, follow the wording of engraved
ones, leaving an entire line for each name, the
whole occupying the center of the sheet, with
ample margins, the top margin twice the width of
the others. Abbreviatfons and numerals are not
used.

One never writes any form of regret or accept-
ance on a visiting-card, however informal the
invitation.

Formal regrets usually plead ‘‘a previous”’
or ‘“‘another engagement.’” Where none exists an
informal regret may be written.

1726

FALL SEASON

Stock Complete and Choice

Loose DIAMONDS Mounted

Elgin WATCHES Waltham
Gold JEWELRY Gold Filled

25 East Fifth Street

THE ULI DETACHABLE

HANDLE is so simple in construction
it costs no more than ordinary makes
and is guaranteed to be stronger than
any other handle, either regular or
detachable. Almost every umbrella
above one dollar each that we have
made during the past five years has
been made detachable, and every one
was absolutely satisfactory. We created
a universal demand for detachable
handles, and other manufacturers,
noting our success, have made detach-
able handles, but they are so complicated
they are not only liable to get out of
order, but cost from ten cents to
twenty-five cents extra, and will not fit
perfectly when interchanged from one
umbrella to another,

HULL BrOtHerS

Norwalk

Trade-Mark

A. G. SCHWAB & BRO.

CINCINNATI

TS ee rrr

My. 0 y jy eins Wiis ASS ze 7
© Fak a m MA ley te i
aS EES SPR SLES ES NETS Cited

In placing your order for HOLIDAY
UMBRELLAS, buy the kind that has
a REPUTATION and SPECIAL
FEATURES.

The HULL line is distinctly a
JEWELER’S line, because they are
BETTER MADE and MORE
SIGHTLY than any other line on the
market. Over a thousand styles of
FINE HANDLES to select from.

Write to-day for BOOKLET, CATA-
LOGUE and EXCLUSIVE SALE for
the jewelry trade in your city.

Do not make the mistake of buying
a detachable handle at an extra cost,
or one which has not stood the test of
time. Thousands of jewelers have
found that ‘‘ HULL”’ is ‘‘the name to
tie to.”’

Samples sent prepaid.

Umbrella Co.

Ohio

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October, 1905

Foolish Patents That are
Applied For
E don’t have to look over so many tom-
fool applications for patents nowadays as
in former years, but the funny practition-
ers of patent law still favor us with
occasional farcical applications,’’ said a principal
examiner in the patent office. ‘‘ These applications
are always in regulation form, and the specifications
describe all sorts of nonsensical contrivances.
‘“Not long ago one of these ap-
plications drifted in, covering
claims for an attachable tail for
stump-tail dogs. The applica-
tion was drawn up with great elaboration, and
accompanied by numerous drawings that must have
cost the expenditure of considerable time and effort.
It was plainly the work of an idle young attorney.

‘The specifications recited the difficulty which
short-tailed dogs are alleged to experience in turn-
ing sharp corners, and also dwelt feelingly upon
the obvious humiliation with which short-tailed dogs
regard their abbreviated caudal appendages, especi-
ally when they come into social contact with other
dogs better fixed out in that respect. Then the
specifications described the attachable tail at great
length, and the application wound up with numer-
ous serious and technically worded claims for the
propriety of the invention.

‘“This, of course, is all fun, or at any rate it is

meant to be fun. But many of the bona fide appli-
cations for patents are more genuinely funny than
the farcical applications.
‘* There is a never-ending stream
of applications for freak patents.
Not long ago a Chicago man
applied for a patent on an
electric hog-killing apparatus. The contraption
was so devised that the unsuspecting hog stuck
his head through an aperture in an electrically
wired compartment, closed a circuit by butting his
snout against a metal sheet, and with his head firmly
held within the aperture by a drop clutch appara-
tus, practically committed involuntary suicide.

‘Another man from the West applied, not
long ago, for a patent on an electric horse. The
horse is fashioned of aluminum, the body com-
pletely covered with the hide of a deceased horse,
and in every respect the animal is made to look as
natural as life, even being provided with movable
eyeballs.

‘“The electrical horse is intended to run with

the natural movements of a sure-enough live horse,
and, according to the applicant, is capable of doing
a mile a minute, ‘just cantering,’ ashe states. The
applicant doesn’t state what he is going to do with
his electrical horse after he gets his patent—suppos-
ing he gets it—but it is presumed that he meditates
entering his imitation runner as a ringer in races
with honest and truly live thoroughbreds.
‘‘ A few years agoa queer genius
in New England applied for a
patent on an improved tomb-
stone, a metal affair involving a
lot of odd kinds and designed to resist wind and
weather for many thousands of years. The appli-
cant has died since filing his application, and one
of his tombstones adorns his own resting place ina
small Massachusetts village, with the following
inscription wrought on the face of it:

Artificial Tails
of Dogs

A Hog-Killing
Apparatus

’

An Everlasting
Tombstone

‘Here lies Wendell, an inventor by trade,

And this you will see, is an invention he made.

Tis strange to say, though ’tis most truly said

That he joes it while living and enjoyed it when
ead.’

THE

‘Still stowed away somewhere in the base-
ment, I believe, is the rough model of a combined
plough and cannon, a patent upon which was
applied for by a Nebraska farmer. His farm was
near the Sioux Reservation, and the cannon attach-
ment to his plough was meant for the sun-dancing
Ogallalas, who engaged in farm raiding.

‘“While ploughing in his field the crafty agri-
culturist could, by simply turning his plough upside
down, load a small but effective cannon wherewith
to shoot or scare the prowling red persons. The
cannon was provided with an ammunition box and
all of the appliances necessary for the proper serv-
ing of the piece.

‘““Another queer application
from a Western farmer was for

Hens and

Inventors a patent on a thing he calleda
hen pusher. It was intended to

prevent hens from scratching and monkeying

around in garden patches. Hooks of peculiar
construction were to be attached to the hen’s feet so
that when she dug into the ground she was gently
pushed forward by the hook and spring apparatus.

‘‘ Another application for a patent on a device
for the bewilderment of the abused hen came ina
while ago. Itwas called a patent hen’s nest. The
idea of it was to prevent weasels, rats and the like
from raiding hens’ nests and sucking the eggs,

‘“There was a small hole, concealed by a
natural-looking straw flap in the bottom of the nest,
and through this secret orifice the egg, as soon as
the hen laid it, was dropped to a padded compart-
ment below. There was a lot of meanness about
that device, in my opinion. But some of these agri-
cultura] inventors are forever fixing up underhand
devices for the humiliation and discouragement of
the hen.

‘“A few years ago a machine called the
mechanical housemaid was actually patented. The
apparatus churns butter, washes and irons clothes,
rocks the baby and performs all the rest of the
household work except the fancy sewing and put-
ting the cat out at night. The patentee, in his
specifications, describes the operation of the
machine at great length:

““*You place your baby in the cradle,’ he
wrote in essence, ‘your cream in the churn, your
clothes to be washed in the receptacle provided
therefor,’ etc., and the rest was the merest turning
of a magical crank that started all of these various
activities to buzzing.
actually

“A pecular patent,

Life-Saving granted, for the saving of human
Parachute life from burning buildings is a

portable parachute contrivance
which the inventor aims to have installed in every
room of every hotel on the globe. The man who
is caught on the twelfth or twentieth floor of a
burning hotel has only to fasten the parachute
firmly to his head by means of chain and neck
straps, and then jump into space, with or without a
muttered prayer.

‘Before donning the portable parachute he
has fastened shoes with thick rubber soles to his
feet—the shoes being part of the apparatus—in
order to give him a gentle bounce when he hits the
ground. The chap who invented this thing gave a
demonstration of the working of the contrivance
before he received his patent, hopping off the roof
of a hotel in a Western city, unbeknown to the
proprietor of the hostelry.

‘‘The parachute opened up all right, but the
inventor’s descent was so extremely gradual and
deliberate that he was considerably more than
three parts hanged by the neck when he reached
the ground,

SEY Ss © NE

1727

‘“An invention for the terrifying of rats and
mice was patented long ago, and I understand that
it has become a seller. The invention was simply
a papier mache cat provided with luminous eyes.
The idea is to plunk the papier mache cat down
before a rat hole and the luminous eyes do the rest.

‘All sorts of patents have been

Mechanical granted for rendering the milking
Cow-Milkers of cows easy or easier. Orville

Grant, a brother of General
Grant, got out one of these patents. The fact
that it wasn’t particularly practicable was mani-
fested by General Grant’s description of how it
worked :

‘““* Orville tried the thing on an untrained cow
that had no respect for patents,’ said General
Grant. ‘Orville didn’t look so pretty when he got
through, but he knew a sight more.’

‘‘A Chicago man who stated in his application
that he had been twice held up by footpads, neither
of whom he cared to shoot to death with the pistol
he carried on his person, because he didn’t want to
have the shedding of human blood on his soul,
applied for a patent on a ‘hollow bullet with a
gelatine tip.’ The hollow bullet was to be filled
with a certain powerful gas.

‘Upon striking the miscreant intended to be
brought down, the soft gelatine tip of the bullet
would drop off, permitting the escape of the afore-
mentioned pewerful gas, the overpowering narcotic
properties of which were designed to put the victim
to sleep for an indefinite length of time. The
Chicago man couldn’t exactly prove his case, and so
he didn’t get his patent.

‘Some patents taken out by a number of great
men look freakish enough when viewed from the
standpoint of present-day ingenuity. The working
model of Abraham Lincoln’s device for raising
vessels from upon which a patent
granted, is an oddly out-of-date affair to look over,
So is the model of Mark Twain’s scrapbook, upon
which the humorist took out a patent many years
ago. It was thought to be very ingenious and
clever at the time Mr. Clemens got it out, but
improved scrapbooks came so thick and fast that
he never made anything out of it.’’

—Chicago Inter-Ocean.,

shoals, was

Where Electricity is Troublesome

Everybody has noticed how friction generates
electricity, whether on the back of a petted cat, or
on a rubbed glass or gutta-percha rod, or at the
fingers’ ends of a person who has vigorously
shuffled his feet over a dry carpet. Sparks can
often be from swiftly-moving belts on
machinery, and in weaving and spinning processes
the fibres sometimes accumulate troublesome
electric charges. A method known as the Chap-
man process has been devised for neutralizing the
static electricity generated in cotton and paper-
mills, printing-press rooms and other places. It
consists of a transformer stepping up in an alter-
nating current to 10,000 of 20,000 volts and an
inductor composed of fine steel wires encased in
hard rubber, and arranged with its points placed
above the web or other object in which the static
electricity is to be neutralized. Charges passing
from the points produce the desired effect.

drawn

“The Keystone ts good enough for me; I
could not suggest any timprovement. TI take an
interest in the entire book, mostly in Workshop
Notes and optics.’—B. F. Cowles, Jeweler,
Talmage, Nebraska.

Full line of German Silver Bags and Purses

IN SIZES FROM 2 INCHES TO 6 INCHES

ROMAN, SILVER

OLD ENGLISH FINISH
WHITE KID LININGS

BACK COMBS
DR ACHE TS
CUFF PINS
BAT PINS
SCARF PINS
* NECK CHAINS
EC,
CIGARE!] TE. CASES
MATCH BOXES
LOVING CUPS
COUN Om Din ks
CIGAR CUTTERS
KEY RINGS
KNIVES

4 BROOCHES
DIS IE le eu % BEAD NECKS
XS

These bags have many meri-
torious points in style, construc-
tion and finish. The principle
upon which they are made
obviates rivets, and the tops
are not drilled. Just as good
is but a tribute to their superi-

ority, and should be so under-

SClSsORS
stood. Our Bag is the best. RTE.
Codding & Heilborn ie North Attleboro, Mass.
New York—Chas. Van Ness, 11 Maiden Lane Chicago—G. 8S. Titus, 88 Monroe St, San Francisco—H, CC, Van Ness & Co,, 115 Kearny St.

Do YOU KNOW

that the majority of our students are sons of
watchmakers and jewelers ?

What is the reason for this? Simply,
because the watchmakers and jewelers are
well aware of the fact that their sons learn
more in six months in our School than they
can in nearly that many years at home in

their own store.
We don’t mean to say by this that the
watchmakers are not able to teach their sons

just as good as we can, but we do say: that

they cannot devote enough of their valuable

time to teaching, and that it is a great deal

cheaper if the watchmakers send their sons

to our School instead of teaching themselves.

Now, Mr. Watchmaker, if you wish to

give your son a thorough education in the

various branches pertaining to the jewelry

business, you will not make a mistake by ge Z
Ti ine ie é 7 ous

sending him to our School at once.

It IS an investment from which your son Witohoualing aa. 7 med rr y So es Lape
eter eels AMAA hd

will draw interest in better pay and increased

self-respect as long as he lives.

For more particulars send for our new Engraved by E. P. RAGSDALE after four weeks’ instruction

Catalog to-day,

St. Louis Watchmaking School, ss:5 easton Ave., St. Louis, Mo.

October, 1905

Silver Service of the
Battleship Mansas

The State of Kansas, yclept ‘‘bleeding,”’
in ye olden time, has a different reputation
now-a-days. Her fertile soil, her oleaginous
subterranean seas, her fat herds, her enter-
prising people and her spirit of independence
and self-assertion have given her a promi-
nence, a wealth and a lift towards plutocracy
that are the envy of her sister States. A

THE

punch-bowl or centerpiece, shown on this
page, with the accompaniment of a ladle and
twelve cups all of beautiful design appropriate
to the State ; a large tray, four-piece tea set,
two five-light candelabra, a soup tureen, two
covered vegetable dishes, a meat dish, a fish
dish, an entré dish, a water pitcher and tray,
four bon-bon dishes and a cigar box.

The designing is characteristic of the art
department of the Gorham Company in its
appropriateness and artistic conception. The
State floral emblem, the sunflower, of course,

KEYSTONE

1728 a

occasion of much comment on acccunt of the
innovation of baptizing her with water instead
of the traditional champagne. But ‘‘all’s
well that ends well,’ and the good ship
Kansas was happily launched and will be
creditably equipped for the national service,
even to her tableware.

The precedent set in the presentation of
silver services to the warships by the States
and cities after which they are named is now
being followed without any exception, and
the fact that many such ships are being

Centerpiece of Silver Service to ‘be Presented to the Battleship Aunsas

recent honor paid the State was the conferring
of her name on a battleship, and Kansas
showed her appreciation and good taste by
presenting the big war craft with a silver
service of regal richness. The contract for
this service was awarded to Edward Vail &
Co., jewelers, of Wichita, who submitted
designs and estimates on behalf of the Gor-
ham Mfg. Co., of New York and Providence,
who have furnished many other warships
with a similar equipment. The service in its
entirety weighs two thousand ounces, and
the cost is $5000, which was appropriated by
the State for this purpose.

The service, which will consist of thirty-
five pieces, will comprise the following: The

has a prominent place in the decoration,
being shown on every piece. On one side of
the punch-bowl, as here shown, is an etching
representing the battleship Aamzsas, and in
a similar space on the other side is an engrav-
ing representing the capitol building. The
seals of the State of Kansas and of the
United States are also prominent in the design.

The service to the Kansas was notable
for the publicity given it, from the inception
of the project until the order was finally
placed. Some of the more economic legis-
lators of the Sunflower State objected to such
lavishness, but pride and patriotism triumphed
and the costly service was finally agreed upon.
The launching of the big ship, too, was the

constructed furnishes our designers with a
magnificent opportunity for distinguishing
themselves. The competitive manner of
awarding the contract and the liberality of
the appropriations , also stimulate to extra
effort, and our leading silverware manufac-
turers can look hopefully forward to many
such contracts in the future. The drawings
submitted in each case are triumphs of
artistic designing, and even the unsuccessful
ones are well worthy of preservation as
embodying in harmonious unity the various
things symbolic of the various States. These
designs may be used to good purpose in
many other ways. It is gratifying to know
the designs accepted showed excellent taste.

17286 ae : Bie os es
RAN ORR RO OBC EO ROR MRE Re fe

Just Remember ‘oe

that we are going to have one of
the most prosperous seasons in the aa
history of the jewelry industry. Me
Don’t forget this. Make prepara- a
tions for it by placing orders for
your goods early.

There will be an enormous de-

mand for up-to-date goods. We
have them. Our new Bracelets and

Crosses are ‘* par excellence.’’

—_ | x
If you wish to be in it beens the sun autre bright es
Buy the goods which sell at sight se

S. O. bigney F Co.

Factory, Attleboro, Mass.

New York Office, 3? Maiden Lane

SEAS RSRC TVS NOSRCORS RCTS SRR RRC EU Ug nae eR an acemnaegeRy

(es (eel
EOE EWE E EO RO RG ROR ORG EB ORG TT

October, 1905

[The illustration and description of new goods and inventions as hereunder is a
permanent feature of THE KEYSTONE, our twofold object being to keep the jeweler and
optician thoroughly posted on the very latest and most salable goods, and the workman at
the bench equally well posted on the newest inventions and improvements in tools and
appliances. |

New Pivot Polisher and Grinder

The growing demand for rapidity
and efficiency in the repair depart-
ment makes it imperative upon the
progressive jeweler to keep in line
with all improvements in workshop
equipment. One of the latest addi-
tions to the jewelers’ mechanical
outfit is the lightning pivot polisher
and grinder, shown in the accom-
panying illustration. This tool, which
has been placed upon the market by
Jos. Hornback & Co., 11 West Fifth Street, Cincinnati, Ohio, can be
attached to the countershaft instantaneously. It has two bell-metal laps,
one straight and one conical. It needs no adjusting and is very simple.

A New Demagnetizer

As the demagnetizer has become an important feature of the watch-
maker’s outfit in this electrical age, the jeweler will be interested in the new
electric automatic demagnetizer, shown herewith, which is furnished to the
trade by W. Green & Co., 6 Maiden Lane, New York. This demagnetizer
not only transforms direct current into alternating current, but it can also be

used on an alternat-

. ing-current circuit

oa with equally satis-
| ASS, factory results.

\\\ hf/ ! There: are 16
NAS UA f Hf i] 3
Qe, } wheels; pulleys or
= 4 BN = a 6@

a ' ( wiring attachments
= = [aM to get out of order,
\ ; at . .
| sq and the device is

j Soe 7
p<} constructively neat
ae/

fa |
f

and compact. It
is made of solid
polished mahog-
any, with nickel
trimmings, inside
and out; the drum
is covered in solid
leather and lined
inside with water-
tight leather. This
demagnetizer may
be used on any
standard lighting
circuit by simply
removing the lamp
from the electric-
light socket and
placing it in the
socket on the lamp;
the plug is then
to be placed in the
socket from which
the lamp has been
taken. The same
company has placed upon the market, under an improved system, American-
made balance staffs and hole jewels for American watches in separate size
holes and pivot. Both staffs and jewels are interchangeable. The staffs
are highly polished, tempered, perfectly true and correctly gaged. The
jewels are genuine ruby and sapphire of the finest quality, and settings are
gaged to fit accurately. The countersink in the jewels is sufficiently deep to
prevent the spreading of oil, and the walls of the jewels are short without
being too thin, The staffs and jewels are arranged in cabinets, each size

KE YY S T oO N EB

1728 ¢

hole and pivot in a separate bottle, thus facilitating selection. Each bottle
is numbered to correspond with an accurate directory and guide, placed in
each cabinet, to enable any size or style to be duplicated by number,

The New “ Forget-Me-Not” Clock

A very pretty idea is embodied in ieeccmatocs
the little clock from Vienna, shown in
our illustration. The maker took into
account the number of times a day it is
necessary to look at the face of a clock,
and wished each of these glances to
bring a pleasant thought. So the
frame of the clock was designed to
hold a photograph of the one most
dear to the owner of the clock ; hence,
the name, ‘‘Forget-Me-Not.’’ The
illustration shows in detail one of the
four different designs in which the
““forget-me-not’’ clocks are made.
While they originated in Vienna, they
are modeled in very graceful lines
after Parisian l’art nouveau designs.
The clocks themselves are made of
metal, finished in beautiful colors and
will hold a photograph 14 x 3 inches.
They are imported by the American
Cuckoo Clock Co., of Philadelphia,
Pa., who have prepared a folder in
colors which reproduces the clocks
faithfully.

New Automatic Electro-Plating Machine

Now that a serviceable electro-plating outfit has become a recognized
essential of the jewelry shop, the trade will be interested in the device
shown in this illustration, which represents the latest developments in the
construction of these machines. This apparatus has been placed upon the
market by H. Hirschbach, proprietor of the United States Electro Chemical
Co., 80 Elm Street, New York. It works automatically and will fulfill all
the requirements necessary to successful plating. No acids are used, as the
electric motive force lasts for months ; enough is supplied with the machine

wuromaTi¢ ELECTED
PLATING 2
MACHINE,

kA
NS:

9 uel

ae pene ; =

to last for a year, and another year’s supply can be purchased for about fifty
cents. The patented devices are so constructed as to instantly set the
machine ready for action when needed, or out of action when work is
fiuished. In the cut a lever will be noticed, which, if turned to No. 1, will
automatically lower an «rm, producing a weak current; another turn to
No. 2 lowers the second arm, increasing the current strength, and a turn
to No. 3 preduces a still stronger current, suitable for all kinds of work.
When finished, a turn of the lever to No. o will move all the arms upwards,
at once stopping all further chemical or electrical action and preserving the
electrical elements as well as the electrical fluid. The machine is supplied
with anode and cathode posts, to which the wires leading to the plating
solution are attached. A current indicator shows the strength and the cor-
rect working of the machine.

(Continued on page 1728 ¢e)

1728.2

The ‘*‘NORMA”’ Adjustable Bracelet

(Patented 1905)

Worn with perfect ease. Adjustable to any wrist. Flexible and smooth.
Adapted to the requirements of the finest jewelry trade.

The most novel display box
No. 134

Bright Finish Signet, Gold Front Center for Monogram ever shown. In two Separate
parts. Ihe Bracelet rests. on
pad held by a spring. Slight-
est jar sets Bracelet in motion.

No. 109
Plain Bright Finish

The **¢ NORMA”? is made in Not
Bright Finish, Rose Center, Set with Pearls
14. K. to plate stock. In style,
finish and workmanship is un-

surpassed.

Prices range from $27.00 to

See aah; a eel eae eee $72.00 per dozen. We illus- poor Ruby and Diamonds Alternating. “Very Eifecuive
trate but a few of the many
styles. Send for new catalogue.
Ask your jobber to show you

the New Bracelet.

Patented and made only by

THE F. H. SADLER COMPANY

Manufacturers of Rings and Jewelry

Attleboro, Mass.

October, 1905 ae Eee:

New Goods and Inventions

(Continued from page 1728 c)

Unique Glass and Metal Novelties

Among the most
interesting and timely
offerings of the season
are the lines of glass
and metal stationery
goods and novelties
that have been placed
upon the market. by
the Apollo Silver Co.,
542 Broadway, New York. These goods, a sample set of which is here
illustrated, comprise desk sets made in opalesque glass, mounted in pierced
metal and finished in verd antique; loving cups, steins, alcohol lamps, etc.,
made in real copper and trimmed with zinn and brass. The designs are
original and ornate and the articles themselves of everyday usefulness. The
demand for gifts and novelties, inevitable at the close of the year, seems
admirably anticipated in these unique lines,

Sane He Picea a SAN AEE NAA dam

BR CARS WANY OD Pe)

New Decalcomania Optical Sign

In the accompanying illustration is
shown, in reduced size, a novel advertising
device specially designed to help the busi-
ness of the optician. It consists of a decal-
comania sign exploiting the Titan eyeglass
guard, manufactured by F. A. Hardy & Co.,
Chicago, from which firm this attractive sign
may be obtained free of charge upon request.
These signs are a decided novelty in their
way, and in this age of advertising, competi-
tion and ingenious store attractions, their
practical advantages are obvious. The
optician must needs keep his business prominently before the public if he
would escape being eclipsed, and to do so a decalcomania sign, such as is
here shown, will prove a valuable and manifestly economic aid.

A New Spring-Lock Bracelet

A feature of the season’s product in the jewelry line is a multiplicity of
bracelet patterns, there being an unusual wealth of new styles as well as a
number of constructive improvements. A new addition to the list is shown

in the accompanying illustration and is made by the Wolcott Mfg. Co., of
Providence, R. I. This is a spring-lock bracelet and is styled the
“ Alethea.’’ Its convenience to the wearer and security, in conjunction
with its refinement of design and richness of finish, entitle it to a prominent
place among the salable lines of the season.

KEY Ss TON EB 1728 ¢€

New Flexible Bracelet

In the accompanying illustration we show a flexible bracelet of an
original and attractive design. This bracelet has been named the ‘‘ Norma,”’
and is made in 14 karat, one-twentieth gold plate, by the F. H. Sadler Co.,
Attleboro, Mass. It is worn
with perfect ease, is smooth
to the skin and, being flexi-
ble, can be adjusted to any
size of wrist. The ‘‘ Norma”’
is handsomely finished and
comes in various centers and
settings. Its attractive quali-
ties are enhanced by the
display box in which it is
supplied. This box consists of two separate parts. The bracelet rests on a
pad held by a spring, and is set in motion by the slightest jar, thus attracting
additional attention.

New Silverware Pattern

A very pretty and seasonable pattern of silverware is shown in this
illustration. This pattern is known as ‘‘ The Violet,’’ from the beautiful
flower after which it has been designed, and is finished in French gray. It

is made by Simeon L. & George H. Rogers Co., Hartford, Conn., and is a
very handsome example of the silversmith’s art. The flower seems to lend
itself to the beautification of the metal with very artistic effect, the die work
is excellent and the general contour graceful and pleasing. In view of the
approach of the holiday season such patterns as ‘‘ The Violet’’ should prove
very popular features of the jeweler’s stock,

A New Revolving Display Stand

An admirable new window fixture is
very imperfectly shown in our illustration.
It is a revolving display stand, in which
the mirror, glass disk and gold trimmings
revolve in different directions and at dif-
ferent speeds with the electric globe at the
top remaining stationary. Trimmed with
jewelry it makes a window display that
cannot fail to arrest the attention. The
stand is durably constructed. The stand-
ards are made of seamless steel tubing,
running on hightly tempered steel ball
bearings, with brass pulleys and gearings.
These stands are made by the J. H. James
Mfg. Co., Fort Scott, Kans. The first and
third section of shelves revolve to the right,
and the second and top to the left, and at
different rates of speed, ranging from four
to ten revolutions per minute, the electric
globe at the top remaining stationary. The
lower shelf is a 32-inch French plate mirror ;

the others are heavy plate glass, 27, 22 and 17 inches respectively, all having
half-inch bevel or polished edges as ordered. The trimmings between the
shelves are brass, polished and lacquered, and can be had in gilt or nickel
finish as may be desired.

New Issue of Watch Movements

The unprecedented activity in the
watch market lends timely interest to the
announcement by the American Waltham
Watch Co. of a new issue of its 16-size
nickel movements. These movements,
which are 3¢ plate, stem wind and pendant
setting, are described as follows: 17 jewels,
red gilded settings ; exposed pallets; cut
expansion balance; patent breguet hair-
spring, hardened and tempered in form ;
patent micrometric regulator; tempered steel safety barrel; exposed
winding wheels ; red gilded center wheel.

TO THE RETAILER

We wish to remark that

My QUALITY TALKS

We do not have to say our chains are as good
as some others, but we do say emphatically
that if you desire some of the very best on the
market, purchase from your Jobber the ones with the C. A. M. & Co. stamp
or trade-mark, which are guaranteed not only in quality but in thickness and
karat of gold.

TRADE=MARK

= a
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: | PATENT APPLIED ain _ ©

A combination of locket chain, and chatelaine

tO OME OOOO CZ CEGARCGOCGEBGAG Zee z. St,
TSGSDRESDSLESE

* pin, which may be worn as a safety chatelaine,
& as illustrated above, or the chain and pin may be
| worn independent of each other, if desired.

e sR

; Ss Y) es e *

ee 88 Can be detached in an instant

YOUR JOBBER

has it in his new fall line, and the constantly

increasing sales are the best evidence of the
| favor with which it is being received by the
Trade all over the country.
|

Originated and Introduced by

C.A. MARSH & CO., Attleboro, Mass.

October, 1905

Frank Weakly, alias Harry Johnson, and Harry
Parker, were convicted recently for murdering and

robbing Pawnbroker Moyer, of Detroit. Judge
Phelan immediately sentenced the pair to Marquette
Prison for life. The crime for which they were
convicted was one of the most brutal murders in
the history of Detroit. The pair entered Moyer’s
pawnshop while he was alone, his clerk having
gone to supper. They immediately set upon him
and pounded his head with a loaded hammer-
handle. Mr. Moyer put up an awful fight and the
brutes had to hit him fifteen or twenty times. He
died within an hour after the attack. As soon as
they saw he was helpless, the murderers helped
themselves to all the diamonds that were on display,
amounting in value to thousands of dollars, and
¢$rooo in cash. They escaped out the back
way, and took the night boat for Cleveland. When
their money was gone they tried to pawn some of
the articles in a Cleveland pawnshop and, the
broker becoming suspicious, sent for the police.
They arrived and caught the pair with the goods
on them. The goods bore the original price tags.
The prisoners were brought to Detroit, and John-
son confessed and then denied his confession.
Their trial lasted five days.

Harry Piper, for many years with D. E. Hol-
land, Lapeer, Mich., has had the good fortune to
be bequeated $10,000 in cash by the will of the
late Julia E. Hockley, of Muskegon, Mich. Mr.
Piper is over seventy years of age.

Capt. George Doty, aged ninety years, died
recently at his home in Detroit. He was a resi-
dent of Detroit since 1825. He came here from
New York. He established in Detroit the first
jewelry store in Michigan, and for many years this
store was considered the finest west of New York.
Deceased was the oldest Odd Fellow in the State.
He is survived by a widow and three daughters.

W. C. Morse has opened a jewelry store at
Benton Harbor, Mich. He was formerly in Terre
Haute, Ind.

T. E. Dexter, of Bellevue, Mich., has been
compelled to give up his jewelry business on
account of peor health.

W. W. Bugg, of Detroit, has bought the jewelry
store of J. B. Tomlinson, at Jackson, Mich.

G. T. Wood, who formerly conducted a jewelry
store at East Tawas, Mich., has moved to Foley,
Minn., where he will engage in the same business.

A. G. Wood, formerly with J. Leith, Bay City,

Mich., is now doing watch repairing for J. L. P.
Gentil, Monroe, Mich.

Oscar Weseman, formerly with Geo. E. Childs,
at Flint, Mich., has started in business for himself
at El Reno, Oklahoma.

J. F. Plimley, manufacturing jeweler, of Detroit,
recently delivered an order for one thousand society
buttons.

Burr, Patterson & Co., manufacturing jewelers,
of Detroit, recently made a ring fora Detroit retailer
that was valued at $3000. It was made of 18 K.
gold. Diamonds and rubies composed the settings

Weyhing Bros. & Co., finding that their present
quarters at 16 John R. Street were no longer
sufficiently commodious for their business, have
secured roomy apartments in the Valpey Building.
They will avail of their increased space to instal
several new departments.

THE

Peter
man, of Escanaba,
home in that place recently.
eight years of age.

The Fair, astore at Decatur, Mich., was robbed
recently. The thieves got away with about $100
worth of jewelry.

S. P. Flayer, a jeweler, of Detroit, had a very
narrow escape from death recently. He was riding
his wheel when he was struck by an auto. He
luckily escaped with a very few bruises.

Recent callers on the trade in Detroit were:
L. W. Kerbs, Wayne, Mich.; Mrs. H. Siegel,
Copac,, Mich.; F. N. Pauli, Pontiac, Mich. ; W.
F. King, Jr., Adrian, Mich. ; M. Ferguson, Romeo,
Mich. ; Geo. E. Hopps, Kingston, Mich.; M. D.
Walton, Armada, Mich.; E. R.. Britten, Eaton
Rapids, Mich.; E. E. Atyeo, Belleville, Mich. ;
C. E. Marvin, Howell, Mich. ; Roy Hinkley, Fen-
ton, Mich. ; O. H. Lutz, Ann Arbor, Mich. ; Fred.
Grimm, Mount Clemens, Mich.

Bloomstrom, jeweler and well-known
Mich., died suddenly at his
Deceased was thirty-

Dealers now anticipate the largest fall and holi-
day business in years, and they are laying in stock

in accordance with those views. A\ll lines of trade
are active, especially the steel trade, which is in-
creasing by leaps and bounds. There is apparently
nothing to stop the wave of prosperity for another
year. The jewelers have no complaint over the
trade for the year so far, and with three of the
best months to come, there is a general feeling of
confidence in the future. The next two weeks will
see great numbers of out-of-town buyers among
the. jobbing houses, and it is safe to say that there
will be liberal buying by the jewelers who read the
signs of the times.

A. T. Hubbard, of Cowell & Hubbard Co., is
in the East on a tour of the markets.

Sidney Ball, of the Webb C. Ball Co., has been
in Chicago on business for his firm. The Ball com-
pany had hoped to be in their new building in time
for the holiday trade, but as the structural iron
workers are still on a strike, there has been noth-
ing done on the building for over two months.

J. P. Johnston and Jack Hubbard, the opti-
cians in the Colonial Arcade, have decided to
branch out in their optical trade, and have opened
a branch office in Akron, Ohio, which will be in
charge of Mr. Hubbard. The Akron office will be
opened October Ist.

W. D. McVitty, of Hastings, Florida, was in
town last month renewing old acquaintances. He
will join the staff of the Cowell & Hubbard Com-
pany for the next three months, and then return to
his potato farm, which has proved to be a success-
ful venture.

Geo. Tipling, the diamond salesman for Sigler
Bros. Company, is mourning the loss by death of
his aged mother.

F. B. Guyon, for some years past with the
Lewis Jewelry Company, has resigned.

Herbert W. Burdick, of the Bowler & Bur-
dick Company, had an exciting time on Lake
Superior during the fierce storms which swept
the lakes two weeks ago. Mr. Burdick was with a
party of friends on one of the big freighters, and
the experience is not one that he will care to repeat.

K EB. YS. 'F..0-N_E

1728 g

Walter Miller has returned from his first fall
trip and reports an unusual gocd trade. He will
leave again in a few days.

C. F. Keim, secretary of the Scribner & Loehr
Company, has gone to the Adirondacks with his
wife for a short trip.

Harry Rickesheiser, formerly with Abrecht,
the engraver, has joined the engraving force of the
Cowell & Hubbard Company.

A. D. Weed has resigned from the Burt
Ramsay Company, and gone with the Lewis Jewelry
Company, in the Colonial Arcade.

W. J. Eroe, New Castle, Pa., was in town last
month buying an entire new stock of goods for his
new store, which he will open in about two weeks.
John A. Hirt accompanied Mr. Eroe and will be
associated with him in his new venture. Mr. Hirt
has just returned from Detroit, where he took a
post-graduate course in optics from Dr. Owen, the
well-known oculist.

Through the courtesy of Mr. Cobb, superin-
tendent of the Ball Watch Factory, the novelty
watch recently made for L. F. Loree, the well-
known railroad manager, was shown to your corres
pondent. The watch is about one inch wide and
about three inches long, and has an oval crystal
similar to a minature case, showing hour and
minute dial above and seconds dial below.

Richard O. Carter, of New London, Ohio, has
joined the Burt Ramsay store in the Schofield
Building.

H. M. Wollam, 237 East Main Street, Galion,

Ohio, is a new recruit in the jewelry business in
that town.
Chas. Haimes, the watchmaker for A. E.

Oyster, Alliance, Ohio, for the past few years, has
resigned and taken a position with F. R. Mont-
gomery, Sandusky, Ohio,

Joe. Schuster, the jeweler, of 997 Pearl Street
this city, returned lately from a month’s sojourn at
Mount Clemens, Mich., much improved in health.

A. C. Collins, of this city, has moved in a new
and commodious store, and has equipped it with
handsome fixtures.

Timely discovery prevented the jewelry store
of M. Meckes, 535 Pearl Street, this city, from
whole or partial destruction by fire recently. One
of the workmen had soldered a ring on a piece of
charcoal and laid it in a press at closing time.
At 2 A.M. the store was found to be full of smoke.
The fire originated in the press, but was extin-
guished before serious damage had been done.

James Logan, 1139 St. Clair Street, recently
returned to business much improved in health,
having enjoyed a pleasant vacation.

The youngest child of J. F. Goodfellow, a
local jeweler, met with a serious accident recently,
having been bitten by a vicious dog. Itis hoped,
however, that the little sufferer will recover from
the effects of the mishap without serious conse-
quences.

Mr. Younglove, of Austin & Younglove, Green
Springs, was in town last month. The firm are
adding new fixtures to their store.

C. M. Wilson and wife, Salem, Ohio, stopped off
on their way home from a fishing trip in Michigan.

Among the Ohio jewelers here last month
were the following: A. E. Kintner, Painesville ;
C. E. Whitaker, Clyde; Harnes & Allen, Napol-
eon; D. Leonheiser, Huron; O. G. Carter, New
London; F. R. Montgomery, Sandusky ; C. Straus-
meyer, Fremont; W. H. Hoyle, Sidney; W. G.
Smith, Youngstown ; A. E. Oyster, Alliance; J. C.
Joss, New Philadelphia ; Harry Downs, Bellevue ;
L. J. Goddard, Ravenna; H. S. Sumner, Akron;
A. Washburn, Medina; H. C. Rogers, Seville.

Geo. W. Smith & Co.

INCORPORATED

07-19 Powelton Avenue
SOOTALED

Philadelphia

111 Fifth Avenue, New York City

Catalogue on request

HIGHEST AWARDS

LOUISIANA PURCHASE EXPOSITION

“The Alethea”

PATENT APPLIED FOR

The desideratum long sought by bracelet manufacturers
combining

ELEGANCE OF DESIGN
SIMPLICITY OF OPERATION and
STRENGTH OF CONSTRUCTION

MANUFACTURED BY

THE WOLCOTT MFG. CO., 71 Peck st., Providence, RI.

Cut reduced 31% times

This is our FAMOUS

“SELWELL ASSORTMENT”

OF SILVER ALUMINUM NOVELTIES

and the best-selling souvenir assortment put out this year at

$10.50

This assortment consists of ONE GROSS of twelve articles, one dozen of

each.
article.

THE E. A. FARGO COMPANY, Taunton, Mass.

Hand-painted letters in two colors, with the name of your town on each
SAME ASSORTMENT, NOT LETTERED, $9.00

SMALL INVESTMENT—BIG PROFIT

Send for FREE SAMPLE lettered with your town

October, 1905

A petition in involuntary bankruptcy has been
filed against Klein Bros. Co., 51 Maiden Lane,
New York, by A. Roseman. Robert G. Perry has
been appointed temporary receiver under bond of

He.

$3500.

J. C. Pilcher, who has succeeded Geo. E.
Boyer in the jewelry business at Wellsville, Mo.,
prides himself upon the fact that he has been con-
tinuously a reader of THE KEYSTONE since it was
first published.

Harry E. Tilghman, the jeweler, of 610 Main
Street, Crisfield, Md., has lately been ona trip to
the East. Among the places of interest visited was
the factory of The Keystone Watch Case Co.,
Philadelphia, Pa.

James A. Montgomery, president of Montgom-
ery Bros., Los Angeles, Cal. one of the largest
jewelry firms on the Pacific Coast, is on a purchas-
ing tour in the Eastern markets. He will make a
five-weeks’ sojourn, most of which will be spent in
New York City and Providence.

S. Frackman, manufacturing jeweler, 51 Maiden
Lane, New York, has issued an interesting 1905-6
catalogue and price-list of rings, links, buttons,
pendants, etc. It is printed on enameled paper in
black ink and abundantly illustrated. Each article
shown is numbered and appended to the book is a
price-list in which these numbers serve to facilitate
reference.

As we continue to receive letters from jewelers
requesting information as to the present where-
abouts of the Courvoisier, Wilcox Mfg. Co., we
have to inform those interested that this company
has passed out of existence. Its affairs were placed
in the hands of a receiver and closed out some
months ago, the plant and machinery having been
finally disposed of at public auction.

A. & R. Bergman, wholesale jewelers, for-
merly located at 238 Main Street, Buffalo, N. Y.,
are now established at 181 Main Street, a much
more desirable location for the firm’s business.
The premises at the new address were altered to
suit requirements, a new front having been in-
stalled and the interior handsomely decorated.
The store is brilliantly lighted by electricity.

Murphy & Greene have succeeded G. E.
Wheelhouse Co., as manufacturing and retail
jewelers, at 2 Blandina Street, Utica, N. Y. The
partners in the new firm are T. F. Murphy and
H. M. Greene, both of whom had been for many
years with the firm which they have succeeded.
Thus they have had an abundance of practical ex-
perience, and as they are business men of the pro-
gressive type their new enterprise should prove a
success.

Schutt & Peterson have purchased and will
continue the wholesale jewelry business hitherto
conducted by Nicholas Kos, 137 Genessee Street,
Buffalo, N. Y. The partners in the new firm are
Louis Schutt, who for thirteen years was with
Jeweler Kos, the erstwhile proprietor, and Fred.
Peterson, formerly in the retail jewelry business at
1227 Jefferson Street, Buffalo. Both partners are
therefore well known locally, and this with their
practical experience in the trade should conduce to
the success of their enterprise.

Tr oH EB

Miss Bertha Louise Blickle, daughter of Jeweler
J. B. Blickle, of Rochester, Minn., was married on
Tuesday, September rgth, to George Smith Han-
non. THE KEYSTONE tenders felicitations.

The Whiting Mfg. Co. are preparing to move
into the big building at the corner of Nineteenth
and Broadway, recently vacated by the Gorham
Mfg. Co. The Whiting Co. will occupy the four
or five lower floors, which will give them about
double the space they now have in their old quar-
ters at Eighteenth and Broadway. The new
Jocation is an unusually good one, and especially
valuable through its former occupancy by the
Gorham Co.

Fire destroyed the interior of the factory of
the Anchor Silver Plate Co., of St. Paul, Minn.,-on
September 19th. The company which had attained
a position of considerable importance in the silver-
plate industry in the Northwest, was capitalized at
$150,000, had a total invested capital of $190,000
with $120,000 of insurance, and employed one
hundred and twenty-five people. The fire is
especially deplorable at this time, as the company
was working overtime, filling orders when the
conflagration forced a temporary suspension.

Geo. A. Clark & Son, an enterprising jewelry
firm, of Lorain, Ohio, recently secured for exhibi-
tion, upon furnishing bond for $11,000, the dia-
monds which had been in the possession of the
notorious Mrs. Chadwick. They consisted of a
diamond necklace containing 932 gems and valued
at $10,000 ; a tortoise-shell hair comb, set with 137
diamonds and said to be worth $1000. These were
displayed, in conjunction with some costly jewels
from the firm’s regular stock. They attracted
much attention and gave the firm wide publicity.

As some of the trade seem to be under the
impression that the M. S. Benedict Mfg. Co., of
East Syracuse, N. Y., have gone out of business,
we are requested to inform the trade that such is
not the case. The company is now being run by
the Syracuse Trust Company, as trustees. In fact,
the Benedict factories are running over-time in
order to keep up with the fall trade. The same
line as was formerly made is being manufactured,
and the full force of traveling salesmen are on the
road. The company is in a position to fill all
orders promptly, as in years past.

The F. H. Sadler Co., Attleboro, Mass., have
issued their 1906 catalogue, containing rich illustra-
tions and appropriate descriptions of the many
new and attractive styles of rings and other jewelry
manufactured by this firm. The book is printed
on enameled paper, in black ink, is well arranged
and should be found useful for reference. A hand-
some half-tone, showing a lady wearing a ‘‘Norma’’
bracelet made by the firm, accompanies the cata-
logue, and another interesting feature contained in
the book is the sample front cover of the retailer’s
‘‘Ring-Booklet,” issued free by the firm.

The Waltham Clock Co., Waltham, Mass., has
issued its 1905 catalogue, with detached price-list.
This catalogue is printed on enamel paper and
richly illustrated with half-tones of the many beau-
tiful timepieces manufactured by this company.
The type matter, chiefly in black ink, is tastefully
relieved by touches of green. A foreword, a talk
on regulators, marble clocks, banjo clocks and
other makes, inserted at the beginning of the sec-
tions devoted to these goods, constitutes the regu-
Jar reading matter. A pouch in the back cover
contains the price-list, together with a number of
sample pages.

KEYS TON EB

‘in practically all its phases.

17282

P. E. Kern, gold and silversmith, Skaguay,
Alaska, who is well acquainted with the journey
from Seattle to Skaguay, writes enthusiastically of
its wonders and natural beauties, which, he be-
lieves, need only be known to be appreciated. In
time, no doubt, and with the advance of com-
merce northwards, this rare country will become
a favored tourist route. Jeweler Kern says of it:
‘“The panorama from Seattle to Skaguay—the
sea and the mountains; the long, deep inlets with
their crystal waters, shading into the distant dark-
ness of surrounding heights; the great glaciers,
the long lingering twilights that separate the days
in the far North; the wild precipices of White Pass
and the mighty Yukon slipping down from between
its flower-strewn hills to the far-off sea—all in our
journey, have a varied grandeur and an abiding
charm which once beheld are not soon forgotten.’’

Improvements in Dialless Clocks

Quite a catchy novelty at the time of its intro-
duction to the trade was the ‘‘ Ever-Ready’’ Plato
clock, which has the distinction of being without
dial or hands. The manufacturers of this novelty,
the American Electrical Novelty and Manufacturing
Co., of New York, have now made such improve-
ments in construction and finish as make the new
clocks much more perfect as convenient, ornamental
and accurate timepieces. These clocks, as now
improved, would make a pleasing variety in the
holiday lines.

Book Notices

‘“The Gambler’’ is the expressive title of the
latest novel by Katherine Cecil Thurston, whose
fame as a novelist had already been made secure
by her previous thrilling story ‘“The Masquerader.”’
The new book is in every way up to the high
standard of its predecessor. Clodagh Asshlia, the
heroine of the tale, is a young Irish beauty, who
inherits from her father a fearless, impulsive, high-
spirited disposition and high sense of honor along
with a passion for gambling. The romance of her
life develops along passionate and dramatic lines,
verging upon a tragic climax in the culmination of
her love for Sir Walter Gore. Mrs. Thurston again
proves herself a born story-teller, who can hold
the reader’s attention with almost magic power. A
number of well-executed page illustrations add to
the interest of the book. It is published by Harper
& Brothers, New York, price $1.50.

‘Engraving Metals”’ is the title of a convenient
little volume of 160 pages published by David
McKay, Philadelphia, Pa., and containing a com-
prehensive digest of the information on engraving
metals by incision and corrosion, published from
time to time in Work, an English industrial
weekly. It has been compiled and edited by
Paul N. Hasluck, editor of that journal: and of
The Building World, and author of ‘*‘ Handy
Books for Handicrafts,’’ who has many similar
works to his credit. The book is divided into ten
chapters, which deal with the subject of engraving
It contains 115 illus-
trations, showing the various articles in the en-
graver’s outfit and numerous examples of mono-
gram work. It may be obtained from this office
for the publisher’s price, 50 cents.

From the same publisher comes ‘‘ Electro-
Plating,’ a book similar to the foregoing in size
and compiled by Editor Hasluck from practically
the same source. A number of articles by another
well-known English technical writer have, how-
ever, been incorporated in the text. All electro-
plating processes are covered by this book in
regular order, beginning with the tanks, vats and
and other apparatus required, then dealing in turn
with batteries, dynamos and electrical accessories,
preparing and finishing appliances—silver, copper,
gold, nickel and cycle-plating and finishing pro-
cesses—the final chapter being on electro-plating
with various metals and alloys. The book con-
tains seventy-seven illustrations, chiefly represent-
ing the devices used in electro-plating operations,
and all admirably elucidative of the text. It may
be obtained from this office on receipt of the pub- -
lisher’s price, 50 cents.

wy)

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Ay

ay ho i Sef) \ hy (cy | a =; rn \ ARRAY 7 ry

siete
PAN WI es YW WW 0 «tee 4 A

Pate Y amp L~

It will be well for the jewelers to remember during the busy season
that we handle watches only. In this line you can rely on us at all
seasons and in all emergencies. We have at all times the right kind of
stock, and in such quantity as permits the promptest filling of orders.
Our supplies and system are such as make delay or disappointment
practically impossible. We make a specialty of mail orders. A letter

will be given the same attention as yourself.

Ohio Flint Glass Company

LANCASTER, OHIO

E desire to call the attention of the Jewelry Trade to a line
of goods which is made by a different process from the ordi-

$452
Pet
7.7

nary methods used for producing a high-grade line of goods. We call
this line the CONCORD, and this name is covered by trade-mark.
We make it in a large variety of goods, and samples will be fur-
nished at the regular prices. I[llustrated catalogue will also be mailed,
with complete price-list to cover it.
The line is well worthy of attention, and the goods are without
competition, both in quality and in prices.

Landis School of Engraving

FALL COURSE

WE RETURN ALL REPAIR WORK
" SAME DAY AS RECEIVED.

SEND IN YOUR NEXT PACKAGE
AND OPEN AN ACCOUNT WITH US.

10:59 Seventh St
TAIN

AWW ‘M. L. Landis Write us, and we will give you an idea of what you could
Preprietor and Instructor accomplish by taking a Course with us.

M. Le LANDIS, 119 Koch Avenue, Detroit, Mich.

WRITE US AT ONCE. If you wish to take a Course
this Fall, please write us and we will assign and hold a place
for you.

We do not accept more than twelve pupils at one time,
devoting our entire time to their personal Instruction and
Advancement,

- C

Our methods are original and entirely new. We are the
founders of a New System in the Art of Cutting and Design-
ing, which enables a pupil, not endowed with artistic skill,

to learn to make perfect letters.

The Northwest is happy and
crops have all been safely housed
and THE KEYSTONE’S predic-
tions have been fulfilled. The
actual reports of harvested grain even surpass our
estimate. The farmer is now busy with fall plowing
and taking advantage of every good day to get
things in shape for the winter. Hauling of grain
to market will begin early, money will circulate in
large quantities and the retail jeweler, anticipating
his share, is preparing his stock accordingly. Job-
bers report fall lines now complete and business
brisk. We have even heard the remark made:
‘“We have done more business this year, so far,
than we did all of last year.’’ We hear no com-
plaints and all are enjoying good trade. Travelers
are jubilant and agree that never were they better
received by the trade than this year. Orders are
reported to be running far ahead of previous years.
All of which seems to indicate that 1905 will go on
record as a banner year.

O. H. Olson, formerly at Volga, Wis., but
more recently in Tennessee, has returned to the
Northwest and opened a store at Osceola, Wis.
He spent a few days in the Twin Cities buying his
stock.

O. D. Leidal, Fergus Falls, Minn., is mourning
the death of his twenty-four-year-old son, from
consumption.

W. B. Dean, Jr., for the past two years with
D. G. Lockwood, Fort Benton, Mont., has suc-
ceeded W. J. Iliffe, Forsythe, Mont.

George W. Hauenstein, Red Wing, Minn., met
death by drowning, in view of several hundred
people, on August 31st. Mr. Hauenstein was stand-
ing ina rowboat watching a yacht race, when his boat
was capsized by a wave. He was fifty-five years
old, and one of the most prominent jewelers in the
city. He leaves a wife and three grown children
to mourn his sad end.

Sischo & Beard, St. Paul, have just issued a
thirty-six-page supplement to their tool and material
catalogue, and expect to have their jewelry supple-
ment out this month. Both are typical of this
popular and progressive Northwestern house. They
will be sent to any jeweler, on request.

W. A. Funk, of F. Willman, Stillwater, Minn.,
spent his vaction visiting the old folks at Mankato,

A Wave of
Prosperity

Minn.

Albert J. Krueger has repurchased his old busi-
ness at North Branch, Minn., from his brother,
W. A. Krueger.

A. J. Simpson, one of Minnesota’s prominent
optemetrists, was married at Redwood Falls, Minn.,
on September 5th.

W. Harry Palmer, Mankato, Minn., who died
last month, was the father of A. E. Palmer, Grand
Forks, N. Dak., and of W. E. Palmer, Mankato,
both prominent jewelers, who have the sympathy
of their friends in the trade.

It is reported that John Rosendahl, Mabel,
Minn., has bought out J. C. Hub & Co., Mapleton,
Minn. Mr. Hub has been in poor health for almost
a year, and will rest up for a while.

J. N. Kunkel, New Rockford, N. Dak., is the
latest Northwestern jeweler to hang up the Jewelers’
Security Alliance sign. They are getting very
common in this section but should be more so, as
there is no better or cheaper insurance available.

Tee

Walman & Co. have started a new jewelry and
optical business at Detroit, Minn. J. A. L. Walman,
of the firm, spent two weeks lately in the Twin
Cities, buying stock and fixtures.

F. M. Nelson, formerly with I. S. Phippeny &
Co., Manistique, Mich., is now at the bench for
C. Overby, Rice Lake, Wis.

C. A. Hoffman, Minneapolis, was successful in
his competition with Eastern houses, and has re-
ceived the contract to supply Uncle Sam’s officers,
at Fort Snelling, with binocular field glasses.

L. A. Freeman, the progressive jeweler, of
Cloquet, Minn., has added some new fixtures to
his store room.

L.. 'G. Howatt: ot -€. <A; Swanson <& Co:,
Superior, Wis., recently passed through the Twin
Cities on his way to Portland, where he will visit
the exposition. |

C. H. Nesbitt has succeeded C. H. Nesbitt &
Co., Harvey, N. Dak.

A. R. Butler has opened a new jewelry store
at Sanborn, Minn.

M. A. Allen spent several days in the Twin
Cities lately, buying stock for his new store at
Mandan, N. Dak.

The factory of the Anchor Silver Plate Co.,
St. Paul, Minn., was completely destroyed by fire on
September 19th. The company estimate their loss
at $60,000. It was insured for $12,000. This comes
at a very bad time of the year for the firm. The
factory was being worked overtime for more thana
month, to keep up with orders. On the night of
the fire worked stopped at 10 o’clock. The night
watchman discovered the fire one hour later. It
seemed to spread all over atonce. As the business
was in a very prosperous condition, there is no
doubt that the factory will be rebuilt at once, and
business resumed on a better scale than ever.

C. W. Logan, formerly in business at Clara
City, Minn., has bought out Chris Rygh, at Her-
man, Minn.

E. S. Halstead has begun business at Sarles,
N. Dak.

Ernest L. Hardenberg, lately with M. Hend-
rickson Jewelry Co., Duluth, Minn., has started in
business for himself at 302 E. Superior Street, in
that city.

F, W. Kinnoin, for the past two years with
A. L. Haman & Co., St. Paul, is now with O. H.
Arosin, of that city.

I. M. Radabaugh, Hastings, Minn., has pur-
chased a store building, has had it remodeled and
is now ready for business therein.

W. J. Iliffe, recently at Forsythe, Mont., has
moved to Dickinson, N. Dak.

The Twin City Watchmaking and Engraving
College has opened for business at 710 Nicollet
Avenue, Minnapolis.

Isaac Mann, Shelden, Iowa, is enjoying a trip
to the Coast. Mr. Mann expects to be gone about
six weeks.

C.E. Barker, of Peterson, Iowa, spent a few days
in Chicago at the beginning of September, making
some purchases for fall trade. He also took occa-
sion to visit his native place near Sheridan, Ind.,
where his father and several other relatives still
live. Jeweler Barker reports that this year corn in
his section is exceptionally good and all other
crops better than they have been for some years
past. People have plenty of money, he adds, and
businessis good. This, surely, isa very satisfactory
state of things and we wish the jewelers well of it.

The State Fair brought in a goodly number of
visitors to Twin City jobbers, who were pleased to
renew the many old acquaintances and welcome
the new ones. Among the visitors THE KEYSTONE

KE ¥Y Ss Tf ON &

1728 &

noticed were: Edw. Pelant, Lonsdale, Minn.;
Herman Hoch, Alma, Wis.; Herman Osterberg,
Superior, Wis.; Wm. F. Baier, Granite Falls, Minn.;
R. M. Horr, Prentice, Wis.; Wm. F. Hurst, Duluth,
Minn.; A. L. Freeman, Cloquet, Minn.; Carl W.
Slocum, Cando, N. Dak.; J. F. Ahearn, Melrose,
Minn.; F. K. Randall, Phillipo, Wis.; Jack Boerner,
Duluth, Minn.; Hans J. Heram, Elbow Lake, Minn.;
Phillip Perlman, Washburn, Wis.; I.M. Radabaugh,
Hastings, Minn.; H. M. Hitchcock, Redwood Falls,
Minn.; Mr. Stacey, of Crane Bros., Lake City, Minn. ;
F. W. Zimmerman, Staples, Minn.; R. H. McEwen,
Stewart, Minn.; W. M. Thorston, Kensal, N. Dak.;
C. L. Barnett, Frederick, Wis.; Mark Rideout,
Rushford, Minn.; Mr. and Mrs. M. A. Brann, Fred-
erick, Wis.; S. C. Hone, Osceola, Wis.: Mr. and
Mrs. E. A. Arhart, Lisbon, N. Dak.; Geo. L.
Rochat, Ada, Minn.; E. H. Treiber, Scotland, S.
Dak.; A. S. Heimark, Battle Lake, Minn.; G. M.
Gazely, Arlington, S. Dak.; J. F. Brown, Enderlin,
N. Dak.; R. Sloan, Ironwood, Mich.; H. T. Hol-
verson, Alexandria, Minn.; Mr. and Mrs. C. H.
Nerbovig, Mankato, Minn.; D. W. Smith, Pipe-
stone, Minn.; J. M. Chalmers, Lake City, Minn.;
O. J. Temason, Ostrander, Minn.; O. M. Steven-
son, Fountain City, Minn.; H. O. Schlender, Spring-
field, Minn.; G. A. Heckel, Oakes, N. Dak.; C. E.
Peterson, Pepin, Wis.;C.A. Westerbaum, St. James,
Minn.; L. J. Korstad, Zumbrota, Minn.; C. A.
Manning, Lisimore, N. Dak.; Edward Dawson,
Winona, Minn.: Mr. Williams, Cannon Falls, Minn.;
Geo. K. Monro, Grand Forks, N. Dak.; H. Stewart
McLean, Mitchell, S. Dak.; A. C. Peterson, Gibbon,
Minn.; Archie Stevenson, Madelia, Minn.; Miss
Lillie, Spring Valley, Wis.; J. A. Clough, Spring
Valley, Wis.; S. Milavetz, Virginia, Minn.; Chas.
W. Heidbrink, Ellsworth, Wis.; Fred. Soderberg,
Braham, Minn.; J. W. Grainger, Rochester, Minn.;
O. P. Yaeger, Riceville, Iowa; I. R. Bunker,
Superior, Wis.; T. Jacobson, Colfax, Wis.; J.
Henry Eggers, Plainview, Minn.; E. P. Sundberg,
Red Wing, Minn.; J. J. Palmer, Wells, Minn.;
Albert J. Krueger, North Branch, Minn.; E. E. Gay-
lord, Brookings, 5. Dak.; J. W. Brown, Ortonville,
Minn.; Fred. Willman, Stillwater, Minn.; W. G.
Gould, Glencoe, Minn.; Orville L. Mellin, Red
Wing, Minn.; Fred. Giebler, Norwood, Minn.; Mr.
and Mrs. F. C. Robins, Benson, Minn.; O. H.
Olson, Osceola, Wis.; N. A. Allen, Mandan, N.
Dak.; L. G. Howatt, Superior, Wis.; Wm. Lenz,
Osakis, Minn.; Chas. Monroe, Hutchinson, Minn.;
R, G. Ingraham, Menomonie, Wis.; C. M. Leffing-
well, Little Falls, Minn.; F. W. Harper, Renville,
Minn.; E. C. Roberts, Red Wing, Minn.; F. H.
Straub, Fergus Falls, Minn.; C. O. Querna, Madi-
son, Minn.; H. Princen, Minneota, Minn.; L. T.
Dillon, Litchfield, Minn.; G. W. Dillon, Manley,
Iowa; Albert L. Mealy, Delano, Minn.; E. P.
Long, St. Cloud, Minn.; Wm. Krohn, Annandale,
Minn.; C. O. Peterson, Lowry, Minn.; C. W. Wick,
Clark, S. Dak.; Chas. Wesalie, Waconia, Minn.;
M. G. Van Loan, Spring Valley, Minn.; W. S.
Blake, Duluth, Minn.; R. S. Swarthout, Pine Island,
Minn.; G. Chellin, Cassell, Minn.; G. A. Lacey,
Wahpeton, N. Dak.; J. L. Egleston, Wadena,
Minn.> A. ©. Banks, Michigan, N. Dak: Tr. J.
Thompson, Barron, Wis.; E. E. Wheeler, Cando,
N. Dak.; C. Nygaard, Brownton, Mich.; E. J.
Steuerwold, Two Harbors, Minn.; H. H. Buck,
Goodhue, Minn.; A. G. Rost, St. Peter, Minn.

‘*The Keystone is already of such a high stan-
dard that we can think of no way to improve tt.
Articles interested in: By gum! all of them.’
—Wilmer D. Nelson Co., Jewelers, Ferre,
South Dakota.

EZ20:L

The Continuous Advance
in Diamond Prices

and the plethoric prosperity make Diamonds the
safest of all stock to purchase. You simply cant
over-buy. The goods will increase in value even in
the show case, and the left-overs from your big holi-
day sales may be even more valuable the day after
Christmas than they are to-day.

[ Our Diamond Stock :
oe Le the Trade Ideal

es,

It is so easy to make from it the selections that suit,
and you know beforehand that the prices are the
best. There are qualities in diamonds as in other
goods. Our stock comprises only such goods as we

and you can handle with safety as well as profit.
Mail orders given prompt attention.

—<$___..

C. HBT TS ae.

Columbus Memorial Building CHICAGO

October, 1905 T EE

° = ° S

Silver Services for U.S.

Warships

HE presentation of costly silver services to the United States

warships by the States and cities after which they are named,

was a happy idea from many points of view. The patriotic
gift creates a bond of union and mutual interest and pride between
the State or city and its fighting namesake and confers a benefit on
the jewelry trade by the very material stimulus it gives to artistic
designing. Some thirty of these presentations have already been
made. and the aggregate expenditure would no doubt total be-
tween $200,000 and $300,000. The competitive designing ensures
the highest degree of art craftsmanship, and we doubt whether
any more beautiful collection of silverware could be brought
together than the services which have already been presented to
the lucky warships.

A contract to furnish the silver service to be presented to the
battleship MVeérsaska was recently granted to the Reichenberg-
Smith Co., of Omaha. This service, which will be one of the
most artistic yet made, will consist of a centerpiece, loving cup,
punch bowl, punch ladle, silver waiter and eighteen silver goblets.
The total weight of the service will be 1300 ounces and the cost
$3000. This exquisite service, two pieces of which are here shown,
is) being made by J. E. Caldwell & Co., of Philadelphia, Pa., and is
a marvel of artistic and appropriate designing. This firm, it will
be remembered, was also the successful competitor for the services
which were presented to the Jowa, Kentucky and Pennsylvania.

The centerpiece of the Nedraska service here shown is 35
inches and its height is 21 inches. The lights have silver candle
shades with the seal of the navy and the seal of the State etched
on them. A picture of the Nedéraska is etched on the central panel, while at
one side is an etching of the Union Pacific bridge at Omaha, indicating the
first overland route to the West, and on the opposite side a scene on the
Platte River. On the corresponding panels of the reverse are etchings of
the capitol building with a picture of the stock yards at South Omaha on one
side and a herd of cattle on the other. Commingled with the etchings is
relief work showing the chief products of the State, including corn, wheat
and cattle. An eagle holds in its talons the golden rod, the State flower, and
the laurel branch, indicating victory. Seaweed is introduced in connection
with a shell effect, indicating the nautical purposes of the objects. The
centerpiece weighs 500 ounces. The loving cup or flower vase shown

Centerpiece of Silver Service to be Presented to the United States Battleship Nebraska

Ke YS TF oO WN E&

: ants eS _
REE Tt RS oe

Punch Bowl and Ladle of Nebraska Silver Seryice

in the centerpiece may be used separately from the piece. It is 12 inches in
height and has dolphin handles, with shell border, An Indian is etched on
one side and on the other the head of a buffalo. It weighs 100 ounces.

The punch bowl, illustrated on this page, is 21 inches in height and 16
inches in diameter, interior measurement, and weighs 300 ounces. It is plated
with gold on the inside and its handles are surmounted with full modeled
eagles. The seals of the State and navy, surrounded by the State flower,
adorn either side of the bowl. The three massive feet on which it stands
represent the head, shoulders and forefeet of buffalos, and between these
feet are modeled, in relief, a number of animals’ heads. The etchings on
the bowl include a representation of the Vedvaska in the center and at one
side a picture of a
sod house, one of
the cabins of the
early settlers; the
prairie schooner is
also shown. Inthe
center of the ob-
verse side is the
inscription, at one
side of which is a
stage coach and at
the other a modern
train of steam cars.
The punch ladle is
18 inches long and
weighs 18 ounces.

The function of
the silver waiter is
to hold the punch
bowl and goblets.
The center of the
plate contains an
etching of the bat-
tleship. The waiter
has a shell border
with entwined dol-
phin handles and
also the seals of the
State and navy,
while on the side a
bear’s head, in re-
lief, is shown. The
waiter weighs 260
ounces.

1728

NOW READY

Our new fall Catalogue—the most complete and
important we have ever issued—will be ready by the
time you can get a request for same back to us.

We do not send it broadcast in the trade, but if any reader of
Tue Keystone who isan established jeweler in our trade territory
will ask us for a copy (mentioning Ture Keystone), one will be
sent by first express or mail prepaid.

You ought not to do your fall and holiday buying without it,
for it lists, describes and illustrates the most complete, up-to-date
line of Diamonds, Watches, Jewelry and Quick-Selling Wares
and Novelties in the country.

We do not believe any retail jeweler can spend even ten
minutes scanning this new Catalogue of ours without feeling that
it is a pretty good book to have around.

You will find that it is built for the use of busy buyers who
put a value on their time as well as on low prices.

There can be no question but that the jeweler who fails to get
and study this issue of our Catalogue will miss some of the lowest
prices and best values of the season.

You are welcome to a copy, free, if you will write for it.

Shall we send you one?

NORRIS, ALISTER G CO.

Wholesalers in Everything Needed by Jewelers
134-136 Wabash Avenue, CHICAGO

October, 1905

USS en ae eS,
Death of Joseph M. Bates

Joseph M. Bates, head of the well-known firm
of Bates & Bacon, Attleboro,. Mass., and one of
the leading members of the jewelry trade in America,
died at Cottage City, Mass., on Thursday, Septem-
ber 7th, aged seventy-two years. His death was
the result of a complication of diseases. One week
prior to it he went Cottage City, where, with the
reviving air of the sea, undisturbed rest and
complete relaxation from the tension of business
responsibility, it was hoped he would recover.
At one time it seemed as if the hope would be
realized, but a reaction set in which terminated
fatally.

From boyhood Mr. Bates led a life of continu-
ous activity. He was born in Wickford, R. I., and
in 1852 went to learn the jewelry business in the
factory of Reynolds, Dodge & Co., Providence.
He afterwards served as a foreman for Wightman
& Hough Co.,and his first step toward a proprietor-
ship was to secure an interest in Skinner, Viall &

Joseph M. Bates

Co., Attleboro. This he subsequently disposed
of, and the next firm with which he connected
himself was the first to bear his name, to-wit,
Bates, Capron & Williams, Attleboro Falls. After
two more years he disposed of this interest and went
into business on his own account in Attleboro.

It was in 1866 that he was joined in partner-
ship by George M. Bacon, who died a few years
ago, and it was then that the widely-known firm-
name of Bates & Bacon was assumed. In 1881 the
concern added the making of watch cases to their
regular productive activities, but within compara-
tively recent years this interest was sold to the
Philadelphia Watch Case Co., Riverside, N. J.,
and the plant moved to that place. Coincidently
Mr. Bates purchased the plant and chainmaking
business of G. A. Dean & Co., considerably
enlarged the scope of its activities and conducted
it for some time as the G, A. Dean Co., but the
name of Bates & Bacon was subsequently resumed.
In 1898 the Bates & Bacon plant was visited by
a severe fire, in which a new factory erected by Mr.
Bates fourteen years previously was burned, to-
gether with the shops of seventeen other concerns.
Nothing daunted by his considerable loss, deceased
built a temporary factory on County Street and
followed soon after with a larger factory, of which
he occupied one entire floor. The partnership
between Messrs. Bates & Bacon was dissolved in
May, 1890, and Mr. Bates, with the assistance of
his son, Charles R. Bates, continued the business.
In all he owned five of the factory buildings de-
voted to the iewelry industry in Attleboro, and

‘Wel Ee

ee —

owned other real estate extensively. Another
notable achievement to his credit was the erection
of the Attleboro Opera House, which bears his
name.

For thirty-three years before his death he had
been president of the First National Bank, of Attle-
boro ; he had also been president of the Attleboro
Steam and Electric Co., and was interested in
other laudable enterprises. His death, therefore,
is a distinct loss to the community in which he
lived and which he served so long and so substan-
tially. The survivors are a widow and two sons,
Frank M. and Charles R. Bates, the latter of whom
was associated with his father in the firm of Bates
& Bacon, and is now in charge of the concern.

Age of Invention

The inventive genius of Americans in these
modern days appears to be aimed more generally
along the lines of transportation than any other
field of activity, and the patents applied for and
granted on automobile and steam-power vehicles
exceed all previous records.

The patent office has no statistics of the num-
ber of patents on any one subject, but those who
have been working on the files of the office for
years tell of tendencies along certain lines of
activity. For instance, in 1896, at the height of the
bicycle craze, when, instead of the usual five exam-
iners in a division, thirteen were required to do the
work. Now one attends to bicycles and does other
work besides. The bicycle has been supplanted
by the automobile, a large number of patents for
new developments of which are constantly being
filed under classifications of vehicles, motive-
power machines, and steam and gas engines. The
number is on the increase every week.

The desire of the human family to imitate the
birds and fly through the air is shown by the num-
ber of patents on that kind of invention. Only
five or six a month appear at the present time, but
this division is looked upon as sure of growth.
The inventions in transportation appliances con-
tinue to hold the palm and lead them all. Sixty-
eight patents of this sort were filed in one week,
and despite the fact that the railroad has reached a
very high state of efficiency, the work of inventors
continues. In general machinery the steam turbine
is being developed especially for use on the big
battleships, one having been ordered for the big-
gest battleship in the world, which is to be built by
the British govenment. Pneumatic tools cause an
increasing number of patents.

On munitions of war the experts who have
been examining patents for a decade past have
noticed that there is little that is practically new, and
that guns are merely being developed to greater
efficiency along the same lines. New devices for
sighting, which make allowance for so slight a
factor as the humidity of the atmosphere, are
frequently filed.

Discovery of a Lost Art

Among the many secret processes of porcelain
manufacturing and decorating, which were guarded
so zealously by the Chinese for centuries, and which
in time even they ceased to excel in, none was so
sought after by the European manufacturers to dis-
cover, as their beautiful ruby red glazes, known as
‘‘Sang de Boeuf,’’ ‘‘Rouge Flambé,” ‘‘ Peach
Blow’”’ and ‘‘ Haricot;’’ the first of these being,
as its name denotes, a wonderfully rich ruby or
blood red, while the others were varieties of the

KEYS TT ON E 1728 0

same color, blended with yellow, or streaked or
mottled with blue, purple, gray or green.

The museums of Europe are rich in choice
specimens of these exquisite chemical curios of
ancient Chinese manufacture, as are many well-
known private collections, notably the Rothschild
collection, of London, and the famous Walters
collection, of Baltimore ; but the Chinese have long
since ceased to produce anything to compare with
these gems of the Kang-Si Dynasty.

All that was known of the coloring matter was
that it was some form of oxide of copper, and that
to obtain these glorious reds the porcelain had to
be fired ina reducing atmosphere. The difficulty
which most of the European manufacturers had to
contend with was their paste or porcelain, as well
as their glazes and firing, were so different to those
of the Chinese as to afford them little help toward
the solution of the problem.

Messrs. Doulton & Co., of Burslem, England,
however, have at last solved the difficulty, and
practically discoverd this long-lost art, after two
years of experimenting, fraught with many failures
and disappointments. This experimental depart-
ment was placed in the hands of a rising young
ceramic chemist, Cuthbert Bailey, son of John C.
Bailey, managing director of Messrs. Doulton &
Co., and after study and watchfulness and the
chemical examination and analysis of numberless
specimens, fired at various temperatures, treated in
various ways, and the building and rebuilding of
special kilns, his efforts were crowned with success;
and he is now turning out specimens of these myste-
rious glazes with all the various combinations of
color effects.

Artistic Engraving for High-Grade
Goods

It is conceded that the bulk of the demand this
season will be for the highest-grade goods.

And this means a demand for high-grade en-
graving.

Who wants a rich piece of silverware disfigured
by a crude, scratchy monogram?

Our people have outgrown the amateurish let-
tering of a decade ago, and can now appreciate
ornamental cyphers and artistic workmanship.

And this is what they insist on.

Knowing this, are you prepared for it ?

RS
o

The fundamental preparation is a copy of the
world-famed compilation ‘‘ Hornikel’s Engravers’
Text Book,” a veritable gold mine for the letter
engraver.

_ There’s art, genius and skill of the rarest kind
in every letter, every monogram, every inscription.
The contents comprise :

Plain and Fancy Ornamented Cyphers.
Ribbon, Drop and Block Monograms for
watches, lockets, spoons, trays, tea sets, cigarette
and match cases, loving, prize and presentation cups.
Monograms and Initials for seal rings and fobs.
Monograms, Inscriptions, etc., etched on Silver.

_ No jeweler could see this book and be without
it. A copy will be sent postpaid to any part of the
world on receipt of price, $6.00 (£1 5s.)

For sale by THE KEYSTONE
19th and Brown Streets, Philadelphia, Pa.
Room 1201 Heyworth Building, Chicago.
—Adv.

1728p

THE B. A. & CO. 1906 CATALOGUE

Our new 840-page Catalogue will be sent out
this month. Our Catalogue has long been the
standard book among the trade——it has sold
more goods than any other book published.
A jeweler that knows our book, knows that
it is an asset of great value——and it goes to
established jewelers only. Be familiar with our
1906 Catalogue and make use of it. Our
large business and years of experience enable
us to fill all orders to the satisfaction of our

customers.

BEN]. ALLEN & CO.
Silversmiths’ Building
Chicago, III.

October, 1905 LE EE

The trade are invited to send us reltable ttems of
news for this department

Arkansas

The business hitherto conducted at Merion by
E. P. Stewart under his own name, has been re-
moved to Hope, where it is now carried on on a
larger scale under the name of E. P. Stewart &
Bro.
Connecticut

Peter J. Donnelly, formerly with the A. R.
Vanderbilt Jewelry Co., Amsterdam, N. Y., has
purchased the jewelry stock of N.S. Lincoln, at
Winsted.

Georgia

Fred. E. Vaissiere has purchased a store in
Rome, and is making extensive alterations and
improvements therein preparatory to opening in
the retail jewelry business.

Illinois

Having read the report of the robbery of
A. L. Griffin’s jewelry store and of other business
places at Potomac, as reported in the last issue
of THE KEySTONE, E. Jeanmairet, the jeweler-
optician, of Mt. Carroll, writes to inform us that
on the same night his store, a saloon, a restaurant
and a dry goods store in that town were burglar-
ized. The robbers, Jeweler Jeanmairet states, were
experienced, and took only the best class of goods.
He sustained a loss of several hundred dollars.

Indiana

R. A. Brown has removed his stock from
Gaston to Albany, and will continue in the jewelry
business in the last-named city.

Henry Vancleave has moved his jewelry stock
from Russellville to Ladoga, where he has a very
handsome and we!ll-appointed store, having leased
the K. of P. Building in that place, for three years.
He has installed new and modern fixtures and his
store measures 20 x 100 feet. He states that pros-
pects for future business are most favorable,

Iowa

J. H. Lepper, the Mason City jeweler, who
has long felt the need of more room for his busi-
ness, has secured larger quarters, having leased an
ample store room in the Willson Building, South
Main Street. These premises are being completely
overhauled, the floor lowered to the street level
and anew and modern front installed. He now
enjoys copious facilities for displaying his jewelry
and musical instrument lines. His optical depart-
ment is likewise roomy, well apportioned and
replete with modern refractive apparatus,

The partnership hitherto existing between
Jules Renaud and Emile F. Renaud, in the firm of
Jules Renaud & Son, Keokuk, has been dissolved,
Jules Renaud having retired. The business will be
continued by Emile F. Renaud, under the firm-
name of Jules Renaud’s Son. ‘This business change
marks the retirement of one of Keokuk’s business
patriarchs, Jules Renaud having been a resident
of Keokuk for forty years, during all of which
time he has been engaged in the jewelry business.
A local paper remarks of him: ‘‘ His business
operations have at all times been conducted upon
a standard which has established a lasting con-
fidence with the public in general, and the patrons
of the firm in particular.’’ And it adds: ‘* Emile
F. Renaud, while comparatively a young man, has
proven himself in every way capable to assume the
full responsibilities of sole proprietor of this thriv-
ing establishment, as he has been active manager
for the past fifteen years.”’

Kentucky

Robert N. Phipps, the well-known Fulton
jeweler, was married on October 4th, to Miss Irene

— ——_ — = ——— Stating

Gason, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William Charles
Gason, of Jackson, Tenn. THE KEYSTONE tenders
congratulations.

Louisiana

L. Jansen, 112 Bourbon Street, New Orleans,
recently enjoyed a steamer trip to New York City,
which combined business with pleasure. Since
Starting in business in New Orleans two years ago,
Jeweler Jansen has given continuous and active
attention to his enterprise, and consequently there
was an additional zest to the pleasure of his partial
relaxation.

Massachusetts

William H. Robinson, senior member of the
well-known jewelry firm of Robinson & Anderson,
375 Main Street, Worcester, died on Sunday, Sep-
tember 3d, in his sixty-ninth year. Mr. Robinson
was born at Amherst, and upon completing his
education, went to Knoxville, Tenn., where he
conducted a dry goods store for a few years. He
afterwards returned to New England, and opened
a gentlemen’s furnishing business in Boston. In
1868, recognizing the fine business prospects of
Worcester, he removed thereto and succeeded in
building up a valuable trade. In 1896, the firm
was incorporated under the name of the Robinson-
Hilton Co., but six years afterwards, upon the
application of Mr. Robinson, the corporation was
dissolved, and the business continued until Decem-
ber, 1904, by deceased alone. In the following
March there was another change, when with the
entrance of H. S. Anderson, the firm-name of
Robinson & Anderson was assumed. A widow,
three sons and two daughters survive Mr. Robinson.

Missouri

Culpepper & Dortch, who last March closed
out their business in Hazel, Ky., and removed to
Hayti, have succeeded in building up a desirable
trade in the last-named place.
watch inspectors for the ’Frisco Railroad.

New York
M. R. Dower, manufacturer of badges and
medals, who was located in the Meyers Building,
Syracuse, for twenty-four years, is now established
in the Bastable Building, where he has the advan-
tages of a more central situation, and has con-
siderably increased his facilities.

The business formerly conducted under the
name of William’ Icutz Co. yr Seneca Sree
Buffalo, (Miss A. M Davies, proprietoress), has
been succeeded to by the firm of Schnieder &
Davies, the respective interests of Miss Davies and
of A. Schnieder, who has hitherto conducted a
retail jewelry business at 96 Seneca Street, having
been consolidated at Miss Davies’ location, 71
Seneca Street. These premises have been occupied
as a jewelry store for twenty-two years, having
been originally opened by William G. Lutz, whose
death occurred some years ago. Miss Davies has
been connected with the store tor a number of
years.

M. L. Levine, 163 East Genessee Street,
Buffalo, has executed some notable alterations
and improvements in his store. The walls and
ceilings have been newly decorated and painted
and new cluster electric lights installed. The side
cases have been fitted with front bracket electric
lights, which lend considerable brilliancy to
Jeweler Levine’s handsome display of goods.

T. C. Tanke, 378 Main Street, corner of Eagle
Street, Buffalo, has made extensive alterations in
his store building, having installed on the Eagle
Street side new show windows and an entrance.
The interior has also been equipped with new and
modern fixtures and fine display facilities. The
second floor of this establishment is devoted to
clocks, bronzes, cut glass and art goods, and the
third used for manufacturing and repair shops.

Daniel C. Fischel, 2 George Street, Green
Island, is the inventor of a new artificial fuel which
he has named ‘‘coaline,’? and for which he has
applied for a patent. This invention seems to pos-
sess a special economic advantage from the fact
that it is made from garbage. A favorable private
test was made of its efficacy as a fuel in comparison
with a like quantity of anthracite coal. The Troy
Telegram says of it: ‘*The coaline is a black
solid. It can be made very hard or soft, also heavy
or light, It is of most use for steam purposes

K EY S$ TF. 0 NE

The firm are official’

1729

where steam is required to be raised in short time.
It will raise heat in a much shorter time than coal.
The reporter saw the material in the different
stages. Mr. Fischel had a small box containing a
light colored powder. ‘This was the refuse vegeta-
ble matter after it had been dried and ground.
Another box contained the pulverized slag. The
coaline had a slight smell of tar, but during the
process there was no odor at all.’’ Jeweler Fischel
has more than one other triumph of inventive
genius to his credit, the most useful, probably,
being an adjustable umbrella handle.

M. L. Mantell, the Syracuse jeweler, who has
been ill for some weeks, is reported to be slowly
improving.

W. D. McLean has removed from 284 River
Street, Troy, to a more central location at 259
sroadway, in that city. Jeweler McLean is an
expert watchmaker, who has been in the trade for
many years.

J. R. Sturges, the enterprising jeweler, of 99
Congress Street, Troy, is the inventor of an inge-
nious gas stove for heating purposes, and has been
granted on it four United States and two foreign
patents. He has tested this stove against the best
similar devices now on the market, with the most
favorable results. He states that his stove pro-
duced fifty per cent. more heat at fifty per cent.
less expense than the best of the other makes, and
he has vindicated his belief in the superiority of
his invention by leasing for three years a factory in
which he will begin the manufacture of these
articles. THE KEYSTONE wishes him success in
his enterprise.

Ohio

C. H. Harris, of Portsmouth, has sold his
store to J. F. Carr, of Kenton, who took posses-
sion of it on October 1st. Mr. Harris will again go
into the jewelry business as soon as he can find a
suitable location. His health, however, would not
permit him to continue at Portsmouth.

J. F. Carr, formerly of Kenton, has purchased
the jewelry business of C. H. Harris, Portsmouth.
He has refitted the store throughout with mahog-
any fixtures, largely increased the stock and made
a number of other improvements which, when
completed, will make this one of the handsomest
jewelry stores in Southern Ohio. THE KEYSTONE
wishes Mr. Carr abundant success in his new
location.

Pennsylvania

J. H. Lepsch, the Portland Mills jeweler, who
is manager of the Standard Wood Co.’s factory at
that place, intends to open a new jewelry store at
Portland Mills on November Ist, under the firm-
name of J. H. & C. Lepsch. A new brick build-
ing is being erected for the firm, which it is antici-
pated will be ready for occupancy on the date
mentioned.

The demise, recently, at Allegheny, of Rev.
Henry Seifert, a retired Lutheran clergyman,
formerly of Franklinville, has a special interest for
the trade by reason of the fact that three of his
sons are well-known jewelers, namely, John M.
Seifert, of Mulberry, Ind., D. I. Seifert, of
Monessen, and C. H. Seifert, of Apollo. Besides
the foregoing, the deceased clergyman leaves one
other son and three daughters. A few days prior
to his demise, he attained his eighty-third year,
and he had been in the ministry for half a century.

Edwin Keller & Sons, the well-known Allen-
town jewelry firm, celebrated on September 12th,
the fortieth anniversary of its establishment in that
city. The founder of this prosperous business,
Edwin Keller, is a native cf Kellersville, who
leerned the jewelry trade in Easton, and became
an expert workman. Forty years ago, in company
with his brother, Samuel S. Keller, he went to
Allentown, bought the jewelry store of John
Newhard, at 737 Hamilton Street, and began busi-
ness there September 12, 1865, under the firm-
name of Keller & Brother. This firm continued
until the year 1888, when Samuel Keller retired
and Mr. Keller conducted the business alone. In
1893, he took into partnership his eldest son,
Herbert C. Keller, who had become an expert
optician. In 1897, his youngest son, Arthur E.
Keller, became a partner under the firm-name of
E. Keller & Sons. In August, 1892, the business
was removed to its present quarters, 711 Hamilton
Street. Apropos of its fortieth anniversary, the
firm issued a very handsome little calendar, con-
taining a brief resume of its history.

ARIE
ANTOINETTE”

One of our new sets for
Fall of 1905.
Youll be interested in our
other new set,

The

“English Threaded”

Full line of toilet and mani-
cure pieces in both patterns.

Send for illustrations and
price-lists.

PRISCILLA.

OUR
LATEST

91 Filled

THIMBLES

NOVELTY No. 1950
THIMBLE ILLUSTRATED
CATALOG
SHOWING FULL LINE
SENT

UPON APPLICATION

SIMONS, BRO. & CO.

SILVERSMITHS———THIMBLE MAKERS JEWELERS

: i I
NEW YORK 611 SANSOM STREE CHICAGO

ees PHILADELPHIA ig Stee Stront

October, 1905

Modern Gold Seekers and
Their Methods

H IS methods differ from those of old
prospectors. Takes advantage of
eee) progress in the sciences. Use of
the drill in discovering veins or their extent.
The yield from the gold
Increase in mines has increased 60 per
Gold Production cent, in less than a decade.

In seeking the reasons for

this truly remarkable development one is
especially prominent—the advance
which has been made in the methods fol-
lowed by the modern gold seeker. ‘The
prospectors, says the Scientific American,

have taken advantage of progress in geol-

great

ogy, chemistry and other sciences and have
provided themselves with mechanical aids
which are far superior to the crude imple-
ments employed by the metal hunters of the
past.

Their examination has not been con-

fined to merely the bed of a creek or the side
of a mountain, but often is so extensive that
it embraces miles of area. Many a pros-
pecting tour rises to the dignity of an expe-
dition and embraces a variety of apparatus,
to say nothing of a staff of geologists and
other experts.
In the old-fashioned system,
as it might be termed, of
seeking precious metal, the
prospectors can be divided
into two classes—those who are satisfied to
obtain the metal in any form and the
“pocket hunters.” The latter individual
considers himself above the other type of
prospector, terming his calling professional.
Many a one has spent the better part of his
life in exploring beds of streams and dry
valleys in search of pockets. In southern
Oregon the pocket hunters have been per-
haps more numerous than elsewhere in the
United States proper, as this section of the
State has vielded a large amount of gold in
this form. Pocket prospectors depend upon
the pick, shovel and pan, as do their fellows,
but they seldom dig further into the side
of the bank or hill than their shovel will
reach.

The ordinary prospector wades along
the bed of the stream or tramps through its
sand if it is “dry,” here and there filling his
pan with the material. Then immersing the
pan in water, he thus separates the sand
from the other matter and gradually spilling
out the sand, eagerly gazes at the bottom of
the pan to ncte any glittering streak which
may betoken the presence of gold. If he is
working along the side of a hill where he
believes the ledge of rock may contain a

The Old-fash-
ioned Methods

THE KEYSTONE

vein of gold-bearing ore, he breaks off likely
portions with his pick, crushes them as best
he can and dumping the dust and fragments
into his pan repeats the separation process.

In the examination of rock for metal-
bearing ore, the arrastra of the Mexicans
and Spaniards has been used extensively,
especially in California and Oregon. This
contrivance consists of a vertical shaft or
axis, which supports several wooden bars
fastened at right angles to it. To the ends
of the bars are attached heavy flat stones,
which, by the movement of the axis, revolve
in a circular pit. The specimens of ore are
placed in the pit, a stream of water is turned
upon them and the arrastra placed in motion
by animal or water power. The ore is re-
solved into a slimy sediment by being
ground in the water and passes off through
the sluiceway, which is provided with riffles
for catching the gold.

The modern methods for
searching for deposits of
precious metal are so radi-
cally different from those
described that it may be said a revolution
has taken place in prospecting in the United
States. In the Rocky Mountain region the
formation has been pierced as far as 2,000
feet in the effort to ascertain the existence
of a vein or the dimensions of one already
discovered. Some of the projects which
have been carried out preliminary to the
opening of mines represent an outlay of
more than $1,000,000 in the purchase of
apparatus, the employment of noted experts
and in the general magnitude of the opera-
tions.

The Modern
Methods

Among the mechanical appliances
which have been of great assistance to the
modern prospector is the drill. With it he
can make borings in a week where, if a shaft
were sunk, a vear would be needed. If the
formation is to be examined by a shaft,
however, the cost of sinking it is reduced
to a minimum by means of explosive cart-
ridges, which are now manufactured espe-
cially for such service. They are ignited by
means of the electric current, and it should
be said that an essential part of the modern
prospecting outfit is the chemical battery,
which is of value not only for this purpose
but in the application of electrolytic methods
to separating the precious metal from the
dross.

Few expeditions of any size

Scientific are sent out without an ex-
Knowledge : f
Necessary perienced geologist, who is

usually provided with maps
and other data giving the best information
available regarding the region to be ex-
plored, Maps giving the extent of the

1s fi

claims, the direction of the veins and the
general topography of the region where the
mine is to be opened are obviously of much
value, and a draughtsman is frequently in-
cluded in the staff, with material for prepar-
ing the maps on the spot from the data
obtained by the investigators.

Besides the geologist, the services of an
expert chemist are also of great importance,
and a laboratory in minature is contained
in the packs carried by the animals. So
complete is this portion of the equipment
that a fairly correct field analysis can be
made of the specimens secured by the use of
the drill or by the other prospecting tools.
If the outcropping of a quartz vein is dis-
covered, enough is broken off to allow its
character to be studied both from a geologi-
cal and a chemical standpoint.

After examining it in connection with
the formation in the vicinity, the geologist
is often able to indicate where the surface
can be bored with the possibility of reaching
the ore-bearing stratum at once. The value
of the ore from the outcropping and that
from the interior can be approximately de-
termined by the chemist. To crush the ore
is a slight undertaking, and with the lead
which he has brought along the material can
be readily fused in a portable furnace. In
fact, he has the essentials for making a
“dry assay” on a limited scale, for cupels
are now made of such light weight that they
can readily be carried on muleback.

Taking the ingot of lead
and of precious metal he
can easily oxidize the lead
by placing it in his cupel
and heating the latter to the required tem-
perature in an oven constructed of material
which he can obtain in the vicinity. With
his nitric acid he separates the silver which
may remain, leaving the gold only to be
tested for its value. The proportion of the

gold to a given quantity of ore can be deter-
mined by his scales, but by using his touch-
stone or black basalt he can detect the qual-
ity of the gold by the color which this sub-
stance makes when drawn over the surface
of the metal.

In the outfit of the modern prospector
quicksilver has become practically indispen-
sable. Its affinity for gold makes it a most
valuable agent. Where the existence of
placer gold is imagined, the introduction of
mercury into the test washer soon solves the
problem and avoids the use of riffles and
other crude appliances which were formerly
depended upon almost entirely. After
crushing the specimens of test ore, the
quicksilver can also be used to ascertain the
quantity of free gold among the particles.
As the mercury can be eliminated by heating
the composition to a sufficiently high tem-
perature, it is now utilized in large quanti-
ties by the modern prospector.

Chemical Tests
for Gold

The Ring That Sells
Made by
Weiss Jewelry Mfg. Co.
St. Louis, Mo.

\—_————- -
hate indetenstenesl 2

Write for list Catalogue 1905-6, with latest styles of Diamond

Mountings, Rings, Pendants, Doublet Set Rings, etc.

We make every piece we sell.

October,

T gos

Readers are requested to send for publication new ideas
on any subject, technical or mercantile, of general
interest tothe trade. As this page is for the use
of individual readers, we do not hold our-
selves responsible for the views ex-
pressed.- Editor The Keystone.

Mutilation of Coins

Ep. KEYSTONE :—In regard to the article in
your August issue as to ‘‘ Mutilation of Coins by
jewelers, I wish to state that in the late *80’s and
early ’go’s there was a fad of making bangles of
coins. To such large proportions did it grow, that
the government, to stop the use of coins for this
purpose, passed the law prohibiting the mutilation
of coins.

Shortly after the passage of this law, a jeweler
(if I remember right, of Boston) had an order to
myke up some ornaments from a number of coins.
When center the work was to show that it
was made of coins; yet the coins were to be in
such condition that they could never be used again
as currency. ‘Toassure himself that he was not vio-
lating the law, this jeweler wrote to the Treasury
Department, explaining how he wanted to use the
coins and asking fora ruling in the matter. The
reply seemed to indicate that such use of the coins
would not be a violation of the law. The jeweler
then went on with the work, and later was hauled
up for violation of the law.
ation or defence
partment.

He offered in extenu-
the letter from the Treasury De-
At the trial this letter was repudiated
by the court, the jeweler was adjudged guilty and
had to pay a heavy fine.

The intent of the law is the protection of the
coinage, and any mutilation, however slight, is a
violation. Any one has the right to melt his coins
into bullion, but nothing short of complete destruc-
tion as coins will suffice.

Truly yours,

Columbia, S. C. P. Eh PACHICOLEEE,

Gold Rings Blackening the Finger

14 K.
solid gold band rings and am _ having trouble with
them turning the black. Will you kindly
tell me through your valued columns the cause and

Ep. KEYSTONE:—I have sold several

finger

remedy. The rings were sold iast Christmas and
have been in constant use.
Truly yours,
Dunkirk, Ind. GW. GS
Pi do not refer me to some back

number of your journal, as I have no file for any

—Please

considerable time back.

[\We will make this letter the occasion ons a
word of advice to the trade, on the necessity ¢
keeping complete files of this journal. Had our
subscriber had a file with the annual indexes, he
could have found this information in a moment,
saved his time and ours, and also the space in our
columns which might be used to better purpose
on some less familiar subject.

As most of our readers are aware when the
skin blackens a ring, it is caused by the sulphur
thrown off in the insensible perspiration. The
subject of gold rings blackening the finger is one
which, we think, has interested the human family
about as long as gold rings have been worn. The
belief usually held by people is, that a gold ring
will not blacken the finger, w hile a brass ring will.
The facts are, gold rings will in some instances

T HE

blacken the finger. There is always a distinguish-
ing feature between the blackening produced by
gold and that produced by brass; the black from
gold is a true black or gray, while the black from
brass is a green-black. The explanation of a gold
ring blackening the finger is, the gold is soft and
the skin of the finger wears away sold enough to
eive a black color. not a stain but aha bsolute
painting of the finger with a black pigment, which
really is gold in a very fine state of division. In
proot of this, write your name on a piece of enamel
cardboard with a five-dollar gold piece. The
board used must be enameled, to remove enough
gold to give acolor. A better medium or substance
to use is a thin kind of hard white leather drug-
gists use for tying over the corks of bottles. A
piece of such leather glued to a bit of board, and
used like a buff, will show a black streak after a
few rubs on the edge of a gold coin.

Another proof that fine gold appears black
can be shown by chemical action. Alloy some
pure gold with three times its weight of silver.
Roll out the alloy extremely thin, then cut into
small bits and dissolve them in pure nitric acid,
diluted one-half with water. After the metal is ap-
parently all dissolved there will remain in the bot-
tom of the vessel a black powder, which is nothing
more nor less than the gold which was alloyed with
the silver, which can be. proved by fusing the black
powder to a yellow button of pure old of the
same weight as was alloyed with the silver. It
follows, as a natural sequence, that the softer the
gold the more easily it will wear away and blacken
the finger. To those who are incredulous about
the human skin being rough enough to perceptibly
wear away gold, we suggest consulting a barber who
strops his razor on the palm of his hand. There is
much difference in persons in regard to the abrasive
properties of their skin, and we presume that with
the same person a dry, rough condition of the skin
would tend more toward blackening than would a
soft, moist condition.—ED. |

‘Putting Up a Front”

N an interior town, one evening recently,
the representative of a prominent jobbing
house, just-arrived, was sitting in front of the
hotel planning his operations for the next

day, He heard the ‘““chuo-chuse’” of an
a > >

approaching automobile and, looking
saw Mr. Blank,

Two citizens,

I
the jeweler, whizzing by.

standing nearby, were thus
heard to remark

‘“That’s a fine machine of Blank’s.”’
‘“ You bet !

a week ago.

Paid me $1500 for it, cash,
Blank seems to be getting on
—the jewelry business must be paying.”’

“Well, you can’t tell.
‘putting up a front.’

Maybe Blank 1s
only I’d sooner have

Jones’ business, around the corner. He
doesn’t put on the style that Blank does, but
he’s getting there ina business way. Blank’s
a blutier,””

The jobber’s man sat up and thought
He turned to his memorandum
that Blank

and Blank had

thing's over.

book and saw owed the firm just
about $1500, past due ; ‘paid
cash’’ for the automobile the week before.
The jobber’s man had come to the town
specially to offer Blank a ‘‘ good thing ’’ in
a job lot of discontinued styles of staple goods,
$1000. He had not

amounting to about

been disturbed by the overdue account but
had intended to sell the job lot on top of the
old bill,

for Blank had always successfully ‘‘ bluffed ”’

if he couldn’t get cash on account ;

KEY S Fo nN & 1733

the firm. But the automobile butted in on
his plans.

The next morning he took the goods to
Jones, who bought them with an ‘‘extra 10
off for cash.”’

The incident suggests a variety of profit-
morals, which be tabulated

able might

follows :
1. Your cash belongs to the man whose
bill is past due, not to the vender who will

help you to ‘‘ put up a front.”’

2. ‘‘ Putting up a front’’ is only justifia-
r behind the front.

3. There’s no such be: ake for an automo-
bile on the road as a fat bill-file athome. It

seems to interfere with the whiz.

ble when there’s somethi ing

¢6

s satisfaction in ‘‘ putting up a

4; Blank
front’’ is as nothing compared to Jones’
satisfaction in contemplating his discounted
and receipted bill.

5. Blank is fooled in thinking the people
are fooled.

Jones will sell the bargain lot at a big
an automobile can't sell goods.

Better
line, until your bills are paid.

profit ;
smell of watch-oil than gaso-
8. $1500 past due for goods sold or in
stock seems twice as big as before the $1500
was paid in cash for a luxury.

g. A pretence that 1s found out is the
flattest proposition possible. A toy balloon
looks like a solid globe zzf2/ you prick it
with

a pin ; and there’s nothing quite SO

absurd as to hope that a duszzess balloon
may long escape an inquiring pin.

ro. An unpretentious man generally car-
ries with him the quiet sympathy and good
but the

challenges the criticism

neighbors ; who

)

will of his man

‘puts up a front $3
of the

their credulity.

people, in demanding something of
No man likes to believe that
another /hzzks he can be made a fool of.

11. Anautmobile is not the only way to
excite attention. Sometimes superior work-

manship at the bench, or having the best

goods, or the lowest prices, does the trick

)

and it costs less—and pays better.

Food Deposits on Desert Islands

The New Zealand government has pro-

vided for castaway crews by establishing

depots where food and clothing may be ob-

Not

shipwrecked and

tained on several islands off the coast.

long ago a French crew,

cast upon the Auckland Islands, were sus-

tained for a considerable period by this

thoughtful provision. At most of the islands

a boat is left, also, while finger-posts point

out the way to the depots. The govern-

ment steamer visits most of the islands twice

a year, and no island is visited less than

once a year,

50 Per Cent. More
Attractive

Up-to-Date Jeweler:

J Ave you seen the new lines of
Art Pottery we have just
produced ?

he you know that they are abso-
lutely new—that they are dif-
ferent from any ever made?

Net you be interested when

we tell you, and investigation
will prove, that they sell readily at
good profit, and gzve perfect
satisfaction ?

a “ 9
dl
Illuminated a Show Cases

(John Petz, Patentee)
are fitted with best German Plate Mirrors which show true reflections of the goods
displayed. ‘This, combined with our clever Iluminating Device, makes ‘* Quick Sales”
Cases attract 50% more attention than others. ‘The experience of progressive mer-
chants everywhere proves it.

American Shoek Mirrors—used by nine-tenths of our competitors because they are
cheaper—are wavy—do not show true reflections, and haven't the remarkable brilliancy
peculiar to German Plate.

It’s the details of construction—the mirrors—the glass—the wood—the glue—the
workmanship—and the finish that makes ‘ Quick Sales’? Cases more rigid, more durable
and more attractive than others. It’s the “Quick Sales’? quality that insures ‘‘ quick
sales and more sales.’? Write to-day for prices and information,

DETROIT SHOW CASE COMPANY, vent. c

“Show Case Builders to Progressive Merchants”

E think you should be inter-

ested and see them sure be-
fore buying a dollar’s worth of
pottery—it’ ll pay you. Send for
catalogue to-day.

SALESROOMS:
NEw YORK—68 and 70 West Broadway B () W
PHILADELPHIA—1035 Market Street ~ . C n S

CHicAGo—ol4 Hartford Building

BostTON—146 Franklin Street g .
PITTSBURGH—420 Bissell Block Zanesville, Ohio
PORTLAND, OREGON—46 and 48 Front Street

BALTIMORE—2 Clay Street

482 to 490
Fort Street, West

Detroit, U.S.A.

JOHN PETZ, Pres.

HERBERT MALOTT, Sec.-Treas (bear S ; Es

Canadian Branch
Windsor, Ont.

FINEST GRADE
SILVER PLATED
HOLLOW WARE

A Line Guaranteed Strictly
Hand Burnished

PHOTOGRAPH BOOK
Loaned to the Trade

for Inspection

NEW YORK, 14 Maiden Lane PERE ere ne SAN FRANCISCO, 134 Sutter St.
PHILADELPHIA, 929 Chestnut Street CHICAGO, Temporary Office, 22 St. James Place ATLANTA, 70-80 Peachtree St.

RR ES EOE SES, FEIT z
M59 te Si pAiN nates Bite 5
PE CL ha 2
SERA oat hie ees
ORNS ee
—=— CV *

Numerous inquiries have been made

Who Makes The Alliance Ring ?

Let us solve this question for you

WE DO!!!

The graceful style of the Alliance Ring is rapidly supplanting the use of the old-style wedding ring.

We have thus far supplied the entire demand, and we take these means to inform you that should you need them, we can supply you.
These rings are most carefully adjusted ; the joints are barely perceptible, except by a magnifying glass. |

They are easily opened as shown on illustration by inserting a sharp instrument, for instance a pin, in the inside pin hole.

>
es

14 karat, 3 dwts., in % dozen lots, $1.10 per dwt., net 18 karat, 3 dwts., in % dozen lots, $1.25 per dwt., net

| Leonard Krower, Manufacturing Jeweler, 536-538 Canal Street, NEW ORLEANS, LA.

ae
f+

October, 1905

The Origin of Pearls

Due to Boring Sponges and Burrowing Worms—
Most Important Fisheries of India—Pearl
Fishing in the United States

PEAKING generally, the substance
forming the inner layers of the
shells of any nacreous mollusk is

termed “pearly.” In the mass it constitutes
what is known as “mother of pearl,’ while
in the form of a detached lustrous concre-
tion 1t 1s a “pearl.” Dr. W. A. Herdman;
of the University of Liverpool, England, in
reporting recently on the pearl oyster fish-
eries of Ceylon, makes some very interesting
statements as to the origin of pearls, from
which it appears that some pearls, or pearly
excrescences on the interior of the shell, are
due to the irritation caused by boring
sponges and burrowing worms, says Ran-
dolph L. Geare in the Scientific American.

It would seem that minute grains of
sand and other foreign particles gain access
to the body inside the shell, which are popu-
larly supposed to form the nuclei of pearls,
only under very exceptional circumstances ;
in fact, only one pearl out of a large num-
ber which Dr. Herdman decalcified con-
tained in its center what proved to be be-
yond doubt a grain of sand. It is only
when the shell is iniured, as by breaking off
or crushing the projecting “ears’’—thereby
enabling some fine sand to work in—that

such inorganic particles supply the irritation
which gives rise to pearl formation.

Another class of pearls,
found in the muscular tissue
of the animal, are called
“muscle pearls.” They have
no organic nuclei, but seem to start as mi-
nute calcareous concretions in the tissue.
The choicest pearls, to which Dr. Herdman
gives the name ’’cyst” or “orient,” occur

Varieties of
Pearls

in the thin muscular margin of the mouth,
or in the thick, white lateral part over the
stomach and liver, or at times are found
free in a cavity of the body; and Dr. Herd-
man’s observations have caused him to re-
mark that the majority of the fine pearls
found in the soft tissues contain more or

less recognizable remains of parasitic
worms,so that the stimulation which event-
ually causes the formation of an “orient”
pearl is due to infection by a minute worm
which becomes encased and dies; thus, as
Dr. Herdman puts it, justifying in a sense
Dubois’s statement that “the most beautiful
pearl in the world is in short nothing more
than the brilliant sarcophagus of a worm.”

Dr. Kelaart, another prominent author-
ity on pearls, is credited with having been
the first to connect their formations with
the presence of wormy parasites, although
as far back as 1852 Filippi proved that the

THE KEYSTONE

trematode worm, known as Distomum du-
plicatum, was the cause of pearl formation
in some of the fresh water mussels. Other
authorities. such as Humbert, the Swiss nat-
uralist, agree that these worms play an 1m-
portant part in the formation of pearls, and,
this being so, it may be asked what is to
prevent the possibility of infecting oysters
with these worms, thereby increasing the
supply of pearls.

The true pearl oyster (Me-
The True Pearl Jeagrina margaratifera) 1s
Oyster found chiefly in the Indian

Ocean, the Red Sea, the
warmer parts of the South Pacific, the Gulf
of California and the Caribbean Sea. The
local conditions supply, &c., vary greatly in
different regions.

The pearl fisheries of India have long
been famous. The most important are in
the Gulf of Manar. On the Ceylon side the
fisheries were very profitable in 1903 and
1904. The seasons are irregular here, as
elsewhere, owing to the frequent disappear-
ance of the oysters before they reach the
proper age of production, which is four to
Six years.

As the modus operandi of these fish-
eries is in general similar in every region
a brief description of that employed in the
Cevlon fisheries will suffice for all. When
conditions are favorable a fishery 1s organ-
ized and two hundred or more large boats
are fitted out, manned by sturdy natives,
each boat having its complement of divers.
The boats, grouped in fleets of sixty or sev-
enty each, start at night so as to reaeh the
banks by sunrise.

Each boat generally carries two divers
and is manned by ten rowers, a steersman
and a shark charmer (fillal karras). He 1s
a very important personage, for upon his
mystic ceremonies the diver chiefly relies
for protection from the numerous sharks,
but he also arms himself with a club in case
the incontations of the charmer should fail.
As soon as the bank is reached a signal gun
is fired and diving commences. The diver
has a stone of granite weighing about forty
pounds attached to the cord by which he is
let down in order to facilitate his descent.
Divers work in pairs, one going down while
the other stays on board to watch the signal
cord. When this is jerked the stone is
pulled up first, then the basket of ovsters
and lastly the man. Divers generally re-
main below about a minute and are expected
to make forty or fifty descents a day.

The pearls are sorted into

Sorting The ten different sizes by pass-
Pearls ing them through brass
sieves containing respec-

tively 20, 30, 50, 80, 100, 200, 409, 600, 800
and 1,000 holes. The number of oysters
obtained daily in these fisheries is estimated
at about a million. These are auctioned off,
and frequently bring $10 to $14 a thousand,
while even as high a price as $24 a thousand
has been reached. The present local price
for selected pearls of one caret and upward
is about $20 ner carat. In 1903 the Govern-
ment realized $271,850, and in 1904 $351,-
564 from these fisheries.

Among other localities where pearl
fisheries are carried on may be mentioned

1735

the Merguian Archipelago under the Gov-
ernment of Burma, the lower end of the
Red Sea, the Persian Gulf, the waters
around the Molucca Islands, in the neigh-
borhood of Zanzibar, and on the west coast
otf New Caledonia. Nearer home are the
fisheries of La Paz, in lower California,
British Honduras, Panama, along the coast
of Ecuador and of Peru, and in the lower
Gulf of Maracaibo. There is also a flourish-
ing pearl fishery on the northern coast of
Australia, where a large fleet of vessels is
employed, and another extensive industry
has lately been reported in the neighbor-
hood of Thursday Island, north of Queens-
land.

The gathering of pearls
from fresh water shells has
been carried on for centu-
ries on this continent.
When De Soto was made Governor of Cuba
it was agreed that one-fifth of all treasures
won in battle, including pearls, should be
given to the Spanish crown, and on one oc-
casion his men are said to have obtained
350 pounds’ weight of pearls from Indian
graves in Cutifachiqut.

The value of pearls from fresh water
shells varies greatly, depending on their
size and color. One pearl from a fresh
water mussel was sold for $1,500, while a
round pink pearl from Tennessee brought
$650. One of the finest pearls ever collected
in the United States was the “Queen.” It
had a beautiful luster and weighed ninety-
three grains. It was found near Paterson,
N. J., in 1857, and was sold to the Empress
Eugenie for $2,500. ‘To-day it is probably
worth $10,000.

Pearl fishing in the United States has
been carried on in many States, including
Kentucky, Tennessee, Texas, Wisconsin,
Illinois, Arkansas, Missouri, Georgia and
Kansas.

The manufacture of ornamental ob-

jects, such as pocketbooks, hand _ satchels,
jewel cases, etc., from pearl shells, has dur-
ing recent years become an important in-
dustry, and with their iridescent shades of
salmon, purple, pink and cream, very beau-
tiful articles are made.
The pearl button industry
has increased extensively
during the last eight years,
and several factories, espe-
cially in towns in Iowa and Illinois border-
ing on the Mississippi River, are now in op-
eration, The principal species of fresh
water mussels whose shells are used in their
manufacture is the “niggerhead” (Quad-
rula ebena), while several varieties of “‘sand
shells” are also employed, including the
“yellow” (Lampsilis anodontoides), the
“black” (L. rectus), and the “slough” (L.
fallaciosus). One of the best shells is the
“deerhorn” (Tritigonia verrucosa); and
another favorite is the “butterfly” (Plagiola
securis ).

The pear} button industry in the United
States began in 1891, the first factory being
established at Muscatine, Jowa. The largest
factories turn out as many as a thousand
gross of finished buttons a day, the average
price obtained being thirty-five to forty
cents a gross.

Value of Fresh
Water Pearls

Pearl Button
Industry

DIAMONDS

LOOSE and MOUNTED

MAKERS OF FINE JEWELRY

Jos. NOTERMAN &z CO.

512-514 RACE STREET CINCINNATI, OHIO

DIAMONDS RECUT AND REPAIRED

Re AD

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October, 1905

What to Do with Small Savings

VERYBODY would like to save money,
and almost everybody can. But it is gen-
erally agreed that money is harder to keep
and safely invest than to get. Especially
is this true of small savings. What shall we do

with them?

Open a bank account. Booker T. Washington
says to his people: ‘‘As soon as you have saved a
dollar open a bank account. And if you do not
have a dollar, open it with half a dollar.’’

Select the strongest and best-managed bank
you can, but any bank is safer than your bureau
drawer, and when a bank does fail, which is not
often in proportion to the number of banks, the
owners of the bank must lose ail their investments
in it first, so the depositors usually lose nothing.
Or go into a building association. Usually an in-
vestor pays into his building association one dollar
a month for each share he takes. This money is
invested by the managers of the association, gene-
rally in mortgages on real estate in the town where
the association is located. The interest thus earned
tor you is added to your principal and is kept accu-
mulating until each of your shares is worth two
hundred dollars, when your money is drawn out
and paid to you. The time that it takes for a
share to amount to two hundred dollars varies
somewhat according to the local demand for
money, but it is usually about ten or eleven years.
A simple calculation will show you that you have
received a very good rate of interest upon your
savings while they were accumulating.

One advantage of a building
Building Associa- association is that you are
tions Most Helpful compelled to save money,
) and to resist temptations that
come to you to spend it unnecessarily. . You can
withdraw from the association at any time and get
back all that you have paid in, together with a fair
interest upon it; but to get all that your money
has earned, you must continue to pay until the
shares mature and are worth the two hundred dol-
lars apiece. Building associations are especially
helpful to a man who wants to buy a home with his
savings. He can borrow most of the cost of a
home from the association, pay the interest each
month, which will be much less than rent, and
at the end of ten or eleven years his matured
shares will pay his debt. Many thousands of
men with small incomes have paid for homes in
this way.

The building associations here referred to are
home associations well managed by careful, con-
servative men. But you should be very cautious
about investing in building associations in distant
places, especially if they are spending money to
pay agents to travel about and promise high rates
of interest. Some of these associations have
proved to be disastrous to those who invested in
them.

When you have saved five hundred or a thou-
sand dollars look around for a permanent invest-
ment. But first make up your mind what not to
do. Do not invest in some mining or other plau-
sible scheme which you see advertised, or which
has been urged upon you by an agent, as certain
to pay you ten or twelve per cent. upon your in-
vestment. Do not forget that there are millions of
dollars lying idle in the banks of this country
whose owners would snap at a chance to invest
them safely at five per cent. or even less. And if
the investments thus advertised were really safe
you would never hear of them. Their manage-

TH EB

a — <a > ~ Oe Oe

ment would certainly not spend money in adver-
tising or sending out agents when the man next
door has a million dollars to invest at half the rate
which they are promising you. While an occa-
sional one of these may turn out fortunately, such
are very rare indeed. The best of them are specu-
lative, and many of them are frauds, It is a great
misfortune that the newspapers publish their ad-
vertisements, The best papers and magazines
do not do it.

First of all, then, look out for the safety of
your investment. Be more anxious that your prin-
cipal shall be safe than to geta high rate of interest.
Do not expect to find any permanent and safe in-
vestment that will pay you more than five per
cent. There is no greater dicouragement to further
saving than to lose what you have already saved.

If you are permanently located
and need a home, buy one. Pay
al] you can upon it, borrow the
rest of its cost upon a mortgage,
with the privilege of paying off a part of the mort-
gage every time you pay your interest, and then
pay for it as fast as youcan. ‘There is no sater or
more satisfactory investment of savings than ina
home. But if you do not need a home, real estate
is often an unwise investment. It is often difficult
to sell without a sacrifice. It is a common and
true saying, that real estate is much easier bought
than sold. Repairs, taxes and insurance use up a
large part of the rent. Securing tenants and col-
lecting rents is troublésome and sometimes uncer-
tain; and persons with little practical business
experience, which includes most women and many
men, had not better buy real estate as an invest-
ment.

Next to a home, there is no better investment
for you than a first mortgage on real estate in your
neighborhood. A mortgage is a pledge of property
for the payment of a debt. A second mortgage is
a second one placed on the same property. The
first mortgage and its interest must be paid in full
before anything is paid upon the second mortgage,
so don’t buy a second mortgage. If the property
is sold, whoever buys it assumes the mortgage and
must pay the interest, and the principal when it is
due. Should the owner of the property fail to pay
the interest or principal when due, the property
may be sold by the sheriff, and the mortgage, prin-
cipal and interest, is paid from the proceeds of the
sale.

To invest safely in a mortgage you must be
sure that the property really belongs to him who
gives the mortgage, that it is worth considerably
more than you lend upon it, that the buildings upon
it are insured, and that it is recorded in the proper
office in the county courthouse before any other
mortgage on the same property is recorded there,
for it is the order in which the mortgages are
recorded, not the order in which they are given,
that makes them first or second mortgages. It is
the business of a conveyancer or a lawyer to attend
to these details, and this service is usually paid for,
not by you but by the borrower. Such a mortgage
needs no further attention so long as the interest
and all taxes on the property are promptly paid,
except to see that buildings are kept insured, and
possibly to call in your loan if the property seems
to be depreciating much in value.

A Home as
an Investment

Except in neighborhoods remote from business
centers, or in those which are rapidly developing
and increasing in value, the best rate of interest
now paid upon good mortgages is five per cent.
Most of the best ones, placed in or near the large
Eastern cities, do not pay more than four or four
and a half per cent, Almost everywhere the de-

RE YS TO NN E& 1737

mand for good mortgages is greater than tne sup-
ply, but they can usually be got after a little
waiting.

Bonds are a favorite kind of in-
vestment. When a railroad or
other such company wishes to
borrow money, it, too, usually
gives a mortgage upon its property. But as no one
person could or would lend a railroad all the
money it needed, a mortgage is given to some
trust company, and this mortgage is cut up into
thousand, or five hundred, dollar pieces, called
bonds, and these are sold to investors. The trust
company holds the mortgage for the security of
the bondholders. Bonds run a term of years,
rarely less than ten, often twenty, thirty, and even
fifty ora hundred years. The longer a bond has
to run the better it is, because it saves one the
trouble and risk of finding a new investment.
When a company is well established, is doing a
good, safe business, and is bonded for only a
reasonable part of the value of its property, its
bonds are among the best andsafest kinds of invest-
ment. The interest is usually collected by cutting
off, when due, coupons which are attached to each
bond, and which are promises to pay six months’
interest when due. These may be collected through
a bank like checks.

Bonds as an
Investment

The safest bonds are municipal bonds, or those
issued by the government, State, county, city, bor-
ough or township. Good municipal bonds pay but
small interest. Any State or important city in the
United States can borrow money at from three to
three and a half per cent., and no county or town in
the country with first-class credit is now obliged to
pay more than four per cent. upon its bonds. All the
late issues of United States Government bonds pay
but two per cent., and they sell at a premium, but
their value is increased by the fact that national
banks need them in order to issue bank notes upon
them. But the bonds of good trolley roads, water
or coal companies and other corporations can be
bought which pay almost, and sometimes quite,
five per cent.

It ought to be added, that once railroads and
similar enterprises were built from the sale of both
stock and bonds. Stock was subscribed and paid
for bythe builders of the road, and bonds were
sold to pay only the rest of the cost. Then its
bonds represented only a part, say one-half, of the
cost of a railroad, and were almost always a safe
investment. But now many enterprises are paid
for wholly by the sale of bonds, so the company
has really borrowed all, and sometimes even more,
than its property cost. This is especially true of
the trolley roads that are now building everywhere.
They are usually built wholly from the sale of
bonds, and they should be carefully investigated
before buying their bonds.

Stocks are another favorite form
of investment. The stockhold-
ers are the owners of the rail-
road, etc. There are all kinds
of stocks, some good, some very poor, and here,
too, it is important that inexperienced persons
should carefully consult experienced, capable and
honest men as to which should be bought. The
best stocks pay a low rate of interest on their
present cost. They, too, usually pay their divi-
dends twice a year. These dividends in well-
established companies seldom change, but the
directors have the right to change them or to stop
paying them at any time. An important advantage
of stocks and bonds is that they can be sold at any
time and practically for their full value.
—Geo Morris Phillips, in Ladies Hon. Journal,

Be Careful in
Buying Stocks

-
a

——

a
= ;

1738

WAIT FOR US NEW GOODS, NEW PRICES

We will soon call on you with an entirely new line of

M. S. BENEDICT MFG. COv’S Hollowware,

Flatware, Ormolu Gold Clocks, Jewel Boxes, Ink Stands and Art

ovelties. DON’T buy until you see us; we can give you the

best values of any line shown this year.

W.A. VAN PATTEN, Ohio and Indiana GILMORE BROS., Canada

JOHN BAILEY, Pennsylvania and West Virginia D. M. BANKER, New York Office

H. S. OSMUN, Michigan R. H. BECKLEY, Boston Office

GEO. F. YALE, Illinois NEWTON OWENS, St. Louis Office

M. E. WRIGHT, New England States E. H. BANKER, Chicago Office

E. A. KANE, New York and New Jersey C. T. AHLBORN, General Representative
CHAS. W. FUSSELL, Atlantic Coast States W.E. WIRT, Kansas

C. C. GRAHAM, Pacific Coast States WM. G. KING, Wisconsin

H. L. HAWKINS, Middle West H. C. KELLEY, Minnesota and Dakotas

October, 1905

Advertising for Retailers

Importance of Advertising—Advertising in
Small and Large Towns -— Use of
Price Tickets

HE retailer who has advertised per-
sistently and intelligently and has
as achieved success by reason of it 1s

the one on whose advice and experience we
can most rely. Such a merchant is C. H.
Casey, of Jordan, Minn. At the last con-
vention of the Minnesota hardware merch-
ants at Duluth he read a paper on adver-
tising that was so full of practical wisdom
that it will be read with interest and profit
by every jeweler. Mr. Casey said:
“This subject of advertising
is, | believe, one of the most
important of all matters
which a business man must
consider, for in many ways it involves the
vital interests of his business; it is a selling
agency, and in a retail business it is proba-
bly the most important of all the selling
agencies of your business.

“The first question is, does it pay to ad-
vertise in small towns? ‘The answer to this
may be found in the methods of the mail
order houses. They do not advertise in
the large cities, they strike the small towns.
They describe their goods, not to the city
people, but to the people in the small towns
and country, and they get results. If the
retail hardware man will take his cue from
this and go at the people right, mean busi-
ness in advertising, and make a business of
it, they will succeed. When the city graft
houses stop advertising through the terri-
tory covered by your home paper, you may
conclude that advertising in a small town
doesn’t pay, but so long as they are getting
business right out from under your noses,
vetting cash for goods not as good as you
sell on time, you cannot say that advertising
does not pay. The same people who are
willing to follow their ads. will read yours
if you give them something worth reading.
Put in something that means something,
keep it fresh, and the results will justify the
statement that advertising does pay in
towns, large or small.

“There is, however, a vast

Small Towns difference in the style of

and Large Cities writing an advertisement

for a. laree: concer 10) a:
large town and the local dealer in acountry

town. The man living in a town of 5,000

inhabitants or less, talks in his advertising

to the people he knows personally, and to
people who know him personally. The
large retailer in Chicago or New York talks
impersonally to some hundreds of thousands
of people whom he does not know, and who
do not know him personally. In this case
it’s the ‘business’ that is addressing the
public, but in your case it is the ‘man’ that
is the chief factor. Too many merchants,
it seems to me, make the mistake of attempt-
ing to follow the impersonal methods of the
big city advertiser. They realize that those
big retailers are very successful, and that it
is their advertising that is making them so,
very largely, and they try to follow their ad-

Importance of
Advertising

THE KEYSTONE

vertising methods, which do not fit or apply
to the smaller locality at all.

“My belief is,and always has been, that
if a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth
doing well, and I believe that this applies as
directly to the advertising of your store and
your business as anything one could think
of. If you are going to spend money at
all, spend enough and apply it in a way that
it will attract attention, or what you do
spend will be practically a waste.

“To start right in advertising requires
a certain amount of ‘sand.’ To put out a
good quantity of your hard earned dollars,
that are already safe in your pocket, or in
bank, and seek in exchange what might be
called an unknown quantity, takes grit and
faith, both in your ability to write convinc-
ing, pulling ads., and in the results in dollars
and cents. Here is, I believe, where many
a merchant ‘falls down.’ He is solicited
by the local newspaper man for an ad.; he
asks what it will cost, and being told, hesi-
tates and thinks of how good that money 1s,
of the nice things he could buy with it, or
perhaps of how hard he had to work and
scheme to make, but finally decides to take
a few dollars’ worth of space and see what
he gets out of it. The consequence is he
vets little or nothing in the way of benefit
from his investment, because he didn’t spend
enough or keep at it long enough to be
noticed. Very. often that merchant never
has the courage to try advertising again.
“In regard to distributing
advertising matter, I think
many merchants make the
mistake of being’ ‘penny
wise and pound foolish.” They buy or get
up a piece of advertising that in itself is
very worthy, and make the mistake of trying
to get it into their customers’ hands by
handing it to them as they come into the
store. This soon becomes an old thing,
clerks get careless, even you forget it your-
self, and the result is that perhaps not much
more than half the edition ever gets further
than the office or a shelf under the counter
until it’s old and out of date. And what
you do get out, only a small fraction is ap-
preciated as it should be, from the fact that
your customer received it at a time when,
to him, he had more important things on his
mind. If you get up a booklet or a calendar
that is worth giving at all (and it is useless
to get any other kind), it is worth the
trouble and expense of sending it to your
customer through the mail. Deliver it right
into his house, where he is bound to pick it
up and look it over, and in all probability
when he is in the best frame of mind. Thus
he will form the most favorable opinion of
you and your business.

“With such advertising you ought to
send a nicely written letter, calling his at-
tention to it, and to any other matter con-
nected with your business. I have found
this extremely good in sending out my an-
nual calendar at the beginning of the year.
It affords you the opportunity to thank your
customers for the business they have given
you during the previous year, shows that
you appreciate it, and you can express the
hope that their account will be largely in-
creased during the coming season.

Distribution of
Advertising

1739

“In my own business I have,

Use of Mailing and keep up, several mail-

Lists ing lists, which we use in
sending out advertising
matter. We have one list that contains the

names of the head of every family, in the
territory from which we draw trade. This
we use for general advertising, such as cir-
culars and booklets. We have another that
contains the name of every person with
whom we have done business, or with whom
we feel that we should do business, which is
used in distributing calendars and more ex-
pensive advertising. ‘Then we have lists of
carpenters, threshermen, well-men, town
and school officers, ete., and use them when
we have anything that is especially interest-
ing to them. One thing I have done in this
line that all of you may not have thought of,
is, that when I get up an especially good ad.,
one that appeals to a certain class, I have
the printer take this out (I am speaking of
a newspaper ad. now), put a nice border
around it, and run off a few hundred of
them, then mail them direct to the persons
most interested. For instance you get up a
good, strong ad. on belting and fittings; and
you mail them in the manner I have de-
scribed to every thresherman, creamery man
or mill man in your territory, and the
chances are you will get good results, and
with a minimum of expense.

“Make your advertising
Truth in truthful; do not announce
Advertising ‘bargains’ in glaring head-

lines, unless you have bar-
gains, for perhaps your competitor down the
street is offering the public the same or bet-
ter goods at as low or lower price, and not
making a fuss about it. Your customers
will soon begin to doubt all your advertise-
ments and even your personal talks, and it
will leave you in really worse shape than if
you had not advertised at all. Tell your
trade just what your goods are and what
you propose to do, and when the time comes,
do it. |

“In my judgment, an error with many
merchants who are considered good adver-
tisers, is that they show too much anxiety to
sell. There is an apparent fear that those
who read may not come to buy; an uncer-
tainty lest what the advertiser says will not
be believed. They assert almost as if with
tears in their eyes, that ‘this store is an
honest store;’ that ‘people who deal with
us will not be cheated;’ ‘we will treat you
square, and other words to the same effect.
When one is continually bellowing about his
honesty it gives you the feeling that perhaps
it’s just as well to keep one hand on your
pocketbook, and the other on your watch, or
even send for the police. In other words,
honesty rarely needs to make an assertion
of virtue. You get the public to your store
by general publicity, and fair dealing, good
merchandise, and low prices will speak for
themselves.

“Your show windows are one of your
best, and at the same time, very cheapest
advertising mediums, and you ought to give
them all the time and what little expense
they require to keep them in the very best
Shape. Keep them clean and _ neatly
arranged.”

“IF IT BURNS ALCOHOL, WE MAKE IT”

Machine is The noble Turk, the swarthy Arab and the indolent

Everyone who uses the Sternau Coffee
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You no doubt appreciate the fact that a new article to be successful must be advertised.

Your customers know that you are a jeweler, but probably will not recall that you sell a new line of coffee machines.

It is necessary that you let them know this in order to sell the coffee machine. We have produced a good coffee
maker, practical as well as ornamental, and you will find a ready sale for it.

We will assist you by furnishing you with cuts similar to those show on this page.

S. STERNAU CF CO., Manufacturers

New York Showrooms: Office and Factory:
Broadway, Cor. Park Place, Opposite Post Office. 195 Plymouth Street, Brooklyn, N. Y.

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: - WALL CASE. OAK ONLY No. 44. WALL CASE. OAK ONLY
No. 43. Case 8 Feet Long, Oak Only. Made in oak. Dimensions: Height, 8 feet 6 inches} No. 44. Case 8 Feet Long, Oak Only. Dimensions: Height, 9 feet 244 inches; length, 8
length, 8 feet ; width inside of case, 18 inches ; width of hase outside, 27 inches. The doors slide feet; width of base, 2 feet 3 inches; depth of show case, 17144 inches; glass best quality, double
on br ass tracks, fitted with glass of the best quality, double thick, full length ¢ glass in both doors thic k, full length in "doors and sides: size of glass in each ‘door 40x 54, Well ads ipted for the dis-
and sides; has two shelves on brackets ; cupboards in base for storing surplus stock. The case is play of goods, has six large commodious drawers and two cupboards for storing extra stock ; the
mé ide throughout of the best materials and well finished ; it is as good in the design and finish as doors are made to slide on brass tracks, making the case prac tically dust-proof. This case is
at $75 00 case you can buy and we make the price so low that none need be without constructed in a first-class manner and well finished ; : shipped in knock-down. . "¢
i - shippe Mi NOCKSUOWHE Gee ep So eee eee ew ee Re Net Cash $43 20 Net Cash $4 80

F. 0. B. NORRIS, ALISTER G CO., 134 to 138 Wabash Avenue, Chicago, III. Chicago

Chicago

October, 1905

Gems of the Pacific Coast

NE exhibit in the Mines Building, at
the Lewis and Clark Exposition, in
okay Portland, Oregon, which especially
attracted the attention of the visiting jewelers,

was the remarkable collection of precious
and semi-precious stones of the North Pacific
States, prepared by George F. Kunz, the

noted mineralogist, and loaned by Tiffany

& Co., New York. The collection com-
prises a representation of all the more
remarkable gem minerals from the entire

Pacific Coast region and from many points of
the interior Northwest, together with some
from Arizona and Utah The following de-
scription of the exhibit, by Mr. Kunz, is
very interesting :

Among the most valuable gem materials
shown are beautiful blue
sapphires from Yogo
Gulch, Fergus County,
Mont.

a striking contrast to

These present

the varied colors, red,

yellow, brown, blue,

epreen and white, of

those found in the

Jlacer washines near
>

Phillipsburg, Granite
County, Mont.

latter are all

These
obtained
by sluicing, whereas, in

> ’

Fergus County sap-

phire is mined in a
solid igneous rock.
Montana is also repre-
sented by some fine
and remarkable exam-
ples of amethyst and of
smoky quartz, sometimes curiously mingled,
and the latter filled with inclusions of black
tourmaline. These are very interesting
varieties, found a few years ago in the Little
Pipestone district, in Jefferson County.

From the Pacific Coast proper the most
northerly exhibit is that of the peculiar
large crystals of garnet from Fort Wrangell,

Alaska.

through a gray micha chist, like plums in a

These garnets are distributed
pudding, and although beautiful as cabinet
specimens, have little or no value as precious
gems. From Prince of Wales Island are
shown magnificent large crystals of dark
green epidote, wonderful for their perfection
as minerals, but not of gem value. They
were found by accident in mining for copper.

Of especial interest are speci-
Usefil Articles mens of aboriginal celts,

of Green Jade hammers and knives made
found in

One large mass of stock

of green jade,
graves in Alaska.
piece shows how the natives cut off enough

of this precious mineral to form their imple-

; Trt E

ments for hunting, for war or for the camp.

Lieutenant Stoney succeeded some years
ago in finding the substance in place as a
vein material at Jade Mountain. Thus was
disproved the hotly-contested theory of a
great German anthropologist, who spent a
lifetime in discussing the history and use of
this everywhere-prized aboriginal material,
and in attempting to prove that jade existed
only in two places in Asia, hence that all the
material, whether found in ancient Roman
graves, in France, in the Swiss lakes, or in
America, must have been brought by immi-
gration from Asia. Oregon is represented
by various specimens of agate. Chalcedony

Cale as

also shown, and likewise charming green

(sapphrine), from Kern County,

chrysoprase, from Visalia, Tulare County,

Cal., where the finest examples of this

This illustration shows a sample of the dazzling petrified remains of a California forest.
offered is that, ages ago, during an eruption of Mount St. Helena, the trees were overthrown and entombed, their
petrifaction being the natural result of the hot alkaline waters which flooded them, and which contained silica in
solution.

material found on the American continent
have been obtained in some quantity.

Of much interest is the compact green
vesuvianite, from Yreka, Siskiyou County,
Cal., a stone with some future as an orna-
mental material, being almost as tough and

An-

other elegant green mineral is utahite, a gem

as beautiful in color as the best jade.

stone peculiar to Utah, where it is found in
the Floyd mining district, in Clay Cafion.
It is a rich golden green stone, slightly
translucent, that seems capable of use as an
ornamental material, and has some use in
quaint jewelry.

It is a striking circumstance
the West and
East meet—in Japan and in

Transparent that where

Rock Crystal

California—should be found
such masses of transparent rock crystal, from
which can be cut those wonderful balls which
the collectors of the world have always
obtained with such delight from Japan. It
was quite a surprise some years ago, in
working a gold mine at Mokelumne Hill,

KE Y S$: T ON &

I7AI

Calaveras County, Cal., when great masses
that

shown in the case, rock crystal balls measur-

of this mineral were found, cut, as
ing from 236 to 5% inches in diameter. It
was believed that the Japanese only could
work quartz crystals in this manner, but
Tiffany & Co. cut these in their own estab-
lishment from this American material, and
no finer examples of such balls have ever
been produced.

Southern California is fast becoming
known as as one of the most remarkable gem
regions in the world, rivaling the long-cele-
brated treasure ground of the Ural Moun-
tains. San Diego County, with its won-
derful yield of gems, was hence more fully
represented than any other part of the coast,
notably in the splendid tourmalines from
Mesa Grande and Pala

red and green and
bicolored crystals that
weigh several pounds,
and wonderful gems
that weigh up to 30
carats each—red,

green, yellow, and
sometimes single gems
showing two or three
distinct colors.
Wyoming was rep-
resented by the fine
pieces of moss agate, in
polished _ slabs,
Hartville,

New Mexico by speci-

large
from anc
mens of turquoise and
of the pyrope garnets
from the Navajo na-

The explanation

tion, which are often
quite erroneously mis-
called rubies.

Gem Stones From Arizona there was a
from Arizona

rich display of the wonder-
fully beautiful malachite, and
azurite specimens from the copper mines at
Bisbee, Clifton and Morenci; also the ele-
gant chrysocolla, with a brilliant coating of

crystals of quartz, from the Globe mine.
Fine examples. were shown of peridot

(chrysolite), from the lately-dicovered local-
ity for this mineral at Talkalai, Ariz.; one of
Tur-

quoise matrix, from Gila County, is a some-

these was a cut stone of 2534 carats.

what novel ornamental stone —the rock
traversed by small veins of turquoise being
cut and polished so as to produce a very
pleasing effect. Another ornamental stone,
resembling lapis lazuli, and like that cele-
brated mineral, adapted to choice uses in art
work, 1s quartz so penetrated and filled with
a dark blue fibrous mineral known as dumor-
tierite that it presents a homogeneous opaque
mass of an indigo or violet blue, that can be
cut and polished like the real lapis lazuli.

This is from Clip, Ariz.

1742

GEBHARDT BROS., Lion Bldg., Cincinnati, Ohio

Manufacturers of

Diamond
Mountings

Diamonds

Loose and
Mounted

We have made the manufacturing of
Diamond king Mountings in gold

We will send (by request) samples
of our choice patterns to any repu-

Quality, Style and

and platinum our special study for Price Unexcelled table house in the United States
the past eight years. on memorandum.

WHAT IT MEANS TO CARRY

EXCLUSIVE GOODS IN YOUR STOCK Think of it ! Tr VY it!

' ae Interchangeable Interchangeable
Signet= Photo. Locket Signet Emblem and Encrusted Initial and
Rings Initial Rings Emblem Rings
(Patent pending) (Patented June 138, 1905) (Patented Noy. 27, 1900)

Pacific Coast
representatives :

The 5th Edition Cata-~
logue has been mailed
by this date to every
Jeweler in the United
States. If you have not
received it, please send
for one.

A. EISENBERG & CO.
126 Kearny St.
San Francisco, Cal.

No. 1740

C Hi A RL ES M * L. EVY ; Manufacturer of at ae

90 William Street, NEW YORK ee

October, 1905

Hints on Fire Insurance

The Policy Form—Attachment Forms Placing
Insurance—Adjustment of Losses
—Schedule Rating

IRE insurance is a subject that

eee@ Should have the careful attention
Ewa) of every proprietor and manager.
If they cannot personally attend to their in-
surance affairs, they should delegate a com-
petent salaried employe to that duty—it
should never be left entirely to a local agent
or broker, no matter how competent they
may be.

The local agent and broker each has his

place and both are very necessary to the fire
insurance business, as it is now conducted.
Most of them are good men personally and
a large percentage are competent insurance
men who really take a great deal more in-
terest in the insurance affairs of their clients
than do the clients themselves; but, the fact
that the average local agent and broker are
both conscientious and competent should not
serve as a reason for any business manager
to neglect his insurance affairs.
Fire insurance is a necessity
and should be bought and
handled with the same care
that is exercised in the pur-
chase of any other article. It is also a
contract and should have the same consid-
eration from a legal standpoint that any
contract demands; this, of course, involves
the form of policy, and the printed form
which is attached to the policy, as a part of
the contract.

The standard form of policy adopted by
different states should be studied; their re-
strictions noted and tabulated; and when-
ever a policy is offered that is not a stand-
ard form, it should be read and studied with
unusual care, for not infrequently, they con-
tain clauses that make them absolutely
worthless, and it is a pretty safe assumption
that there is a “Nigger in the woodpile,” or
a standard form would be used. Some-
times policies are offered that are marked
in print “Standard” when in reality clauses
(usually objectionable) have been added.
These should be prepared
with utmost care. After
havine studied the policy
form carefully and having
noted its restrictions, the business should he
studied and the points at conflict with the
policy form should be listed; then the at-
tachment form should be prepared. The
first item is the “cover.” This should be
defined very plainly, so as to leave no par-
ticle of doubt as to its intent. Next comes
the “privilege clause” and the same import-
ance attaches to it. One must be sure that
privilege is granted to cover every point of
conflict between the business as it is con-
ducted and the policy form, else the policy
is of no value; on the other hand if the priv-
ileges asked are unreasonable the insurance
companies are liable to curtail their lines or
refuse to write the risk at all.

The companies sometimes require that
certain conditions of ‘“Co-insurance” or
“Average” or both, be made a part of the

Necessity of
Fire Insurance

Attachment
Forms

THE KEYSTONE

contract, and in such cases these “Co-insur-
ance” and “Average” clauses should be
complied with, for in the case of loss they
will certainly be considered in the adjust-
ment. In some places the policies are
stamped with a condition requiring the ap-
proval of the electrical equipment by an in-
spector in the employ of the underwriters,
and in such cases this matter should have
attention.

Policies are usually written .

from noon to noon, and in
view of the fact that the
question of whether solar
or standard time is intended has been the
basis of many lawsuits, it is well to have in
the attachment form a clause covering this
point, which clause should also state
whether the time will be calculated from the
place in which the policy is signed or from
the place in which the property is situate.

In many lines of manufacture, the
methods are often changed and in all lines
there is more or less changing in the plants ;
each time a change is made the insurance
should be considered, and in case of conflict
with the existing contracts, indorsement
covering the new conditions should be im-
mediately procured for all policies inter-
ested. It is important that the written por-
tion of all policies covering on one risk read
exactly alike, and to accomplish this it is
only necessary to be sure and use but one
style of attachment form.

Time in Insur-
ance Policies

After the “Attachment
Placing Forms” have been prepared
Insurance the insurance should be

placed. ‘To avoid the vex-
ing question of apportionment and contri-
bution, in case of loss, it is advisable to have
all policies on a risk cover specific amounts
on each item, that is, if the property, say
stock, is in three different buildings, and the
policy is for $1,500, have it specified that
$500 attaches on the stock in each building,
or make such other division as seems neces-
sary. Better still, have separate policies
for each building, but under no circum-
stance place same insurance blanket on the
stock in the three buildings if placing any
specific insurance on the items, unless famil-
iar enough with the subject of contribution
to know iust where you will land in case
of loss.

If the business is large the question of
securing enough desirable insurance is
sometimes a serious one, and it becomes
necessary to accept policies from companies
who write “Surplus Lines,” that is, com-
panies who are not authorized to do busi-
ness in the state in which the property is
located, but who write the policies from
their offices in other states. Generally, in
case of loss, these companies abide by the
settlement of the admitted companies, but
if suit is necessary, it will, of course, have to
be brought in the state in which the com-
pany or its representative is located. Some-
times it is necessary to go still further and
seek insurance in foreign countries. Usual-
ly the foreign policies. contain “Warranty
Conditions,” and these conditions must be
strictly complied with. Not infrequently
the foreign policies and sometimes some of
the domestic policies contain the “Highest

1743

Rate Clause” and it also is imperative in its
demands.

In determining what policies to accept
and what not to accept, the “insurance man-
ager’ becomes a credit man. He surrounds
himself with Best’s, Garret’s and other re-
ports and gathers together from other
sources whatever reliable information is ob-
tainable about all the companies; being
especially careful as to the “Surplus Lines.”
Each company must be studied separately
and analyzed as to its underwriting, policy,
quality of management, character of assets,
promptness in payment of losses, etc.
Many bogus companies solicit lines through
the mails and otherwise; sometimes offering
to write the risks at reduced rates and hold-
ing out other inducements. These, of
course, are easily recognized, as they are
either reported as worthless by the agencies,
or if of recent manufacture, are not reported
at all, and inquiry develops their character.

In case of a loss by fire, the
first thing to do after noti-
fying the agencies, is to
comply with that part of the
policy regarding the care and assortment of
damaged goods, protection of property from
further loss, etc. ‘Then the records should
be put in the best shape to exhibit quickly
and conclusively just what was in the fire
and its value, this will aid much in the ad-
justment, particularly as to the length of
time consumed, but also in a general way.

In the adjustment it will develop
whether or not the “attachment form” used
was a good one, and in the collection of the
loss after its adjustment will develop
whether or not wisdom was shown in the
selection of companies. The loss adjust-
ment, therefore, is really more or less of an
exhibit of the ability of the insurance
manager.

The adjuster or adjusters are soon on
the ground. They ask for their policies,
read them carefully, note the conditions of
co-insurance or average (if any), and pro-
ceed to look over the damaged property.
They then take such steps as they deem
necessary to satisfy themselves as to the
amount of the loss and usually come to some
agreement with the insured as to the
amount; but they are sometimes unable to
do this, and ask for an appraisal as provided
for in the policies, in which case the final
settlement is sometimes delayed several
days.

All conditions of policies as they exist
with the attachment forms on them, enter
into the adjustment, and are fully consid-
ered by the adjusters in the apportionments
of the loss after the amount of it has been
established. If co-insurance or average
conditions are contained in the policies, it
is necessary to determine the sound value
and average, as well as the amount of loss,
and as these values have direct bearing on
the amount to be collected by the insured
from the companies, proper steps should be
taken so that the values are correct.

Schedules and full information as to
building and equipment can be had without
charge from the nearest office of the Board
of Underwriters—The Business Man’s
Magazine,

Adjustment
of Losses

1744

weed

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No. 240
Genuine Eagle Claws

No. 232.

Genuine Eagle Claw

No. 233. Genuine Eagle Claws

Lapel Button
Genuine
Eagle Claw

Lapel Button

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No. 56. Lapel Button No, 236 No. 48 No. 237. Seal

Ours is about the only concern in the country that produces a line of High-Grade 14 K. hand-made F O. FE. and B. P. O. FE.
Charms, Rings, Lapel Buttons, etc. We do not make them in large quantities—just enough to keep our best workmen employed when not
busy on special order work.

If you want something for stock different from the conventional machine-made goods sold by everybody, or if you have a fastidious
customer who is willing to pay for an exclusive and better article than is ordinarily shown, it would be a pleasure for us to send you an assort-
ment for inspection. Our prices will be found very reasonable when quality, weight and workmanship are considered.

W &S C 103 and 105 William St., NEW YORK’ We sell these goods only
EN DELL O., 57 Washington St., CHICAGO to Retail Jewelers
PRESENTATION JEWELS, MEDALS AND BADGES MADE TO ORDER IN GOLD AND SILVER

BENEVOLENT PROTECTIVE ORDER ELKS
QO 13s se. 4 . |

lin 4, = :

ELK TEETH

October, 1905

The Origin of the Diamond

Sir William Crooks, F.R.S., the world-
famed British scientist, recently delivered a
lecture on diamonds in the city of Kimberley,
South Africa. The lecture had special interest
by reason of the eminence of the lecturer.
Sir William began by point-
ing out that from the earliest
times the diamond ‘had fasci-
nated mankind. It had
been a perennial puzzle—one of the ‘‘ riddles
of the painful earth.’’ Of late years, the
development of electricity, with the intro-
duction of the electric furnace, had facilitated
research, and if the diamond problem was
not solved, there was every probability that it
shortly would be solved. He had studied
diamonds scientificially for thirty years, and
in 1896 spent nearly a month at Kimberley
collecting facts connected with the birth of
the precious stone. After giving a detailed
description of the Kimberley mines, and
pointing out that the five mines were all con-
tained in a precious circle, three and a half
miles in diameter, Sir William said that be-
fore the discovery of the mines, there was
nothing in the superficial appearance of the
ground to indicate the precious treasures
below. Since the filling of the volcanic ducts
with diamondiferous ground, denudation had
planed the surface and the upper parts of the
craters and other ordinary signs of volcanic
activity being smoothed away, the superficial

The Riddle of
the Diamond

Special Offer to Retail Dealers

TEL. EB

and ubiquitous red sand had covered and dis-
guised the whole surface. Other diamondi-
ferous pipes in the neighborhood were small
and did not contain stones in payable quanti-
ties.

How the great pipes were
originally formed was hard
tosay. They were certainly
not burst through in the
ordinary manner of volcanic eruption, since
the surroundings and enclosing walls showed
no sigus of igneous action, and were not
scattered and broken up even when touching
the ‘‘blue ground.’’ It was pretty certain
these pipes were filled from below after they
were pierced, and the diamonds were formed
at some previous time and mixed with a mud
volcano, together with all kinds of debris
eroded from the rocks through which it
erupted, forming a geological ‘‘ plum pud-
ding.’’ It might be that each volcanic pipe
was the vent of its own special laboratory—
a laboratory buried at vastly greater depth
than they had yet reached—when the tem-
perature was comparable with that of the
electric furnace, where the pressure was
fiercer than in our puny laboratories and the
melting point higher ; where no oxygen was
present, and where masses of liquid carbon
had taken centuries, perhaps thousands of
years, to cool to the solidifying point.

The chemist arduously manufactured
infinitesimal diamonds, valueless as ornamen-
tal gems; but nature, with unlimited tem-
perature, inconceivable pressure, and gigantic

A Geological
Plum Pudding

K.E Y S$. T ON EB

17444

material, to say nothing of measureless time
and appalling energy, produced without stint
the dazzling, radiant, beautiful, coveted
crystals he was enabled to show them.

After describing the pro-
cesses by which an infinitesi-
mal diamond might be arti-
fically manufactured, Sir
William Crookes, dealing with the meteoric
theory, said he was enabled to show photo-
graphs of true diamonds he had _ himself
extracted from the Canyon Diablo meteorite.
A fine slab of the meteorite was on the table.
Here they had incontestable proof of the.
meteoric theory. Atthe same time, although
in Arizona, diamonds had fallen from the
skies, this descent of precious stones was
what might be called a freak of nature rather
than a normal occurence. It was certain
from observations he had made, corroborated
by experience gained in the laboratory, that
iron at a high temperature and under great
pressure—conditions existent at great depths
below the surface of the earth—acted as the
long-sought solvent for carbon, and would
allow it to crystalize out in the form of a
diamond. But it was also certain, from the
evidence afforded by the Arizona and other
meteorites, that similar conditions had existed
among bodies in space, and that on more
than one occasion a meteorite freighted with
jewels had fallen as a star from the sky.
Many circumstances pointed to the conclu-
sion that the diamond of the chemist and the
diamond of the mine were akin in origin.

The Meteoric
Theory

If there is no wholesale dealer in your vicinity, on
receipt of $1.00 in cash or money order, we will
send to any express office in the United States,
all charges prepaid, 1 dozen boxes, regular size

LECTR

and 100 samples for free distribution,
handsomely packed in box for counter display.
Its exceptional merit has made it famous around
the world. Used by owners and makers of
Valuable Plate for more than a quarter of a century.

ri
ine 7.

Sr aer wm aeebet E:
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vee. 4
ilicdn Co., ;

* PROKMIMTORM 6,
Sy NER Tea,»
Pe atcahonsine ote

ELECTRO-SILICON SILVER SOAP, $1.25 per Dozen.

THE ELECTRO SILICON COZ 20 CLIFF ST.5 NEW YORK

ea. Bd UA 6) AY STR SGA ®@

a A: 2 “Ale a

eA ® A *A ®* — *® A ® — @ ORAS UK ©) AS 622A KO 2 OA SS , 28 A c a Sal Sere’ AS .

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America, comprising over 1200 different models

the largest and finest line

The D’Arcy Line of Hand-Painted China

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1744 ¢

lL. BACH & CO.

A84 Broadway, NEW YORK

No. 4848 Leading Importers and Manufacturers of No. 999

A ET 21 inches ul
whieh, high, (
15i Baye 14 inches AIRY.
eyeiee wide, iit ou
sek oe 38-inch Eee
2 weal aN oa wich dial ~

Pine: PNM RT
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-) S ihr
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Cee FANCY CLOCKS
a\ ALARM CLOCKS

EVERY CLOCK STRICTLY GUARANTEED

‘Ge th VW

Ah ;
'

__
—
—_
a
-~

wUTR LAA Ae
AN

No. 4886
no.sss7 IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN GOOD AND ti
me FAST-SELLING CUCKOO CLOCKS ein

Bou WRITE FOR OUR CATALOGUE, JUST ISSUED

Ask your jobber for I. BACH’S CUCKOO CLOCKS. They give
no trouble, sell quickly and allow handsomer profits than other makes.

“OUR MOTTO”

Best Quality Attractive Designs Lowest Prices

as Tae

Pouyat (China FALL, 1905
COMBS AND BRACELETS

has gained a name

7 Ps se Fi ee This will be a COMB
for superior excel- Bese Se and BRACELET season.

: : so enn Ss gen = Rng ae ae eR We are thoroughly pre-
lence which is as

SPS: testi ako ihe pared for this, and offer
endurin yas SREY ree EP EEEEE oe: be ee ss you a line of both, in
= iN oe Pe solid gold and gold filled,
Le a ae at prices that will appeal
PRT mene ee aa to both you and your

P Ou q fi eC: Be SSS eigett : : Poe si trade.
Vy RM ing tine ciclo These, together with
China et a ee ( 8Stal complete Line

DIAMOND RINGS

bec GT re gene Sai Me JEWELRY

is durable on oe és GQ = CLIN

FESTOONS
é: HAT PINS, Etc.
You will always know it by these marks | eee ae id are now on the road.
Acard to us will bring
ON DECORATED ON WHITE our representative to
J.P. | you when in your sec-
es tion.

“on You willagree withus

These are but a Suggestion of Our Large Line of after inspecting ourlines

Combs. that we have the right
These Cuts are 34 Actual Size. goods at theright prices.

Write for handsome booklet, ‘‘ Porcelain ’’

PAROUTAUD & WATSON JULES ASCHEIM

SOLE AGENTS 37-39 Maiden Lane NEW YORK
37-39 Murray Street NEW YORK

1744a@

‘9 — —
. \*Tuck’sPost CARDS J(/)/), a
Vhs ae | vit Pes

«7 y Tee Posteannd:
ie N ne Le ge
RE whhot NAME”
Be ot TRADEMARK.
‘, HG . Gicgemap gerne O
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} for ole "7 ae OY er. = ae i
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Wee TRADEMARK Feces

$ ’

Siig wee er q

A. (Cae Con
6 Post (ss 2

So
ceo RAT»

Raphacl Tuck & Sons Company, ««

LD WILL PAY YOU TO PUT DIN A STOCK, OF

TUCK’S POST CARDS

The most welcome, artistic and up-to-date, and the most appreciated line of POST
CARDS in the WORLD.

The ** OILETTE ”’ series lead the way everywhere—unrivaled for guality, beauty
and artistic merit; the ** WIDE=WIDE WORLD”? series of picturesque views of
well-known places all over the world; a large variety of humorous designs.

The celebrated ‘* WRITE AWAY SERIES ”’ of Comic Cards, Photographs of
Stage Favorites, Flowers, Fruits, Animals, Children, Marine Views and a host of miscel-
laneous subjects.

THE TUCK POST CARD

possesses the greatest interest to collectors, for the reason that over Itve Thousand differ-
ent designs are to be found in this popular line. We make up assortments, to suit all
classes of buyers, from $10.00 upwards. A handsome Post Card Album, containing 667
Cards, all differer. for $10.00. With an initial order, amounting to |
$100.00, we send an elegant revolving display stand, as shown in
accompanying cut.

Complete lists, giving description and prices, will be sent on
application, Send for our lists now. It will pay you.

122 and 124 Fifth Avenue, New York

None genuine without
this trade-mark

L. A. LITTLEFIELD
ligh-Grade Silver-Plated

Novelties in

BON-BONS

COLLAR BOULTON, BOAES
BAT PIN BODD Ei. scntc

Patent applied for
SS ah
“Se S:

wey

THE NEW BAG

that will make your customers happy

manufacturers,

Patent pending which will be fully protected.

-NALL CATCH

A new catch for Neck Chains, Bracelets, ete. A decided
improvement on snaps, spring rings and locks; useful and or-
namental ; never breaking or getting out of order.

BE the first to CATCH ON to this useful ATTACHMENT
For sale to the Manufacturing and Jobbing Trade by the

DORAN, BAGNALL & CO.

SILVIEIR CO., Makers of

nolollowware

All goods are

GUAKAN LEED

PATA PAE. eID
BATRA DINE PUNTST

No. 468 BON-BON

Office and Factory, NEW BEDFORD, MASS.

New York: 194 Broadway CHICAGO : 67 Wabash Ave. SAN FRANCISCO: 126 Kearny St

Doran, Bagnall & Company

Successors to Young, Bagnall & Co. Established 1870

MANUFACTURERS OF

Fine Rolled Gold Plate and Sterling Stlver
Chains, Bracelets and Novelties

NOTICE Having bought a large part

nellate J, G, Puller Coe pears ween leb M

the late J. G. Fuller Co., we are

make anything in their former fine if sam- N orth Att ec OYTO, ASS.
ple is submitted.

DORAN, BAGNALL & CO.

MS
\
SS

N
N

—

Im Smokers’ Articles

A most original line. In great favor with
ladies for holiday gifts for their smoking

friends.

Meriden, Conn.

This mark Manufacturers
1s SUL gestive

of Quality

and Merit

TRADE-MARK:

gee er Co
CHICAGO ~~

HAND PAINTED

‘¢The Line of Hand-Painted China That Sells ”’

MADE BY

WHITE'S ART CO.

CHICAGO

Make no mistake in your selection of
Hand-Decorated China for the coming
Season. “Our dine of Wases, Flates:
Bowls, etc., etc., in new designs and
exquisite colorings is now ready, and
will be presented to the trade for in-
spection through our travelers and
selling agencies. You are cordially
invited to visit our studio.

WHITE’S ART CO.

sojduies Jo ouly jjey Mou
9 puv AdueSY Ujo}SeyY ANO 3B [JD 0} [Ie },UOP yYIOX MON UT UO AA

and see our sample line

When you visit the Chicago market, don’t fail to call at our Chicago agency

»*

5 ne

380 Ontario Street CHICAGO 5

pete

Chicago Agency New York Agency =
BENJ. ALLEN & CO. POSTLEY & COWEN

Wholesale Jewelers 18 Park Place =

Silversmiths’ Bldg, a

1744

daaccieane a
SRE ee I

High- Manufacturing
Grade
Modern

Jewelry

To Order

Our Specialty

Store
Fixtures
and zB State your wants
S h OW Estimates
cheerfully
C ases furnished

One of the Many Jewelry Stores Designed and Furnished by us

ALEXANDER H. REVELL & CO., Manufacturers

Rees, Dayton, Eastman Sts. and Hawthorne Ave., (ET ICAGQO. | ee ie

THE “VELVET” oy
ADJUSTABLE BRACELET | @fulitufl

(
ae Wh

Patented December 13, 1904

FITS ANY SIZE OF WRIST i el

Made in New Narrow Widths; also in Child’s Size

A simple arrangement of springs makes this
bracelet adjustable to any wrist, whatever its size
or conformation. It is thus the extreme of

Comfort, Comeliness and Security THE NEW NARROW “© VELVET’’

Made also with Signet Top

. Simple in its parts and strong in construction,
it is durable and not liable to get out of order.

_ Made in rolled-gold plate and sterling silver.
Plain or with signet or locket top.

MASON, HOWARD & CO.

New York Office Manufacturers

THE WIDE ‘* VELVET ’’
Factory Made also with Signet or Locket Top

180 Broadway Attleboro, Mass.

October, 1905

Don’ts for the New Salesman

ALESMEN are told many things they
should do; perhaps they ought to hear a
few things they should not do. If there
is one thing above all others that a sales-

man should observe it is this:

Don’t grouch! The surly sales-

Value of man who goes around carrying
Cheerfulness with him a big chunk of London

fog does himself harm. If the
sun does not wish to shine upon him—if he is hav-
ing a little run of hard luck—he should turn on
himself even with the greatest effort, a little lime-
light. He should carry a small sunshine generator
in his pocket always. The salesman who ap-
proaches his customer with a frown or a blank
look upon his face is doomed right at the start to
do no business. His countenance should be as
bright as a new tin pan.

The feeling of good cheer that the salesman
has will make his customer cheerful; and unless a
customer is feeling good he will do little, if any,
business with you.

I do not mean by this that the salesman should

have on hand a full stock of cheap jokes—and
pray, my friend, never a single shady one; noth-
ing cheapens a man so much as to tell one of
these! But he should carry a line of good, cheer-
ful, wholesome talk. ‘‘ How are you feeling?” a
customer may ask. ‘‘Had a bad cold last night,
but feel chipper as a robin this morning.’’ ‘‘ How’s
business?’’?’ a customer may inquire. ‘‘ The
world is kind to me,’’ should be the reply. The
merchant who makes a big success is the cheerful
man; the salesman who succeeds, whether on the
road or behind the counter, carries a long stock of
sunshine,
Another thing: Don’t beef!
There is a slight difference be-
tween the ‘‘grouch”’ and the
‘beef.’ The man may be
grouchy without assuming to give a reason there-
for, but when he ‘‘ beefs’’ he usually thinks there
is a cause for it. I knew a man who once lost a
good customer just because he “‘beefed’’ when a
man to whom he had sold a bill of goods counter-
manded the order.

The merchant was stretching his capital tn his
business toits limit. Things grew a little dull with
him and he figured it out, after he had placed all
of his orders, that he had bought too many goods.
He used the hatchet a little all the way around. I
had some of my order cut off, but instead of kick-
ing about it I wrote him that he could even cut
off more if he felt it was to his advantage ; that I
did not wish to load him up with more than he
could use; that, when the time came that I knew
his business better than he did, it would then be
time for me to buy him out. But a friend of mine
did not take this same turn. Instead, he wrote to
the man—and the merchant thought a good deal
of him, personally, too—that he had bought the
goods in good faith, that expense had been made
in selling the bill and that he ought to keep them.

Well, now, that was the very worst thing he
could have done, because it went against the
customer’s grain. He let his countermand stand,
aud since that time he has never bought any more
goods from his old friend. He simply marked
him off his list because it was very plain to him
that the friendship of the past had been for what
there was in it.

Don’t fail to make a friend of your fellow
galesman !

Don’t Be
Insistent

THE

This can never do you any harm and you will
find that it will often do you good. The heart of
the man on the road should be as broad as the
prairie and as free from narrowness as the Egyp-
tian sky is free from clouds. One of my friends
once told a group of us, as we traveled together,
how an acquaintance he made helped him.

*‘T got into Dayton, Washing-
ton, one summer morning about
4.30," said he. ‘‘Another one
of the boys—a big, strong, good-
natured comrade, until then a stranger to me—and
myself were the only ones left at the little depot
when the jerk-water train pulled away. It was the
first trip to this town for both of us. There was
no ’bus at the depot and we did not know just how
to get up to the hotel. The morning was fine—
such a one as makes a fellow feel good clear down
to the ground. The air was sweet with the smell
of the dewy grass. The clouds in the east—kind
of smeared across the sky—began to redden ; they
were the color of coral as we picked our way
along the narrow plank walk. As we left behind
us the bridge which crossed a beautiful little
stream lined with cottonwoods and willows, the
clouds had turned a bright vermillion. There was
not a mortal to be seen save ourselves. The only
sound that interrupted our conversation was the
crowing of the roosters. The leaves were still. It
was just the right time for the beginning of a
friendship between two strangers.

‘©¢Tsn’t this glorious !’’’ exclaimed my friend.

‘¢< Enchanting!’ I answered. I believe I
would have made friends with a crippled grizzly
bear that morning. But this fellow was a whole-
souled prince. We forgot all about business and
the heavy grips that we lugged up to the hotel
seemed light. My friend—for he had now become
that to me—and myself went out to hunt up a cup
of coffee after we had left our grips at the hotel.

An Instructive
Experience

‘“‘The next time I met that man
was at the Pennsylvania Station
at Philadelphia, ten years after-
ward.

***God bless you!’’’ said he.
memiber me?’

‘“¢ You bet your life I do!’ saidI. ‘We walked
together one morning ten years ago, from the depot
at Dayton, Washington, to the hotel.’ ‘Do you
remember that sunrise?’ ‘Well do 1?’ ‘What
are you doing down here?’ ‘Oh, just down on

The Sequel
Ten Years After

‘Do you re-

business. The truth is I am going over to New
York. My house failed recently and I’m on the

lookout for a job.’

‘And boys, that very fellow fixed me up the
next morning with the people that I am with
to-day.”’

Again: Don’t fail to be friendly with anyone
who comes in your way.

You bet your life it never hurts a fellow to be
friendly with anybody. Once, when I was going
down from a little Texas town to Galveston, the
coach was rather crowded. The only vacant seats
in the whole car were where two Assyrian peddler
women sat in a double seat with their packs of
wares opposite them. But as I came in they very
kindly put some of their bundles into the space
underneath where the backs of two seats were
turned together, thus making room for me. | sat
down with them. A gentleman behind me re-
marked: ‘‘ Those people aren’t so bad, after all.”’
‘Ves,’ I said, ‘‘ you will find good in every one if
you only know how to get it out.”

I had a long and interesting talk with that
gentleman. He gave me his card, and when I saw
his name I recognized it as that of a noted lecturer.

K B.Y STON &

17448

“Well what good did that do you”’ said one
of the boys who was not far-seeing.

Good? Why, that man asked me to come to

his home. There I met one of his sons who was
an advertising man for a very large firm in Galves-
ton. He in turn introduced me to the buyer in his
store and put ina good word with him for me. I
had never before been able really to get that
buyer’s attention, but this led me into a good
account. You know I don’t care anything for
introductions where I can get at a man without
them. I’d rather approach a man myself straight
out than to have any one introduce me to him, but
there are cases where you really cannot get at a
man without some outside influence. This was a
case where it did me good.
But with all this, don’t depend
upon your sold fimends!) Ax
salesman’s friends feel that
when he approaches them he
does so because they are his friends, and not
because he has goods to sell that have value.
They will not take the same interest in his mer-
chandise that they will in those of a stranger.
They wil] give him, it is true, complimentary
orders, charity-bird bills, but these are not the
kind that count. Every old man on the road will
tell you that he has lost many customers by mak-
ing personal friends of them. No man, no matter
how warm a friend his customer may be, should
fail, when he does business with him, to give him
to understand that the goods he is getting are
worth the money that he pays forthem. This will
make a business friendship built upon confidence,
and the business friend may afterward become the
personal friend.

A personal friendship will often follow a busi-

Make New
Friends

ness friendship, but business friendship will not

always follow personal regard. Every man on the
road has on his order book the names of a few
who are exceptions to this rule. He values these
friends because the general rule of the road is:
‘‘ Make a personal friend—lose a customer !”’

Don’t switch lines !

The man who has a good house should never
leave it unless he goes with one that he knows to
be much better and with one that will assure hima
good salary for a long time. Even then a man
often makes a mistake, to his sorrow. He will
find that many whom he has thought his personal
friends are merely his business friends; that they
have bought goods from him because they have
liked the goods he sold. It is better fora man to
try to improve the line he carries—even though it
may not suit him perfectly—than to try his luck
with another one. Merchants are conservative.
They never put in a line of goods unless it strikes
them as being better than the one they are carry-
ing, and when they have once established a line of
goods that suits them, and when they have built a
credit with a certain wholesale house they do not like
to fly around, because the minute that they switch
from one brand of goods that they are carrying to
another, the old goods have become to them mere
job lots, whereas, if they continue to fill in upon a
certain brand, the old stock would remain just as
valuable as the new.

Don’t fall on prices !

The man who does this will not gain the confi-
dence of the man to whom he shows his goods.
Without this he cannot sella merchant successfully.

Don’t carry side lines !

You might just as well mix powder with saw-
dust. If you scatter yourself from one force to an-
other you weaken the force which you should

put into your one line.
—Charles N. Crewdson, in Saturday E: ening Post.

TR NONE TI Oe bs 0s

YOU
CAN SECURE THAT
CLASS PIN ORDER
BY SHOWING
| QUR DESIGNS AND SAMPLES.
| WE. ARE HEADQUARTERS.

WRITE TO EITHER FACTORY.
| WENDELL & COMPANY,

\ 103-105 WILLIAM ST.
: NEW YORK.

Ks 5/ WASHINGTON ST.

CHICAGO.

) ee :
4 bi ;

October, 1905

The Die-Sinker

The part which the die-sinker fulfills in the
successful production of silver and plate is a duty
that demands much thought, artistic ability and
no end of patience, says H. L. Clulee, head of the
die-cutting department of R. Wallace & Sons
Mfg. Co., Wallingford, Conn.

From the plain block of steel to the finished
die, the process is one of the most interesting con-
nected with the silversmith’s craft. From times
far back in history the use of a die or mold for the
duplication of coins, medals and all articles of use
and ornament has been the means employed to
gain that end. Crude as at first some of these
efforts were, the art has grown until at the present
time it is looked upon as almost the only method
of producing artistic silverware in duplicate.

In the making of a spoon as far back as 1835,
when Robert Wallace first started in the business,
the die consisted of a small block of steel with just
the tip of the handle cut into it. This was placed
on an anvil, and a man holding the spoon: in one
hand, struck the impression of the tip on to the
blank by the means of a hammer held in the other
hand. After much forging and filing the spoon
was ready for the shaping of the bowl, which was
accomplished in about the same way. From that
small beginning the process has gradually grown,
until it requires a drop hammer of nearly a thou-
sand pounds weight and a pair of dies upon which
a great amount of skill and labor has been expended
to produce the result attained at the present day.

You will readily see how much depends on
good die-cutting. One may have a beautiful de-
sign, a most carefully worked out model, and yet

Hennecke’s Statuary

TY EE

if the work of the designer and modeler is not
faithfully carried out the result will not be satis-
factory. It is a study in progress to follow the
productions of the first patterns in spoon work up
to those of the present day, noting the change
from simple ornamentation as first used to the
elaborate creations of the modern silversmith.

How Rouge Is Made

For the final polishing of metals, or ‘‘color-
ing,’’ as it is usually called, it has been found that
rouge is the most satisfactory of any known material.
As most of the examples of fine metal work origi-
nated in France, it is natural that the name of
‘‘rouge,’’ which in the French language means red,
should be applied to this red polishing material.

Rouge occurs in commerce in two forms: First,
dry rouge; second, rouge in sticks or cakes. The
sticks or cakes of rouge are made from the dry
rouge by incorporating it with tallow, wax or other
forms of binders. This is simply to holdit together
so that it may be applied to the buffing wheel ina
convenient manner. The dry rouge is also used
for many purposes.

Chemically, rouge is an oxide of iron. Red
iron ore or hematite is of the same composition,
but this is very hard and would not answer for
polishing purposes. The surface of the metal
would be scratched, both by the hard oxide of iron
itself and also by the sand or other silicious material
which is always associated withit. Polishing rouge,

therefore, is made in another manner.
Sulphate of iron, or green vitriol as it is
frequently called, occurs in commerce in a very

WATCH

KE YS TON & 17447

cheap and pure condition. It is formed in large
quantities as a by-product in the pickling of iron
and steel wire in its manufacture. Sulphuric acid
(oil of vitriol) is used for the pickling, and the
sulphate of iron is crystallized out of the pickling
vats. It will be appreciated, therefore, that the
sulphate of iron when it is made in this manner
is not a costly material. It is for this reason that
rouge is not costly.

When this sulphate of iron or green vitriol is
heated, the sulphuric acid is gradually given off as
the temperature is increased until finally all the
acid is expelled and only oxide of iron isleft. The
hardness of the oxide of iron (or rouge which it
now is) depends upon the heat. The hotter it is
heated, the harder the rouge; and, for this reason,
the hard rouges for polishing nickel require a much
higher temperature than those which are to be used
on copper or brass.

The rouge which has heated to a low temper-
ature is scarlet in color, and is knownas ‘‘jewelers’
rouge’’ and is sufficiently soft for polishing gold
and silver. That which has been heated to a high
temperature is of a bluish tint and is very hard. It
is called ‘‘crocus’’ and is used for polishing steel.
The intermediate grades are used for copper, brass
and nickel.

The rouge is mixed with any convenient
material for a binder, but the best forms of binders
are substances which are not difficult to remove
after buffing. A mixture of equal parts of tallow
and yellow soap is excellent, as it does not resist
the fish-soap solution or other compound which is
used to remove the rouge which remains in the

crevices of the work after buffing.
—The Brass World.

GLOVES

Price, $1.25 per dozen

EXCLUSIVE SUBJECTS Made ot the best glove kid

| with celluloid front, fits closely
NEW EFFECTS AND FINISHES :
to the watch and is the best

A
| | | < AMD

i \ % watch protector ever devised.
ui HHH Wil Hi lk Ui) " Mi SS
Ne!

For sale by

Producers of the
only Figh-Grade

\ ul :

Hil ay WH it
WHY i IK, i il | il
| iI I i H i ah i ih | A Hi

F. W. H. SCHMIDT

Wholesale Jewelry, Tools, Materials and
Optical Goods

1104 Heyworth Bldg., CHICAGO, ILL.

Statuary on the
Market

ESTABLISHED 186s

FAN S
For Holiday and Wedding Presents

Made especially for the Jewelry Trade

CATALOGUE ON REQUEST

From the Studios of

C. Hennecke Company
Milwaukee, Wis.

LOUIS STEINER, Importer

520-522 Broadway, New York

Guve

ieee e _ 5 Silver Polish
Sarre) IS THE BEST

ere BLE ;

for Jewelers to handle—it is a
quick seller and positively

Patented April 20, 1897, Feb, 21, 1899, Sept. 29, 1903

In Frink’s Special Patent Window Reflector

Because it offers the only thoroughly satisfactory method

of lighting your store windows. It is built of metal, lined : :

with silver corrugated glass set on scientific angles, so ( ANDO... 1S made to perfection.

that all the light is thrown on the goods displayed; yet ; .

concealed from the sidewalk. The successful experience ye . C1 , ; y

of hundreds of merchants should be a guarantee that M C call special attention to the I1Y1-
Frink Reflectors are needed by you.

superior to any known polish on_ the
Gare, [he patent cap used om jar ior

portance of a package for Silver Polish
Some Stores We Have Lighted ~ ~ ~ ° .
5 that can be RESEALED atter it ae

Littles, sew York Lambert, New York

Jno. C. Pierik, Springfield, I. EK. P. Sundberg, Fargo, N. Dak.

Theo. A, Kohn, New York Schwartz Bros., New York as . ~ . |
Shaw & Berry Co., Washington, D. C. J. S. Lewis & Co., Ogden, Utah once opened.
J. Ehrlich’s Sons, 'New York Marcus & Co., New York

Simons & Co., New H: aven, Conn, Bancroft Bros., Columbus, Ohio

. Barthm: ‘ *k Collamo N York . ; ai is
Wm. Barthman, New York ollamore’s, New Yor Samples sent when requested. Correspondence solicited

Catalogue No. 45 shows our line for stores
S 3)

I. P. FRINK, 2,22" New York PAUL MFG. CO.

» Street,
Boston, Mass.

Finely

SAMS’ “00 OUR IMPROVED BEST OF ALL gi Pree: $5°
SAFETY = : ROLLER REMOVER a nickel-plated

TTand Piece Our Never Equaled Patent applied for

BLOWPIPE OUTFIT ; Pivot Drill Chuck
FOR JEWELERS Py 2 2 and Drilling Device
SN fl Once used, you would not be

yoak war, JULY 7 as ? f = ' ne S ~) ae | Z
BS sec e rhe original Sams’— | ie without it for five times its cost.
: ( sreatly improved ; i Hi i 4} ’ } | - ” ——— _) ~~ Description of Tool. pa = A is
= oe <4 5 = milled band to clutch in screwing
FOR SALE BY ALL JOBBERS ; Ki down set nut B which holds Pivot
Drill in poattlont C is back center bes veo fits tail stock of lathe. DY shows Saget ae entering
=) ee ~ r = 1 OC, or tail-stock spindle. Place Pivot Drill in countersink in the staff to be drilled ’ush up tail-
) ies es
Outfit ae lete Fesve ” oe A stock spindle and set thumb-screw, and as the drill enters the staff the opening between Cand D
Outfit wit 10ut bel OWS, 8.50 f shows the depth you have drilled. This device also lessens the breakage. Price, 75 cents.
Gretieracor 15a ue 6.00 We also furnish best quality of Pivot from 4 to 30 thousandth for 30 cents per dozen, Order
s Hi : f either from us or your jobber. In ordering, mention name and kind of lathe used. We also manu-
Sane BIve i ) (C . 2.50 ea ; rf facture tools fay watchmakers, jewelers and opticians. Write us for estimates.
O nj Hitt ys ek °
Sams’ F oe ). ge Ba aul 1M | 2 SSSSSSL-_-SL_S====_===S_EZ=ZZ===px# Our New
Ss ee | : == Crown Enlarging Tool
4 : : tte Reali | = ht — This tool sells for $1.00, and will
y Metal Specialties Mfg. Co. Ji AY <= SSS enlarge inside of crowns from small

(Sole Mfrs.) Gin ~ es F swiss to 18 size. Nickel-plated.

18-24 W. Randolph St., CHICAGO en Size yg DETROIT WATCH TOOL CO., 516 Michigan Ave., Detroit, Mich.
high, 544” diam.

, ——~ sy

ww. PES

SAMS’ FLUX

We are now offering our entire 1905 sample line of

Bric=-a=Brac, Bronze and Metal Goods
KI GRBATLY REDUCE PRICES
Special Offer for this fall on our HAND=PAINTED CHINA.

Send for particulars and Illustrated Catalogues of China, Statuary, Steins, ete.

When in New York, call and see 1. Ww . LEVY & CO.

us at our NEW location—largest 580-582 Broadway
floor in town devoted to Novelties
for Jewelers New York

17442

THIBY ES

foiled by

Clipper-Proof Stud

The piece of carbon steel shown by the arrows 1s not
visible in the stud.

The clipper-proof stud absolutely prevents diamond studs
from being nipped by thieves.

A cutting pler will break before the stud.

No jeweler should be without 1t.

We are the Selling Agents Send for Sample

Jewelry Watches Diamonds

If you have not seen our line send
for selection package

EVERYTHING NEW AND UP TO DATE

Aller-Newman-Wilmes Jewelry Co.

Globe-Democrat Building ST. LOUIS, MO.

1744 /

long list of new customers.

Every jeweler in the country
has more or less money tied up
in ‘‘dead stock.’’ Once ‘‘dead”’
it’s always ‘‘dead.’’ And each
season makes its addition to
the accumulation of bygone
years. This is the millstone
about the neck of your business
that is slowly but surely drag-
ging it down into bankruptcy
—possibly so slowly that you
will not realize it until it is too
late. But sooner or later the
time will come when this
“dead stock’’ will sell you out
unless you have been fortunate
enough to appreciate the evil
in time, and sell z/ out.

We are ‘‘dead stock”’ ex-
perts. We can sell, without
misrepresentation, all the goods
that you find ‘‘unsalable *’’—
expensive bric-a-brac, hollow-
ware, small out-of-date jewelry,
etc., and in doing so can place
from $2,000 to $5,000 a week
in your cash drawer.

We succeed in satisfying
both buyer and seller. The
result is that when we com-
plete your sale we leave you a
Let us send you some valuable

information in the form of testimonial letters from jewelers
who have brushed away the cobwebs of prejudice and in-
dulged in a ‘‘M. & T. Business House-Cleaning.”’ This
information is worth money to you. Write for it to-day,
stating the size and condition of your stock, and whether
there have been any auctions in your town recently,

Mitchell & Tillotson

ey Maiden Lane

JEWELRY AUCTIONEERS

New York City

H. J.
HOOPER

Auctioneer

There is°no stock too large or too mne put

give ref-

what I will guarantee a profit, and can g

erence to that effect from almost every State in
the Union. With my 22 years’ experience, it has
enabled me to give you this iron-clad guarantee.

Write me. All letters strictly confidential.

H. J. HOOPER

22 John Street, New York City

MANOR & McCONNELL

America’s Premier Jewelry Auctionccecrs
1016 Main Street, KANSAS CITY, MO.

Sales made in any part
of the English-speaking
world for the legitimate
jewelry trade.

If you contemplate
holding a sale of your
jewelry stock in the near
future, we would advise
that you write us for
Upon appli-
cation, we will mail you
our Booklet on Auctions,
containing references, etc.

No stock too large or
fine for us to successfully

handle.

terins, Cc:

Address

MANOR & McCONNELL

1016 Main Street, Kansas City, Mo.

Long Distance Phone 1765

St. Louis, Mo., Office—Room 634 Century Building
Long Distance Phone 1175C Kinlock

Always keep an eye on th’ feller th’t offers t’ help you bunco somebody else 1744
SA ee Car a ee eee ale a ea ee

Good References

Gained by honesty and profit sales count with
business men.

Methods

Requiring a lifetime study of conducting sales,
goes with the wide-awake jeweler.

Reputation

When built by years of hard work, is priceless
to the

AUCTIONEER who never has had a failure
E. R. TYLER

156 Wabash Avenue
Chicago

August and September

Otto P. Ream, Hartford City, Ind.
J. B. Haverback, St. Marys, Ohio.
J. C. Slick, Mishawaka, Ind.

Room IlO2

Write the above firms as to my methods of con-
ducting sales and the profits I make for my customers.

CORRESPONDENCE CONFIDENTIAL BEST OF REFERENCES

America’s Most Successful Auctioneer

I not only guarantee a suceessful sale, but also that you will stand just as
high in the community as a result of the AUCTION, and that your business
subsequent to the sale will be better than before.

AUCTIONS as conducted by me are business-building as well as money-
making. Asa proof of this I give below a list of jewelers, both in the United
States and Canada, for whom I have conducted sales. Write me for full
particulars.

Hesse & Sturges, Boise, Idaho
Geo. E. Feagans, Joliet, Ill.

L. L. Berens, Bellingham, Wash.
Frisch Brothers, Seattle, Wash.
A. C. Becken, Chicago, Ill., 3 sales
Strelitz Bros., Chicago, Ill.

Bb. H. Balard, Reinbeck, Iowa
A. Jackson, Eau Claire, Wis.

J. Iverson, Stevens Point, Wis.
P. H. Kuhn, Quiney, Il.
Porterfield Bros., Sanborn, Iowa
H. C. Clamor, Elmira, N. Y.

R. M. HARDING

CHICAGO, ILE.

156 Wabash Avenue

David W. Allen & Co., Montreal, Canada
Drake Carie & Co., Davenport, lowa
Jos. Brown & Co., Chicago, Ll.

Price Keeth & Co., Chicago, Ill.

T. L. Coughlan, St. John, N. B.

K. Bezanson, Moncton, N. B.

K. Bezanson, Sydney, Cape Breton

C. L. Newman, Halifax, N. S.

Fair & Square Jewelers, Joliet, Ill.

J. Merrel & Co., Anaconda, Mont.

W. C. Stull, Whatcom, Wash.

IF. A. Reynolds, San Francisco, Cal.
A. H. Simons, St. Paul, Minn.

L. Blumencrance, Minneapolis, Minn.
M. Greenburg, Minneapolis, Minn.

L. Zuckerman, Chicago, Ill.

—_—

Randel & Bennet, Colorado Springs, Colo.

Cutting & Wilson, Winona, Minn.
M. Greenburg, Chicago, Ill.

D. A. Hank, Logansport, Ind.

J. C. Hilton, Neena, Wis.

P. H. Pierce, Lawrence, Kans.

J. W. Clegg & Co., Charleston, Il.
EF. F. Kirchkessner, Adrian, Mich.
P. K. Wiser, Mankato, Minn.

J. G. Hoff & Son, Waterloo, Iowa, 3 sales
B. Vancot, Madison, Wis.

A, Sakie, Crookston, Minn.

T. C. Lindsey, Dayton, Ohio

Hart & Ernest, Tiffin, Ohio

G. R. Thompson, Findlay, Ohio
L. D. Dana, Antigo, Wis.

F. J. Nerham, Nevada, lowa

W. H. Hilton, Denison, Texas

C. W. Dudgens, Ames, Iowa

A. L. Cleaver, Ames, Iowa

A. L. Cleaver, Boone, Iowa

H. J. Whitley, Los Angeles, Cal.
H. Hinges, Salem, Oregon

J. C. Long, Kane, Pa.

S. Goldstone, St. Louis, Mo.

C. Veicht, Milwaukee, Wis., 2 sales

8S. Whipple, Trinidad, Colo,

J. McNamara, Lakewood, N. J.
Hooker Jewelry Co., Des Moines, Iowa
W. T. Testen, Houston, Texas

Goodspeed & Co., Colorado Springs, Colo.

Parker Bros., Sterling, Colo.

W. C. Alexander, Salida, Colo.
Trinkley & Koerber, Fort Wayne, Ind,
A. J. Reinhardt, Lincoln, T1., 2 sales
Keppler Jewelry Co., Anaconda, Mont.
J. Merel, Seattle, Wash.

C. W. Underwood, Racine, Wis.

A. C. Bechtel, Ogden, Utah

W. A. Kirkham, Leavenworth, Kans.
{. S. Smith, Sherman, Texas

EK. M. Blakely, Trenton, Ont.

F. C. Boerner, Fort Worth, Texas
Brock & Feagans, Los Angeles, Cal.
Berre Brothers, Winnipeg, Man.
Bonnet & Ross Co., Columbus, Ohio
Davis Jewelry Co., Lansing, Mich.
New Haven Clock Co., Chicago, II.
International Silver Co., Chicago, Ill.
Wm. A. Rogers Co., Chicago, Ill.
Sproehnle & Co., Chicago, Ill.

Geo. 5. Davis, Newton, Iowa

J. R. Lucas, Rockwell City, Iowa
Berry Bros., Clarksville, Tenn.

California Jewelry Co., San Francisco, Cal.

M. Schussler & Co., San Francisco, Cal.

Holsman & Alter, Chicago, Ill.

A. L. Kingsbury, 206 Kearny Street,
San Francisco, Cal.

A. M. Smythe, Elgin, Ill.

Hesse & Sturges, Boise, Idaho

A. G, Bedford, Ionia, Mich,

t
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Ask your jobber to show them to you.

THE CRESCENT WATCH CASE CoO.
Main Office, 21 Maiden Lane, New York

* MARK. * MARK.
TRADE TRADE

Have You Ever Paid Good Money for a
Correspondence Course in Optics and
Found That it was Simply a List of
QOuestions—Nothing More ?

Our correspondence course is not conducted in that way.
The questions that we ask are the least important part of our system.

We devote one hundred and eighty closely typewritten pages to lectures and
explanations and practical illustrations.

Instead of asking the student what he would do in certain cases we TEACH
him what to do.

We talk to him and answer his questions and explain each point to him just as if
J

he were right here with us.

We do not leave him until he is fully qualified to handle satisfactorily any case
of refractive error that may come to him.

With the exception of one small text book there are no books or literature required
The lessons themselves cover the entire ground.

We have spent more time and money to perfect our system than has ever been
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That is the reason why we have more graduates than any two other colleges
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It is the reason why our students everywhere are doing better and more perfect
optical work than their competitors.

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The South Bend College of Optics

(Incorporated )

No. 1 McDonald Building South Bend, Indiana, U.S.A.

October, 1905 At

My Opal: and Sunsets

BY JOHN TWEEZER

Chief among my scant personal posses-
sions of value (outside some rare books in
my library) is an unset, irregularly-shaped
opal, the charm of which, to all who have
seen it, is in its suggestion. It is unique—
a dream of lambent color. Rainbows glow
on its face and drift across when it is moved;
fires burning in spaces that mathematics may
disprove, but that lie a mile below the stone,
shine upward eerily and break in flame-
flowers; now it is a splendor of the deep,
pure, vibrant red of the prism; now it light-
ens to orange; then a tender blue, like June
skies, shoaling into turquoise, is seamed with
gold; now it shines green, like moss in sun-
light, with purples misting at the edges; now
its lights dance and gleam through the whole
gamut of the possibilities of color—which

may be a faulty figure of speech, but what

will you when the color itself suggests
music? In one light it sets you a-dreaming

of quiet pools and sedges; in another you
think of a phosphorescent sea under the
stars; but in another (and in this last quality
I find its best account) you see the sunsets
of October. My opal is a joy because so
many sunsets abide in it.

But all the opal holds, and thousandfold
more, 1s anyone’s without the asking. Look
up, man, and let your starved eyes revel in
the pageant. Look up at the gorgeous
spectacle, so full of mystery and invitation.
Look quickly and all over, while you can;
for sunsets are precious because they are so
brief. We could not endure them constantly;
they would be too stimulating. The exceed-
ing and superlative is only fit for occasion;
Nature, in her wisdom, chooses an average
for man.
food and the brilliant sunsets only for des-

She gives us the blue sky for daily
sert. Such pleasures and profits of beauty
cannot last—they would cease to be such if
they did. Drop your tool and your pen and
your care and share them when they offer.
They may be the only bits of heaven you can
be sure of.

The power of sunset is not merely the
power of beauty, rare and precious as that is;
it is the power of freedom that it gives to
the beholder—the compulsion to enter great
spaces. One is calmed by this opening of
heaven's gates at nightfall. If only we had
not taken on this habit of caring for the
morrow! If only we could be saved from
thinking upon our stomach, our rent and
We

are but little people, even the biggest of us.

our sins, what liberty we might enjoy !

There is in man just so much room, no more.
If he troubles about the morrow, he loses
peace now.

Things splendid, lovely and
Beauty, rich,
vast, serious, romantic, floods the earth with
ruddy tints as the light strikes through these

Look up.

grotesque offer to our vision.

oriels of vapor. Now the cirro-stratus takes
on its oranges and crimsons, kindling at
lakes of molten gold, while the far-off lean
moon seems foreign. Kites have flown two
miles above the earth; men. have climbed
four miles and risen in balloons to seven; yet
how easily the fancy swims up past them all,
unchilled in the weak upper air, unscared by
the black spaces that open behind the blue,
untired of wing, unstrained of sight, and
floats on cloud-cars of gold and silver, ivory
aud pearl, ruby and rose-leaf, amethyst and
opal !

Therefore, look up and see the October
sunsets. then seems not far,

and the sight of it, though it comes as we

For heaven

plod the streets, kindles answering beams of
hope, of joy, of love, of wonder, in our
souls. How poor the richest are if they
cannot use this wealth! What riches fall to
to the poorest if they will lift their eyes to
take them from the sunset sky !

How to Take a Vacation Without
Leaving the Store

Simply let your mzzzd vacate; and change
your points of view.

A successful man once said, ‘‘I can sit
in my chair for an hour and never think
once.’’ He could secure a vacation at any

time, on call.

Emptying the mind frequently is a
There is too much
striving, studying, thinking about gain and

wholesome practice.

being ina hurry makes us think sad. If
Socrates had lived out at Piraeus and had
to catch the 8.42 every morning for Athens;
and if Plato had bolted his chops while
watching his clepsydra; there would nave
been two philosophers the less though both
men had lived a century longer.

The bothering over details is ‘‘the
Take

a broader view; then the little things will fall

chiefest sin’’ of the man at the head.
into groups and the needless things drop out
of sight. Wedo not really count for much
until we have broken some of the rules and
made them over to fit our ideas, or found
how to do without them entirely. A real
physician can practice medicine with only ten
drugs. A very famous painter used only
seven colors, all told—but he mixed Grazns

with his pigments.

Change your habitual points of view.
Get outside cof yourself, and the bricks will
not seem so full of trouble as even they now
are to your jaundiced eye. Keep your eyes

KEYS TONE

1745

on far prospects—your thoughts will clamber
after them, or else the sun will get into them
and the bad ones go a-dozing like the bats
and owls. Ask yourself, ‘‘ What will my
present trouble matter in a hundred years ?”’
And recall some unfortunate who has a worse
trouble, and be comforted.

Caught in the Cobwebs of an Empty
Skull

There are seventy-seven ways, or more,
of going from this place to that, but there is
only one straight path.

We hear of the advantages of fore-sight
and the lessons of hind-sight; but no men-
tion is made of side-sight. Yet he who looks
onan action from the side is generaily the
largest gainer of all. |

Experience is the wet-nurse of knowledge.

It isn’t the number of things you think
you know that counts, but how well you
know the things you know.

To tabulate the varieties of ways at your
disposal for making a fool of yourself would
bankrupt the whole numerical system.

The death of the best man in the com-
munity is no loss to the undertaker that
coins him. In the burning of any great
building there is immediate profit to the men
whose business is to cart away rubbish. The
storm which lays low the fine old shade trees
makes money for the workman with an axe.
There is no such thing asa universal calamity
—there is compensation to some one for
every loss to another. Somehow there is
always a smile nearly, whenever a sob is
heard, and some answering’ satisfactions in
the shadow of every distress. ‘‘’Tis an ill
wind blows no one good.”’

Falling leaves—falling prices: There’s

the germ of a suggestion for an October
window.

a ———

If Today knew Tomorrow’s program
there would be no sad Yesterdays.

Some men never feel at home with them-
selves unless they are unhappy.

—

Tell me what he does with his spare
time, and I'll pretty accurately gage his
future progress. Jinks

1746

The
Phoroscope

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—

Reviews of Current Ophthalmo-
logical Literature of the World

Eyestrain and Nervous Disorders.
Reply to Dr. Dana’s Critical Paper

Not long ago we reviewed in these
columns a paper of Dr. Dana, in which he
severely criticized the view that eyestrain
could be responsible for almost every ailment
of the human flesh. At that time we stated
that, in our opinion, many ophthalmologists
were going too far when they accepted the
assertions of Dr. G. M. Gould without a
great deal of reserve, but that at the same
time there could be no doubt that many
cases with nervous disorders could be im-
proved very frequently by the correction of
their refractive errors. We now reprint here
an editorial from the August number of the
Ophthalmic Record, which appears to come
from the pen of Dr. Francis Valk, of New
York, and, on the whole, agrees with the
views expressed in these columns:

In a recent editorial in one of our medical
journals we find this statement: ‘‘ Of late the view
has been widely and insistently promulgated that
eyestrain is responsible for many, if not the
majority, of the physical ills to which flesh is heir.”’
The writer of this would decidedly object to any
such sweeping statement as that, nor can he see
any reason why it should be made ina reputable
medical journal. As this editorial is read it seems
to have been based upon a sort of one-sided sym-
posium on eyestrain at a meeting of the ophthalmic
section of the New York Academy of Medicine,
held under the auspices of the academy itself.
The writer was present at that meeting, and as far
as hisremembrance extends the discussion was not
participated in by any very prominent ophthal-
mologist. The papers read were by two neurolo-
gists and only one by an oculist. Furthermore, as
one listened to the reading of the papers and to
the discussion that followed, the entire spirit of the
occasion seemed to be of a certain levity, rather
out of place in a scientific meeting, which was
principally directed against the writings of one
member of the profession who has been perhaps
too extravagant in his published work, and whose
enthusiasm over some of his wonderful cures has
led him to make very extravagant claims which
others have not been able to find or fulfill in their
ophthalmic work. The remarks of the speakers
would have led a hearer to suppose that this gen-
tleman was a leader in the profession of ophthal-
mology, and that his teachings were the principles
of that branch of medicine at the present time, but
this writer seriously objects to any assumption of
that sort, and that Dr. Dana’s concluding “‘ pun-
gent’’ remarks as quoted in the same paper:
‘The psychosis connected with eyestrain is that
shown by a group of oculists who have become
obsessed with the idea that eyestrain forms the
background of most pathological conditions,’’ has
no justification in the work of the best oculists,
nor can it be considered as the true conception of
this subject by the oculist of the present day.

Ophthalmology, in its best sense, is a true
science, in which [ am inclined to think we are yet
on the threshold, particularly so in reference to the
motility of the eyes, and if this work is yet in an
experimental stage, then any such extravagant
solution as is implied in the editorial referred to
finds no justification in the opinion of this writer.
But what was the evident conclusion of Dr. Dana’s

paper on that occasion? It seemed to me that in
reference to the minor psychoses, eyestrain may
play a very important part, even sometimes as a
direct factor in certain mental conditions, and that
it frequently is a contributing cause, inasmuch that,
in many reflex conditions referable to the head,
eyestrain, either refractive or muscular, is fre-
quently the only cause. But all this does not imply
that we have a pathological condition present. I
think this may be considered as the view of most
oculists in this country, and the proposition ‘‘that
itis a potent factor in many serious diseases”’’ is
simply a supposition that must exist in the mind of
one who has not informed himself of the true work
that the oculists are now doing. This writer would
assure him that the oculists of the present day are
not vexed with the idea that eyestrain is the cause
of any pathological conditions, but that they are
trying to know just what influence an eyestrain,
either refractive or muscular, may have on the
minor psychoses, either primary or secondary, and
simply according to the limits to which Dr. Dana
himself accepts, as he has acknowledged that some
cases of minor psychoses may be due to the eye-
strain.

One of our most prominent alienists stated to
this writer that he did believe that eyestrain may
have some influence on certain conditions, but put
great stress on this remark: ‘‘ When there 1s eye-
strain!’ Now, who shall settle that question, the
oculist or the neurologist? The matter will even-
tually adjust itself to the true value, and until that
time comes it will be well for most of us to restrain
our views until we know what the correction of
eyestrain will and will not do. Be ONG

What are the So-called Reflexes which
can be Properly Referred to
E yestrain ?

This interesting question was discussed
at the last annual meeting of the American
Ophthalmological Society, at Boston, Mass.
Dr. Lucien Howe, Buffalo, stated in his
paper that he had sent out 206 letters, in
which he had asked prominent ophthalmolo-
gists regarding the reflexes which should be
properly referred to eyestrain, and had re-
ceived 105 replies. He considered the crite-
ria by which to decide whether or not a
given symptom might properly be regarded
as of reflex origin and divided the reflexes
into three groups: those which manifested
themselves in the eye itself, those that showed
themselves in the accessory muscles of accom-
modation, and finally those which occurred
in other portions of the body. The doctor
stated there was still a great deal of confu-
sion, especially regarding the systemic re-
flexes, and that twenty of his confreres had
not seen any of these reflexes. He thought
it very desirable that there should be a more
accurate definition of symptoms and disease,
and that there should be perfect agreement
about definite criteria in this direction. He
believed that there was great need of a patient
investigation of the subject, instead of the
dogmatic statements which were simply re-
peated so frequently. This somewhat nega-
tive attitude of Dr. Howe was to some extent
counterbalanced by Dr. B. Alex. Randall, of
Philadelphia, who stated that he was not

(1747)

Sam EN

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Ap i Mts

ft fw aa Hy
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prepared to bring forward statistics, nor to
make any startling assertions with regard to
reflex disturbances due to eyestrain, but he
was very confident of the existence of such
conditions; anatomical lesions in retina, the
chorioid and other portions of the eye, as
well as various reflex neuroses, as a result of
eyestrain. He had never seen epilepsy cured
by this relief, but he had seen it so mitigated
that patients practically ceased to have at-
tacks. He thought that if those who doubted
would consider the matter further and care-
fully, they would recongnize that such things
do exist.

A Worm in the Anterior Chamber
of the Eye

That sometimes an insect will succeed in
laying an egg in the eye, is again shown by
the following interesting case of Dr. Ewet-
zky. His case was that of a boy of five and
a half years, who had signs of inflammation
in one eye, lasting for a week, and relapsing
for a short time, after a month’s free inter-
val. Four months later there was found epis-
cleral injection, particularly below, with opacity
of the corresponding segment of the cornea,
posterior synechia, contracted pupil, which did
not react to atropine, and in the lower portion
of the anterior chamber a worm, which moved
actively, although not directly visible. After
the operative removal of the worm, which
was found to be the larva of a fly of undeter-
mined species, recovery rapidly took place.
E—— considers it possible that the larva
was that of hypoderma bovis, a fly that is
found on the skin of cows.

“Ophthalmic Neuro-Myology ”

The writings of Dr. G. C. Savage are
not new to the readers of these columns.
His latest contribution to ophthalmology
treats of the normal and abnormal actions of
the ocular muscles from the brain side of the
question in a small volume of 220 pages.
He here restates and upholds his former
views about the rotation of the eyeball. It
seems to the reviewer that the author’s views
suffer very much from the assumption that
the eyeball is a mathematical sphere, which
makes him utter such statements like the
following (page 5): ‘‘ Since the equator is a
line equally distant at all points from the two
poles, the equatorial plane must be at right
angles to the axis and must cut it at its cen-
tral point. This point in the eye is the center
of rotation.’’ Now the question is, not
where the center of rotation ought to be, but
where it really is. This can be established
only by experiments, such as have been
made by Donders, Volkmann, Mauthner,
etc., and these have shown that this point
lies one to two millimeters behind the center

(Continued on page 1749)

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Reviews of Current Ophthalmo-
logical Literature of the World

(Continued from page 1747)

of the optic axis, and that besides with the
elevation of the visual plane the point of
rotation recedes somewhat from the cornea.
It will not do, therefore, to simply postulate
that the center of the axis must be the center
of rotation when experiments have shown
the incorrectness of that view. But the
book makes very interesting reading, espe-
cially about the innervation of the different
muscles, and though it cannot be said that
all the views expressed there rest on a firm
experimental basis, the reader interested in
this subject will peruse the book with great
benefit. Thirty-nine full page plates and
twelve other figures illustrate the views of
the author, and a good index of ten pages
makes reference to a special subject an easy
matter. The book can be had from this
office on receipt of publisher’s price, $2.50.

Regarding a Universal Agreement as
to the Determination of the
Visual Acuity

Lately, in the Zeztschrift f. Aughk., Dr.
E. Landolt, the celebrated ophthalmologist,
contributes a lengthy article regarding this
important subject. He defines the visual
acuity as the ability of the human eye to
recognize two points as separate under the
smallest visual angle. The smallest interval
which two points on the human retina may
have without being united into one single
sensation is called the mznzmum separadile,
and the angle which is formed by the two
lines connecting these two retinal points with
the nodal point of the eye is called the smallest
visual angle. If we want to judge the visual

Fig. 1

acuity by the smallest visuai angle, AK B in the
figure, we must not forget that in differently
constructed eyes the same angle covers a
greater retinal area in myopiaandasmaller one
in hypermetropia than is the case in emmetro-
pia. But if we remember that in axial ametro-
pia the correcting glass, if placed at the ante-
rior focal point of the eye, that is about
thirteen millimeters before the cornea, brings
the nodal point so much forward in hyper-
metropia, or so much backward in myopia,
that now in the corrected eye the distance
from retina to nodal point isthe same as in em-
metropia, it is evident that the same retinal
area corresponds to the same visual angle
and that therefore the latter can be taken as
the measure of the visual acuity of the eye.

di) San gs ed

This is well explained by Fig. 2, the upper
diagram for hypermetropia and the lower
for myopia.
The visual acuity is, of course, inversely
proportional to the visual angle, and the
question now is what angle must be taken
as the unit. Hitherto, according to the
recommendation of Snellen and Giraud-
Teulon a visual angle of one minute has
been taken as the unit, but in order to avoid

fractions Dr. Landolt recommends that we
take a unit ten times smaller than before, so

that what now is called a visual acuity of 75,

would then be called 1.

After discussing the different objects used

by different authorities to test the visual acuity,
. the doctor recommends
A his broken rings (Fig.3),
which have been de-
scribed in a former issue
of THE KEYSTONE, as
the best opto-types.
These rings he takes
with a diameter five times
larger than the breadth,
and the interrupted space
is as long as the ring is
wide, forming therefore
B almost a square. Landolt
has used them very suc-
cessfully in his own prac-

tice since several years.

Regarding the progression according to
which the different optotypes should be
arranged, whether this should be a geome-
trical or an arithmetical progression, the doc-
tor advises the indi-
vidual refractionist
to follow his own
judgment. There
should, however,
be more uniformity
regarding the illu-
mination of the test
types, and the doc-
tor thinks that in
the present condi-
tion of science it

Fig. 3

KEYS FON E&

1749

should not be difficult to soon propose an
artificial illumination which overcomes all the
difficulties hitherto encountered.

New Observations on the Process of
Accommodation

It cannot be said that the process of
accommodation has been explained satisfac-
torily in every detail.

A At present there is still

going on an_ ardent
fight between the fol-
lowers of Helmholtz
and those of Tscher-
ning with regard to
this matter. Not long
ago we reported in
THE KEYSTONE how
the objections of Hess
had been refuted by
Tscherning, but now
Dr. Hess again brings
A. forward observations
whichseem almost fatal
to the views of Tscher-
ning, unless the latter
can again adduce dif-
ferent testimony in his
behalf. The experi-
ments and observations
of Hess are as follows :

1. Tscherning found

that the radius of the an-

terior surface of the lens

in air did not correspond

to that of the accommo-

dating lens, so that the

form of the latter could not be accepted as repre-

senting equilibrium. Hess now shows that the

relative increase of weight of the lens after extrac-

tion (transition from water to air) produces a

change of form which cannot be made to apply to
the lens, surrounded as it is by water.

2. Tscherning produced an increased curvature
of the anterior pole of the lens by traction on the
zonule of the isolated lens of the ox and dog.
Hess proves by examination of the anterior lens
reflex that when the lens of man or apes remains
in connection with the ciliary body, traction on the
zonule decreases the curvature of the pole, while
relaxation of the zonule increases it.

3. Tscherning explains the sinking of the lens
in accommodation as a sinking not of the entire
lens, but of the free lens mass in the capsule, in
consequence of relaxation of the posterior capsule,
when the anterior capsule is stretched. Hess was
able to show in a patient with brown punctate opa-
cities on the anterior surface of the lens, that these
points participated in the sagging of the lens, so
that the anterior capsule must be concerned, as
well, in this movement.

Views of Well-known Ophthalmologists
Regarding the Use of Atropine for Determining
the full Correction of Myopia

At the last meeting of the Société Fran-
caise d’ Ophtalmologie, Dr. Bourgeois spoke
extensively about the full correction of myo-
pia. After giving an analysis of all the
former work regarding the full correction of
myopia, and after stating the views of many
members of the society whom he had ques-
tioned upon the subject, he gave his own
conclusions from his practice. As they do
not differ from those prevalent in this coun-
try, and frequently given here in these
columns, we shall not restate them here.
The doctor, however, in his paper also

(Continued on page 1753)

1750

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Clinics in Optometry

[Each of these clinics is complete in itself, and one of them
is published each month in this department. They cover all
manner of eye defects, from the simplest to the most compli-
cated, and give the most authoritative procedure in the diag-
nosis and correction of the various visual defects. In order to
make these clinics of maximum benefit, we invite our readers
to join in them by sending us any criticisms or suggestions
they may have to make in regard to the treatment here
given. ‘The first clinic of the series appeared in the May, 1904,
issue.—ED. ]

Hyperphoria

A. H. J., thirty-seven years of age, a
machinist by occupation, complains of head-
aches at times anda soreness and aching in
eyeballs. In reading he must make a con-
scious effort to adjust his eyes for the print.
Has felt for some time that his eyes needed
attention, but has simply neglected the mat-
ter. Has never had his eyes examined, and
has never worn glasses.

We find the acuteness of vision a little
better than normal, as he is able to name
about half the letters on the No. 15 line. In
ascertaining his range of accommodation, we
find that by an effort, he is able to read the
smallest print as close as 8 inches and as far
away as 28 inches.

These findings practically exclude myo-
pia and astigmatism, and narrow the refrac-
tion down toa choice between emmetropia
and hypermetropia. How are we going to
determine which’ of these two conditions is
present? The most practical and easily ap-
plied methods at our command are the trial
case and the retinoscope.

In using the test lenses the diagnosis of
hypermetropia depends, of course, upon the
acceptance of convex lenses for distant v ision,
while the rejection of the same would indi-
cate emmetropia.

We place a pair of + 1 D. lenses Poe
his eyes, knowing that if vision equals 4} or
better, with such lenses, eee is
present. In answer to our question as to
whether he can see the same line, patient
replies in the affirmative. Mark you, we do
not ask if the glasses make vision better;
this is not the proper form of question when
the vision is already normal. In myopia,
and even in astigmatism, where the vision is
greatly impaired, and w nae our effort 1s ex-
erted to raise it to normal, we very properly
ask patient 1f such and ae lens improves
and whether one is better than the

vision,
other. But in hypermetropia when the ac-

commodation is able to maintain the vision
at the normal standard, there is no question
of improving vision by convex lenses, but
rather the ability to see through convex
lenses as well as without them.

Patient tells us he is able to see through
these lenses very clearly, naming the same
letters as before; this proves hyper metropia,
and in order to determine its amount, we in-
crease the lenses .50 D. at a time until +
2.50 D. is reached, which produces a notable
blurring of the letters. We therefore esti-
mate the probable amount of hyermetropia
at. 2 1D;

Having thus determined the condition
of refraction with both eyes together, we
now proceed more carefully to measure the
amount of defect, by testing each eye
separately.

As is our usual custom in hypermetro-
pia, we use the fogging system. We place

THE

+5 D. lens in front of the right eye, with
which even the No. 200 letter is illegible.
We partially neutralize with concave spheres,
commencing with —.50 D. and increasing
.50 D. at a time, each change of lenses pro-
ducing a still further improvement of vision.
In this method of testing, where the vision
is so greatly fogged by the strong convex
lenses, it is perfectly proper to ask as we
place ‘the concave lenses. if they improve
vision, as our effort now is to raise the vision
to normal in spite of the convex lenses.

When we reach — 2 D. the vision has
become normal, some of the letters in the
No. 15 line being again legible. The result
of — 2 D. placed over + 5 D. is + 3 D.,
which represents the amount of hypermetro-
pia we have uncovered. We repeat the
same test with the left eye, where we find

2.50 D. of hypermetropia.

We will now turn to our test by the
retinoscope. The direction of movement of
the shadow in both eyes is unquestionably
‘with.’ This may mean either emmetropia
or hypermetropia. In order to determine
between these, we place + 1 D. lenses be-
fore the eyes; if these neutralize the move-
ments, emmetropia is present. But if the
movement is still ‘‘ with,’’ the refraction 1s
hypermetropic.

In this case we find the movement is
still in the same direction, thus classing the
refraction as hypermetropic. We now
measure each eye separately, increasing the
strength of the convex lens as long as the
movement continues ‘‘ with,’’ and we find
that a -+ 4 D. neutralizes the movement in
the right eye, and a + 3.50 D. in the left
eve: ‘We subtract 1 D. to allow for the dis-
tance at which the test is made, the result
being exactly the same as that found by the
trial case.

This is quite a marked amount of defect,
and it imposes a tremendous tax upon the
accommodation, which at this age is scarcely
able to bear it. A hypermetropia of this
amount at this age would be sufficient to
account for the headaches, the aching in eye-
balls and the effort required to adjust the
eyes for reading.

But we must not be content to stop
here, we have finished only half our exami-
nation, and as conscientious optometrists we
are bound to make the examination of each
case thorough and complete.

We therefore pass on to an investigation
of the muscular equilibrium, for which we
depend on the use of the Maddox rod. This
is placed before the left eye ina horizontal
position, causing this eye to see a_ vertical
streak of light. In answer to our questions
as to which side of the light the streak ap-
pears and how far from the light, the patient
tells us about a foot or more to the left. This
being on the same side as the eye over which
the rod is placed, indicates esophoria, and is
correctible by prisms, bases out, the amount of
prism required being the measure of the eso-
phoria, which in this case we find to be 8°; in
other words, a prism of this strength is required
to bring the streak up to the light. While
we would expect to find some esophoria in a
case of hypermetropia like this, we are
scarcely prepared to find so much.

We now turn the Maddox rod around
to the vertical position, when the image
formed in this left eye will be a horizontal

KEYS TON E&

I751

streak of light. We ask the patient if this
streak is above, below or through the light.
He answers that it is away below, at least
six inches. This indicates a hyperphoria of
this eye and is corrected by a prism, base
down. The degree of prism required to
bring the streak up to the flame will be the
measure of the hyperphoria. We commence
with a 2° prism, which brings the streak
somewhat closer, but still considerably below.
We increase to 3°, then to 4°, and then to
5°, when patient tells us the streak is now
through the light. We make the entry in
our record book L. H. (the abbreviation for
left hyperphoria), 5

This throws a new light upon the case,
and instead of being one of hypermetropia
with its accompanying esophoria, we are in-
clined to regard the hyperphoria as the
essential feature of the case.

I have seen the statement made by an
optical writer that in high convergent stra-
bismus there is almost always in addition an
upward deviation of the squinting eye. I
have not been able to verify this statement
in my own experience, but it is well for
you to bear in mind the possibility of such
connection. This may serve to explain the
hyperphoria in this case occurring In connec-
tion with a marked degree of esophoria.

A hyperphoria of 1° is capable of giv-
ing rise to asthenopic symptoms; much
more so than an equal amount of esophoria
or exophoria, and therefore this form of devia-
tion calls for our careful consideration.

The average strength of the vertical
muscles is scarcely more than 2°; a hyper-
phoria of 1° is one-half the total strength of
these muscles, and hence it can be easily
understood why a hyperphoria of this com-
paratively small amount is such a disturbing
factor.

The external and internal recti, on the
other hand, are much stronger, and besides
the action of these muscles is influenced by
the effort of accommodation. This explains
why a higher degree of exophoria or esopho-
ria produces much less marked symptoms of
asthenopia. And then again, we can at least
partially correct the former with concave
lenses and the latter with convex lenses,
through their action on the accommodation,
but we have no such means of influencing
the hypherphoria.

When we come to inquire into the
etiology of hyperphoria, the only explanation
that can be given for its occurrence is that
the balance of power between the superior
and inferior recti muscles of one eye differs
shghtly from that of the other.

Hyperphoria may be latent just as hyper-
metropia is latent. It is that portion of.the
anomaly which the observer fails to find.
What is latent at one time to one man, Is
manifest to another under other conditions.
A relatively greater amount of defect may be
latent in the superior and inferior recti than
in the external and internal recti, for the
reason that the latter in the performance of
their functions are alternately converging and
diverging the optic axes, while the superior
and inferior recti are never called upon to
produce any change in the relative position
of the two optic axes. Whatever position
they assume, they must not deviate from the
same horizontal plane; consequently, the
impulses to the vertical muscles become more

(Continued on page 1753)

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Clinics in Optometry

(Continued from page 1751)

fixed. and for this reason defects in these
muscles are less likely to manifest themselves.

The treatment of hyperphoria may be
optical or surgical. In the higher degrees of
hyperphoria, an operation may be advisable,
if the symptoms are of sufficient gravity to
justify operative interference, either tenotomy
of the superior rectus of the hyperphoric eye
or advancement of the inferior rectus. But
even in these cases we would advise a trial
of prisms first, in order to note their effect.
If prisms do not afford a fair measure of re-
lief, there is always room for doubt whether
an operation will be any more successful.
For it must be remembered, that the exist-
ence of a hyperphoria cannot by any means
be accepted as positive proof, that this is the
cause of the headache, or asthenopia or
other reflex nervous disturbances of which
the patient may complain.

In the optical treatment of hyperphoria,
some interesting questions arise in the pre-
scription of the correcting prisms. In cases
of 1° of hyperphoria a single prism suffices,
and the question occurs over which eye it
shall be placed. If the vision of one eye is
decidedly poorer than the other, we prefer-
ably place the prism over the more defec-
tive eye. In cases where the vision of the
two eyes is about equal, it has been customary
to piace the prism over the left eye.

Now, my experience has been that a
prism, base down, is not so comfortable as
one base up. In other words, the raising of
objects by the base-down prism is apt to
cause more disturbance of vision than the
lowering effect of the base-up prism, proba-
bly because the lines of vision are more
often and more naturally below the level
of the eyes than above.

For this reason, unless there are indica-
tions to the contrary, I think it is better to
place the prism base up over the cataphoric
eye rather than base down over the hyper-
phoric eye. For instance, in a case of right
hyperphoria of 1°, instead of ordering prism
base down over right eye and raising the
vision of this eye to the level of the other,
I would order prism base up over left eye
and thus lower the vision of this eye to the
level of the right.

There are other indications for varying
the position of the prisms, as, for instance,
the following: A case of leit hyperphoria, of
which 1° is shown, when the Maddox rod 1s
over the right eye, and 1%° when over the
left eye. In this case the right eye is proba-
bly the fixing eye, and a prism of 1°, base
up, over this eye would be likely to cause
more disturbancee of vision (at least, when
first worn) than one of base down over left
eye, for obvious reasons.

The necesssity of prisms for the correc-
tion of hyperphoria is often easy of demon-
stration. While the patient looks at the test
card through his refractive correcticn, a ver-
tical prism in its proper position is placed
over one eye and then in a moment reversed,
when the patient can quickly decide which
position is comfortable and which disturbing
to vision. In the absence of such indica-
tions, that is, if patient is unable to decide

EEE

which position is comfortable, a prism would
be of doubtful value.

When the hyperphoria is 2° or more, it
is customary to divide the prism between the
two eyes, base down before one eye and base
up before the other. This applies to the
case under consideration, and we will order
2° base up right eye and 2° base down left
eye, thus depressing the image of one eyé
and elevating that of the other, in this way
restoring the visual lines of the two eyes to
the same level.

We are now ready to order the glasses
for our patient. We must, of course, pre-
scribe for the hypermetropia, but as he has
never worn glasses we cannot make them too
strong. Nor do | think it well to order a full
correction for the hyperphoria. The esopho-
ria for the present can be safely ignored.
With these considerations our prescription
will read:

O. D., + 2 D., sph. SS prism 2°, base up,
O. S.; + 1.75 D., sph. S prism 2°, base down,

which we will direct to be set in spectacle
frames and worn constantly.

Reviews of Current Ophthalmo-
logical Literature of the World

(Continued from page 1749)

referred to the use of atropine and reviews the
French status as follows: The majority of
ophthalmologists is opposed to the use of
atropine or any other cycloplegic for the
determination of myopia. The speaker him-
self has never employed it, and expressed
his opinion that the so-called spasm of ac-
commodation, which is adduced as the reason
for atropine by its users, was very rare and
only found in nervous and hysteric persons.
He further states that Dianoux, in his
writings, also rejects the use of atropine and
mentions Tscherning who also denies the
existence of a spasm of accommodation, and
who has explained the decrease of the myo-
pic refraction after the use of atropine by
the weaker refraction of the more peripheral
parts of the optic system of the eye. Sulzer
likewise objects to the systematic use of
atropine, and Koubli is of the same opinion.
Dr. Bourgeois finally observed that for
purposes of refraction, atropine should only
be used in such cases where there was a
creat difference between the objective and
subjective tests, and that for the treatment of
myopia it should be employed only in cases
with grave complications like detachment of
the retina.

Have Certain Congenital Affections
of the Eye their Cause in Strong Impressions
Made upon the Mother before Birth
of the Child ?

Dr. H. Derby, of Boston, in his paper
before the last meeting of the American
Ophthalmological Society, cited a number of
coincidences of this kind, which embraced
various forms of congenital disease.

In the discussion Dr. Herman Knapp,
New York, said that in 100,000 private
patients he had never seen a case that would
remotely strengthen such a hypothesis.

KX B&B Y- Ss TO N EB

1753

Dr. E. E. Holt, Portland, Me., reported
a case of a boy, twelve years old, brought
to him with no eyes. The mother informed
him that the child had been born without
any eyeballs. Inquiry elicited the informa-
tion that, when about three months pregnant,
men were digging a cellar at the house and
a little child came out on a pile of sand, and
the workmen, not seeing it, threw a shovel-
ful of earth in its face. The sight of this
accident, the mother believed, was the cause
of her child having been born without eyes.

Dr. Walter Pyle, Philadelphia, had ex-
amined nearly all the records of maternal
impressions from the time of Hippocrates
down and failed to find any scientific evidence
at all.

Dr. Lucien Howe, Buffalo, thought the
negative evidence which could be obtained
by examining the pupils of blind asylums of
importance. A repetition of changes would
often be found in two or more of the same
family. If due to maternal impressions, the
mother would have to have had the same
impression before the birth of each child.

Packing Exposed Photographic Plates

At a meeting of one of the London
societies. a member said that recently he
packed a number of exposed plates in tin-
foil, and at the same time another set in
simple paper. On proceeding to develop
those in the tinfoil, nothing but the ghost of
an image could be obtained ; while those in
the paper, treated in every way the same,
and exposed under the same conditions, were
quite satisfactory. The statement was fol-
lowed by considerable discussion, without
any satisfactory suggestion as to the cause of
the fading of the image. Tinfoil, as is well
known, is not always or often all pure tin,
and as Russell has shown that quite a num-
ber of metals give off a vapor that acts in-
juriously on the latent image or on the sensi-
tive film, it may be that to some of those
mixed with the tin, is to be attributed the evil.

Photography in the Russo-Japanese
War

A Tokio correspondent of our contemporary,
Photographie Frangatsé, sends to that journal
some interesting notes on the use of photography
by the Japanese. Forsome years the headquarters
staff of the Japanese army have been studying the
subject, and have founded an army photographic
service corps. Folding film cameras are used, and
the films are developed at the rear of the advance
line, and positive films quickly sent to the front.
Light bamboo stands are used, and most of the
cameras are fitted with telephoto lens, which, how-
ever, only gives a magnification of eight diameters.
Cameras are attached to captive and free balloons,
and special orders have been to the zronauts to
destroy the films and cameras in case of capture.
Photography is also used to duplicate the orders
of the day, and the microphotographs of these
are Carried, it is stated, by the Chunchuses and
Chinese under their nails, between their toes, up
their nostrils, and even in their stomachs. In the
latter ease, it is stated that the document is hidden
in a small ivory tube, which the porter swallows if
he thinks there is a chance of his being captured,
the ivory resisting the gastric juices, and thus pre-
serving the document. When the microscopic
document arrives at its destination, it is enlarged
by projection and copied, as was done in the
Franco-German war of 1870,

DID YOU EVER THINK

how much time is wasted in finding the axis of the cylinder in fitting the eyes
by the old method of asking patients questions and how many mistakes are
made by depending upon their answers.

The
Ophthalmometer

does away with the necessity of all this and
makes fitting much easier, quicker and
more accurate, because 72 shows absolutely
the meridians of greatest and least curva-
ture of the cornea, besides giving approxt-
mately the amount of cylindrical error.

No refracting room is complete with-
out one and this, the busiest season of the
year for the refractionist, is the best time
to give this instrument a trial.

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Wholesale and Manufacturing Opticians
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BRANCHES J Atlanta, Ga. BRANCHES | London, England
| Denver, Colo. | Paris, France

October, 1905

Optical Questions and Answers

Subseribers wishing inquiries answered in this depart-
ment must send name and address—not for publication, but
as an evidence of good faith. Questions will be answered in
the order in which they are received. No attention will be
paid to anonymous communications.

To enable us to answer questions satisfactorily and give
proper advice in the management of cases submitted to us, it
is essential that we be furnished with a complete history of
each case and accurate information on the following points:

1. Age. (If not possible to give exact age, always approxi-
mate).

2. Have glasses been previously worn? How long and what
number?

3. Visual acuteness of each eye, and what improvement
glasses afford,
~ 4. Range of accommodation (without glasses and with
them).

5. Evidence of astigmatism (as shown by radiating lines).

6. Test for muscular insufficiency.

“LT, L. B.’—(r) What would be the focal power of
a lens that would focus rays of light coming
from 20 inches to a point at 13 inches ?

(2) In all cases of retinoscopy, where the
operator ts seated one meter from the patient
and a plus 1 1). lens stops the shadow, the
patient 1s considered an emmetrope, and would
it not be the samme tn myopia ?

(5a):

(2) In myopia of 1 D. the far point is at 4o
inches and the emergent rays would exactly focus
on the retina of the observer seated at this distance.
Therefore, there would be no movement of the
shadow, or, in other words, it is neutralized by the
myopia. From an emmetropic eye the rays
emerge parallel, and in such a case it requires a
+1 D. to focus them on the observer’s retina and
to stop the movement. This demonstrates the
difference between the movement in emmetropia
and low myopia. In the latter case the + 1 D.
lens would cause the shadow to go against, which
would indicate the opposite condition of refraction.
It is not often we meet with myopia of exactly
1 D., and therefore we usually find some move-
ment of the shadow: if with, it is either emme-
tropia, hypermetropia or myopia of less than 1 D.;
if against, myopia over I D.

“® P. S’—Lady came to me a few days ago who
had her eves dilated with atropine and fitted
with glasses fifteen years ago. They worked
fine until abeut stx months ago. Since that
time a traveling oculist changed the lenses
but failed to benefit her in the least. TI tried
testing her eyes. A + .25 D. and + 5 VD.
look almost the same to her. TI think I will
have to have a physician dilate her eves again.
Please advise me in this matter, also how to
proceed after they are dilated.

Our correspondent’s description of this case is
so indefinite that we find ourselves unable to offer
any intelligent advice. In fact, he has failed to
give us information on any of the six points asked
for at the head of this page. In order to form a
proper conception of this case, we must have
definite information on the following : Age; if pos-
sible, the number of the lenses which she wore for
sO many years with comfort; the visual acuity of
each eye and the strongest convex lenses accepted
by distant test; near point without glasses, or if
unable to read with unaided eye, then the near
point with that convex lens with which she can
read comfortably; evidence of astigmatism as
shown by any of the customary tests.

Reference is made to the fact that this lady
previously had her eyes dilated; now, it should
be borne in mind that atropine is used not for the
purpose of dilating the pupil, but the main object
in view is to place the accommodation at rest. The
dilation of the pupil is an incidental effect, or a
side issue it may be called, which is of no value in
determining the condition of the refraction by the
trial case.

The statement that ‘Ca +.25 D. and a+ 5 D.
look almost the same to her,’’ indicates a lack of
understanding of the principles involved. If the
visual acuity is impaired, we find the strongest
convex lens that raises it to normal. If the vision
is not impaired, then we seek the strongest convex
lens with which the No. 20 line can still be plainly
seen. If a + .25 and a + 5 are the same, then
we keep on increasing the strength of the lenses
until we reach one which begins to* blur the vision.
After atropine is used, the test is made in the same

E IK

way. If hypermetropia is present, the use of the
drug reduces visual acuity and the strongest con-
vex lens that restores it to normal will be the total

. Error.

“O. F S'’—Will you please give me a few words
of explanation as to how to measure the
pupillary distance of eveglasses ? Is the frame
laid on the measuring card with the spring in
a state of rest, or 1s it spread apart as it would
be while being worn? If not asking too much,
could yon give an illustration how the frame
should be laid on card for that and also for
measuring ‘‘top and bottom of guards apart’’?
In measuring spectacles, what 1s meant by
“bridge in’’ and “ bridge out’ ?

In order to measure the pupillary distance of
eyeglasses, or rather the distance between the
optical centers of the lenses, they must necessarily
be laid on the measuring card in the same position
as when on the nose of the wearer. It is obvious
that such distance could not be correct if taken
with spring at rest. It can be easily seen about
how much the nose spreads the guards, and then
they can be laid on the card in a like position. At
the same time and in the same way the frames can
be laid to measure the distance between the top
and bottom of the guards.

But, after all, there is no exact and practical
way of measuring the face and nose for the eye-
glasses. The only way it can be done satisfactorily
is by trying them on the face, and for this purpose
it is necessary to have a set of samples, comprising
different sized lenses, different lengths of studs,
different styles of springs and different kinds of
guards. These can be tried on in turn until the
one is found that suits the patient best, as to
holding the lenses in proper position and with
guards that are comfortable and that will not easily
shake off.

No matter how careful the measurements for
eyeglasses, they cannot be strictly accurate, and
hence when the finished product is ready to be
handed to the purchaser the guards must be
adjusted so that the pressure on the sides of the
nose will be uniform along their whole length, or
perhaps a shade closer at the tops of the guards.
At the same time it must be seen that the lenses
are not allowed to droop.

By ‘‘ bridge in’’ and ‘‘bridge out’’ is meant
the inclination of the bridge. This is a most im-
portant part of the measurement, so that the lenses
may be held at the proper distance from the eyes.
The desideratum is to get the lenses as close as
possible, just so they escape the lashes. Some-
times the nose is flat or the lashes long, which
calls for inclination of bridge back. Sometimes
the nose is prominent and lashes short, when the
inclination of bridge is front. This also can best
be determined by a set of sample frames.

“4. G. P’—Man, age thirty-seven, musician, was
jilted fifteen years ago wih: Rk. fh. — 75S
—= 25 000° Le, Le — OS —— FS OVA 100"
He wore this combination for about five years
and then discarded the glasses except for very
fine print, or where the light was bad. He
came to me complaining that his sight was get-
ling poorer and that his eyes became inflamed
and painful whenever he caught cold or used
them to excess. [have no dark room and have
to depend entirely upon my trial case. Limade
the following examinations: Muscle test at

20 feet. He could overcome 15° base in, 16°
base out. With Snellen’s chart: R. E. 2%. with
— 1.50 5 — .77 ax. 125938: L. E23 with
— 20 — .50 ax. 30° 3%. Vision, both eyes

without glasses and using accommodation 2%.

and part of 2%. Without accommodation (1. é.,
with ro° prism base in), 2° dim. What [want
to know 1s how to account for the axes of the
cylinders changing 25° in fifteen years. Does
astigmatism in myopes change with the progres-
sion of themyopia? Owtng to the change in the
position of the cylinders, I was particularly
careful on this point but found that with the
axes, as in his original prescription, vision
both eyes was only 2° dim.

Cases of astigmatism are frequently met with in
which the location of the axis of the correcting
cylinder varies from time to time. It is not impos-
sible for the curvatures of the cornea to change,

EY S&S Fo N E&

L759

and it has been found that this occurs most often
in uric acid patients. We have to take things as
we find them even though we cannot always offer
a plausible reason for certain changes.

We feel that we must question the result of the
muscle test in regard to the overcoming a 15° prism
base in. This is almost an impossibility unless
there is an evident strabismus, of which we have
no account. The power of abduction is normally
from 6° to 8°; it would be unusual at 10°, excep-
tional at 12°, and almost impossible at 15°. Why
was not the Maddox rod used in addition to the
duction tests?

The formula mentioned may represent the
error of refraction and afford good distant vision,
but such glasses will scarcely answer for reading.
If this man has been reading without glasses, his
accommodation has been but little used and is,
therefore, weak. Under these conditions, at this
age, he could not be expected to read through full
correction concave lenses.

“CJ. W.’—Lady, about thirty-three, has worn
glasses for several years, ts troubled with bad
headache and neuralgia. IJiston, R. E. 2°,
L. Fi. f,. dtas been wearing, BF. a 7S
+ 7,ax. 75°, same in left. With these vision
in R. f. 1s 2°; in left no better than without
any. I gave her a thorough test and found
wisiowas follows It. Ee 1 SPS Ff Cyl. Gx.
Geo 28at 20 feel. We, fe 2Cyl, Gi O54
3 cyl. ax. 15° brought vision down to 3° at 20
feet. I had these glasses ground and she
could see perfectly in them, but wouldwt wear
them, said they made her dizzy; so I put a
plano in left eye and she got along better, but
Still had attacks of headache. Has been wear-
ing agrab front over distance glasses, +- 2.50
for reading ; she accepts this all right. About
ten days ago I gave her another pair of
glasses, the same for R. F. and reducing L.E.,
had ut ground +- 1 sph. CS — 4 cyl. ax. 15°.
This she is wearing, sees well, but still has
headache. Icouldwt find any muscular trouble.
What do you think ts the matter ?

This is a most interesting case and one that
will tax the skill of an expert optometrist. A large
part of the trouble is doubtless due to the aniso-
metropia. Now, each case of anisometropia must
be studied by itself; there is no rule that can be
laid down for the management of these cases.

Inasmuch as there is a considerable myopic
element in the left eye, the question occurs as to
whether this eye may be used preferably for close
vision, and the right eye, which is entirely hyper-
metropic, be used for distant vision. This is a
point that must be definitely determined in order
to arrive at a proper understanding of the case.
Not only must each eye be examined separately
to measure the error of refraction, but the accom-
modation must be measured in the same way.

The fact that a + 2.50 sphere must be added
for reading in a patient aged thirty-three, indicates
an error somewhere. At this age the glasses that
correct distant vision should suffice for reading,
otherwise we are led to suspect that the distant
correction is at fault or that there is probably con-
siderable more hypermetropia present than is
indicated by the distance correction.

The effort should be made to give the left eye
as near a full correction as can be borne ; just what
lens should be prescribed is a matter that can be
determined only by actual trial. But whatever
lenses are given, it would be well for her to have
a pair with the full correction, which she should
wear for a short period each day, gradually
increasing the length of this period until the time
will finally come when the full correction lenses
can be worn constantly. The writer has often
been surprised that glasses of widely different
focus, which at first could scarcely be tolerated for
a moment, were finally after patient perseverance
worn with entire comfort and relief.

It is possible that stronger glasses may be re-
quired for reading, and if so the added lenses will
probably be different for each eye. But it is more
than probable that the distance glasses fail to
represent the hypermetropic defect, which may be
one reason for a continuance of the headaches.

Our correspondent says he couldn’t find any
muscular trouble ; did he use the standard tests,
and with care? Inacase like this, where one eye
is so different from the other, there is usually some
latent deviation.

“

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Made in Solid Gold, 10 K.

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Julius King Optical Co.

al New York, 2 & 4 Maiden
| Cleveland, Erie and Euclid

October, 1905

A Method of Measuring Latent
Hypermetropia

By A. E. BLACKMAN, Castle Forbes Bay, Huron, Tasmania

HIS method is by fogging, in which the
lessening of the lens power is not made
by sudden steps, but continuously, as if
we had an elastic
could be flattened slowly and without gradations.

Let & be the eye under examination, A P the
usual position of the refracting plane of a spectacle
glass before the eye. A Z a large achromatic
aplanatic lens (the more nearly it is so, the better
the result) of one meter focal length. Let ® be
the focus for parallel incident rays of this lens.
The achromatic aplanatic lens is supported by a
stand, which slides along a graduated bar to or
from the patient’s eye, so that its axis corresponds
with the line between the eye and the center of the
card of test letters at twenty feet distance as usual.
The lens itself is fitted
into a metal ring,
which has two pivots
diametrically opposite
each other; these
pivots take bearing in
holes ina second ring,
which can be turned
round in its own
plane, like a wheel—
it sliding in the ring
of the support. This
allows us to tilt the
iens about its dia-
meter which has the
pivots, and by turning
around the lens, its
ring and pivots and
the ring into which
they take bearing,
we can bring the tilt-
ing axis of the lens to
any position in the
common plane of the
supporting rings; by means of springs the lens is
held to this same plane and a projecting lever is
the means by which a tilt of the lens can be made
in any axial position.

By looking at the diagram it can be seen that
the virtual focal length of the lens is the distance
of the focus ® from the virtual refracting plane
R P—the focus ® moves with the lens and is
always one meter distant from it.

The lines running parallel to one another and
towards the lens, as indicated, are representative
of the parallel rays from a point upon the distant
test card. Those that pass through as continuous
lines represent the rays as they are converged after
refraction by the lens; the dotted lines represent
the course the rays would have taken had the lens
not been there. Now suppose that the rays had
reached the virtual refracting plane AR / in the
parallel condition shown in dotted lines, and had
there met a lens which refracted them to ®, that is
to say, had met a lens whose focal length were
equal to the distance of ® from the plane R P,; the
result is the same as far as the eye is concerned as
if they had passed through the lens 4 Z only—it
being in its present position. As we move the
large lens A Z from .the eye, we lessen the virtual
focal length, which is the distance between ® and
the plane R /P—this being always equal to one
meter, less the distance between the plane R P
and the lens 4 Z.

lens, whose surface

Ins

—s— = « ~

THIS DISTANCE

LENGTH AND: 15
VARIABLE.

bs |

1S
THE VIRTUAL FOCAL

YT fhe

~,— =

'
&
!
i
}
1
?
f
{
)
?
¢
’
!
)
’
’
’
’
’
:
)
'

THIS DISTANCE

If we allow one-third of an inch for the usual
distance of the refracting plane of a spectacle glass
from the cornea, we can easily graduate the slide,
which carries the large, movable lens, so as to
indicate all virtual dioptric powers of the lens from
t to 20 D., without running any risk of being any-
thine appreciably out. We can provide a chin-
rest and lens-holder to keep the correct position of
a trial lens before the eye, if wanted, in the course
of the test. This also guarantees the correct posi-
tion of the patient’s eye, the chin-rest, etc., being
supported by the same bar that carries the sliding
support of the lens.

Having a person seated, and one eye covered
as usual by an opaque disk, we place the lens at a
distance from the patient, which fogs the eye.
Suppose the scale indicates 6 D. Without disturbing
him we slowly move the lens towards his eye; he
begins, he says, to see the test letters at twenty
feet more distinctly ; we ask him to be as restful
as he can. This we do to encourage the relaxation
of the ciliary muscle as much as possible; we can

METER DIVIDED BY THE VIRTUAL FOCAL
LENGTH, IN THIS {LLUSTRATION A LITTLE

MORE THAN S DIOPTRIES.

lessen the illumination perhaps a little (should his
pupil appear at all contracted) in order to take
away any need of nervous supply by the third
nerve, which acts upon the circular contracting
fibres of the iris and upon the ciliary muscle as
well. This gives him the very best conditions for
relaxation of the muscle of accommodation, and
consequently enables the optician to get as great a
measure of the latent hypermetropia as is possible
by fogging.

Suppose we stop finally at 3.50 D. on the scale
as being the first place where the patient can
distinctly read the same line of test letters that he
could read without the lens A Z, supposing, with-
out this lens, he has had his manifest hyperme-
tropia corrected by a lens placed in the holder, if
necessary ; which lens should be removed during
the fogging. Then 3.50 D. is the measure of his
total amount of hypermetropia. If 1 D., say, was
the measure of his manifest defect, then 2.50 D.,
or the difference, is the measure of the latent
error.*

We can also make use of the tilting of the lens
to detect any astigmatism; should we find his
vision improved by a tilt about any particular axial

* The writer here forgets that the + 1 D. lens enlarges
more or less, according to its distance from the eye, and that the
image will appear larger with the correcting lens A Z than with
the usual lens at R P. Allowance should be made for this fact,
which will make the latent hypermetropia appear higher than
it really is.—EpD.

KEY Ss TON EB

ETO

direction, then a line at right angles to this direc-
tion represents the position of his eye’s meridian
of deficient refraction, because the lens augments
the meridian at right angles to its axis of tilt. We
can now place a plus cylinder in the lens-holder in
front of his eye, with its axis parallel to the tilting
axis of the lens 4 Z, and we can change this for
another stronger or weaker as indicated by further
rotation of the lens about the axis of its pivots,
until we get a cylinder in the holder which makes
it impossible to make any improvement by tlting.
Maybe alter the position of the large lens a little.
Thus we are enabled to measure his astigmatism
as well as his hypermetropia; the lens in the
holder will be the measure of the former, and the
large lens’ position upon the graduated bar that of
the latter.

The advantages of this method over the usual
fogging system are that, the patient being undis-
turbed during the changes of dioptric power aiding
that of his eye, and the eye not receiving rays of
suddenly changing degrees of convergence, there

is a far greater chance
of completely relax-
ing the ciliary muscle:

A
a ee we simulate the
Z
y changes of converg-
ee ee j —Z ence of rays upon the
eT a ee ~-----} retina which are
meena t- +--+ --------- no ee ee ¢ brought about by the
: g crystalline lens itself,
Z and must leave the
eye doubtful whether
L
the changes are due
RP is tHe usuat position Loi OE Ouse ulay
OF ee Ae re PLANE , alterations or to out-
2 ae ahi See cles. Re ek ae side changes, and in
1S TWE REAL FOCAL LENGTH oF that way the eye is
LENS’ WHICH 88 CONSTANT, BEINGS | METER. led to co-operate in
THE VIRTUAL POWERIN DIOPTRIES 1S ONE a get Se

—especiaily must this
be the case, when
making the small
finishing changes.

I do not know
whether this method
may or may not be already known to the readers
of THE KryYSTONE, but I think it a duty which
every optician owes to his profession to exploit for
the benefit of all such discoveries or new methods
as he may unearth in his researches.

Plant Photography

If photographs of a germinating seed were
taken by the cinematograph at regular intervals
during many days until the seed had germinated
and sent up its seed leaves, the photographs could
be thrown on the screen and spectators could see
the earth raised up by the swelling seed, the seed-
coat thrown off, the seed leaves emerge, and the
first leaves burst forth. A recent lecturer explained
some first experiments made with a film cinemato-
graph in which there were defects, as the film would
not stand the damp of the greenhouse. More suc-
cessful were experiments made with the kammato-
graph, in which the photographs are taken on a glass
disk. The disk, 12 inches in diameter, was sus-
pended in a metal ring and coated with a sensitive
emulsion. It was put into the machine, which was
light-proof, and by means of a handle rotated, so
so that every part of the plate was exposed before
the small oblong opening in front of the lens and
the photographs appeared in a spiral on the disk. In
many stages of the process a photograph taken once
every quarter of an hour was found sufficient.

The Lasso Guard, by means of a large opening at the end and a series of
grooves on the inside, holds the center of the glasses steadily before the pupils, without

pinching or squeezing the nose. Jhey are entirely comfortable and make perfect vision
possible.

The Tubular Spring, hollowed on the inside, has increased resiliency, allow-
ing the spring to be bent freely without breaking. Jhe hollowing makes the spring
stronger and neater-looking.

Screw=Lock End. Both Lasso Guard and Tubular Spring are provided with
screw-lock ends, which press outward against the screw-head, making a positive lock that
keeps the screws from working loose in the studs.

The Strap and Studs are strongly constructed — thicker
around the Screws, where ee , strength is most needed, and
thinner at edges to make a | te better appearance.

Mr. Ivan Fox has spent most of his life studying the needs of eye-glass wearers,
andasaresult has produced ox Lasso E:ye-glass Mountings, which insure bet-
ter vision and more comfort from eye-glasses than has ever been possible before.

A man who has been in one business for 25 years and made it a constant study ought
to know what people need and should command their confidence in his ability to produce it.
Mr. Fox does know, and

over a million pairs of Lasso Guards already sold
show that people believe he is right.

Our instructive little Book ** O,”’ written by Mr. Fox, “Eyes Worth Having,” will interest you.
Write for it to-day and ask for samples.

OF SPRING

Fox Optical Manufacturing Co. GE Vee

Philadelphia

"PAT MAP..22,04,
PAT. APR.30, 04

PAT. JAN. 7,02

T FE

October, 1905

Tests and Studies of the Ocular Muscles

The famous work of ErNEesT E. Mappox, M. D., F. R. C. 8. Ed., specially revised and
greatly extended by the author. The added matter covers the latest researches on muscular
anomalies—theories, tests and methods of treatment—aud includes an entire new chapter on

(Continued. Part X)

It is this angle, indeed, by which we define the axis of rotation, for
there are an infinite number of diameters in Listing’s plane about which the
eyeball might rotate, but only one for each specified angle from the vertical,
though we need to take account of whether the inclination is positive (to
the patient’s right) or negative (to the patient’s left).

From V,, drop the perpendicular V m upon O x.

Then m Cx gives us the angle of false torsion required ; for z C is the
position of the generating line at the close of the rotation, and shows the
new position of the vertical diameter of Listing’s plane, while the plane
m C V is the vertical plane passing through the center of motion and the
point of fixation, the angle between these two being the angle of torsion.

It is evident that the plane # C V is a vertical plane, since it passes
through the vertical line VC.

It is equally easy to prove that the plane # C V, if prolonged, would
pass through the fixation point, for it is perpendicular to the plane 2 O C, to
which the line of fixation is also of necessity perpendicular, and they both
pass through C; therefore, the line of fixation must lie in the plane, and
conduct it, so to speak, to the fixation point.

Taking V C as unity—

Since QO: Sin» il
Om .
and oe a Cos. R
sigh Om = Sin: Gos. R.
Moreover, O C = Cos. |
Om Sin. £.Gos. (R
OQ. co 1 “Goes I = — Tan. [ Gos: R.
Om ae
But, ie ca Tan. (I — x)
soa Dans i( t — x) = Tan. Cos: KR.
Or, eT —= Tam, (lam Gos, IR):

Putting this into language :—The false torsion is equal to the angle from
the vertical, or from the horizontal, of the axis about which the eye rotates,
less the angle whose tangent is the multiple of the tangent of the inclination
of the axis of motion with the cosine of the angle traversed by the line of
fixation.

The following short table will give an idea of the amount of false torsion
which takes place on looking in any diagonal direction midway between any
two of the cardinal directions.

Since the greatest false torsion of which the eye is capable occurs at the
extremities of these diagonals, we may see at once that it does not ever
much exceed 10°.

ROTATION ABOUT AN AXIS 45° FROM THE HORIZONTAL.

1O7 5?
= |. eae

6%! | 26, | 19 oe ae 4°6’ SAS SS) OrAde

| Degrees 5

‘Torsion

Azimuth and Altitude.—The ocular motions can, for exact work, be
analyzed with reference to three principal axes, a vertical axis, a horizontal
axis and an antero-posterior axis.

When the eye Jooks directly upwards or downwards it rotates round a
horizontal (or transverse) axis.

When it looks directly to the right or left, it rotates round a vertical axis.

These will be recognized as the cavdina/ movements of the eye.

In astronomical language, we might call the upward and the downward
motion, ‘‘ motion in altitude,’’ and the motion to right or left, ‘‘ motion in
azimuth,’ these being the terms that would be used were the eyes two
telescopes.

Motion in azimuth may be illustrated by that of a weather-cock : it is
motion about a vertical axts.

Motion in altitude may be illustrated by a piece of cannon, or by a
toilet looking glass: it is motion about a horizontal axis.

It will be seen that the cardinal motions of the eyes are those of either
pure azimuth or pure altitude.

When the visual axis, however, is directed obliquely to an object, alti-
tude and azimuth are combined. What is so
wonderful is that they are combined in the same
proportion at every instant during the motion, so
that the visual axis instead of first moving side-
ways, and then up and down, moves at once by the
shortest route into its new position.

An astronomer would direct his telescope by
first moving it in azimuth and then in altitude, but
this is far too clumsy a plan for the eye, since it
means two motions instead of one, and a longer
route instead of the shortest.

The visual axis, therefore, sweeps along what-
ever incline plane is common to its initial position
and its new position, and loses no time (Fig. 16).
It is evident that in motion of this kind the globe

Fig. 16
To show how the eye reaches
any new position by the
shortest possible route.

K EY S T ON EB 1759

must rotate about an axis perpendicular to this inclined plane, an axis,
therefore, which is neither horizontal or vertical, but somewhere inter-
mediate. All the same, it can be described in terms of its component
azimuth and altitude as zf it had reached its new position like a telescope.
The horizontal component of the motion is the azimuth, and its vertical
component the altitude,

When motion is to the right from the initial position, the azimuth is by
astronomers called positive—when to the left negative.

Similarly, motion upwards gives positive altitude, and motion down-
wards negative.

In analyzing any motion, it is a good plan to adhere to the rule of
allowing azimuth the first place, or preference, over altitude, so that, for
instance, a motion of (— 20° -++ 10°) means that there is negative azimuth
of 20° with positive altitude of 10°, or, in other words, the eye looks 20° to
the left and 10° upwards.

For ordinary clinical work, however, it is well to substitute for motion in
azimuth, motion ‘‘to right and left’’ (dextroduction and l@voduction), which
leaves it an open question whether it is about an axis strictly vertical, or with
an inclination forwards or backwards. For motion in altitude, edevation and
depression are suggested as terms which do not bind us too closely.

Helmholtz’s Plan of analyzing the ocular motions was to consider the
fixation plane (in which both the fixation lines lie) as first elevated or
depressed, above (brow-wards) or below (chin-wards) its ‘‘ initial position,”’
by an angle called the ‘‘elevation angle’’ of fixation. Then, in this plane,
the angle between its mesial line and the fixation line was called the side-
turning angle. By this plan, however, the altitude of the fixation line
steadily lessens as the lateral deviation increases, and it was partly its
adoption which led to the apparent discrepancy between Helmholtz’s laws
of false torsion and those in the text-books. It may be illustrated in a
simple way by a weathercock with a bent stem, as in Fig. 17, where motion

Fig. 19
No altitude

Fig. 17
Varying altitude (to
illustrate torsion-
less motion ac- less motion ac-

Fig. 18

Constant altitude (to
illustrate torsion-

cording to Helm- cording to Don-
holtz). ders).

in azimuth and in altitude are compounded. Fig. 1g illustrates pure motion
in azimuth, and Fig. 18 motion in azimuth with a constant altitude, as in
Donders’ plan.

Since many of our tests are conducted with the patient facing a flat wall,
it way be well to point out in what respects the two plans differ with
reference to such a plane surface.

By Helmholtz’s plan, horizontal lines on the wall represent lines of
elevation of the visual plane, and if each is marked in tangents of degrees
to right and left of a central zero, these represent the amount of lateral
deflection. If, however, the lateral deflection take place first, during the
primary position of the fixation plane, then elevation and depression of this
plane makes the fixation line describe a hyperbolic curve on the wall, with
its concavity outwards.

By the other plan, lines of equal altitude on the wall are hyperbolic
curves with their concavity upward when the eves are elevated, and down-
ward when depressed ; but when the eyes are first deflected to the right or
left, elevation or depression makes the fixation line describe vertical lines
on the wall.

Fig. 20

Fig, 21

Side view of an eye, seen in (ortho-
from A to A’, to show the author’s graphic) projection against a ver-
conception of the difference be- tical plane, superducted from A to
tween the laws of false torsion A’, the three circles being pro-
formulated by Helmholtz and Don- jected as straight lines, to illus-
ders. trate author’s conception of what
would be the path of no torsion
according to Donders, and what
would be the path of no torsion
according to Helmholtz, while the
actual torsion is as if the cornea
pursued the intermediate path
towards P.

Horizontal section of an eye abducted

_ In Figs. 20 and 21 I have represented graphically the different points of
view taken by Helmholtz and Donders. Fig. 20 is a horizontal section of
an eye, viewed from above, and abducted from A to A’. The diameter
which I have named ‘‘ agreed axis”’ is the one about which rotation would
produce exactly the false torsion which all observers are agreed upon.

[TO BE CONTINUED]

1760

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its advantages ?

. Anatomy of Eye

Mechanism of Eye

. Physiology of Vision

Dioptrics of Eye

Laws of Light

. Principles of Optics

Institutes of Refraction

Lenses

Further Study of Lenses

. Numbering of Lenses

. Presbyopia, General Principles
$s Treatment

. Hypermetropia, General Principles

Treatment

. Myopia, General Principles

fh, Treatment

. Astigmatism, General Principles
Pe Treatment

. Anomalies of the Muscles

. Treatment of Muscular Anomalies

21. Ophthalmoscopy

22. Retinoscopy

23. Method of Examination

24. Diseases of Eye

25. Materia Medica

26. Asthenopia

27. Practical Work in Refraction

28. Work with Student’s Practice Eye

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If interested, enclose 5c. for our Announcement containing ‘‘ The Key to Success in Optometry od

October, 1905 it

A New Instrument

To Shorten the Subjective Branch of Refraction
and to Make it More Accurate

3y J. N. RHoaAps, M. D., Instructor in the Ophthalmological
Department of the Philadelphia Polyclinic Hospital
and College for Graduates in Medicine,
in the ‘‘ Ophthalmic Record ”’

PRESUME it is the custom of most
refractors to use minus and plus lenses
alternately before a patient’s eye when
% nearing the point of correction to see
whether he will choose a weaker or a stronger
glass. Such, at least, was the method I was taught
at the Polyclinic Hospital years ago, and more-
over, such is the method being taught there to-day.

It was while as an assistant at the hospital that
I first felt the want of a lens holder in subjective
refraction. When I would want a pair of plus and
minus 0.25 lenses they could not be found. One
or both might be in use, that is, might be in the
trial frame, or they might be in use by some brother
assistant or student. The truth was, as far as the
hospital was concerned, they were eternally

misplaced.

One day I thought of using a pair of hemostatic
forceps to hold the two lenses,
and upon trying it found that it
answered well enough, but the
rings of the shanks were in the
way. Then I tried riveting the
handles of the two lenses together,
but I found them too short, con-
sequently my hand would con-
tinually get into the patient’s
range.

I then had constructed by
D. V. Brown, 736 Sansom Street,
Philadelphia, the instrument as
shown in the cut. This instru-
ment is six and one-half inches
long, and contains a plus and
minus lens of the same relative strength, that is,
a plus 0.50 sph., and a minus 0.50 sph., or minus
and plus quarters. The long straight shank has
the minus lens attached to it and the short shank
carries the plus lens. The short shank is movable
and is held in place by a spring, but when its upper
short end is pressed upon it it rises up parallel and
directly over the long shank, and consequently the
lenses neutralize each other, thus making a third
glass. I also use a pair of cylinders fastened to
the same kind of shanks, which neutralize them-
selves in the same manner. The axes of the
cylinders, as seen in the cut, are placed parallel
with and straight out from the shanks ; they might,
however, with equal advantage, be placed at right
angles. The lens rings I have made one inch and
a quarter in diameter. Every test case of lenses
should contain at least two sets of spheres and two
sets of cylinders, 7. e., one pair of half diopters and
one pair of quarter diopters of both spheres and
cylinders.

After using and testing this instrument for a
long time, I believe it to be just a little less import-
ant than Jackson’s cross-cylinders. It shortens the
time consumed in refraction exceedingly and
renders the result far more accurate. Indeed, after
a case has been shadow-tested, it rarely takes over
five minutes with each eye to finish the refraction
by this method. Really, Iam sometimes ashamed
to take the patient’s money, so quickly is the
refraction completed. Owing to the short time it
takes with this instrument and system, nervous
and even illiterate women answer promptly and
correctly, and thus are not tired out and sent home

HoH E KE Y S

first or second ?”?

to their beds for a couple of days, as is quite often
the result by the generally used method.

This instrument has caused me to entirely
change my method of case-testing. It has been
my custom—and it seems to be the custom now in
general use—to hold a minus and plus lens in my
fingers before a patient’s eye alternately and ask:
‘Which is better, this or this?’’ From the nature
of the question the patient is bound to answer:
‘This.’ Could anything be more indefinite?
The patient instantly forgets which ¢4zs he means,
and the refractor is only a shade less dumb. With
this instrument in my hand I now say tc the patient :
‘‘ Fix your eye on the first letter of the lowest line
you can read, for I am going to place three glasses
before you and I want you to tell which is best:
first, second or third?’’ It will be seen that the
question is definite and that the answer cannot help
but be. I do not always ask them to take the first
letter in the lowest line they can read ; sometimes
I have them take the last, or a special one in the
line, but I invariably have them fix their attention
on a certain letter; in fact, I occasionally restrict
their attention to a certain part of a letter, as for
instance the cross of an A. If the patient, having

been examined before and remembering his former

‘The first is better,
or any other remark,

catechism, begins to answer :
doctor,” Or this 1s better,
[ quietly but firmly break in and say:
only first, second or third, please, and we will
progress much faster and obtain better results.”’

) »)

‘ Answer

Even wien only two glasses are used, or when
using the cross cylinder, there is no earthly reason
why a refractor should not say: ‘‘ Which is better,
And make the patient strictly
confine his answer to fivsé or second.

[ make it a habit to use this instrument always
one way, that is to say, that I always begin by
holding the plus before the eye first, and then
minus and then neutralize. Sometimes, instead of
neutralizing I just let the minus glass pass below
the trial frame and ask: Third? The patient
never seems to realize the difference between that
and the neutralized lenses. Then, too, I often use
only the minus and plus alternately at first, and
use the third or plain glass when I am on the
‘‘knife edge.’? If I suspect my patient is trying to
lead me astray, of course I vary my movements.
It is a good thing, however, to have and to stick
to a regular system.

It is surprising how much quicker one can
come to accurate results by using this lens holder.
Its long handle enables one to keep out of the line
of vision, and so quickly can one change from
minus to plus or neutralize that the patient can
instantly and accurately judge which is best.

If there are any left who do not use the cross-
cylinder test, they can much shorten their work,
and I humbly add, make it decidedly more accu-
rate by using these cylinders. I frequently use

Fon

a 1761

two cylinders in a hemostatic forceps when I want
to use higher ones than I have on my instrument,
but, of course, they cannot thus be neutralized,
yet, as I stated above, the third one can be made
by passing the lens beyond the eye.

It seems almost unnecessary to show how the
instrument acts, or rather how it brings the result,
as, except for the third glass, it acts, of course, the
same as though they were held in the fingers. We
will suppose that a given eye needs a plus 1.25 sph.
to correct it, and you have in the testing frame
before it a plus 1.50 sph. This is evidently a plus
0.25 D. too strong. Now, if you place the half
diopter sphere before him and ask: ‘‘ Which is
best, fst (+ 0.50 sph.), or second (— 0.50 sph.),
or third (plano)? He will instantly choose second,
because it is self-evident that the plus 0.50 sph.
made it three-quarters of diopter too strong, while
the minus 0.50 sph. made only an error of a quarter
of a diopter. The plano, it is apparent, makes no
change. Continuing the examination by reducing
the lens a quarter you have in the trial frame his
exact correction and he is unable to choose between
the first or second, as both make it worse, but at
once accepts the ¢hzrd or neutralized glass, which
as will be understood, makes no change.

sy this method of refraction
one need never ask leading ques-
tions. The fact is, it never should
be done. What a common thing
it is to hear a refractor ask:
‘Better on or off?’’ Now, if an
opinionated person is being ex-
amined, especially an old one,
who thinks he can see well
enough with the glass before him,
and fears that if it is taken away
it cannot be found again, he is
sure to answer: ‘‘ Better off,”
because he has made up his mind
to stick to that glass through
thick and thin; but with the first
second or third testing system he will answer the
question: ‘‘ Which is better, on or off?’’ without
knowing it.

I never ask a patient to judge between two
lenses when there is only a slight difference. To
illustrate ; I will suppose a patient’s true correction
is plus 2.00 sph. I do not hold before him a plus
2.25 sph. and then a plus 2.00 sph. and ask him to
choose between them, because it is a difficult and
nerve-harrowing task. I put either one of them in
the trial frame and have the patient quickly select
the correct one by the use of my instrument.
I wish to call the attention to the fact that it always
magnifies the error. In the case given above, if I
use the half diopters, in the plus test it triples the
error, and in the minus test it halves it. If I use
quarters, in the plus test the error is doubled, and
in the minus test it is exactly right, so that the
patient has an easy task to judge between the
proper correction and plus 0.50 sph. added. The
cylinders act the same as the spheres.

Anyone using this instrument and carrying out
this system will be surprised to find out how much
shorter will be the time consumed in refracting
each case, and what I believe is more to the point,
he will not have his patients go away half sick,
complaining to everyone they meet, and dreading
the day when they will need to return.

“The Optical Department and Workshop
Notes Le The Keystone are of the greater interest
to me.”’—Irvin Hl, Ecker, Jeweler and Optician,
Whitehall, Wisconsin.

|
}
i)

De Zeng’s Luminous Ophthalmoscope

In this new Ophthalmoscope, which is attracting universal attention because of the remarkably clear, wide and beau-
tiful view it gives by either the direct or indirect method of examination, perfection in instrumentation is realized. It con-
sists of the latest model of the Loring Ophthalmoscope, in combination with the De Zeng Electric Lighting Attachment.
We make it also in the Knapp, May or Morton Ophthalmoscope. You can use it on your own battery or reducer. The
lamps are 5'% volts.

De Zeng’s Luminous Retinoscope

Of the various methods for estimating the refraction of the eye objectively, Retinoscopy is by far the most practical
and accurate.

As the science of Retinoscopy is based upon the study of the fundus reflex, light is the all-important factor in pro-
ducing the phenomena from which the deductions are made.

In the Luminous Retinoscope, which consists of the Thorington Plane Mirror Retinoscope in combination with the
De Zeng Electric Lighting Attachment, the ideal Retinoscope is obtained.

The bright and beautiful reflex which this Retinoscope presents to view, justly places it in the foremost position
among all of the instruments used in the practice of Retinoscopy. It gives the exact character and amount of the refractive
error in a moment and dees not fatigue or annoy the patient.

Pyne

) De Zeng’s
} Ophthalmometroscope

FOR EXAMINING THE EYE AND MEASURING
ITS REFRACTION OPHTHALMOSCOPICALLY

De Zeng Optical Co,
Philadelphia

This instrument consists of the De Zeng Luminous Ophthalmoscope with the addition of an illuminated test object of
multiple radiating lines, so arranged as to be projected and focused upon the retina.

This instrument gives a brilliant illumination and wide field of view, which is wholly unobstructed when the test
object is thrown out of focus. It also furnishes an exact objective test of sreat value, because by reason of the absolute
independence existing between the means employed for focusing the test obje ct on the retina and those provided for viewing
it there, the element of inaccuracy, due to the unknown state of the observer’s accommodation, is wholly eliminated.

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October, 1905

Optical Organizations

NATIONAL

American Association of Opticians (1898)

B. B. CuARK, President, Rochester, N. Y.
Wm. kK. Hustron, Secretary, Kips City, Mo.
Meets annually, Next me#ting to be held in Rochester,
IN. 2906;
Worshipful Company of Spectacle Makers (England)
(1629)
Gipes, M. P., Master.

HON. ALBAN G.. EL.
Gon; @ DAVIES SEWELE,
London, &. C., England.

Clerk, Guildhall,

British Optical Association (1895)

M. W. DunscomBn, F. B..O. A., President.
J. H. Strcnre re, F.R.S.L., F.B.0.A., Secretary, 17 Shaftes-
bury Avenue, London, W., England.

Canadian Association of Opticians (1896)
EF. BE. Luke, President.
H. J. Gutaer, Secretary and Treasurer, Toronto.

Scottish Optical Association (1905)
JAMES CHALMERS, President, Springburn, Glasgow,

D. L. Murray, Secretary, 621 Duke Street, Glasgow.

The Australasian Optical Association (1904)

. BARRACLOUGH, B. O. A., President.

A. A. G. Cocgs, B. O, A., Secretary, Sydney, N.S. W.
Phi-Omicron Fraternity (1904)

Joun C. Epernarptr, President.

CG. S. Hart, Secretary, Lynn, Mass.

The Optical Specialists’ Association of America (1904)
J. G. CLARK, President, Sioux City, Iowa.

G. E. Boyce, Secretary, Waterloo, Lowa.

American Association of Wholesale Opticians (1593)

J. T. BrAayvon, President, Chicago, Ill.
A. REED MCINTIRE, Secy., 723 Sansom St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Next meeting, in New York, in 1905.

INTERSTATE

New England Association of Opticians (1894)

ALBERT A. CARTER, President, Boston, Mass.

G A. BARRON, Secretary, 3 Winter St., Boston, Mass.
Meets third Tuesday of each month, except July and

August,

Northwestern Optical Association (1901)

J. W. GRAINGER, President, Rochester, Minn.
E. C. Roperts, Secretary, Red Wing, Minn.

STATE
Pennsylvania Optical Society (1895)

H. E. HERMAN, President, Williamsport, Pa.
C. A. LONGSTRETH, Secretary, 228 Market St., Phila., Pa.
New York State Optical Society (1806)

W. W. BrssELn, President, Rochester, N. Y.

RoGER FF. WriLiamMs, Secretary, 455 Main St., Buffalo, N. Y.
Indiana Optical Society (1896)

J. H. Evuts, President, South Bend, Ind.

Miss MARGARET J. ERISMAN, Secretary, Lafayette, Ind.

Michigan Society of Optometrists (1596)

P. ScHoniER, President, Hancoek, Mich.
E. Ermer, Secretary aud Treasurer, 105 Western Avenue,
Muskegon, Mich.

lowa Optical Society (1897)
ReNAuD, President, Keokuk, Iowa.
BILLS, Secretary, Vinton, lowa.

BE. F.
B. M.

(1898)

Groree A. RoGcers, President, Chicago, IL
QO. J. HaLBe, Secretary, 501 Trude Building, Chicago, Ul.

IWinois Optical Society

California State Association of Optometrists (1899)

FE. W. LAUFER, President, Oakland, Cal.
ALBERT J. SCHOHAY, Secy., 308 Hayes St., San Francisco, Cal,

Washington Association of Opticians (1899)

H. CLAY Eversourn, President, Seattle, Wash.
LEANDER Burt, Secretary, 715 First Ave., Seattle, Wash,
Granite State Optical Association (1900)
L. E. WHITE, President, Concord, N. H.
W. E. BuRPEE, Secretary, Manchester, N. H.
Meets third Wednesday of January, March, May, Sep-
tember and Noyember.

Wisconsin Association of Optometrists (1900)
A. J. STOESSEL, President, Milwaukee, Wis.
E, Ek. THomas, Secretary, Milwaukee, Wis.
North Carolina Optical Society (1900)
F. W. MAHLER, President, Raleigh, N. C.
SAMUEL RAPPORT, Secretary, Durham, N. C.
Minnescta Optical Association (1900)

—— = ——— - ee

Maine Association ef Opticians (1901)

H. E. Murpock, President, Portland, Maine.
RoBERT B. Swirt, Secretary, Portland, Maine.
Tennessee Optical Society (1901)

H. J. Cook, President, Knoxville, Tenn.
GEO. R. CALHOUN, Seeretary, Union and Summer Sts.,
Nashville, Tenn.

Colorado Optical Association (1901)
R. B. Fincu, President, Denver, Colo.
R. H. Brecet, Secretary, 636 Sixteenth St., Denver, Colo.
Miss £.H.CHAPMAN, Cor.Secy., 1655 Welton St., Denver, Colo.

Kansas Association of Opticians (1901)

FE. W. Hunt, President, Burlingame, Kans.
H. T. Corson, Secy. and Treas,, Kansas City, Kans.
Missouri Association of Opticians

C. M. Wirerener, President, Columbia, Mo.
EuMAr H. ScuMmtpt, Seey. and Treas., Washington, Mo.
Next meeting, May 8, 1906, in Ikansas City.

(1901)

Virginia State Optical Association (1902)

W. Wayt Roya, President, Martinsville, Va.

JOHN W. BuCHANAN, Secretary, Richmond, Va.
Ohio Optical Society (1902)

EF. W. WaAttis, President, Columbus, Ohio.

EDWIN L. JONES, Secretary, Sandusky, Ohio.

Kentucky Optical Society (1902)
L. J. Backus, President, Louisville, Ky.
A. S. Retves, Secretary, Winchester, Ky.
Next meeting in Georgetown, October 17, 1905.
North Dakota Optical Association (1903)
Cuas. G. CONYNE, President, Mandan, N. Dak.
W. R. BLAKELY, Secretary, Grafton, N. Dak.
New Jersey Optical Society (1905)
FrepErick H. HewxLerrr, President, Paterson, N. J.
J. J. HARTMAN, Secretary, 16 Howard St., Newark, N. J.

South Dakota Optical Association (1903)
WILLIAM H. Frrrz, President, Sioux Falls, 8. Dak.
D. G. GALLEYT, Secretary, Aberdeen, S. Dak.

Texas Optical Association (1903)
West Carucartr, President, Galveston, Texas.
B, R. STOCKING, Secretary, Belton, Texas.
Rhode Island Society of Optometry (1903)

WALTER BLAKE, President, Providence, R. I.

G. FrReDERIC BEANE, Secretary, 139 Mathewson Street,
Providence, R. I.
Meets first Monday of each month,
South Carolina Optical Society (1903)
W. E. Avery, President, Columbia, 5. C.

M. R. ABBE, Secretary, Columbia, 5. C.

Quebec Optical Association

2. De MESLE, President. .

P. G. Moun’, Secretary, cor. St. Denis and Dorchester Sts.,
Montreal, Quebec.

(1904)

Georgia State Optical Association (1904)
C. Ik. Forsom, President, 28 Whitehall St., Atlanta, Ga.
C. H. KIrTrTRELL, Secretary, Dublin, Ga.
Opticians’ League of the State of New York (1904)
(Dispensing Opticians)
E. B. Mryrow1rz, President, New York City.
A. SHAW, Secretary, 1145 Broadway, New York City.
Louisiana Optical Society (1905)
LOUIS CLAUDEL, President, New Orleans, La.
S. P. ScHUESSLER, Secretary, Baton Rouge, La,
Nova Scotia Optical Society (1905)
A. ©. WHITTEKER, President, Halifax, N.S.

G. A. BURBRIDGE, Secretary, Halifax, N.S.

New Mexico Association of Optometrists (1905)
Orro G. BeBBER, President, Albuquerque, N. Mex.
GEO. F. Everett, Secretary, Albuquerque, N. Mex.

LOCAL

Central New York Optical Society
H. C. Watts, President, Syracuse, N. Y.
JAMES HOLDEN, Secretary, Syracuse, N. Y.
Meets third Thursday of each month.

(1895)

New York City Optical Society (1897)

E. LeRoy RyYeEr, President.
2 M.LocKwoop, Ree. Sec., 119W. Fifteenth St., New York.
Meets second Wednesday of each month.

Rochester Optical Society (1897)

Harry M. Bestor, President, Rochester, N. Y
C. I. SUMERISKI, Secretary, Rochester, N. Y.
Utica Optical Club (1901)
RICHARD PERLEN, President. _
C. T. EVANS, Secretary, Utica, N. Y.
Chicago Optical Society (1902)

W.F.Newcompe, President, State and Adams Sts., Chicago, IL
O. J. HALBE, Secretary, 501 Trude Building, Chicago, Il,

KEYS TON &

1763

Niagara District Optical Society (1902)
JONAS HousE, President, Welland, Ont. _
F. G. DUNLOP, Secretary and Treasurer, St. Catharines, Ont.
Optical Society of Western New York (1903)
RoGerR F, WILLiaAMs, President.
ERNEST V. SYRCHER, Secretary, Buffalo, N.Y.
Seattle Optical Society (1903)
CHARLES G. HoLcoms, President.
LEANDER Burt, Secretary and Treasurer, 715 First Ave.,
Seattle, Wash.
Los Angeles Association of Opticians (1903)
FRED. DETMERS, President.
FF, LEE FULLER, Secretary, Los Angeles, Cal.
The Pueblo Optical Association (1903)
OREN H. Henry, President, Pueblo, Colo.
JAmMuES A. Howard, Secretary, Pueblo, Colo.

Lowell Optical Society (1903)
F. C. Curr, President.
J. A. McAvoy, Secretary, Lowell, Mass.
Meets second Thursday of March, September, November,

Southern Tier Optical Society of New York (1905)
F. E. Ropsins, President, Elmira, N. Y.
F. A. JORDAN, Secretary, Elmira, N. Y.

Optical Trades Association
(New York City)

(1905)

F, D. Scumipt, President, New York City.

Jos. FRIEDLANDER, Secretary, $ Maiden Lane,New YorkCity.
Detroit Optometry Club

A. W. Kuupt, President.
FRED. R. PRESTON, Secretary, 42 Mott Ave., Detroit.

(1905)

Southern California Optical Society (1905)

L. APFFEL, President.
T. N. Dyscuus, Secretary, Los Angeles, Cal.

The Eyes of School Children

HE widespread and intensifying interest

in the matter of school children’s eyes
is a happy development, credit for which is
mainly due to the refractionists. At the time
of reopening the schools last month, many
of the leading journals of the country de-
voted editorials to the subject, impressing on
school boards and parents alike the necessity
of attention to the eyes of the children be-
fore allowing them to enter upon their studies.
The persistent advertising of the opticians
did more to bring about this reawakening
than all the statistical compilations of the
medical press, and oculists cannot fail to
recognize in this salutary publicity an agency
for good, of which they are deprived by their
ethical ban on advertising.

Now that men, refractionists,
school boards and the public are alive to the

medical

importance of the subject, the next step is
to evolve a plan for the proper examination
of the school pupils’ eyes. Past experience
has proved that a slip-shod, unprofessional
examination by the teachers is a compara-
tively useless and a very dangerous make-
shift.
States and England and found wanting.

It has been tried both in the United
In
a letter to a British exchange, a Manchester
optician criticises very forcibly the system of
examination by teachers recommended by
the medical officer of the education com-
mittee of that city. He writes:

Though the testing is desirable, the scheme
has very serious defects ; one of the worst, proba-
bly, being that the schoolmaster might pass as
normal cases of really defective vision. In one
case, at least, this was what actually took place,

(Continued on page 1767)

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October, 1905

New Apparatus for Photograph-
ing the Fundus of the Eye

OME time ago we called attention
to the attempts made to photograph
the interior of the eye, especially to

those of Dr. Professor Dimmer, who at that
time had succeeded in producing excellent
pictures of the eye-ground of cats. Since
that time Professor Dimmer has made several
improvements in his apparatus, so that he
now can photograph the fundus of the human
eye in an instant. We give here a transla-
tion of the description of the apparatus as
given by Professor Dimmer :

In my paper read before the last Con-
gress of Ophthalmology I mentioned that as
I had entirely got rid of the ocular reflexes
and succeeded in getting a sufficiently large
field of view, nothing remained for me to do

beyond obtaining photographs with - still
sharper definition. My endeavors were

crowned with complete success, and to-day
[ am able to lay before you a collection of
photographs which show a marked advance
as regards sharpness of detail, so much so
that almost all the minutiz seen with the
ophthalmoscope can be seen in the prints.
This success was not due to any improve-
ment in the apparatus, but to the fact that
the exposures were practically instantaneous.
The duration of exposure, which formerly
took one-fifth of a second, or longer, is now
reduced to one-sixteenth—one-eighteenth of
a second, or even one-twenty-filth. In order
to reduce the time as much as this I found it
a sine gua non that the whole of the light which
emerged from the half of the pupil should be
concentrated on to the photographic plate.
The accompanying diagram shows my
ite

ment by which I have got rid of the con-

apparatus as I now use it. arrange-
fusing reflexes and flare is by placing a
plane mirror 5S, Fig. 2, exactly in front of
the patient’s pupil at an angle of forty-five
degrees with the optical axis. This mirror
receives the whole of the condensed light
from the source Z, and reflects it into the
eye through half the pupil, so that the lhght
which passes out of the remaining half of the
pupil is alone employed to form the image.
In order to obviate the formation of reflexes
near the edge of the mirror, due to half of
the pupil being hidden, half of the camera
blocked out by an
This lens O,

planar objective of 160 mm. focus.

objective 1s opaque
is a Zeiss
In the

diagram the light from the lower half of the

diaphragm O,.

pupil will pass through the upper half of
the planar lens, while the light proceeding
to the lower half of the planar is screened
off by the diaphragm. It will be noticed in
this my last model that
aperture of the planar //4.5, which I may

the very large

1 Ei

add is 45 mm. in diameter, takes in the
whole of the rays emerging from the half
pupil, so that none is wasted. The image
of the half pupil formed by the first objec-
tive O, is, of course, half-moon shaped, and
so large that in my former instrument the
decentered lens (an astigmat of only 19 mm.
diameter) invariably cut off a portion of the
light.

The frosted screen used in the illumi-
nating apparatus is now abandoned, so that
the image of the electric arc Z is formed in
the plane of the open diaphragm Y. From
this diaphragm an inverted image of the
illuminating system 4 is formed in the half
of the pupil reflected in the mirror S, by
which means the area of the background of
the eye which appears in the photograph, and
no other part, will be illuminated.

fi
-.— pad Vs
— ‘« Tyke china 0 a 0 ae om 0 oe is
al -— Be We Re ee SS cant an cae
~_ gi one Hye Ms es Se Ne 7
pea --- oS _ oS SF a i a odd
care | [ss AM en ae:
ces Saar Lis) | e

eee ee
Fig. 2

The shutter 1’, lies immediately behind
the diaphragm 2), while the second shutter
V’,, which I have changed to a roller blind,
lies just in front of the plate # By means
of a mirror (not shown in the figure) the
image of the fundus can be observed up to
the very moment of exposure. A squeeze
of the rubber ball Z causes the mirror to flap
up, and at the same moment both shutters,
controlled by a single wire, are opened and
closed again by an electric current. The eye
is thus exposed a trifle longer than the plate,
7. é., about one-eighth second.

The front part of the instrument between
the two objectives must never be touched.
The focusing due to anomalies of refraction
in the examined eye, is obtained by racking
the focusing screen / in or out, as the case
may be.

The position of the eye to be examined
is obtained by getting the patient to fix the
image of a flame (seen in a mirror placed
before him) with his other eye, or else by
means of a cross wire placed in the illumi-
nating zone, which is observed by the patient
with the eye about to be pnotographed.
By this latter method a patient possessing
only one eye can have it photographed.

In emmetropia the image taken by
the direct method has a diameter of about
The original negatives show an
that

the largest picture shows a magnification

20 mm.

enlargement of three diameters, so

K BY Ss Ff ONE

1765

of ro to 11 diameters. I have shown that
by lateral and vertical movements of the
patient's eye a much more extended area can
be photographed. This extension, after re-
peated trials, is found to be about 10-12
times the diameter of the disk in the meri-
dianal line. The construction of the instru-
ment has been undertaken by the firm of
Zeiss, which has met my wishes in the fullest
way, so that all the requirements necessary
have been carried out and no further adjust-
ment or alteration in the illuminating appara-
tus ha$ been found to be needed. The two
large tubes,* one of which contains the con-
densing lenses for illumination, the other the
two sets of objectives for the camera, are
firmly fixed to each other, but, nevertheless,
are capable of coarse and fine adjustment for
the eye. All that is necessary to take a
picture is to adjust the are light (which is
identical with that employed by Zeiss for his
projection camera), so as to illuminate the
fundus to enable the image to form a focus
on the plate in the camera slide. Last year
I used a Nernst lamp, but this I have been
able to replace by the more powertul arc
light, so that a photograph can now be

taken in an instant even by the merest tyro.

* These tubes are indicated in the diagram. The entire
apparatus is very massive and heavy, being about five to six
feet in length. The wheels in the apparatus are attached
to long screws, Which enable the instrument to be raised or
lowered, turned laterally, or moved nearer to or further from
the patient’s eye, whereby much time is saved, as the adjust-
ments can be instantly effected.

Single Lens versus Anastigmat in
Photography

That a single lens of sufficiently long
focus is infinitely superior to the most ex-
pensive anastigmat listed for any particular
size of plate in landscape work, says The
Amateur Photographer, is capable of demon-
stration, as we have often shown; and there-
fore we are always glad when we can quote
an opinion in support of our own on the
subject by one whose work is pretty well up
Such is the statement of J. H.
Field, of Berlin, Wisconsin, in an address

to the top.

before the twenty-fourth convention of the
Photographers’ Association of America, the
whole of which is well worth quoting, although
we have only room for the following:

SOire

camera or costly lens, although there are

does not need an expensive

times when they come handy. A camera
with a generous length of bellows so one can
use a long focus lens—say, of about four-
teen or fifteen inches for a 5x 7 plate, make
a very good combination; and other sizes in
proportion. Personally, I prefer a single
lens used at full opening; and if the picture
be too sharp (as it generally is), a judicious
use of two or three thicknesses of celluloid

.or bolting cloth between negative and print-

ing paper will work wonders.”’

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@23 Sansom Street PHILADELPHIA

October, 1905

The Eyes of School Children

(Continued from page 1763)

A girl whom I had fitted and who saw barely 3 in
the left eye without glasses was passed as_nor-
mal (vision in right eye was $), and was told she
could see as well without glasses as with, giving
the girl, of course, the impression that the glasses
were useless. She was tested with both eyes open,
as were all the rest. How the medical officer hopes
to obtain ‘‘ results carefully and accurately,’’ as the
circular states, by such means, I do not know.
Perhaps he does. Anyhow, the teachers would
certainly prefer to be left alone with their teaching
and leave optology to the optologist or oculist.

And we are sure that American teachers,
cognizant of their inability as eye specialists,
would prefer to leave optometry to the opto-
metrists or oculists, as the case may be.
This question of school children’s eyes is
one which has an exceptional interest for the
opticians, in that their profession and the
public good would be equally benefited by

its proper solution.

New England Association of Opticians

The New England Association of Opticians
held its regular monthly meeting at Young’s Hotel,
Boston, Mass., on Tuesday evening, September
roth, Dr. Wm. L.
Physiology at Tufts’

Ripley, assistant professor of
College Medical School,
Boston, was the speaker of the evening. His sub-
ject was “ Physiology and Neurology of the Eye.”
The remaining lectures of the season will be
A large
attendance at forthcoming gatherings is therefore
anticipated, as the subjects to be treated are
interesting and have a direct bearing upon the
practical work of the optician. Llewellyn A.
Webster, of Metford, Mass., was admitted to
associate membership.

delivered by members of the association.

Rochester Optical Society

The above society after first partaking of a din-
ner at the Masonic Club, held its regular meeting
at the offices of Clark & Bowen, Rochester, on
Tuesday, September 12th. After preliminary busi-
ness had been disposed of, the question of an
educational campaign for the coming year was
Clark
seconded and it was carried that a committee be
appointed to make arrangements for a series of
lectures, the first to be delivered at the next meet-

considered. Mr. Bausch proposed, Mr.

ing. The president appointed Messrs. Bausch,
Bissell, Benedict and Clark as a committee with
An application for

3urchard,

power to act in this matter.
membership was received from J. A.
which was read and referred to the executive com-

mittee. The meeting then adjourned.

Optotypes for Determining the Sight
of Myopic Eyes

To measure the sight of myopic eyes in the
remotest point there exist small optotypes by
Pfliiger and also by Bjerke. Koster did not find
these very satisfactory, so he tried, states G. F.
Rochat, in the Ophthalmoscope, to get better results
by photographing on glass; the difficulty was to
reduce print to a sufficiently small size and yet get
clear and sharp photographs. The letters must be
very small indeed, for to measure full sight in the

2 el

p. 2 of a myope of 20 D., the letters must not
exceed 0.075 mm. (for they should be seen at 5 cm.
under an angle of 5 minutes). The optotypes, as
phographed on glass, are protected by a metal
frame, and should be read against the sky. Their
distance from the eye can be measured on a metal
rod, along which a small “‘ visir”’
letters are small that a non-myopic examiner can-
not control the patient’s reading. Therefore, the
same letters have been photographed on a larger

is movable. The

scale for the ophthalmic surgeon’s use.

Diamond Anniversary of J. J. Bausch

J. J. Bausch, of the Bausch & Lomb Optical
Company, Rochester, N. Y., recently celebrated
his seventy-fifth birthday, and one of the most
notable features which marked the occasion was
the presentation to each employee of the company,
including those attached to the New York, Boston
and Chicago offices, of a sum equivalent to one
week’s wages.

Mr. Bausch is in the truest sense a pioneer of
the optical industry in the United States, and has

JIRA SCH

literally grown up with the business. He is a
native of Suessen, Wurtemberg, Germany, and his
early life was spent in the employ of his brother,
a maker of and dealer in optical goods. He came
to this country in 1849, and the American optical
industry being still in embryo, he gave his atten-
tion to wood turning, which business he pursued
for sometime both in Buffalo and Rochester,
The accidental loss of two fingers, however, ren-
dering further progress in this line impossible,
Mr. Bausch, then more sure of his ground and
more favored by the continuous advance in science
and mechanics, turned again to the optical .trade,
purchased a photographic studio in Rochester,
which he conducted in partnership with his com-
patriot, Henry Lomb. Thus was laid the founda-
tion of one of the largest and most important
optical and manufacturing concerns in the world.

The subsequent history of the firm has been
one of uninterrupted growth, increase of output
and enlargement of interest and productive and
distributative facilities. The original partnership
has been welded with the passing of years, but the
business has also had the benefit of fresh energy
and younger blood, as witness the following active
members of the firm in addition to its patriarchial
founders: Messrs. Henry, William and Edward
Bausch; Carl F., Henry C. and Adolph Lomb and
W. Drescher.

For aman of his activities, Mr. Bausch wears
his seventy and five odd summers well. THE
IXEYSTONE joins his numerous friends in wishing
him many more years to enjoy the ample fruition of
his labors.

KEYS TON

Ee 1767

Affection of the Light-sense in Myopia

Dr. Seggel was the first to draw attention to
the fact that the light-sense shows a rearked
decrease in all forms of myopia, even if not
accompanied by visible ophthalmoscopic changes.
In his latest contribution he refers to the examina-
tion of nearly three hundred school children, and
finds his former surmises amply corroborated.
Most impaired is the faculty of central perception
of -light as tested with Treitel’s test (a modification
of Férster’s photometer), in which he uses, states
R. Gruber in the Ophthalmoscope, a small white
square of 3 mm., instead of Forster’s black lines
and notes—the smallest aperture of the diaphragm,
3 mm. in a normal eye—necessary for its determin-
ation. Segegel finds that even very small degrees
of myopia lead to decrease of perception of light,
which attains exceedingly low figures in the higher
forms of myopia (2, of the normal between 7 and
9 dioptrics).

Decrease of vision in failing light is a well-
known symptom of declining age, but this must, of
course, be much more marked if, as in myopic
subjects, this failing of the light-sense dates from
the years of youth. It is also important to know
that the hemeralopia in myopics is least trouble-
some in reading, which remains satisfactory even
in bad light, while they experience great difficulty
Hypermetro-
pics, on the other hand, require strong light for

in finding their way in the twilight.

reading, not because they are hemeralopic, but so
as to derive the benefit of a contracted pupil.
Segegvel concludes that his results revealing dimin-
ished light-sense in even low myopia prove that
myopia implies a morbid affection of the neuro-
epithelium, and that, therefore, its progress and
spreading should be checked by all possible means.

Cliffs of Glass

While on his way from Chicago to Philadelphia,

the other day, says the Saturday Evening Post, a
traveler was interested to observe, along the line of
railroad where it ran through the Alleghanies, odd-
looking little factories nestled here and there at the
feet of tall cliffs. By inquiry he ascertained that
these were glass mills, engaged in getting the raw
The cliffs, he
was informed, were cliffs of glass, practically, and
the work done consisted in blasting the stuff out,
heating the fragments of quartz red-hot, then throw-
ing them into cold water (which causes them to
split into small pieces), and finally grinding the
material to powder, in which shape it was shipped
to the glass-makers, who converted it into glass by
melting it in a furnace and adding the proper ingre-
dients.

material out of the quartz rocks.

Such glass, said the person who knew,
was only fit for bottles and other inferior uses, fine
elass being made from clear quartz sand, of which
large deposits are found in some locailites.

The conductor on the train, who joined in the
conversation, remarked that railroad ties, cheap
and decay-proof, were being made of glass, and
quoted a scientific passenger who had told him the
time might yet arrive when people would ride in
elass cars over glass rails, watching the glass tele-
graph poles fly by at seventy-five miles an hour,
and even crossing rivers by glass bridges upheld by
glass piles. The traveler replied thoughtfully that
already glass piles were used for supporting docks
and piers, being decidedly preferable to wood for
the reason that they are rot-proof, and in addition
cannot be attacked and riddled by the destructive
teredo,

——

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WHO SUPPLY THE TRADE
A.S. ALOE CO., 513 Olive Street, St. Louis.
5 MISSOURI, ARKANSAS, LOUISIANA,

JOHN L. BORSCH & CO., 1324 Walnut
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KF. H. EDMONDS, Washington, D.C, DIS-

If you give your customers a choice of bifocal glasses,

they are pretty apt to choose the kind without lines— TRICT OF COLUMBIA,
ee an. OF Tse : CHAS, A. EUKER & CO., 312-314 Howard
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NEW YORK, CONNECTICUT, MINNE-

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: “ f : Rey os JOHN L. MOORE & SONS, Atlanta.
handling Kryptoks most effectively, write the manufacturer GEORGIA
controllinge your territory. WEDEKIND OPTICAL CO., Louisville,
oO - - Ky. KENTUCKY.

JOHN WIMMER, 16 North Pennsylvania

GOLD MEDAL AWARDED AT Sr. Louls, 1904 Street, Indianapolis. INDIANA.

THIS IS AN EYE WATER

ALL EYE WATERS OF ANY VALUE ARE EYE REMEDIES
WHAT IS A REMEDY? Any substance or preparation used with the view of curing or

alaying morbid action. As it would require many of the valuable pages of THE KEYSTONE to
publish the testimonials received from dealers and users of The Great German Kye Water, I refer
dealers in optical goods to a few of the leading opticians in different parts of the country, selling
this remedy, some of them for more than 20 years. This remedy is NOT for sale in drug stores,
but by the optical trade EXCLUSIVELY. NO COCAINE in this formula.

AN ACTUAL FACT

The Great German Eye Water

(From the formula of Dr. Agnew) is the best,
simplest and most effective preparation ever
compounded, forinflammation of the eyes or eye-
lids, Conjunctivitis, Blepharitis or scaly eye-
lids, burning, smarting or itching of eyes. Its

antiseptic properties destroy the germs and { W. Guilbault, Biddeford, Me. Mawhinney & Ryan Co., Omaha, Nebr.
prevent acute inflammation. The phenomenal E. W. Folsom, Sommersworth, N. If. J. S. Jenson & Sons, Salt Lake City, Utah.
success of this Kye Remedy, has encouraged Dr. W. W. Hutchins, Newport, Vt. Wm. Wilson, Oakland, Cal.
several opticians, (would-be) eye specialists and D. M. Chapin, Springfield, Mass. R. W. Chamberlain, Marshalltown, Towa.
*“home-made’’ Doctors to put upon the market Eastman & Co., Providence, R. 1. Hight & Fairfield Co., Butte, Montana.
Eye Remedies of divers kinds, and by extensive I’, Lyman, Bridgeport, Conn. C. L. Cook, Clarksville, Tenn.
advertising attempt to divert the attention of John Emdin, Utica, N. Y. Dr. E. H. Armstrong, Jacksonville, Fla,
the trade from a valuable Collyrium that has REFER J B. H. Brooke, Brooklyn, N. Y. The G, A. Bahn Dia, & Optical Co., Aus-
deen used for years in nearly every hospital in ENCES: | August Kost, Jr., Jersey City, N. J. tin, Texas.
the world, to remedies of which little is known, J. G. Corbett, Sharpsburg, Pa, W. I. Haynes, Liverpool, N. Y.
except by the advertisers, but the many opti- S. Engwiller, Mansfield, Ohio. Hi. Castleberg, Baltimore, Md.
clans who have sold the German [Xye Water for Wim. Gross Delphi, Ind. C. S. Hart, Lynn, Mass.
20 to 25 years will attest to its valueand recom- HH. Dia G: nee Lock wood, Joliet, Ill. Mermod & Jaccard Co., St. Louis, Mo.
mend no other. Dr. Agnew’s portrait is on Dr. L. P. Merar, Marinette, Wis. Oscar Muller, Panama.
every box. Get the original. Sold onits merits. Dr A.C Katon, ( ‘olege Mound, Mo. And 1000 others.

A handsome Show Case with your order for three dozen bottles. Also your special label on The Following Jobbers in Optical Goods are Selling Agents for The Great German Eye Water:
eae ra Pies are ordered, and express paid to all parts of the United States. Price, $1.63 D. V. Brown, 740 Sansom St., Philadelphia, Pa Globe Optical Co., Boston, Mass
per dozen, ¥1v.00 per gross, Order from your jobber or direct from the proprietor. Jos. Friedlander & Bro,, 8 Maiden Lane, New York. Chinn-Beretta Optical Co., San Francisco, Cal.

W. | ee CUSHMAN, 7i1 Boylston Shes Boston, Mass. John Scheidig & Co., 43 Maiden Lane, New York

BALTIMORE

Importing and

PTICAL

Manufacturing Opticians

mx) PRESCRIPTION

Order Will 4 Work With Us is a
Show [hat We Carry
Complete Stocks, With All SPECIALTY

The Latest Patent and

ee ee ee ee ee

This Department Contains All

— Standard Goods
OMPANY N of all APPARATUS
- ee Needed to Turn Out Orders

28 W. Lexington Street

BALTIMORE, MD. PROMPT aw ACCURATE

WRITE TO-DAY

ee ee ee ee ee

October, 1G05 T

Photographing Pictures

O produce a really good copy of a
photograph or print, writes Percy J.

Slater in the focus, often appears
one of the most difficult of photographic
operations with which the average worker 1s
acquainted, but with reasonable care, and
attention to details, good results may readily
be obtained, even by a beginner.

In the first place, it should
Reproducing a be carefully borne in» mind
Picture that when copying we are
not photographing an actual
solid object, but merely the representation of
the object, printed on paper or other sup-
port. The subject may perhaps be a land-
scape, but to attempt to photograph the
print under the same conditions, and in a
landscape,
Whilst

landscape proper consists of various planes,

similar manner to the actual

would certainly mean failure. the
the print consists of one plane only, the
original planes of the landscape being repre-
sented by a series of gradations, ranging
from almost white paper to black, or other
colored deposit. When photographing the
print we are at the same time photographing
the surface of the paper upon which it 1s
made, and it is through ignoring this fact
that failures sometimes are due.

For instance we have, say, to copy a
photograph printed upon a rough paper. It
we set up the print and camera, and make
an exposure without taking any special pre-
cautions as to the lighting, we shall be almost
certain to obtain a negative in wnich the
grain of the paper is very pronounced.
Although we should probably scarcely notice
the grain of the paper on the ground-glass
screen while focusing, the lens transmits its
light and shade on to the sensitive plate with
unerring accuracy.

As in all special photogra-
Best Cameras phic work, there are certain
for the Work

types of cameras which are
more suitable for copying
purposes than others, and while practically
any stand camera may be used for the pur-
pose, and even many hand cameras, a camera
of the square bellows pattern is preferable to
one fitted with tapering bellows. It should
be fitted with rising, falling, and cross fronts,
Ifa

very light, conical-bellows form of camera is

and be rigid and firm, and fairly heavy.

used, it should be clamped to a heavy base-
board, or weighted in one way or another, in
Double-

extension bellows are necessary when a copy

order to insure the utmost rigidity.

as large as the original is required, unless
one is able to shorten the focus of the exist-
ing lens by means of a supplementary lens.
By using such a supplementary lens, or mag-
nifier, a camera with a comparatively short

H&E

me ¥Y &

pull of bellows may be pressed into service,
but I always prefer to use a lens of fairly
long focus when possible.

The lenses should be care-
The Lens to Use fully selected, and single or
other lenses hkely to pro-
duce distortion should on no account be em-
ployed for copying, especially when straight
lines appear on the print. The modern ana-
stigmats give the finest results, and I advise
all those who possess one of these to use it
in preference to any other lens for all copy-
ing purposes. A good rectilinear, by a reli-
able maker, will also give reliable results,
though it may sometimes be necessary to
stop down to f//11 or //16, to secure marginal
definition. Never use a smaller diaphragm
than is absolutely necessary—personally, I
generally use //8.

Whilst a specially constructed stand is a
great convenience, it is not an absolute neces-
sity. A board measuring, say, 5 feet long by
18 inches wide, will be a valuable assistance
to those who do not possess a proper stand.
On this board the camera may be moved
backward and forward, taking care that the
focusing’ screw 1s just off the board, or the
camera will be tilted. A drawing-board may
be employed for holding the print to be
copied. The print should be affixed to the
board by means of drawing-pins, and as near
The left end
of the board may then be firmly sandwiched

to the right end as possible.

between six or eight 5x7 boxes, filled with
ihe

drawing-board will then stand firmly at right

waste negatives or anything weighty.

angles to the board or table on which it is
resting.
recom-

One is sometimes

Obtaining the mended to measure the dis-

Required Size tance from the copy to the
diaphragm of the lens, and
again, from the diaphragm to the focusing
screen, in order to obtain the required size.
I find, however, that racking the camera to
longer or shorter extension, and adjusting
the the
print to be copied, is much quicker, and a

the distance between camera and
far more certain method of obtaining the de-
sired size. To focus the print, the camera is
racked out to what is judged to be the cor-
rect extension. By slowly sliding the camera
backwards and forwards, and examining the
focusing screen the whole of the time, the
the

image appears rather too small, the camera

correct focus is readily obtained. If

is extended rather further; if too large, the
focusing screen is racked slightly nearer to
the lens. In any case, the final focusing
should be done by moving the camera itself,
and not by manipulating rack and pinion.
To prevent the grain becoming unduly
prominent in the negative, the lighting must

receive very careful attention. A strong side

T ON EB

1769

or top-light throws any grain into bold relief,
which in the negative appears very much
exaggerated. If the work is being done in-
doors, the window should ke at the back of
the camera, so that the light strikes the print
tully at right angles. Any side light should
be cut off trom the print by means of pieces

I find

that an out-door light produces the best

ot card-board or sheets of paper.

results, being more diffused than an ordinary
indoor lighting. To reflect and counteract
the strong top-light, a piece of white paper
may be laid on the board or table, close to
the drawing-board holding the print. A
sheet of white tissue paper, arranged to form
a canopy over the print, will be found most
useful for making the light still more diffused.
A shady spot should, of course, be selected
for the purpose.

When copying glossy prints,

Copying Glossy Or prints under glass, reflec-

Prints tions often cause trouble and
annoyance. To avoid them,
see that the brasswork and all bright portions
of the camera are covered up as much as
possible. It is a good plan to employ a fairly
large sheet of cardboard or other material
with a dark, dead surface, in which a hole
has been cut for the lens alone to protrude.

For copying old and faded photographs,
the image of which has changed toa pale
yellow color, slow, ordinary plates should be
employed. It is surprising what really good
results one can obtain from some of the old
faded prints one is asked to copy. The yel-
low image, being of a non-actinic color,
makes very little impression on an ordinary
plate, therefore good contrast is secured.

If, however, the paper itself should be-
come yellow, or if we are copying an engrav-
ing on toned paper, it will be necessary to
use an isochromatic plate, preferably with a
pale yellow screen. If an ordinary plate is
employed, the high-lights will be lacking in
density.

The exposure should always

The Exposure be as accurate as possible,

Important as upon this generally de-
pends the character of the
resulting negative. Personally, I find the use
of a Watkin’s meter of great assistance in
ascertaining the required exposure. In cal-
culating the exposure when copying equal
size, one important factor must be taken into
consideration, viz., that the exposure with
any given stop must be quadrupled. When
the camera is used at double the normal ex-
tension, //8 really becomes //16, //t1 be-
comes 7/22, and so on. If in doubt as to
the exposure, it is always better to err slightly
on the side of over rather than under-exposure.

In conclusion, I would advise the use of
backed plates for copying, as for all other
work.

Independent Safe Guard

PATENT APPLIED FOR

Angle 2

Angle 5 Angle 6
Straight D Short a

The Latest and Rightly Named

THE SAFE GUARD applied to any guard and the glasses are always sate

BAY STATE OPTICAL CO.

Attleboro, Mass.

PROTEC TION against prescribing

the wrong lens is what the

Ametropometer

Guarantees to the Optictan

It also saves time, which means more
profit to you on your work.

You cannot afford to overlook anything
which increases your profit and at the same
time guarantees your accuracy. — It
you nothing to INVESTIGATE.

Full information free on receipt of your
address. |

The price is 520.00 net.

Johnston Optical Co.
Detroit, Mtch.

Read the following testimonials, just received:

costs

No Goods Sold at Retail

Columbus, Ind., July 1, 1900.
JOHNSTON OPTICAL CO., Detroit, Mich.
Gentlemen :—After giving your Ametropometer ten Gays’ trial I
find it satisfactory. Will send check in a few days.
Yours truly, Js Cs WEAVER
Douglas, Wyo., May 1, 19005.
JOHNSTON OPTICAL CO., Detroit, Mich.

Dear Sirs:—Herewith find draft in payment for Ametropometer
which | am perfectly satisfied with. In several difficult cases it has
been of special value. One case in particular of mixed astigmatism
it proved its value and convinced the customer that he was being
fitted, Ile has better vision than he has had in 20 years

Yours truly, H.R. DANIELS,

HELLO! HELLO!

Give me 1054 John, New York. Something to talk about.

The New Oval Center

Lenticular Lens

Made in any form of Concave Lenses,
Spherical, Sphero-Cylinder and Cylinder,

or any of the above forms in Toric Lenses.

Manufactured by M. EB; STERN, 30 and 38 John St., NEW YORK

We also carry a { AMERICAN OPTICAL CO.
C.atsO Carry 2 2 STEVENS & (CO. and

late 13 { Frames and Lenses
compiete Ane Of | BAUSCH & LOMB OPTICAL CO.)

If you want satisfactory results, send us your It work.
Our motto is: Speed, Accuracy and Perfect Work.

Send for Price=-List

“HUB CASE’ with Lip Fastener

A well-made case in

three grades of leather.

Made in two sizes foi
eyeglass and one size tot

Riding Bow Spectacles
Manufactured and patented by
Hub Optical Case Co.

Oakdale Square
EAST DEDHAM, MASS.

Send 10c. for sample.

Ask your jobber for New Prices on above cases.

October, 1905

Frame Fitting and Adjustment

As the mechanical part of the retrac-
tionist’s work is quite as important as the
strictly professional part, being essential to
the success and completeness of the latter, it
behooves the aspiring optician to thoroughly
master the mysteries and niceties of correct
frame fitting and adjustment. Though we
have frequently covered this subject in these
columns, our readers will find much that 1s
instructive and useful in the following con-
, the Lon-
don lWWatchmaker, Jeweter, Silversmith and
Optician :

tribution by Lionel Laurance to

should lenses

Not

selected for the

only
Points for correction
Consideration

of refractive errors be those
best suited for the purpose
for which they are needed, but the frame in
which the lenses are mounted should be that
which keeps the lenses in front of the eyes in
the needed position. The frame must also
be comlortable, becoming in appearance and
possess sufficient durability.

There are many points for consideration
in connection with the fitting of frames, and
none should be given attention to the exclu-
sion of others—a fault which, however, is not
of infrequent occurrence. Finish and temper
may perhaps, for instance, be thought of
more importance than a proper interpupillary
distance. Quality is of primary importance,
because no frame of pure quality can main-
tain its shape for any length of time. A
frame of ‘‘quality’’ also is lighter and more
elegant ; and this applies, therefore, gener-
ally to the whole stock of the optician. In
other words, goods of poor quality should
not be stocked by the progressive and up-
to-date optician, and it is necessary to have
the requisite assortment of dimensions in
each line of spectacles kept, and a full va-
riety of styles of eyeglasses. And even then,
since the variation in the human face ts great,
in order to fit successfully a spectacle or eye-
olass, some slight adjustment of the frame
may also be needed, and the nack of adjust-
ine a frame is one that, while not difficult to
acquire, needs practice.

In order that lenses may have the effect
intended and achieve fully the benefit which
should be derived from their use, their cen-
ters must be so placed that the lines of vision
pass through them; otherwise there is the
effect of lenses combined with prisms, which
may produce a condition of , heterophoria.
They must be so placed that their refracting
planes are at right angles to the lines of
vision ; for if they are oblique thereto, sphe-
ricals have the effect of sphero-cylindricals
and artificial astigmatism is produced ; while
lenses possessing a cylindrical element have
the latter altered by the obliquity of position.

YT Ee

Conditions thus produced by mal-position of
the lenses are rectified only by undue action
of the external motor muscles in the former,
and of the ciliary in the latter case. Again,
if the lenses are too far away from the eyes,
that

lenses than those which are supposed to be

their effect is of stronger or weaker

prescribed.

So that no prism effect be
Artificial produced by the lenses, the
Astigmatism optic axis of each lens must
correspond to the visual axis
of the eye for which it is supplied ; the frame
must be neither too wide nor too narrow,
too high nor too low. Due attention is more
often given to the correct horizontal location
than to the vertical, but actually the horizon-
tal muscles are often more capable of adapt-
ing themselves to slightly-decentered lenses

than are the vertical muscles, for even if de-

Lionel Laurance

pression or elevation of the chin is resorted
to in order to neutralize the effect of lenses
which are too high or too low, artificial
astigmatism is produced by the obliquity of
the lenses to the lines of vision.

A frame required for distances only
should have such an interpupuillary distance
that the

adjusted for vision of a distant object.

lenses are centered for the eyes
The
height of bridge should fulfill the same con-
ditions, and the plane of the lenses should be
perpendicular to that of the ground. Lenses
are, however, seldom needed for viewing dis-
tant objects only, for instance, as for theaters,
etc.; distance glasses are generally those re-
quired for constant wear as distinct from close
work.

The eyes are constantly being rotated in
various directions, so that if there is coinci-
dence of the visual axes, in their primary
position, with the optic axes of the lenses,
there is some decentration of the lenses for
every secondary position of the visual axes.
Such decentering is, however, not usually of
material importance, for both lenses act with
prismatic effect, up or down, as the two eyes
rotate in the vertical plane, and with the

KEY SS TO WN &

effect of a prism base in for the one and-base
out for the other lens as they rotate to the
right or leit, so that little, if any, inconve-
nience is felt from such decentering, unless
the difference between the lenses is consid-
erable. Only when convergence is brought
into action, 1s the decentering, due to the
fact that mounted lenses have a fixed inter-
pupillary distance, likely to cause any incon-
venience.

Glasses, therefore, for con-

stant wear, should be cen-

The Action
of the Eyes

tered, not for the primary
position of the visual axes,
but for the position of general employment
of the eyes, so that decentration may be,
generally, as small as possible when the
vlasses are in use. The average business or
professional man is more often occupied in
viewing near objects and those situated be-
low the level of the eyes than objects which
are at the same level or above. The eyes are
turned downwards when walking or driving,
reading or writing, and when engaged in
practically all near work in which the hands
are engaged, so that the eyes are generally
in a state of convergence, and lowered when
the ordinary individual is engaged in his

daily occupations. Also with a frame whose

height of bridge is adapted for ‘‘ distance ”’
on looking downwards, without depressing
the head, the lower part of the eye-wire is
liable to interfere with vision.

Therefore, a frame required for con-
stant use should be, as to height, adapted
that for
near work

for a_ position which is between

‘‘distance’” only and that tor

only, or about 2 mm. less than for the

former. And in order that the plane of the
lenses may be at right angles to the visual
axes, they may, with advantage, be slightly
tilted so that the upper edge is the more
advanced. The interpupillary distance for
constant wear, however, as a rule, should be
as for distance.

A frame for close work only, supplied
for hypermetropia or astigmatism, should be
studied as if for constant wear, for the non-
use of the lenses for distance is merely a
For frame

concession. presbyopia the

should be adapted for the position of the
eyes when adjusted for reading, so that the
distance between the centers is shorter and
the bridge higher than for ‘‘ constant’’ use.

Frequently the distance of the center
of each eye is at a different distance from its
corresponding side of the nose. Should the
difference be small, and especially for presby-
opic glasses, it can be ignored, but for con-
stant use it may need to be considered.
Saddle or W bridges and some forms of eye-
glasses can be easily adjusted by increasing
the angle of the spur on the one side or
the other.

(Continued on page 1775)

“SI

ww
\\

AY
NY
\

Y \\WY
yy
\\(w”

A, e

Have
Stood the

Test of &
Time and J S
Criticism

Gone to success on the wave of good opinions
of Physicians, Opticians and the People

Murine rapidly reduces an Inflamed Eye to its normal condition pre-
paratory to its proper measurement for Glasses.

Murine Clears the Transparent Media and obviates the use of a danger-
ous Mydriatic.

Banene Stimulates the Blood Supply which nourishes the Hye, removes
Floating Spots, strengthens vision, and with Murine greatly aids those
wearing Glasses, hence their value to the Optical Profession.

HE maximum per cent of those ordering Glasses seek your

aid only after continued urgings from over-worked and

defective Eyes—urgings that have left inflamed tissue and

local irritation. Correct Eye Defects with Properly- fitted
Glasses. Correct Effects of Defects with Jurine.

Properly- fitted Glasses and Murine Promote Eye Comfort

Banene

This preparation should be in the hands
of every Refractionist

TIMULATES the circulation of
the blood supply that nourishes

the Eye, clears the retina of congestion, removes the causes of
floating spots, dimness of vision, cobwebs, and an ¢nability to
wear glasses with comfort.

Banene absorbs opacities of the Crystaline Lens—Cataract
and in many cases renders an operation unnecessary

Murine Eye Salve

(Unguentum Hydro - Murine )
A REMEDY FOR THE EHYELIDS

Restores lost Eyelashes and promotes a healthful

growth. Cures Cysts, Styes and Ulcers

HE Eyelashes often fall out in consequence

of neglected disease, both at their roots,
and of the Lubricating Glands which open
near them, resulting in a thickened and crusted
condition. This condition is intensified by
an WNrror of Refraction, and properly- fitted
Glasses should be worn in addition to ap-
plications of Murine and Murine Eye Salve.

NOTE—The law does not confine the sale of these preparations to any class. Jewelers and
Opticians have a right to sell them, but not the right to compound or administer.

The Murine Eye Preparations are sold by all jobbers.

Zz
DROPS .
Trade Price List Ian res Sut sb

RANULATION ETC.

[ERE RELIABLE hin eer
EYE REMEDIES [j('567 9

These Prices are regular and are

subject to Cash Discount only ie ae ee zeit tiie xia
No. A—MvuRINE— Regular size....... $ .560 $ 4.00 §$
No. B— MuURINE— Special or Opti-

cians’ size Oe oe ee oe 1.25 %<20 .60
No. C—MURINE—1-pound bottle for

Physicians’ dispensing ........... $.00 72.00 6.00
No. D—MvrINE—%-pound bottle for

Physicians’ dispensing ........... 5.00 48.00 4.00
No. E—MUuvRINE EYE SALVE—

(Unguentum Hydro-Murine) ...... 1.00 7.20 -60
No. O—OXIDO-FLARINE— (Salve) ..... 1.00 7.20 60
NO: —GRANTDUING is 60s decisis 0% ‘atte’ 1.50 10.80 .90
IN OMA EE VERON lox sown acann 6 aoa Wh slow race 1.10 8.40 -70
No.H—SvuLpPpHo-FERRINE—A systemic

TONIC IN GVG CHSBER dinwiceieis dene coiace 1.00 7.20 -60
No. K—BANENE...... RN ee a 1.25 9.00 Py £9;
No, L—OuIn’s REDCLOVERCOMPOUND 1.50 10.80 .90
No, M—HypDRARGYRINE— (Powder)... 1.15 8.40 70
No. Z—MURINE—Trial size. Per gross.............. $28.80

This size has no price printed on label or package.

Send for 48-page book which gives full deseription and
directions for the entire MURINE OpricAL Alp FAMILY.”’

We supply, when desired, Show-Case holding two dozen Murine, Cellu-
loid Easels, beautiful Lithographs, Circulars, also attractive Window
Displays, and Books on home treatment for Eyes, with your card on cover,

Granuline

OR old and chronic cases which have re-

sisted the ordinary methods of treatment
and where most positive action is desired; Gran-
ulated Lids, Spots, Scums, and Opacities on
the eyes. Granuline is Absorbent, Tonic,
Antiseptic, Astringent and Antiphlogistic. It is
a valuable collateral to Jlwrine in Eye cases.

ip io \ fto" 4
[PB ps IKVAL Ir Oe
tila 42

AUVIL Lig lL

Crowned—

not with Jewels but with
Plaudits of the People—
Laurels justly earned as
the ‘‘ Best Kye Treat-
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Murine Eye Remedies
have cured thousands
and will cure you,

The Murine Eye Remedy Co., Chicago,

will gladly supply attractive Office Pictures, Booklets and Circulars when desired

““THERE IS ALWAYS ONE BY WHICH THE REST ARE MEASURED”

— i
Sc

October, 1905

New Apparatus to Detect Malingering

A new apparatus to detect malingering
was recently presented by M. Bouchart, at
the meeting of the Paris Ophthalmological
Society. The that
have various means to employ with subjects

inventor remarks we
who claim to have one good eye and one
poor eye. But as regards those who declare
that both eyes are amblyopic, it is more
difficult to verify the truth or falsity of their
statements. The
box, 50 % 200% 7
hole comprises a short tube, closed by a

apparatus consists of a
centimeters. The sight-
plane glass to keep out dust, and has grooves
for the correcting lenses. It contains four

mirrors, three of which are movable and
controlled by keys on the outside, as in our
illustration. Duplicate types of four gradu-
ated lines are placed at Oand O’, illuminated
by openings in the box.

The four tests provided for are, accord-
ing to Dr. C. H. Beard, best made as fol-
lows: The three movable mirrors are placed

in their working positions. The subject is

asked to call the letters he sees through the
sight-hole. By a subtle movement of its key
mirror 7 is turned down, leaving 2 to catch
the image. The subject again reads. Mirror 2
is then brought into its position of repose,
leaving 3 working. The third test is made.
For the fourth test the
third mirror is very slight—only about 15°—

movement of the

just enough to throw it out of the line of
types O and in line with the reflection of O’
in the fixed mirror. Between each test the

box, which is held in the examiner’s hands,

O O'", test types; M, fixed mirror; 1, 7, 3, movable mirrors ;

is removed from the examined eye, under
some pretext, in order to manipulate the
time also the results obtained
the

images are viewed are 40, 60, 100 and 150

key. Each

are noted. The distances at which

centimeters. The gamut of visual acuities
comprises many degrees between 7's; and 1,
as shown by the following :

Ist line, 2d line. 8d line. 4th line.
a pees y 4 2 1 ]
Test I. V. i5 i5 i 0 15
Test [I, nies - is t i5 ‘oO
Test ILL. We 2 ; $ ;
Test [IVN/.. ==: 1 I 3 t

The subject is placed in a predicament.
Being unable to judge as to the responses

that would be favorable to his case he must

Tt ld E

L, sight-hole

either be sincere or reply at random. If his
replies are false their non-concordance reveals
it. The principle of the mechanism is by a
box of such small dimensions to give to the
object viewed an apparent distance much
inferior to the real. The subject 1s thus led
to approach the truth more closely than in
processes of examination where he can appre-
ciate the actual position of the test objects.
Terson, for such tests, in preference to
a complex apparatus, cuts out the letters of
an ordinary test chart and glues them, all
mixed up, but in lines, upon a piece of card-
board.
chart, and the results carefully noted.

The subject is asked to read this
Some
simulators will read the smallest letters as
well as the largest when thus in lines. Lastly,
he is made to read the same letters as they
appear on the original chart. Adler, in
1896, devised a similar scheme, but caused
the normal chart to be read first. Terson,
however, deems it better to entrap the simu-
lator at the very outset—especially one who

is seeking a personal injury indemnity.

Mounting Photographs

It is the little things—the attention
to minute details which tend to com-
fortable working and success in photo-

graphic matters, and when we discover an

easy means of accomplishing an awkward

little bit of manipulation, it 1s well to remem-

ber the dictum of the famous Captain Cuttle,
‘“When found make a note on.”’

The particular note which appears last

on the tablet of our memory refers

to a dodge for mounting photo-

graphs so that they shall appear on
a definite place upon the mount, and
also be perpendicular with its edges.
Once upon a time we should have
. com . bed )
written, ‘‘ The middle of the mount,
for then it was the fashion to follow
the example of the engraver, and

of the space upon which it rested,
or, In some cases, perhaps a trifle above
the center. But ‘‘ other times, other man-
ners’’—1in the present day, as far as one
can judge by examples which have been
thought good enough to hang up for pub-
lic exhibition, there seems a tendency to
clorify the mount at the expense of the
picture, and instances are not wanting in
which a quarter-plate eccentricity is mounted
in the corner of a vast expanse of dark card-
board. One is tempted to exclaim with the
poet, ‘‘ Oh, monstrous! But one half-penny-
worth of bread to this intolerable deal of
sack.’’ Only one can understand the temp-
tation of a bibulous person to spend more of
his substance on good wine than he does
on the staff of life, while it is difficult to
imagine the condition of mind which exhibits
a broad area of cardboard as a work of art.
But as these things do happen, we may

to place the picture in the center

K EY S TON EB L778

suppose that there is some reason for them,
and our only regret is that in many cases the
cardboard, being the most interesting por-
tion of the exhibit, should be burdened with
any photograph at all. :

Of course, it is a dark mount which
we have in view, for no one nowadays
uses alight one. It must be dark brown,
or dark green, or dark neutral tint, with-
out any distinctive color. It would be easy
enough to get our picture in the center
of it if we could mark it with pencil or chalk,
but such marks are prone to permanence,
and one hesitates to venture upon them.
The temporary guide which we suggest is
made with removable pieces of sewing cotton,
and the procedure is the simplest thing in
the world. Let us cite a case, as the
lawyers say.

We have a 10 by 8 print, or enlarge-
ment, and we have elected to mount it on a
dark brown card which measures 18 by 14
inches, and further, we have decided that it
shall occupy the center of the card. We
take two pieces of sewing cotton and tie one

piece across the mount lengthwise and the
other piece crosswise, and when this is done
we must, by the help of a foot rule, make
them occupy definite positions on the mount.
Take the longer one first. As our print is
8 inches broad, and the mount is 14 inches,
there is clearly 6 inches to spare, which will
allow a margin of 3 inches on each side.
Our cotton thread must, therefore, be placed
at 3 inches from the edge of the mount, in
order to indicate the place where one edge
of the picture should rest. We can now
adjust the other thread, which is tied across
the smaller diameter of the card. Here the
difference between the size of the print and
the mount is 8 inches, and we must, there-
fore, fix our cotton at 4 inches from the edge
of the mount. Take care that both threads
are strictly parallel with the nearest edge of
the card. You can then cover the back of
your print with adhesive and drop it in its
place on the mount without the smallest
difficulty. Cut away the cottons directly
this is done and smooth the print down the
usual way. It will be seen that any eccen-
tricity in the way of mounting can be carried
out by this method, and so we commend it
to all workers—sane or otherwise. In the
annexed diagram the dotted lines indicate
the guiding threads. —Photographic News.

JOHN L. MOORE .° SONS

OPTICIANS | ;

When a man, or a manufacturer does anything better than
any one else can do it, the buying public are quick to find it out,
and that man or manutacturer must keep on doing it better or
the buying public will tind that out, too.

42 N. Broad St.

This Prescription Department has a standard of its own. One it set for
itself higher than any other in the South. — Its list of customers 1s ever grow-
ing. It has lived up to its standard. If it hadnt the list would decrease
and disprove it. Why not trust your prescriptions to a department with a
reputation to uphold.

Translucent Signs—silent business getters
You apply them to window or door glass.
Neat and inexpensive and effective.

Write for
Catalogue

The human eye, opera glasses, etc., in colors.

25c., 50c. and 75c.

ISI ~—\ Do Not Forget that
Invisible on the Face BOSTON | o Not Forge

OPTICA Our service 1s prompt
a COMPANY (ur goods the best
A T ¢ (] se. (Jur store up to-date
re Triangle Guards ||)
Dealers OPERA GLASSES
i, We are now carrying a complete line
vue of Opera ( slasses, Field Glasses, ete.
Grinders || SEE OUR LINE
2 Boston Optical Co.
Experts | 373 Washington St. 14-16 Bromfield St.
meee BOSTON

1O K. Gold Triangle Guards, = $7.50 per dozen
10 K. Gold Filled Triangle Guards, 2.00 ‘ ee
German Silver Triangle Guards, 1.00 * 6

Rochester School or Optometry

A Thorough and Practical Optical School

Less 6 per cent.

Sample pairs, postpaid, Gold c.: Gold Filled, 30€.3
P P * C P a chee te 3 : 40 Hours a Week Devoted to Lectures, Quizzes and Practical Work
rerman Silver, I§C.
You LEARN HERE the Theory and How to Condut t the Prac tice
YOU GET EXPERIENCE in the examination room and workshop
WHEN YOU HAVE COMPLETED COURSE you are capable

of making a success in the practice

If interested, write for terms and outline of

Geo. Mayer & Co.

Manufacturing Opticians

134 S, Eighth Street, PHILADELPHIA, PA.

A. H. BOWEN, M.D. Course B. B. CLARK

resident secty.

Triangle Building, ROCHESTER, Se

October, 1905

e e 2 °
Frame Fitting and Adjustment
(Continued from page 1771)

The distance between the lenses and the
eyes depends on the projection of the bridge.
The effective power ol the lenses in relation
to the eyes is changed as“this distance 1s
ereater or smaller.

The size of the ideal retinal
image is that which obtains

The Ideal
Retinal Image in emmetropia, and this
result is corrected ametropia
also, when the lens is in the anterior focal
plane of the eye or, say, 13 millimeters from
the cornea. For this, lenses should, usually,
be as near to the eyes as the lashes and brows
permit, but they must not touch the lashes,
which is annoying and causes the glasses to
ey and Also the

prismatic effec produced when the eyes are

become smud obscured.
rotated from the primary position depends on,
and is smaller as, the distance between the
lenses and the eye is less.

It is essential, in theory at least, that the
two lenses should be in the same plane, so
that the one be not farther from the one eye
the
possible, as it frequently occurs that the one

than from other. This is not always
eye is more deeply set in its socket than the
other. If a spectacle frame, owing to the

sides not being true, or the bridge too
shallow ; or an eyeglass, owing to the plac-
quets being out of place or unsuitable, causes
the two lenses to become oblique to the
visual axes a horizontal cylindrical effect -is
produced on sphericals, or the effective
power of cylindricals is changed, and if the
one lens is higher than the other owing to
rotation of the frame, a vertical prismatic
effect is engendered, and, in the case of
cylindricals, the axes are not in the required
meridians ; therefore, care must be taken
that the frame is so adapted that the long
diameter of the lenses is at right angles to
the plane of the nose.

A bridge, if too thin, is
The Bridges liable to indent the skin of
the nose, especially if the
lenses are heavy. The angle of the flat of
the bridge-wire should be neither too hori-
zontal nor too vertical, but rest on the nose
the whole of its depth; the usual angle is
about 45 degrees to the plane of the lenses.
The bridge should be of such a width that, if
the frame be worn constantly, its weight is
partly supported at the sides, and not wholly

The C bridge is

better for the presbyope, and may be fairly

on the crest of the nose.

thin and wide enough to move freely up and

down the nose. The constant-wear bridge

‘ ’)
)

should be ‘‘spread,’’ and fit so snugly that it
will not pass below the thick part of the nose.
The frame should be just sufficiently

wide for the sides to be free from contact

yy TisE&

with the sides of the tront of the head, but,
the
Straight sides must be long enough to main-

if too wide, frame~ is unbecoming.
tain a fair hold behind the ears, and curled
sides must be just long enough to obtain
security without pressure on the nose. They
should be fitted to the curve of the ears, and,
if necessary, any difference in the height of
the two ears must be allowed for.

In an eyeglass the top spring must be
neither too long nor too short, or the lenses
will not set horizontally, and the grip 1s
either too weak or too strong. If the grip is
too weak the eyeglass is insecure ; if too
strong it produces soreness at the sides of
the nose and may be the cause of headaches.
Placquets must correspond in curve to the
sides of the nose, as it is by full contact,
rather than pressure, that security of hold is
obtained. The length of placquets and their
inclination both in the plane of the nose and
in that of the face, are matters of importance.
Where the two sides of the nose differ, fixed
placquets are preferable to those which rock.
A fair degree of tension at the top of the
placquets and the tops resting behind the
brows are necessary to prevent an eye-glass
from tilting forward or sliding off upwards.

The size of the lenses is a matter of
importance, both for the. effect on appearance

The

requisite size depends chiefly on the inter-

j
-

and because of their optical properties.

pupillary distances, also on the width of the
head and that of the nose. All people can-
not be suited with the same sized lenses, and
although the 1 ‘‘eye’’ 1s a fair average size,
it is too large for some and too small for
Others, and both the 2 and o ‘‘eye”’ are
necessary for the stock of the optician who
wishes to be all up to date in frame-fitting.

A frame should be becoming
The Frames to the wearer as well as be
comfortable and fairly se-
cure. For appearance sake an eyeglass is
always preferable to a spectacle, and for con-
venience it is often so, it being more easily
portable and more easily put on and off, and
it does not cause an appearance of increased
With

placquets, there is hardly a nose that cannot

age. a knowledge of how to fit
be comfortably suited with some form of
pince-nez. Consideration of the cosmetic
effect of frames has great influence on the
success of the optician’s business, and many
people will wear pince-nez who refuse to wear
spectacles,

It is better to select a frame from stock
If this is
possible, a frame or frames, as near as possi-

for the individual ctstomer. not
ble to what is needed, should be found, and
the measurements taken from it or them;
any necessary allowances being made for
those details which are not exact, the required
frame can be ordered.

K EY S&S TON CE 1775

In the opinion of the writer the best,
and indeed the only practical rule, for taking
measurements for frames from the face itself,
is the ‘‘ Orthos,’’

are necessary.

when such measurements

In the following description

Taking of how to take measure-

Measurements ments of the face and head,

it should be remembered
that right and left of the rade are respectively
to the right and left of the optician, while
right and left of the customer’s face are re-
spectively to the optician’s opposite hand.
The interpupillary distance for ‘‘ dis-
tance’’ and ‘‘ constant wear’’ is obtained by
directing the customer to look straight into
the optician’s left eye, the rule being held
horizontally with the projection directed
downwards and with the right edge of the

Then

look into the

projection bisecting the right pupil.
the
optician’s right eye,

directed to
the
The interpupillary distance is then

customer 1s

rule not being
moved,
indicated by the number, on the lower scale,
just above the center of the left pupil. The
full the

pupils, when the eyes are at rest, is thus

distance between the centers of
found, the average being about 60 milli-
meters.

When the

from the center of the nose is unequal, this

the distance of two eyes
is measured for each separately to the center
of the nose, that of the right when looking
at the optician’s left eye, and wice versa.
The reading for the right eye is made to the
right of the projection, when its right edge
bisects the right pupil; that for the left eye
is made to the left when the right edge of
the projection bisects the left pupil, both
The

interpupillary distance for presbyopia is found

readings being on the lower scale.

similarly when the customer is looking at the
center of the optician’s face. This is usually
about 4 millimeters less than for ‘‘ distance.”’
The height of the bridge is
The Height obtained when the customer
of the Bridge is looking straight forward.
The rule is held horizontally,
with the lower edge placed on the bridge of
the nose. The height is taken on the pro-
jection on a level with the center of the
pupil, if for distance only ; at the bottom of
the pupil if for constant wear, at the bottom
of the iris if for presbyopia. The height for
presbyopia is some 4 millimeters greater than
for constant wear.

When the two eyes are of unequal height
the distance is taken for each separately and
extent of

the one lens decentered to the

difference. If the bridge should be below
the centers of the eyes, the rule is held hort-
zontally with the lower edge bisecting the
pupils, and with the projection directed down-
wards at the right side of the nose; the

(Continued on page 1777)

1776

DO YOU KNOW

that the Ophthalmometer gives more valuable information to the
refractionist than any other optical instrument? It shows the meri-
dians of greatest and least curvature on the cornea and the amount
of the cylindrical error.

WHY TRY TO DO WITHOUT IT? ORDER NOW

mail me pamphlet
descriptive of the
C. I. Ophthalmometer,
together with price, etc.

For Sale by all Jobbers
~D DO NOT DELAY. DO IT NOW

Name, ae

Address, _

October, 1905

Frame Fitting and Adjustment

(Continued from page 1775)

distance is then read on the vertical scale at
a point on a level with the bridge of the nose.

For the projection of the bridge the
optician stands to the left of the customer’s
head; the rule being horizontal, with its
lower edge resting against the bridge of the
nose, the projection pointing inwards at the
left temple. The reading is taken on the
vertical scale at a point level with the tips of
the lashes. The lashes of the one eye usually
project more than the other, so that this
measurement must be taken on both sides,
and the frame made for the greater projec-
tion. The lenses should be as near the eyes
as possible. For presbyopic glasses, the
projection of the bridge is of little impor-
tance.

When, owing to the nose being flat, the
bridge has to bé set back of the plane of
the lenses, the projection is placed on the
bridge of the nose, and the reading on the
vertical scale is taken at a point level with
the tips of the lashes.

For depth of the bridge the
The Facial Width rule is placed with the pro-

jection at the side of the
nose, and the necessary length of spur is
taken on the vertical scale, at a point level
with the bridge of the nose. The facial
width is obtained by placing the rule with
the projection pointing backwards near the
left temple. The dimension is taken on the
lower scale near the right temple, or the dis-
tance to the middle of the nose may be taken
and this doubled. The facial width is usually
about 45 millimeters greater than the full
interpupillary distance.

The width of nose for a spectacle bridge,
or for the distance between the placquets of
an eyeglass, is found by placing the rule
horizontally with the edge of the projection
pointing downwards at the right side of the
nose. The distance on the lower scale is
read to the middle of the nose, and being
doubled gives the width. Or the required
bridge can be obtained from the standard
spreads of the rule. For distance and con-
stant use the spreads should be selected which
so fits the thin part of the nose that it will
not pass over the wider part, while for
presbyopia, that should be selected which will
just freely slide over the wider part of the
nose.

The length of a curl slide is found by
placing the projection at the back of the ear,
and the reading on the lower scale is taken
at a point level with the tips of the lashes.
the usual length is about 100 millimeters and
the total length of the side is about 50 milli-
meters greater,

T Ee

The length of a straight side is obtained
by placing the right edge of the projection at
the side of the head where the tip of the
side should rest, and the reading 1s taken on
the lower scale at a point level with the tips
of the lashes. The average length is about
130 millimeters or about 30 millimeters
greater than that from the tips of the lashes
to the back of the ear.

What is the Most Expressive Title
for a Refracting Optician ?

A large number of American refracting
opticians are now using the word ‘‘Optome-
trist’’ to designate their calling. In Eng-
land many of the refractionists use the word
‘“Optologist’’ for the same purpose. Some
philologists contend that neither word ex-
presses fully the work of the eye-examining,
prescribing and spectacle-furnishing optician.
A professor of Cambridge University, Eng-
land, who is an accomplished philologist, has
furnished the following interesting contribu-
tion to the literature on the subject :

I would recommend as the most
The appropriate titles for a sight-
Greek Derivatives testing optician (1) OPSIOLOGIST

or (2) OPHTHALMICIAN. OpPsI-
OLOGIST [ots (opszs), “‘sight,’’ and Adyos (logos),
‘“science’’?] should mean ‘‘one skilled in the
science of the eyesight,’ or ‘‘an eyesight specialist,”’
1. €., ‘‘a sight-testing optician’? ; cp. physiologist
[piots (physts), ‘‘nature,’? and Adyos (logos),
“Science 7 The word opsiologist is (1) philo-
logically sound, (2) new, (3) euphonious, (4) com-
prehensive, (5) not too long.

OPHTHALMICIAN [od@adpukés, ‘Sof or pertain-
ing to the eye’’] should mean ‘‘one versed in
matters pertaining to the eye,’’ and, like opsiolo-
gist, is (1) philologically sound, (2) new, (3)
euphonious, (4) comprehensive (5) not too long.
sut it should be noted that optician from meaning
‘one versed in optics’’ (Sir Isaac Newton was
called ‘‘ the Great Optician’’ in a work dated 1687)
has come to mean ‘‘a maker of or dealer in optical
instruments.’’ On the analogy of optician, the
word ophthalmician would possibly suggest in
many minds merely ‘ta maker of or dealer in
medicines or instruments for the eye,”’ and a sight-
testing optician is a great deal more than that.
Those who feel any doubt about the connotation of
ophthalmician would be quite safe in adopting
opsiologist.

OpToLoaist should mean, since
The British Title it is derived from omrés (of/os),

‘“seen,’? and Aséyos (/ogos),
‘science,’ ‘one skilled in the science of things
seen.’’ Some would-be humorist, who says he
knows ‘‘a little’? Greek and Latin, forgetting the
proverbial danger of a little knowledge, has rushed
into the columns of a contemporary with the
dogmatic assertion that optologist can only mean
‘‘a wise cook.’’ There is a Greek word Omrés
(optos), ‘‘roasted,”’ ‘‘broiled,’’ ‘‘baked”’ ; and by
the analogy of other compounds with -logist a
word might be coined, viz., opto-logist, with the
meaning, ‘one skilled in the knowledge of things
roasted, broiled, or baked,’’ z. e., ‘San epicure,”’
rather than ‘‘a cook.’’ But there is no derivative
meaning ‘“‘a cook” formed in Greek from omrds

K EY SS T ON ECE 1777

(optos), ‘‘roasted,’? the Greek word for a cook
being oporotds (opsopocos); nor is there any deriva-
tive in English from omtés (oftos), ‘‘roasted”’ ;
hence all analogies would lead us to connect
optologist with ‘‘things seen,’’ or ‘‘ the vision.’’
The word should be rejected as being (1) ambigu-
ous, (2) philologically objectionable, if taken to
mean ‘‘one skilled in the eyesight.”’

My attention has also been drawn
to the word OPHTHALMIATER
[oBadrpds (ophthalmos), ‘‘eye,”’
and larip (zater), ‘‘healer’’]. It
is not quoted in the Standary Dictionary, while the
great Oxford English Dictionary gives it as ‘‘ rare,”’
and as meaning ‘‘an ophthalmic surgeon, ocu-
list,’’ the latest quotation given being 1852, /erden
Autobiog., II, 71. ‘‘A glorious quack oculist, or
‘ophthalmiater,’ as he styled himself.’? The word
has some associations of quackery that do not
commend it as suitable for the genuine eyesight
specialists, and these gentlemen do not usually
profess to heal the eyes.

I would add to my note on Optist that the
word is not only philologically objectionable, but
it has recently been used of one who makes and
inserts artificial eyes, in contradistinction to the
optician whose business is with the natural eyes;
and optist originally meant ‘‘an optician.’’ An
optist is described in ‘‘Horn and Robotham,”’
Gate Lang. Unl. \xxvi, § 769 (dated 1639), as one
who ‘‘frameth spectacles and perspective glasses ”’
(v. Oxford Eng. Dict.).

The terms OPpSIOMETRIST, OPTOMETRIST and
OPHTHALMOMETRIST, as referring merely to the
measuring of the vision, do not seem to be com-
prehensive enough for the modern sight-testing
optician, ~

Terms not in
Popular Favor

> ¢¢

Instantaneous X-Ray Photographs

The long exposures required in X-ray
photography have been a great disadvan-
tage in its use for practical purposes. After
many experiments, however, Prof. Rieder
and Dr. Joseph Rosenthal, of Munich, have
succeeded in taking instantaneous X-ray
photographs. The apparatus used includes
strong electric currents, especially good
X-ray tubes, very sensitive photographic
films and intensifying screens. Photographs
of the human chest were taken in less than a
second, the patient ceasing to breathe in the
meantime.

Taking photographs between heart beats
was another important experiment tried.
The period of exposure required was meas-
ured by a contrivance consisting of a wooden
disk, thirty-nine inches in diameter, and
covered with lead. A sector, one-seventh
of the entire surface, was cut from the
disk. The object to be photograped and
the sensitive plate were placed behind the
disk and the X-ray apparatus in front of it.
The disk was revolved on its center once in
a second, and the open place in it exposed
the plate to the rays just one-seventh of
that period.

“Tam most interested in Clinics tn Optometry,
Lessons in Horology and Workshop Notes.’’—B. F.
Spencer, Jeweler and Optician, Remington, Ind,

1778 :

<QNNUILLLIETTTOUTTTELSOOTUUGASEC EET LLAESOOEEOOEEEA TU OEOEE OEE EAAET AGATE

N planning your business for the coming year you will give a large
measure of consideration to your Gold Filled Lines of Optical
Goods and the opportunities they present to you for a profitable

and satisfactory business. We assume that you desire to increase its
volume and that you also wish to add to the foundation or structure of
your reputation.

In this connection we beg to summarize and offer for reflection
some advantages of the §—@ Lines, and we believe that we are
safely within the province of fact in stating that these advantages can-
not be offered you by another manufacturer.

The Standard of Quality and Improvement

What new inventions or improvements in Gold Filled Optical
Goods have been made in the past ten years which did not have their
inception with us?

What source of supply other than ourselves can your salesmen
point to as manufacturing no cheap lines of Gold Filled Goods?

What other optical lines have established prices known from
(oast to Coast?

The answers to these questions are some of the advantages we
offer you and are visible evidences of our desire to perpetuate and
make profitable the interests of our customers. You may be very
sure that the management which has made possible these improvements
and conditions will have in the future other and more desirable things
to offer.

STEVENS & COMPANY

Manufacturers

Providence, R. I.

MNNAAULUUUAUONUNUUUEUUUTUOONUNUUUOOVOROUOOEEUOOOOEENOUOOOOOOUUOOOOOOGOQOROOOOOOOEOOOGQOOOOOOOOEOOOOOOOEOOOOOEOOOOOOEOOGOOQOEOOOOOEEOGGOOEOOOOOOOEEOOOUEOOOOOOOEOOOOGOOUEOOOOEOOOOOOOEEOOOOOOOEOOOOEEEUOOGOOOEEELTELANNS

ANVIANUTUANOUVOGQQUONGQQQUOONO0000000000000000000000Q00 0000000008000 00000U0OUOOEOOGOUNEOOOOOOOOQOUOOOSOOUVOGOOUOOOOOOUOOOOOGQODOOOGOOOOOGQOUOOOEOOOUOONGQGUUOOEOUOOGOOUONOGGEQOUOOOGOODOGGOOOOGGOOUOOOOOGGOOOEEUOOELOOOOEEOOGOOEEEOTOELEOTEEEUTTIEY

ayy HM UAUUUTEUTUTUTETEOEEUEO OOOO

/
ff

October, 1905

Optical Notes

we S. R. Peck, manager of the Pacific Optical
Co., Seattle, Wash., has lately been in the East for
one month, having visited Southbridge, Mass.,
Providence, R. I.; Philadelphia, Pa, and New
York City.

w H. W. Liggette, optician, with J. N. Mul-
ford, 294 Main Street, Memphis, Tenn., has re-
cently been on a tour in the Eastern States. While
in Philadelphia, Pa., he visited the factory of The
Keystone Watch Case Co.

w E. Kirstein Sons Co., Rochester, N. Y.,
have issed their 1905 catalogues and _ price-lists,
consisting of a prescription catalogue, a Shur-on
catalogue and price-list and a price-list of spectacle
and eyeglass cases. These compilations are all
handsomely printed and illustrated, and should
prove very useful for immediate reference, The
case price-list comes ap-
propriately in the form
and appearance ot one
of the articles with which
it deals.

vw Robert V. Lee,
late of 2054 Clark Avenue,
Cleveland, Ohio, and his
associate, ©. H. Perry,
expect to engage in the
optical business at Co-
shocton, Ohio, in the near
future. Itis their purpose
to equip their parlors in
the most modern fashion.

& Glines & Griffin
is the name of an optical
firm which has opened
with ample facilities at
to Main Street, New Lon-
don, Conn. This firm
carries a line of kodaks
and supplies, and also
makes a feature of de-
veloping and printing for
amateurs, to which end it has installed a dark
room for photographic processes. It has like-
wise put in machinery for automatic edge-grinding
and compound work.

w Silbert Bros., wholesale and manufacturing
opticians, of Buffalo, N. Y., have consolidated
their offices at 482 Washington Street, where they
possess improved facilities for the conduct of their
growing trade. Hitherto they have had an office
at 520 Main Street, and another at 482 Washington

Street.

w& One of the exhibits that attracted much
attention at the Minneapolis convention of the
American Association of Opticians was that of the
Eye-Fix Remedy Co., Detroit, Mich., which was
represented at the convention by Dr. F. T. Leys,
salesman, and F, J. Grewe, manager of the com-
pany. An illustration of the exhibit is shown
herewith.

“ George A. Barron, 3 Winter Street, Boston,
Mass., has invented a new axis chart that is of
great convenience to opticians in making their
lenses, and also in frame fitting, as the chart not
only gives the axis of the lens, but the height of
the bridge and other measurements needed 1n fitting
up lenses and frames. Mr. Barron is distributing
these cards without charge to his patrons in the
trade, and also selling them to the wholesale trade
for distribution among their customers.

TH EB

wv Wm.A Copeland, of Martin, Copeland &
Co., Providence, R. L, optical manufacturers, left
receniy on a trip to England and the Continent.
Mr. Copeland may look over trade conditions a
little, but the trip is mainly one for recreation and
pleasure.

ow Mr. Mansfield, for seven years connected
with the Globe Optical Company, of Boston, has
started in the optical business at 272 Boylston
Street, under the firm-name of Harbach & Mans-
field, successors to Herron & Harbach, formerly
on Dartmouth Street, Boston.

w W. Arlo Moore, optician, has severed his
connection with C. M. Banks, the Wilmington,
Del., teweler, and has accepted a position with
E. H. Schaefer, of Beaver Falls, Pa. Mr. Moore
had been connected with the jewelry and optical
business in Wilmington for a number of years.
His friends wish him success in his new sphere.

Exhibit of the Eye-Fix Remedy Co., Detroit, Mich., at the Minneapolis Convention

Jw 2B. Mayer, 6 East Baltimore Street, Balti-
more, Md., was by an oversight referred to in our
last issue as a wholesale and retail optician. Mr.
Mayer is not a retail optician, his business being
solely wholesale, importing and manufacturing.
He is the inventor and sole maker of a one-piece
invisible bifocal, patented August 29, 1905. His new
catalogue has recently been issued, and is a useful
book for the trade, especially in the matter of
prescription work.

w Joseph Anspach, senior member of Ans-
pach Bros., the well-known optical firm of 595
Broad Street, Newark, N. J., was one of those
killed in the elevated railroad accident in New
York City on September rith. It had been Mr.
Anspach’s custom to go from New York to Newark
each day, as he and his family had closed their
summer home at Avon and had been temporarily
living in New York City, while the house which he
had temporarily leased at Belleville Avenue, New-
ark, was being made ready for occupancy. Mr.
Anspach was only thirty-four years old, and prior
to going into business with his brother in Newark
had been with E. B. Meyrowitz, of New York.
His death recalls the fact that the late Oscar Meyro-
witz, of that firm, came by his death some years
ago under similarly sad circumstances in the colli-
sion which occurred in the New York Central
Railroad tunnel. Mr. Ansbach was a member of
the Newark Board of Trade.

Ke Ys I ON EB

1779

v Andrew V. Brown, son of D. V. Brown,
wholesale and manufacturing optician, Philadel-
phia, Pa., who takes an active interest in local
politics, was honored at the recent City or Reform
Party Convention, by a number of votes for the
position of City Commissioner. Mr. Brown’s
affiliations are naturally with the new party which,
aided by the reform administration, is doing such
commendable work for the purification of city
politics.

& The tenth annual outing of the employees
of the Globe Optical Company was held at the
Riverside Recreation Grounds, Auburndale, Mass.,
Saturday afternoon, September 16th. They were
joined by the employees of the Boston Optical
Company, whose outing was set for the same day.
The programme of the afternoon included tennis,
bowling, billiards, pool, canoeing and a ball game
between the teams representing the store and the
factory. ‘The few little showers during the game
did not dampen the ardor
of the players, who
played a full nine-inning
game, with the final
score 13 to 8 in favor
of the store team. At
530 the company of
Globe and Boston em-
ployees and friends, num-
bering about 125, sat
down toa banquet, which
was served in the large
dining-room overlooking
the Charles River. Before
dinner was served, the
guests listened to a vocal
selection by the well-
known Commonwealth
Quartette, which was so
well appreciated that an
encore was demanded.
After the banquet the
company again scattered
to the bowling alleys,
pool room and music
room, while others took
canoes and went down river to Norumbega Park.
Those who found their way to the music room
were entertained with several selecions by the Com-
monwealth Quartette, and with solos by the quar-
tette members, two of whom are among the Globe
employees. Ata late hour the combined party took
a return train for Boston, unanimously expressing
thanks to the Globe and Boston companies and
declaring it a most delightful outing.

Write for free catalogue of the National Col-
lege of Optics, Cedar Rapids, Iowa. —Adv.

New York City Optical Society

A meeting of this society was held in Parlor
D. R., Fifth Avenue Hotel, on September 13th,
when Wm. Sesmick and W. A. Johnson were
elected to membership. A report was received
from the banquet committee outlining the arrange-
ments for the annual banquet of the society, which
is scheduled to take place in November. The
scientific feature of the meeting was a paper by
R. M. Lockwood, on ‘‘ Fitting Eyeglasses from
Sample Eyeglass Frames and Mountings.”’

“Tam most interested in optics. I hope soon
to abandon everything else except optical work and
expect to see The Keystone keep up to its present
and past high standard of excellency.’’ —L. Bur-
kett, Optician, Abbeville, Louisiana,

1780 INCORPORATED UNDER THE LAWS OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS

DRS. J.B. & GW.McFATRICH
OFFICE OF THE SECRETARY

Eye ard Ear Surgeors

— HUI
MASONIC TEMPLE (ny LOO ui MASONIC TEMPLE, CHICAGO
C {| p HTTALMOLOG - 3 om ae Rod
MG OFS / ay
EA CW x on : % CONFERS FOUR DEGREES

J.B.McFATRICH, MS., M.D., GEO. WILBUR McFATRICH, M.D
President ard Professor of the Secretary and Professor of Clinical
Principles of Ophthalmology ard and Didactic Ophthalmology ard Otology

Ofology = E.G TROWBRIDGE, MD.
HENRY S.TUCKER, AM.,M.D. Professor of Dioptrics.

Professor of Anatomy and Physiology CHALMERS PRENTICE,M D.

ainsliye sou Erol Latent Brain Strain

Lt- Governor of Illinois
Professor of Optical Jurisprudence,

A PRACTICAL SCHOOL OF OPTICS
CONDUCTED BY EIGHT ABLE
AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTORS

LEADING OPTICAL COLLEGE.
IN THE WORLD.

Correspondence
Professor of Optometry. and Attendance Courses
JAMES J. LEWIS, Oph.D.

Write for particulars
Professor of Refraction

Did you ever wonder why so

many wearers of riding bow NOT A Cc KN’T

temples complain that they
cut their ears? OF COST TO AN OPTICIAN

If you did, just put on a pair and by using two

rubber tubes or cable bows behind those ears,
they 2#zzs¢ move when the skin on the nose moves

looking glasses, watch the temples behind your |
ears while you make a few faces, see how they Toe Test RIMLESS
move ? Well, it stands to reason that if you put

the glasses SPECTACLE AND EYEGLASS

Get a Sample Pair of
20th Century Ear Guards |

and put them on, adjust your glasses properly and notice how they allow the
temples to move while ¢#ey lie comfortably on the ear. Does it take any
argument to convince you that they make ears comfortable! Don’t you : a : Pe I oe
know people who would wear riding bows every day and eyeglasses on Sunday, a hey Fit Every Lens—Thick or Thin.
if they knew the riding bows wouldn’t cut their ears? Haven't you customers
who would gladly spend the price of a pair of ear guards for the comfort they

MOUNTINGS

A JCHILD can fit lenses to the mount-

give? Wouldn’t you rather be the one to put them on, or do you prefer letting ings In one minute.
somebody else put them on your customer while you continue to use rubber
tubing that looks like a worm behind your patient’s ear? Be modern, get the Save time and MONCY,

name of having the best things in the optical line. By all means get a window
card anda list of the wide-awake jobbers who carry 20th Century Ear Guards,
and when you get the guards keep up the standard price: Alumnico, 25 cents ;
Gold Filled, 50 cents; Gold, $1.00.

Send for list of Jobbers TO-DAY—NOW—use a postal and mention
THE KEYSTONE.

Manufactured in all metals.

A. A. Laforest MICHIGAN OPTICAL ‘Ce:

Watch f i } :
next month's Keystone, Look for er OMS a0. DETROIT, Mick.

my name in the index.

Only a few copies now remain of the first and only edition of

the well-known standard treatise

The Ocular Muscles

by Ernest E. Maddox, M.D. This may be your last chance

{Oo GEL a COpy.

This book contains 420 pages and 112 illustrations and is recognized as the
standard treatise on the muscles of the eye—their functions, anomalies, insuffi-

ciencies, tests and optical treatment.

Sent postpaid to any part of the world on receipt of price, $1.50 (6s. 3d.)

The Keystone

19th and Brown Streets, Philadelphia, Pa.

October, 1905

The Minnesota State Optical
Association

The fifth annual meeting of the Minnesota
State Optical Association was held at Builders’
Exchange Hall, St. Paul, Minn., September 5th and
6th, and proved one of the most instructive meet-
ings the association
hasever held. The
papers, being more
in the nature of
leaders for discus-
sion, brought out
some very valuable
pointers. The dis-
cussion of ‘‘ What
I Learned at the
Meeting of the
American Associa-
tion,’ brought
Messrs. Harper,
Hitchcock, Snell,
Millard, Upham
and Ostrem to their
feet, and all agreed that the clinic led by Dr.
Chalmers Prentice was worth a great deal to
the students, and by experiment each was able to
report some very peculiar results. Personal experi-
ences were presented where cures had been stum-
bled on with the use of spheres only, and there is
no doubt that proper refractive correction will
greatly aid the physician in making cures of cases
that do not seem to get along with medicine only.

S. B. Millard’s paper, ‘‘ Robbing Peter to Pay
Paul,”’ with photographic and blackboard demon-
stration, was discussed thoroughly. This was a
case of a young man, twenty-one years of age,
subject to spasms and who had lost control of his
tongue and palate, had taken treatment from physi-
cians and was finally given the rest cure for three
weeks, being kept in a dark room from which he
came out much improved but soon began to fall
back into his old ways. When he came into Mr.
Millard’s hands, after bringing his patient up to a
proper refractive correction, he was finally cured of
his spasms, and is now going to night school and
progressing very favorably.

The following officers were elected for the
ensuing year: President, J. W. Brown, Ortonville,
Minn.; first vice-president, I. M. Radabaugh, Hast-
ings, Minn., re-elected ; second vice-president, H. O.
Schlender, Springfield, Minn.; secretary, C. A.
Snell, Minneapolis, re-elected; treasurer, E. W.
Kittredge, Minneapolis. F. A. Upham, St. Paul,
was elected to the board of directors for four years,
and S. B. Millard for three.

Before election, President Chalmers made a
neat little speech, in which he thanked the associa-
tion for its indulgence in putting up with him for
two years, and hoped they would be as courteous
to his successor. Mr. Chalmers also gave the
association a few pointers in what he thought they
should do in the future. His address was well re-
ceived, and a vote of thanks given him for his able
handling of association matters.

President J. W. Brown

A telegram was received from President-elect
Brown, stating that it was impossible for him to be
in time for the meeting, but he would meet any
members desiring to see. him on Thursday morning
upon his arrival in the city.

The reports of the secretary and treasurer
respectively were received, and ordered to be
placed on record. The treasurer reported a balance
of $133.80 on hand with all bills paid.

The report of the legislative committee was
also placed on record. The membership com-

T AE

mittee reported that more new members were
admitted during the past year than for any single
year previously, except the first and second of the
society’s existence.

F. W. Seaman, St. Croix Falls, Wis., was
elected a member.

Vice-president Radabaugh on taking the chair
made an appropriate speech, in which he called
attention to the fact that the real work and success
of the association lay with the members and not
with the officers, who were only the instruments to
carry out the wishes of the members, and that each
and every member should and must put forth an
earnest effort if they would have a strong and suc-
cessful association.

A vote of thanks was tendered treasurer De
Mars for his able attention to duties during his
two years in office.

Mr. De Mars then presented a paper on the
‘‘Nerve System’ and the application of the rule
that ‘‘the eyes are the expression of the bodily
ills’? which brought forth quite a discussion.

A motion by Mr. Straub, that this association
establish a circulating library for the use of its
members, was unanimously carried. It was moved
and carried that a committee of three be appointed
to establish rules, receive donations of books,
make recommendations and report at the next
meeting. The chair appointed C. A. Snell and
S. B. Millard, Minneapolis, and Geo. T. Hartmann,
St. Paul, to constitute this committee.

A vote of thanks was extended to all trade
journals that have aided the cause of optometry by
their liberal space given to all things optical and to
the Minnesota State Optical Association especially.

Article V, section 1, of the by-laws was amen-
ded to read: The annual meeting of the associa-
tion shall be held in the month of February of each
year, subject to the call of the board of directors,
signed by the president, was carried, all agreeing
that State fair week was too busy a week during
which to hold an annual meeting.

A vote of thanks was ordered to be sent to the
Builders’ Exchange for allowing the free use of
their beautiful hall for the meetings of the associa-
tion.

C. H. Nerbovig then gave a review of the
paper read by him before the American Association.
Mr. Nerbovig stated that he did not intend to re-
read his paper, but was there to discuss and answer
questions, With the aid of a blackboard he was
kept busy for an hour and fifteen minutes answer-
ing and explaining whatever questions were brought
out in the discussion. He gave some very instruc-
tive demonstrations, and all left the hall at the con-
clusion of his talk with the idea that just such dis-
cussion is what makes an optical meeting a
success. ‘*‘ These meetings are too valuable to
miss, and I promise I will not miss any more,’’
was the way one member put it who had missed
the last three meetings.

The two important features of the meeting
were the changing of the date for the holding of
the annual reunion to February, allowing Twin
City members a better opportunity to be present,
and the resolution to establish a circulating library.
The carrying out of this latter idea is in the hands
of a capable committee, who are expected to
report progress at the next meeting of the associa-
tion.

Secretary Snell was re-elected to the office he
has held since the organization of the association.
On being called on for a speech, said his only
reason for accepting was that he was interested in
the success of the profession, and furthermore, no
one else seemed to want the salary.

KS EY S$ TF_O NN E

1781

The New President of the Minnesota Optical
Association

J. W. Brown, of Ortonville, Minn., the newly-
elected president of the Minnesota State Optical
Association, is one of the most active and pro-
gressive optometrists in the State. Mr. Brown isa
native of Minnesota, having been born in the
Southern part of the State in 1870. When but four
years of age, his parents moved to a farm near
Ortonville. In 1883, he moved into the then village
of Ortonville, and entered the store of his elder
brother, J. O. Brown, to learn the watch and
jewelry trades, and also take advantage of the
better schools there. In 1887, he graduated from
the first high-school class ever graduated in Orton-
ville, and afterwards opened a jewelry business of
his own. He soon became interested in optics, a
science for which he seemed to have a special
liking, and has taken several different courses in
his desire for higher optical knowledge. Mr.
Brown is a charter member of the American
Association of Opticians and of the Minnesota
State Association of Opticians. He is alsoa mem-
ber of the Physiological Section of the first-named
body. His able work as chairman of the member-
ship committee of the Minnesota State Associa-
tion during the past year, brought his executive
ability to the attention of its members.

Minnesota State Board of Examiners

The Minnesota State Board of Examiners in
Optometry, will meet at the old State capitol, St.
Paul, on October 25th and 26th, for examination
of applicants for license to practice optometry in
the State. A class of fifteen to twenty is expected
by Secretary Snell. Any optometrist having evi-
dence of illegal practice, is requested to apprise
the board, as every effort will be made to suppress
such operations.

Chicago Optical Society

At the regular monthly meeting of the above
society, held in quarters of the Jewelers’ Club, 218
State Street, Chicago, Earl J. Brown, M.D., made a
proposition to deliver a series of lectures covering
the Anatomy, Histology and Diseases of the Eye,
the inaugural one to be delivered during the last
week in September, and the final one during the
first week in December, just before the busy season
opens. The members present considered this a
very liberal offer, and one which every optician
in the city should take advantage of. Accordingly
the initial talk was delivered at the close of last
month, and will be followed by others. These
lectures afford a valuable educational opportunity,
of which non-members of the society, as well as
members, are eligible to avail. The circular
announcing the course has this to say: ‘‘ Particular
attention will be given to the practical side of the
subject, and quizes will be conducted each evening,
so that all may thoroughly understand the work.
An engrossed certificate of attendance will be pre-
sented to each one who attends the course.

Dr. Brown gives his service gratis, but it will
be necessary for the society to make a small charge
to cover expenses, such as hall rent and lights, etc.
The charge has been placed at the extremely low
price of five dollars for the whole course.

It makes no difference whether you are a mem-
ber of the society or not, you are earnestly solici-
ted to send in your application for a course ticket.

Kindly let the secretary know at once if you
accept the proposition.”

The address of O. J. Halbe, the secretary-
treasurer, is room 4o8a Trude Building, Chicago.

Made in

GOLD

GOLD FILLED
and ALUMNO

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12K.&14 K. foe The equal to gold in style and finish

m Peerless <“ RISIGHT ”

TRADE-MARK

The only Invisible Bifocal ground in one piece

U.S. A. Pat. August 29, 1905. Other patents pending |

Refractor «a
Retinoscope

Theorie ae ose I will give agencies to a leading
combining the objective Optical house in the principal cities
and subjective methods. , — ;

eae eee of the country. If interested, write

The ease and accuracy with which for information to the Inventor and
the * PEERLESS” corrects all sole manufacturer

errors of refraction has made it the most popular instrument

on the market to-day. B MAY ER

Write for booklet.
Wholesale Manufacturer of Optical Goods

Price, $35.00 6 East Baltimore St., Baltimore, Md.

| For sale by all jobbers or the manufacturers =
) J

Distributing Agent for Philadelphia :

h Peerless Specialty Mig. Co. D. V. BROWN, 740 Sansom Street. .

Distributing Agent for New York City:

495 Broadway, MILWAUKEE, WIS. W. T. GEORGEN CO., 32 East 23d Street.
: ;
THE USE OF THE RETINOSCOPE |
is as necessary to the optician now-a-Gays as the use of the test case. It saves time, obviates error and
gives professional prestige. The one book that thoroughly explains its use Is
;

SKIASCOPY (By Rogers)

which covers the shadow test so lucidly and simply that any refractionist can master it to the great
benefit of his business.

Sent postpaid to any part of the world on receipt of price, $1.00 (4s. 2d.)
Published by THE KEYSTONE, 19th & Brown Streets, Philadelphia, Pa.

EDWARD
BERGH

Jewelers’
Auctioneer

having had over
twenty years’ ex-
perience, I can
with safety guar-
antee you a nice
profit and sell

methods of con-

your eoods.

ducting a sale are
decidedly differ-
ent from other
auctioneers. I
am thoroughly
conversant with
all classes of

evoods; ama prac-
tical watchmaker and jeweler, which gives me a big advantage over
in the business.

others All correspondence strictly confidential.

BID W Ao Biko

Lock Box 147 Minneapolis, Minn.

DOR.I,R.LANE,SECY. DR.E.A.LANE, TREAS

1783

OR.S.W. LANE,PREST.

eRe
: ee ancl FTHEDRETICALINSTRUCTION i pp >
R
AScHoo_ FoR SCIENTIFIC! se
a Ss

—

SuITE202 MiSSOUR! BLDG. '
1023 GRANDAVE. BELL 3153 X. MAIN.

HOME 6294 MAINe

PHONES.

We are making a Special Rate of Tuition that if you are the least interested in an
Optical Course it will pay you to investigate.

WRITE FOR NEW CATALOGUE—JUST OUT

Address, DR. S. W. LANE, President and Founder
Suite 202 Missouri Building 1023 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, Mo.

FOR BUSINESS!

Every jeweler should have an Optical Department in connection
with his business.

It draws trade and it PAYS well.

How to do it: Take a course by correspondence in our school.
Complete, practical, scientific. It enables you to test and fit eyes per-
fectly. We have graduates all over the world, making big money. Write
to-day. We are offering regular $25 course for $8.00 ($2.00 down;
balance $1.00 week). Address

American Optical College

Oldest Correspondence Optical
P DETROIT, MICH.

Sehool in the World

First—In making large
profits.

Second—In holding and
entertaining large audiences
successfully.

I always guarantee large
profits.

I invite the trade to look
up my record. What more
Ban any person expect or
ask.

PREE. Writefor one. A
booklet giving some valua-
ble information, daily paper
notices and many references.

A.L. Gottlieb & Co.

AUCTIONEERS
203 South Clark St., Chicago, Ill.

Central, 1610
Phones { Automatic, 8929

VERY IMPORTANT

Jewelers, do not have
a sale tor the sole ben-

efit of the auctioneers.

Protect yourself or
may be
‘There-

fore, by all means em-

your goods

slaughtered.

ploy some one who
will guarantee to make

money for you.

Jewelers, you can-
not be too careful if you

value your interests.

1784

THE STANDING
OF AN
AUCTIONEER

is best attested by the character of

All my clients are

MY PIEAN OF
CONDUCTING
SALES

has been evolved from long expert

ence in selling large stocks for the

his patronage,

jewelers of high standing in the best jewelers.

trade and of reputation in the com- My methods guarantee success,

munity— men who insist on a and not only safeguard your repu-

strictly reputable sale as well as a tation but give to your store a

ohly successful one. creditable publicity that will per

The ideal in auctioneering— manently benefit your business. — If

SPECGCIALISS
IN THE SALE OF
HIGH-GRADE JEWELRY
BRIC-A-BRAC ann ART GOODS

my ideal—is prestige and publicity you wish this kind of sale, write at

for the store as well as profit for once, for demands are pressing and

the proprietor. the time favorable.

JOHN Ek. TURNER, 2 Naten ame, New "ork City /

>
| {
Fligh-Class Auction Sales of Jewelry, Cut Glass,
Bric-a-Brac, Antiques, etc., My Specialty ¢

A. E. GREGORY

Jewel ers’ Auctioneer
206 South 3rd Ave., Maywood, Ill.

Phone, 631 Maywood .
a
ALL CORRESPONDENCE \
SiRICTLY CONFIDENTIAL

REFERENCES CHEERFULLY
FURNISHED

A thorough knowledge of the jewelry business, and a record
of twenty-five successful years as a jewelry auctioneer, qualifies me

to make your sale a success.

I have changed my office to Maywood, IIl., one of Chicago's
most beautiful suburbs, and am now ready to make dates for fall

and winter business.

I would advise early correspondence, stating size and location
of store, amount of stock and if you have ever had any sales before.

A. E. GREGORY

THE WIZARD OF THE HAMMER

THE MAN WHO TURNS JEWELRY INTO MONEY ’
It will pay to look me up for dates, terms, ete.

A MARTIN SALE IS NOT
A SACRIFICE SALE

Many jewelers hesitate to hold an auction sale because they anticipate

a partial failure, a loss of reputation or a loss on the goods sold.

and in thirty years of continuous selling I never failed once to make good

this guarantee.

In fact the profit made is greater asa rule than if the goods were

sold across the counter,

I will give you the names of hundreds of reputable jewelers, many in

your own State, who will be glad to corroborate this statement.

No risk, an assured profit, a complete sale, a satisfied community and

a big ad.—this is the Martin sale.

Right now the result would mean release from obligations, ready

cash, new goods and an unhandicapped holiday trade.
Write me at once, as time is my greatest want.

S. MARTIN

- Jewelers’ Auctioneer
| 784 First Street

Namba: Neca Milwaukee, Wis.

Kansas City’s

Leading
Auctioneer

Is now at your ser-
| 4. vice. Start your sale

with the right man
, . and have the abundant
| success of others.

EVERY SALE A PROFIT

More success than ever.
Ligger sales than ever.
Lverybody has money this fall.
Lverybody spends money this fall.

You'll get yours, Mr. Jeweler, if you have him conduct
a sale for you. Now is the harvest time of the year. Shall
you be one of the lucky ones? Ask any Kansas City whole-
sale house for references,

H. B. LINDSEY

204 East 12th Street KANSAS, CITY, MO,

I guarantee a complete sale and a satisfactory profit in every case,

to get the best when
engaging an Auctioneer.
When you get RAVEN
you get your money’s
worth,

There are no sales
like Raven's because
there is no Auctioneer
just like Raven.

And hes is; ars bird!

Reliable, forcible and
magnetic, his superiority
is unquestioned.

His guaranteed profit
plan attracts the con-
servative jeweler, and
his quaint Yankee ori-
ginality and shrewdness
peculiarly fits him for
the work he follows.

Gentlemanly, cour-

teous and business-like
he holds the attention of the best class of people from beginning to
end of every sale he makes, and the jeweler has no cause for humiliation
with Raven on the block.

It’s no dream when Raven guarantees a profit—you can depend
upon what he says. Ask about it.

John H. Raven, Hottana, Mich.

.
1786
REINHARD & PATTERSON, *4 a ee St. Pstablished ¢ i <a sleet fot etext
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MAIL ORDERS FILLED PROMPTLY. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED aI & CO. <a
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3
®

ate Freight Forwarders and Custom House Brokers RE ( *

31 and 33 Broadway, NEW YORK 7, s e

: = CROUCH & FITZGERALD < SemtzePrecious and *

A | , , lF

. Pp ' Jewelry Sample Trunks and Gases x Wmitation Stones a
oot= ower athes Extra Deep Trunks and Cases Always in Stock S |v

16x Broadway 6g Broadway. 71 Fine Series of Scientific ne

3elow Cortlanc ‘tree sJelow Fourth Street Ped) ’ Ye.

Coureee in panels. s}elow Cortlandt mie Below lourth Street RUBIES <

‘ : ; : 723 Sixth Avenue MM y
High-grade tools Elegant in design. Between 41st and 42d Streets Br +
Superior in construction. NEW YORK PE OID AD ID AD AIS AID FIFI ADO

The Best Foot-Power Lathes Made

Engraved Souvenir Spoons
BRIGHT CUT STYLE

This cut represents our No. 4 Lathe, which is
admirably adapted for the heavier work of watch-
makers and jewelers. Send for our Catalogue.

We also make a line of Screw-Cutting Lathes for
Bicycle Repairing

W.F. & John Barnes Co.

660 Ruby Street, Rockford Ill.

CULMAN BALANCE CHUCK

FRED. A. HASKELL
206 Weybosset St., Providence. R. I.

For Refinishing Balance Pivots without remoy-
ing the Hairspring or Roller, and protecting
them while the pivots are being polished.

T= OVER 1000 SOLD THE FIRST YEAR.

Jones says ‘‘Tt’s worth its weight in gold.”’
Smith ‘f ‘It’s worth five times its cost.”

Brown ‘ Just what he has been wishing for.’’ Bes, ;
Meyer *S ‘As good as a wax chuck and ten times Be) Polishing Set C
Above are extracts from letters received. — [quicker.’’ ¥ SEL
eae BRISTLE AND . BUFFS
; Mt COTTON; ON RING B
Order from your Materia! Jobber. out RO CoTT oT RUSHES
N #
Guaranteed by Cc. CULMAN Bets eye COTTON Br cues
. ~~ 7 i 2 SHIN a po 7
316 North Sixth St., ST. LOUIS, MO. ee BRISTLE POLIS . MonEY REFUNDED
: GUARANTEED oR MOF
ACTION Viv’

SATISF

Hundreds of watchmakers testify that this chuck is what
I claim itto be, Practical, Safe, True and the Greatest
Time-Saver ever offered toaPractical Watchmaker.

To supply the demand, T have added to the former
makes the following: Hopkins No. 2, Hopkins No. 3,
Kearney, Elgin and Olin, and will be made for any
lathe for which I receive ten orders.

“'
JEWELRY STORE LIGHTING

made effective, easy and 50
to 75% cheaper than kero-
sene, gas or electric lights
by using our

Brilliant «
HEADLIGHT
Gasoline Lamps

srilliancy is
increased and
they can be used
anywhere for
any purpose, in
or out-door, by
anyone, Over
100,000 in daily
use during the
last eight vears.
Kvery lamp
guaranteed,
Write for Cata-
log; it tells all about them and our
Gasoline Systems.

BRILLIANT GAS LAMP CO.
42 State St., Chicago, Ill.

; Ta
yA
\ aa th

co ee
|

This cut represents Twenty-Three _ OY inch width
Nickel Plated, Finely Finished S§ I 2. ; j R |] ™ OS 4 Dwt. (4 )
These Rings are accurately made to ALLEN’S GAGE, 4 to 15
Note the larger sizes, you have needed them. These wide size rings are Price per Set, $1 25

especially desirable in sizing for plain oval, wide flat band or society rings.
Manufactured by the RACINE JEWELRY MANUFACTURING CO. RACINE, WIS.
For Sale by all Tool and Material Dealers

1787
S/ Jewelers Having Tortoise
Shell Goods ;

that have become dull, can have them
repolished and made as bright as new,

at a small expense, by sending them to
CATCHY the mamatacturer js

| ENGRAVING WM. K. POTTER, PROVIDENCE, R. I.

VY: in SPOON BOWLS at
Popular Prices

Sample initial order, per doz. When I Started
Buildings $3.00

20th Century
Revolving Display Stand

Especially Adapted to Jewelers

This elegant fixture is a mechanical wonder,
as well as the most beautiful and attractive dis-
play ever placed in a window. It is entirely dif-
ferent from all other revolving stands, as in this

one each shelf revolves independent of the others Nase. |. 2k 100 a Jewelry Store

AND REVOLVES IN DIFFERENT DIRECTION Artistic Monogram and Letter IT wanted a way of guaranteeing watches

AND EACH AT DIFFERENT SPEED. Electric - ay’ engraving. Reliable Plating. that would satisfy the customer and safe-

globe remains stationarv. The lower shelf is a NW Drop postal for price-list. guard myself, I devised such a guarantee

heavy plate mirror 32 inches in diameter; the three vs = and had a few blanks printed. Some peo-
eee ; : { ULLSTROM & CO. ple who saw them wanted some, so I had

other shelves are heavy plate glass, 27, 22 and 17 5 ;
: : : : : Memphis Nebraska them copyrighted and have since sold a
inches respectively. There are no cuts or words gba sinter i eemere eee

that wil! do this fixture justice. Send for price and | ~~ Pa ¥ Sales”? and ‘Guarantee for Repairs,”
further description. It will make you money. ——— == put up in books. Either kind costs:
No. 2 size, 2 to page, $1.00: No. 8 size,

F.C. KLEIN Emit KLEIN 3 to page, $1.50; No. 5 size, 5 to page,
J. H. JAMES MEG. CO. | 89.95. The No. 2 size can be oe pieed
| or mailed for 10 ets., the No. 3 for 15 ets.,
Fort Scott, Kans. | F ( KLEIN & BRO and No, 5 for 25 cts. You can buy them
| ® e ° from your jobber or from me.

Eastern Salesroom, 377=379 Broadway, New York

Southwest Corner Harry Emrie, Cincinnati, Ohio
State and Madison Streets, CHICAGO

BARGAINS Jewelry Btcam | Jewelers’ Show Cases

yAmerican Movements d
ana Swiss Watches LOUIS GOTTHOLD Ikapidary

Wesend selection packages on demand. Maker of Fine

We carry the best material and sup- §
plies at reduced prices. H Al FR J EW E LRY DIAMOND CUTTING

An assortment of discontinued Amer-

ican movements always on hand. .
We do work for the trade. 2345 Eighth Avenue

Send for Latest List Send for catalogue NEW YORK Rap oLsere ct

Philip Katz & Co. Precious and Jobbing Stones AF Mmmm Bi ag SG
51-53 Maiden Lane ae 3 erheteed BR
New York

Our Small ROSEWOOD MOULDING

CHAIN or CHARM

All others are imitations and are an infringe-

EXPERT

ment on patents. All infringements will be

prosecuted to the full extent of law. for it positively will not pull W a
0. W. YOUNG & CO. out. atch Case Repairing
Manufacturers Made in 10 and 14 Karat Gold

wel) s 2.2 zoe STEEL LINED CASE
"Ss Ziel 2 =3 S o S. 3s 0
we < a = rf gu Be Vere = a We Challenge the World to Produce a
Si</—| Ew ag zee ats Outside of Snap UE Se
2 82 Hw 23 oo) 2 228 3s '
~El<] -VaE Coe EPin toc Inside of Snap F (; JORGESON & C0)
Vlul HO TEL ota Se 8 © : s
Py oly! 8S s45 254 22% SA
® glalgZz%s FE fs 11 to 17 North Ann St.
i ae The E. P. H. Patent 3
SP ase in tneare @ LL... ft acen CHICAGO
' z be a ae es Makers of all Kinds of
7. S 5 The Improved Separable Non-pull-out Neck: Chain Tew slare Bixtuces
a Collar Buttons Snap is a patented snap that
‘o> 8 : ‘ ve aes Write for illustrated circular
2s will be known by insures the wearer against
= ° 1e signature on = : . Bir oe ties
= 3 Rederiet / ae loss of OUR MOTTO: The Best of Everything
2)
A
1 |
34
4
eo)

Office, 483 Ogden Avenue, Chicago Watch Case Manufacturing

and in Gold Filled

Can be had of the following }| Gold and

; Silver
Wholesale Selling Agents: Plating, é
Satin <4
Messrs. W. Green & Co. Finishing WA
6 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK Engraving Poy]
Se OSS PHILADELPHIA Engine- Al

CINCINNATI

J s B U LOVA «¢ ~—- Swartchild & Co.

51 & 53 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK CHICAGO =

66 Nordman Brothers
SAN FRANCISCO Old English
and

‘6 Leonard Krower

Swiss Cases
NEW ORLEANS changed to fit

«s Bauman-Massa Jewelry Co. American

ST. LOUIS Stem-Wind
‘6 E. A. Cowan & Co. Movements

BOSTON fal C 1 q Gold and Sil
Our patent fasten- Globe Lever and Globe Link Lever Specia ases made to order in rold and Silver
ing on all rings. Button Back. For hard soldering PRICES for English, Swiss and American Movements
Can be applied to Can be applied to any button. 14 Karat { Small, &7.00 per doz., net OLD CASES MADE NEW

eny Fim: Write for our New Catalogue of Rings ; Large, 7.50 “ « = «& cesar soaretras
= .
10 Karat { Pee PUES gt & F. H. JACOBSON Co.
Cane . e 3 G ld Fill 1 nasil 2.00 6é a4 ‘é 209 State Street Chicago
When writing to advertisers, kindly mention The Keystone Se a rat { Large, 2.25 «© « «6 Send for Our New Price-List

There is a
scarcity of
Engravers

at our college.

If you will attend our college now we will make an engraver of®
you before the holiday season.
engraving that will come into the average jewelry store.
can you learn Watchmaking, Engraving and Optics in a more
thorough and practical manner, nor in a shorter space of time than
See ad. on page 1702 this issue, send for our

You will be able to do all the
Nowhere

prospectus—it gives full information.

THE PHILADELPHIA COLLEGE OF HOROLOGY

FW. Schuler, Principal

It would bea pleasure to fill your
orders

LINDNER & CO.

Jewelers’ Supplies

S. W. cor. Fourth and Walnut
Use any Catalogue CINCINNATI, OHIO

For Scarf Pins, / Studs and Lace
Pins. The most practical and only ad-
justable oneinyented. Price,$1.50 per doz. For
salebyall wholesale jewelersandmaterialhouses,
Sampleby mail,25e; in 10K. gold,$1.00;14K. $1.25.
M.CROHN,Nkr.& Invir.48 &50 MaidenLane,N.Y.

Wells’ Perfect Self-Conforming
King Adjuster, cut from 10 K,
gola filled stock. Gold in front
twice as thick as on back, Ask
“your jobber for them, or I will
¥send prepaid at once (only on
lGreceipt of price), 1 doz. astd.
yg sizes, gold filled, $2.00; 1doz.
S Lg solid 10 K. gold, astd. sizes,

~~ $3.75: 1doz.metal, astd.sizes,
85c. For samples, one small and one medium
large size gold filled and one metal adjuster, 50e.
Address Chester Wells,Jeweler,Meshoppen,Pa.

U.S. and
\ Canada.

EAR
Write for our Free Book, ‘‘ How to be a Watch-
maker.’? A postal will do. STONE’S School of
Watchmaking, Globe Building, St. Paul, Minn.

Sree ELK TEETH

and CLAWS OF EAGLE,

i
i
il

=e MT. LION, LYNX, Etc.
= BQ SE WHOLESALE
= ae ey — Sent on selection to reliable
SS manufacturing jewelers
=

L.. W.. STILWELL
a =Deadwood, South Dakota

EF. Wadsworth

j Watch Case
; Manufacturer

and

Repairer

Everythingin

YS
“>

1. SUS
H ea the line of
wii Watch Case
ay Repairing,
S$ Gold and
SilverPlating,
3 Satin Finish,
@ Engraving
a: and
4 Engi
7 Engine- —
Turning
t Changing Old

ai English andSwiss
ae Cases to take
Moi American 8. YW.
Movements my
specialty.
@ OLD CASES
MADE NEW

Silversmiths’
Building,
131-137
Wabash Ave.
CHICAGO

Broad and Somerset Sts., Philadelphia, Pa.

of any locality
Buildings
engraved
in bowls.
The best and cheap-
est Souvenir Spoon
Engraver in America

CHAS. A. STAHL, JR., PROVIDENCE, R. |.

WILLHELM K. SANDBERG
Watchmaker to the Trade

Demagnetizing Watches a Specialty
[ give close, personal attention to repairs sent me.
Promptness my motto, Send for my printed
Price-List, whieh is free for the asking.

103 STATE STREET, CHICAGO

MINIATURE PORTRAITS

sated Enameled on

WATCH DIALS,
CAPS and LIDS
ak

Plain and
Colored

Can be made from
any photograph
Or print
Send 5 two-cent stamps for a beautiful sample
dial and price-list
CARMAN ARTF COMPANY
115 Dearborn Street CHICAGO, ILL.

We Teach

Engraving by
Correspondence

as well as giving
personal instruction
at our school.

Send to-day for our new
catalogue

THE AUBURN SCHOOL OF ENGRAVING

93 Genesee St., Auburn, N. Y.
Elmer EF. Page, Principal.

Souvenir Postal Cards

You will never regret
ordering them. Jewel-
ers who now carry
them are kuying in
greater quantities than
ever. Start at once and
convince yourself of
the immense sale and
big profit that you will
realize and enjoy on
souvenir postals.

SPECIAL OFFER
FOR $10.00

To make an induce-
ment to get you started
and to prove our argu-
ment, we will give with
your first order 1009
comie colored postals
of 50 subjects, this fine
rotary display stand
FREE. Stand alone is
worth $5.00 and ecards
retail two for five cents.
Price to the trade of the
cards alone, 500 for $4.50

BURNT LEATHER
POSTALS
have the largest sale of
~ any souvenir postals in
the country. 4 per100, 75 assorted subjects,
name of your city put on free, retail 10 cents,

GEO. GARTNER
Medinah Temple, Chicago, Iii.

Small Advertisements

No advertisement inserted for less
than 25 cents.

Under heading “Situations Wanted,”
ONE CENT per word for first twenty-five
words. Additional words and advertise-
ments, THREE CENTS per word.

Under allheadings except ‘Situations
Wanted,’ THREE CENTS per word.

Name, address, initials and abbre-
viations count as words, and are charged
for as part of the advertisement. No
display other than two-line initial letter,

To insure insertion money must ac-
company all orders for advertisements,
and copy must reach us not later than
the 25th of each month for insertion in
the following month’s issue.

If answers are to be forwarded,
TEN CENTS in postage stamps must be
enclosed.

The real name and address of every
advertiser must accompany the copy of
the advertisement.

Advertisers who are not subscribers
must send15 cents (special issues 25
cents) if they desire a copy of the paper
in which their advertisement appears.

Address,

THE KEYSTONE
19th & Brown Streets, Philadelphia, Pa.

SITUATIONS WANTED

Under this heading, ONE CEN'T per word, for first
twenty-five words. Additional words and advertisements,
THREE CENTS per word. No advertisement inserted
for less than 25 cents,

[SGN ES young man, 27, wants position as
4 engraver and salesman, He desires to learn
jewelry and repair work. Address,
School of Engraving, Detroit, Michigan.
MHOROUGHLY exp. graduate refractionist,
expert frame fitter, lens-grinder and assem-
bler, clock, typewriter and musie box mechanic,
wants position. Address, EK. kX, Heilbron, 3152
Vernon Ave., Chicago.

Landis

}* a watchmaker and jeweler of 20 years’ exp.,
a position after November Ist. South pre-
ferred, Can engrave some, <A. G, F, Diehl, care
©. IE. Diehl, 1518 Cherry St., Philadelphia, Pa,
TOUNG man desires steady position as watch-
maker and engraver; has lathe and complete
set of tools. Best of ref. Pennsylvania pre-
ferred. ‘‘W 274,”’ care Keystone.
een nce! 22 years’ exp., desires to
make change. Capable managing repair
department. Only firm appreciating thorough
and competent man and who pay liberally for
such need answer. State hours. West preferred,
Refs. exchanged, ‘‘S 273,” care Keystone.

Wat Cha AK and jeweler, 4 years’ exp.,
can do watch and clock, hard solder. Have
had exp. on railroad watches and French clocks.
Swede, age 26, best ref. G. W. Kilquist, Griffin
Corners, N. Y.
WA TOHMA KER, jewelryman, graduate opti-
cisn and fair engraver, 22 years, would
like position in Michigan or the West. Address,
30x 82, Reese, Mich.
WaTcHMA KE R—thorough, practical, rapid
and exp. Refs. and full particulars sent
those having opening in Eastern States. State
salary. J. H. Coon, Salt Point, N. Y.
}* young lady as general letter and monogram
engraver and saleslady, Address, “ B 262,”
care Keystone.
{LEST-CLASS watch repairer, 11 years at
bench, own tools, Some exp, in opties and
engraving. Young man, single, good ref, Colo-
rado or adjoining States preferred. Ira C.
Dugan, 832 2. Monument St., Colorado Springs,
Colo,
WATCHM AKER, optician and salesman who
can speak German. 7 years’ exp., have own
tools. Best of refs. given. Ad., “Watchmaker,”
room 1201 Heyworth Building, Chicago.

TOUNG man, 3 years’ exp., 23, as watchmaker
and optician, moderate salary. Wish chance
for advancement. Perfer Ohio. Address, H. J.
U., Box 72, Attica, Ind.
QCANDINAVIAN, age 30 years, want position
DO to finish watchmaking. Served in Finland.
Speaks English. Small wages to begin with.
Willing to work. Good ref. Have lathe and
small tools. Wm. Lundquist, Box 349, Idaho
Springs, Colo.
he watchmaker, jeweler, graduate optician,
) eapable taking charge when necessary, best
of ref, North Central States preferred, Lock
Box 34, Walkerville, Mich.
KY first-class watchmaker and engraver, near
Kansas City. State salary. Best of ref.
Address, C. W. Lindsey, 204 E. Twelfth 5t.,
Kansas City, Mo.
eee watchmaker, long exp. in all grades
J watches andclocks, Able to take full charge
department or retail store. Own tools, best ref.
Want steady and reliable position. ‘*S 282,”
eare Keystone. Ss
\ POSITION by an expert optician of exp.
4 Doctors’ refs. furnished, E. D. Marshall,
Sheldon, Mo.

\> watchmaker, jeweler and salesman, young
man, 21 years’ exp., own tools, not afraid
of work, no boozer. Kansas, Oklahoma, Indian
Territory preferred. ‘‘ D 266,” care Keystone.

————

NGRAVER, young man, wishes position, good
4 letter and monogram engraver with 3 years’
exp. and good refs. Address, B, Kettlewell,
100 Woodward Ave., Detroit, Mich,

SITUATIONS WANTED

{RTISTIC, energetic young man, 22, desires
4k position in New York or Brooklyn, Has
spe it 2 years’ in small factory and 1 in a prac-
tical repair shop. At liberty after October 20th,
Refs. W. A. Jones, care T. W. Blake, Raleigh,
N.C.
PERALANENS position by young man, age 24,
watchmaker, engraver and graduate optician.
Own tools, best ref. State wages, also hours,
‘*M 272,” care Keystone.
WANT a position or location in Thinois, by
first-class watchmaker. Address, Box 23
Tonica, Ill.

\{ WATCHMAKER and jeweler, graduate op-
: tician and engraver. Permanent position.
Young man, best ref., have tools. Chicago pre-
ferred. Address, ‘* The Jeweler,’’ 1033 Masonic
Temple, Chicago.

YOMBINATION bookkeeper and salesman ; 26
/ years old, married, use no tobacco or liquor,
5 years’ exp., can furnish best. refs. ‘* Js.281,”
care Keystone.

Wa TOES Wants permanent situation,
Do some engraving. Bench job and North-

west States preferred, Have good tools, ‘tM 280,”

care Keystone.

(Rae optician wishes a

refractionist. He understands
thoroughly. Best of refs.
care Keystone,

> Sa.

]

position us
refraction
Address, ** B 278,”

"OUNG man, with 2 years’ exp as watchmaker
and jewelry repairer, wishes position in a
Western State. Good ref. Address, Lock Box
417, Alexandria, Minn,
Wateaaa KIER, optician, salesman, fair jew-
elry repairer. 18 years’ exp.; married.
A No. 1 house only. $20 to $25 week. Address,
“Watchmaker,” Box 164, Chester, S. C.

Warcu Ms KIER and engraver, with lathe and
tools, desires a steady position. ‘J 275,”
care Keystone.
Ve: traveling salesman for jewelry or kindred
4 Jineabout Jan. Ist. Refs. furnished. **'T 285,”
care Keystone.
TOUNG man having taken course in wateh
school wishes store exp, Can en erameee
repair jewelry. Own tools, good habits; grade
uate optician. ‘ B 286,” care Keystone.
Wa teiats KER, engraver, optician, Noy, Ist,
10 years’ exp., capable managing. Towa
pref.—town 5000 inhabitants, Drugexp, KR.

Jones, Shullsburg, Wis. ‘

JOSITION as traveling salesman for optical@-
firm. JI have been in the wholesale and

retail business for 11 years as indoor salesman, u

Address, ‘‘ K 290,”? care Keystone, \.

Watches KIER and optician of highest qual-
ifications desires to correspond with respon- $ ‘

sible house needing first-class services with view

[BST CLASS watchmaker, with tools, desires
permanent position with reliable house
Sober, steady workman ; experienced in highe
grade watches and clocks. Box 45, Mountaintop,
Pennsylvania, :

POSITION wanted by young man 1s Wi ch,
clock, jewelry repairer and engraver. ave

tools and refs. West preferred. Addres
L.”? 1201 Heyworth Building, Chicago,

JEFRACTIONIST of ability, long exp. fitting
most complicated cases, practical wateh-

maker, good salesman, good appearance, to
locate with good house, Pennsylvania preferred,
‘* T) 295,” care Keystone. ge
hes watchmaker and engraver, 12 years’ exXp.,
V have full set of tools, no bad habits, can give
satisfactory ref. ‘*G.’? Box 582, May yille,
N. Dak. -”
'OUNG man wishes to finish trade under good
workinan, Prefer IJndiana or Illinois,
Address, ‘‘ L, 305,’’ care Keystone.

(ee first-class, all-around shop ma
capable doing only A No. 1 work, would like
to hear from first-class house on California coast.
£*(¢ 306,”’ care Keystone.
INGRAVER and salesperson, by
4 young lady. ‘HI 300,’ care Keystone. ‘
}* engraver and assistant watchmaker, moder-

ate exp.; will accept moderate salary if there
is chance of improving. Address, ‘*G.,’? 1104
Heyworth Building, Chicago.

competent

RY good engraver, can do lettering, monograms
and spoon bowl engraving, also assist in
clock-work. Prefers to go West.

‘*K, 1104,’? 42 Madison Street, Chicago.

R¥ engraver with only moderate exp., willing
) to accept moderate salary, if given a chance
to learn more about jewelry business. Address,
S.,” care 1104 Heyworth Building, Chicago.

IXPERT watchmaker, optician, stone-setter,
4 good jeweler and engraver, desires change
at once, 14 years’ exp.; best Northern or South-
ern ref. Employer must be practical. Pittsburg
or vicinity preferred. FF, G. Cheek, Chester,

Address,

‘an do plain engraving ; has full set of tools,

0;
YOUNG nian wauts position as watchmaker.
(
( ‘tA 307,” care Keystone.

‘an give good refs.
RY all-around manufacturing jeweler, stone-
) setter, with first-class retail jewelry store.
State salary in first reply, or I will positively
not answer. ‘‘C 227,’’ care Keystone.

‘KILLED optician and engraver wishes remu-
0 nerative position until Jan. 1,1906. Indiana
pref. Refs. ‘R.S. B.,’’ flat No. 36, The Mar-
guerite, 528 N. Senate Aye., Indianapolis, Ind.

RX young lady as general letter and monogram
engraver. Willing to wait on trade, “ B $12,”
care Keystone.

SITUATIONS WANTED

MANU AS )TURING jeweler, who does diamond
dk setting and enameling. Have rolls, lathes,
etc. Desire to work for some retail store.
Box 1250, Los Angeles, Cal.

Bi Seely watchmaker and fair engraver.

Age

35. Capable taking full charge and we iting on

rade. Al refs, Box 66, Greenville, Norwich, Conn,

Wy ATCHMAKE R, “engraver and jeweler—an

expert on all’3 branches. Haye my tools;

best ref. West pret . Address, ‘I, South oil

City, Pa.

GRADUATE of MeCormick’s wishes,

or de-

‘. sires, a situation with a first-class optical
house on a salary or percentage. Adaress,
** 1315,” care Keystone.

l} competent Italian watchmaker, letter and
monogram engraver, perfectly familiar with
complicated Swiss work. 25 years of age,
married, good refs. and complete tools. Demand
good salary and position in Los Angeles or San
l'raneciseo, Cal. Address, S. Randazzo, 820
Missouri Ave., Kansas City, Mo.

HELP WANTED

UNDER THIS HEADING THREE CENTS PER WORD

eer aetna ah and jeweler, niust be good
salesman, in asm: ul town of 2500, in Maine.
Steady job. ep 897," care Keystone.
‘NGRAVER for 30 days from Dee. 1, ’05 to
4 Jan. 1,06. August Jacobs, jeweler, Quincy, III.
\ ATC HM AKER and engraver at once. Will
pay $20 a week for first-class man. Perma-
nent position, Refs., sample engraving, photo.
first letter. Married man pref. L. A. Ott,
Mansfield, Ohio.

VAN who is good watchmaker and engraver,
4k between age of 25 and 40; good appearance ;
must not chew tobacco or use liquor.
$20 to $22 per week. Position permanent. Ref.
and sample of engraving with first letter.
L. Lechenger, 419 Main Street, Houston, Texas.
(' yD, reliable watchmaker and jeweler—need

not be engraver or optician, must be sales-
man. Wages, $15 per week. J. W. Hansen,
Princeton, Ind.

Wapgue: AKER, first-class

ha $20. W. R. Hale,

Wo Pe nutactinine jewelers wanted. Must be

first-class on new work. State wages ex-
pected, also full description of yourself and
ab lities i in first letter. Good refs, indispensable.
Je San Diego, Cal.

Salary,

workman; good
Greenville, 8S. C.

(ST-CLASS watchmaker, engraver and opti-
cian wanted. Must be fine on high-grade
Watches, State wages expected, also a full
lescription of yourself and your abilities in
irst letter. Jessop, San Diego, Cal.

TRAVELING salesman

for Pe nnsy nnsylvania, 1

New Jersey and Delaware; experienced in
watch and jewelry jobbing ‘line. Address,
*“W 270,” care Keystone.

\OOL and material clerk with e Xp.
Northwestern house. Full particulars and
ry wanted first letter. Refs. required.
. 269,”’ care Keystone,

First-class

! ST-CLASS engraver, watchmaker and

jewabhy repairer ; experienced. State full
particufars. For a good town in Michigan.
Adda H, I’. Hahn & Company, Powers
, Chicago.

and
a Western
State exp.
ao refs. dee OW ard & C ompany,”
room 1201 Heyworth Building, Chicago.

WNGR. AVIER, at once, to do trade work. Must
LU be good at lette ring, cyphers and monograms

On jewelry and silverware. Address, ‘ 268,”
care ystone,

(ON is open to a young man, single
“¢ good habits, as a clerk in

and repairer of jewelry. A
Estberg & Sons, Waukesha,

engraver
y position,
Wisconsin.

D Jetter and monogram engraver, who
understands clock work thoroughly to assist
watchwork. Salary, $15 per week. Ref. and
ample of engraving in first letter. Address,
“ Jeweler,’’ 1031 Up. Third St., ivansville, Ind.
PIRST-CLASS watchmaker. Apply by letter
_ to James H. Kelly, care of the Bailey, Banks
& Biddle Company, 1218 Chestnut Street, Phila-
delphia, Pa.

FIRST-CLASS watchmaker and engraver
‘ one that can do hard solder work. Address,
The Pollock Jewelry Co., Oklahoma City, O. T.

\: ATCHMAKER . firs

Ww ated) first-class" eOueInET:
Steady position and good salary in Phila-
delphia. ‘* M 263,” care Keystone.
_ that can

YEFRACTING optician; one take

charge of small business in New England
town. Must do plain watch, clock and jewelry
repairing (no engraving), must wait upon Cus-
tomers, be neat, of good address and not a
drinking man. Age from 25 to 50 years;
American pref. State wages expected, with
refs. in first letter. ‘* M 267,’’ care Keystone.
‘OOD watchmaker and engraver. Send ref.

and state salary. Permane me position for
the right man. Chas. F. Miller, Cairo, Ill.

Mate AL clerk. Young man with exp. as
4 atchmaker to fill material orders; good
opportunity for advancement. Address, in own
handwriting | with ref., “S 264,” care Keystone,

T once, assistant w: ate hmaker ‘ , pl: in engraver.
‘ Address, Lock box 254, Parsons, W. Va

you NG man that is both druggist and jeweler.
_. Permanent position, good salary for the
right man, J’rank Hillix, Weston, Mo,

HELP WANTED

RUSTWORTHY man to manage branch office
and distributing depot for large manufac-
turer. Salary to start with, $1500 first year, and
extra commissions and expenses. Applicant
must have good ret. and $1000 cash; capital
secured. Exp. unnecessary. <Ad., ‘* Manager,”
P. O. box 613, Detroit, Mich.

At once, young man, plain letter and mono-
f something of
wate

ram engraver w ho knows
1, clock and jewelry repairing, and desires
to learn more under competent watchmaker and
diamond-setter. Steady position to right man
Town 6000 pop.—Western New York. ‘* T 259,”

care Keystone.

ee engraver and jobbing jeweler.
Sober and reliable. To the right man a good
salary. Pleasant and permanent position with
man,who has served 20 years at the bench and
can appreciate good workman. [£xtremely
healthy city—no fever here. Silas A. Burgoyne,
10S. Royal Street, Mobile, # Ala.

(}OOD watchmaker and engraver; must be

honest, young man of good habits and ap-
pearance; good ref. required. State exp. and
salary expected to start. M. J. Scudder, 407
Main Street, Bradford,

()PTIC [IAN and jeweler. Good wages, D.
McGruer, Hannah, N. Dak.

We ATCHMA AKE R and engraver,

jewelry repairing; must have own tools.
State salary, single or married, age, sample of
your engraving and refs. in first letter. P. (
Box 286, Lexington, Ky.

A FIRST-CLASS watchmaker (one who can en-
Shes preferred ), to go South at once. Must
be Al workman, honest, strictly sober, indus-
trious and own tools. $20 per week to begin
with and more if after fair trial you are worth
it. Send refs. and photo in first letter, also
state whether married and age. H. ik. Adams,
Tampa, Fla.
WATCHMAKER, jeweler, engraver, to
charge repair department. $20 to $25 per
week. Fine town, 7000 population ; best climate,
none more healthful. Permanent position. Send
refs., samples engraving, full particulars first
letter. Duke Jews elry Co., Fayetteville, Ark.

‘URFACE grinders on optical lenses. Exp.
Good wages. Apel to F. A. Hardy & Com-
pany, 131 W ‘abash Ave., Chicago, Ill.

\ ATCHMAKER and Salat engraver wanted
at once. Permanent position. ee be
well up on watch work. Salary, $18. Address,
Whaler’s Jewelry Store, Miami, Fla.

\T once, watchmaker and engraver, first-class,
l good. work ; best all-the-year climate in the
world. State ’ particulars first letter. Send
samples. Robert J. Taupert, Las Vegas, N. Mex

R IMLESS worker, permanent position to right
party. Give ¢ age, exp., ref. and salary wanted.
The Kennedy Optical Co., Detroit, Mich.

W ATCHMAKER and sagt ‘aver. Must be ready
to take position at once. Must be able to
do good watch work and artistic engraying.
Permanent position to right man. Clean linen
and neat appearance demi: inded, Send sample
of engraving and full statement of ability in
first letter. Don’t take position if you cannot
do good work. State age and if married. $20
per week. The F. O. Brooks Jewelry Co.,
Madison, Ind.
eee es jeweler and engraver; must be
first-class on cluster work, must not chew
tobacco or use liquor. Send sample of engray-
ing and ref. with first letter. Salary $25 per
week. Address, L. Lechenger , Houston, Tex.
(OOD watchmaker and aes or for the largest,
store in Virginia. Permanent position to
right party. Salary, $20 to $25 per week. Apply,
Heyman & Kramer, 65 Nassau Street, New
York City.
QTRICTLY first-class jeweler, engraver and
salesman wanted for Atlanta, Ga. Must
have exceptional refs. as to chars veter and ability.
Wages, $25 per week; permanent. Address,
**K 292,” vare Keystone.
/OUNG man as assistant watchmaker, who is
also good at jewelry repairing.

’
State refs.
and salary wanted. J. S. Pfeiffer,
Kans.

Parsons,
[P-TO-DATE watchmaker,
cian,

man.
coln,

able to do

take

jeweler and opti-
Fine opportunity for a good, all-around
tefs, required. Cohen & Heilborn, Lin-
Nebr.
AT o once, good German jeweler and optician,
who will make himself useful all- around in
drug and jewelry store. Address, ‘‘S 288,”
care Keystone,

T once, a first-class watchmaker and ange aver.
‘\ Steady position for the right party. A. Jonas
& Sons, Established 1863 122 W. Federal St.,
Youngstown, Ohio.

‘OUNG man with 2 or3 years’ exp, at watch,
clock and jewelry repairs and pretty fair
salesman:

Kuhn, jeweler, 1748 Chouteau Ave.,
. Louis,

Mo.

iy ATC HM. AKER and jeweler with drug exp.
Steady job for right man. Give refs. C. H.
Blanchaine, Ossian, Towa.

’OUNG man to do clock and jeweiry repairing
and help wait on trade. Chance to finish
rade with good firm. Salary, $8 a week. State
age and exp. Ross J. Haseltine Co., Kokomo,

Ind.
PERS ST-CLASS watchmaker, salesman ; perma-

nent position in leading store in city of
40,000 pop. within 70 miles of Philadelphia.
Good salary to right man, with best chance for

advancement. Best. refs. required; give full
particulars, “ B 308,” care Key-tone,
&

HELP WANTED

JOUNG man who ean engrave some and do
plain watch work. Send sample of engraving

and state wages. Ehrichs’, jewelers, Lynchburg,

Virginia.

A 4 GOOD, reliable watchmaker, engraver and
optician. Must be a man of good address.

Will pay good salary. Refs. must be unques-

tionable. “Address, ** L 293,”’ care Keystone.

WW: ATCHMAKER to take charge in small town
in North Carolina, one who understands

optical work. $65 per month to start. Address,
M. J. Averbeck, 19 Maiden Lane, New York
City.

WAtcHMa KER and jeweler. KE. J. Avery,
Grand Haven, Mich.
(FOOD watchmaker and jeweler, help as sales-
man, Steady work, short hours, good town
and schools, cheap living. $10 to start. “S 301,”’
care Key stone.

\ FIRST-CLASS engraver,
f repairer and assistant
man preferred. Give-exp., ref. and state salary
wanted in first letter. Must be a hustler. Per-
manent situation. _M. F. Bell, Kalamazoo, Mich.

Wx ATCHMAKE aR... jeweler , engrave rand assist-
ant s: ilesman.- Pocaane nt situation to com-
petent man, T. A. Mauch, Yazoo City, Miss.

1A LESMAN—Le: ading Eastern wholesale watch

house wants representative (Jan. Ist) for
Pittsburg and contingent territory, and South.
“W 261,’ care Keystone.

W TATCHMAKE R,

clock and jewelry
ratchmaker. Single

jeweler and clock repairer
and engraver. Salary, $20 to $25, according
to ability. Address, with refs. and sample of
el igraving, J. Low insohn, Birmingham, Ala.
poe INT jeweler and clock repairer
manent situation. W. H. Appel,
town, Pa.
Poe REN CED letter and
4 graver; good, permanent
“'W 311,’ care Keystone.
WIRST-C LASS watchmaker aud engraver, do
some jewelry work. Man to demand good
salary. Send ref. first letter. Thos. Van Auken
& Co., 516 Pearl St., Beaumont, Tex

iF IRST -CLASS watchmaker to hive charge o
‘. a retail store for a manufacturing corpora-
tion. One who would take stock vreferred.
‘** B 309,”’ care Keystone.

Wa TCHMAKER, good engraver and salesman ;
steady job. Town 5000. Ed. J. Niewohner,
Columbus, Nebr.

EME SDIATELY , first-class, all-around work-

man to take charge our prescription depart-
ment. Must thoroughly understand lens drill-
ing, mounting, frame bending, surface and
edge grinding. Good pay and_ permanent
position, W helesale only. Dallas Optical Com-
pany, Dallas, Tex.

frRst- -CLASS watchmaker , jeweler, engraver—
high-class, experienced man, City of 20,000

; per-
Allen-

monogram en-
job. Address,

pop. Permanent position to good man. State
age, sn salary, ref. and full particulars first
letter. . W. Se Legue, Logansport, Ind,

fae? ai IsR—steady, reliable young man who
4 can engrave, to fearn watchmaking, optical
and stone-setting business, I irst-class oppor-
tunity to complete trade Fleming Bros., Kau
Claire, Wis.

AN exp. traveling salesman with a trade follow-
4. ing can find a good opening with a Chicago
wholesale jewelry house in lowa and Nebraska
territory. Address, ‘‘Norton & Company,”
room 1201 He ‘yworth, ( ‘hic ago.

BY Chicago wholesale jewelry house, an exp.
traveling salesman for Southwestern terri-
tory. A good opening. lor particulars, address,
‘Anderson & Co.,” room 1201 Heyworth Build-
ing, Chicago.
pBSr Che mfg. jeweler and stone-setter.
Permanent position, Send particulars, salary
expected and ref. I. A. Scribner, Green Bay,
Wis.
T once, a good watchmaker, do not want man
4 to wait on trade. State age, married or
single, exp. and salary. Harvey Fritz, Oil
City, Pa
WATCHMA KER, strictly honest and first-class
salesman, to demonstrate the Clement com-
bined lathe attachment in St. Louis, W. D.
Clement, Waltham, Mass.
Wax ‘ED, expert watchmaker, optician, plain
engraver ; permanent position; salary, $20
and percentage on optical work to start with;
best refs. required. The Plaut-Cadden Co.,
Norwich, Conn.

A BRIGHT young mechanic, with some know-
i lenee of ‘watchwork and’ wishing to be an

xpert, can find an opening by addressing with
full danuodiars George Winning, room 1201
Heyworth Building, Chicago.

WANTED

UNDER THIS HEADING THREE CENTS PER WORD

EWELER’S safe, large size. I.
VU Greenwich, N. Y.

(NE Clement combined lathe attachment. IL.
v_M. Watson, 500 Washington St., Boston, Mass.

ENGINE JERS Y level or transit. L. P. Arnold,
Carlisle, Ark.

W -W. wheel-cutting attac hment, index plate,
* index pointer, idler pulley. J. Freistadte r;

Waltham, Mass.

B. Powell,

ENEVA retinoscope and ophthalmoscope com-
bined—must be in first-class condition. Send
lowest price, (, S$, Hayes, Nor folk, Nebr,

1789
WANTED

N°: 1 Oliver drop press, Smith, Olean,

\\ New York.

{OOP second-hand Eaton & Glover engraving
machine, J. A. Power, Owingsville, Ky.

Was ,LNUT rotl-top watchmaker’s work bench.

Address, ‘‘S 294,”? care Keystone.
{LL kinds and sizes Elgin, Waltham, Hamp-

I den, Hamilton, Illinois, Rockford move-

ments; filled, silver, nickel cases, at bargain

price: Send complete list what you have. Mrs,
N. H, Allen, Box 273, Tecumseh, Okla. Ter.

| ENS-EDC SDGING outfit, mounted wheel, lens-
4 eutter, drill and motor. State lowest cash

price first letter. Box 121, Anacortes, Wash.
MERICAN lathe, ataane

‘} watch glasses ; no old stuif,

Michigan.

W ANT good watch sign, 24 to 30 inch. \

Conrad, Wapello, Lowa.

tool, watch |
Box 420, Boy ne,

sign,

Wm.

(FENE \VA_ office trial case, Nos. 905, 901 pre-
ferred. Must be complete and price right.

Lee Thompson, Andrews, Ind.

FOR SALE

UNDER THIS HEADING THREE CENTS PER WORD

STORES, STOCKS AND BUSINESSES

eee est jewelry store and business a the
Cripple Creek gold mining district. Cash
business, $25,000 to £30,000 annually . A1, clean
stock, invoice about 320,000; can reduce to
about $10,000 in 60 days. sig repair trade,
railroad inspector. Up-to-date fixtures. <A
money-maker, Istablished 10 vears. Owner
must give up indoor work, Address, ‘tC 184,’’
care Key rstone,

GE JLL jewelry stock and rent space. “* Druggist,”’
11500 Michigan Avenue, Chicago.

oO) GA \ BUYS jewelry store, including fixtures,
safe, tools and location. Chas. W,

Thegian, 530 W. Sixty-ninth St., Chicago, Il.
WWrELRY and music store in live, new town
Vv for sale. Terms on part. Owner gone to

settle an estate. ‘‘ DeClark,’’ Emmett, Idaho.
\rOCk and fixtures, Kastern Iowa town 800. Ali
work one man can ‘do. “Hi: 316,” careKeystone.
89 GOH (II ) WILL purchase a tong - established
: jeweiry business in Rome, Ga. Store

auatea in the best retail district. Rome and
Floyd County have a trading population of

40,000. The city is very prosperous. Cause of
sale, owner’s death. Address, C. B. Goetchius,
? u

ome, Ga.

IWELRY and optical stock and fixtures in
¥ good Ohio town, 40 miles south of Cleveland ;

also store and residence combined. W. W.
Wells, Lodi, Ohio.
YETALTL jewelry store at Phoenix, Ariz.; capital

of territory. pop. 12,000; 3 railroads. Estab-
lished business paving good profits. Desire to
retire, reason for selling. Address, H. F,
Vantilburg, Phoenix, Ariz.

(HICAGO jewelry store owner wishes to retire.
Kstablished over 24 years near prominent
corner. Stock $5000, ean be reduced to suit,
Repairs over $200 per month. Lease to suit.
‘*V 124,” care Keystone.

[ORS established jewelry business in
4 Vernon, Iowa. Small, clean stock. Snap for
good wate +h re pairer and engraver. Other busi-
ness demands my time and attention. J. 5.
Smith, Mt. Vernon, Iowa.

Tl’ onee, , good- -paying jewelry and optical busi-
4. ness in up-to-date Wisconsin town of 3000
pop. Rich farming country. Great opportunity
for right man; investigate. ‘‘H 279,’”? care
Keystone.

KWELRY
VU business.

. Mt.

store in Austin, Pa., doing a good
W.5. Warner, Austin, Pa.
W TILL sacrifice good-paying jewelry business.
Jest. location in Illinois town of 12,000.
Will invoice $4000, but will reduce. ‘‘ H 271,”
care Keystone.

{N old-established optical business to settle
4. estate in Weoreseem D. C. Chas. Bauman,
attorney, 323 4/4 St., Ww. , Washingon, D. C.

S300 BUYS one of ih nicest complete jewelry

stores in Southeastern Missouri. This
offer is open only for this month. You ean
step in and reap the holiday trade. Address,
Geo. C. Hasslinger, Jackson, “Mo.
EWELRY and optical business—a money-
maker. ae my ad. in last month’s Kry-
STONE. Phil. Levy, Henderson, Ky.

G4()0 2° TO $500 buys jewelry and fixtures in
good Iowa town of 1000 pop. Must sell
at once. Good opening for young man, Address,
Lock box 22, Paullina, Iowa.
(tOOD-PAYING jewelry business in growing
town of 8500. Stock and fixtures invoice
about $4000. Will reduce or give time. G. B.
Jenison, Blaine, Wash,
MNE jewelry store, established for 25 years in
city of 14,000 in Northwestern Ohio. Addre Ss,
““M 265,’ care Keystone,
G47) BUYS a good-paying optical business in
a town of 2300. Address, ‘‘ Optometrist,”’
bas 226, Harrison, Ohio.
§ 000° ‘ASH buys first-class, up-to-date jewelry

stock and fixtures (no old stock) estab-
lished 15 years. Good reason for selling. Very
little competition; always has paid; a good

thing. Present owner cleared $500 above ex-
penses first 4 months. No optician within 20
miles. Don’t answer unless you mean business,

Michigan town. ‘‘ W 260,” care Keystone,
(Continued on page 1790)

mS
“I
\O

FOR SALE

STORES, STOCKS AND BUSINESSES

(Continued from page 1789)

GOOD-PAYING business, $10,000 stock and
‘. fixtures; Minnesota city, 10,000. Reason,
dissolution of partnership. eh" 291-2 Gare
Keystone.
fa RGSIN Sood location in first-class Wis-
consin town; pop. 8000. Old-established
business; stock and fixtures can be bought
cheap. Ad., L. J. Rusk, attorney, Chippewa
Falls, Wis.
¥47() CASH if taken this month. Will buy
4 first-class jewelry stock and fixtures,
which will invoice 36500. All goods are up-to-
date—no old stock. Jlowa county seat; best
location in city. Do not write unless you have
the cash and mean business. Address, ‘‘ Io 284,”
sare Keystone.
()NEX jewelry, stationery, china and optical
business in Iowa town, 800. Invoice about
$1500. Good crops. Nearest jeweler 12 miles.
Address, ‘‘ P 287,” care Keystone.

EWELRY store at a bargain. Stock and fix-
¥ tures about $4000. Store established 25 years ;
main street. A bargain for quick, cash customer.
William A. Goldsby, 1514 Fourteenth Street,
N. W., Washington, D. C.
$1200) CASH takes jewelry business that in-
Oho voices $1800, no dead stock, in Southern
Wisconsin town.

No competition. Rich dairy
Fine repair trade. Reason, failing

country.
health. ‘'S 237,” care Keystone.

¥4()() BUYS up-to-date jewelry store, fine
¢ fixtures, located in center of town ot
15,000—Pennsylvania. Invoices over $5000.
Don’t write unless you mean business. ‘* M 297,”
sare Keystone,
S500) CASH will buy prosperous jewelry store
do in New York State. Climate suitable
to a person with lung trouble. Ad., ‘f R 298,”
rare Keystone.
839 ()() BUYS souvenir spoon factory in Western
Qua city. Sales, $1500 to $2000 a month.
Can be raised easily to $3000 or $4000 with same
line. A fine opportunity. Address, ** D 299,”
are Keystone.
F 1000) OR. less, only jewelry store. Work for
QA one man. Farm and dairy country.
Write if you mean business. Halstead, Davis
City, Towa.
| AILROAD fare to Little Rock, providing you
purchase our eptire lot of store fixtures, con-
sisting of 6 12-foot wall cases, 1 mirror cabinet,
1 plain cabinet, 10 show cases and tables, 1 round
horseshoe case and table, 2 umbrella cases, show
vase trays, ete. All for the sum of $625 spot
eash. Address, Albert Pfeifer & Bro., Little
Rock, Ark.
Vag jewelry store in Illinois city of 3000,
doing business over $4000 annually. 6¢ dis-
count now, or 10% discount Fine
chance ; about $1800 required. care
Keystone,

Jan. Ist.

660. ane 99
( oUL,

OWA. Jewelry-musie store ; town of 2600 pop.

Stock and fixtures about $3000; can reduce.
No gold brick. Write for particulars. ‘** M 304,”
care Keystoue.

pr ISPEROUS jewelry business in thriving

county seat, lowa town 5000; paved streets,
otherwise up-to-date. Stock and fixtures invoice
about $4500. Will take $4000 cash if taken
quickly ; especially good opening. Repairs,
$100 per month; light competition. Reason for
selling, other interests. Write for particulars.
**G 303,’’ care Keystone.

(OOD-FAYING jewelry business in Northern
New Jersey town of 5000 inhabitants for a
man with $3500, cash money. Receipts, $5000
per annum. Up-to-date stock. Good reasons
for selling. Now or Jan. 1, 1906. Address,
“fA. F.,’’ 91 Park Avenue, Irvington, N. J.

EWELRY and optical business in Northern
U New York mfg. town. Bargain if taken at
once. ‘*D 313,’ care Keystone.

EWELRY and optical store. Fine stock and
Uv fixtures. Invoice about $2500, at a genuine
bargain if sold at once. Fine location, rent low.
feason, poor health. P. O. box 536, South-
ington, Conn.

EWELRY and optical store. Best location on
main street; city Northern California. Pop.
12.000. Price, $2500. Must sell: reduce stoek
if necessary. Reason, poor health. For further
particulars address, ‘‘ P 314,” care Keystone,
GREAT opportunity for jeweler and optician,
TI On account of other business which requires
my immediate attention I am discontinuing the
jewelry business and offer my fixtures complete
or in part at a great bargain. Safe alone cost
$1000 to install. Fixtures complete, making
liberal discounts, amount to $950. Will sell for
$700. Best location in city. No better oppor-
tunity offered to the man that wishes to start
for himself. Send for list. Geo. KE. Holmes,
Lock Haven, Pa.

OUTHERN Michigan. Stock, $3000; with fix-
tures, fine business; city 30,000.pop. 1200 to
1500 residences built this year; great manufac-
turing town, up-to-date stock. Cash or good
security. Other business forces me to sell.
‘< B 253,”’ care Keystone.

AVE 2 stores, can’t attend both. Will sell
Cireleville store, bargain if taken at once.
Population 7000; yearly profit $3500. Can re-
duee stock to $2000. Holiday business will pay
for it. $1000 down, balance easy, or discount
for cash, L. W. Lewis, Circleville, Ohio,

FOR SALE

UNDER THIS HEADING THREE CENTS PER WORD

MISCELLANEOUS MERCHANDISE AND
EQUIPMENT

te a bargain, a Pinkham & Smith toric lens-
fl grinding machine, almost new. Address,
**W 180,’? care Keystone.
\ ARINE chronometer, made for Riggs & Bro,
i Very close timekeeper. Address, *‘ H 189,”
care Keystone.
1O. 2 Francis engraving machine, type and
iN attachments, good condition, $60. E. B.
Smith, Santa Ana, Cal.
v9) FOR nickel-plated eagle watch rack, holds
O4 50 watches, used 1 year. W.G. I rederick,
Sioux lalls, 8. Dak.
[N Al condition guaranteed, ophthalmometer
and adjustable stand. Best offer accepted,
Box 598, Dunkirk, Ind.
\OMPLETE set of watchmaker’s tools, almost
new. Also books on watchmaking and elec-
tro plating cheap. Address, ‘‘J 289,” care
Keystone,
Mork CCO pocket trial case, $12.50, cost $22.50.
4 Traveler’s case, $28.50 cost 335. Retino-
scopic mirrors, 75 cents and Sl. Creigleith stone
on Webster stand, $20. 1h. p. gas engine, $50.
Remington typewriter, $385. H. Brodhun,
Wilkes-Barre, Pa.
WicHt engraving machine with four sets of
type, $10. Also small polishing lathe with
stand complete, $5. Both in good order, Parti-
culars on application. W. Ware, Waverly, N. Y.
\ 'EBSTER-W HITCOMB Jathe, tailstock, coun-
tershaft, foot wheel, universal face-plate,
Jacot pivoting lathe, all bench tools, 21 chucks,
2 staking tools, all kinds of material. Address,
H. Funeke, Empire Building, Pittsburg, Pa,
DEGULATOR, 3 eight-foot oak cases, tables
and trays. Will sell all or part. A bargain,
Cole & McElwain, Atlantic, Lowa.
ee water pearls, baroques and slugs, right
from the river. Phil Levy, Henderson, ky.
JATON & Glover engraving machine, new
4 model, first-class condition. $65 takes it, full
outfit of type. J. E. Miller, Glen Campbell, Pa.
Xi) GENEVA retinoscope and ophthalmoscope
do used three months, $60. L. J. Weiler,
Carbondale, Ill.

patos & Glover engraving machine, only
4 used 6 months, positively good us new, all
appliances. Will forward promptly to first
person sending me check for $35. Ray Call,
Waynesburg, Greene Co., Pa.

| Noses case, practically new ; cost me $45, will
sell for $30 if taken at once. Write for fur-
ther particulars, ‘‘ K 257,”’ care Keystone.
MWENTIETH century polishing lathe, $9; No.
6 metal watch sign, 22 inch, $7; Leather
telescope, sample case, With trays for watches,
rings, jewelry, ete., lock straps, made to order,
beZeng refractometer, $25; Nachet trial
case, $15; book of monograms, cost $15, 33;
first money received gets the article. I. O. B.
The S. T, Little Jewelry Co., Cumberland, Md.

S12:

Ne English regulator, 8 foot tall, carved case,
mercurial pendulum, silver dial. Cost $350,
Don’t miss this chance. Can be bought cheap.
Address, “ Z 296,’’ care Keystone.
‘ULL set of watchmakers’ tools and material
good as new ; invoice at $221, A bargain to
the first man for $150. Ed. G. Nix, 111 North
Jefferson Street, Huntington, Ind.

A 20TH Century engraving machine, 5 sets of
type. E. 8S. Smith, Olean, N. Y.

\NE 9 x 36 foot-power screw-cutting lathe, same
as new. J. A. Power, Owingsville, Ky.
FEW second-hand show cases and tables,

also a few second-hand travelers’ trunks,

Benj. Allen & Co., 131-137 Wabash Ave., Chicago,

PERS engraving block, outfit

Vv Strong’s metal transfer Gaide,

Fort Wayne, Ind.

“TITTLE Giant’’
4 condition, almost new, >9.

Racine, Wis.

faaNelS engraver, 3 fonts type and attach-
ments. H. L. Dodge, Anacortes, Wash.

complete
type. C,

melting furnace, perfect
J. W. Spence,

FOR SALE OR EXCHANGE

UNDER THIS HEADING THREE CENTS PER WORD

| HOUSES, rent for $125 per month, price
£7000: 5-roomed modern house, rents for

$15 per month, price $1250; 7-roomed_ house,

rents for $25 per month, price $2000. Will ex-

change any of the above for stock jewelry of

equal value. Write for particulars, giving

descriptions of stock. Will. 5. Wood, Cripple

Creek, Colo.

\V -W. slide-rest for shotgun or rifle. W.Kantle-
> huer, West Branch, Mich.

‘XCHANGE §$7 foot-wheel for ‘t Hornikel’s

4 Engravers’ Text-Book.”* J. F.Cole,McKinney,
Collin County, Texas.

TWO jeweler’s cases, solid cherry, 12x3 feet,

each, plate glass fronts and ends, mirror
between (5x 3’) cases, compartments and pulls;
made in Cost $1500. Photograph.
Will sell cheap or trade for diamonds. Emmett
Beckley, St. Joseph, Mo.

sections.

7A ACRE farm near Norfolk, Va. Splendid

dark soil, good climate ; 600 acres improved
—halance pasture. Twenty-five thousand dollars
($25,000 ) for farm, crops, teams and implements.
Will take good stock of jewelry, $20,000 to $40,000.
B, L, Scott, box 150, Holland, Mich,

jeweler 30 years.

FOR SALE OR EXCHANGE

| $75 REGINA music box. Take $50 in watches.
4 John Pruett, Rockville, Ind.
peat copies of THE KEYSTONE from February,
‘A 1895, to March, 1906. Would aecept good
Marlin or Stevens’ 22 calibre repeating rifle.
W. 5. Simmons, Massena, lowa.

Mx jewelry business in central part of Pennsyl-
it ~vania, established 88 years, worth $12,000,
for sale, or exchange for farm or unencumbered
city real estate and cash. Can reduce stock if
desired. ‘‘S 276,’ care Keystone.
YRISOPTOMETER, Jens-measure watch sign,

spectacle case, staking tools, watch glass and
cabinet at half price, or exchanged for card
index cabinet, 4 to 8 drawers. Clark Bros.,
St. Cloud, Minn,

T° exchange diamonds for spectacle and eye-
glass frames and uncut lenses. C. 5. Apple,
Statesville, N. ©,
\ 1905 model Cadillae automobile,10 horse-power
4 runabout, in use only 8 months. Will ex-
change same for diamonds or watches. Address,
Lochman Bros., Springfield, Il.
(jase Culbertson’s prisoptometer and one John-
stom’s dioptric eyemeter to exchange for a
good perimeter, ‘* V 258,”’ care Keystone.
Y'TOCK of jewelry, with tools and fixtures;
0 about $2000. Towa county seat. Will sell
cheap and give terms, or take small income
property. Rare chance. R, R. Craig, Oska-
loosa, lowa,
wet have you to trade for a
Rogers “ Eagle”? brand fancy
Aid Bros., Gallatin, Mo.
JLECTRIC train, complete outfit for window
4 display, worth $18, to trade for engraving
block and tools. C, L. Spencer, Blanchard, Lowa,
si BICYCLE, with coaster brake, perfect
0d order; Geneva lathe, good order, 9 wire
chucks and foot-wheel to trade for trial case
and things optical. J.P.Inman, Midland, Texas,
YASH register and coaster brake
** Hf 310,’ care Keystone.

lot of Wm,
flatware,

bicycle.

{LEAR 160 acres farm land in Comanche Co.,

J Kans., for jewelry store. Address, Miller

Optical Co., Kingman, Kans.

EG xia Racycle Pacemaker, 112 gear, for
auton & Glover engraving machine or trial

case, in first-class condition, Louis Mackenzie,

Pulaski, Tenn.

SPECIAL NOTICES

UNDER THIS HEADING THREE CENTS PER WORD

(eT the people in your store. Have a Colonial
glass sale, Read Iranklin Glass Co,’s ad.
on page 1676.
OR rent. Best located room for jewelry store,
city of 30,000, Central Illinois ; occupied by
Present firm now closing out
business. Room will be vacated Noy. Ist. A
chance of a lifetime for party wishing to invest
from $20,000 to $30,000. Louis I oust, Bloom-
ington, Ill.
JINE opening for jewelry store in growing
Washington town, E. Andrew, Palouse,Wash.
WRITE for free catalogue of The National
College of Optics, Cedar Rapids, Iowa.

(ET the people in your store. Have a Colonial
I glass sale. Read Franklin Glass Co.’s ad.
on page 1676.

\ ONEY loaned to jewelers. Write for informa
4 tion. The Collateral Loan and Banking Co,,
143 Euclid Avenue, Cleveland, Ohio

MAKE a specialty of good straight legitimate
watchwork. L. E. Winslow, 407 Masonic
Temple, Chicago.
(Er the people in your store. Have a Colonial
glass sale. Read Franklin Glass Co.’s ad.
on page 1676
eee balance staffs on the market. Made by
an Elgin staff-maker. From $1.15 to $2.70,
net. Cash with order. Money refunded if not
satisfactory. Best balance jewels, $1.55. Tarbox
& Gordon, Omaha, Nebr.

ey eee of second-hand Clement combined
lathe attachments offered for sale. They are
old models; they sell them to get our latest.
See our ad. in this number. W. D. Clement,
Waltham, Mass.
“ET the people in your store. Havea Colonial

glass sale. Read Franklin Glass Co.’s ad.
on page 1676.

LIFE scholarship in our college, including
4 diploma and highest degree, for only $7.50.
See our advertisement, page 1744p, and write for
new prospectus. South Bend College of Optics.
(FET the people in your store. slave a Colonial
J glass sale. Read Franklin Glass Co.’s ad.
on, page 1676.

BUSINESS NOTICES

UNDER THIS HEADING THREE CENTS PER WORD

jou to do particular jewelry and watch
1 case repairing. also special order work quick-
lv. 3enj. Gebhard, 735 Sansom, Philadel] phia.

YUBBER stamps, 10c. perline. J.J. McClelland,
mfgr., 837 Market Strect, Wheeling, W. Va.

BUSINESS NOTICES

ND all your watch work directly to me and
get it back when you want it and right. L.
E. Winslow, 407 Masonic Temple, Chicago.

CY WEINTRAUB, 1298. Seventh, Philadelphia,
Ys diamond setting for the trade. First-class
work, Prompt attention. Importer and dealer
in rare gems and semi-precious stones.

jt makes no difference if you do not. sell glass
or china. If you want a leader to get the
people in your store, read the Franklin Glass
Co.’s ad. on page 1676,

{LGLIN Horological School, the oldest and most
4 practical school for watchmakers. Send for
eatalogue to Elgin Horological School, Elgin, U1.

"OU are looking for a good reliable firm to do

your watch work. Here is the place. W, Kk.

Sandberg, watchmaker to the trade, 802 Colum-
bus Memorial Building, Chicago.

IGHEST prices paid for diamonds, old gold,

broken jewelry, ete. New and second-hand
watches bought and sold. Benj. Gebhard, 735
Sansom, Philadelphia.

jt makes no difference if you do not sell glass
or china. If you want a leader to get the
people in your store, read the Franklin Glass
Co,’s ad. on page 1676.

We make a specialty of changing old antique

watch cases to stem-wind, Something that
has been refused by others. Have had 40 years’
exp. and can guarantee satisfaction, N. J.
Felix, 18 John Street, New York,

[2 makes no difference if you do not sell glass
or china. If you want a leader to get the
people in your store, read the Franklin Glass
Co,’s ad. on page 1676.

TOTICE.—I have moved from 727 Sansom Street

‘Y to 807 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, where I
will continue to buy all kinds of old gold and
silver; also refine all kinds of jewelers’ waste
containing gold or silver. Send by mail or
express and receive prompt attention. J. L.
Clark. Established 1870,

WANTED, every one desirous of improving

themselves in watch work, jewelryework
and engraving, to address Bradley PG tens
Institute, Peoria, Tll., for one of their labest
catalogs. A postal card will get it. See ad, on
page 1615. :

_—
jt makes no difference if you do not se Jass
or china. If you want a leader to get the

people in your store, read the Irranklin (; lass
Co.’s ad. on page 1676.

9Fe. FOR ingredients to make 2 quarts vowel
40 wash equal to any on the market. Contai

Will not injure the fin
L. D. Lore

no acid or poison.
articles. Guaranteed satisfactory.
Kirkwood, Il.

[> makes no difference if you do not sell glass»

or china. If you want a leader to get the
people in your store, read the Franklin
Co,’s ad. on page 1676,

THE Omaha Watch Repairing, Engraving and

Optical Institute is noted for its expert in-
structors, who devote their entire fue, ability
and energy to the perfecting of their respective
departments. They secure a grade of,practical
results that for thoroughness and exeéllency is
not generally approached by other schools of this
character. Our graduates excel in workman-
ship and give perfect satisfaction wherever em-

ployed. Thsre is no better school to be found
anywhere, This is a model, up-to-date institu-
tion. Write for prospectus. Dr. Tarbox &

Gordon.

Too Late for Classification
ee ee ek eee

WANTED—At once, exp. watchmaker
F. Midelburg,

ELP
and engraver, salary $25 week.
Charleston, W. Va.

| ELP WANTED—Good watchmaker, engraver.
Permanent position. Baltimore. ‘ V 317,
care Keystone.

| EKLP WANTED—Salesman wanted with well-

established, high-class trade, to handle artis-
tic sterling silver jewelry and novelties. Ad.
‘I’ 318,” care Keystone.

’

ELE WANTED—At once, first-class watch-

maker, engraver, salesman, for responsible
position. Good salary and permanent position
for Al, all-around hustler. Send refs. and sam-
ples engraving, state salary first letter. L. W.

Lewis, Columbus, Ohio.
| ELP WANTED—Experienced salesman of
good address, with entree to best retail trade.

tight man may acquire interest in business of

old-established Newark firm. Address, P. 0.

Box 500, Newark, N. J.

WANTED Second-hand Francis engraving
machine and type and attachments, firs!-

class condition. No, 1, 2,3. “T 319,” care

Keystone,
PEARLS iv
FOR CASH
If acustomer should bring you any Diamond
Jewelry or any Pearls to sell, and you do not
care to buy them yourself, send them to
CHAS. S. CROSSMAN & CO.
&o Maiden Lane New York
where you can have an immediate Cash Offer
Established 1880

TO JEWELERS, PIANO AND
MUSIC DEALERS

I will sell you stenciled pianos at very at-
tractive prices, and after 4 months will carry
50% of your account. Pianos guaranteed by the
maker and marked with copyrighted names,
This proposition is good in any State, and I can
interest you.

A. L. CREED, 256 Main St., Hartford, Conn.

ELGIN HOROLOGICAL
SCHOOL

ELGIN, ILLINOIS

Individual instructions in

Watch Repairing, Engrav=
ing and Optics

Only a limited number of students
taken at a time

SEND FOR CATALOG

High-Class

Repairing
for the Trade
Our work is the kind you call your own
L.E.WINSLOW
407 Masonic Temple CHICAGO, ILL.

Learn Telegraphy & R. R, Accounting

$50 to $100 per month sal: wy assured our
gr: aduates under bond. You don’t pay us until
you havea position. Largestsystem of telegraph
schools in America. E udorsed by all railway
officials. Operators always in demand, ladies
also admitted. Write for Catalogue.

MORSE SCHOOL OF TELEGRAPHY

Cincinnati, O. Bullalo. N.Y. Atlanta, Ga,
La Crosse. Wis. Texarkana, Tex, San Francisco, Cal,

— == = a

The Engraving School That Graduates
Experts.’’ A fascinating, high-salaried and
easily learned trade, taught thoroughly and
practically by correspondence. Your instrue-
tor is the foremost authority and master
workman in the world. We will teach the

* better engraving by correspond-

‘than he can gain in years of rigid ap-

f prenticeship. We will improve the skill of

any en fer one hundred per cent. and

make him master of the trade. The demand

for competent engravers far exceeds the sup-

ply. Sen@for handsome illustrated prospec-
tus. AGE-DAVIS COMPANY

Suite , 90 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO

uoT}ORISI}eS

posjuvieny

Veal

Yea!

Yours for a successful

Nias |

AUCTION SALE

just tap the wire to

A. FE. SPRAGUE
Jewelry and Art AUCTIONEER
1080 N. High Street, Columbus, Ohio

When writing to advertisers, kindly
mention The Keystone

LON BARNHART, Springfield, Ohio

Manufacturer of Fine
Watch & Spectacle
Electrie Illuminated and

Non-illuminated. )yrable, Elegant and Attractive
SEST SIGNS ON EARTH
Send for Catalogue

Repairing
For the Trade

of Complicated and Ordinary
Watches, Whee! and Pinion Cut-
ting, Demagnetizing, etc., care-
fully and promptly done by an
expert. A, JETTE

Lancaster, Pa.

Jewelry, Watch and Watch Case
Repairing for the Trade

Send for our Price-List
Our Motto: Quick Service
Work returned same day as received

Memphis Jewelry Mfg. Co.
81 W. Court St. Memphis, Tenn.

The Most Important Feature
in a school’s equipment is the instructors ;
no one can get around that. We have the

men. Send for circulars.

Canadian Horological Institute
115 East King Street
Toronto, Ont.

H.R. PLAYTNER
DIRECTOR

index to Advertisers

Page

Abel Bros. & Co aes as OW ade ae we OS
Aikin.. Gambert & 0.4; « « Sas = s eee
Albert Brothers —. sig eae . . . 1606
Allen & Co., Benj. . . _ 1648, 1728 p
Aller-Newman-W ilmes Jewelry Go: . 2”. 144%
Allsopp Bros. SN Ansa) Sechas REMSS
American Cuckoo Clock Cc 0. . ©. L688
American Electrical Novelty & Mfg. Co. . 1622
American Oil. & Supply Co. ....... .16156
American Optical College . Ts ht og a liDe
American Silver Company, The. . .. . 1684
American Waitham Watch Co. .... . . 1682
Apollo Silver Co. .. . SS concer ate 1644
Ascheim, Jules ; es « SNE
Auburn School of E ngrav ‘ing, The s -ALZ88
Averbeck, M. J. a ce ath IE Gh 8 _ 1602, 1617
Bach & Co., L. . ee ee ee . .1744e
Baker & Co., Ine... . “peste. ee aks: CRLOLO
saltimore Optic al C omp: ny a7 to: Stge “on BY 10, te ROO
Barres GOs Wee Be Ge TOD aca o ce eel SO
Barnhart, ae Se 8S cee RE KETO. Gre le ve Ya cao
Barrett Coz :Geo.-B. . i aa © coe 2 es 1666
Barron, Geo. A. Sak ss Traeiaes, Gele Moura . 1670
Bassett Jewelry Co., The. ....... «1716
Bastian: Bros). & = st Secrest ozo
Bates & Bacon : Efe: iet = 200
Bauman Co., Sydney L. & Morris. . . . . 1710
Bausch & Lomb Optical’Go.., . . % 1 ws, leas
Bay State Optical Company ... ... .1770
Bechteli:& ‘Gon: JOS: Biss te & a we wo aw seee 2 2009
Belaistcs Cobn 5 26 8 ae Me ies © 2 LENS
Benedirer Mio) Co. ms.) | ee 6 ees 588
Bergen’ Co.,20he. Js Die ss 2 a & = 2 4087
Bergh sWOwards Wises wen 6 aie se res ee 2 AiO
Best Light. Go;, EBhe: cu... s «.. 2718
Bigney & Co.,S. O. . Vic ete ese « & MEZBD
Boston Optical Company ........ .1774
Bowman's Sons, Ezra lk. ...... .. . 1605
Bowman Technical School, The Ezra F. . . 1610
Boyce, John W. aA WP pumiaa. Forts BOLO
Bradley Polytechnic Institute .... . . 1618
PRAMS OG Oss Ws, © + ~ \anietyeiee wh TE
Brexmar:Co-~ The ©:G, «6.3 «2% . 1597
Briggs & Dodd — jo Kt covet ee ewe, Se tan wel
Brilliant Gas Lamp Co. . 7...) . . . 1786
Brown & Dean Company, The < = 6 weeuouo
gryant & Co., M. B. . ce Cae
Buffalo Dental Manufacturi ing Co. eee Ae
BulovarCo:Js os] = . : wl Sat te ea
Canadian Horological tnaltunte bse he on 1791
Carman Art Co.. . ‘ 1788
Chicago Commerci: ] Association . . 1612, 1613
C.-L. Ophthalmometer: ..2 2.2 5° GI776
Clark &- OO3¢ TNC. 2 Bt iy. We le Se OS
Clark & Son, A. N. i: altel See RO SLO US
Clauer Company, Calvin ....... . -1616
Glement, W.2D: « = « ; of Menta tat Ses LOUD
Codding & Heilborn C Gach eee aos
Cohen & Co., Ls. «. ¥ 4D Re eae. De
Cooper Diamiond’Co, .. «5 <4 4, One
Corning Cut Glass Co., The. ...... . . .162
Cowan, Joseph Bh Kegsge ie, “acre came . 4 LGLO
Grate oW. ls. 5%. oa w 1s Gone re ee OL)
Creed, A. LL. aso sate we ee ED
Crescent Watch Case Co., THO woes wa odeeko
Crohn, M. . oe: Ke abe 6 eS
Cross & Begue lin + aie: ees SOUL
Grossinbatrd& ©6., Chas. Si <..< «0 = a6 eaewebioe
Crouch & Fitzgerald i st 0) tee oh eee
Gullivtan Ge 0. oyna ie: 3 Ne cw tee ee
Gushnran We By. «+ « « sable Sa GeWALyOS
Daniiegebiock: ... . « « aus & 5 aie ee ehOUl
D’Arcy Art Studio... asst hey OF ee dee L aA
Dederick’s Sons, James Te os a Bee end
Dee & Company, ThomasJ.... . . .. . 1700
Detroit Show Gase Go. ......... -173
Detroit Watch TO0UCO:: «cic & 6 8 ws oe 174A,

Eaton & Glover Company .
Egginton Co., The O. F.
Hisenstadt Mfg. Co.

Electro Silicon Co

Elgin Horological School
Elgin National Watch Co.
Eliassof Bros. & Co.

Kmblem Jewelry | Manufacturing C 0.,

Enirie, HeUry. ;
Engel & Co., J

&. P. H. Patent Neck Chain Snap,

Eye-Fix Remedy Co., The
E-Z-Floe Chemieal C 0.
Fargo Company, The E, A,
Feeley Company, The W. J.
Felix, N. J.

F ishel, Ne ssler & Co.

Foster om Bro. Co., OA ee Ww.

Fox Co., The Gusts ie.

lox Optical Manufacturing Co.

Frackman, S.

Franklin Glass Co. .
Freund & Bro., Henry
Freund & Sons, Wm.
Friedlander, R., L. & M.
Rrinkwk: PR: . De as
Fry Glass C ompany, H.C. .
Fuller & Son Co. , Geo. H,
Gartner, Geo. .

Gebhardt Bros. ee
Geneva Optical Co., Chicago

Geneva Optical Co., Geneva, N.

Ginnel & Company, Henry
Geer fohrer & Co.

Globe Optical SoU Dy
Goldsmith Bros. =e
Goldstein Engraving Co. , The
Gorham Mfg. C O.

Gotthold, Louis

Gottlieb, A. L. ir abeacnes
Grand R apids Show Case Co.
Green & Co., W.

. Inside back cover

. 1640
OS
. 17444

.1791

- Inside fr ont cover

. 1724

The . 1670

IFRT

. 1/3/

, 1602

The . 1787

1748

; 1605
; 17 28h
. 1595

. 1602

. 1686
TLS

. 1595

. 1758

. 1646

: 1676
. 1640 e
. 1724

. . 1668
. . 1744)
. 1640e
. 1714
1788

. 1742

. 1746

. 1760
1644

» HOT

. 1766

. 1589

ee oa

. 1628
LtS7

. 1783

- 1678
1593, 1787

Green’s E lectric Automatic Dem agnetizer, 1619

Gregory, A. E.

Haman, "Albert L.
Hammel, Riglander & Co,
Handel ( ompany, The
Harding: R. Me. 3 « ;
Hardinge Bros.
Hardy, Eben .
Hardy & Co.,F. A.
Haskell, Fred. A.. .
Hawkes & Co., T. G.
Heintz Bros. ; ;
Hennecke Company, C.
Hering & Co.

Hinsbe rger Cut Glass C 0., Louis

Hoare & Co., J.

Hoffman Novelty Co., The
Hold-On Cluteh Co... :
Holland Pen Co., The John .
Homan Mfg. C ompany, The
Hooper, H. ey er -*
Hornbac k & Co.. OSes
Howard Cloek C OiriPice :
Howard Watch C ompany, E.
Hub Optical Case Co.
Hull Brothers Umbrella Co.
Hurlburt & Sons, H. O. .
Ingersoll & Bro., Robt. H.
International Silver Co.
JACODSON! OOw2b ster s > & » 0
JANES MIS OOo de Ebeg « ax ls
Jessen & Rosberg .

Jette, A.

Jewelers’ School ‘of i ng raving
Johnston Optical Co. eats
Jorgeson & Company, F. C.

Jnergens & Andersen Company .

Katz & Co., Philip
Kaufman & Co., Louis
Keller & Co., L. H.
Kelly & Steinman .
Kendrick & Davis
Ketcham & McDougall
Keystone, The

Key stone Watch C ase C 0. . The :

King & Hisele .

King Optical Co., Julius:
Kirchner & Renich
Kirstein Sons Co., EF.
Kleeman & Co., Wm. hae
Klein School of Optics, The .
Klein & Bro., Es C. ;
Knights & © O. TI. .
Knobloe Hoi enan Mfe. C O.
Kohner, Max .

Korones Bros.

Krementz & Co.

Krower, Leonard .

Kry ptok Inv Bue Bifocals
Kuehl & Co., Geo.
Kunstadter B rothers
Laforest, A. - aii
Langton, OA Ty :
Landis Se ee of E ngraving
Larter & Sons... .
Lelong & Brother, L.

Levy, Chas. M. ;

Levy & Co., L. W.
Lindenbe rg, Strauss & Co,
Lindner & Co.

Lindsey, H. B.

Liquid Amber

Littlefield Silver Co., ie
Lowell, John S.

Manning, Bowman & Co.
Manor & MeConnell

Marsh ee ne Oi, eRe
Martin,

Mason, How ard & Co.

. . 1752, 1754, 1762, 1764, 1776

1784

» 17287
1591
1744 e

. 1744 m
1600
1670

1786

. 1639
Salat

, 17447.
. . 1724
. 1640 d
. 1638

5 ae!

. 1646
1724
G59
. 1744/7
1607

. 1670

. 1664

mei yy)

7 E26

. 1686
1702

. 16404
Nal igtest
1787

. 1605

yn bs)

. 1619

my UrarAl)
SANE Yi

. 1694

. 1787

2 LITZ

. 1586

. 1642
1714

ye d605
17°0, 1782

, 1662, 1663

» IAG,

. 1756

. 17287
Senrou

. 1596

. 1670

. 1787

, E282
. 16038

. 1608

. 1600
PeELb1.G
1698, 1734
. 1768

. 1609

4 i eyirn!

. 1780

. 1670

. 17287
. « 1646
. 1608
ore
. 17447
. 1672

. L788

. 1785

>» ~ kol4
1744 d

. 1670

. 1658

oe teal
17287

. 1785

"17447

MatchiessC igarL ighterManufacturingCo. . 1614

Matsumoto, Ikko

Mayer, B.. . j

Maver "& Co., Geo. as
McIntire, Magee & Brow i,
Meiskey Company, H. :
Memphis Jewelry Mfe. “Co.
Meriden Britannia Co. . .
Metal Specialties Mfg. Co. .
Meyer Jewelry Company
Meyrowitz Manufacturing Co.
Michigan Optical Co. ;
Middletown Silver Co., The .
Mitchell & Tillotson ie teers
Monroe Co., The C, F.. . . .

. 1602

, 1782

5 1774
. 1764, 1766
1617
1791

. . 1624

. 17447

. 1698

Wa fy is

. 1780

» ATs

. 17441

. 16400

Lees:

Moore &50nS8:..n0. th, =. 2a Sees 1774
Morse School of Telegr ‘aphy . ee Sie Es |
Murine Eye Remedy Co. ... +... .. . 1772
National Cash Register Co ee vik.
National College of Optics, The. . . . . .1779
National Phonograph Co, ....... . 1608
Netschert: Carli > 2a <.g0uh oe eo op ee eee
Netschert: Cox, rank . . «9.4.4.4 4 . -623
Newark Brush Company ..... .. .1786
Newark Cut Glass Vo. .. gt sw gh LOAD
New-England Watch Co, ....... . . 1687
New Haven Clock Co... Ss 8 oe al or OZ
New York Standard Watch Co... . . . . 1682
Nicholson Hile-Co; 9. 6) ale Se oy eo 1587
Nivois, Victor ae ee _ 1744 n
NODIG (i GOs HERS es Be i So ce we OUD
Noel & Company, Rudolph ...... . .1786
Non-Retailing Company, The. . .. . . . 1587
Norris, Alister & Co. | : 1728 n, 1740
Northern Illinois € ollege of Ophths mology
SNC OLOIOLY ee sce me ccisi ae in 2 AOU
Noterman & Co., Jos. . . ett Beco He om ESO
Ohio Flint Glass € ompany ; of Se Oe
Oliver Manufacturing Co., The W.W. 1611, 1696
Omega Movements ..... 1615
Oneida Community, Ltd. "1640 /, 1640 9
Oskamp, Nolting & Co ee, COR ee eC
Ostby. 6 Barton? Cos 4.2 <2. 4 < yee itd)
Owens, J. B. Soe ae saci ee te ee
Page-Davis G ompany = Ae Ge egete Ams. co GEOL
Pairpoint Corporation, The ..... 1640 b
Paroutaud Bs Watson .... « < aie « 3 ade
a Mfg. Rae A Ciniepest ees), CLD,
Peerless Son ulty Mfg. GO, eee Sra so ee
Peters & Co., H. B. See tes SALDOO.
Philadel phi: L ( ‘ollege of Horology . . 1702, 1788
Philadelphia Optical Gollege: vss. « « = 2 +760
Phillips & Co. Eig 50 oO ee me Ee OIE
Potter, Wm. K else eats, EO
Qui iker C ity Cut G lass Co... . . . . 1640h
Queen City Material Company ..... . 1619
Queen City Ring Mfg. Co., The .. .. 1708
Queen City Silver Co. . .. wo « x « w/l6406
Racine Jewelry Mfg. Co. ...... #«» 1786
RAVEN OUTIORG es fa 5 Rw ue Se Mt dee ral ERO
Reed & Barton ... Stan sak GEESE see LOUIE

Rees Engraving School pa) Coors Soi Leek Peep OD
ReronNemMishe GOs lo) bo klk ee es . . 1603

Reinhard & Patterson ........ . .1786
Reis & Bro., G. ee ee Re foo aahOee!
Revell & Co., Alexander H. neds ce es LD
Rhode Island BS OC One aes ic re So GOS
Richard & Co., © B. . oa oe Fa ee Cole e
RevettLauie NG. « sift ee 8 > wn aele + OLO
Robert, Edmond FE. beh al aon SEL TO
Roc antes School of Optome try cok wake op Kee

Rockford Silver Plate Co...... em ytkbOl

Rogers & Brother § 1681
Roge rs Company, Simeon L.and GeorgeH. . 1660
Rothschild Brothers C ompany - & «d20
Rowley Ophthalmological College. . . 1764
Roy Watch Case Company ...... 1714
Sadler Company, The F.H. ...... .1728d
Sandbers, Willheélm EK. 5s . s «su. «+ ~ 1788
Scherer, August B. 2... s wie te = O70
SCHAMA cis Ween ual =<) wekebass © mw oo te Ae?
Se -hnetzer, Jt Son, | A yee eee FAL
Schwab & Bro., A. G. . . Sic igh” St fey ee wakee
Seofield & DeWyngaert fe ke so ae cm 1670
seneca Falls Mig. 'Go., "The «2. 4. < = « 1602
Sercomb Company y oe lo 2 ace ELS
Sessions Clock Co., The. . ; s ie “68S
Sickles & Sons, M.. . ; wg oes oe 2 LOZO IGA
Siegel, Rothschild & Co. ies tbo hes Oe
Siegfried, George . ee ter eee ote
Simmons Company, R. I. ...... . . 1680
SWRORA VeorOwenGOl . ky S aie oe oe oF i ROU
Smith, Harry Ph Sate Noes Zap ae & 1670
Smith & Co., Ine., Geo. W. o> 3s LB
South Bend College of Opties, The . . . 1744p
Southwestern Optical College . ... . . . 1783
Spencer Optical Company . 4 Bo day gen UY
Sprague, A. I. He eeracks a tw fo =P eee
Stahl, Chas. Mien OES, 08: ee o Gel be ee eo et gS
Stein & Ellbogen Company ...... . . 1650
méciners TOUTS. 2. it a Sc . 17447
Stern Bros. (Oe On, ar Soe uyten ts xe. b. Ble ee EOE
Stern, M.._ . dn “rel ya) Yad om, enn ee RTA
Sterna ioe Won TOMI. con vex von shal ees eee eee OG
Sternau & Co.,8. .. ‘ Ses ee See os AO
Stevens: Company eines « 2s a ae SMS
Stilwell, Wi. Wi. ... 4 2 at eae OS
St. Louis Watchm: king SGHGOl! «casas . 1728
Stone’s School of Watehmaking Was 1788
Stontrer: Co. Ths Jeb s. cei. & 1640 d
Strauss & Co. AL EMIA ZS Sat eh GW te at) epee Se OLD
Sturdy’s Sons, OES roe Ise aS acer. aod
Sussfeld, L orsch & Co, . 1599, 1611
Swartchild & GOMPAUN® 58 See wi aes ao eLOOS
Swigart, B.& J... eee HER Kee A at aL OO
Tidd & Co. , Sh tries Uainet ue ef ves e - AOUD
Tilton Optical RO ad. cue ev ARTO
TrentomiWaten-Gov. . 2... = ee
Trounid®e Cor Ghas: Tiss 2 4 6% « os « 1647
Tuckids Sons; Rapnael. : . 4.5 » =a a + » dtd
PUTTER OUD Wits ose: <a este. cas che, os ee ee ALO
EVIGniamteriicn coal es of a a Als ww LR
TESORO Ges ok md os pal TOT
Unger Bros,. . . Sears br ee a a 3) ee Cat LOD
Union Show Case Co... .........3716
U. S. Electro-Chemical Co. ....... . 1594
SPECI DCS? 15 senso “we sk GY wc BO
Wadsworth, G. F. . ye lk gl ae BUT OS
Wagner Manufacturing Gon. 2) S. ... 1650
Waltham Clock Co. . ‘ gy AZO
Warner & Swasey Company, “The > « «L752
Webster, Arthur RR... SVeaSeken 2 BOI
Webster-Whitcomb Lathes ..... . . 1599
Weiss Jewelry Mit, Co, . . a = ure % o EB2
Wells, Chester .. 1788
Wendell & Co... 1592, 1692, "1722, 1744, 1744h
Western Clock Mfg. Co., The .. . aloo
Wheeler & Co., Hayden Wee Picts ~ Skb4D
WHILST GOR ek 6 Su See nial ac v Meade
Wightman & Hough C 0. ios = «- weloee
Winslow, L. E. ee ee |
Winter Lumber Company, OMeaeee x. « 1809
Witsenhausen, L. . Patterson MA
Wolicott Mfg. Co., The .. Seek & os dteon
Wollstein, L. & M. ‘fe 1614

Wood & Sons, J. R. . . Outside back cover
Woodstock-Hoefer Watch and Jewelry

Company Pe ae ee HN pv tat a. LOTO
Young & Co., Otto eto oo & teal Goer
Young & Co., Oe <3 syle os) Sot oy ke LOY

Zimmern & Co., Ine., Henry iat) wo wer GS

The Man Behind the Gun
The Men Behind the Flag

When a firm holds first place for a period of more than
twenty years, during which time hundreds of jewelry auctioneers
have come and gone, it proves not only their commercial standing
but their qualification as salesmen. The best reply that we can
make to some adverse criticism that recently appeared in a trade
journal relative to auctions, is our list of firms whom we have
made sales for in years past who to-day are leaders in their
various cities. Among the many are the Mermod- Jaceard Jewelry

Geo. W. Winder, Troy, N. Y.
Chas. W. Crankshaw, Atlanta, Ga.
Geo. W. Biggs & Co., Pittsburg, Pa.
A. M. Hill, New Orleans, La., 2 saies.
Pairpoint Mfg. Co., Chicago.
A. Stineau, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Tos. W. Field, Galveston, Texas, 2 sales.
oth Importing Co., Denver, Colo.
Albert Feldenheimer, Portland, Ore.
C. E. Buhre, Topeka, Kans.
H. J. Young, Joliet and Kankakee, IIl., 2 sales.
Sumner Bros. & Co., Cleveland Ohio, 4 sales.
Geo. W. Myers, Meride on, Miss.
Geo. W. Kennedy, Des Moines, Iowa,
W. F. Main Co., Iowa City, Iowa.
S. H. Ives, Detroit, Mich.
R. E. Samson, Marion, Iowa.
Oscar Heinze, Quincy, Il.
Lange Bros., Dubuque, Iowa.
Geo. Cl: irk, Lorain, Ohio.
F. B. Lewis & Co., Cleveland, Ohio.
P. E. Kern, El Paso, Texas.
ae Stevens & Bro. , Atlanta, Ga.
x. A. Schlechter, Reading, Pa.
Slides & Co., Owensboro, Ky.
C.D. Gardner, Manistee; Mich.
John B. Miller, Portland, Ore.
A. Schwaner, Beaumont, Texas.
J. M. Washburn, Celina, Ohio.
Cutting & Wilson, Winona, Minn.
W. H. Kelly, Carrollton, Mo.
W. E. Smith, 3ellefontaine, Ohio.
\ be Kaminiski, St. Louis and Galveston.
T. G. Burkhardt, Jefferson City, Mo.
Fussy & Blair, Missoula, Mont.
Geo. W. Meyers, Chattanooga, Tenn.
M. Zimmerman, Jeffersonville, Ind.
C. W. Ernsting, Gallipolis, Ohio.
W. A. Kirkham, Leavenworth, Kans.
Ash & Dembunger, Tacoma, Wash.
Barnett & Nonnenmacher, Columbus, Ohio.
A. M. Goldman, Seattle, Wash.

Cleveland, Ohio ;

makes the business.

REFERENCES

Lyon & Kylling, Danville, Ill.
M. Waunch, San F rancisco, Cal.
Woodward, Smith & Rand ill, Colorado Springs,
Colo.

Wilbur, Lanphear & Co.,Galesburg, Ill.
Harry Harrison, Sault Ste Marie, Mich.
Sands & Fellows, Cedar Rapids, Iowa.
Leonard Krower, New Orleans, La.
W. K. Lippit, Norwich, N. Y.
W. J. Kelly, Oshkosh, Wis.
Ritter & Ryan, Muncie, Ind.
Amos Plank, Pueblo, Colo,
M. Greer, Iowa City, Iowa.
J. Albert Schirmer, Saginaw, Mich.
C. Ettinger, Cleveland, Ohio.
Rushmer Jewelry Co., Pueblo, Colo.
Freeman Jewelry Co., Atlanta, Ga., 2 sales.
Morris Benjamin, Denver, Colo.
Wm. Beck, Sioux City, lowa.
Strow Bros., Fort Dodge, Iowa.
Sipe & Sigler, Cleveland, Ohio, 5 sales.
King, Moss & Co., San F rancisco, Cal.
H. Simon, St. Paul, Minn.
Rodgers & Pottinger, Louisville, Ky.
Hanna & Eroe, New Castle, Pa.
D. H. McBride & Co. ; Akron, Ohio, 3 sales.
H. Koester & Co., Detroit, Mich., 2 sales.
H. Kline, Seattle, Wash.

L. Sievert, Springfield, Mo.
A. W. Ford, Freeport, IIl.
S. H. Dodge & Son, Ypsilanti, Mich.
Ca saldwin, St. Joseph, Mo.
David Goldberg, Heiena, Mont.
Dolle Bros., Chicago.
Bonner Bros., Fort Worth, Texas.
Hart & Sturgis, Houston, "Texas.
Carlton Jew elry Co.,. Ke nosha and Racine, Wis.
Stewart & Prescott, Dallas, Texas.
Parmlee Bros. & Co., Los Angeles,Cal.

Clemens Hellebush, Cincinnati, Ohio.
P. H. Lachicotte & Co., Columbia, S. C.
Allen Bros., Savannah, Ga.

Co.25t Lous, More tchas. © rankshaw, Atlanta, Ga.; Wm. Beck,
Sioux City, Iowa; A, M.
. A. Schlechter, Reading, Pa.; The Parimlee
Bros. Co., Los Angeles, Cal.

It is not the business that makes the man, but the man that
Our methods are to-day as they always
have been—to build up a firm’s trade and obtain money at the
same time by closing out undesirable merchandise on a commis-
sion basis. That we have been successful our credentials speak
for themselves. The list below cannot be equaled by all others
now engaged in the business combined.

Hill, New Orleans ; Sigler Bros. Co.,

er
af

Duhme Bros., Cincinnati, Ohio f

Geo. Chantler, Manistique, Mich. SS

> H. Schiller, Utica, N. Y.

W. H. McKnight, Sons & Co., Louisville,Ky., ’
dealers in art furniture, rugs, carpets, etc.

L. J. Marks, Kansas City

Mermod-Jaccard Jewelry Co., St. Louis, Mo.

Robbins & Co., Fostoria, Ohio.

Geo. Nichols, St. Louis, Mich.

The J. Bolle ind Jewelry Co., St. Louis, Mo. |

Threadwell, Fort Worth, Texas. fs

W. C. Ward, Winchester, Ky.

Waterhouse, Hamilton, Ohio.

Larue, Oskaloosa, Iowa.

Bailey & Co., Ottumwa, Iowa.

Becker & Lathrop, Syracuse, N.Y;
W. H. Muller, Denison, Texas.
Pa,
if

Pittsburg Jewelry Co., Pittsburg,

J. W. Howard, H: stings, Nebr.

sarnett Jewelry Co., St. Louis, Mo.

L. R. Shumway, Roc wee Il.

P. M. Younglove, Alpena, ‘Mich.

Alfred Bourgeois, Jackson, Miss. if

E, L. McDowell, Arkansas City, Kans, «~

C. D. Couse, Waverly, Iowa.

S. Smith & Co., Virginia City, Nebr.

Chas. Taylor, Steubenville, Ohio.

The Hight & Fairfield Co., Butte, Mont.

C. D. White & Co., Minneapolis, Minn.

L. G. Call, Waynesburgh, Pa.

The Max Rollins stock, Youngstown, Ohio.

P. L. Lowenthal, Bradford, Pa. om
J. S. Baird, Watertown, N. Y.

A. M. Marwede, Alpena, Mich.

Mrs. Sarah DickinsonWood, NiagaraFalls,N.Y.

R. D. Worrell, Mexico, Mo.
Louis Reinheimer, Joplin, Mo.

Henry C. Briggs Estate Howell, Micn.

R. Van Kuesin & Co. ’ Savannah, Ga.

A. J. Renkl, Augusta, Ga.

The Sigler Bros., Cleveland, Ohio.
Margileth & McFarland, Springfield, Ohio. f

Pi |

More than 100 others, and the jobbers from Maine to California.

The trade will not fail to perceive the great benefit of obtaining the services of two lifelong experience d men at the cost of one. The
dudience never gets tired, each has his own methods, there is a change of voice and manner, also in case of sickness it is an invincible argument.
We work in pertect harmony, and it makes a degree of success in sales never before known.

combination of talent now available. The work speaks for itsself.

the trade and its representatives throughout the country.

BRIGGS & DODD. *

We have proved conclusively it is the greatest
Every reference given above represents a successful sale made. We refer to

5 and 47 Plymouth Place -

CHICAGO, ILL.

The
Standard of
the World

‘he
New Century
Engraving
Machine

MR. JEWELER

Each year you spend a large amount of money for engraving that could
and ought to be done in your store.

The annoyance and delay caused by sending goods away to be en-
oraved, and the expense incident thereto, could be avoided by using the
New Century Engraving Machine. You have been neglecting your best
interests up to this time by not doing so.

You Can Do Satisfactory Work After Very Little Practice

Perhaps you are an engraver and think that therefore you do not need
a machine. Just consider for a moment how rushed you are at times, trying
to do your engraving, watch work, selling of goods and the thousand and

~ oD?)

one other things that press upon you; what a big relief it would be if you
could have one of your assistants do the engraving, and thus save your
time, which is more valuable in other directions. Hundreds of jewelers who
are using our machine have found it so; why not you?

This machine is adapted for Plain and Fancy Engraving, cuts Old
Englisb, Gothic, Script and Fancy Letters, Landscapes, Monograms and
Ornamental Designs on flat or irregular surfaces, rings, spoons, hollowware,
etc., etc., and shades up the letters equal to the finest hand work.

They are in successful operation by jewelers everywhere, in many
cases being operated by boys and girls.

YOU CAN’T AFFORD TO BE WITHOUT IT

If you are not prepared to engrave, people will patronize ‘‘the other
fellow ’’ who is. It is therefore to your advantage to look into the merits of
our machine AT ONCE.

Remember that this is October and the holidays are but a few
weeks off.

Write for our complete catalogue and we will send you samples of the
machine’s work at the same time. DO IT NOW.

The Eaton & Glover Co.

Sayre, Pa.

And you know your money

is perfectly sate.

Se cil ladle cio S a
a

money for our Diamonds, you NTE
vet full return for it. No

misrepresentation here. Every- Hal |

\
7

thing we sell is uncondition- |

ally guaranteed exactly as

represented.

‘Phere 35° but* one
modest profit between ~
the price you pay for ~
the diamond and the -
actual cost of produc-

ing it.

2 Maiden Lane, N

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Full text of "The Keystone, vol. 26, no. 10 (October 1905)"

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